Wine Ratings

wines

Wonderful nose of flint and grilled baguette with a touch of acacia. So energetic and racy, this is a strong argument for the greatness of Saint-Aubin. Excellent concentration in spite of being only medium-bodied. Long, driving, mineral finish. Very limited production. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

The Grand Vin 2022 Clos Apalta checks in as 68% Carménère, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Merlot that spent two years in 70% new French oak. Smoking notes of black raspberries, leafy herbs, iron, and violet carry to a brilliantly balanced, seamless, medium to full-bodied red that has ultra-fine tannins, integrated acidity, and a great finish. It’s an absolutely sensational red from this team that comes close to topping out my scale. I love it today yet see no reason it shouldn’t evolve for 15+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThe carmenere character is more obvious and confidently transparent this year, but in a really complex and layered way. Cedar, black olives, graphite, paprika and hints of pepper and iodine. It’s well rounded, with a light sanguine note to the ripe fruit. The tannins are fine-grained yet polished. The lengthy finish doesn’t want to stop. 68% carmenere, 22% cabernet sauvignon and 10% merlot. Drink from 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2022 Clos Apalta is 68% Carménère, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot from Apalta. This aged primarily in French oak vats with 10% of the blend in 225-liter Bordeaux barrels. It opens with black fruit, a delicate ash note, underbrush, boldo and gentle spice over subtle oak. Blueberry, blackberry and sour cherry aromas complete the aromatic profile. On the palate, this is dry for the house style, with medium structure, refined grip and juicy flow. The finish is long and finely tuned. This vintage offers a more restrained version of Clos Apalta. It’s less opulent than usual but with captivating nuance and poise. The 2022 is a terroir-driven response to a cooler year.Vinous Media | 98 VMGorgeous nose, pixelated, not shouting but lovely expressions of dried herbs, toast, some sweet spices, blackcurrant and crystalline blue fruit and lead pencil. Broad and structured but so graceful with delicate and grippy tannins that fill the mouth and leave a coating of powdery, graphite edge chalkiness. Compact but sculpted, you can feel the muscles here with both ripe and cooling elements. Precise and characterful. Juicy as well as mouthwatering with a depth that is so captivating. Linear and straight but still with grip and intensity. A knockout wine! Ageing 21 months in 73% new oak, 27 two-year-old French oak 225l barrels. 3.78pH. Cooler and drier conditions than in 2021 with lots of sun and light and excellent sanitary conditions although 35% lower yields. Harvested on March 11.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA particularly pretty and floral expression of Clos Apalta, the 2022 Clos Apalta is beautifully lush and expressive on the nose, combining a deep core of black and blue fruit aromas with pencil lead, camphor and bramble accents, developing dried purple flower notes that continue to gain volume with aeration. The palate displays the house’s quintessentially lavish yet graceful style before concluding with a long, staining, and saturated finish that blends sweet fruits with a toasty, oak-driven backbone, polished tannins and bright acidity. As always, this is quite a stylized expression of Apalta but one that retains a sense of nuance. This blend of 68% Carménère, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot fermented and aged in a mix of barrique, puncheon and large cask.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

Pure and airy aromas of mineral reduction, essence of pear, just sliced apple, acacia blossom and a whiff of spice are trimmed in admirably subtle wood. The lively and overtly stony medium weight flavors are sleek to the point of being almost glossy on the youthfully austere, compact and built-to-age finale. This is really quite classy.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2022 Sylvaner is coy in the glass, evolving with a delicate bouquet of candied citrus offset by wild herbs and crushed rocks. It’s soft and soothing with ripe orchard fruits propelled by zesty acidity as a savory spiciness mounts toward the close. The 2022 tapers off with unexpected depth and youthful tension, leaving a tinge of sour lime and saline flourish to fade slowly.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is clearly one of the successes in the vintage. With a deep purple hue as well as gorgeous aromatics of ripe blackcurrants, darker chocolate, roasted herbs, and graphite, it hits the palate with a medium to full-bodied texture, a round, layered, elegant mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s a classic, ripe, textured, stunningly balanced 2022 that will drink beautifully over two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96+ JDJust bottled, the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is an attractive wine. Crushed flowers, red cherry, red plum, lavender and spice open nicely. The 2022 shows the mid-weight structure of the year, with fine balance and an understated personality that is typical of this vintage. Readers will find an enjoyable wine but one that clearly lacks the dimension and dynamic energy of the very finest vintages.Vinous Media | 93 VMOffers a dark plum and warmed cassis core coated with melted black licorice, all backed by burnished alder and walnut husk accents. A spectre of scorched earth lurks on the finish, but with the fruit to handle it. An admirable effort. Drink now through 2036. 550 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

From blue marls with a high share of calcium and magnesium and aged in doppelstücks (2,400 liters), the 2022 Ried Zieregg Kår GSTK is spectacularly deep, intense and ripe on the saline and enormously mineral as well as lemony (and yeasty) nose. Full-bodied, enormously saline and mineral on the palate, this is an intense and bitter, all in all still abstract but tensioned and saline or mineral Ziregg with huge complexity and aging potential. Tasted as a sample in April 2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThis shows wildly dark, spicy and smoky aromas of tobacco, ash, black currants, ginseng, kaffir lime leaves and citrus brightness. It’s medium- to full-bodied with deep, salty and spicy intensity. Very long, tense and savory. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2022 from Chasse-Spleen is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. An elegantly framed aromatic profile here, smoky, dark, delicately peppery, with a rather elegantly defined and crystalline core of fruit encased within, the combination nothing short of enticing. The palate follows up with a highly polished and coherent composition, with elegantly polished substance, plenty of fresh energy, with a firm and grippy backbone of tannin providing some grip, but it is the upper layers of currant, liquorice and damson fruits which remain dominant. The tannins give great support though, firm but appropriate, and they linger long into the finish. An impressive Chasse-Spleen, combining floral and perfumed individuality with density and structure;it will need a long time to come around. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 13.4%.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIAn excellent Chasse-Spleen that shows fine sweet spices and creamy yet vibrant plums and cassis. Lovely precision, with minerals and berries on the palate. Bright and refined, with dense, chalky tannins and a lengthy finish. Drink from 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSJuicy and fleshy, this has a soft bouncy core of ripe blackcurrant fruit with menthol, spiced herb and clove accents. Tannins are grippy in just the right places and this has a wide and open mouthfeel. It’s on the plush side in terms of texture but maintains a cool and fresh core. Enjoyable. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2022 Chasse-Spleen presents a promising, quite burly bouquet with blackberry, bilberry and hints of marmalade unfolding in the glass. The palate is fresh on the entry with grippy tannins. It feels a little stricter than it did in barrel, showing more austerity on the finish, but I appreciate the tension and ample length. Give this time to prove itself.Vinous Media | 92+ VMThe 2022 Chasse-Spleen offers up aromas of sweet plums, berries and licorice, framed by a deft touch of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, with lively acids and powdery tannins, it’s taut and youthfully structured, exhibiting a touch less immediate charm than I anticipated en primeur.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RPRipe currants, spicy oak, graphite, and leather notes all define the 2022 Château Chasse-Spleen, another Moulis that has beautiful richness and depth. It’s medium-bodied, nicely balanced, has fine tannins, and outstanding length. This outstanding Moulis is based on 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 40% new barrels. It should have 20 years of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

The wide spectrum of citrus, crisp pear and stone fruit aromas announces a remarkable achievement for an entry-level wine. Excellent depth on the racy, medium-bodied palate where the chalky minerality beautifully counterpoints the cool fruit. Crisp, long finish with so much vitality. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2022 Riesling is from countless vineyards between Scherwiller in the north and the Vallé Noble in the south and mainly based on marl limestone soils. The nose is clear, fresh and intensely aromatic and even displays some Muscat and herbal/stony aromas, which makes it more than just Riesling. On the palate, this is a dry but round and textured, quite rich, intense and powerful yet certainly elegant, savory and stimulating Riesling with food-friendly grip, salts and tension on the crisp finish. 12.8% alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPTrimbach’s basic Riesling shows the producer’s long experience and know-how with the grape variety. After being handpicked, the grapes were vinified in stainless steel and bottled quickly under screwcap. The wine then aged for a year in bottle before release. It’s a classic expression, youthful and fresh but with a hit of petrol on the nose as the wine starts to mature and evolve. Aromatic with juicy and tangy lime zestiness, bone dry and very moreish. Very well priced too.Decanter Magazine | 91 DECThe 2022 Riesling is blended from the estate and bought fruit from across Alsace with a sizeable portion of Grand Cru vineyards, plus the fruit from young estate vines and Grands Cru fruit that was brought in, mostly from limestone soils, but with some sandstone and volcanic elements. A lovely crackle of flint blends with a touch of chamomile and radiant dried lemon notes, making for an aromatic nose. The palate is juicy, bouncing with energy, with a slight astringency as of citrus peel and pith that bundles this exuberance. The 2022 shows gorgeous tension, lovely dryness and oh so much energy. (Bone-Dry)Vinous Media | 90 VM

Bottled in late July. Pale lemon colour. A pure and fresh bouquet, mostly white fruit. Particularly stony this year behind a raft of white apple fruit, plenty of energy, starting to soften at the back. Middleweight plus, quite attractive. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

TOP VALUE Jessiaume is using the 2ha of domaine vines it recently recovered from a sharecropping contract to produce this lovely wine with aromatic raspberry fruit and a floral edge. Supple and approachable, with a pleasant sweetness to the fruit, structure and freshness. A noticeable step up from the other village-level bottlings. Organic.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThis red Santenay has a crisp acidity, but there’s excellent concentration and finely nuanced red-fruit aromas that easily balance this. Cool and elegant on the medium-bodied palate, where the fine-grained tannins, fruit and freshness neatly interlock. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2022 Santenay La Cassière has a pleasant bouquet with wild strawberry and raspberry fruit and some judicious and prudent use of new oak (20%). The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, more harmonious, and unlike the Vieilles Vignes, the finish has more substance. Drink over 4-6 years.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMFrom a plot below La Maladière, recovered by the domaine in 2021. An attractive lighter purple colour. This is an elegant style of Santenay. Quite nuanced, pleasing light red fruits, enough acidity and good length. Very far from rustic! Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM

This bright, savory white has aromas of pineapple, salted olives, lemon rind, wild herbs and salted crackers. So fresh, minerally and saline, with a medium body and wonderful meadow-herb freshness. Electric. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2022 Ried Grassnitzberg Riff 1STK Sauvignon Blanc is enormously aromatic on the nose, with passion fruit, papaya and ripe, lush peach aromas. Full-bodied, intense and fresh on the palate, with remarkable finesse and purity and highly stimulating salinity with tonic lemon notes, this is a beautifully distinctive Sauvignon Blanc from east/southeast-facing terraces climbing from 330 to 399 meters above sea level (inclination: 33% to 40%). The wine is remarkably light, finessed and elegant and thoroughly Styrian in its coolish and even herbal character. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at 1,450 meters above sea level in Lech/Arlberg in August 2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

A lovely, rich and supple Bourgogne Blanc, with aromas of ripe apple, nectarine and white blossoms. The texture is silky and delicate, yet there is impressive extract that will make for perfect drinking over the next several years. The grapes come from 5ha spread over eight parcels. Paul Delorme was delighted with the results, particularly the moderate alcohol and crisp acidity. A marvellous introduction to the domaine.Decanter Magazine | 93 DEC

Aromas of lemons, pie crust and a salty, minerally edge. Austere yet voluminous, incisive and saline, it shows a medium- to full-bodied structure, with an attractive interplay of freshness and nervy texture that drives the finish. This comes from a vineyard planted on decomposed gneiss soil in Sanxenxo. This wine should evolve beautifully with time in the bottle. Already drinkable. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe nose of the 2022 Leirana O Pradiño is very expressive and complex, different, with notes of quince, smoke and citrus, and the palate is marked by the soils, beautifully textured, tasty and long, with great balance, a little more volume and a harmonious finish. It comes from a single vineyard in the village of Sanxenxo. The wine matured for 12 months in a 600-liter barrel. 750 bottles were produced. It was bottled in August 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2022 Albariño Leirana O Pradiño, from Salnés, Rías Baixas, is planted on gneiss soils with ample sun exposure. Golden in color, it reveals resin and ripe stone fruit aromas. Compact on the palate, it shows intense freshness, a creamy mid-palate and a lingering saline finish. Refined and distinctive.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The Beaux Monts from Hudelot-Noëllat is another level of richness and depth in 2022, with a pronounced mulberry and fig fruit aroma touched with earth, smoke and spice. The wine is dense and tannic, impressively muscular for this appellation. One can only imagine the secret is the old vines and judicious punching down; Van Canneyt farms 0.3 hectares at the top of the slope; otherwise, it is a cool terroir. The grapes were partially destemmed and firmly punched down before ageing in cask (25% new).Decanter Magazine | 95 DECRuby purple in colour, with an intensity on the nose well ahead of its predecessors. The Beaumonts goes into the mouth discreetly, then blossoms, offering summer pudding fruits with vivacious acidity, an excellent balance here. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMAromas of plums, red berries, orange zest, exotic spices and potpourri preface the 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts, a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered wine with a concentrated core of fruit that’s framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It’s pure and complete.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts 1er Cru has red and black fruit, plus a touch of shucked oyster shell and Japanese nori. Impressive delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a pretty and relatively delicate Les Beaumonts. It is sapid and quite linear, maybe needing a little more grip on the finish. Give it 3-4 years once in bottle. Again, I think this will gain weight during its élevage.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA more deeply pitched and spicier, if perhaps slightly less elegant, nose is comprised by notes of exotic tea, sandalwood and an interesting hint of star anise. Here too the medium-bodied flavors possess a really lovely and sophisticated texture yet no lack of power on the intensely mineral-driven, dusty and youthfully austere finale. Excellent quality in an equally age-worthy package.Burghound | 91-94 BH

This exquisite wine has intense red and black fruit aromas with a floral edge and an almost salty savoury intensity. The texture is silky but tightly wound. It is commonly thought that the upper part of Suchots is superior, but this version gives that idea the lie. Here, the 100-year-old vines in the domaine’s 0.45-hectare parcel make the wine special, along with Van Caneyt’s very able winemaking. This wine should open well in three to five years and will undoubtedly last another 40 (at least) beyond that.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is one of the highlights of the range this year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and exotic spices and framed by a deft application of new oak, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with terrific depth, velvety tannins and a long, broad finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has an overtly floral bouquet with rose petals and violets complementing the red fruit. It’s vivacious as it was in barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy, succulent tannins and iodine touches. The finish needs a little more complexity and nerve. Tasted at the Stannary Wines dinner in London with Charles van Canneyt.Vinous Media | 92 VMOnce again the nose is wonderfully fresh and even spicier with its aromas of poached plum and liqueur-like dark pinot fruit that is also tinged with exotic tea wisps. There is noticeably better density to the caressing and seductively textured yet decided powerful flavors that brim with dry extract before concluding in a moderately austere and hugely long finale. This too is quite compact and very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHA distinguished crimson purple. The oak is a little more apparent, and the fruit a riper, fleshier raspberry. Oak continues to take a hand but the fruit stays with it. Lower acidity in the Suchots, at least by taste. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Fresh bright purple. What a radiant nose, all the heady joy of Vosne, such stylish bright ripe cherry fruit with some mixed red berries behind. Seamless texture and very long. Sheer class. Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMContaining 20% whole bunches, the 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village has a tightly wound and "correct" bouquet. It lets the Morey-Saint-Denis Village take the limelight at the moment, red and black fruit combined, a little more sous-bois than expected. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of lively, peppery red berry fruit, blood orange and a pinch of white pepper on the finish. A step up from the 2021, this will give a decade’s drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn overtly spicy nose is comprised by darker fruit that includes plum and black cherry along with violet and sandalwood hints. There is a really lovely texture to the caressing but punchy middleweight flavors that deliver equally good length on the youthfully austere and even more refined finale. This too is exceptionally good for its level.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Bize owns 2.1 hectares here, including a half-hectare of Chardonnay. The red has an explosive blackberry and wild strawberry fruit aroma with hints of fresh and dried flowers, earth, and cigar leaf. The texture is tannic and firm but less tightly-wound than the 2020s. Fermentation is done as whole clusters; the wine is aged in cask, with just 5 – 10% new. When finished, this delicious wine should be approachable earlier than some vintages have been.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Vergelesses 1er Cru has a complex and perhaps cerebral nose: dark berry fruit, black pepper, green tea and light scents of damp moss/forest floor. This unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins framing gorgeous dark berry fruit, a little peppery in style, quintessentially Savigny with a very persistent finish. Everything you want from a Savigny Premier Cru (and more).Vinous Media | 93-95 VMHalf in a foudre, half in a barrel. Pale colour with a faint green streak. The reduction is keeping the wine tense, while the fruit on the palate is immediately engaging. Ripe limes, fresh apple, a certain sensuality behind, and an excellent long finish. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMCool, fresh and bright aromas of red currant, cherry, warm earth and a hint of spice are trimmed in a plethora of floral elements. The rich, velvety and solidly voluminous flavors possess the best concentration in the range while displaying focused power on the firm, serious, moderately austere and very much built to age finale. This is a buy and forget it wine for at least 7 to 8 years.Burghound | 90-93 BH

A total of one hectare is planted in Fournaux. The vines from the top of the slope in stony soils are blended with those from the deeper clay at the base. All the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and are ageing in mainly used casks to create this wine with a bright mulberry and pomegranate fruit aroma underpinned by saline minerality and a hint of savoury game. The texture is firm with grippy tannins and good length.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Fournaux 1er Cru is more closed on the nose compared to the Grands Liards, yet it is still well-defined with black plum and bilberry fruit, intermingling with sous-bois and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s an elegant Savigny, not powerful, but armed with reassuring persistence on the white pepper-tinged finish. Lovely.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAn even fresh purple. At first there is not much nose but a little fresh raspberry fruit begins to emerge. The Fournaux 2022 delivers a rounded raspberry and strawberry fruit across the palate with sterner tannins at the finish, and still a good acid balance. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMMore somber, even brooding, aromas of various dark berries, warm earth and a touch of the sauvage enjoy a floral top note. There is notably better punch, though not better density, to the powerful and serious medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with firm tannins on the built-to-age finale.Burghound | 89-91 BH

This is the benchmark for (tank fermented, pure) Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc. The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc has sweet green pea, green apple skins, juniper, rosemary, a hint of nashi pear and layers of jasmine tea and spice. This is, as usual, very fine and spicy, with purity and textural complexity side by side. Pear skin. Pretty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPVery fresh nose with a wide spectrum of aromas, ranging from forthrightly grassy and fresh-basil notes to gooseberry, grapefruit and passion fruit, this is a juicy and elegant Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc. Long, racy finish. Drink now. Screw cap.James Suckling | 93 JS

Floral and tensioned with precision that gives it incredible brightness. It’s dreamy and energetic with purity and serenity. Full-bodied yet structured and polished. Dynamic young wine. Merlot and cabernet franc blend.James Suckling | 99-100 JSA monumental wine from the Moueix stable this year giving remarkable power and intensity, and a certain headiness that only Pomerol can do, but with a stylish presentation that offers grip and bite. Bold and intense, plush in terms of texture, but the tannins have spiced edges which gives the definition and edges, making this quite a serious and also sharp and thrilling wine. The power is there no doubt, as well as excitement and tension. Compact though, not so linear, it’s more coiled and all at the fore but still focussed, detailed and well defined. It’s a baby, but an enormous one, this will need time to really expand but this has stunning potential. 7.2ha, gravel on clay. Harvest 1-19 September.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2022 Trotanoy was picked 1-19 September. Clean and precise on the nose, yet obdurate (no surprise) and demanding that you will have to wait at least a decade. This is a Trotanoy that has resolved to keep everything up its sleeve aromatically. The palate is more compelling with its cathedral-like structure, judicious sprinkling of black pepper and its uncompromising grippy yet detailed finish. Immense…in a good way.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMSmoked earth, leather, graphite, and tobacco, as well as a massive amount of ripe red and black fruits, emerge from the 2022 Château Trotanoy, a rich, structured, powerful Pomerol with a stacked mid-palate, building tannins, and a great, great finish. It’s one of the few Pomerols that has the capacity to match what they achieved in 2018 and 2020.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDThe 2022 Trotanoy offers up rich aromas of blackberries, cherries, licorice and sweet spices, followed by a full-bodied, rich and tannic palate that’s broad shouldered, powerful and concentrated. As ever, this is the most muscular, structured, robust wine in the Mouiex portfolio, a shorter than usual maceration notwithstanding, and it will require patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-95 RP

The 2022 Rioja Blanco bottling from Sandra Bravo’s Bodega Sierra de Toloño is composed entirely from Viura (albeit, with a bit of Tempranillo Blanco co-planted in the vineyard). Ten percent of the cuvée is raised in oak, with the remainder in stainless steel and the wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a precise and complex mix of tart pear, lemon, salty soil tones, white flowers and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, young and full-bodied, with lovely depth at the core, good soil signature, zesty acids and fine focus and balance on the long and nascently complex finish. This is quite tasty out of the blocks, but will gain in complexity with some time in the cellar. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 91+ JG

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2022 Viré-Clessé Breillonde is aged two-thirds in demi-muids and the rest in stainless steel. This has a slightly cooler and more malic bouquet than the regular Viré-Clessé. There’s some reserve here, so it will demand more coaxing. The palate is well balanced with a dab of dried honey and stem ginger on the entry. Quite a pithy Viré-Clessé complex with a very keen line of acidity that cuts through the waxy finish. There’s a hint of Muscat on the aftertaste. This is a great wine, and it should age well over the next 12-15 years.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Hommage à Louis has quite a malic, green apple and Anjou pear-scented nose that unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is taut and linear, with moderate depth, clamming up slightly towards the finish compared with the Grenouilles or Valmur.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s and 1950s.Decanter | 95 DECMostly from old vines, a good half planted between 1948 and 1952. Translucent lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is not ready to unfurl yet there is a sense of sublime purity about the nose. A wine in perfect harmony on its wide bench of white fruit. Just a little touch of spice behind, good acidity. Sign up for this! Drink from 2032-2045. Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMThis is aromatically quite similar to the Côte Bouguerots but with more floral influence. The rich, big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors are also seemingly chiseled from Kimmeridgian, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent, very dry, balanced and stony finale. This is also extremely impressive and equally built to repay extended cellaring.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it doesn’t quite have the precision of Fevre’s best cuvées at the moment.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM