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Layered aromas of dried violets and roses, ripe red and black fruit, coriander and a hint of eucalyptus. Full-bodied with bright, humming acidity that amplifies the flavors of dark fruit and mint. Densely packed flavors of melted chocolate, espresso and overturned earth. Chewy finish. Simply delicious. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard comes from vines planted in 2006. The wine was bottled at the beginning of July 2020. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, it starts out with beguiling scent notions of crushed rocks, tilled soil, truffles and garrigue over a core of kirsch, red currant jelly and black raspberries before giving way to a spicy, fragrant perfume of cardamom, Provence herbs and lavender. The full-bodied palate is super intense and fantastically layered, offering a rock-solid backbone of racy freshness and firm, fine-grained tannins. It finishes on a persistent earthy/ferrous note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard brings together some of the aromatic breadth of the UV with the textural resonance of the CIX. Rose petal, lavender, spice, menthol, kirsch and dark cherry fruit build in a Pinot that balances density, power and energy. Rich and layered in the glass, with striking inner perfume, the UV-SL is superb.Vinous Media | 96 VMElegant and harmonious, with powerfully structured flavors of dark fruit and Asian spice, backed by rich acidity and supple tannins. There’s minerally snap midpalate, with a finish that shows hints of anise and black olive. Best from 2022 through 2028. 1,202 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Layered aromas of dried violets and roses, ripe red and black fruit, coriander and a hint of eucalyptus. Full-bodied with bright, humming acidity that amplifies the flavors of dark fruit and mint. Densely packed flavors of melted chocolate, espresso and overturned earth. Chewy finish. Simply delicious. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSThe UV site is right in the middle of Russian River, planted to Calera and Vosne-Romanée (suitcase) clones. The 2019 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard was aged in French oak, 60% new, and bottled at the beginning of July. Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the nose is wonderfully perfumed, featuring notes of red roses, underbrush, wild sage and menthol over a core of pomegranate, black raspberries and wild strawberries. The palate is softly textured and beautifully balanced with full-bodied, generous fruit and just enough freshness, finishing long with a red berry lift.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir UV Vineyard is incredibly delicate and refined. Freshly cut flowers, mint, sage, dried rose petals and blood orange infuse the UV with notable brightness and energy to match its soft curves. In the glass, the UV is nuanced and so full of complexity. The 2019 UV Pinot is one of the most elegant Pinots I have tasted from Mark Aubert. I would cellar the 2019 for a few years as it has just been bottled.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis crunchy red delivers flavors of dried raspberry and dark currant, with juicy acidity. Ends with toasty richness on the broad and well-spiced finish, with notes of tarragon. Drink now through 2025. 1,155 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2019 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard begins with singular touches of seaweed and candle smoke that give way to preserved citrus, white peaches, beeswax and lush jasmine perfume. The palate is dynamic, with a crescendo of honeyed fruits, gently tangy acidity and shimmery mineral character uplifting the finish. It’s Vine Hill Vineyard with the volume turned up!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA tangy, very energetic and tight chardonnay with lime and kiwi character to the sliced green apples. Sherbet at the end. Bitter lemon, too. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSHoney-soaked dried pineapple, Honeycrisp apple and lemon curd flavors are intense and juicy on a sleek, mouthwatering frame, with hints of toasted brioche and salted butter on the long finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,050 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSFrom a 16-acre site in the Russian River, the 2019 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is unquestionably another beautiful wine in the lineup. Lots of honeyed lemon, caramelized apple, brioche, and salty minerality all define the nose of this beauty, and it shows the more rounded, supple, yet seamless style of the vintage beautifully while holding onto a vibrant spine of acidity. It’s approachable today yet will benefit from a year or so of bottle age and keep through at least 2029.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2019 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is redolent of apricot, yellow flowers, tangerine oil and mint. In 2019, the Vine Hill is deep, opulent and beautifully textured. Readers should plan on cellaring the Vine Hill for at least a year or two, as it is an especially rich, dense wine, with real sense of structure underpinning the fruit.Vinous Media | 95 VM

An abundance of Chablis typicity is present on the aromas of mineral reduction, white orchard fruit, citrus zest and tidal pool. There is again very good volume and density to the medium-bodied flavors that are unusually powerful for Fourchaume, all wrapped in a lemony and almost salty finish. This is quite promising and particularly so for a négociant offering.Burghound | 90-93 BH(Chablis “Fourchaume”- Domaine William Fèvre (Domaine vines)) The Fourchaume from the estate’s own holdings in Fourchaume (all of which lie in Vaulorent) is a notable step up in the 2020 vintage from the bottling made from purchased fruit. The nose is pure, deep and precise, delivering scents of pear, apple, lime blossoms, just a touch of paraffin, spring flowers and a very complex base of limestone minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and rock solid at the core, with a bit more of a reserved personality than the above wine, but more backend lift, cut and grip. This wine has great focus and balance and will be stunning once it starts to blossom in four or five years. (Drink between 2026 - 2060)John Gilman | 93+ JGQuite a lot of weight here. A tad overripe perhaps? Less precision than the other wines so far. Big, powerful example of Fourchaume. Loads of acidity to keep everything fresh, should age well, perhaps not in quite such an elegant way.Decanter | 92 DEC

The second vintage to be bottled under this vineyard designation—the vineyard was planted in 2016—Aubert’s 2020 Chardonnay Park Avenue is a lush, full-bodied effort loaded with ripe-tasting stone fruit, set against a backdrop of white nectarine and fresh lime juice. Plump and creamy in the mouth, expansive and generous, it finishes with a savory hint of mocha. Sandwiched between Lauren and CIX, it’s a parcel that should yield even greater wines as the vines age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSucculent and lush, with buttery nuances to the apple pastry, toasted hazelnut and mouthwatering Honeycrisp apple, tangerine and Meyer lemon flavors at the core. This wine’s flavors and complexity gain momentum, ultimately achieving wonderful harmony on the long finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,644 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA tight and linear chardonnay with dried apples, lemons, honey, sea salt, and white pepper. Medium body. Solid and beautiful. Candied lemons. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2020 Chardonnay Park Avenue is laced with the essence of dried pear, spice, lemon confit, apple tart, spice and a hint of new French oak. There’s lovely depth and density here, even if the wine narrows a bit through the mid-palate and into the finish.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

A cool, late-harvest site relative to Aubert’s other sources, the 2020 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons also sees a bit less new French oak (50%). Readers will note that the oak made virtually no impression on me, as the wine bursts with aromas of ripe, honeyed melon, balanced by bright lime notes. Full-bodied, creamy and lush on the palate, this is just a pleasure to drink, finishing long and zesty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis stunning version opens with a rich impression, with candied ginger, marmalade and honeyed overtones to the core of fresh fruit flavors, including notes of pear, apple, melon and citrus. Hints of orange blossoms and minerality mingle with fresh acidity, while a nutmeg-dominant wave of spices gain momentum on the long finish. Drink now through 2033. 1,538 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA big and juicy white with cooked apple, pear, honey, and mineral. Flint. Full and layered with a flavorful and delicious finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL charges out of the gate with vibrant notes of grapefruit, lemon tart, and coriander seed, leading to wafts of struck flint, sea spray, yuzu zest, and peach blossom. Full-bodied, rich, and densely laden in the mouth with lemon and lime oil layers, it has just enough freshness and a pleasant suggestion of oiliness to the texture, finishing long and lifted. Around 1,500 cases of UV-SL are made. It is named after one of Sonoma’s most reputable vineyard managers, Ulises Valdez Sr. (UV), who passed away recently. The vineyard is situated on Stoetz Lane (SL), only six miles from the Pacific Ocean, up on the hills around Graton and Occidental. Aubert and Valdez Sr. collaborated on the planting of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir here.The Wine Independent | 98+ TWIA spicy and salty white with cooked apple and honey character. Light vanilla and pie crust. Medium to full body. Flavorful and very long, Excellent intensity and focus. White pepper and fruit at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSStarts with a sleek laser beam of ripe and pure apricot, grilled peach and Fuji apple, expanding into salted, toasted almond notes and flavors of lemon sherbet, dried ginger and nutmeg. Shows harmony on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2030. 1,444 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSNot since Robert Parker himself reviewed this wine have vintages of it scored in this vicinity. When viewed in isolation, the 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL is a thrilling wine; only in the rarified air of Aubert’s range could a 94-point rating be considered disappointing. It’s more linear and direct than the opulent, flamboyant 2021, with pronounced notes of crushed stone framing lime zest and white peaches. Full-bodied yet zesty, clean and refreshing, it’s a laser beam of bright fruit, seemingly without the typical Aubert fleshy curvaceousness. Some drinkers may even prefer it for that stylistic leaning.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard shows good energy and tension. The UV-SL remains a relatively light-bodied wine, but some of the hard edges I saw last year have started to soften. Orchard fruit and white pepper lend attractive brightness throughout.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2020 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is powerful and full of personality. It offers aromas of white peach, elderflower, lime peel, meringue and dried mint. Creamy and harmonious, with tangy yet integrated acidity, the medium-bodied palate unfurls layer after layer of candied citrus and flinty sparks, and it finishes with incredible length and spiciness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPLovely aromas of peach, grapefruit, brioche and dried herbs. Medium-bodied and elegant with great balance. Straw character comes through towards the finish. Delicious, with mildly oily texture. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSPacks a powerful, creamy mix of lemon bar, marmalade and buttery pastry flavors and a lovely sweet cream note to complement apricot, fresh citrus and spice accents. Reveals a whisper of flinty minerality and toasted, salted almond on the finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,340 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

A gorgeous nose of sliced pear, grapefruit, hazelnut and fresh thyme. Medium-to full-bodied with great texture. Rock-salt salinity. Real nuance and delicacy. Firm, but really layered and long. Flinty at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2020 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is pure and layered with scents of candied peaches, dried herbs, lime candy and jasmine. It continues to offer new aromas with each return to the glass. The palate is powerful and satiny, its concentration balanced by tangy acidity, and it finishes with lots of flinty nuances. It feels youthfully tense compared to some of the other Kistler Chardonnays this vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPFocused and intense, this white is aromatic up front, with fresh-clipped notes of lemon verbena and basil and just a hint of flint and chalk. Packs an incredibly juicy core, with mouthwatering Meyer lemon, yuzu and Honeycrisp apple flavors, plus grace notes of honeycomb and salted lime. The intense finish is focused and long. Drink now through 2030. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2020 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard offers a light resinous pine note on the nose, with white peach and apple skin. The texture is lifted and cleansing, with freshness in its notes of red apple, apple blossom, and lemon curd.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2020 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is pretty ripe in this vintage. It offers up scents of apricot, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile, sweet spice and orange peel. Medium in body, yet quite extroverted, the 2020 is nicely balanced.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Racy and focused. I like the aromas of lavender, violet and white roses alongside strawberry, cranberry and stone. Medium body, with firm and fine tannins that are long and succulent. It’s fine and polished. Vegan. Needs three to four years to come together.James Suckling | 94 JSAlways a popular choice, the Vietti 2020 Barolo Castiglione (made with a blend of fruit from multiple MGA sites) has a voluptuous approach with dark fruit, cola, wild berry coulis and smoky tar. The wine wears a hot vintage well, with accessible and powdery tannins for near or medium-term drinking. In terms of texture, the Castiglione has a little more brawn and body compared to your standard Barolo. This is an ample release of 70,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPFragrant, polished and vibrant right out of the gate, the 2020 Barolo Castiglione displays beautifully-lifted notes of crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, white pepper and orange peel. This classically built, mid-weight Barolo is classy to the core. Like all the 2020s here, it will benefit from time in bottle or a good decantVinous Media | 93 VMFloral, fruity, and appealing, the 2020 Barolo Castiglione is the calling card of the estate for the entry to the Barolo range. Emblematic of the vintage, it’s appealing upfront, with aromas of cherry candies, crushed flowers, apricots, and dusty earth. On the palate, it offers sweet tannins, fresh acidity, and a clean finish, with nothing heavy. It is a lovely and easy-drinking wine already, but it doesn’t lack Nebbiolo character. This will be a wine to snap up on restaurant lists for its value and approachability. Drink 2024-2034. 50,000 bottles.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDA lean, tightly wound red, with cranberry, sour cherry, licorice, eucalyptus and earth flavors. Fresh and stitched with burly tannins, this leaves a juicy, savory finish. Best from 2027 through 2040. 10,330 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Pie crust with brioche, lemon meringue, lime leaf, and blackboard chalk. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with terrific structure and incredibly complex on the finish with seaweed and umami. Sea breeze, iodine and oyster finish. Superb wine. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL comes from largely Goldridge soils in parcels owned and managed by the Valdez family (UV being the initials of Ulises Valdez, Aubert’s frequent vineyard collaborator, who died in 2018). There are 2,000 cases of this elixir, which offers up classic notes of toasted hazelnuts, white peaches and citrus zest. It’s full-bodied, rich and opulent yet contained and controlled, with great silky length and energy. Aubert describes the oak thusly: "The oak is perfect. It just kisses you with a bit of vanilla and cookie dough." The wine is certainly delicious, and thinking back on it, I wonder if my rating is a bit conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is one of the more exotic wines in the range. Initially a bit ethereal, the 2021 opens beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, where it shows tremendous breadth and notable mineral intensity. The UV-SL is not quite as obvious as some of the other wines in this range, but its pedigree is evident. There’s real density here, and tons of class.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

A bigger, richer white, especially in the context of the vintage, the 2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc offers up a medium to full-bodied, vibrant, concentrated style as well as classic notes of honeyed melon, crushed stone, white flowers, and dried herbs. I love its mid-palate depth, and it has beautifully integrated acidity and outstanding length. It’s another serious, age-worthy white in 2021 that will benefit from short-term bottle age and be long-lived.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc marries the natural energy of this cool year with lovely mid-palate creaminess and texture. Understated yet persistent, the 2021 presents a gorgeous display of pear, white flowers and mint, along with a subtle touch of oak that frames the finish. Today, the 2021 is quite a bit less expressive than it was en primeur. It was also bottled in May 2022 (versus May 2023 for the reds) and may be in a closed period, which is not unusual for wines from cold years. We shall see.Vinous Media | 95 VMPeach and waxed-lemon character here. Some fennel and aniseed, too. Very fresh. Medium to full body with a round, creamy palate. A little closed for now at the end. 55.2% semillon and 44.8% sauvignon.James Suckling | 95-96 JSLa Mission Haut-Brion Blanc 2021 leaps from the glass with notes of fresh grapefruit, white peaches, and honeysuckle, leading to touches of elderflower and sea spray. The medium-bodied palate is tightly wound, with vibrant stone fruit and zesty flavors, supported by a crisp backbone, finishing long and steely.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIA fresh, incipiently complex bouquet of pear, grapefruit, freshly baked bread and wet stones prefaces the 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy wine with a satiny attack that segues into a taut, structured mid-palate built around chalky dry extract, which lend this a more tightly-knit, mordant profile than the broader, fatter and more enveloping Haut-Brion Blanc.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPFloral and green fruit aromas on the nose. Juicy and upfront, lively and fun, this has zing and focus. I love the almost sherbet lemon touch to the initial expression followed by soft green fruit and some softly spiced herbal accents. It’s clear and clean, bright and focussed. Tapers a little towards the finish, just lightening, but lovely and enjoyable - very aerial in style.Decanter | 94 DEC

The Ca’ Marcanda 2021 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in a supporting role. This a bold and beautifully concentrated wine with a brilliant character that is best described as Rubenesque. It shows supple texture and deep richness supported by sweet fruit and raspberry tart. The ripe, well-managed tannins cede to tingling freshness that adds energy and life.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2021 Camarcanda is a fabulous wine from the Gaja family, the best they have ever made at their Bolgheri property. The wines here have been through some ups and downs, but there seems to be greater focus over these last few years. Silky, aromatic and wonderfully pure, the 2021 Camarcanda offers a super, contemporary expression of Bolgheri with plenty of coastal sunshine and warmth, but nothing excessive. Silky tannins frame the exceptionally polished, nuanced finish. The 2021 is so alluring.Vinous Media | 97 VMPure and elegant, with saturated flavors of violet, black currant, blackberry, licorice and iron. This is so beautifully balanced that it feels almost seamless, even at this young stage, offering a sleek profile and endless aftertaste that echoes the fruit. The oak is very well-integrated, with polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 2,500 cases made, 333 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSBottled in July of 2022, the 2021 Ca’ Marcanda has a dark saturated ruby hue and seamless aromatics of graphite, black cherry liqueur, cocoa powder, and forest herbs. Full-bodied on the palate, with great structure, focus and length, and wonderful richness, it’s incredibly even in its balance and has a very long finish. It’s going to need a few years to improve and show its best, but this is a remarkable wine from this stunning vintage. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDSince the hot 2015 vintage, Merlot has been omitted from Carmarcanda. It’s a stunning effort in 2021, with fragrant scents of dried cherry, sous bois and minty black fruits, which carry through onto the intense and vibrant palate. There’s a streak of balsamic herbs, and some raspberry and floral notes too. Poised and minty-fresh, this is a stunner.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA savory and juicy young red with currant, raspberry and boysenberry aromas and flavors that follow through to a medium to full body, with creamy and polished tannins and a pretty finish. There’s a freshness and focus to this. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

30 months of oak wood of various sizes for a significant part of Ilcinese history, still heavily on the shields. Nose attack with sensations of Vignola durone, then shades of valdostan mint, mandarin and cinnamon. Very vertical on the palate, with fruity memory.Luca Gardini | 99 LGLavender, dark spice, Mediterranean scrub, perfumed wild berry, pipe tobacco and new leather aromas come to the forefront on the gorgeous Argiano 2021 Brunello. Solidifying their role as one of the denomination’s top producers, this is focused, refined and loaded with intensity, delivering layers of black cherry compote, juniper berry, licorice, cocoa and blood orange accompanied by a backbone of fine-grained, well-integrated tannins. It’s still young but already beautifully balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2031–2039. Abv: % Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and intense, with a smoldering bouquet of ashen stones, grilled herbs and dried black cherries. It is surprisingly energetic and lifted in feel, with racy red berry fruits and rosy inner florals that form a truly satisfying experience. The 2021 is pleasantly chewy and long, leaving a coating of fine-grained tannins and a nuance of tart blackberry.Vinous Media | 94+ VMA jeweled red/ruby color, the 2021 Rosso Di Montalcino needs air, opening with a bit of elevated volatile aromas before revealing notes of cherry candies, pressed roses, and licorice. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins and a nice primary profile, with an easygoing nature. It’s going to be a versatile wine for casual drinking over the next few years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

The very steep aspect of Côte Bouguerots is highlighted by a much greater emphasis on minerality than Fevre’s Bougros. This is a grand cru is every way - so much drive on the palate with plenty of extract, concentration, salinity and length. Certain to keep very well but this is also surprisingly approachable early on. DIdier Seguier says it’s likely to close down after 18-24 months but this is clearly a fine example with masses of potential.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2022 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a clean and precise bouquet with hints of wild peach, apricot blossom, Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced with a very harmonious entry, blackcurrant leaf and spice, crushed stone and what feels like plenty of extract on the finish. This has great potential, but afford it time in your cellar.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis is the coolest and most restrained of this group of 2022s with its elegant aromas of prominent mineral reduction, lemon-lime, spice and oyster shell. There is almost painful intensity to the intensely stony and strikingly well-detailed larger-bodied yet still beautifully refined flavors that display huge length on the impeccably well-balanced finale. Like the Preuses, this is very classy and built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 93-95 BH

A stunning example, with finesse allied to power. Real tension and energy here. Will be approachable quite young, but really should be aged for over five years for the best result. Fèvre has 2.24ha within Montée de Tonnerre. Plots are located in Pied d’Aloup (facing east) with profound Kimmeridgian soils bringing freshness, Chapelot facing south on deep soil adding richness, and Côte de Brechain facing west on top of the hill with the oldest plots dating back to 1936.Decanter | 95 DECFrom multiple plots: east facing kimmeridgian marl in Pied d’Aloue (0.50ha), one hectare in Chapelot, (more soil here, fatter wine), then the rest in Bréchain, where vines dating back to 1936, give tension. What a beautiful bouquet. This has the sensual aspect of a delightful sunny summer, yet with an entrancing freshness behind. This is quintessential right bank, yet with balance Drink from 2027-2037. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMAn elegant, pure and wonderfully airy nose more freely reflects its aromas of white flowers, prominent mineral reduction and plenty of seashore elements. There is at once more volume but, somewhat surprisingly, even better refinement to the medium weight plus flavors that retain excellent detail while also flashing an almost pungent stoniness on the driving, firm and impeccably well-balanced finale. One to look for as this is very impressive.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is more reticent on the nose and perhaps doesn’t quite engage as the 2021 did last year. A bit bashful at the moment. The palate is well-balanced with a saline entry, though it feels strict and contained, without the flair demonstrated by the Les Lys at the moment. Has this got something up its sleeve? It’s a bit too austere and reticent for my liking.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

This sits at the top of the Valmur slope, but it surprisingly has a vein of clay soil, too, which contributes generously to this wine’s fantastic palate density. It’s loaded up with perfectly ripe fruits yet has plenty of palate architecture to boot. The flavors start with plumcot, feijoa and star fruit. The intensity of the crunch and length attest to this wine’s ability to age to benefit. (2024).Tim Atkin | 96 TAFèvre’s Valmur plots lie over marly Kimmeridgian soils, with the emphasis here on freshness and a degree of austerity. Very dramatic, dense and concentrated on the palate, and which exudes purity and drive. A great success in 2022 and great ageing potential.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2022 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is very closed on the nose, perhaps the most austere of William Fèvres’ cuvées, steely and almost curmudgeonly at the moment. The palate is well-balanced with a palpable saline leaning, very estuarine in style, with touches of oyster shell towards the finish. The purists’ choice. Superb.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThe holding sits on the marly vein up top on the crest, looking east south and west. Pure light yellow, Excellent tension, crystalline fruit coats the teeth, a solid mass which is currently very much more tightly coiled than most. Really kicks on. Ten years minimum please. Drink from 2032-2040+. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMHere too there is slightly more evident wood that stops short of fighting with the ripe aromas of various white orchard fruit scents that are nuanced by hints of tidal pool, algae and oyster shell. The denser, powerful and quite serious big-bodied flavors possess a gorgeous texture if not nearly the same level of refinement while displaying superb length on the robust finale. This firmly structured effort is also pretty much a textbook example.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Starts ripe and fleshy in the mouth, then the minerality comes through. Fresh and direct, a very nicely balanced wine which, although approachable now, will age. The vines here lie on very steep slopes with full exposition to the sun. Early harvesting is the key to freshness.Decanter | 93 DECA small lot so better to assemble early, which has just been done. A fresh green light shines through the clouds nonetheless. Picked among the first, a little yellow fruit plums and fresh white peaches. Salty rather than saline, with a fine firm backbone. The finish is particularly impressive, with the fruit becoming ever fresher at the back of the palate. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMSlightly more evident wood can be found on the cool and elegant aromas of mineral reduction, spiced pear and pretty floral whiffs along with a plenitude of classic Chablis elements. The understated, pure and borderline delicate flavors are at once supple yet beautifully detailed as well as almost aggressively mineral-driven on the superbly long finish. This is pretty much textbook Vaudésir.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a less immediate nose than the Bougros, with hints of lanolin and estuarine scents, lemon verbena and fern. This builds with confidence in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation and cohesion, a welcome sour lemon edge, and salinity with a primal grapefruit finish. Again, this will require time once in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The domaine’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, a parcel selection in Vaulorent, opens in the glass with notes of sweet citrus fruit, white flowers and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy palate that’s cool and fleshy, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it’s deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats.Decanter | 93 DECClear lemon and lime colour. Just a very light coquillage reduction. Then the wine builds a beautiful level of intensity on the palate, a lime thread, very salivating for its dry finish. An impeccable balance, this is faultless. And so persistent! Nothing heavy, nothing over sunny. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe cool and almost reticent nose makes clear that it could be from nowhere but Chablis with its array of prominent mineral reduction, shellfish and iodine-scented pear and floral aromas. The more refined if perhaps slightly less generous middleweight flavors possess both good volume and vibrancy on the lightly stony, persistent and balanced finish. This lovely effort should be more than capable of delivering 7 to 10 years of cellaring potential.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a tightly wound bouquet, maybe a little reduced now, rendering it challenging to read. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry, fine acidity, and modest depth, with a peppery touch lingering on the aftertaste. This needs a little more personality and engagement.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Always one of the more quintessentially Chablisien wines in the range, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys offers up notes of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure palate that’s suave but incisive, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWith its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2022 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from north/northwest-facing vines. This complex and detailed bouquet of yellow fruit, lemon verbena and lemon thyme is quite minerally and focused. The well-balanced palate has a fine acidic spine, more sapidity than the Vaillons and a persistent and detailed finish as it fans out. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThere is a certain coolness to the otherwise ripe aromas of apple, pear, sea breeze and quinine. The succulent and unusually rich middleweight flavors are also nicely refined while flashing a bead of minerality on the youthfully austere, balanced and lilting finale that could use better depth. This citrusy effort is really quite good and one that should benefit markedly from a few years of keeping.Burghound | 91 BHJust assembled so cloudy, as all the lees remain in suspension. The bouquet is less fine but shows nonetheless a wealth of pure white fruit which is attractive. Lots of marl with a mix of portlandian and kimmeridgian soils, the former adding the body, the latter leaving the lick of salinity. Good length. Drink from 2026-2034. Tasted Jun 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

The 2023 Chardonnay Powder House finds Mark Aubert at the top of his game. Rich and unctuous in the glass, the 2023 has it all. Preserved lemon, white flowers, slate, mint, tangerine oil, lychee, and a kiss of French oak fill out the layers. A flicker of reduction adds freshness as this opulent, large-scale Chardonnay shows off its alluring personality.Vinous Media | 97 VM

Derived from over 70-year-old vines at the top of a south- and southeast-facing slope, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos opens with a deep bouquet of orange peel, Anjou pear, beeswax and jasmine, mingling with notes of warm stones. Full-bodied, multifaceted and layered, it is concentrated and enveloping, with a muscular core balanced by ample chalky extract that imparts a sensation of freshness, laden with racy acidity and culminating in a long, saline finish. Harmonious yet built for the long term, it will richly reward patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPYear after year, Fèvre’s Les Clos is among the great wines of Chablis. In 2023, the pronounced aromas range from grapefruit to nectarine and green apple, laden with pungent, salty mineral notes and a little smoky reduction – a bit of everything, really. The texture is dense, almost impenetrable at this age, but enlivened by a lovely hint of bitterness at the end. It is truly a wine for the ages. Ideally wait a decade before opening; this wine will last at least 40 years.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECAfter the fireworks of the les Preuses and Côte de Bouguerots, I always approach Domaine Fèvre’s les Clos as if there could not possibly be yet another level of quality here, but it always manages to land just a touch higher in the hierarchy than the two magical wines that preceded it in the tasting! The 2023 les Clos is stellar, offering up a vibrant bouquet of apple, pear, lime, beeswax, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones, raw almond, citrus zest and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and perfectly balanced, with a beautiful core of fruit, a superb girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive and cut and a long, seamlessly balanced and complex finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2033-2070)John Gilman | 96 JGA more restrained nose grudgingly exhibits pronounced mineral reduction nuances that add breadth to the markedly floral nose of seashore, iodine and oyster shell scents. I very much like the mouthfeel of the powerful and concentrated larger-scaled flavors that are akin to rolling a small pebble around the mouth while displaying excellent length on the very dry, long, youthfully austere and balanced finish that is supported by overtly citrus-tinged acidity. Patience strongly recommended.Burghound | 94 BHA glowing lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very backward at first, less demonstrative than Preuses. A greater richness of texture than Côte Bouguerots to add to the chiselled white fruit intensity and them a gorgeous, concentrated succulent aftertaste without sucrosity. Good acidity at the back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from 4 hectares of vines, mostly at the top of the slope on limestone-rich soils. Oyster shell and light sea spray scents on the nose entwined with hints of orange pith and wild mint. The palate is very concentrated and intense, more so than William Fèvre’s other Grand Cru. Very harmonious with a poised, stem ginger tinged-finish that lingers long in the mouth. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMA chalky, stony mineral element leads off, with peach, yellow plum and orange Creamsicle, plus touches of herbs. This is supple and juicy, with charm through the persistent, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2034. 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSDelicate aromas of lemon blossom, green apple and honeysuckle waft from the glass buttressed by zested orange peel. Fresh and bright on the palate, the wine is steely in texture with gentle acidity that refreshes without making itself the center of attention. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Sourced from an east-facing slope that yields one of the racier and more ethereal wines in the range, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses opens with aromas of oyster liquor, orange peel, white flowers and lemon oil. Medium- to full-bodied, taut and tensile, it is nakedly chalky, incisive and searingly saline. The site is so steep that special cable equipment is employed for its cultivation.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2023 Chablis “les Preuses” from the domaine is simply superb on both the nose and palate. The utterly complex bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of apple, fresh lime, anise, citrus zest, a touch of paraffin and a stunning foundation of chalky minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, precise, full-bodied and utterly defined by its underlying minerality, with a great core of fruit, a fine spine of acidity, laser-like focus and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. A great example of les Preuses. (Drink between 2033-2070)John Gilman | 95+ JGAn airy, expressive and beautifully layered nose speaks primarily of citrus, acacia blossom, iodine and shellfish nuances. There is excellent volume and better mid-palate density to the solidly powerful and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess a sappy texture that carries over to the balanced, long and quite serious finale. This too is very classy and a wine that should amply repay up to a decade of keeping.Burghound | 94 BHThis wine has an intriguing duality. Enticing aromas of dried summer field grass and fall-picked red apple open on the nose punctuated by hints of green pear and forest floor. The rich and fulsome palate parades around a reserved fruit core that projects strength.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA stunning nose, a little wrapping of seaweed around the stones. Perfectly balanced, then just when you are enjoying the subtlety, you sense the huge block of central white fruit as well. Only a little bit spicy, in fact even quite juicy at the finish. A long-term keeper, potentially a magnificent Preuses. The texture of a silk cravat suggests Didier Seguier. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThis is rich and interwoven with peach, yellow plum, earth, stone and oyster shell aromas and flavors. Tangy and mouthwatering, with terrific harmony and a long, citrus- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2033. 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2023 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru comes from 2.5 hectares of vines split over two parcels. Scents of grapefruit, white flowers, and crushed stone. A touch of sea spray comes through with time and eventually gains admirable intensity. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, fine acidity, maybe not quite as complex as the Côte Bouguerots. A little more understated on the finish. But this will age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Didier Séguier has crafted an absolutely brilliant example of Valmur in 2023. The wine delivers superb complexity in its nose of pear, green apple, fresh lime, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, raw almond, citrus blossoms and a touch of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and impeccably balanced, with a gorgeous core of succulent fruit, a great girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive and grip and a long, vibrant and very precise finish. (Drink between 2033-2070).John Gilman | 95 JGSourced from parcels just beneath the forest, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur opens with aromas of white flowers, pear and lemon oil, mingling with notes of oyster shell. Medium- to full-bodied, it reveals a chalky core and a layered, textural palate laden with racy acidity, concluding with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThis wine knows its own strength but doesn’t flaunt it. Aromas of freshly-sliced golden apple, bread dough and lemon tart open on the nose complemented by white-peach blossom. The palate echoes the nose in equal proportion along with dried hay, forest floor and zested lemon peel.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru comes from the top sector on the incline with a south-east facing orientation on a vein of marl. That scent of shucked oyster shell permeates the nose and puts it above Vaudésir in terms of complexity. A superb reduction. The palate is taut and fresh, more complex and certainly more saline. There’s a bit of meanness on the finish, but that is not written pejoratively. For those seeking more traditional Chablis this vintage.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMA laserlike profile tries to keep the lid on flavors of yellow flowers, quince, apple and bitter grapefruit. A mineral vein emerges on the finish, driven by vibrant acidity. Balanced and long overall; this just needs a year or two to relax. Best from 2027 through 2039. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSRipe and airy if more restrained aromas are comprised by notes of green fruit, quinine, tidal pool, citrus rind and a touch of oyster shell. Much like the Bougros there excellent volume to the rich, even plush, broad-shouldered flavors coat the palate with dry extract before culminating in serious, compact, youthfully austere and built-to-age finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. This also has fine upside potential.Burghound | 93 BHRecently racked so a bit cloudy. Blocks the nose. A vast raft of white fruit, very spicy, liquorice notes as well, a volume of fruit over and above the Vaudésir, I can see why it is served afterwards. Quality reduction at the back, Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JM