Wine Ratings

wines

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère was showing superbly, unfurling in the glass with scents of pear, citrus oil, orange blossom, dried white flowers, toasted nuts and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it’s concentrated and textural, with tangy acids, chalky extract and a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe Clos de la Mouchère is a domaine monopole of nearly 4ha. The vines date to before the Second World War and have not been replanted since. It is located midslope and consistently provides a lovely wine of exquisite balance and elegance. Here the accent is on ripe apple, spice and buttery aromas. The texture is broad and rich, but superbly elegant and well balanced. The finesse of the results in such a warm year are reassuring. Drinking Window 2022 - 2034.Decanter | 95 DECIn contrast to the nose of the Pucelles, here it’s elegant, pure and airy with its layered aromas of essence of apple, pear and acacia blossom. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the mouth coating and caressing middle weight flavors that culminate in a lemony finish that is hugely long if perhaps not quite as crisp. This too is very stylish and a wine that should age gracefully for years. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 95 BHThe 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru sports just a slight reduction on the nose, but it still manages to convey energy and mineralité. Maybe it just lacks a bit of personality? The palate is well balanced with good grip and substance. A little spicier than other Puligny 2019s, there is a touch of white pepper and bitter orange peel that lends tension and complexity on the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Aromas of aniseed and lemon rind with dried apple and pear follow through to a full body. Yet, it’s tight and layered with a compact palate and plenty of fruit. Needs time to open. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSThis is not the legendary Côte de Bouguerots bottling, but the regular Bougros – which still stood out alongside its peers. The fruit shows grand cru weight and the sunshine quality of the vintage, juicy but well balanced, while the crystalline purity of the finish sets this wine apart.Jasper Morris | 94 JMAromas of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, peach, mint and buttery pastry introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and enveloping wine that’s one of the more textural, dramatic wines in the range. Unusually deep and concentrated, its immediate, charming profile belies considerable aging potential this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPVibrant, this white combines green apple and citrus flavors with an iodide element. This is lean and intense, with a lingering citrus and mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA ripe and beautifully layered nose consists of notes of green fruit, citrus, iodine and mineral reduction. The powerful, rich and voluminous big-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate density that coats the palate with sap before concluding in an austere, long and vaguely rustic finale. This is an imposing Bougros that should age effortlessly over the next decade plus.Burghound | 92-94 BH

The 2019 Barbaresco Montefico Vigna Bric Mentina races out of the glass. Chalk, white pepper, crushed rose petal, cinnamon and salt abound. For readers who want to understand what Montefico is all about, well, this is it. Over the last year, the Montefico has started to flesh out a bit. Perhaps one day it will catch the Montestefano. For now, the Montefico is a Barbaresco to admire for its vibrant, mineral-drenched personality.Antonio Galloni | 96 AG

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is a pretty rich, bombastic wine, especially for Mayacamas. A blast of dark fruit, incense, tobacco, licorice, spice and mocha hits the palate. I would give the 2019 at least a few years in bottle to settle down, as it is quite the powerhouse today. This is an unusually flamboyant wine with plenty of richness and a bit less in the way of subtlety. The opulence of the vintage comes through loud and clear.Vinous Media | 97 VMLoaded with character and energy, this version reveals heavy notes of zesty sweet bay leaf and sassafras that infuse a core of steeped red currant and mulberry fruit, all carried by bright acidity and iron-laced tannins. The long finish pulls everything together, with the fruit, savory and mineral elements in harmony. Showing an old-school touch, this has a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon remains true to the winery’s historic style, offering complex notes of dried herbs and mixed berries, carried across the palate by a wine that’s medium-bodied, crisp and somewhat lean by modern Napa standards. It finishes long and dusty, promising well for the future.Robert Parker Wine Advocte | 94 RP

The 2020 Valbuena 5° ages five years in oak and bottle, which gives it its name. Harvest was challenging due to Covid and rain, requiring due diligence in the field and a faster, earlier harvest than anticipated, the grapes coming from the Vega Sicilia estate’s vines with about 35 years of age. It’s an ethereal, medium-bodied wine of lovely delicacy and elegance, 97% Tempranillo blended with 3% Merlot, then aged 12 months in French and American oak, six months in stainless steel and then 18 months in bottle. Blackcurrant, cedar, and balsamic highlight a citrusy freshness. It will hit its prime in five years and age another 20-25.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDProduced with a selection form the more ethereal parcels that don’t deliver the power sought for Unico, Valbuena 5º is however much more than a younger sibling of the iconic wine. The 2020 vintage, a child of a challenging growing season, both due to natural and operational challenges (remember Covid?...), it is a great achievement of nuanced power and detailed complexity, with a luscious fruit core lined with oregano, dried sage and thyme. Dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans build a broody background layer while Assam and Oolong tea leaves add umami depth. Beautiful detail and depth to the tannins.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECValbuena 5 used to be the baby Unico, and nowadays it is more like its younger brother with a lot of resemblance and just a bit less depth and tannins. Valbuena 5 comes from younger vines and sometimes different parcels from Unico. On the palate, this is more open and linear, while Unico is more profound and vertical. Notes of iron, blackberries, cedar, minerals and cocoa powder. Medium- to full-bodied with melted tannins and a long, long finish. Drinkable from 2025, but will hold for years.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2020 Valbuena is from a year marked by COVID-19 and lots of rain before the harvest, which resulted in a more ethereal wine, with 14% alcohol, a pH of 3.9 and 4.45 grams of acidity. It was produced with 97% Tinto Fino and 3% Merlot, cooled down for 24 hours and then fermented with indigenous yeasts from a pied de cuve in stainless steel. It matured in barrel and oak vats during the first year, and in the second one, it aged exclusively in oak vats of different sizes, 8,500 and 21,000 liters. In 2020, the wine is finer-boned, more fluid and only medium-bodied, perhaps because of the dilution from the rain; the tannins are fine-grained and polished, but there’s less juiciness in the wine. It calls for food. With time in the glass, the wine opens up and becomes more aromatic, and it even seems to gain juiciness and change texture. This is a production of 186,286 bottles, 5,673 magnums and some larger formats. It was bottled in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2020 Valbuena 5º is Tinta del País from Ribera del Duero. Balsamic and herbal aromas mingle with forest, red fruit, cherry, violet and a hint of apple peel on the nose. The palate is intense, with a velvety texture, moderate concentration and enveloping flow. Chalky tannins and a touch of creaminess define the structure. Ample and richly flavored, with subtle oak in the background. A fine example of elegant Ribera.Vinous Media | 95 VMA harmonious red, fresh and medium- to full-bodied, with a lovely skein of ground espresso, anise and paprika aromas lacing the black plum, cassis, violet, vanilla and loamy earth notes. Its fine-grained tannins are well-integrated and emerge to firm the long, focused finish. Tinto Fino and Merlot. Drink now through 2035. 15,525 cases made, 812 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2020 I Sodi di San Niccolò is fabulous. It is a rare wine that offers power, finesse and translucent energy at once. All the elements are in perfect balance. I can’t remember a Sodi like this one, a wine that is so complete and alluring right out of the gate. Rose petal, lavender, spice, orange peel and sage open first. What impresses me most about the 2020 is the finesse of its tannin, something I have very rarely seen in Sodi at this early stage. Magical. This is remarkable in every way.Vinous Media | 97+ VMPacked with ripe, juicy cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and floral aromas and flavors, this red is supple and beautifully integrated. Earth, iron and tobacco accents add detail as this winds down on the lazy, resonant aftertaste, showing terrific energy. Sangioveto and Malvasia Nera. Best from 2026 through 2043. 5,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSA delicate combination of aniseed and exotic spices with fragrant floral scents and ripe red berry fruit. Smells really quite individual, a touch of vanilla and caramel about this too. Clean, supple and alive, this has character from the get go, juicy and precise, thrilling acidity joins massy but fine tannins that give this a buzzy, lifted but filling expression from the get go. Everything is at the fore, and carries the intensity to a long finish. Upfront and so intense, but refined and purposeful. It feels effortless as much as it does intense which is quite a feat. Joyful and with complexity. Too young now but give this a few years at least. I love the graphite and wet stone chalkiness on the finish too.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECDeep and dark aromas of Mediterranean herbs, restrained black cherries and stern, earthy complexity. Firm on the palate, with a full body, velvety tannins. crisp acidity and a chalky finish. Long, toasted graphite aftertaste. Sangiovese and malvasia nera. A wine intended for the long haul, yet ready to drink in a year or two.James Suckling | 96 JS

With 3.65ha spread over eight plots, Fèvre is the largest owner in Vaulorent. Didier Seguier says marl soil gives the density, while Kimmeridgian supplies the minerality. Great complexity on both the nose and palate, this has the richness and structure of the grand cru. Absolutely no need to rush drinking this. Stunning.Decanter | 96 DECOne of the finest wines in the portfolio this year is the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a taut, youthfully reserved bottling of immense promise. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, beeswax, crisp white peach, white flowers, freshly baked bread and oyster shell, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with terrific tensioning intensity in a tightly wound format. It’s warmly recommended, though patience will be required.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP(Chablis “Vaulorent”- Domaine William Fèvre) I am always impressed that Didier Séguier chooses to only bottle the finest parcels of old vines in Vaulorent under that label, with the remainder of the domaine’s holdings being bottled under a Fourchaume label. But, when one tastes this hard on the heels of the very fine Fourchaume domaine wine, one can see that these old vines are a step up in quality. The bouquet of the 2020 Vaulorent jumps from the glass in a stunning blend of pear, apple, tart orange, lemon zesty, a kaleidoscopic base of limestone minerality, a touch of anise and a floral topnote redolent of white lilies. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, superb mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and great balance on the long and zesty finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2065)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe restrained and layered nose makes clear that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its aromas of algae, iodine, oyster shell and spiced pear. The texture of the medium-weight flavors is also sleek and intense with slightly better density if a bit less refinement to the youthfully austere bitter lemon-suffused finish. Lovely and while qualitatively equal to the MdT, it offers a markedly different expression.Burghound | 93 BH

(Chablis “les Preuses”- Domaine William Fèvre) The 2020 les Preuses from Domaine Fèvre was one of the finest white wines I tasted from the entire vintage during my trip in November and December. The perfect ripeness of the vintage, coupled to such great acidity are the hallmarks of the best wines of 2020 and these attributes are on full display in this stunning young wine. The nose soars from the glass in a mineral bath of les Preuses Kimmeridgian limestone terroir, carrying notes of apple, pear, fresh lime, straw, oyster shell, white flowers and a topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is pure, precise, snappy and very, very complex, with great depth at the core, stunning mineral definition, laser-like focus and stunning length and grip on the simply beautiful young finish. All this great wine needs is time in the cellar to blossom. (Drink between 2031 - 2080)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is, if anything, even more electric than the formidable Valmur, wafting from the glass with notions of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, oyster jus and wet stones. Full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it’s racy and intense, with a bright spine of acidity and a long, intensely saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPFrom 1.5ha on soils that are high in clay content above Bougros, together with 1ha just above Bouguerots. Distinct precision here, not a blockbuster but intense and focused. Lovely crystalline fruit and will age beautifully.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of quinine, essence of wet stone and seashore add breadth to the nose of pear, apple and anise. Once again there is fine density and intensity to the mouthcoating medium-weight flavors that flash outstanding length on the bracingly saline-suffused finale. This has already developed very good depth and more will almost surely follow. This is potentially outstanding.Burghound | 95 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru comes from 2.5 hectares of vines in two locations, one east-facing and one southwest-facing. It has quite a deep, intense nose featuring lemon zest, crushed stone, linden and touches of citrus peel. The cohesive palate is smooth and harmonious with fine salinity, if maybe not quite building on its initial promise, as the finish pulls up just a little short compared to the Bougros. Still, this should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Fèvre’s largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler climate and with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. 50% of the vines were planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine.Decanter | 97 DECChoosing a favorite among the last three grand crus in the Domaine Fèvre lineup is simply impossible in 2020. The les Clos is yet another stunning young wine, offering up a refined and complex bouquet of pear, tart orange, fresh lime, flinty, chalky minerality, citrus peel, dried flowers and a nice touch of smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and seamlessly balanced, with a beautiful harness of acidity, a great core of fruit and a very long, very minerally and oh, so complex young finish. A great wine by any measure! (Drink between 2032 - 2080)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre’s immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it’s full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It’s the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA cool, restrained and airy nose grudgingly divulges its combination of lemon rind, green apple, quinine and acacia blossom scents that are also trimmed in discreet wood. There is again excellent volume and concentration to the powerful and muscular flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract on the impressively complex and hugely long finish. This is classic Les Clos in that it manages to be at once big and overtly powerful while remaining refined and classy. This is, in a word, stunning.Burghound | 96 BHThis lemon- and green apple–infused white stays lean, racy and long, combining power and intensity. On the austere side today, with a mineral underpinning and chalky finish. Best from 2025 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from 10 parcels scattered mainly over the top of the hill. It has a well-defined, crisp and (for the vintage) quite austere nose due to the location higher up the slope. The fresh palate is nicely detailed with lime and lemon thyme and good salinity. Quite strict on the mineral-driven finish. Good potential, but it will need time.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is deeply complex and spicy, with a wild bouquet that blends orange shavings, sour cherries, rosemary and nuances of split pine. It possesses an impenetrable core of crunchy red berry fruits and mineral tones, with hints of clove adding a bitter bite under an air of violet inner florals. Youthfully dense yet refined, there is simply so much going on here, as tart cranberry blends with a saturation of fine tannins and inner rose tones swirl throughout. Nearly a minute goes by, and the 2021 can still be sensed through a tinge of licorice and lavender. This is a drop-dead gorgeous and radiant effort for Salvioni, with a bright future in store for patient collectors.Vinous Media | 97 VMAlso tasted from barrel, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino La Cerbaiola takes on notes of blood orange, dark berries, and dark earth. Offering a noble structure with good acidity and a more angular feel, it has a good deal of tension up front and a long finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

A new wine that is a cask selection. It’s certainly different from the normal bottling, with aromas of red cherries, cedar, hibiscus and crushed stones. The palate shows round tannins and a juicy and savory finish. A second wine of this estate. From organically grown grapes. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSCrushed black raspberries combine with shavings of cedar, sweet lavender and crushed violets as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Pretto forms its darkly alluring bouquet. Juicy upon entry, it offers fresh acidity and a cascade of ripe red and blue fruits, while inner violet florals add a lovely perfumed character. The wine displays exceptional length and balanced structure, leaving a citrus twang to enliven the finish.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Another perfumed beauty that shows rose, pine cone, red fruit and lilac aromas that follow through to a medium body with firm tannins and a lightly chewy finish. Savory and juicy. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSDepths of wild strawberry mix with flowery underbrush and crushed violets as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is vibrant and racy in style, with crisp wild berry fruits and a cascade of inner floral perfumes. Nuances of sour citrus and inner cedar tones add complexity throughout. Its structure comes in late, crunchy and edgy, leaving a tart blackberry saturation that pinches at the cheek as steely mineral tones echo throughout. This is a high-energy Brunello from Sassetti with the balance for medium-term cellaring.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Aromas of sandalwood, dried flowers, black cherries and lavender follow through to a medium body with firm and silky tannins and a firm and crunchy finish. Needs three or four years to soften and come together, but the quality of the fine tannins is very impressive. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSCrushed ashen stones and dusty sage combine with rose petals and dried black cherries as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Mulino evolves in the glass. It splashes across the palate with mineral-infused wild berry fruits over a wave of soft textures as violet inner florals and cooling lavender tones accumulate toward the close. The 2021 is giving yet refined, leaving a tart blackberry concentration framed by sweet tannins and crisp minerality as hints of licorice fade. This is a more forward vintage for Mulino but with an energy that I find truly seductive.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Aromas of forest floor, ripe woodland berry, cedar and lavender come to the forefront on the beautiful 2021 Brunello from Armilla. Elegantly structured and savory, the vibrant palate offers crushed Morello cherry, wild strawberry, star anise, rosemary and a hint of truffle accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe Armilla 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the character of the vintage with good freshness, dark fruit nuances and notes of pressed flowers. It offers solid intensity—measured, but not shy—and moves across the palate with medium fruit weight, concluding with a short, somewhat lean finish. Produced from organically farmed (but not certified) vineyards in the southern part of the appellation, Armilla’s Brunello typically emphasizes purity and approachability over power. This is a lighter, more informal style of Brunello, albeit with a Brunello price tag. Production is 10,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly floral, with a hint of crushed rocks and dried herbs giving way to subtle strawberry nuances. It is wonderfully fresh and lifted, with a core of brisk acidity and juicy wild berry fruits. Edgy tannins and inner florals resonate as the 2021 tapers off long but lifted.Vinous Media | 92 VMModern style here, with lush plums and black cherries, violets and licorice. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky yet tight tannins. Bitter finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 91 JS

A restrained wine with a graceful nose of subtle red cherries, wild strawberries, sweet violets and complex earth and tamarind. Full-bodied with licorice flavors, a dense mid-palate and velvety tannins that are powerful yet ripe. Slightly lifted acidity and a long,chewy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with heavenly perfumes as geraniums, bergamot and rose petals mix with lavender and exotic spice. It is lifted and sleek with cool-toned acidity and tart red and blue fruits flowing beneath an air of violet inner florals. The finish has saturating tension, mixing fine-grained tannins with graphite mineral tones and citrus, while hints of sour cherry pinch at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 94 VMPackaged with a gold label, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino marks the return of a wine I personally have not seen in years. In truth, this wine has been produced since 2005, the year the Gaja family acquired a vineyard in the Torrenieri area in the northern part of the appellation where clay-rich soils with high water retention create powerful wines with softer acidity. Fruit from that vineyard was blended with grapes from the Rennina and Sugarille vineyards. However, this wine has recently seen the inclusion of fruit from two new plots, Bolsignano and Villa a Tolli, that bring acidity freshness and mineral tension. The wine presents a medium- to full-bodied texture with notes of dried fruit, cassis, tarry smoke and savory leather. It is lean on the mid-palate yet long and polished. Tight-edged tannins suggest the need for additional bottle aging, a profile consistent with a traditionally structured Brunello. This is a release of 90,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

A complex and minerally wine with aromas of crushed stones, graphite, red cherries, licorice, dried flowers and aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, tense and crisp on the palate, with firm, velvety tannins and a juicy, chalky yet ripe finish with fruity and gamy flavors. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina delivers power and a full-bodied style shaped by a warm vintage and carefully calibrated oak aging under the Gaja family’s expert hand. It shows notable volume and texture, with an open-knit feel that reveals black fruit and spice on the close. Tightly wound at present, it requires more time to age and fully integrate its elements. This is a production of 14,400 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina boasts a dark ruby hue and a bouquet of crushed blackberries, dusty sage, talc, nuances of mint and orange zest. It’s racy with bright acidity and crisp wild berry fruits that slowly saturate the senses, further enhanced by an array of grippy tannins. This Brunello finishes with excellent length and heroic structure, leaving a cascade of inner florals and subtle licorice twang.Vinous Media | 95 VMCurrently resting in concrete, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Renina is a jeweled ruby hue and offers aromatics that are compact and pure with liqueur of red cherries. It’s more consistent on the palate, with ripe tannins, seamless acidity, crystalline freshness, and a very even and long finish, but it’s not lacking for ripeness. I predict this will be a very successful vintage for this wine, which is more similar to 2019 in terms of its more noble structure.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

The organic La Torre 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a fleeting impression of fruit ripeness that quickly gives way to classic Sangiovese complexity marked by grilled herbs, blue flowers and earthy nuance. There is a tactile, skin-driven quality to the palate in this vintage, almost as if tasting the grapes directly at harvest, bringing added crunch, spice and energy. Despite Brunello’s mandatory five years of aging, the wine maintains a vivid sense of freshness, rolling across the palate in a collected and measured manner. Aged in Slavonian oak casks, the tannins are well integrated and supported by just enough acidity to keep the wine moving with precision. Fruit comes from 4.9 hectares of vineyards situated at 420 meters in elevation, helping to preserve balance and a gracefully accessible 13.5% alcohol content. Production is approximately 15,000 bottles, including larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDusty sage and rosemary give way to shaved blood orange and nuances of white smoke as the brooding 2021 Brunello di Montalcino dominates the glass. It is dark and rich on the palate, weightier than anticipated, with depths of ripe red and black fruit over a penetrating core of minerality. The senses are left clenched by youthfully aggressive tannins as the 2021 tapers off dramatically long and structured for the cellar.Vinous Media | 93+ VMRed fruit, lavender, cedar and a hint of sweet spices. Medium-bodied, with chewy tannins and tender fruit lifted by fresh acidity. The balance of delicacy and structure makes this particularly appealing. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2028.James Suckling | 93 JS

Hands down the best wine I’ve had to date from San Giorgio, the 2021 Brunello Ugolforte opens to heady aromas of pine forest, new leather, ripe dark-skinned fruit and dark spice. Full-bodied and enveloping, the delicious palate features baked plum, cherry compote, star anise, cake spice and blood orange alongside velvety, enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it lifted and balanced. Drink 2031–2039. Abv: %Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe San Giorgio 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte (with 60,000 bottles produced), shows an intentionally accessible personality with dark concentration and sweet blackberry fruit designed for near- to medium-term enjoyment. Aged in large Slavonian oak casks with time in cement, the wine delivers texture and open-knit tannins that give it a cheerful and food-friendly profile. Made by the same team behind Poggio di Sotto, one of Montalcino’s benchmarks for cellar-worthy wines, this bottling favors immediacy without sacrificing balance. The fruit comes from 28 hectares of estate vineyards, reinforcing consistency across the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte tempts the senses with a whiff of freshly split pine, giving way to dusty roses, hints of worn leather and dried black cherries. Like pure silk on the palate, it possesses a seamless character and polished red berry fruits that soothe the senses. Sleek and expertly balanced, the 2021 leaves the senses stained in blackberry concentration, enhanced by a tactile mineral tinge. The Brunello of San Giorgio is improving with each passing vintage.Vinous Media | 94+ VMPouring a youthful red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Ugolforte is expressive and forward, with aromas of raspberry liqueur, pressed flowers, rosemary, and pine. The palate is medium-bodied and ripe, with plush tannins, balanced acidity, and an even, seamless finish. Marked by elegance, it’s full but not heavy, with purity and structure that make it a very impressive Brunello to drink over the coming 12-15 years. Drink 2026-2041.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDA ripe version, this red exhibits blackberry, black currant and plum flavors, plus a touch of licorice. Wrapped in a dense matrix of tannins, leaving a tactile sensation on the lingering finish. Iron and eucalyptus notes also chime in. Best from 2030 through 2050. 7,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAn excellent Brunello with notes of dried herbs, minerals, grapefruit and raw spices. Medium body with fine-grained tannins and a long, juicy finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

Aromas of black cherries, orange peel and crushed stones, Medium-bodied with juicy fruit and a flavorful finish. There’s almost a sandy, terra cotta character in the finish. Lovely balance. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSCamphor, lavender, new leather and forest floor aromas form the nose on the 2021 Brunello from Mastrojanni. The palate shows great intensity, featuring ripe black cherry, raspberry, licorice and fine tobacco blend before an orange zest note lifts the finish. It’s brawny but balanced, with taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass with a burst of crushed ashen stone and sage, giving way to mulling spice and dried black cherries. It envelops the palate with silken textures and masses of ripe dark red fruits, soothing, polished and balanced in feel. Edgy tannins mingle with a subtle citrus twang as rosy inner florals resonate through the dramatically long, youthfully structured finale. The balance here is beyond reproach. Mastrojanni blended in the juice from the Vigna Schiena d’Asino to bolster this bottling.Vinous Media | 93 VM

A lively Brunello with aromas of plums, ripe cherries, cedar and teak that follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a crisp finish. Crunchy and linear. Lovely energy at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes violet and lavender tones before settling on stemmed wild strawberries. It is remarkably fresh and fruit-forward, with a core of tantalizing acidity elevating depths of ripe red and blue fruits. This finishes with staining length and edgy tannins, leaving a raspberry concentration and nuances of autumnal spice.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2020 Brunello from Altesino has pretty aromas of blue flower, baked plum and wild herb. Lithe and already accessible, the rather straightforward palate offers ripe raspberry, blood orange and licorice accompanied by polished tannins. Drink through 2033. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 91 KO

Castello Romitorio’s 2021 Brunello di Montalcino channels much of the estate’s fruit over seven plots, as no Riserva was produced, resulting in a wine of notable depth and cohesion. Whispered and delicate at first, the bouquet unfolds with white pepper, blue flowers and grilled herb before moving toward darker tones of sweet blackberry. The palate is open-knit yet powerful, showing juicy ripeness, layered complexity and a structured mid-palate that remains streamlined in classic Sangiovese fashion. Fermented in cement with maceration times tailored to the thickness of the skins from each plot, typically ranging from 18 to 24 days and extending up to 30 days when needed, the wine was aged for 24 months in oak, with 90% in large barrels and 10% in second- and third-passage tonneaux. Produced in 42,000 bottles, this Brunello will benefit from additional cellaring.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPCedar spice box mixes with incense, cloves and dried black cherries as the expressive 2021 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. Elegant with a wildly appealing energy, the 2021 displays masses of ripe wild berry fruits beneath an air of violet inner florals. It finishes with incredible length and concentration, perfectly framed by a coating of sweet tannin. This young, radiant Brunello is sure to have many fans.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Gorgeous aromas of blackberries, black cherries, cedar, bark and spices follow through to a medium body with fine, integrated tannins and a succulent finish. Shows drive and intensity at the end. Give this three to four years in the bottle, but it’s already beautiful. Drink after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSBalsamic black cherries blend with nuances of mocha, brown spice and minty herbs as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli dominates the glass. It has the weight of velvet yet remains lifted and serene, with crisp red and black fruits that slowly penetrate, complemented by a twang of citrus. A bitter dark chocolate tinge adds tension through the close, further enhanced by edgy tannins, yet the 2021 leaves the mouth watering for more. Beautifully done.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe Siro Pacenti 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli shows concentration with dark fruit flavors framed by powdery tannins that extend through a medium- to full-bodied finish. Following fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures in French barrique, a choice that adds structure and polish to this bold expression. Sourced from 10 hectares of moisture-retaining clay soils in the northern part of the appellation at 330 meters above sea level, the wine delivers notable power and warmth, closing with an evident 15.5% alcohol. This is a release of 24,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP