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2017 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts, Burgundy Red

This cuvée, sourced from a 0.75ha parcel of 46-year-old vines completed its malolactic fermentation late, so was a little more backward than the other releases when I tasted it. It may need more time in barrel and bottle, but this is a superb expression of the premier cru, located at the fresher, more scented end of the spectrum. It has fruit intensity from the small berries (millerands) and a chiselled finish.Decanter | 96 DECNoble imperial purple. There is a such a wealth of vibrant heady fruit, which defies simple categorisation, so much more than just dark cherry, too concentrated for floral descriptors though some peony notes are lurking. There is an explosion of fruit at the back of the palate, a little more red than black, an excellent fresh acidity, a very complete wine with as much concentration as one could hope for in 2017. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMCathiard’s emblematic cuvée, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is also a great success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, licorice, spices, dark berries, grilled game and an elegant framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with a broad-shouldered chassis of velvety structuring tannin, considerable concentration and a long, expansive finish. Due to a late malolactic, this was one of the more primary wines in the cellar, but its immense potential is impossible to miss.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is matured in 62% new oak and underwent a slightly later malolactic fermentation than the other cuvées. It has a very pure, detailed bouquet of precise blackberry, briar and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit, displaying more grip and backbone than the Les Suchots, and the bold finish perhaps offering less charm. It will certainly require several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM Firm reduction renders this impossible to fairly assess today. Otherwise there is more size, weight and muscle to the big-bodied and more evidently mineral-driven flavors that are almost painfully intense, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. However, it is pointless to buy this without the express intention to cellar it as it is very structured.Burghound | 92-95 BH

96
DEC
As low as $1,039.00
2017 Emmanuel Rouget Nuits Saint Georges, Burgundy Red

Showing a deeper colour than the other wines in his cellar, as it always seems to do, this serious, well-structured Nuits from Emmanuel Rouget shows bramble and black cherry fruits, some subtle oak spice, vivacious acidity and good underlying grip.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Village, matured in 30% new oak in order to preserve freshness, according to Rouget, has quite a generous bouquet of blueberry and black cherry fruit, the oak nicely integrated. The palate is bright and fresh with violet-tinged blue fruit, almost Vosne-like in style, leading to a silky-smooth, very classy finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThe 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Village exhibits aromas of sweet Morello cherries, cassis, violets and rose petals. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and expressive, with a layered core and fine stony tannins, combining richness of structure, with lightness of touch.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThis is at once more deeply colored and more deeply pitched with its fresh and restrained nose of plum, dark currant, violet and newly turned earth. There is notably better concentration to the muscular and punchy medium-bodied flavors that flash a mild rusticity on the mouth coating though not particularly austere finale. This well-made effort is very Nuits in character and should age well over the mid-term.Burghound | 89-91 BHFrom the northern side of Nuits, in Les Lavières and Argillats. The colour is a rich imperial purple but with a little bit of reduction. More masculine in this vintage, says Emmanuel. Pretty powerful on the nose, but nutty too. Ultra- intense even at the back of the palate, this one has rolled up its sleeves and settled in for a long evening. If you are happy with the power, this could be your wine. Tasted: November 2020.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

92
DEC
As low as $475.00
2017 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey, Burgundy Red

I can’t remember a more appealing sample of the Aux Thorey premier cru at this young stage from Sébastien Cathiard. Made with grapes from a 0.43ha parcel planted in 1953, it has a wonderful combination of sweetness, acidity, structure, and plush black cherry and orange zest flavours.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru is consistent with my previous notes. Raspberry and black cherries, less cassis than noted out of barrel and more Pinoté than expected. The palate is well-balanced with fine-grain tannins. It’s quite Vosne-like thanks to its florality, with a subtle oyster shell-tinged finish. It still requires a couple of years in bottle, but it’s getting there.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey offers up a lovely bouquet of cassis, blackberries, warm spices, licorice and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and an earthier, chewier profile than the Murgers this year—despite the finesse of its tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA still youthfully fresh, pure, cool and restrained nose offers an appealingly spicy array of red currant, cherry and soft earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the energetic medium weight flavors is wonderfully refined while possessing fine complexity on the balanced, lingering and still slightly austere finale. Lovely stuff fashioned in an understated style that is still clearly on the way up though another 5 to 7 years should see it at its full maturity. I would note that this isn’t so backward that it couldn’t be enjoyed now if you don’t feel like waiting!Burghound | 91 BHFullish purple with a lighter rim. Some density of red fruit, not quite so intense, certainly ripe, a slight tarriness from the wood, perhaps because of a late malolactic fermentation. It does give grip to the finish though. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 90-94 JM

95
DEC
As low as $525.00
2017 Meyney, Bordeaux Red
2017 Meyney Bordeaux Red

The 2017 Meyney has turned out beautifully. Dark, pliant and generous in feel, the 2017 possesses striking depth and polish to match its mid-weight personality. Dried cherry, mint, dried flowers, licorice, cedar and tobacco infuse the 2017 with lovely layers of aromatic nuance and complexity. All the elements meld together nicely. Just as it was en primeur, the 2017 is relatively understated for Meyney, but that is not a bad thing at all. Meyney appears to be moving in a very positive direction over the last few years, and that is, of course, great to see.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA terrific effort, the 2017 Meyney is a concentrated, nicely structured wine in the vintage that’s going to have a broad drink window. Lots of black cherry, chocolate, cedarwood, and leafy tobacco notes define the bouquet, followed by a medium-bodied red with a solid spine of acidity, supple tannins, and a great finish. It’s a classic, beautifully done Saint-Estèphe to enjoy over the coming 15 years or so.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDSome quite assertive, ripe dark berries here. The bold, quite rich palate is firm yet fresh with cassis and black-fruit flavors. Lighter, elegant vintage. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSMeyney has had a strong couple of years, and even in this challenging vintage this is a wine that you want to look out for. Attractive baked plum aromatics on the nose, without the concentration of 2016 but with silky, well extracted cassis fruits and attractive spice on the finish. More closed down than it was En Primeur, this is going to need a few years from this point to open up. Drinking Window 2023 - 2036.Decanter | 91 DECMedium to deep garnet-purple, the 2017 Meyney opens a little broody, giving way to red cherries, black berries and stewed tea scents with a waft of dried herbs. Medium-bodied, the palate is chock-full of vibrant black fruits with ripe, grainy tannins and a refreshing kick to the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90+ RPFresh and direct, featuring a pure core of damson plum and cherry fruit, laced with light floral and red tea notes. Subtle chalky minerality gives the finish cut and length, while a pretty perfume lingers. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2021 through 2028. 15,416 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

As low as $40.00
2017 Clinet, Bordeaux Red
2017 Clinet Bordeaux Red

This wine is stacked with tannins and concentrated fruits, with a dense texture. The wine’s future is assured and long term. Drink from 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThis is brimming with raspberry and boysenberry compote flavors, while mouthwatering anise and pain d’épices notes fill in the background. Reveals a flash of ganache, a streak of tar and an echo of bramble through the finish, adding range while the gorgeous fruit holds center stage. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2038. 2,000 cases made. Wine Spectator | 95 WSDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Clinet opens slowly to reveal vibrant red and black fruits: red currants, black cherries, plums and cassis with touches of roses, yeast extract, wood smoke and crushed rocks. Medium-bodied with firm, grainy tannins and a taut, muscular palate of tightly wound fruits and compelling mineral accents, it finishes long with wonderful purity and fragrant earth accents.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2017 Chateau Clinet checks in behind the 2015 and 2016 (and I suspect the 2018), yet it does well in the vintage. Based on 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon brought up in 72% new barrels (the estate has moved to using more 500-liter barrels), representing 80% of the production, its deep purple hue is followed by classic Clinet dark, chocolatey fruit and tobacco notes. This gives way to a medium to full-bodied Pomerol that has firm tannins, solid mid-palate density, and outstanding length. The tannins here will need 4-5 years of bottle age, and I’d lean toward drinking bottles over the following decade. (Drink between 2024-2034)Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDA fresh and fruity Clinet with tangy acidity highlighting the plum and cherry character. Reserved style. Medium body, creamy tannins and a delicious finish. Linear and focused in general. Needs a year or two to calm down. Better after 2022.James Suckling | 93 JS

As low as $140.00
2017 Latour, Bordeaux Red
2017 Latour Bordeaux Red

Ripe and very powerful aromas of black licorice, currants and violets. Full-bodied, dense and flavorful with lots of very new, flashy wood. Sexy and gorgeous. Round and polished tannins. Superb wine for the vintage. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 99 JSA blend of 92.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.8% Merlot, and 0.1% Petit Verdot, the 2017 Latour has a deep garnet-purple color. It sashays out with showy notes of warm cassis, mulberries, and Morello cherries, followed by emerging tertiary hints of unsmoked cigars, rose oil, cardamom, and star anise, with a waft of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly styled and mineral-laced, featuring loads of exotic sparks and velvety tannins, finishing on a lingering anise note. Beautiful! While it’s in a nice place right now, another 2 to 4 years in bottle should allow for even more of this gorgeous, emerging perfume. It will easily cellar for another 30 years beyond that.The Wine Independent | 98 TWIThe 2017 Latour is just starting to open aromatically. Medium in body, with tannins that have begun to soften, the 2017 is super-expressive and inviting today. It’s a charming, relatively accessible young Latour that is all about finesse and understatement. Bright saline notes and lifted floral top notes convey class.Vinous Media | 96 VMA complex, layered, incredibly impressive Latour, the 2017 Château Latour is based on 92.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.8 % Merlot, and a splash of Petite Verdot that spent 16 months in new barrels. It’s medium to full-bodied, has a ripe, round, beautifully balanced mouthfeel, classic notes of sweet red and black fruits, tobacco, graphite, and crushed stone, ultra-fine tannins, and a gorgeous finish. It’s actually much more accessible than I’d imagined a few years ago, and this beauty clearly offers incredible pleasure today, as well as some classic Latour character. It should continue showing well for another 30+ years if well stored.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe just-released 2017 Latour is surprisingly accessible by this estate’s standards, offering up expressive aromas of crème de cassis, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, burning embers and creamy new oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered palate that’s fleshy and complete, with lively acids and a long, vanillin-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

99
JS
As low as $619.00

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