White and Rosé Wines for Spring

wines

Droin owns 10ha of AP Chablis. Much more interest here with a deeper hue in the glass and much more interest on the nose. Some greengage on the palate, together with a hint of pear and white peach. Pretty much a benchmark example of what village Chablis should be. Concentration and a lengthy mineral character to finish.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Chablis Village has a fresh nose with Granny Smith apples and a touch of fresh pear. With good balance and acidity, the palate is quite saline in the mouth with veins of orchard fruit, hints of wild peach and citrus peel, delicate and refined on the finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMThis is aromatically similar to the Petit Chablis though with more citrus elements in evidence. There is again good richness to the succulent and rounded medium-weight flavors that also exude a refreshing salinity on the clean, moderately dry and sneaky long finish that is slightly firmer.Burghound | 88-91 BH

Droin’s Fourchaume is located in the Vaupulent sector, on deep, clay-rich soils. A warmer site, this is a;ready very appealing with nice touches of baked apples and stone-fruit on the palate, with softer acidity and concentration. Although accessible early, this has the concentration to age extremely well and will deliver more saline aspects with more bottle age.Decanter | 92 DECA whiff of mineral reduction is present on the nose of pear and apple compote where there is just enough Chablis typicity to be convincing. The succulent, round and palate coating flavors possess good underlying tension while delivering solid depth and length on the delicious finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2021 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru shows a little more reduction on the nose compared to other cuvées but a pleasant flintiness develops with time. The palate is well balanced with a cohesive entry, fine weight although it doesn’t quite deliver the same precision as the Mont de Milieu at the moment. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Droin’s Montmains site is on a gentle slope with richer, deeper, kimmeridgian marl soils. A colder site, making the wine richer and with great density on the palate. Distinctly more weight than the Vaillons, giving the blend plenty of gravitas. 8-10 months ageing on fine lees adds a creamy character with acidity less pronounced than with the Vaillons. Classy.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a classic Chablis-like bouquet with scents of shucked oyster shell and light fumé notes emerging from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a saline, lemon rind infused entry, moderate weight, perhaps not quite as precise as the Vaillons yet with satisfying persistence. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn even more floral-suffused nose speaks of the pretty essence of pear and apple while offering better overall typicity. The palate impression of the middleweight flavors is also plump, round and fleshy with its reasonably persistent, dry and balanced finale that also could use better depth. This attractive effort should be approachable young yet also reward 4 to 7 years of keeping.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Striking nose of rosehip and lime zest with delicate wild flower and herb aromas. Simultaneously structured and elegant, this dry riesling has remarkable concentration for just 11.5% alcohol. Long, silky, mineral finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2021 Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett trocken is clear, refined and elegant on the beautifully aromatic nose. Vinified in small and up to 60-hectoliter oak casks, this is a subtle, frisky but seriously calcareous Riesling with and intense and well-structured fruit texture and vivacious but ripe acidity that is interwoven with fine phenolic grip and stimulating, sustainable salinity. A gorgeous, still young Riesling bottled with 11.2% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

A blend of 83% Sauvignon Blanc and 17% Semillon, Le Petit Cheval Blanc 2021 skips out of the glass with bright, carefree scents of lemon tart, fresh grapefruit, and lime leaves, leading to hints of coriander seed, white pepper, and sea spray. The medium to full-bodied palate is charged with electric citrus fruit flavors, supported by a racy backbone and silken texture, finishing long and minerally.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe 2021 Château Cheval Blanc Petit Cheval Blanc is gorgeous and comes from a parcel just to the west of the château. A blend of 83% Sauvignon and 17% Sémillon brought up in 50% new wood, it has a killer nose of crushed citrus, orange blossom, and chalky minerality to go with a medium-bodied, vibrant, racy, yet beautifully concentrated and textured style on the palate. I love its overall balance, it has remarkable purity, and I suspect it will provide over a decade of prime drinking.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2021 Le Petit Cheval (Blanc) is fabulous. Silky and intensely aromatic, with tons of Sauvignon Blanc character, the 2021 is all raciness. Pear, slate, mint, crushed rocks, lime and white pepper abound, all framed by brisk acids and gorgeous saline undertones. The 2021 is 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. It aged for 22 months, mostly in foudres and wood uprights. What a wine!Vinous Media | 94 VMVery Sauvignon nose, green peas, straw, lemon zest and elderflower - smells very expressive with cool citrus elements. Crisp and alive, so delicious, crunchy with mouthwatering acidity but then a weight - almost oiliness / fat from the wood and lees adds to to the texture that immediately counters the acidity and gives the mouth filling expression. Bitter grapefruit and lemon zest on the finish. Great energy and complexity. A touch green in some places, you know this isn’t from a warm vintage, a touch of metallic element on the finish, but extremely enjoyable.Decanter | 93 DECFresh, with a dusting of chalk over lemon pith and chamomile notes, backed by grapefruit peel and quinine accents on the lengthy finish. Nicely focused throughout. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2027. 2,466 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSA rich and exotic blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, the 2021 Le Petit Cheval Blanc bursts with aromas of green mango, passion fruit, lime and white flowers, followed by a medium-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that’s satiny, textural and perfumed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

This estate makes a bevy of terrific dry whites in addition to an incredible Sauternes. Starting with the 2021 Lions De Suduiraut Blanc Sec, which is a blend of 52% Semillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc, it offers subtle grapefruit and citrus notes, a kiss of minerality, and a refreshing, vibrant, wonderfully balanced style on the palate. It’s a seriously good bottle of wine to drink in its youth.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2021 Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec is gorgeous. Rich, creamy and expressive, the 2021 is exquisite in its balance of textural richness and freshness. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, lemon oil and chamomile envelop the palate, while bright floral accents perk up the finish. Lions is the new name for the Blanc Sec, which is the same wine as before.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGA tangy white with sliced grapefruit, apple and celery character. Medium body. Fresh finish. White pepper. Dry and chalky.James Suckling | 91 JS

Vibrant and effusive, with energetic lime sherbet, lemon oil, citron and tangerine notes at the core. Shows aromatic details of lemon verbena, lemongrass and lemon basil, with a touch of green tea and white pepper on the fresh, juicy frame. Drink now. 3,981 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSSourced entirely from Charles Ranch and pouring a pale straw color, the 2021 Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview is fresh and lifted with aromas of salted lime, sea spray, agave, and green pineapple. On the palate. this medium-bodied white is spritely with notes of crunchy fresh fruit and has a silky soft, stony texture to round out its linear drive. It’s fresh with vibrant energy and ripe fruit, white peach, and fresh flowers. Drink it over the next 6-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThis bracing, tangy, spicy wine boasts aromas of butter and toast, flavors of poached pears, vanilla and wood char, while a tingly, slightly gripping texture adds a crisp finish. Made from cool, coastal vineyards, it needs time to mellow in mouthfeel and gain more subtlety. Best from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, 80% aged in oak, has a delightful bouquet with orchard fruit, lemon verbena and orange pith scents that burst from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite precise with a welcome touch of bitter lemon that keeps the finish on edge. Not a long-term Bougros perhaps, but finely crafted. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Chardonnay Zotovich Vineyard is a bright and focused from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lime, salt and white pepper are all beautifully delineated in this vibrant, intensely saline Chardonnay. All the elements are so nicely put together. This is another wonderfully translucent wine in the range.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis bottling sports a very pithy, citrus-rind-driven nose, with wet rock and tight apple flesh aromas also apparent. The palate is loaded with a rocky mineralitty, but also packed with citrus spray, Asian pear and mandarin flesh flavors.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WESamsara’s 2017 Zotovich Chardonnay is an excellent rendition of this top quality site. From the first vintage that Samsara produces white wines, it was fermented in all neutral oak and four barrels were produced. The nose is equal parts toasty, honeyed and saline, with aromas of cracker, coconut and sea spray. The palate is chiseled and linear, combining green apple, pineapple rind and salted caramel flavours. Chardonnay from this site seems to consistently marry weight and power with lift and focus, as is the case here.Decanter | 92 DEC

This harmonious white offers bright, buoyant acidity and fresh character to the aromas and flavors of orchard blossoms, nectarine and yellow apple. Yet this also has a light, pleasing plumpness, plus rich hints of mango puree, slivered almond and vanilla-infused pastry cream. Medium-bodied and creamy, with a lingering finish of spices and stone. Drink now through 2031. 800 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBig and waxy chardonnay with ripe orchard and tropical fruit, notes of walnuts, pie crust and cream. Full-bodied, dense and oily with a mellow and ripe character framed by spicy and nutty nuances. Long finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA total seductress, the 2021 Chardonnay Ciampagnis lifts from the glass with an intense mix of lemon custards, sweet mint and confectionary spice. Its creamy textures soothe as a pure mix of ripe citrus-tinged orchard fruits settles upon the palate. Here it’s the acidity that impresses most, finishing remarkably vibrant despite its intense fruit-forward personality while leaving stimulating hints of lime and saline minerals to linger. Vie di Romans captures an amazing amount of complexity within the Ciampagnis yet uses only stainless steel in the aging process.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Vieris opens slowly in the glass, holding back in its youthful state, with hints of lemon oil, rosemary and wet stone accentuated by sweet spice. This is seamlessly silky, almost oily in feel, with sapid yellow citrus and savory herbal tones enriched by vibrant acidity. It finishes potent and spicy, leaving the palate saturated in an intense staining of primary concentration. The potential here is off the charts, but today, the Vieris is one of the most backward wines out of the 2021 portfolio.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

The varietal white 2021 Garnacha Blanca, from one of their favorite vintages, was picked early to produce the fresh profile they like, with 12.9% alcohol, a pH of 3.15 and 6.55 grams of acidity. They used grapes from the village of Fitero to ferment the must in stainless with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured mostly in concrete, a 2,000-liter Stockinger foudre and five new 500-liter French oak barrels. It’s fresh, floral and elegant, with purity and balance, a spicy touch from the wood. It has a very tasty finish and even a salty twist, super fresh with lots of finesse. It has volume and freshness, the vibrancy from an early harvest and the contained ripeness and alcohol. This is the style they wanted for this wine and took the time to find it; it’s more Burgundian than Mediterranean, to me. It should age nicely in bottle. And a bargain. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2022 Pinot Blanc Réserve comes from the Brand Kirchberg (80%) and the granite soils of Niedermorschwihr, which adds texture and suppleness. The wine is rich and intense on the palate yet fresh, vital, well structured and persistently saline on the finish. This is a pretty complex Pinot Blanc from 50+-year-old vines. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2022 Pinot Blanc Réserve is a pure Pinot Blanc, made from one parcel in the Barnd Grand Cru and one in Niedermorschwihr, both on granite. They are harvested together, then co-pressed and co-fermented. Russet pear flesh and peel are evident on the nose, edged by slight mango notes. The palate is bright, fresh and beautifully intense, with pear peel and zestiness. This is a very fresh Pinot Blanc with much verve and direction. A lovely, zesty energy shines. (Bone-Dry)Vinous Media | 92 VM

Rich and savory in the glass, the 2022 Bramìto della Sala slowly opens to show hints of young peach and apricot, crushed rocks and hints of cardamon. This is silky yet lifted in feel with ripe white pit fruits complemented by hints of vanilla bean and lemon custard. The 2022 finishes with admirable length and potency, as a bump of residual acidity maintains a lovely freshness. Bramìto della Sala remains one of the best values in Italian Chardonnay.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis fresh white shows fine interplay between rich hints of creamed apple, persimmon, vanilla and biscuit, with notes of Meyer lemon peel and tangy salinity. Light- to medium-bodied and creamy on the palate, with a well-cut finish. Drink now through 2027. 10,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Here there is just enough reduction to blur the nuances of the floral and citrus confit-scented nose. On the palate though there is excellent freshness and underlying tension to the caressing, round and utterly delicious larger-bodied flavors that display lovely fruit-acid balanced on the citrusy, youthfully austere and lingering finale. It’s not often that I describe any Morgeot as ’stylish’ but this lovely effort qualifies.Burghound | 92 BH

They kept separate the Godello that was blended before, and they liked it so much that they decided to bottle it and release it as 2022 X Godello. It was produced with grapes from a one-hectare plot from their vineyard O Taboleiro, which was planted in 2008 on granite sandy soils that keep the acidity. It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavors, 13% alcohol and very good freshness (pH 3.1). I was very pleasantly surprised. The wine is elegant, serious and balanced, with austerity in the palate, very precise and detailed. 2,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled unoaked in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Bottled yesterday. Pale colour, elegant and stylish, then keeps going, this isa Folatières of elegance more than weight, with a classy and nuanced white fruit. Allow for this to develop more body as it grows up in bottle. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThere is a vague whiff of the exotic present on the elegant nose that offers up essence of pear, passion fruit and discreet floral wisps. The middleweight flavors are finer though not as concentrated while displaying very good length on the, stone and bitter lemon-inflected bone-dry finale.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2022 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau, matured half and half in vat and barrels, has a cohesive nose with shucked oyster shells infusing the citrus fruit. Quite classic in style. The palate is well-balanced with impressive depth and elegance. Sapid towards the finish with gentle grip, this Cuvée Guy Moreau is extremely promising.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA slightly cooler nose reflects notes of white pepper and a touch of the exotic while the wood treatment, while subtle, is a bit more noticeable. The old vines are in evidence as the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is markedly denser as the sappy extract coats the palate while buffering the moderately firm acid spine shaping the very dry, more complex and slightly long finale. Lovely.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet with yellow plum, wet stone, hints of baked bread and pressed white flowers. Very good intensity. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation, very good salinity and tension with superb precision towards the finish. This Les Clos doesn’t want the Valmur to get all the acclaim.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMModerate wood is present on the overtly floral-suffused nose of mostly white fleshed fruit, especially pear and apple, along with notes of citrus confit, acacia and oyster shell whiffs. There is excellent richness and concentration to the markedly powerful larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate on the overtly stony, dry and compact finale. At least moderate patience will be required as this is pretty tightly wound.Burghound | 92-95 BH

In Les Combards, the upper slope section of Caillerets. Pale lemon yellow. Quite a strict nose, a little suggestion of sulphur in with the stones. Always likely to be more austere from its location. At this stage at least it is not quite as complete as the very best Caillerets, but lovely wine. The finish is the best, with ripe lemons. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2022 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has another expressive bouquet, with hints of yellow flower combining with citrus peel and lemon verbena. This gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced, with a crisp, orange rind- and tangerine-tinged entry. Perhaps the Morgeot Les Grand Clos conveys more terroir on the finish, but this will still offer eight to ten years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2022 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Les Grands Clos has a clean and precise bouquet of Granny Smith and Conference pear, quite Puligny-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry, with a fine bead of acidity, quince and orange zest in the background and a lifted, very expressive finish that is an absolute delight.Vinous Media | 92 VMMid lemon colour, racy. A little stricter and chunkier than the graciousness of Fairendes, with a lemon infused energy at the back. Much more massive in structure, a real sense of energy throughout, less elegance than Fairendes, more power. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

The 2022 Saint-Véran La Grande Bruyère is aged in foudres installed at the Domaine in 2009 and comes from marn/Silesian soils that are apparently trickier to vinify. It has a complex bouquet, well-defined, with hints of camphor behind citrus fruit, marmalade and curry leaf. It’s mercurial and involving; these are absorbing aromatics. The palate is well balanced with tremendous weight, fine acidity, a slight reduction and traces of orange rind and white pepper toward the finish. Great length. This comes highly recommended.Vinous Media | 93 VM

This Vire Clesse from Roally showcases the pinnacle of Maconnais Chardonnay, hailing from one of the finest vintages in recent memory. On the nose, it offers an enticing bouquet of spring flowers intertwined with aromatic notes of lemon balm, white peach and verbena. On the palate, it is lively and fresh and the wine’s minerality shines through exhibiting the characteristic flinty undertone that is prized in the best examples from this appellation. This is the under $35 bottle of white Burgundy that Puligny Montrachet lovers serve at parties and pools. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 94 SP

Matured in a mix of 500-liter oak and 228-liter steel barrels, the 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is deep and layered, exhibiting aromas of pear, white flowers, blanched almonds and honeycomb. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with attractive purity of fruit and bright balancing acids, it underlines this estate’s continued progress.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP