White Burgundy

wines

Generous but not dominant wood fights a bit with the otherwise airy aromas of Granny Smith apples, just sliced citrus and a lovely array of Chablis elements that include iodine, oyster shell, and tidal pool wisps. The racy, intense and markedly stony broad-shouldered flavors possess evident power on the firm, compact and balanced finale that is dry but not especially austere. While perfectly normal in the context of what is typical for Les Clos, this is definitely going to need at least some forbearance, both to better integrate the wood treatment as well as develop better depth. Excellent.Burghound | 93-96 BH20% new wood and 80% inox for vinification, then all to barrel, but will not be bottled until February 2024. The bouquet shows all the majesty of Clos plus some wood as well. Early days. This absolutely fills the palate but the wood has the upper hand for the moment. It cannot entirely keep the fruit out of the picture though. This will get there but you need to wait. Drink from 2032-2040+. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JM

Cool, fresh and lively, yet the brisk acidity provides a great counterfoil for some succulent, juicy and ripe fruit. Clear Chablis origin, with the focus and intensity on the palate. This should have a long drinking window and is a very classy example, marrying the warmth of 2022 and the density of the premier cru.Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, matured around one-third in used barrel, sports a subtle reduction on the nose that works to its favor: white flowers commingle with Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced and precise, harmonious with orange pith and nectarine, just a touch of praline. It builds nicely in the glass and then slams its foot on the accelerator right on the finish as if to say: That’s all for now. One for the patient amongst you.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMBougros, according to Didier Séguier, is the place for those who like lots of ripeness and not too much minerality. Quality has increased greatly here with reduced yields. Plenty of weight and ripeness but also with finesse and appeal.Decanter | 92 DECFresh pale green tint. Didier describes this as the entry level grand cru. The average age of the vines is at or above 60 years. There is admirable tension here, an electric start, more middleweight through the middle, then quite a powerful middle with decent dry extract, and good length. Keeps coming back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMOnce again there is plenty of mineral reduction character suffusing the aromas of ripe pear, soft wood and tidal pool. The rich, full-bodied and overtly powerful broad-shouldered flavors are robust but not rustic on the bitter lemon, dry and balanced finale. This also needs more depth but that is virtually always the case with young Bougros.Burghound | 91-93 BH

The very steep aspect of Côte Bouguerots is highlighted by a much greater emphasis on minerality than Fevre’s Bougros. This is a grand cru is every way - so much drive on the palate with plenty of extract, concentration, salinity and length. Certain to keep very well but this is also surprisingly approachable early on. DIdier Seguier says it’s likely to close down after 18-24 months but this is clearly a fine example with masses of potential.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2022 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a clean and precise bouquet with hints of wild peach, apricot blossom, Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced with a very harmonious entry, blackcurrant leaf and spice, crushed stone and what feels like plenty of extract on the finish. This has great potential, but afford it time in your cellar.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis is the coolest and most restrained of this group of 2022s with its elegant aromas of prominent mineral reduction, lemon-lime, spice and oyster shell. There is almost painful intensity to the intensely stony and strikingly well-detailed larger-bodied yet still beautifully refined flavors that display huge length on the impeccably well-balanced finale. Like the Preuses, this is very classy and built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 93-95 BH

Starts ripe and fleshy in the mouth, then the minerality comes through. Fresh and direct, a very nicely balanced wine which, although approachable now, will age. The vines here lie on very steep slopes with full exposition to the sun. Early harvesting is the key to freshness.Decanter | 93 DECA small lot so better to assemble early, which has just been done. A fresh green light shines through the clouds nonetheless. Picked among the first, a little yellow fruit plums and fresh white peaches. Salty rather than saline, with a fine firm backbone. The finish is particularly impressive, with the fruit becoming ever fresher at the back of the palate. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMSlightly more evident wood can be found on the cool and elegant aromas of mineral reduction, spiced pear and pretty floral whiffs along with a plenitude of classic Chablis elements. The understated, pure and borderline delicate flavors are at once supple yet beautifully detailed as well as almost aggressively mineral-driven on the superbly long finish. This is pretty much textbook Vaudésir.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a less immediate nose than the Bougros, with hints of lanolin and estuarine scents, lemon verbena and fern. This builds with confidence in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation and cohesion, a welcome sour lemon edge, and salinity with a primal grapefruit finish. Again, this will require time once in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Showing a distinct green tinge in the glass. Plenty of purity and finesse, but not as dramatic as some premier crus. Missing a bit of complexity at the moment, although this will evolve with more time in bottle. Didier Séguier emphasised the need to pick early to preserve freshness. 20% matured in old barrels after malolactic fermentation.Decanter | 91 DECLocated at the very start of Troesmes, 55 to 60 year old vines. Fine fresh lemon yellow. A clean and elegant fruit forward nose, lighter in style than most 1ers crus, hence its place in the line-up. Youthful bitters again, then a serene follow through, pure and precise. Fine elegant finish. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMThe 2022 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru comes from 1.1 hectares of vines near the Troesmes vineyard, aged in 25-30% used oak. It takes a few swirls of the glass to get into its groove, scents of white flowers complementing green apple and Conference pear aromas. The palate is well-balanced with a peppery entry, a fine bitter lemon note lending nerve. Quite strict and classic in style, this Beauroy will deserve a couple of years in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMA whiff of exotic fruit lurks in the background of the aromas of white peach, spiced apple and seaweed nuances. Here too there is very good energy to the appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lemon zest-inflected finale. While this could also use better depth, the underlying material is here for that to occur in time.Burghound | 89-92 BH

The domaine’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, a parcel selection in Vaulorent, opens in the glass with notes of sweet citrus fruit, white flowers and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy palate that’s cool and fleshy, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Always one of the more quintessentially Chablisien wines in the range, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys offers up notes of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure palate that’s suave but incisive, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWith its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2022 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from north/northwest-facing vines. This complex and detailed bouquet of yellow fruit, lemon verbena and lemon thyme is quite minerally and focused. The well-balanced palate has a fine acidic spine, more sapidity than the Vaillons and a persistent and detailed finish as it fans out. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThere is a certain coolness to the otherwise ripe aromas of apple, pear, sea breeze and quinine. The succulent and unusually rich middleweight flavors are also nicely refined while flashing a bead of minerality on the youthfully austere, balanced and lilting finale that could use better depth. This citrusy effort is really quite good and one that should benefit markedly from a few years of keeping.Burghound | 91 BHJust assembled so cloudy, as all the lees remain in suspension. The bouquet is less fine but shows nonetheless a wealth of pure white fruit which is attractive. Lots of marl with a mix of portlandian and kimmeridgian soils, the former adding the body, the latter leaving the lick of salinity. Good length. Drink from 2026-2034. Tasted Jun 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it’s deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats.Decanter | 93 DECClear lemon and lime colour. Just a very light coquillage reduction. Then the wine builds a beautiful level of intensity on the palate, a lime thread, very salivating for its dry finish. An impeccable balance, this is faultless. And so persistent! Nothing heavy, nothing over sunny. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe cool and almost reticent nose makes clear that it could be from nowhere but Chablis with its array of prominent mineral reduction, shellfish and iodine-scented pear and floral aromas. The more refined if perhaps slightly less generous middleweight flavors possess both good volume and vibrancy on the lightly stony, persistent and balanced finish. This lovely effort should be more than capable of delivering 7 to 10 years of cellaring potential.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a tightly wound bouquet, maybe a little reduced now, rendering it challenging to read. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry, fine acidity, and modest depth, with a peppery touch lingering on the aftertaste. This needs a little more personality and engagement.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

This is also aromatically cool and almost as reticent with its airy aromas of white pepper, mineral reduction, essence of pear and a suggestion of wood influence. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors possess an even more developed sense of refinement while exhibiting fine length on the quinine, stony and bitter lemon zest-suffused finale. This is lovely and a Vaillons of finesse in 2022.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2021 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru had been blended the previous week, during which a majority of the lees is kept. Often one of my favorite cuvées from William Fevre, the entrancing bouquet has impressive intensity on the nose. The palate is well-balanced with lemon verbena and touches of pear, a fine sense of energy and composure, and a persistent finish. This already looks very promising.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMTypical Vaillons perfume and freshness. Precise but with good weight and precision. A classy Vaillons which will drink well when young but will also age. Fèvre owns 3.5ha, with 50% in Vaillons, and the rest spread between Chatains, Roncière and Melinots. Early harvest here.Decanter | 92 DEC

A more moderate dollop of wood can be found on the smoky aromas of petrol, rosemary oil and a variety of white fleshed fruit. The finer, though not nearly as concentrated, medium weight flavors display excellent power on the focused, balanced and saliva-inducing finale. This is more classic in style than any of the foregoing 1ers and a wine that should repay mid-term keeping.Burghound | 90-92 BH

Powerful, dense, and supple, the Corton Charlemagne from Boillot is an impressive wine with aromas of ripe apple, quince and apricot, floral notes, and butter. The grapes are sourced from parcels in Aloxe and Pernand; Boillot purchases the fruit as grapes, and his team does the harvest and the pressing. The result is classic Corton-Charlemagne in style that will open properly in three to five years and should age for 20 beyond that.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a blend of fruit from Aloxe-Corton (75%) and Pernand-Vergelesses (25%), a combination that works well in giving the wine balance. There’s quite a bit of phenolic intensity and youthful austerity here. Herbs, crushed rocks, graphite, mint and citrus confit build nicely. I very much admire the vibrancy here, even if the 2022 remains a bit unyielding today. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

All domaine fruit now, from Les Chevalières, Luraule. Pelles, Casses Têtes, Petits Charrons. Pale to medium lemon yellow. A generous bouquet speaking clearly of Meursault. A broad bench of ripe white apple fruit with excellent energy, good acidity behind, and notable persistence. Very Meursault and quite delicious. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Meursault is a rich, opulent white. Lemon confit, marzipan, spice and crushed rocks are all amplified. Clean mineral notes extend the finish while also providing a counterpoint to all the textural richness. The Meursault is a blend of parcels (including En Luraule, Petits Charrons, Casse-Têtes, Les Pelles), all estate, high up on the slope. The 25% new oak is nicely judged. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 90-92 VM

Cool and airy but ripe aromas are comprised by notes of citrus rind, white flower and plenty of mineral reduction character. There is excellent volume to the mouthcoating and punchy yet refined larger-bodied flavors that possess impressive concentration and power on the clean, dry and well-balanced finish. This is a wine that has excellent development potential yet is not so backward that it couldn’t be enjoyed after only four to five years of keeping. One to consider.Burghound | 93 BHJust bottled. A pretty, light lemon colour. A pleasing fragrance with spring flowers and the lighter side of plum fruit. Generous on the palate with a graphite touch which is probably the oak speaking, a wealth of fruit through the middle and enough flesh to cover the final point of acidity. Fine length as ever.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThe 2022 Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru is airy and delicate in its first impression, but there’s plenty of depth below its lifted, expansive bouquet. Ripe pear, mint, white pepper, baked apple tart and a hint of new oak all grace this wonderfully expressive, nuanced Meursault. Lovely. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 91-93 VM

This peerless wine is the summit of the domaine wines from Chartron. It is produced from a half-hectare of vines at the northern end of the original Chevalier-Montrachet. This is the Clos des Chevaliers, right next to the vines from Domaine d’Auvenay. The aromas span a complex range from lime zest through ripe pear to nectarine and passionfruit, with exotic spice, flint, and smoke nuances. The core of the texture is a rapier-fine acidity (even in sunny ’22), but there is density and weight as well. Allow seven to ten years before opening; this should drink well for 30 - 40 years from the vintage.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECA full primrose yellow. The bouquet is sturdier here, surprisingly, after the pure white fruit Bâtard. However, the chiselled elegance of Chevalier shows much more on the palate, where there is an impressive, if initially restrained, intensity and a second wave of flavour further back on the palate. This will be particularly fine and the aftertaste is notably persistent. A very long finish indeed. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMThe 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru has a taut and precise bouquet: much more mineralité than the Bâtard-Montrachet, quite tensile with a hint of white peach and orange blossom. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine depth and concentration counterbalanced by a brisk line of acidity. It gradually builds to a very suave and prolonged finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMHere the more restrained and cooler nose is even more floral-suffused with it array of citrus, Granny Smith apple, spice and an abundance of citrus elements. The wonderfully textured and almost painfully intense larger-scaled flavors possess a mouthfeel that is akin to rolling tiny pebbles around the mouth and this stony character continues onto the powerful, focused, austere and hugely long finale. This is extremely classy and very much built to repay extended keeping In a word, terrific.Burghound | 93-96 BH

This Corton-Charlemagne retains the stamp of Jean-Michel Chartron’s winemaking and its Côte de Beaune identity, yet it is quite distinct from the wines of Puligny. The exotic aromas range from apricot and nectarine to pomelo and passionfruit. The texture is sturdy and dense, but there is enough structure to balance the richness, albeit in a different register. The grapes are from a small domaine-owned parcel supplemented with grapes exchanged with another grower nearby. This wine will open three to five years after release and should age well.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECFive barrels. Fresh lemon and lime. A very pure clean white fruit on the palate. More perfumed than mineral at the outset. A generous concentrated white fruit across the palate, ripe apples in particular, well backed by its oak, with good length too. To bottle in April 2024. Drink from 2029-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMAn equally fresh nose features notes of green apple, petrol, citrus confit and an elegant floral wisp. The bigger-bodied flavors possess excellent volume and mid-palate density along with a similar amount of sappy dry extract that imparts an attractive texture while also buffering the moderately firm acid spine shaping the tautly muscular and nicely persistent finish where a touch of austerity slowly emerges. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping are in order but it won’t be necessary to hold it for years.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a slightly chalky bouquet with hints of walnut and smoke. It becomes flintier with aeration. The palate is well-balanced, though it doesn’t quite deliver the mineralité that a cooler season might have bestowed. It is a good length, though I am unsure if it will be a long-term proposition.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Pale lemon yellow. The bouquet is really quite striking, with a floral top note above a wealth of fruit with perfectly judged ripeness. Plenty of energy on the palate, as seems to be the case widely in 2022, with a little yellow plum fruit and ripe citrus to finish. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru conveys a sense of brightness on the nose: orange blossom, citrus peel and petrichor scents, lively and animated. The balanced palate is slightly waxy in texture with good depth, plenty of substance and a grippy finish. Maybe it doesn’t possess the finesse or nervosité of a cooler vintage, but this is packed with flavor.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA background suggestion of the exotic is present on the honeyed aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and passion fruit. There is even better volume to the caressing but quite punchy medium weight flavors that also conclude in an agreeably dry but not linear or especially austere finale. It is however quite tightly wound and this will need at least 5-ish years to become more approachable.Burghound | 91 BH