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Disgorged with a dosage of 10 grams per liter—considerably higher than the four to five grams at which more recent releases of this cuvée are finished—the 1996 Dom Ruinart Rosé opens with a bouquet of red berries, blood orange, cherry plum and burnt buttered toast, mingling with notes of roasted coffee bean and walnut with a faint hint of cognac and earthy undertones. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, taut and vinous, with incisive acidity and a cut that exemplifies the vintage’s characteristically low pH, culminating in a long, perfumed finish. While it may not possess the seamless harmony of its contemporary counterparts, this wine is woven from a more old-fashioned cloth and is best savored at the close of a meal. It comprises 83% Chardonnay and 17% Pinot Noir vinified as a red wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPRich and meaty, offering clove and berry flavors and a firm, chalky structure. Seems a bit rigid and closed now, but it’s certainly concentrated and long. Best from 2011 through 2030.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

From vines planted in 1962, the single-vineyard Jacquesson 2004 Extra Brut Avize Champ Cain leads with an utterly remarkable nose. A greenhouse-like profusion of leafing and flowering things is imposed over sea breeze, with jasmine; musky narcissus; nose-prickling spice as if from some exotic orchid; iodine-tinged toasted shrimp shells; and toasted grain all pungently present and anticipating the elusive complexity delivered on a caressingly polished yet consummately refreshing and almost ethereally delicate palate. Over time, the sense of creaminess and the refinement of bubbles became more evident, along with a contrasting impression of enhanced piquancy, suggesting hops and lentil sprouts, all in the context of remarkable poise and transparency to nuance. The endlessly fascinating finish remains infectiously juicy and subtly yet mouthwateringly saline. Lucky owners should plan to follow bottles for at least a decade. (And at around 10,000 bottles – twice the volume of the corresponding Corne Bautray and four times that of the Vauzelle Terme – there is at least a better chance you can get hold of some. I’m told, though, that only 118 bottles were allocated for the U.S., at least initially, which gives you an idea how regrettably few will have been shipped here of the other two Jacquesson single-vineyard gems.)Possessed of vines in a who’s-who of disparate Champagne villages supplemented by purchased fruit from a few equally renowned communes in which they do not have holdings, Laurent and Jean-Herve Chiquet have – particularly over the past decade – led their already successful house along some unusual not to mention unusually successful paths. Virtually all of their wines are bone-dry (and labeled “Extra Brut”) yet come off as admirably balanced, following cask fermentation and aging with malo-lactic transformation, and long stays in bottle pre-disgorgement. In lieu of a conventional non-vintage blend, there is a wine sequentially numbered (allegedly to coincide with the totality of cuvees in Jacquesson history), and dominated by as well as designed to express the character of a single vintage. The estate’s upper-tier (and alas, for those of us on any kind of budget, that’s spelled with a capital “U”) now features a trio of highly limited, vineyard-designated bottlings whose recently disgorged instantiations are already about as complex as young Champagne can be. I did not visit with the Chiquet brothers this year, and shall look forward to doing so – and to reporting on a wider range of their wines – next year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2004 Avize-Champ Gain comes across as intense and vertical in style, with plenty of mineral and savory notes pushed forward. With time in the glass, the fruit emerges, but only with great reluctance. Like all the 2004s, the Avize-Champ Gain has gone into a shell from which it will eventually emerge, but its going to take a few years.Vinous Media | 95+ VM(Jacquesson Brut - Avize Champ Cain Villages White) An ultra-elegant, pure and beautifully layered nose features notes of white flowers, green apple, spice and soft yeast nuances. The cool, pure and equally refined middle weight flavors are understated and impressively complex while being supported by a super fine mousse that is at once crisp yet delicate, all wrapped in a balanced and seriously long finish. This is so harmonious that it could easily be enjoyed now though if it was in my cellar I would hold it for another 3 to 4 years. In a word, terrific. (Drink starting 2016).Burghound | 95 BH

(Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” Rosé Brut Millésime (Reims)) It has been four years since I last opened a bottle of the 2006 Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” Rosé and the wine has aged as beautifully as one would imagine. The bouquet now is pure, precise and beautifully evolved, offering up a complex nose of cherries, sweet cranberries, a fine base of chalky minerality, cinnamon stick, clove, a touch of orange peel and a gentle topnote of caraway seed. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely sense of weightless vinosity, a fine core and mineral drive, refined mousse, zesty acids and lovely balance and grip on the long and seamlessly energetic finish. Like so many other vintage Champagnes from 2006, the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé is now at a gorgeous place in its evolution and is drinking to perfection. (Drink between 2020-2045).John Gilman | 96 JGA 15% addition of still red pinot to the Blanc de Blancs Comtes works well in that the DNA of the white version is familiar to those fans out there, but is delivered with a seductive twist. Aromas of wild cherries, rose water, cherries and citrus lead to a palate with fresh red cherry. Bold and rich, this will develop handy savoriness with age. Best from 2020.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé is at once rich and refined, a simply fabulous Champagne Rosè I won’t soon forget. Intensely perfumed, with the Pinot Noir-derived red berry and cranberry flavors that are not just concentrated, but also remarkably pure. It is one of the better Rosé bubbles I have had in the last year.Vinous Media | 96 VMA lovely Champagne, offering a rich and expressive palate of dried strawberry and white peach fruit, with toasted hazelnut, pastry, candied ginger and lemon curd flavors set in a fine and elegant frame. Long and creamy on the satiny finish. Drink now through 2031. 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe lively mousse carries this sophisticated wine, which is the perfect partner to the Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. Everything is in its place, well integrated and with great precision. This trends to the sweeter side of Brut but with bottle age this has brought fine secondary flavors that are ripe and rich. The wine will age further, drink until 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEBright oeil de perdrix color. This is quite aromatically restrained with cool and almost delicate aromas of various red berries, in particular raspberry and strawberry, that are trimmed in pretty floral and yeast nuances. The heightened sense of refinement continues onto the utterly delicious and ultra-refreshing flavors that are supported by an admirably fine mousse, all wrapped in a clean, dry, complex and beautifully long finale that is attractively dry but not austere. I very much like the style as well as the delivery as it allows this beauty to be enjoyed now or easily held for years to come.Burghound | 93 BHTaittinger's 2006 Comtes de Champagne Rosé blends Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with 16% red wine, mainly from Bouzy. Lovely, pure and fresh on the nose, with spicy sweet cherry aromas and red berry flavors, this is a rich and potent, full-bodied and firmly structured Rosé with nice purity and freshness. The finish reveals a sweet intensity and good length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThis pale pink rosé layers scents of cider apples, fresh strawberries and cherries over the soft acidity of 2006. It feels juicy and finely integrated, the structure firm, holding the wine through a clean finish. This should develop well over the next few years. Kobrand, Purchase, NYWine & Spirits | 91 W&S

The same blend as the blanc, with the addition of 14% Bouzy rouge, the rose’ is more reductive, finer and more linear (as is often the way with assemblage rosé, the red wine component dampens the subtle autolytic character a little). The bouquet is similar to the La Grande Dame blanc 2008, although the palate is finer, more youthful than its sibling. Strawberry notes sit on top of lime citrus, the wine evolves a biscuit aroma as it sits in the glass. A deep intensity lurking under the surface, and a hint of future complexity. This is one of those rare rosé Champagnes that I would age! Will drink well from 2023-2033. Tasted Feb 2019.Jasper Morris | 96 JMShowing impressive freshness for its age, the 2008 vintage of Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame prestige rosé was clearly built for the long haul. Tasted in jeroboam, it’s a complex and gastronimic wine, with a pretty nose of creamy red berries, plus delicate toastiness and some mushroomy evolution. The high percentage of Pinot Noir – 92% including 14% red wine from the Clos Colin vineyard in Bouzy – contributes structure and depth to the smooth palate, bouyed by uplifting acidity. Long persistent finish with elegant strawberry notes. (Drink between 2024 - 2035)Decanter | 95 DECThere’s a racy tension here, with vivid acidity and an underlying streak of minerality, yet this is elegant overall, with a finely detailed mousse and well-meshed flavors of ripe raspberry, nectarine, Earl Grey tea and biscuit. Offers a long, chalk-tinged finish. Disgorged August 2016. Drink now through 2030.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2008 Brut Rosé La Grande Dame is also showing well, wafting from the glass with notes of red berries, warm spices, toasted brioche and citrus rind. Full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s a vinous, muscular wine like its white sibling, with a lively spine of acidity and delicately phenolic back-end grip.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

This has a lovely copper color with aromas of cloves, spiced apples, raspberries, gingerbread and pastries. Delicious yeasty and spicy undertones. Excellent density and focus, with fine and firm bubbles, yet it’s light on its feet and so fresh. Long, chalky and salty at the end. Chardonnay and pinot noir. 3.8g/L dosage. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2012 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon offers up hints of red berry fruit, ginger, spice, rosewater, mint and crushed flowers. There is a feeling of classic austerity that runs through the 2012. I would prefer to cellar this for at least a few years, as it is quite reticent at this stage. Chalk, mint, white pepper and bright saline accents linger on the pointed finish. Dosage is 3.8 grams per liter. Disgorged: first trimester 2023.Vinous Media | 96 VMElisabeth Salmon 2012 shows all the signs of being a true classic for Billecart-Salmon, beautifully balanced between the most alluring Pinot aromatics – black cherry juice, peach melba and fresh raspberry – and an engine of pure, persistent Chardonnay energy of bright clementine and zesty length, all lifted with subtle details of allspice, rose petal and nougat and delivered on an effortlessly silky mousse. Open for business, yet without the showiness that the wines of this vintage can sometimes display, it’s a rosé of assured refinement and quiet intensity that seems set for a long future. 55% Chardonnay from Chouilly, Avize, Cramant and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger with 45% Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Ambonnay, with 8.3% red wine addition from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. 2.9% fermented in barrel, and released after 115 months on lees with a dosage of 3.8g/L.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2013 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is an exceptional follow-up to the 2012. Naturally, the 2013 offers a bit more tension, cut and drive, all signatures of this late-ripening vintage. Chalk, slate, crushed rocks, citrus confit and hazelnut all race across the palate as the 2013 sizzles with tension from start to finish. This is still a baby. Give it time. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2024.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis blanc de blancs is very pure and fresh, showing white flowers, light hazelnuts, peaches and grapefruit on the nose, with a hint of oyster shells. It’s sleek and chalky on the palate, linear and racy, with very fine bubbles and a bright acidic backbone. 100% stainless steel vinification. Chardonnay from Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and some Oiry. 4 g/L dosage. Disgorged January 2024. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2013 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is much more exuberant than the 2012, even though on the surface, that does not exactly align with the respective vintages. The decision to use a bit more new oak, more still red wine and a touch higher dosage to soften the natural austerity of the year paid off handsomely. Rose petal, blood orange, spice and kirsch confer a decidedly exotic flair. The ample, substantial finish is striking. Dosage is 4.4 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2024.Vinous Media | 97 VMVery fragrant wildflower honey, citrus, sliced apple, nutmeg and pastry aromas. It’s beautifully fresh and saline on the palate, with fantastic concentration, but in a delicate, silky way. Long, elegant and chalky finish. 53% pinot noir (Ay, Mareuil-sur-Ay (9%) and Bouzy) and 47% chardonnay (Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger). 4.4 g/L dosage. Disgorged January 2024. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS