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The most impressive aspect of the Castello della Sala ethos is its ability to reinvent itself. This latest edition of Umbria’s headline white is a true delight. Renzo Cotarella and his team have created an Italian masterpiece that is reminiscent of the great whites of Burgundy. The 2023 Cervaro della Sala opens to an elegantly reductive note of flint or crushed granite before sliding gracefully into silky fruit sensations, breakfast pastry and crème fraîche. It offers carefully balanced richness and textural importance...Part of the Chardonnay does malolactic fermentation, but the Grechetto does not. This gives energy and verve to the final results. Castello della Sala has recently planted more Chardonnay (now totaling 80 hectares) for flexibility in choosing the best clusters. Throughout its many reinventions, this is the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPClassic Burgundian style. On the nose white chocolate, pink grapefruit, lemon zest and white flowers. Full-bodied, it shows weight, vibrancy and tension, with a silky texture and a salted citrus finish. Amazing balance in this vintage, with lemon peel bitterness in the aftertaste adding an extra dimension. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSYouthfully coy, the 2023 Cervaro della Sala blows off an air smoky reduction to reveal depths of crushed yellow apples, sesame seeds, pine shavings and nuances of vanilla custard. This is pure elegance in the glass, as silken textures envelop the palate. A bump of residual acidity maintains energy throughout, even as the 2023 tapers off tannic and potent, with a resonance of mineral-infused apricots. This is a suburb rendition of Cervaro della Sala.Vinous Media | 95 VMA vibrant white, with pleasing buoyancy to the acidity as it carries a finely woven range of poached apricot, toasted hazelnut, passion fruit and persimmon, with accents of vanilla, lime blossoms and mineral. There’s good tension and focus but also a sense of finesse as the profile waltzes across the palate and expands on the lasting, well-spiced finish. Chardonnay and Grechetto. Drink now through 2036. 21,669 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A juicy and savory red with aromas of blackcurrants, fresh sage and rosemary. It’s medium- to full-bodied with creamy tannins and a long and beautiful finish. Shows finesse and polish. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. Needs two or three years to soften, but is already very pretty. Sustainable. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2023 Giusto di Notri is one of the more refined wines of the vintage at Tua Rita. A burst of dark red/purplish fruit, new leather, rose petal, cedar and mocha makes a strong first impression. Silky tannins wrap it all together in style.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

Very few vintages of this legendary Tuscan wine deliver the immediate joy, richness and complexity found in the Tenuta San Guido 2023 Bolgheri Sassicaia. Tasted both before and after its January 2026 bottling, this is a wine that feels uncannily open and generous in its youth, a rare trait for Sassicaia, which is famously inscrutable at this stage. The 2023 vintage was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by a severe outbreak of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing brutal fruit selection and resulting in a 20% reduction in yields. Only the estates willing to make these sacrifices succeeded, and the best wines rank among the most compelling and elusive of recent years.The blend includes 13% to 14% Cabernet Franc alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Franc playing a decisive phenolic role that reinforces elegance, linearity and brightness. Aromas unfold with wild sage, rosemary and dark fruit before moving into crushed stone minerality, rose petal and a finely spiced spectrum of pink peppercorn, nutmeg, anise, cardamom, bergamot and blood orange, joined by a delicate note of mentuccia romana, sweeter and gentler than classic mint. The palate shows beautiful softness framed by chalky tannins and mineral tension. Its acidity shines bright and guarantees long cellar aging potential. The wine remains fluid and flexible in the glass as different facets of the bouquet emerge. Like the legendary 1985, 2023 was a difficult and stressful vintage shaped by a cold winter, yet it stands as proof that great pressure can indeed give birth to diamonds.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPVery cool, complex and pretty aromas of black currants, fresh herbs such as sage and rosemary, with lavender and violet undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with crunchy and layered fruit delivering currant, plum, spice, cedar and bark flavors as well as polished and velvety tannins. A very clear and distinctive Sassicaia with true character of the estate. Drink in two or three years and beyond.James Suckling | 99 JSSassicaia 2023 will divide drinkers. While its quality is without question, it takes the idea of finesse and elegance to another level. In truth, this is more a reflection of the vintage conditions than a winemaking decision – but that’s what all great wineries aim to show in the glass, isn’t it? For some, this will be too light, too floral, and too far removed from ‘classic’ Bolgheri. For others, especially those who have been following this estate for several years, it’s a dream come true; a true-to-life model for the future of Italian reds. Me? I’m on the fence. It almost pales in comparison to the depth of fruit and chewy tannins of 2022, while the 2019 tasted alongside emphasises juiciness and silkiness. Supple, lifted and fragrant, 2023’s pure, crunchy bramble fruits, succulent, sapid mid-palate and prolonged freshness make you think differently...in a very good way. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECThe 2023 Sassicaia is elegant and supremely polished. Dark, ample and mysterious, the 2023 has much to offer once it opens up a bit. Blackberry, gravel, incense and new leather convey tons of somber intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon speaks quite loudly in the 2023, despite the wine’s midweight structure. Tenuta San Guido’s 2023 Sassicaia is one of the wines of the vintage, an accomplishment that is even more impressive given the challenges of the growing season. Early April frost lowered yields in Merlot and Cabernet Franc by about 20%. Rain during flowering and fruit set resulted in loose bunches, perhaps not ideal for production but decidedly positive for air circulation, essential in a year with elevated disease pressure. The 2023 saw as much as 20-25 days on the skins, with the oldest parcels getting the longest vatting times. Malolactic fermentations were intentionally delayed; about 60% of the lots were done in barrel. The 2023 spent five months in used barriques, then 21 months in a combination of 44% new, 40% once-used and 16% twice-used barrels. This is an impressive showing. I can’t wait to see how the 2023 ages.Vinous Media | 97 VMCassis, graphite, lavender and dark exotic spice aromas are just some of the aromas you’ll find on the stunning 2023 Sassiacaia. Smooth, delicious and all about finesse, the velvety palate delivers succulent black currant, raspberry, cassis, vanilla and star anise before a minty finish. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Even in what was a complex vintage due to a challenging growing season, Tenuta San Guido did an amazing job. Drink 2028–2038. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KO

Ornellaia owns 13 hectares of white varieties, and this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from the prime Bellaria vineyard at around 100 metres above sea level on limestone soils. ‘An original expression of this grape variety’, is how Marco Balsimelli describes it. Well balanced and very fresh, it has good body and plenty of energy, with ripe notes of guava, apricot and mango. The oak vinification with batonnage lends a creamy tone and texture but it remains poised throughout, with a sapid, mineral finish.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECMade with Sauvignon Blanc, the 2023 Bolgheri Bianco Ornellaia shows a softer more cushiony profile than recent editions. The Sauvignon Blanc is sourced primarily from the Bellaria vineyard at 130 meters in elevation. Parcel selection played a key role in 2023, with Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia showing more exotic fruit, and the estate choose to emphasize a distinctly Mediterranean expression with riper yellow fruit tones for this wine. Fermentation is carried out with great precision with strict protection from oxygen, followed by time in barrique, with about 30% new French oak, tonneaux and amphorae. The wine ages for 10 months on the fine lees with daily bâtonnage at first, then gradually reduced. This vintage outperforms the 2022 in terms of length and polish, offering notes of white pepper, ginger, lemon peel, exotic flower and spice. This wine is scheduled for release in March 2026.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2023 Ornellaia Bianco, 100% Sauvignon Blanc, is soft, open-knit and ready to go. Scents of orchard fruit, sage, white flowers, mint and white pepper open with some coaxing. In 2023, the Bianco is quite soft and generous in feel. Exotic tropical notes run through the textured, creamy finish.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2023 Tignanello pours a saturated, youthful red/purple hue and is deeply layered and expressive, with pure aromas of black cherry liqueur, fresh blackberry, lavender, forest herbs, polished cedar, and fresh earth. Full-bodied, it floats across the palate with supple, approachable fruit that beautifully balances the structure. A refreshing spine of acidity, refined, even tannins, and a long, seamless finish give the wine both precision and length. Composed of 80% Sangiovese, with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon and increasing amounts of Cabernet Franc (which adds lift and verticality), this is a vintage with the backbone to age for decades while already offering immediate appeal. It’s long, luxurious, and beautifully balanced. Drink 2027-2057.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2023 Tignanello is a classy, polished wine. Soft and open-knit with lovely, forward fruit and bright acids, the 2023 is a total delight. Floral, spice and blood orange overtones meld into a core of red Sangiovese-driven fruit. There’s a touch more Cabernet Franc in this year’s blend. That comes through in the wine’s aromatic presence. The 2023 is a juicy, midweight Tignanello that offers tons of immediacy and sheer appeal. It’s finesse over power.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2023 Gaia & Rey is superb. In fact, it’s one of the finest Gaia & Reys I have tasted. Vibrant and sculpted to the core, the 2023 is all class. Hints of apricot, white flowers, baked apple and chalk open with a bit of coaxing. This really fleshes out on the back end, where super-refined contours pull it all together.Vinous Media | 96 VMAromas of tropical fruit and apple carry over to the elegant palate along with layers of culinary spice and French oak. It’s polished and balanced, with fresh acidity that keeps it lifted. Drink or hold for more complexity. Drink through 2030. Abv: 13% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO