Wine Ratings

wines

The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is every bit as spectacular as it has always been. I remember tasting the 2004 with Bruno Giacosa and Dante Scaglione before it was released, and making a note to buy as much of the wine as soon as it hit the market. I have never regretted that decision. Explosive, deep and powerful, the 2004 Asili will reward readers lucky enough to own it for several decades. On this night, it is simply sublime. Not surprisingly, the 2004 is also one of the favorites of the group.Vinous Media | 99 VMThe 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is even more compelling than the Rabaja. It floats on the palate with an ethereal core of sweet fruit that calls to mind a profound Musigny, but with the unmistakable structure of Nebbiolo. The perfumed purity of the fruit carries all the way through to the deeply satisfying, resonating finish. Made in a soft, seductive style, this remarkable wine is decidedly more approachable and easy to appreciate today than the Rabaja. Giacosa fans will have a great time discussing the merits of the Rabaja and the Asili in 2004, but to me they are virtually equally moving; Asili for its feminine gracefulness and Rabaja for its size and power. The Asili should prove more accessible at an earlier age. Bruno Giacosa says his 2004 Asili Riserva will turn out to be just like his 2000 Asili Riserva, the wine he still thinks is the best he’s ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPStrawberry jam, plums, berries, and black truffles. Brimming and super refined with super silky tannins and a long, long finish. Beautiful class and balance. This is drinking incredibly right now but will keep for decades.James Suckling | 97 JSAromas of strawberry and candle wax develop to cherry and light incense. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and lots of fruit. Focused and very well done, but really tight at the moment. Very structured. Needs time. This is the red label. Best after 2014. 1,170 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2010 Solaia rounds out this flight in style. Swaths of tannin give the 2010 a real sense of explosive energy and vibrancy that only builds with time in the glass. A whole range of dark aromas and flavors give the 2010 its brooding, inward personality. Tasted from magnum, the 2010 is very young, but its pedigree is unmistakable.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGA triumph for Solaia: it suggests the greatness of the legendary 1997. This is a wine with very subtle, complex aromas and flavours of currants, licorice and raspberries. Wonderful nose. Full body with ultra-fine tannins and a long, long finish. It lasts for minutes on the palate. The precision of the cabrenet sauvignon comes through here. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2010 Solaia puts on an incredible show that hits all the senses and keeps your unyielding attention for as long as there is wine in the bottle. There are various ways to describe the bouquet. First, is the wine’s sweet side, as this beautiful 75-20-5 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc delivers ripe cherry, black currant, baking spice and dark chocolate. After that, the wine becomes redolent of tobacco, balsam, bay leaf, rum cake and dark licorice. The bouquet is all encompassing and complete. A firmly structured backbone is padded generously by the fleshy richness of its consistency. This is a gorgeous wine that will age for decades. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAlready one of Italy’s most iconic bottlings, this gorgeous 2010 is already a classic. Its complex and intense bouquet unfolds with ripe blackberries, violets, leather, thyme and balsamic herbs. The palate shows structure, poise and complexity, delivering rich black currants, black cherry, licorice, mint and menthol notes alongside assertive but polished tannins and vibrant energy. This wine will age and develop for decades. Drink 2018–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEWith intense black olive and tapenade aromas, this wine remains almost entirely knitted down and is still a long way from lift-off. But everything is in place for it to be exceptional. The tannins are beautifully ripe, building up through the palate to give shoulders and heft to the spiced blackberry, pepper and fig notes. You can feel the warmth of the Tuscan sun through the exoticism of the spice structure, with fresh Cabernet elegance pulling everything upwards on the finish. A great wine from a growing season that was long and relatively cool until harvest, when hot sunny days lasted through October. (Drink between 2019-2038)Decanter | 94 DECA dense, powerful red, with a good lashing of oak, this evokes black currant, blackberry and spice flavors. Finds equilibrium with air, gaining suppleness and finishing long and complex. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2016 through 2028. 7,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2010 Percarlo is shaping up to be one of the elite wines of this great Tuscan vintage. Even today, the 2010 is remarkably seamless, balanced and integrated, with fine tannins, beautifully delineated fruit and exceptional overall balance. Layers of dark fruit, graphite and exotic spices build to a crescendo of aromas and flavors that captivates the senses. Although it is early, it certainly looks like the 2010 Percarlo is set to take its place as one of the greatest wines ever made at San Giusto.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe profound beauty of the 2010 Percarlo cannot be exaggerated. This is an exceptional wine, and one of the best I tasted in Tuscany this year. The bouquet shows infinite layering and a steady evolution in the glass with tones of red cherry, spice, caramel, cigar ash, balsam herb and cola. It shows new dimension with each swirl of the glass. The mouthfeel, on the other hand, is steady and strong, with a gripping sense of structure that is yielding but dense at the same time. A point of acidity adds levity and length. This is an excellent candidate for long cellaring.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows excellent balance among the ripe, sweet cherry, wild herb, iron, earth and tobacco flavors. Structured yet elegant, with everything in the right place and set for another few decades of life. Fruit, mineral and underbrush notes grace the long aftertaste.—Non-blind Percarlo vertical (August 2018). Drink now through 2040. 1,264 cases made, 475 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

For all who criticized the 2014 vintage across the board: this. Opening with enticing scents of new leather, rose, camphor and perfumed berry, it’s a text-book Serralunga Barolo. The chiseled palate is radiant, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, spiced cranberry and licorice while firm, fine-grained tannins provide taut support. Bright acidity keeps it racy, focused and balanced. It beautifully proves that even in challenging vintages, great producers can make great wines. Drink 2024–2034.Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Figli Luigi Oddero 2014 Barolo Vignarionda awards an immediate sense of place, with the ferrous earth, dried orange peel and balsam herb aromas that are so perfectly characteristic of Serralunga d’Alba. From the cool 2014 vintage, these pretty aromas have been given plenty of time to grow in intensity and clarity, thanks to extended cellar aging. Vignarionda is high, at 400 meters above sea level, and diurnal temperature shifts have evidently solidified and enhanced those pretty aromas. In line with the vintage, the mouthfeel is slightly thinner and smoother, showing a light and elegant textural fabric with silky tannins. This is the estate’s smallest production, with 3,800 bottles to be released in October 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAnother highlight in this range, the 2014 Barolo Vignarionda is terrific. Sweet, perfumed and silky on the palate, it captures the captivating bouquet and enthralling beauty that are the signature of this site. Bright red cherry, raspberry, rose petal and mint all meld together in a Barolo of exquisite beauty. This is one of the best Vigna Rionda Barolos. The style here is still a work in progress, but this is a very, very pretty Barolo.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Extremely perfumed, showing lots of rose, lavender and dark-berry character. Full body with intense density and chewiness that gives the wine great structure. Lots of flavor and focus at the finish. Needs five to six years to finish. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is just as stunning as it was last year. Bright, floral and punchy, the Gavarini explodes from the glass with blood orange, white pepper, mint and a range of red fruit and floral notes that give energy and drive.Vinous Media | 97 VMGianluca Grasso did not make this wine in 2014, but in 2015, he found the vintage he was looking for. The 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is perfectly wonderful. The wine combines power with elegance, showing long determination as it wraps smoothly over the palate. The mature tannins are well integrated within a profound, ripe and round quality of dark fruit. That juicy and succulent core shows graceful notes of violet, licorice, cola, moist earth and white truffle. Grasso knew that this would be a great vintage and he nailed it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPNot showing much today, this red reveals an undercurrent of iron and black pepper notes supporting the core of cherry, plum, earth and tobacco flavors. Fresh and intense, with a long, resonant aftertaste of fruit, tar and spice. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is ripe with dried plum, saddle leather, crushed rock, and tar. Revealing a mineral-rich earth and full structure, with black tea, dried porcini, and cherry pit, it is warming with a wintery feel. This is a great one to lay down and check in on in 4-6 years. Drink 2025-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDAromas of underbrush, camphor, new leather and woodland berry mingle with a whiff of pressed rose petal on this compelling red. Still youthfully austere but already incredibly delicious, it delivers raspberry compote, truffle, tobacco and licorice framed in tightly knit, noble tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Another fantastic showing from this wonderful estate. Drink 2025–2040.Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOAromas of underbrush, camphor, new leather and woodland berries mingle with a whiff of pressed rose petal on this compelling red. Still youthfully austere but already incredibly delicious, it delivers raspberry compote, truffle, tobacco and licorice framed in tightly knit, noble tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Another fantastic showing from this wonderful estate. Drink 2025–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEOffers nice tension between the supple texture and firm structure, showing cherry, currant and strawberry fruit flavors, with floral, mineral and tree bark accents. Balanced, with plenty of grip for future evolution. Best from 2024 through 2043. 1,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe flagship wine from the talented Cavallotto family, comprising 8,938 bottles and 666 magnums, the 2015 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is still quite young but equally promising at its release. This is one of my favorite vineyard sites, and Castiglione Falletto, located at the center of the appellation, boasts prime positioning that unites the best qualities of its surroundings. Keeping in line with the vintage characteristics, the wine is generous in terms of aromas and fleshed out in terms of mouthfeel. There is plenty of red and purple fruit, and the wine gains complexity, thanks to pretty appearances of blue flower, spice, toast and powdery earth. The 2015 vintage is slightly softer and more accessible overall compared to the tightly knit 2013 and 2010 editions, two classic vintages for this Riserva.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPCavallotto’s 2015 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe rounds out this trio of new releases. A big, strapping wine, the 2015 possesses remarkable intensity to match its classic, mid-weight frame. Like all of these Barolos, it seems to have less overt fruit and more classicism. Camphor, licorice, menthol, pine, underbrush and scorched earth all run through the 2015, a big, brawny Riserva that will delight for many years to come. The 2015 San Giuseppe is what Barolo is all about. It’s a must for Cavallotto fans.Vinous Media | 96 VMAlfio Cavallotto, a well known organic producer in Castiglione Falletto, owns 15.5 hectares of Bricco Boschis from its total of 17ha - it was a monopole of the estate until 2014. Vigna San Giuseppe is located at the top of the cru, where the soils are even sandier than in other parts of the MGA, due to the simultaneous presence of Diano sandstones and sandy Sant’Agata Fossili marls. His 2015 is as much austere as detailed: rose, plum and prune aromas are joined by smoky woodland and a depth of forest floor. Prunes appear on the palate too, with an earthy minerality and muscular yet ripe, sweet tannins due to old vines (around 50 years old). This also displays refreshing acidity and balanced alcohol. Extremely consistent with the vintage, it is now available and ready for the long haul.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe Barolo Riserva bottlings from the Cavallotto family are given approximately thirty days of maceration and aged for fully four years in Slavonian oak Botti prior to bottling, and then an additional year of bottle aging in the cellar before they are deemed ready for release! The 2015 Bricco Boschis Riserva comes in at 14.5 percent octane and delivers a superb nose of red and black cherries, spit-roasted venison, anise, woodsmoke, a touch of road tar, camphor, complex soil tones and a pungent topnote of roses. On the palate the wine is young, full-bodied, focused and classic in profile, with a rock solid core of fruit, outstanding soil signature, ripe, chewy tannins, tangy acids and great balance and grip on the long, complex and very promising finish. This is a great wine in the making, but it is going to need plenty of time in the cellar! (Drink between 2035-2085)John Gilman | 94+ JG

Wonderful aromas of roses and sliced plums with wet earth and truffles. Then turns to raspberries and blackberries. Cherries, too. Full and firm with super integrated tannins that melt into the wine. It flows from the center palate in a beautiful sheet of fruit and tannins. Extremely long and coated with great finesse. Goes on for minutes. Better in 2022, but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 99 JSThe Valdicava 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark and sultry wine with a beautiful presentation of aromas. This full-bodied Sangiovese opens to aromas of plumy dark fruit, black cherry, cured tobacco, cola and balsam spice. There are earthy or savory tones as well, with some fragrant crushed flower or wild rose that come straight out of the classic Sangiovese playlist. Generally speaking, this Brunello veers toward black fruit aromas (as opposed to red fruits), and its smooth texture and elegant tannins are well suited to a classic Tuscan dish of pappardelle con sugo di lepre (wild rabbit) or another game sauce. Production is 37,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe bouquet holds back at first, yet with coaxing in the glass begins to show a beautiful mix of perfumed black cherry, mentholated spices, wild herbs, white smoke and hints of leather. On the palate, I find silky, enveloping textures, contrasted by cool-toned red and black fruits which flood the senses as brisk acids brought out its spicier, sweeter side with balancing fine tannin and minerals toward the finale. The finish went on and on, showing both fine tannin and juicy acids as lingering red berry fruits, hints of hard candies and red florals slowly fade. There’s a balance to the 2015 Brunello that is seldom seen here, and I believe the best is yet to come. This was tasted twice with similar results.Vinous Media | 95 VMRipe cherry, plum, raspberry, earth and almond flavors combine in this supple red. Vivid and well-defined by the sleek structure, ending with earth, wild herb and mineral accents. Very pure, verging on racy. Best from 2023 through 2045. 3,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Superb complexity on the nose with crushed berries, dried flowers, tar, licorice and aniseed. Full body, firm tannins and superb depth and intesity. Goes on for minutes and changes all the time. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSGorgeous notes of black cherries, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Cerequio, and this beauty is about as seamless and sexy as they come. More spice, toasted almonds, and dried flower notes develop with time in the glass, and it has magical tannins, medium-bodied richness, and a great, great finish. Give bottles 2-4 years and it’s going to impress for a good 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Cerequio shows impressive and firm construction; however, the wine remains delicate and finessed all the while. This is a real stunner with inner fiber that is as strong, but as softly textured, as the highest quality silk. Aromas of wild cherry, violets, licorice and tar are in a tight, nascent state at this young stage. This implies they will blossom with time, coming into focus with greater intensity and complexity as the wine continues its careful bottle aging. This wine shows an evident mineral signature at the back.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Barolo Cerequio is ample and generous on the palate, with a real sense of breadth that is immediately apparent. All of the classic Cerequio signatures are present - the red berry fruit, floral accents and silky tannins, within a classic structural framework. The stylistic shift that started around 2008 is evident.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta keeps me at the edge of the glass to take in its darkly alluring bouquet of dusty black currants and dried flowers, with hints of blood orange offset by sweet rose. While currently youthful and understated, it continues to open and deepen with each swirl. This is silky and cool-toned in feel, savory to the core, with a dense wave of mineral-tinged dark red fruits carried across a core of vibrant acidity. Autumnal spices form toward the close. The 2016 is inward and saturating, building in fine tannins that clench the palate through the finale, promising a long, long life. This is a masterpiece in the making, and while already bottled, it will not be released until 2023. Production was again down by 50% in 2016 due to hail.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMReleased after the 2017 vintage, because it was decided that this dense, concentrated vintage would benefit from more time in the bottle, the 2016 is fuller and broader in the shoulders compared to the 2017 Amarone. There’s more of everything – body, concentration, tannic presence, richness, spiciness...And while there’s a reductive note of petrichor, its aromatics still soar, carrying wafts of wild black fruits and balsam out of the glass. Enticing already, its future looks very bright indeed.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta takes wine intensity to almost unthinkable levels. That’s the magic of this estate, and without a doubt, this wine occupies a category that makes it totally unique on the Italian wine scale. Made with a traditional blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and 10% Oseleta (aged in French and American new oak for two years), the wine feels even richer, bolder and more concentrated in this classic vintage. That general intensity is applied to the tightly wound and firm tannins as well. The alcohol reading is 16.5%. This Amarone hits the market in 2023, but you’d do well to age it for another decade at least. Black fruit, baked plum, tobacco, soy sauce, grilled herb and sweet spice are generously folded into the wine’s full-bodied texture. The 2016 vintage saw 17,000 bottles created.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

The 2016 Sammarco is a dense, flamboyant wine. Inky red fruit, spice, cedar, tobacco, menthol and licorice are some of the notes that build in a statuesque Sammarco that dazzles from start to finish. A wine of stunning textural richness and intensity, Sammarco is translucent, sculpted and full of character. All the elements are so well balanced. Rose petal, cedar, tobacco and mint linger on the eternal finish. The 2016 is a magical wine that can be, surprisingly, enjoyed now or cellared for a number of years. Time in the glass just brings out its energy and vertical drive. Sammarco is quite possibly the single greatest value in high-end Italian wine. Don’t miss it. Antonio Galloni | 98 AGA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, this opens with earthy aromas of truffle, leather, game, cassis and blue flower. Delicious and bursting with personality, the full-bodied palate doles out ripe black plum, fleshy black cherry, crushed black olive and licorice. Velvety, fine-grained tannins provide support. Drink 2023–2036.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, the Castello dei Rampolla 2016 Sammarco was held back for an extra year of aging before its commercial release. In fact, I already reviewed the 2017 vintage last year because that wine is many times more accessible and immediate than this one. The issue at hand are the tannins, which remain very tight and grippy in this bottle. That extra year in bottle has helped them to integrate, but this wine still has a very long way to go. Keep that in mind if you collect Sammarco. Despite that slight astringency, this is a wine of courage and vision. It shows expertly measured fruit weight and lots of lively intensity on the bouquet.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPPlenty of currant and blackberry with some coffee and toasted oak on the nose. It’s full-bodied with a dense palate and round, polished tannins that fold nicely into this young wine. It’s very drinkable, even though it’s structured and so serious. Cool in the end, Cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and merlot. Unfiltered. This will age beautifully. Drink after 2023, but a beauty already.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2018 D’Alceo is a wild, exotic wine. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot come together in a wine that is sumptuous, layered and exceptionally beautiful. Inky blue/purplish fruit, sage, mint, lavender and chocolate are some of the many notes that take shape. The 2018 was fermented in cement then aged 12 months in a combination of 500L tonneaux and barriques. This really blooms with time.Antonio Galloni | 99 AGLots of blackcurrant and blackberry aromas follow through to a full body with firm tannins and a chewy finish. Lots of black licorice, aniseed and light asphalt. Lead pencil, too. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 96 JS

Impeccable protocol between the countryside and the cellar for a fixed point of the typology, played on the freshness and juiciness of the drink. Olfaction that attacks with juniper and redcurrant, lashes of rhubarb and wild fennel. A sip that highlights dense, velvety tannins, puffs of undergrowth.Luca Gardini | 98 LGAromas of sandalwood, dried flowers, black cherries and lavender follow through to a medium body with firm and silky tannins and a firm and crunchy finish. Needs three or four years to soften and come together, but the quality of the fine tannins is very impressive. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSCrushed ashen stones and dusty sage combine with rose petals and dried black cherries as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Mulino evolves in the glass. It splashes across the palate with mineral-infused wild berry fruits over a wave of soft textures as violet inner florals and cooling lavender tones accumulate toward the close. The 2021 is giving yet refined, leaving a tart blackberry concentration framed by sweet tannins and crisp minerality as hints of licorice fade. This is a more forward vintage for Mulino but with an energy that I find truly seductive.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Fragrant blue flower, fine tobacco blend, plum and eucalyptus are some of the beguiling aromas you’ll find on the compelling Franco Pacenti 2021 Brunello. The palate is equally captivating and utterly delicious, delivering spiced plum, succulent Marasca cherry, star anise and cake spice before closing on a spiced orange zest note. Tightly-knit, velvety tannins provide support while fresh acidity lends great energy. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA restrained and elegantly spicy wine with aromas of Earl Grey tea, potpourri, red cherries, red currants and stony minerality. Graceful on the palate, with ripe, velvety tannins, crisp and juicy integrated acidity, a full body and a long, savory finish. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSClassic to the core, the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes crushed black cherries and strawberries with dusty roses, violets and a cascade of autumnal spice to form its gorgeous bouquet. It displays textures of pure silk and polished red berry fruits, all perfectly supported by cooling acidity. A web of fine tannins frames the finish as hints of clove and tart woodland berries fade. The 2021 is remarkably pretty and refined and balanced for the cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMSince taking over the winemaking helm in 2015, Lorenzo Pacenti has aimed to exalt the fresh character of the Canalicchio zone. He has lowered fermentation temperatures, adopted gentler extraction techniques, shortened macerations and reduced time in wood. The 2021 reveals itself slowly with inklings of tobacco, forest floor and mushroom, and savoury nuances repeat on the midweight palate. Though not large, tannins are quite boisterous and need to settle. Mellowed fruit is enlivened by a jolt of orange and a crisp acid bite.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

The 2021 Brunello Helicrhysum is stunning wine with energy, structure and finesse. Made with organically grown grapes, it opens with heady aromas of new leather, lavender, dark spice and dark-skinned fruit. Firmly structured and showing great intensity, the palate delivers succulent black cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and dried mint alongside a backbone of fine-grained tannins. It’s still youthfully austere, with bright acidity. Drink 2023–2046. Abv: 14.5%Kerrin O’Keefe | 98 KOVery perfumed, with sandalwood, dried lavender, strawberries, ripe cherries and cedar on the nose. Medium-bodied with a solid core of fruit that is nicely framed by broad, integrated tannins that fold in beautifully. Fresh and crisp in the finish. Lovely tension. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in 2027 and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSSan Polino encourages spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts across the range. To further augment 2021’s vintage character, Helichrysum also sees a two-month period of lees stirring in barriques. For now, the wine is rather closed. Aromas suggest curry leaf, cardamom, dusty herb and iron. Full yet tight, the palate has yet to cede to graciousness – dense, sandy tannins firmly command. But while not easygoing or upfront, this introspective, textural Brunello simmers with immense personality. Needless to say, it will require further bottle age.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECSporting a saturated deep red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Helichrysum offers a layered, spiced aromatic profile of pine needles, dried cherries, licorice, and plum. The palate is medium to full-bodied, supple, and ripe, with generous fruit richness, silky tannins, and balanced acidity that keeps it composed through the finish. It retains enough freshness to offer longevity over the coming decade. Drink 2026-2036.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

Castelnuovo dell’Abate area, vineyards up to 25 years old on clay and tuff, sandstone and galestro soil, for a classic of the type. Espigliato attack on the nose, linden and pomegranate, with a strong floral component, of rose hips. The palate shows iodized tannins, closed by fruity memory.Luca Gardini | 98 LGHands down the best wine I’ve had to date from San Giorgio, the 2021 Brunello Ugolforte opens to heady aromas of pine forest, new leather, ripe dark-skinned fruit and dark spice. Full-bodied and enveloping, the delicious palate features baked plum, cherry compote, star anise, cake spice and blood orange alongside velvety, enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it lifted and balanced. Drink 2031–2039. Abv: %Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe San Giorgio 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte (with 60,000 bottles produced), shows an intentionally accessible personality with dark concentration and sweet blackberry fruit designed for near- to medium-term enjoyment. Aged in large Slavonian oak casks with time in cement, the wine delivers texture and open-knit tannins that give it a cheerful and food-friendly profile. Made by the same team behind Poggio di Sotto, one of Montalcino’s benchmarks for cellar-worthy wines, this bottling favors immediacy without sacrificing balance. The fruit comes from 28 hectares of estate vineyards, reinforcing consistency across the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte tempts the senses with a whiff of freshly split pine, giving way to dusty roses, hints of worn leather and dried black cherries. Like pure silk on the palate, it possesses a seamless character and polished red berry fruits that soothe the senses. Sleek and expertly balanced, the 2021 leaves the senses stained in blackberry concentration, enhanced by a tactile mineral tinge. The Brunello of San Giorgio is improving with each passing vintage.Vinous Media | 94+ VMPouring a youthful red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Ugolforte is expressive and forward, with aromas of raspberry liqueur, pressed flowers, rosemary, and pine. The palate is medium-bodied and ripe, with plush tannins, balanced acidity, and an even, seamless finish. Marked by elegance, it’s full but not heavy, with purity and structure that make it a very impressive Brunello to drink over the coming 12-15 years. Drink 2026-2041.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDA ripe version, this red exhibits blackberry, black currant and plum flavors, plus a touch of licorice. Wrapped in a dense matrix of tannins, leaving a tactile sensation on the lingering finish. Iron and eucalyptus notes also chime in. Best from 2030 through 2050. 7,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAn excellent Brunello with notes of dried herbs, minerals, grapefruit and raw spices. Medium body with fine-grained tannins and a long, juicy finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

The compelling Conti Costanti 2021 Brunello captivates with pronounced aromas of fragrant purple flower, eucalyptus, Mediterranean brush and perfumed berry. All about class and extreme finesse, the elegant palate delivers succulent wild raspberry, crushed Marasca cherry, spiced orange zest and star anise set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity lends balance and great intensity. Year after year Andrea Costanti turns out what are among the very best wines from Montalcino, and the 2021 is no exception, it’s an absolute stunner with great aging potential. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly inward in its youthful state, brooding and tense with tobacco, minty herbs, cedary spice, plum and nuances of black cherry. Soft textures wash across the energetic palate as mineral-inflected red berry fruits saturate. Structured and incredibly long, the 2021 leaves the cheeks puckering amidst fine-grained tannins and a contrasting accent of sour citrus.Vinous Media | 95 VM

30 months of oak wood of various sizes for a significant part of Ilcinese history, still heavily on the shields. Nose attack with sensations of Vignola durone, then shades of valdostan mint, mandarin and cinnamon. Very vertical on the palate, with fruity memory.Luca Gardini | 99 LGLavender, dark spice, Mediterranean scrub, perfumed wild berry, pipe tobacco and new leather aromas come to the forefront on the gorgeous Argiano 2021 Brunello. Solidifying their role as one of the denomination’s top producers, this is focused, refined and loaded with intensity, delivering layers of black cherry compote, juniper berry, licorice, cocoa and blood orange accompanied by a backbone of fine-grained, well-integrated tannins. It’s still young but already beautifully balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2031–2039. Abv: % Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and intense, with a smoldering bouquet of ashen stones, grilled herbs and dried black cherries. It is surprisingly energetic and lifted in feel, with racy red berry fruits and rosy inner florals that form a truly satisfying experience. The 2021 is pleasantly chewy and long, leaving a coating of fine-grained tannins and a nuance of tart blackberry.Vinous Media | 94+ VMA jeweled red/ruby color, the 2021 Rosso Di Montalcino needs air, opening with a bit of elevated volatile aromas before revealing notes of cherry candies, pressed roses, and licorice. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins and a nice primary profile, with an easygoing nature. It’s going to be a versatile wine for casual drinking over the next few years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

Black cherry, black licorice, graphite, violet and lavender aromas follow through to a full body with a compact center palate and chewy yet very integrated tannins that give drive and great length. Muscular and agile in the finish. Try after 2029.James Suckling | 98 JSSmall barrel and the most ‘historic’ vineyards on the property, combined with sustainable agriculture and non-invasive protocols in the cellar. Aromas of carob, puffs of gardenia and touches of dogwood orange. Savoury-salty sip, intense tannins, closes with a call of undergrowth.Luca Gardini | 98 LGThe Siro Pacenti 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne offers greater concentration and oak spice, presenting a dark and richly layered profile with generous tannins well suited to the character of the warm vintage. Aged in barrique, the wine is built from an intriguing blend of fruit, with half drawn from mineral-rich rocky soils at 150 meters in elevation in the southern sector and half from clay-heavy northern vineyards at 330 meters in elevation, giving it both weight and dimension. This structured and deeply flavored Brunello is produced in 15,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPYouthfully backward in the glass, the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne requires some coaxing to unleash its array of dried black cherries, mentholated herbs, cinnamon sticks and crushed stone. It is seamlessly silky smooth and supple, with depths of chocolate-laced wild berry fruits contrasted by a tactile mineral core. Fresh acidity wins the day as the 2021 finishes with cheek-punching tension, structured yet not severe, while leaving a tart berry twang.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Sangiovese blend ‘horizontal’ with two crus, Canalicchio and Montosoli, and plants over 10 years old, completed by great cellar accuracy. Olfaction with gardenia and wild sage, red plum and nuances of licorice root. Savoury to taste, floral memory.Luca Gardini | 98+ LGThe classic 2021 Brunello from Canalicchio di Sopra entices with its fragrance of lavender, eucalyptus, dark spice and red plum. Delicious and loaded with finesse, the smooth palate offers strawberry compote, red cherry, licorice and crushed mint accompanied by taut, refined tannins. Fresh acidity and a hint of orange zest elevate the finish. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOBeautifully balanced and polished, the Canalicchio di Sopra 2021 Brunello di Montalcino shows delicate mineral notes that frame cassis, blue flower and sweet Sangiovese aromatics. The wine is taut and energetic, driven by fine tension that carries through a mid-weight palate with length and silky, well-managed tannins, resulting in an elegant yet accessible expression. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for 36 months in large Slavonian oak casks, the wine is sourced from fruit drawn across 10 hectares of vines over 10 years of age from the Canalicchio and Montosoli sites. Production totals 38,241 bottles, including larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is explosive in the glass, with waves of crushed rocks, savory herbs, nuances of split pine and dried strawberries. It communicates both juiciness and refinement, with crystalline mineral tones contrasting racy red and black fruits. The 2021 leaves the senses drenched in primary concentration as a sour twang of citrus mingles with fine tannins through the dramatically long finale. Despite having separated out the single-vineyard wines over the years, I am continually impressed with Canalicchio di Sopra’s Brunello.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of red cherries, pepper, meat and a hint of dark olives. Medium- to full-bodied, showing subtle fleshiness and precise tannins that bring focus and definition. There’s an ethereal quality, with pure, transparent red fruit and a clean, graceful finish. So approachable. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

A sleek and graceful wine with aromas of Parma violets, licorice, red fruit and a touch of mint. Full-bodied, it shows elegant tannins with freshness and well-tamed power. Amazing length, with a polished cherry pit aftertaste. Drinkable now, but intended for aging. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA layered and complex expression, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille combines dark fruit and oak with a deep plummy core accented by delicate hints of exotic spice. A precise mineral line runs through the wine and leads to fine, powdery tannins. The overall profile remains tightly wound at this young stage and will benefit from time to settle into a more integrated and complete expression. Sugarille is known to make wines with a subtle sweet-edged richness and supple yet structured tannins, shaped by soils rich in galestro and white clay that lend both age-worthy structure and mineral complexity. Production totals 9,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille bursts from the glass with masses of thyme, incense, rosemary and cedar before giving way to dried strawberries. It presents a subtle inner sweetness and elegant texture, coming across as weighty yet refined, with polished red berry fruits swirling throughout and leaving a bitter licorice tinge to linger on the palate. A complex web of fine-grained tannins flexes on the palate as a tart wild berry saturation lingers incredibly long. The 2021 is youthfully dense and tightly wound today, with the balance for a long and glorious evolution.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Sugarille was also resting in concrete when I tasted it in November of 2024. (The blend was completed in July.) It displays a darker red color and is deeper and more layered on the nose, with darker cherry fruit liqueur, sappy herbs, and fresh earth. It’s juicy and ripe at this early stage, with very nice balance, ripe tannins, a full, rounded feel, and a deeper mineral richness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the Fattoria Le Pupille 2023 Saffredi represents a classic expression from a fresh vintage that ultimately performed far better than expected despite mid-season mildew pressure. The estate continues to refine its use of wood to emphasize brightness and fruit purity, a shift that is especially evident here. The wine shows notes of dark cherry, ripe blackberry, spice and hints of creamy chocolate. While the 2022 vintage emphasized harder tannins, this vintage is defined by generosity and luscious fruit. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular appears crunchy, youthful and fresh, giving the wine energy and forward momentum.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP