Wine Ratings

wines

Blackberry, lightly toasted oak and cedar on the nose. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long silky finish. Needs time to open.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

For many years now I have felt that Alex Moreau produces the very finest example of Chassagne-Montrachet villages in the entire commune and his 2022 is once again, an outstanding bottle of wine. The bouquet is deep, precise and complex, wafting from the glass in a refined blend of apple, pear, a touch of almond, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, vanillin oak and a topnote of orange blossoms. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a beautiful core of fruit, excellent soil signature and grip, a fine spine of acidity and a long, well balanced and youthful finish. Like many of the best 2022 white Burgundies, this wine is already quite tasty, but it will be an even better drink if given three or four years’ worth of bottle age to allow it to fully blossom. Fine juice. (Drink between 2025-2050)John Gilman | 92 JGAn even lemon and lime colour. Energy on the nose, not yet so much detail. The palate delivers its usual resounding success, a mass of pure white fruit which builds in intensity to the back and finishes with the lightest of toasty notes which is complementary. Excellent length. Not only is this really good, there are 100 barrels of it! Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMMoreau’s production has diminished to the extent that space is no longer a constraint, meaning that he can afford the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc a longer élevage on the lees than was hitherto the case. The wine is shaping up nicely, revealing aromas of pear, green apple, white flowers and toasted nuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and attractively complete palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a very composed bouquet with yellow plum, fresh pear and light lemon verbena scents that gain momentum in the glass. The well-balanced palate is harmonious and focused, with a keen line of acidity and a dab of orange rind and peach skin on the finish. A delight.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMSmoke and petrol nuances add breadth to the aromas of rosemary oil, pear and soil tones. There is impressive volume to the dense and seductively textured medium weight flavors thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract that imparts a sappy quality to the lingering, powerful and balanced finale. This is noticeably less refined, indeed it’s mildly rustic, but offers excellent quality for its level. Recommended.Burghound | 89-92 BH

A standout this year is the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chênes, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless wine evocative of pear, fresh mint, white flowers and hazelnuts. Lively and concentrated, it concludes with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe soil is clay-limestone with sand. Enough crop to make separately. Pale colour, just a little more oak, a slightly sappy green note to it. Tense and dense, but as yet rather ungiving. I think this should unwind later on and should be a long keeper.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Always the last plot to be picked of any vintage, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos des Murées 1er Cru has more reduction on the nose at the moment. The palate is well balanced and quite powerful with a fine bead of acidity, slightly honeyed fruit notes and a little viscosity toward the finish. This will be attractive in its youth, though I believe other cuvées will have more longevity.Vinous Media | 90 VMA cool and airy nose is very fresh with its aromas of just sliced apple, pear and floral nuances. The medium weight flavors are not quite as dense but they’re finer with more evident minerality on the lingering and balanced finale that could also use more depth. I would add that the Clos des Murées is often mildly exotic but such is not the case in 2023.Burghound | 90 BH

Broad and densely textured, with flavors of peach and apple, but mostly vanilla and lanolin from the oak. This is less expressive and focused than its peers yet shows staying power, echoing the oak spice on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2037. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSPale in colour with a green tint. The Vaillons has kept its fresh kimmeridgian nose, though the palate is softer and fleshier, in white fruit, than a Chablis of the past. A little lick of iodine on the stones to finish. This wine has retained some tension, without recourse to acidification, because the malolactic was partially blocked. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JMThe 2023 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru, which did not complete malolactic fermentation to retain acidity, has a vivacious, flinty nose that leaps from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a steely opening. Seductive lemon thyme and orange pith notes come through on the mid-palate, with a dab of ginger that enlivens the finish. The 2023 is very fine.Vinous Media | 90 VMVague whiffs of the exotic and a phenolic hint lurk in the background of the aromas of pear, citrus rind and discreet spice nuances. There is both more volume and refinement to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess better depth on the equally lightly austere finish that offers a bit more persistence.Burghound | 90 BH

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes includes two parcels that were candidates for Premier Cru but denied as they were once quarries. Don’t ask me…ask the INAO! Tangibly, this has more salinity on the nose and that comes through on the palate, harmonious and poised, lightly spiced with a hint of tropical fruit on the finish. What a lovely Pouilly-Fuissé!Vinous Media | 91 VM

Here there is enough reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background at present. There is an appealing tension and refinement to the succulent middle weight flavors that are supported by lemon-tinged acidity on the refreshingly dry, youthfully austere and intensely mineral-driven finale. This isn’t especially dense but it’s silky and certainly firm enough to need at least moderate patience. In a word, lovely.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2023 Chablis Blanchots Grand Cru is matured entirely in tank. Green apple, Anjou pear. A brioche-tinged bouquet gains intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with slightly lower acidity, a little waxy in texture with good weight on the finish. The 2022 is more complex but this should still give a decade of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is raised in used barrels. The nose here is much more reticent than the Bougros, demanding coaxing from the glass. Given a few swirls, eventually, it offers quite attractive yellow fruit, beeswax and lanolin scents. The palate is well balanced with a more exotic white peach and apricot. This more-of-a-crowd-pleasing Les Clos doesn’t possess the acidity of the previous vintage, but there is certainly weight and length. It will be one of the earlier-drinking Les Clos.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMModerate wood frames more prominent floral influence on the aromas of algae, citrus confit and oyster shell. The succulent yet nicely tension-filled broad-shouldered flavors are quite rich and generously proportioned where the wood telegraphed by the nose is picked up by the solidly long and borderline chewy finale that is refreshingly dry. This isn’t what I would describe as a classic Les Clos but it’s impressive in its fashion and should age accordingly yet be approachable young.Burghound | 90-93 BH

A beautifully layered nose subtly blends notes of poached pear, just sliced apple, spice and a touch of citrus confit. There is an equally beautiful texture to the seductive and caressing medium weight flavors that possess sneaky good length on the balanced finale. This is lovely and while it’s not particularly intense, it remains refreshing and inviting as well as a wine that could be enjoyed on the younger side if desired.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with citrus peel and light floral scents. It’s a little more reductive than other cuvées, but that’s no bad thing. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, building nicely in the mouth with just a hint of peach skin on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPale lemon and lime. There is a touch of citrus with the minor reduction. Firm at the finish which is no bad thing as there is a considerable volume of white orchard fruit which needs to be kept in place. Easy of access once again. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The Puligny Garenne has not fallen clear after a recent stirring. This blocks the nose a little, while nourishing the palate which has impressive depth and length. A little lemony note to the acidity. Probably not a typical note but clearly a promising wine. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne offers up aromas of apple, pear and fresh mint, followed by a medium-bodied, delicate and fine-boned palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru from the top of the slope has a pretty nose with light orange blossom and apricot scents unfolding with aeration. The palate is leesy on the entry, fine weight, not quite the same tension as some of the other Premier Crus but there is satisfying length. Probably one of the earlier drinking cuvées from Sauzet.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Aromas of nashi pear, orange peel, vanilla pod and flint preface the 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium- to full-bodied, taut and racy wine that is considerably concentrated for the vintage, culminating in a long, oak-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPProminent petrol nuances are present on the ripe and smoky mix of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, lemon-lime and ocean breeze are trimmed in subtle but not invisible wood. There is both better volume and a bit more punch as well to the utterly delicious flavors that deliver fine length on the balanced, dry and sleek finale. While this could use better depth, it’s very stylish, indeed the word classy comes to mind.Burghound | 90-93 BH30% oak component. A lively fresh lemon. Immediate personality without the super-succulence of the hotter years. A little smoky reduction. White orchard fruit with good energy behind, attractive kimmeridgian texture behind. Fine persistence. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMThe 2024 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru takes its time to open in the glass. Eventually, there’s more green fruit here, with touches of gooseberry, Conference pear and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with a more delicate style. It’s quite strict, though a little spice emerges toward the finish. This is understated for a Montée de Tonnerre.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

They were thinking about pulling this plot out but it has come through the wetter conditions of 2024 very well, so they may keep it going. Clean pale lemon. The bouquet is quite reticent. Concnetrated white fruit, plenty of energy here, the fruit well married with the oak, fair length. A little extra here in 2024. Drink from 2029-2033. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux has good intensity on the nose, a touch of struck match complementing the citrus fruit, with just a little reduction that should play out nicely with bottle age. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity and well integrated oak that lends ballast to the mid-palate. Gentle grip, just a hint of creaminess towards the finish, this is a lovely Puligny to savour over the next decade. (Drink between 2027-2037)Vinous Media | 91 VM

This is also sufficiently reduced to be impossible to properly read though it shouldn’t last as it’s really more due to post-bottling sulfur. No matter, more interesting are the finer but not denser middle weight flavors that possess a generous mouthfeel along with a certain reserve that becomes more apparent on the sneaky long, balanced and notably dry finale. While clearly still a bit awkward from the recent bottling, I like the potential.Burghound | 91 BH

The NV (2020) Brut Blanc de Blancs Coulmet, from vines in Sézanne, is soft, open-knit and gracious, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Baked apple tart, apricot, dried flowers and spice are all beautifully laced together. This is such a pretty and alluring Champagne. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2025; multiple disgorgements throughout the year.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe NV Champagne Blanc De Blancs Coulmet Brut has a bright pale yellow hue and is entirely crafted from Chardonnay around the 2020 vintage. A classic and very charming Blanc De Blancs, it’s refreshing and approachable, with notes of powdery fresh flowers, lemon-lime citrus, fresh green apples, and bread dough. Medium-bodied, it’s pure and fresh with clean citrus flavors and a delicate, elegant mousse. Drink now or over the next few years to preserve its freshness. Disgorged in May 2025 with 7 grams per liter dosage.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JDThe Coulmet bottling of Blanc de Blancs from Nicole Moncuit just arriving in the market is from the base year of 2020 and was disgorged in March of 2024, after three years aging sur latte. The vins clairs are fermented and raised in stainless steel and go through full malo. The wine offers up a lovely nose of pear, raw almond, chalky soil tones, bread dough and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, zesty and full-bodied, with a good core of fruit, fine mineral undertow, elegant mousse, brisk acids and fine length and grip on the complex and well balanced finish. The fruit from this hails from vineyards in the Côte de Sezanne, rather than from the family’s home village of Mesnil. Good juice. (Drink between 2024-2045)John Gilman | 90 JG