Wine Ratings

wines

Even in this super-ripe vintage Figeac retains its usual red bell pepper aroma (from the cabernet sauvignon grape) and that adds a light touch to the opulent fruit cake and spice character. The full fine tannins beautifully support the rich palate and make the finish very long and plush. A great 2009! Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 97 JSDistinctive, with atypical (for St.-Emilion) force and drive to the black currant, roasted cedar and maduro tobacco flavors, which are supported by a dense, loam-tinged structure. Terrific roasted espresso, ganache and fig paste notes wait in reserve. Very muscular, but with the cut for balance. Best from 2017 through 2035. 9,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThis is quite a luscious full-bodied Figeac, brimming with black cherry, cassis, raspberry, and other black fruits. Aeration releases an array of spices that adds to its seductive style, with a peppery top note coming from Cabernet Franc. Magnificent depth on the palate with underlying energy and tension. What is remarkable is how subtle and fresh the wine remains despite its strength of character. (Drink between 2022-2040)Decanter | 96 DECA ripe year like 2009 is kind to the Cabernet Sauvignon of Château Figeac. The wine is perfumed with new wood and sweet fruits, delicious black currant flavors giving both ripeness and freshness. The wine has weight and impressive density. A star of the vintage.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2009 Château Figeac is the normal blend of close to equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a beautiful wine that has classic Figeac style, yet is more reserved and backward than most in the vintage. Forest floor, truffle, blackcurrants, cigar ash and green tobacco notes all emerge from this full-bodied, ripe, yet pure, elegant Saint-Emilion that has good acidity and plenty of length. The tannins are ripe, yet firm, it’s nicely balanced, and it blossoms with time in the glass. Nevertheless, it needs another 4-5 years of cellaring to hit prime time, and it should keep for 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe medium garnet colored 2009 Figeac features a very pretty perfume of rose hip tea, lilacs and cinnamon stick over a core of red and black currant preserves plus hints of dried herbs and sweaty saddles. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers bags of savory fruit layers with plenty of floral sparks, framed by rounded tannins, finishing on a earthy note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2009 Figeac is a gorgeous wine that is really coming into its own. It has quite a precocious bouquet with wild strawberry, blood orange, fig jam, marmalade and gravelly aromas courtesy of the Cabernets. There is real depth on what is quite lush aromatics. The palate is beautifully balanced, very pure with a velvet texture, plenty of ripe red fruit, white pepper, clove, blood orange and kirsch notes, building wonderful towards a powerful yet controlled finish. This is drinking supremely well now, but it will cruise at high altitude for a number of years. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 94 VM(Château Figeac) I had not seen the 2009 Figeac since the En Primeur barrel tastings in April of 2010, and I was happy to see that it has found its way into bottle with its character intact. This is a very ripe, plush and powerful vintage of Figeac, and at our Washington tasting, it was served at the end of the vertical and may have not shown at its best in the context of following several mature or maturing vintages. In any case, this broad-shouldered Figeac offers up a very ripe and opulent nose of black cherries, a touch of black raspberry, chocolate, sweet nutskins, Cuban tobacco, smoke and nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very plush on the attack, with a fine core of thick fruit, ripe, beautifully-integrated tannins and excellent length and grip on the powerful and succulent finish. After wines such as the ’98, ’95 and ’86, this comes across as quite fruit-driven in style- which may simply be a function of such a young wine following on the heels of wines starting to approach maturity- but there is little doubt that the 2009 Figeac is one of the top successes of the vintage. I had initially thought that this might age along the lines of the fine 1982 Figeac, but it seems likely that this will always be a more powerful wine that will not be able to replicate the beautiful elegance of the velvety 1982. That said, the 2009 Figeac is still a beautifully made wine, but stylistically, I much prefer the classic 2008, even if the two vintages are not that dissimilar in terms of absolute quality. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 93 JG

Elegant and complex, this gorgeous wine is all about finesse, offering enticing aromas of rose petal, iris, perfumed berry, baking spice, anise and chopped aromatic herb. The structured but silky palate seamlessly melds together juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, clove, licorice and tobacco while bright acidity and ultra-fine tannins provide the framework. It’s already tempting and impeccably balanced but will be even better in a few years. Drink 2018¬–2030. Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOElegant and complex, this gorgeous wine is all about finesse, offering enticing aromas of rose petal, iris, perfumed berry, baking spices, anise and chopped aromatic herbs. The structured but silky palate seamlessly melds together juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, clove, licorice and tobacco while bright acidity and ultrafine tannins provide the framework. It’s already tempting and impeccably balanced but will be even better in a few years. Drink 2018–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEMauro Mascarello does not disappoint with his stunning 2010 Barolo Monprivato. This is an impeccable expression from Castiglione Falletto that imparts an immense sense of purity and elegance. The bouquet opens slowly to reveal pressed flower, cola, dried ginger, forest fruit and balsam herb. This is a magnificent expression of Nebbiolo that changes and shifts each time you come back to contemplate its aromas. That magical fluidity is also present in the mouth. The wine presents silky tannins and crisp fruit flavors. Given the sheer quality on display now, you can count on Barolo Monprivato to continue a slow and successful evolution in your cellar. This is a true beauty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPStarts out elegant and perfumed, sporting cherry and berry flavors, picking up earth, licorice, leather and spice notes. This is all about the silky texture and civilized tannins that should come together in the next few years. Spice and earth accents line the finish. Best from 2017 through 2033. 1,870 cases made. Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Aromas of black currants, violets, lavender, and stone follow through a full body, chewy tannins and toned muscular structure. This is a Mondavi reserve that harkens back to the great years of the 1970s. A tribute to the 50th anniversary of the winery. Try in 2022.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve from the To Kalon Vineyard celebrates the 50th anniversary of the great Robert Mondavi and his extraordinary vision to create something special in the heart of Napa Valley. A beautifully polished wine, with a dense ruby/purple color, it is still tightly knit and showing high-quality oak. The wine is full-bodied and rich, with outstanding depth, ripeness and purity. There is plenty of backbone and tannin for 25-30 years of cellaring. The wine shows notes of chocolate and plenty of blackcurrant fruit and blackberry. This is a beauty and certainly a great reserve and worthy homage to the legendary Robert Mondavi. Give it another 2-4 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 30 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA wine marking the 50th anniversary of Robert Mondavi Winery's founding, this shows the grandeur of the man, the vineyard and the vintage. Full bodied and robust, it's intense in bark, tar and black licorice, with dottings of coconut. Aromatically inviting, it's dusty and soft, with acres of complexity and structure. Enjoy it in 2023 and beyond.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEA defining element of the greatness of Napa Valley’s 2013 vintage is apparent in the wines that were not pushed and hyper-extracted: They show their provenance with clarity. This wine does not lack for extract, but carries it with the effortless grace of a classic Oakville Cabernet. Geneviève Janssens selected the fruit for this Reserve from her favored blocks at To Kalon, Mondavi’s estate vineyard behind the winery in the western benchlands of Oakville; this vintage comes from blocks replanted between 1996 and 2000. The black plum fruit is almost tarry in its warm, smoky tannins, but there’s a red core that emerges, a pungent center that darkens and deepens at the edges. Decant it if you open this now, to serve with dry-aged beef.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S(14.6% alcohol; this is Mondavi's 50th Anniversary bottling): Bright, saturated ruby. Very dark, highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, cassis, licorice, minerals and spices, lifted by a peppery nuance (winemaker Geneviève Janssens noted that Robert Mondavi always liked Cabernet Franc, even back in 1966). Extremely tight and savory, showing an herbal element and conveying an impression of strong acidity. This strikes me as not especially ripe in the context of the vintage but it's extremely backward today. Finishes with big, mouth-clenching tannins and a note of youthful bitterness. Decant this if you plan to open it in its youth--or, better yet, forget it in the cellar for six or seven years. This large-scaled but rather opaque wine is almost painful today but holds out considerable potential and may ultimately merit a significantly higher score.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Fairly deep red. Intense raspberry nose, pure and lifted, supported by elegant oak. Rich and juicy, full of upfront fruit backed by fine-grained tannins. There’s grip on the finish that bodes well for the future, yet no excessive extraction, and it’s balanced and long.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECAn overtly spicy and floral nose combines notes of various red berries with those of earth and soft wood. In contrast to the laser beam definition of a number of the prior wines here the palate feel is lush and round though there is still reasonably good detail on the powerful and intense finish where a touch of austerity serves to buffer the natural sweetness. Note that this is quite firmly structured and once again I would strongly advise against buying this unless you have the patience to store it for at least a decade.Burghound | 95 BHBright medium red. Pungent lift to the aromas of pomegranate, cranberry and flowers. Fine-grained but tightly wound, even a bit imploded today, conveying a powerful impression of energy and lift. Not an especially fleshy wine but wonderfully precise and complete, with an extremely long finish that shows more saline minerality than primary red fruits. This youthfully taut wine is going to require extended aging.Vinous Media | 94+ VMTasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a very perfumed bouquet with incense and rose petal scents filtering through the black plum and cranberry fruit. The oak here is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, touches of black olive and Japanese seaweed, leading to a structured finish with good weight, albeit one that needs time. This is a classy close-up de Bèze from Bruno Clair. Tasted September 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPMedium deep colour, a little bit sombre both in tint and on the nose. Perhaps some evolution. Or a trace of something not quite clean. Either way the fruit needs to be fresher. The concentration is there though. Modest score today but perhaps not the best sample? Others much preferred this. Tasted Sep 2017.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

There was a bit of hail damage in the Clos de la Roche this year for Monsieur Lignier (an isolated storm around the tenth of July), so between ten and fifteen percent of the crop was lost. This is too bad, as the 2014 Lignier Clos de la Roche is a stunning young wine! The bouquet is stellar, offering up scents of red and black cherries, plums, venison, cocoa, a very complex base of soil, mustard seed, woodsmoke and a gentle framing of cedary wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite primary, with a great core of ripe fruit, superb soil inflection, ripe, seamless tannins and stunning length and grip on the energetic and perfectly balanced finish. A great, great wine. (Drink between 2026 - 2075)John Gilman | 96+ JGThe 2014 Clos de la Roche is bright, focused and finely cut. Translucent and wiry in style, the 2014 speaks to precision above all else. The flavors and textures are wonderfully chiseled throughout. Red-toned fruits, chalk and floral notes abound. Today, the 2014 is fabulous. It won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, but it is terrific just the same. This is a textbook expression of Clos de la Roche.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a very refined bouquet that takes time to open, but it is worth the wait: blackberry, dried blood, limestone and a faint marine influence (perhaps oyster shell) -- all wonderfully delineated and controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite compact and dense at the moment, as well as very linear and precise; it is long in the mouth but not wishing to play around at the moment. Perhaps keeping its exuberance for later? This is an enigmatic Clos de la Roche this year from Lignier.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPAn exceptionally fresh and cool if distinctly restrained nose offers up notes of pomegranate and black berry fruit scents that are liberally laced with wisps of sauvage, earth, tea and leather. There is excellent verve and fine detail to the impressively intense and imposingly scaled flavors that are supported by markedly firm tannins on the suave, mouth coating and massively long finish. This very structured effort reminds me of some of the great old vintages made by Hubert in the late 1980s and early 1990s.Burghound | 93-95 BH

Laurent Ponsot makes one of the most beautiful examples of this very, very underrated Gevrey grand cru and the 2014 Chapelle looks likely to be one of his finest vintages ever from this terroir. The stunning nose delivers a sappy constellation of red and black cherries, raw cocoa, a touch of meatiness, mustard seed, dark soil tones and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and already quite velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, great soil inflection, suave, ripe tannins and stunning backend energy on the focused and very, very pure long finish. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGThe 2014 Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru behaved like the Griotte-Chambertin in that it needed a prerequisite two or three minutes to fire up its engines. When it did, it sprung a gorgeous floral bouquet with red roses, kirsch and blood orange, all struck through with wonderful mineralité and tension. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin. It resorts back to its broody nature. There is appreciable density here, quite tangy and spicy in the mouth with layers of red berry fruit on the very saline finish. It will require 4-5 years in bottle, but the class is here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPA super elegant nose is composed of an ultra-pure essence of red berries, violet, plum, spice and discreet floral nuances. There is excellent volume and serious punch to the delicious and tension-filled middle weight plus flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel on the lightly mineral-inflected finish. This is a beautifully complex and seamlessly well-balanced wine that should drink well young and old.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2015 Charmes-Chambertin from Jean-Marie Fourrier was also showing very well at the time of my visit. The bouquet is deep, pure and complex, offering up a very red fruity blend of strawberries, cherries, a touch of orange peel, grilled meat, a fine base of soil tones, raw cocoa and cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very refined in profile, with a lovely core, excellent backend minerality and a very long, focused and ripely tannic finish. Marvelous Charmes in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is the first release from the estate (on the negociant side). It has a slightly smudged but pure kirsch, orange blossom and strawberry-scented bouquet that gains more delineation with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp red cherry and strawberry fruit with a touch of spice on the composed and elegant finish. This is a comely Charmes-Chambertin that is certain to be seductive over the next 15-20 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP(real Charmes): Dark red. Good violet lift to the black cherry aroma. Not yet hugely complex but rich, juicy and energetic, showing attractive inner-mouth floral lift and excellent definition. At once firm and quite suave. These négociant grand crus from Gevrey were harvested up to nine days later than the Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses, noted Fourrier, but today I find a bit less energy in the Amoureuses.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA background application of wood sets off distinctly earthy, forest floor and humus-infused plum and dark currant aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the caressing, round and vibrant flavors that possess fine richness and persistence if not quite the same complexity or persistence. Even so, this is certainly a quality effort.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with blackberry, redcurrant and cranberry scents laced with tobacco and woodland aromas. Lovely definition and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, enormous depth and great concentration, perhaps the most Musigny-esque of the Bonnes-Mares. Great length but it needs some serious cellaring. Enormous potential here. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMAs usual, Clair’s Bonnes-Mares will be a wine for the long haul. A detailed nose of cassis, wild rose, currant leaf, incipient venison and a gentle framing of new oak precedes a vibrant, taut and full-bodied palate, its tannins rich but chalky, even firm. This is tight-knit and full of energy - promising for those willing to wait a good fifteen years.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECClear bright colour with a softly oaked bouquet and some weight of fruit behind. Quite an elegant wine. Not hugely concentrated on the palate but with attractive light fruit and fair length. Tasted Sep 2019.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a very stern bouquet, quite distant at first, then gradually almost reluctantly unfurling with sea-influenced black fruit, hints of brine and oyster shell in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boded tannin, foursquare for a Bonnes Mares, eschewing flamboyance for something more noble. This is certainly a more Morey-inspired Bonnes Mares than Chambolle, but nevertheless is a very fine wine of considerable breeding.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPLike the Bèze there is a moderate lashing of toasty oak framing the spiced mix of various red berries, earth and floral hints. There is even more power if not necessarily more size and weight to the big-bodied and very serious flavors that flex plenty of muscle on the superbly persistent finish. This knockout effort is even more structured than its grand cru counterpart and again, this will indisputably not be a wine for early drinking.Burghound | 93-95 BH

The 2016 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a generous and pleasing nose with scents of strawberry preserve, crushed stone, rose petals and subtle orange-blossom. This is refined and transparent. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins. Beautifully balanced, this has a symmetry that is beguiling and classic. A little austere finish suggests it will benefit from several years in bottle. Utterly beguiling with enormous ageing potential. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMClear bright purple with medium depth. A refined and stylish bouquet, this is quite special. Some white pepper notes, intense fresh raspberry fruit, really pure up front, then slightly softening at the back. Lingers very nicely though. This would have scored more highly but there is currently a caramel touch from the wood which did not dissipate. It may not be typical of the wine in general though. Tasted Sep 2019.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThe Clos de Bèze offers up a brooding and umami-laden bouquet of red and black cherry, grilled meat, dried ceps, summer truffle and wood smoke. On the palate the wine is deep and full-bodied, more solid and substantial than the Clos St-Jacques, with an ample chassis of fine-grained tannin, chewy extract and a cool core of fruit.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA bit more wood can be found on the super-spicy essence of red currant, lavender, anise and earth-suffused nose. There is first-rate volume and muscle as well as almost painful intensity to the broad-shouldered flavors that display outstanding power and focus on the delineated and hugely long finish. Like several of the wines in the range this is very much constructed for the long-term and I would advise buying this strikingly gorgeous effort only if you’re prepared to allow it at least a decade of cellaring.Burghound | 93-96 BHThe 2016 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru has perfumed strawberry and raspberry scents on the nose, a little predictable maybe after the scintillating Clos Saint-Jacques. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannin, quite masculine and structured, a slight coarseness to the tannin with a fresh finish that will require several years to unfurl. A bit of a curmudgeon at the moment although I am sure it will come good.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

The average age of the Seysses' 1.95ha holdings in the Clos de la Roche are slightly older than those of neighbouring Clos St-Denis. Using fruit from five main parcels, it's a very complete, self-confident wine with good density and concentration, sappy, spicy undertones, fine-grained fruit and tannins, and a very long, tapering finish. Drinking Window 2027 - 2035.Decanter | 97 DEC(Clos de la Roche- Domaine Dujac) I love the 2017 vintage for red Burgundy and Domaine Dujac’s Clos de la Roche has to be one of the finest wines of the vintage. The bouquet is still youthful and quite red fruity this year, but already shows lovely complexity in its blend of cherries, blood orange, beetroot, raw cocoa, a gorgeous base of soil tones, pigeon and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and very svelte in profile, with a sappy core of fruit, great balance and grip, fine-grained tannins and a long, soil-driven and dazzling finish. This is going to be a stunning wine once it is fully ready to drink! (Drink between 2032-2080)John Gilman | 96 JGDujac's 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is more reserved that the Clos Saint-Denis, unwinding in the glass with scents of red berries, plums, orange rind, cinnamon, peonies and sweet soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, serious and layered, with muscular structure, lively acids and a long, perfumed finish. While this remains a comparatively accessible, finesse-driven Clos de la Roche, at least a decade's patience will be required to see this begin to realize its potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP(Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also markedly floral in character with additional breadth from the impressively pure combination of red cherry, currant, leather and a whiff of the sauvage along with a touch of oak. The beautifully energetic and detailed flavors are much finer than usual thanks mostly to the ultra-fine grain of the tannins supporting the austere, serious and compact finish. This is a Dujac CdlR of refinement rather than one of imposing size, indeed it's almost a bit light, but even so, it is clearly constructed for the medium to longer. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 92 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru shows some charry oak barrel on the nose, just a slight hickory scent that feels out of place. It becomes smokier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a lot of stem addition that dominates the terroir expression and fruit at the moment. Well-defined and well-crafted, and it may ultimately turn into a brilliant Clos de la Roche, but that depends on how those stems are assimilated. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Exquisite from the moment we first sniffed it, the 2017 Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares is a tour de force. The colour is not extravagantly deep, but the bouquet evokes a style of ethereal Burgundy which the more powerful recent vintages will struggle to emulate. Most people’s preferred wine of the 8 Bonnes Mares presented at the Bouilland Symposia Masterclass. Tasted Dec 2021.Jasper Morris | 97 JMThe 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a lifted, perfumed and quite floral bouquet of brambly red fruit infused with wilted rose petal and a touch of blood orange. Gorgeous! The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure, a killer line of acidity and perhaps some discreet stem addition, as it is overtly peppery toward the finish. Plenty of freshness and quite linear. Classic Burgundy. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is also aromatically quite cool and elegant while weaving notes of a plethora of floral elements with those of red cherry, raspberry and warm earth. The equally large-scaled flavors possess a quite supple yet impressively dense mid-palate that contrasts markedly with the very powerful, dusty and overtly austere finale that displays a hint of dryness. At present this is somewhat strict and note well that my rating offers the benefit of the doubt that the finish will better harmonize in time. As such, this will not make for especially good early drinking.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has an open, generous bouquet of predominantly red fruit, a little earthier than its peers but still gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. It’s a little creamy in texture because of the oak, but there is plenty of fruit here and an almost sorbet-like freshness on the finish. Blimey... this surpasses all expectations and is contender for wine of the vintage. Brilliant. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 98 VMSome intensity of colour, more crimson than purple. Lifted spicy nose, quite interesting. Indeed this Chambertin-Clos de Bèze gains in complexity very quickly. Keep sniffing this. There is some dark berry fruit, with a gorgeous sensuality, a little pepperiness, so much detail, the intensity is lightly worn, a beauty. Tasted Sep 2021.Jasper Morris | 98 JMBruno Clair owns 1ha of Clos de Bèze, which is quite a lot given how extensive Pierre Damoy’s holdings are in the grand cru. This is a comparatively subtle, gentle wine rather than a late-picked blockbuster, with attractive 40% new wood, some chalky zip and nuanced red fruit sweetness.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECAn overtly floral, more elegant and airier nose displays a striking array of spice elements on the red and dark currant, herbal tea, earth and lavender scents. Here too the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sophisticated while displaying plenty of punch on the youthfully austere finale that also flashes a touch of bitter fruit pit character. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 93 BH

The Drouhins’ holdings cover 0.5ha of this grand cru on both red and white soils. It’s another very impressive wine from a domaine that’s right at the top of its game under the new generation. Made with 25% whole bunches and 80% new wood, it’s a very complete expression of the grand cru with plenty of intensity and coiled power, some good underlying grip and a sappy, spicy, vanilla finish.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very expressive bouquet with violet-tinged blackberry and boysenberry fruit, well defined and quite precise. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, taut and linear for a Bonnes-Mares but the coiled-up energy is palpable here. There is such energy on the finish that you know that this will turn into an exceptionally fine Bonnes-Mares. Recommended.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM80% new wood 25% whole bunch vinification. Bonnes Mares has bounced back well from the 2016 frost. Rich purple, a certain sumptuous note to the wine, this has huge energy and a crystalline crunch, this has been judged just right. Good tannins to provide structure, fully ripe fruit but still with energy. Tasted Dec 2018.Jasper Morris | 92-96 JMThe fruit is dominated by reductive notes and there is a trace of the funk on the palate where there is otherwise good density and volume to the sappy mocha-infused if somewhat awkward finish. Normally when I find reduction on the palate it’s never a good sign (and I rarely rate such wines) but in this case my sense is that a thorough aeration will be sufficient to dissipate it. Still, I’m adding a question mark to my projected range as a cautionary sign.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Simply put, Christian Moueix’s Napa Valley project Ulysses is a wine every collector of Napa Cabernet should have in their cellar. The 2021 release of the Oakville red is a knockout that is never too bombastic, entirely reserved even in its generosity, and one that will last a very long time. A dry winter and spring led to the second consecutive year of a drought that began in January 2020. Temperatures were warm and consistent and slightly above average. The vines produced smaller clusters of small berries with high phenolic compounds and tannin levels. 1,400 cases produced. Opaque purple-ruby to the rim. A wine showing all the best qualities you’d expect from a prime Oakville site. This is a beautifully balanced red, imbued with a tremendously fresh streak of acidity. The nose leads with prime, ripe, dark black fruits, cassis, violets, creme de menthe, and crushed slate.—medium to full-bodied with impressively fashioned tannins that are robust and build through the extravagantly long finish. Marked by ripe black cherry and spiced plum notes, the length is extended by zesty blood orange acidity. Fragrant with sage and thyme, nuanced by brighter cherry blossom freshness and mineral tension. Impressive depth and density with a core of pure, ripe, and juicy fruit. Exceptional. This was the last wine in a complete vertical tI tasted with Moueix and winemaker Tod Mostero in a tasting room tucked within the barn on the Ulysses Vineyard site. ’I’m thrilled,’ commented Moueix, ’There’s a real dignity to the wines.’ Moueix said that until this tasting, he hadn’t quite noticed the style signature but found it emerging, though cautioned, ’Even with our experience next door at Dominus, we are still figuring it out.’ For Mostero, ’Making these has been a discovery of place. With our mature vines, we’re just beginning to get a sense of the true resonance of the place. The 2021 typifies what we can expect. This arrow-like structure that is piercing, resonant, and strong.’Decanter Magazine | 99 DECThe reserved plushness comes out clearly with brightness, focus and very creamy tannins that give it muscle and tension. Juicy and flavorful but not overdone. Energetic and flexing but in a friendly way. Plums, milk chocolate, terra cotta and nutmeg. Almost all cabernet sauvignon with a touch of cabernet franc and petit verdot. Give it four or five years to soften. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is a huge, dense wine. Copious dark fruit, menthol, licorice, plum, espresso and spice are amplified in a large-scale, ample Oakville Cabernet. The 2021 is very much a wine of power and structure. Sepia-toned notes lend darkness, while the oak imprint also appears to be quite present at this stage. Even so, the wine exudes balance but in a pretty extroverted style, especially compared to Dominus.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, with around 5% Cabernet Franc in the blend, is opaque purple-black in color. It storms out of the glass with powerful scents of blackcurrant cordial, plum preserves, star anise, iris bulb, and dark chocolate plus suggestions of camphor, cedar chest, and crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers a sold line of firm grainy tannins and bold freshness to frame the energetic black fruit layers, finishing long and fragrant. 1,400 cases were made.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThere are 1,400 cases of the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, which offers up charming red-fruited notes of cherries and redcurrants, plus some loamy-earth scents. While it comes across a bit more angular and more coarsely textured than its sister wines Dominus or Napanook, it also seems a bit lighter in body despite also weighing in at 15% alcohol. It’s impressively complete and balanced overall, adding savory, mocha-tinged notes on the lingering finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

An astonishing expression of the new spirit of Beaujolais, this has the depth and finesse of a great Grand Cru red burgundy married to the vitality and purity that only this region can achieve. The mind-blowing, velvety texture is interwoven with amazing crushed-rock and wet-stone minerality on the expansive palate. The exceptionally long finish, at once firm and precise, just doesn’t want to stop. From a five- hectare block in the Aux Caves site. 20% whole-cluster fermented. Matured for almost a year in used Burgundian oak casks. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Coeur de Vigneronne has a bouquet even more elegant than the 2022. Pure black cherry, cassis and pressed violet petal scents percolate through with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and lightly spiced, with smooth, pliant tannins. Like other vintages, this is not a subtle or understated Moulin-à-Vent, but this is so pure and seductive that it’s difficult to resist. You have been warned!Vinous Media | 92 VM

Hold onto your hat. This is an extraordinarily seductive expression of Moulin-a-Vent. Dense and compact but also incredibly plush and dynamic, it makes a huge statement, a bit like meeting the goddess of black cherries. Interlocking fine tannins and remarkable minerality in the dazzling, almost endless finish. From totally destemmed fruit. Cold maceration for four days. Long fermentation. Aged 11 months in used Burgundian barrels. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSMade from 100% destemmed fruit and aged for 11 months in barrels (10% new), the 2023 Moulin-à-Vent La Rochelle is suave on the palate, layered with complex notes of stewed black cherries, licorice, black pepper, confit orange and spice. Full-bodied, the wine opens with a rounded, velvety profile that gracefully tapers, shaped by well-integrated, smooth-coated tannins, ascending toward a refined, complete finish. This is another beautiful effort from Anita.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2023 Moulin-à-Vent La Rochelle was very reduced on the nose, although there are black plummy fruit aromas coiled up here. The palate is plush and luxurious. Its acidity counters the richness of the 2023 acts more like a 2022! Kirsch and blood orange notes arise toward the finish as it gradually fans out. This is an intense Gamay that requires a couple of years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91 VM