Wine Ratings

wines

Granito is an exciting new wine from one of the key figures in the renaissance of Garnacha in Riojoa, aged in two different containers made from the eponymous rock. Stony, fine and complex, it marries raspberry and red cherry flavours with fine tannins and a mineral core. 2023-30Tim Atkin | 95 TA

Most of the Pena El Gato range is wooded, but this one was fermented and aged in a day amphora. Sourced from the same 1917 vineyard as the Vinas Centenarias bottling, it’s earthy, firm and complex, with sappy tannis and plum and bramble fruit. 2023-30Tim Atkin | 94 TA

The 2021 Post-Crucifixión is from an ancient plot of 0.25 hectares planted with a field blend of Mencía and plenty of Galician varieties—Merenzao, Brancellao, Palomino or Godello in Santalla del Bierzo. The cooler 2021 delivered a wine with only 12% alcohol and lots of freshness. It fermented with 100% full clusters that were foot trodden in clay tinajas with a long maceration and aged 18 months in used 500-liter French oak barrels. Here, they have quite a lot of Merenzao (or Trousseau) that, in this cooler year, seems to mark the wine quite a lot, with perfumed and elegant floral aromas. It’s ethereal and elegant, very fine-boned. This is more in line with the 2018 than the 2019, with the personality and perhaps a little more depth and complexity but still quite ethereal. Superb! They have closed the vineyards so they don’t get the wild boards that use to eat a lot of grapes; so in the future, there might be a little more wine. Only 593 bottles were filled in June 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

All of the wines from 2021 have considerably less alcohol than the counterparts from 2020, reflecting the much cooler condition of the year. The 2021 Encrucijada has a moderate 12% alcohol and retained very good acidity. It’s perfumed and elegant; the plants are happier after being recovered from being abandoned, and the cool vintage lifted the wine up. It’s fresh, tightly wound, very tasty and fine, with elegant tannins. It has to be the most elegant and balanced vintage of Encrucijada so far. 1,700 bottles were filled in October 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

Juan António Ponce told me 2021 is one of those vintages when you realize in wine you never know everything... He thinks the 2021 Clos Lojen is the most complete vintage ever for this wine, with unusual freshness (despite "normal" parameters like a pH of 3.7 and five grams of acidity) and 12% alcohol. It’s intense and has varietal Bobal typicity with good weight. It fermented in 4,500-liter oak vats with 100% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in 4,500-, 10,000- and 15,000-liter French oak vats for six months. This is sharp and austere, with lower alcohol and is more mineral than fruit-driven. Incredible value. 60,000 bottles produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThis is a bobal with clarity and silken length, even as its scent fills the head with purple grape skins and bergamot spice. Friendly, in search of a chill for a summer night, this is a by-the-case buy.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 90 W&S

The bread-and-butter wine here is the 2021 Bela, produced with Tempranillo from the village of Villalba de Duero (mentioned on the label), from sandy and clay rich soils on limestone mother rock that delivers powerful but not overripe wines with a short-ish élevage to achieve a fine-boned and fresh wine. The grapes were picked between October 1st and 25th, mostly Tempranillo but some 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot too, and it matured in French oak barrels for nine months. The wine has 14.3% alcohol, a pH of 3.57 and close to five grams of acidity, textbook parameters from the zone and textbook profile of classical Ribera; it’s ripe without excess, with very integrated oak and a velvety palate with silky tannins. It reminds me of the historical wines from the early 1990s, Valribeño and so on, with some rusticity but very honest and characterful. With time in the glass, it develops a precise note of licorice intermixed with berry fruit and some spices and herbs. They feel this is the wine they wanted to produce from the beginning; they consider it their best vintage to date irrespective of the style of the year, with 2019 more powerful, 2020 more elegant and this 2021 something in between. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

This is the fourth vintage of Sandra Bravo’s brilliant old-vine Garnacha from Rivas de Tereso and it’s every bit as good as its predecessors. Aged in 300-litre clay amphoras, it’s wonderfully perfumed and intense, with engaging bramble and red cherry fruit sweetness, tannins and a long, energetic palate. 2023-32Tim Atkin | 96 TA

The 2021 Las Gravas contains grapes from a vineyard planted in 2006 (that already contributed to the 2020), and it has given the wine a fine-boned profile, with more freshness and varietal Monastrell notes, a rustic-elegant feeling. It keeps the incredible quality level of the 2020, with Jumilla typicity; it’s Mediterranean, powerful and energetic, with balanced 15% alcohol and a chalky, rocky, stony sensation in the finish. This always contains some 8% to 12% Garnacha. Production has grown to 37,905 (numbered) bottles. It was bottled in June 2023, as they did a longer élevage. This matured 100% in oak foudre; they abandoned the 500-liter barrels for this wine and for Pie Franco.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

The vino de paraje from A Serra in Dragonte 2021 Paixar is as good as ever, with the austerity of the slate slopes and the old vines that deliver low yields of concentrated and characterful grapes. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and a very fresh sensation on the palate beyond analysis. The vineyards are in the process to obtain organic certification. 6,500 bottles produced. This is one of the most elegant vintages for this wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAs I have mentioned in the past, Paixar is Luna Beberide’s oldest vine cuvée, with these Mencía vines ranging from eighty-five to one hundred years of age! The vineyard is a south-facing hillside of weathered slate and the wine is now raised entirely in one wine casks during its élevage. The 2021 Paixar is a superb wine in the making, delivering a complex aromatic constellation of black raspberries, graphite, pomegranate, tree bark, grilled meats, a gorgeous base of slate minerality, espresso, woodsmoke and a touch of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very elegant on the attack, with a superb core of black fruit, impressive transparency and grip, ripe, fine-grained tannins and impeccable balance on the long, focused and complex finish. This is so well-balanced that it is not hard to drink today, but in reality, this is still a young wine and it is infanticide to even contemplate drinking it now, as there is so much more to unfold here with some extended cellaring. This may well be the finest young wine I have yet tasted from Luna Beberide, and I have been a fan of this fine Bierzo estate for a decade now! (Drink between 2031 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGA firm, medium-bodied red, with an herbaceous overtone of Mediterranean scrub and crushed pine accenting flavors of tangy blackberry and black plum as well as mineral and spice undertones. Fragrant on the fresh finish, with lingering floral herb and spice notes. Best from 2025 through 2033. 700 cases made, 175 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The young unoaked Mencía, the eponymous 2022 Merayo is varietal and juicy, with notes of licorice, wild berries, flowers and herbs. It has a moderate 13.28% alcohol and a velvety mouthfeel. It’s from old vines and was fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and kept in tank for two to three months. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled unoaked in March 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPFresh, fragrant nose of red berries, sour cherries and some stemmy herbs. This is juicy and medium-bodied on the palate with a vibrant, crunchy feel to the simple red berry fruit. Juicy and easy finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS