Wine Ratings

wines

The 2018 Des Fougères Clos Montesquieu is terrific. Black cherry, espresso, licorice, dried flowers, mocha, blood orange, gravel and baking spices open gradually in the glass. More than anything else, I admire the wine’s persistence and overall balance. Clos Montesquieu is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGClove and chili to the dark-berry and pine-needle undertones. It’s medium-bodied with a solid core of ripe, fine tannins and dark fruit. Drinkable now, but better in 2022.James Suckling | 91 JSA blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon brought up in 20% new oak, the 2018 Château Des Fougères Clos Montesquieu has a pretty, incredibly floral perfume of blue fruits, mulberries, leafy herbs, cedar, and rose petals. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium-bodied, has a lively thread of acidity, light tannins, and solid length. It’s one of those wines that grows on you with time in the glass and shines more for its finesse and elegance than power. It’s going to benefit from 2-4 years in the cellar and should keep for a decade. (Drink between 2023-2033)Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

Shimmering ruby. Powerful blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and violet. Well-concentrated and broad in the mouth, offering bitter cherry and dark berry flavors enlivened by a snap of cracked pepper. Slowly building tannins frame the finish, which lingers with very good, dark-fruit-driven persistence.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe light tannins are beautifully textured and encase vivid raspberry and currant flavors matched with woodsy spice, licorice and floral details. Undertones of mineral and spice sail through the tangy finish. Drink now through 2026. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSFull blackberry fruit, generous body and lively acidity make this Moulin-à-Vent easy to enjoy, and the well drafted balance of discreet tannins and mineral acidity at the finish provides very satisfying harmony. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

The white 2019 Peñalba López Vino Blanco is still sold as Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, as it’s a blend of Albillo Mayor, Albillo Real, Viura and Chardonnay; but it’s a full-fledged Ribera del Duero otherwise, as it was produced with grapes from their estate vineyards in the Finca Torremilanos. Like all of their wines, it’s certified organic and biodynamic. It fermented and matured in oak barrels for 17 months, a much longer élevage than before. It has moderate alcohol and very good acidity coupled with some creamy hints, white flowers, pollen and spices. It was bottled without added sulfites, which gives it a somewhat wild profile, and it has character and something intriguing about it, with a tasty palate, long and tasty. 8,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Matured for one year in barrel and six months in tank, the 2019 Montagny 1er Cru delivers aromas of pear, peach and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and charming, with a satiny attack and mouthwatering acids, it’s the most open-knit, giving white in the cellar, and it’s drinking well out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPPurchased fruit, blended from two sites - L’Épaule and Creux de Beauchamp - planted with old vines. Both vineyards are densely planted and propagated using massale selection, to give super-ripe grapes with aromas of apple and just a bit of spice. A long maturation on the lees gives this wine a density and supple texture that is truly appealing. Drinking Window 2021 - 2029.Decanter | 90 DEC

An alluring array of ripe red-berry and plum aromas with a floral, violet-like edge and appealing oak influence, too. The palate has a very plush, open feel with medium body and a fresh, juicy finish. Poached red-berry finish. So charming. Discreetly brilliant blending at work here. A blend of malbec 75% bonarda 19% and petit verdot 6%. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe subtle, balanced and elegant 2019 DV Catena Tinto Histórico was produced with a blend of 75% Malbec, 19% Bonarda and 6% Petit Verdot, and each grape seems to contribute nicely to the blend, making it balanced, harmonious and complex and especially very likeable and drinkable. It has moderate alcohol, round tannins and a lively and fresh mouthfeel. 117,600 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RPA blend of 75% Malbec, 19% Bonarda, and 6% Petit Verdot from different terroirs – Valle de Uco, Luján de Cuyo and Rivadavia – aged for 12 months in barrels used in varying amounts in different locations, this is a red that evokes the profile of another time, hence the name. The nose presents sweet and sour cherry and plum followed, by an indulgent expression and fleshy mouthfeel wrapped in a fresh coating. The tannins come out at the end, tightening things up without going too far. For classic tastes.Vinous Media | 91 VM

A full-bodied, richly textured example thanks to the richer soils on the estate’s southern borders. You can expect attractive aromas of violets, herbs and red cherries. There’s a sumptuous veil of fine-grained tannins that coat the mouth and add sinew and a sense of purpose on the medium-length finish. If you were feeling intrepid, you could approach this now with a decent hunk of meat, but leave it for a couple of years to enjoy its evolution of flavor and tannin.Vinous Media | 91 VMExuberant, offering juicy cherry, blood orange and fresh herb accents, with spice, green tea and dried lavender notes on a supple, vibrant frame. Drink now through 2035. 1,800 cases made, 448 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis is on the dense, rich side by Pinot standards, but is balanced and food friendly. It leads with supple black cherry, plum, chocolate, medicinal herbs, black pepper and warm tarmac aromas. A zing of acidity buoys the succulent fruit. Spicy tannins keep a firm grip right to the finish. Drink now with protein until 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

The entry-level red 2019 Las Cabañuelas is a surprise. They looked for freshness through blending different vineyards. It’s 13.5% alcohol, aromatic, floral and expressive with some herbal hints. This has more tannin than the 2018, and the tannic structure is quite serious; there’s also vibrant acidity and a long, tasty, almost salty finish. This is a bargain; it really over-delivers. 7,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2019 Noaillac retains the superb bouquet from barrel, featuring blackberry and bilberry fruit, ripe and generous, while maintaining fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. Classic in style, and a little fleshier than before, with black pepper and cedar on the finish. An excellent Noaillac.Vinous Media | 91 VMSweet berries and plums with some rose-petal and stem undertones. Full-bodied with round tannins and delicious fruit, with a light vanilla undertone at the end. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 91 JSThe 2019 Noaillac is showing better than I perceived shortly after bottling. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of minty red berries, cassis, pencil shavings and loamy soil, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and elegant, with an attractive core of fruit, refined tannins and a penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Poitevin has a perfumed, floral bouquet with more red fruit than I observed from barrel, showing fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very cohesive and harmonious. There’s just a touch of graphite on the finish. Stylish, top-notch Poitevin.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2019 Poitevin is performing better than it did when I tasted it earlier this year, when I suspect it was still shut down after bottling. Opening in the glass with attractive aromas of orange zest, sweet red berries, petals and spices, it’s medium-bodied, lively and elegant, with lovely purity of fruit and nicely integrated structure.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The juicy and chewy unoaked red 2019 Señorío de P. Peciña Cosecha Tinto has bright ripe fruit and an earthy touch, a medium body and soft tannins that give it a supple texture. It’s a blend of Tempranillo with 3% Garnacha and 2% Graciano fermented with indigenous yeasts and kept in tank until bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP(Rioja “Cosecha”- Bodegas Señorío Pedro Peciña (Rioja Alta)) The 2019 Rioja “Cosecha” from Bodegas Peciña is a lovely wine, with plenty of black fruit informing both the nose and the palate. The bouquet is bright and jumps from the glass in a mix of black cherries, dark berries, cigar smoke, just a touch of Rioja spice tones and a good base of soil. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied and tangy, with a fine core of ripe fruit, good focus and grip, moderate tannins and a long, well-balanced finish. This is still a young wine, but it is eminently drinkable already and will only get better with a bit of bottle age. This augurs extremely well for the Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas we will see down the road from the 2019 vintage, as this wine is really excellent for its level! (Drink between 2021-2040)John Gilman | 90 JG

Blackberries, cherries, sesame and salted-chocolate notes. Peach stones, too. It’s medium-bodied with silky, creamy tannins. So juicy and pure. 88% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Delicious now.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2019 Les Plantes is the new, young-vines wine from Durfort-Vivens. It offers notable depth to match its creamy, succulent personality. Drink this over the next few years, while the dark red fruit remains vibrant. There’s so much character here.Vinous Media | 91 VMVery bright and bursting through on the nose which shows a soft perfume and red summer fruit aromas. Wow - juicy, bright and energetic. Not massive in structure, but clear summer berry fruit, lift and verve. Measured extraction achieves soft tannins, fruit pulp and bright juice. Lively and easy to drink. From young vines and 2019 is the first vintage.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a less flamboyant bouquet than its peers. This feels more reserved and flinty, though very nicely defined and focused. The palate is well balanced, with the weight and density I look for in a Vaillon, and a little spicier than the Vosgros. A touch of lemongrass and a hint of green olive appear toward the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 91 VMAromas of peach, apricot, honey, white flowers and iodine preface the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming wine that’s the most demonstrative premier cru in the cellar this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Plenty of berries, walnuts and light dried tobacco and herbs. Medium body, lightly chewy tannins and a flavorful finish.James Suckling | 91-92 JSDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 Marjosse has a come-hither nose of kirsch, stewed black cherries and warm plums with hints of spice cake, wilted roses, oolong tea and Sichuan pepper. The medium-bodied palate is plushy textured with bags of scrumptious black and red fruits and a lively backbone, finishing fragrant.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPA meaty tone here too with lots of fresh, ripe cherry aromas. . 88% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc. Dangerously soft and smooth on the palate, silky tannins with a lovely immediate deep flavour on the palate. This is more subtle, less immediately juicy but has real charm and good depth. You feel the flavours linger on the tongue with a perfumed, floral aspect to them. This is delicate but driving with good presence and still superb freshness. An elegance to it as well. Lovely. Good mouthwatering acidity, still on the light side, well balanced and enjoyable.Decanter | 90 DECI expressed reservations towards Pierre Lurton’s 2019 Marjosse in my en primeur report earlier this year and as a result, a second sample was shipped to me. This was so much better. The aromatics are far more controlled and focused with the same black cherries and boysenberry without the shroud of alcohol. The palate is opulent and generous, but much more detailed compared to the first sample and demonstrating much more purity on the finish. This is much more in line with my expectations and I am happy to upgrade my score.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a crisp bouquet with crushed rock mixed with touches of dried flowers and a light sea spray note - classic Chablis really. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry. Touches of dried honey and chamomile, but underneath it all is a fine mineral spine and a decent, quite Les Preuses-like finish. Fine. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.Vinous Media | 91 VMThough ripe, offering aromas and flavors of lemon cake, melon and white flowers, there’s also a stony, mineral element underneath this balanced white, which ends with a light chalky sensation. Drink now through 2028. 712 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Fresh citrus and tropical fruit aromas with sweet spices. Good delineation of tangy citrus and fleshy peach on the palate. (Drink between 2021-2026)Decanter | 91 DECLime, sliced-apple and stone aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied. Attractive fruit and freshness at the end.James Suckling | 91-92 JSThe 2020 Ferran Blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon, weighing in at around 13% alcohol. It skips out of the glass with cheery notes of fresh pineapple, white peaches and lemon tart, plus touches of lime leaves and grapefruit peel. The light to medium-bodied palate is elegantly styled and refreshing, delivery bags of bright citrusy flavors and a chalky finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

This has aromas of orange peel, plums, raspberries, wild strawberries, violets and tobacco leaves. Excellent freshness with lightly bitter citrus and herb notes lifting the wild berry fruit, supported by fine tannins. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS(Godello “Pagos del Galir”- Virgen del Galir) The 2020 Godello “Pagos del Galir” bottling from Cuné’s Virgen del Galir property is lovely this year. As I have mentioned in the past, this wine hails from the single vineyard of A Malosa, with the wine fermented and raised in stainless steel tanks. The 2020 is fairly ripe, coming in at fourteen percent octane this year, but impressively fresh and vibrant on both the nose and palate,. The bouquet offers up a refined blend of lemon, pear, a bit of raw almond, stony minerality, citrus blossoms and just a whisper of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a superb core, lovely soil signature and grip, sound framing acids and a long, well-balanced and quite wide open finish. Like many 2020 whites, this does not have a ton of acidity, but plenty to carry it over the next ten to twelve years. (Drink between 2022-2035)John Gilman | 92 JGThe white 2020 Pagos del Galir A Malosa Godello was produced with grapes from a large vineyard (21 hectares!) planted over four years after purchasing over 100 small plots from local growers. So, it has different soils, expositions and altitudes. In 2020 they used the grapes from the lower and middle parts, the oldest plantings on slate soils fermented in stainless steel, barrels (500 and 600 liters) and oak foudres and then matured in foudres and barrels for seven months. 2020 saw a very early harvest with higher yields than 2019, resulting in a wine with 13.5% alcohol and 6.5 grams of acidity. They have seen that small barrels don’t work in the region and have moved to larger sizes, all from French oak. The nose has a Burgundian feeling to it, spicy and with a toasty twist. The oak is still there, so it might need more time to get that creaminess integrated, but it’s very clean and of high quality. There is great purity, definition and precision here. The wine is elegant and subtle, with a long, dry and tasty finish. It has good acidity, one of the challenges with Godello. 19,000 bottles and 300 magnums were produced. It was bottled in May 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RPLight, vivid yellow. Fresh, mineral-tinged citrus and orchard fruits and a powerful floral quality on the perfumed nose. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering lively Meyer lemon, pear and honeysuckle flavors that deepen through the back half. A dusty mineral flourish adds firm cut to the persistent finish, which features clinging citrus fruit and floral notes.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The entry-level red 2020 Sierra de Toloño was produced with Tempranillo from Rivas de Tereso, fresh and energetic, representing the high-altitude vineyards produced in a simple way. It has 13.5% alcohol and a medium body with good freshness, clean berry flavors, vibrant acidity and fine tannins. 35,000 bottles produced, the largest production by far. It was bottled in July 2021 after eight months in neutral barrels.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

With forward aromas of ripe apple, acacia flowers and spice, this delicate, elegant wine exhibits admirable balance and finesse. Yet, there is enough substance and structure to draw it out to a lingering finish, although the texture is creamy rather than crisp. Heitz has nearly a half-hectare in La Barre, in stony soils over a slab of pure limestone just up the slope from Antoine Jobard. A very accomplished village-level Meursault.Decanter | 93 DECA hint of smoke character lurks in the background of the aromas of freshly sliced apple, hazelnut, acacia blossom and a touch of spiced pear. The succulent and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors possess fine richness as well as mid-palate density while exhibiting very fine depth and persistence for a villages-level wine. Worth checking out.Burghound | 90 BH

Purchased grapes, picked on 28th August. Mid lemon yellow, clearly a riper bouquet, slightly pungent even, the reduction showing less strongly gunflint, a bit more vegetal maybe. Good flesh on the bones, and I like the way this follows through. Some pears. Not really in place but I suspect may have greater potential than today’s showing. Tasted: October 2021.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

An intense, focused white, with crushed stone and chalk dust framing green apple, lemon and greengage flavors. Balanced and long, with a steely finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,750 cases made, 175 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSNice density and concentration on the palate, with green apple acidity underneath. Suspect this will be a good Vaudevey, but being a tank sample will need to be re-tasted in bottle.Decanter | 91 DECAnother typical lemon and lime colour. Pleasing and perfumed nose with some steel behind, plus something of the grassy character of this vineyard. A lemon infusion to bring up the finish. Tasted: July 2021.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

Graphite, blackberry and plum aromas and flavors highlight this juicy red, which is balanced and plushly textured, with just the slightest hint of oak. Drink now through 2025. 18,000 cases made, 8,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2020 Meursault Les Tillets has a light white flower and linen scented nose, quite Zen-like at first but gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant with a touch of spice on the finish. Very fine, though maybe it just needs a little more mineralité.Vinous Media | 90 VMA cool, pure and restrained nose reflects airy and elegant notes of acacia, green apple, anise and a whiff of citrus rind. There is a beguiling sense of underlying tension to the detailed and mineral-inflected flavors that culminate in an attractively dry, clean and lingering finale. This is fine Meursault villages with the innate finesse of Tillets on display.Burghound | 90 BH

Aromas of stone fruits, citrus zest, toasted nuts and smoke introduce the 2020 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively wine that’s bright and mineral, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA background hint of smoke is present on the cool and fresh citrus-suffused aromas of mostly apple and pear that exhibit a floral top note. The moderately voluminous medium-bodied flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel while exuding a subtle bead of minerality on the dry, lemony and sneaky long finale. This too could easily be enjoyed after only 2 to 3 years of bottle aging.Burghound | 90 BH

Matured with 20% new oak the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a high-toned and expressive bouquet with white flowers and a touch of tangerine. The palate is well balanced with a finely tuned opening, lemon verbena and apricot, with a pretty, quite floral finish. This is quite classy for a Chassagne Village.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2020 Meursault Le Tesson wafts from the glass with aromas of white currants, ginger, lime, spring flowers and nutmeg, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and tensile palate that’s taut and racy, concluding with a bright, precise finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPAn exuberantly floral-suffused nose is more elegant still with its aromas of poached pear, spiced apple and citrus confit. There is excellent punch to the beautifully delineated medium-bodied flavors that display outstanding length on the sneaky long finish that is both stylish and very classy. Meursault villages wines rarely get much better than this and it too is strongly recommended.Burghound | 91-93 BH