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A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits that make an appearance just before a mix of brisk acids and tannins creates a more tactile and youthfully clenching expression toward the finale. This leaves the palate aching under the 2016’s structural heft, yet with plenty of primary concentration to balance, as wild savory herbs and earthy mineral tones linger for up to a minute. The potential here is off the charts, but readers will need to be very patient. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a cru selection of old vines that refines for 48 months in large French oak barrels of 33–52 hectoliters.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is the top-shelf wine from Il Poggione, and it’s a must-have bottle for those who collect wines from this celebrated estate. From an icon vintage, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a beauty. It stands at the intersection of intensity, elegance and power. The fruit is shapely and dense with plenty of blackberry and black cherry, and you also get savory touches of campfire ash, tar, licorice, ferrous earth and balsam herb. Honestly, you get it all, including that distinctive Brunello power and abundance that is not easily achieved with such careful balance. The finish is structured, fresh and long, and with more time in the glass, the leathery or savory aromas become more pronounced (as does the alcohol). Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA beam of pure cherry permeates this sleek, elegant red, shaded by floral, mineral, wild herb and orange zest accents. Well-delineated and long, this has the balance, grip and intensity for a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 3,300 cases made, 750 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe estate’s oldest plot, Vigna Paganelli is a 12-hectare vineyard planted in 1964. It boasts a rich diversity of old Sangiovese clones which are used for newer plantings. Spiced plum, cured leather and a roll-call of marjoram, tarragon and basil beckon generously. Though hefty in size, this carries its girth with charming ease. There is a richness and sweetness to the fruit, while ripe, granular tannins provide a framework. A mineral edge emerges underneath all the layers. It will be hard to resist young, but I suspect intricate details will become more apparent in time. Drinking Window 2023 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DECCedar, forest floor and new leather aromas come to the forefront along with violet and dried botanical herbs. Full-bodied and enveloping, the savory palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, licorice and white pepper framed in velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe freshness and depth are impressive, with floral, dark-berry and cherry character that follows through to a full body with chewy tannins that are polished and solid. Flavorful at the end. Needs time to soften. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 94 JS

Deep ruby-colored with a light purple tinge, the 2016 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Madonna Del Piano takes on another gear with its rich perfume unfolding with lavender, black cherry, cassis, fresh leather, licorice, fresh soil, and sage. The wine is full-bodied, with a ripe velveteen texture, while maintaining freshness, and it is elegantly rounded through the mid-palate, with notes of black plum, Earl Grey, scorched earth, and tea leaf. This seems to be moving at a glacial pace in its evolution and certainly warrants at least a few more years in cellar. Drink 2026-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThis is heavenly on the nose with fresh flowers such as violet and cherries with undertones of freshly shaved sandalwood. It’s full-bodied with very fine tannins that are focused and intense with a polished nature. This is a complete wine that impresses at every level. Give it at least five to six years to come together and resolve the tannin structure. Better after 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSExpressive yet complex, this red is already revealing tertiary hints of truffle, fading roses and spice. Features cherry, raspberry, iron, eucalyptus and anise flavors allied to a firm, compact structure. Balanced and long, with fresh fruit, spice and mineral accents lingering on the endless finish. Best from 2025 through 2045. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe Valdicava 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano impresses for its intensity, its balance and its freshness. The wine is medium to full-bodied with a good amount of fruit weight and power that is offset by acidity and the lifted, vibrant quality of the bouquet. If balance is the objective, this wine meets it goals, although like with many of its peers, you certainly won’t miss the deep inner power of this determined Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is totally captivating: deep, dark and viral. It smolders up from the glass, with a thrilling mix of cherries and plums complemented by notes of black tea, balsam herbs and ashen stone. With each return to the glass, this seems to expand further, adding nuances of smoke and animal musk. The 2016 is packed full of energy but also youthful tension, showing the radiance of the vintage with its citrus-tinged fruits and depths of minerality. Through it all, energizing acidity maintains harmony, just as fine tannins slowly saturate, resulting in a long finish that resonates on licorice and purple-tinged inner florals. The 2016 is one of the most balanced, yet also prettiest, expressions that I have ever witnessed from Valdicava’s Madonna del Piano.Vinous Media | 96 VM