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Chevalier-Montrachet 2023 from Domaine Michel Niellon is among the luminous successes of the vintage. The initial restraint on the nose gives way on the palate to aromas of ripe pear and quince with a hint of marzipan and fresh white flowers. The texture is generous, almost voluptuous, but there is a balance and elegance that hint at its noble origins. The grapes are from 0.22ha of 60-year-old vines at the base of the slope near the Leflaive parcel. Ideally, one would wait 10 years for this wine to show its full potential.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECOnce again there is a smoky whiff on the pretty, cooler and much more complex nose of wonderfully spicy pear and apple scents that are liberally laced with citrus and petrol nuances. The sleek, intense and more concentrated markedly mineral-driven flavors terminate in a chiseled, youthfully austere and bitter lemon-inflected finale that just goes on and on. This is a powerful but impeccably well-balanced Chevalier that should easily reward a decade plus of cellaring. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 95 BHPlanted in 1963 Lucie thinks. A bit degenerate, so lots of millerand. Picked at the start. Just as pale in colour, however the nose has more character showing the white limestone soil. Very linear, a classic Chevalier in the mouth, with warmth and energy to finish, but this is like licking the rock itself, more than eating the fruit. Quite tightly wound, so well worth longer keeping. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThe 2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with crushed limestone, slightly more malic than Niellon’s Chassagnes. A touch of nuttiness develops with aeration. There is a pleasing strictness here. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. There is a little CO2 in the barrel sample, yet the energy is palpable on the finish, and it feels long and sustained in the mouth.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

The 2023 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons rockets from the glass with super-intense notes of lime blossoms, fresh yellow apples, orange peel, and chalk dust, plus hints of struck flint and grapefruit oil. The medium-bodied palate shimmers with citrus and stone fruit flavors, supported by fantastic tension and a satiny texture, finishing long and zesty. If served to me blind, I might mistake it for a Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne.The Wine Independent | 100 TWIRemarkable, powerful and complex, with smoked butterscotch, pear, tangerine, white peach, apricot preserves and dried mango, plus floral accents of honeysuckle and orange blossoms. Notes of pineapple upside-down cake, candied ginger and sweet cream add richness and elegance. The freshness from the acidity amplifies the flavors on the epic finish. Drink now through 2038. 1,289 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2023 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is classic Hyde. Just textbook. Orange confit, lychee, burnt sugar, baked apple tart and apricot are dialed up all the way. Flashy, exuberant and opulent to the core, the 2023 is a great Hyde from Mark Aubert. An archetype.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2023 Chardonnay Lauren Estate needs a lot of swirling to bring out evocative scents of Bosc pears, honeydew melon, marzipan, and honeycomb, plus hints of chalk dust and lime blossoms. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers intense, profound orchard fruit and savory layers, supported by beautifully knit acidity and a silken texture, finishing long with a spicy kick.The Wine Independent | 100 TWIThe 2023 Chardonnay Lauren is the Mark Aubert wine par excellence. Creamy and layered, the 2023 is so sensual and alluring. Orange confit, mint, baked apple and a kiss of French oak all grace the palate. Lifted, precise and so elegant, the Lauren impresses with its seamless personality and compelling balance.Vinous Media | 99 VMGrilled lemon and pineapple are a bold opening, with litsea oil and lemon balm notes giving way to flavors of ripe peach and apricot, plus a hint of green cardamom. Makrut lime leaf, lemongrass and lemon basil details linger on the long, aromatic and expressive finish. Drink now through 2040. 1,218 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WS

The 2023 Chardonnay Sugar Shack needs a little shaking and coaxing to bring out delicate notes of Golden Delicious apples, lemon curd, lime jelly, and candle wax, plus nuances of baking bread and chopped almonds. The medium to full-bodied palate is creamy textured with soft acidity and bags of apple and citrus-inspired flavors, finishing with a zesty lift.The Wine Independent | 98 TWIThe 2023 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is redolent of apricot, chamomile, floral-infused honey, marzipan and dried flowers. Brisk acids lend energy. There’s a ton of phenolic depth and savory intensity here. This builds beautifully with time in the glass. Superb.Vinous Media | 96 VMBright and juicy, with wonderful purity to the core of mango puree, grilled lemon, Sumo citrus and tangerine flavors. Shows accents of ripe peach, dried pineapple, crème brûlée and bergamot, along with fresh lemon and lime zest. There’s a touch of sesame candy crunch on the finish. Drink now through 2037. 780 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2023 Chardonnay UV-SL has vibrant notes of pink grapefruit, fresh pineapple, and peaches, giving way to nuances of Marcona almonds, wet slate, and white pepper. The medium to full-bodied palate is compellingly silky with wonderful freshness, filling the mouth with layers of citrus, tropical, and orchard fruit flavors, finishing with epic length and depth. Stunning!The Wine Independent | 100 TWIThe 2023 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is a wild, exotic wine. Lifted tropical notes meld into a core of green orchard fruit, mint and lime zest. As is so often the case, the UV-SL is defined by its textural presence, layers of fruit and plush, enveloping curves.Vinous Media | 96 VMOffers a stunning mix of crème brûlée, orange curd and peach preserves, with so much depth and complexity to the range of details, including wildflower honey and apricot pastry, plus spicy accents of nutmeg and Saigon cinnamon. Toffee and a touch of smoked salt linger on the finish. Drink now through 2035. 2,357 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2023 Gaia & Rey is superb. In fact, it’s one of the finest Gaia & Reys I have tasted. Vibrant and sculpted to the core, the 2023 is all class. Hints of apricot, white flowers, baked apple and chalk open with a bit of coaxing. This really fleshes out on the back end, where super-refined contours pull it all together.Vinous Media | 96 VMAromas of tropical fruit and apple carry over to the elegant palate along with layers of culinary spice and French oak. It’s polished and balanced, with fresh acidity that keeps it lifted. Drink or hold for more complexity. Drink through 2030. Abv: 13% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

The Vaulorent from Fèvre is more mineral than its Montée de Tonnerre, if a bit less lush, with aromas of lime peel, mirabelle plum, and passion fruit. The texture is chiselled and concentrated, with layers of tightly wound extract and a dense, chalky finish. The grapes are from 3.6ha in Vaulorent, which is part of Fourchaume but located on the side of the grands crus. Winemaker Didier Séguier chooses his favourite blocks for this bottling and crafts a ’classic’ Fourchaume from the rest. Fermentation is done in older casks for 40-50% of the grapes. (Drink between 2030-2060)Decanter Magazine | 95 DECSourced from the upper part of the climat and planted with 40- to 60-year-old vines, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, orange peel, peach, pear and a delicate reductive signature. Medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it is framed by ample, chalky structuring extract and racy acidity, concluding with a persistent, saline finish. This is a terrific performer once again.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPA bit more vertical than the more complete, rounder Fauchaume. This shows a touch of smoky, flinty stones with slightly crisper acidity. Lots of brightness with a saline, pithy finish. It challenges you a bit more with slightly more austerity perhaps. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2023 Chablis “Vaulorent” from Domaine William Fèvre is outstanding. The wine’s bouquet is bright and complex, hopping from the glass in a mix of lime, pear, green apple, chalky minerality, a touch of anise and a lovely floral topnote redolent of citrus blossoms. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and shows off superb depth of fruit at the core, with great mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and outstanding length and grip on the complex and racy finish. A classic in the making! (Drink between 2030-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGDistinctive, this white is downright spicy, featuring flavors of peppery greens, lemon, lime zest and mineral, plus a hint of white pepper. Well-defined and balanced, with a long, stony finish. Best from 2026 through 2038. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSGreen apple, bosc pear and white peach skin aromas merge in the glass accentuated by hints of dried herbs and bread dough. The palate elevates fresh orchard fruit, toasted lemon peel and crushed wet stone. Pair with grilled-cheese toast and lentil soup.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WERipe, fresh and pretty aromas are comprised by notes of the essence of white fleshed fruit, especially peach and pear, along with hints of acacia, mineral reduction and algae. There is a bit more volume to the highly seductive and caressing medium-bodied flavors that retain good underlying tension that also suffuses the balanced, youthfully austere and slightly firmer finish. Worth considering.Burghound | 92 BHPale but glowing, a note of citron confit, an additional depth compared to the Fourchaume. More flesh but perfectly proportioned, fine and elegant, and very long indeed. This should be first class. Flavours will absolutely not go away! As much yellow as white but balanced. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2023 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet–oyster shells and a touch of petrichor, quite intense. The palate is well balanced with a pleasant "bite" on the entry. A twist of sour lemon imparts tension and gets the saliva flowering. Fine weight on the finish, this should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Grapes for the 2023 Chardonnay Russian River Valley were harvested over the course of a month, from initial picks on September 13 to the last pick on October 14. It was barrel-fermented, underwent full malolactic conversion and was matured for 12 months in 10% new French oak barrels. It has open, inviting aromas of stone fruit and pineapple, panna cotta, ginger, toasted brioche and honey. The palate combines concentrated, layered flavors with fireworks of fresh acidity, and it has a very long, perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSourced from Lafranchi, Westside Farms, Sonoma Foothills, Martinelli Laughlin, Kilcullen, Dutton Sebastopol, and Frank Johnson—all cool-climate sites with low-vigour soils such as Goldridge loam, planted between 1978 and 2017 and aged for 12 months on the lees in barrel (10% new French oak). This is clean and sleek, a beautifully balanced medium-bodied Chardonnay with luxuriously ripe stone and orchard fruit. Exotic baking spices complement layers of guava, white peach, and macerated mango with apricot. But what’s most impressive is the intensity and purity of the fruit—so precisely delineated, profoundly spicy, and laser-focused. At $50, this is one of the finest, most balanced, and well-structured Chardonnays from the Russian River Valley at this price point.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECLeaps out of the glass with intensity, offering vibrant fruit flavors of crisp Meyer lemon, apple and pear. Aromatic details of tangerine, lime sherbet and lemon blossoms add complexity alongside fresh herbal accents of lemon balm and sweetgrass. Crushed rock minerality lingers on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2039. 13,549 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSEnergetic acidity and ample fruit flavors give this full-bodied wine a sense of strength and structure. After a blast of green apple, pine bough and citrus aromas, an array of subtle baking spice, ripe pear and baked apple flavors come out as you sip. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JS

The Maltroie red has a deep ruby colour and an admirable concentration of red and black fruit with hints of earth, smoke and violets. The texture is silky, but there is also depth and enough structure to draw this out to a lingering finish. The grapes are from 0.44ha of the Clos de la Maltroie, not to be confused with Clos du Château de la Maltroye.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroie 1er Cru is clean and precise on the nose, with touches of lemon rind and crushed stone. The palate is taut and fresh, with plenty of lime and citrus fruit and more stony notes developing on the finish. The 2023 is a level up from 2022.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMA more floral-suffused nose offers up vaguely exotic aromas of white peach, lychee and passion fruit along with just sliced citrus hints. I very much like the sense of underlying tension and caressing mouthfeel the barely middle weight flavors display before culminating in a balanced, long and agreeably dry finale. This too could use better depth but the development potential seems clear.Burghound | 90 BHNot much deeper in colour than the village wine but with significantly more fruit weight, still strawberry up front underpinned by a little raspberry, and here also the evidence of some new wood. One new barrel out of four. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

A beautifully layered nose subtly blends notes of poached pear, just sliced apple, spice and a touch of citrus confit. There is an equally beautiful texture to the seductive and caressing medium weight flavors that possess sneaky good length on the balanced finale. This is lovely and while it’s not particularly intense, it remains refreshing and inviting as well as a wine that could be enjoyed on the younger side if desired.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with citrus peel and light floral scents. It’s a little more reductive than other cuvées, but that’s no bad thing. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, building nicely in the mouth with just a hint of peach skin on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPale lemon and lime. There is a touch of citrus with the minor reduction. Firm at the finish which is no bad thing as there is a considerable volume of white orchard fruit which needs to be kept in place. Easy of access once again. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Fantastic depth and length to this wine, showing aromas and flavors of sliced apples, stone, flint,matchstick and white pepper. It’s full-bodied and reserved, with very fine layers of bright fruit and minerals. Tight, structured and compact with a long finish. Already impressive, but best after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSOpulent, creamy and expansive, this white fills the mouth, offering peach, apple, quinine and salty mineral flavors embraced by vanilla and toasty oak notes. There’s a tactile sensation, and this still lacks integration, yet all of the components are there, along with power and length. Best from 2027 through 2042. 3,800 cases made, 1,400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSLatour’s 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of pear, mandarin oil and peach mingled with notes of struck match and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it’s rich and textural, with a sweet, layered core of fruit and an expansive finish. Now bottled under Diam, it should age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPCool, pretty and attractively layered aromas include those of Granny Smith apple, spice, wet stone and a plentitude of citrus elements. There is both more volume and richness to the bigger-bodied flavors that exhibit good power on the balanced, sappy and moderately firm finale. This also could use better depth but that should develop in time.Burghound | 90-93 BH

This is even cooler and more restrained as the nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of mineral reduction, green apple, spice, acacia blossom and a deft touch of wood. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the youthfully austere and even more persistent finish. This too is very classy and a classic Clos de la Mouchère of grace and poise. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 95 BHA fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is another very classy wine. Vertical in feel, the 2023 is super-bright from the outset. White pepper, flowers, mint, sage and pear reinforce that impression. Readers will find an airy, deceptively mid-weight Puligny that possesses remarkable depth.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM

Here too the lightly wooded nose displays a panoply of floral nuances that include rose petal, lilac and acacia blossom with additional notes of just grated zest, spice, and green apple. There is almost painful intensity to the slightly more concentrated and more mineral-driven flavors that conclude in a chiseled, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale that seems to go on and on. The Clos de la Mouchère is always excellent but in 2024, it is genuinely stunning.Burghound | 96 BHMid yellow. There is a little touch of patisserie on the nose, showing the additional breadth of fruit on Henri Boillot’s favourite vineyard. That’s what gives the gourmandise to the wine, says Henri. This seems to have all the aspects with an excellent mineral backbone holding the fruit together. Lime blossom and acacia he finds, from the adjacent trees which flower at the same time. Very fine long finish. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Village is Niellon’s largest cuvée, around 20,000 bottles, representing the entire appellation—10 different climats from 15 parcels. This is quite forward on the nose, with perfumed fresh lime scents intermixed with a touch of apricot. It is very… giving. The palate is actually more complex than the nose: fresh and quite edgy, well-integrated oak, nicely focused with a touch of pepperiness towards the finish. Well worth seeking out.Vinous Media | 90 VM

They were thinking about pulling this plot out but it has come through the wetter conditions of 2024 very well, so they may keep it going. Clean pale lemon. The bouquet is quite reticent. Concnetrated white fruit, plenty of energy here, the fruit well married with the oak, fair length. A little extra here in 2024. Drink from 2029-2033. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Creamy, rich and delicious, the Bâtard-Montrachet from Niellon’s replanted parcel is in good form, with expressive ripe pear and apricot fruit aromas and hints of fresh flowers, butter and spice. The wine has typical Bâtard opulence, but it also has lovely freshness. The length is impressive for young vines, and there is undoubtedly a promising future ahead for this – ideally, cellar for at least 10 years before opening.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2024 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from a single plot, a "baby wine" according to Coutoux, since it is the second vintage from five-year-old vines after the parcel was replanted. This takes time to unfold on the nose, perhaps not quite mustering the mineralité that you find elsewhere due to the youth of the vines. Yet it is well defined and the oak is well integrated. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, a little chalky in texture, a keen thread of acidity that lends edginess with a twist of sour lemon on the finish. Fine, but there will be better to come once the vines mature.Vinous Media | 91 VMA little more colour, slightly biscuity with hidden fruit on the nose. Some tension behind, a little sandalwood, young vines so the lesser concentration is to be expected. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru is very aromatic and generous on the nose, with scents of white flowers, mirabelle and light beeswax aromas that blossom in the glass. The palate is very well balanced, with more body and depth than the Maltroie. Really good mineralité in this Clos Saint-Jean, very persistent in the mouth; this is exactly where the vintage excels in the Côte d’Or. Recommended.Vinous Media | 94 VMPale lemon colour. More biscuit than fruit at first on the nose, though ripe enough. First year for Rebichets replanting. A softer style of white fruit than Chenevottes. A little more depth to the colour, medium length, a little touch of acidity. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Pale lemon colour. The bouquet has a little extra concentration, firm footed fruit. The white fruit blossoms rather more on the palate, delivering an attracting middle weight Chassagne, extending further at the finish. The Chenevottes was a little riper at the harvest, coming in at 12% before chaptalisation.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

There is enough wood to notice on the cool and airy aromas of white peach, Granny Smith apple and mineral reduction. The middle weight plus flavors are borderline painfully intense while seemingly built on a base of stone as the mouthfeel is like rolling tiny rocks around the palate on the massively long, balanced and youthfully austere finale. This overtly powerful and strikingly good bone-dry effort is markedly compact and a wine that I would recommend buying only if you have the patience to allow it at least a decade in a cool cellar. This could well be the Corton-Charlemagne of the vintage.Burghound | 97 BHFresh mid lemon. A fine concentration of fresh stony soil, with a little barrel toast. Much more linear of course, though with adequate flesh on the bones. Definite intensity. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2024 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru had a hefty reduction on the nose that occluded the terroir profile. The palate is rounded, weighty and creamy in texture, though again, like Boillot’s other whites, they feel a little generic and reflect the house style rather than the individual terroirs.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A step above in terms of concentration, Niellon’s Chevalier is always among the highlights from this climat, and the 2024 is an exceptional wine. The initial attack offers aromas of mandarin, green apple and hazelnut with notes of smoke, chalky minerals and spice. There is abundant tension on the palate, dense concentration, and fresh acidity that gives the finish impressive length. The grapes are from 0.22ha up the slope from Montrachet and surrounded by the vines of Domaine Leflaive.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECMid lemon and yellow with a lime touch. The bouquet speaks of its vineyard more than the Bâtard did. Still a little barrel toast. Good grip, a lovely citrus touch to the acidity, barrel toast. Plenty of white fruit though all the way through. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 94 JM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie 1er Cru has a very aromatic and quite floral bouquet, with enticing scents of yellow flower mixed with wild peach and just a hint of acacia in the background. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing texture, a little pithiness coming through, a dash of ginger complementing the dried apricot and orange pith notes. Fine weight on the finish, with more persistence than the Village cru, this should give up to 15 years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 92 VMPale lemon, a little tension on the nose, some waxed and candied citrus, a little biscuit once again, medium weight, with attractive length. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 90 JM