The Togni family’s grand vin from the 2023 vintage is a magical young cabernet sauvignon. As is family tradition here, the wine’s octane is not listed on the label, but I would bet it is below 13.5 percent. The bouquet is quite similar to their 2023 Tanbark Hill, albeit with more depth and purity, as it wafts from the glass in a nascently complex blend of cassis, dark berries, coffee bean, cigar wrapper, a beautiful foundation of Spring Mountain soil, incipient smokiness, a touch of currant leaf and a refined framing of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, seamlessly balanced and rock solid at the core, with great soil signature, firm, beautifully integrated tannins, great grip and a very, very long, impeccably balanced, refined and utterly stunning young finish. This year the wine’s cépages is eighty-two percent cabernet sauvignon, fifteen percent merlot, two percent cabernet franc and one percent petit verdot. All of the varieties were co-fermented and the wine was raised in forty percent new casks this year. This is a simply perfect young cabernet sauvignon. (Drink between 2050-2120)John Gilman | 100 JGThe 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is outrageously beautiful. Graphite, lavender, crushed rocks, menthol and dark spice emerge with great reluctance. Then again, the 2023 was bottled just a few months before this tasting. It’s a vivid, explosive Cabernet that will need at least a few years to be at its most expressive. Poor set lowered yields by about 25%, resulting in an unusually potent wine here. Captivating.Vinous Media | 98 VMA classic Napa red with aromas of red and black currants, bark and dark mushrooms. Medium-bodied with firm and creamy tannins and a fresh finish. Chocolate on the palate. Drinkable now if you decant it, but made for aging.James Suckling | 98 JS
