White and Rosé Wines for Spring

wines

Jean-Michel Chartron’s Clos des Caillerets may well be the finest 2024 premier cru which I tasted on my entire trip to the region this year. The wine’s bouquet is simply stunning, offering up scents of pear, golden delicious apple, fresh almond, a complex foundation of limestone minerality, crème pâtissière, honeysuckle, lemon zest and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and precise, with a stunning core of fruit, great mineral undertow, a fine spine of acidity and huge backend energy and lift on the seamlessly balanced and complex finish. This is an utterly brilliant wine, but its closing note of blood orange citrus on the backend also underscores how young it still is and that it will deserve some bottle age to open up completely. (Drink between 2030-2065)John Gilman | 96 JGAn exceptional wine – I wrote on the day of tasting that it was ’the archetype of Puligny,’ for its pronounced lime peel and flinty minerality and the impressive extract and depth on the palate balanced by a lively acidity. The grapes are from the hectare that the Chartron family retains here, north of Montrachet, at the same elevation on the slope. The Clos was a former monopole of the Chartron family, and they are still the reference standard for the site.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret 1er Cru has a little more precision and detail compared to the Clos du Cailleret this year. Touches of Conference pear and orange pith and a hint of candle wax on the nose. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, quite dainty and elegant yet there is real cohesion and precision towards the finish. This is very classy.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMMid lemon and lime. Plenty of concentration here and greater expression than the Pucelles. This is really quite fine, with stony particles alongside the white fruit flesh. The nose needs to emerge further but this is capable of developing in to a fine Cailleret. 13 barrels made. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA perfumed, spicy and much more elegant nose freely offers up its array of fruit that derives mostly from the red side of the fruit spectrum. Like the Bourgogne, there is no better than barely average density to the vibrant and stony flavors though I like the length and balance of the lightly austere finale. This too should drink well relatively early on or with 3 to 5 years of keeping.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The May 2017 disgorgement of Fallon’s NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Ozanne is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp yellow orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, toasted nuts, candied peel and honeycomb. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it’s layered and textural, with a bright spine of acidity, a pearly enlivening mousse and a long, intensely sapid finish. Its combination of power and tension makes this the finest wine I’ve tasted from Fallon to date. Of course, finding any of the thousand or so bottles released every year is next to impossible, but readers able to track one or two down are in for a treat.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Ozanne is laced with gorgeous scents of pastry, brioche, citrus, white flowers and yellow orchard fruit. Warm, oxidative tones add breadth and volume, but the wine remains weightless, impeccable and pure. The delineated, crystalline finish leaves a lasting impression. This is a super-impressive showing from a producer who appears to have a very bright future. Ozanne is the old, historical name by which Avize was known prior to 796. Disgorged May 25, 2012.Antonio Galloni | 93 AG