Wine Ratings

wines

One of the greatest wines of the vintage is, not surprisingly, from proprietor Denis Durantou. A remarkable effort in every sense, the 2006 l’Eglise Clinet is not far off the quality of the prodigious 2005. Its inky/ruby/purple color is accompanied by a powerful nose of mocha, caramelized red and black fruits, smoke, graphite, and truffle. Massive and rich with full-bodied power, excellent focus and definition, and moderately high tannin, this is an “outlier” for the vintage (as Malcolm Gladwell would say) with unbelievable length and richness. Unfortunately, patience will be essential as it needs a minimum of 5-6 years of cellaring. It will age effortlessly for three decades.Robert Parker | 96 RPThe 2006 L’Eglise-Clinet was picked 15 to 21 September and matured in 80% new oak. It has quite a deep color and a little more turbidity than other vintages. It offers brambly red fruit on the nose, secondary aromas of black tea and truffle, not as powerful as the 2009 but with fine precision. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly candied opening, more a playful l’Eglise-Clinet with finely chiseled tannins, moving towards more secondary notes of liquorice and a light marine note (seaweed?) towards the finish. Tasted at the l’Eglise-Clinet vertical at the château in April 2018.Vinous Media | 95 VMNot quite up to the soaring standards of 2005, but still there is confidence, poise and stunning depth. Sit back and feel your palate slicing through the fruit, layer by layer, getting down to clean minerality and charcoal smokiness. Don’t waste this – give it further ageing in bottle and share it with friends who will be patient through what is not the easiest of approaches. Drinking Window 2016 - 2035Decanter | 95 DECViolet, black licorice and berry aromas follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a powerful finish. Layered and rich or the vintage. Needs time to develop. Best after 2014. 1,350 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

(Château Latour à Pomerol) The 2006 Château Latour à Pomerol is a beautiful example of this underrated vintage and it is just beginning to drink with some serious generosity at age ten. The bouquet is pure and very lovely in its classic complexity, wafting from the glass in a blend of black cherries, red plums, a touch of nutskin, raw cocoa, a nice dollop of gravelly soil tones, cigar smoke and a discreet framing of cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and focused, with a fine core, lovely complexity, moderate tannins and a very long, poised and nicely soil-driven finish. This is not a blockbuster vintage of Latour à Pomerol, but it is elegant, intensely flavored and beautifully balanced and lacks for absolutely nothing. While it is quite approachable today, I would be inclined to give it just a few more years in the cellar to really blossom completely. A great sleeper. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 92 JGLicorice, chocolate and black plums all show immediately in this rich, dense wine. Sweet tannins combine with fresh tobacco smokiness over jammy, ripe fruit. This array of flavors is kept in check by the over-arching acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by scents of vitamins, smoke, black fruits, and meats, moderately high tannin, impressive concentration, and plenty of structure. Forget this 2006 for 4-5 years, and drink it over the following two decades.Robert Parker | 89-91 RPRaspberry and floral aromas follow through to a medium-to-full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a chocolate, cream and cedar aftertaste. This has mellowed with time. Best after 2012. 2,080 cases made. — JSWine Spectator | 90 WSDark red. Blackberry aroma with a slightly weedy element. Minerally and firm but on the dry side initially; with aeration this showed a silkier texture and emerging red fruit flavors. Hard to judge today.Vinous Media | 87-90 VM

As of this vintage, Pavie Macquin is entitled to a premier grand cru classe designation in the revised classification of the wines of St.-Emilion (suspended in March because of pending litigation). Overseen by the dynamic duo of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt, the 2006, a blend of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, should turn out to be one of the top wines of the vintage. It boasts an inky/blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of charcoal, blackberries, blueberries, The 2006 Château Pavie Macquin has a ripe, sensual bouquet with copious kirsch and blueberry scents, fine tension and poise, a faint whiff of boot polish in the background. The palate is very elegant on the entry, pure and supple in the mouth, succulent with vivid black cherry and dark plum notes. It is that keen line of acidity cutting through the fruit that takes this Saint Emilion to a higher level and it comes highly recommended. Tasted February 2016.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93 RP-NMThe 2006 Pavie-Macquin is a powerful, burly wine, especially in its feel. Game, smoke, leather, dark spice, chocolate and licorice add to a feeling of virile intensity. Disease pressure at the end of a cool growing season led to a compact harvest in 2006. There is good depth, but less in the way of charm and sensuality. I imagine the 2006 will always retain its somewhat rustic personality.Vinous Media | 93 VMA lovely, fresh, juicy wine that has a delightful lilt to its fruit. Red and black berries intermingle easily with a core of firm tannins. New wood is a major part of the firm texture, but never too dominant. This is a finely structured wine, already well developed. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThis has fleshed out nicely, with layers of plum and boysenberry fruit that are pure, velvety and very alluring, lined with lightly taut juniper and red licorice hints. The finish turns toward a more floral edge, with a violet note and a subtle mineral edge. This is pretty delicious now.—Non-blind Pavie Macquin vertical (December 2014). Drink now through 2020. 4,165 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 91 WS

After the fabulous 2005, Pétrus again has produced a magnificent wine in 2006, even if it doesn’t hit quite the same heights. It has an immensely powerful structure and concentration, always the hallmark of this wine. But this structure is almost masked by the superbly ripe and fresh fruit. And with all this weight, there is still a sense of proportion, the rich berry fruits, smokiness and light spice beautifully integrated.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WETerrific texture, weight and heft on both the nose and the attack. A flush of powerful tannic grip is balanced by stunning acidity and bright silken fruit. Overall the structure is compellingly insistent, still dancing around the palate, a flourishing, featherweight beauty that demands your attention. Magisterially good. Drinking Window 2016 - 2035Decanter | 96 DEC This displays green coffee bean and raspberry aromas, with a leafy undertone. Full-bodied, with refined tannins and a pretty finish. Very silky and classy. Lasts a long time on the finish. Best after 2014. 2,800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSCurrently closed and backward, this wine seems to share a more similar character to Trotanoy than in any recent vintages I recall. Powerful, structured, masculine, but a long-term proposition, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine displays notes of caramelized, sweet black cherries and wild berry fruit with plenty of spice, earth, and a hint of herbaceousness. The wine has very high tannins, impressive concentration, but that mouth-searing level of tannin. This is one Petrus that should probably be forgotten for at least 8-10 years and drunk over the following two to three decades. I always find it ironic that Petrus, which is virtually 100% Merlot, is more backward than the first growths of Medoc, which are Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated.Robert Parker | 93+ RPBright medium ruby. Reticent but complex nose opened with air to display an almost roasted ripeness to the aromas of dark berries and licorice. Sweet, deep and lush, showing brooding dark berry and black cherry fruit sexed up by an exotic chocolate liqueur quality. A hugely rich but rather inscrutable wine. This was much deeper in pitch than the Trotanoy I tasted next to it, and missing that wine’s ineffable mineral high notes, inner-mouth perfume and impression of harmoniousness. Is this simply too young to assess today? Time will tell.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

A wine that succeeds in combining great depth of flavor and structure with an impressive array of flavors. On top of the tannins is juicy black fruit, cocoa, a welter of spice and ripeness. The acidity and new wood put the wine into a more modern style. Wait for at least 5–7 years.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEIt could be easy, after tasting the monumental 2005, to dismiss the 2006 Troplong Mondot, but don’t be so foolish. Proprietress Christine Valette has turned out another exceptional performance. Of course, this is not the 2005- a singular vintage that will be difficult to duplicate in a 20-30 year span, but the 2006 Troplong Mondot is an impressive, powerful, broad, surprisingly masculine and deep effort. Its inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by an exceptional bouquet of powdered rock, blackberries, blueberries, spring flowers, and hints of camphor as well as espresso roast. The wine is full-bodied with a layered, multidimensional texture, sensational purity and structure, and elevated levels of tannin, concentration, and richness. Forget it for 7-8 years, and drink it over the following 20-25 years.Robert Parker | 93 RPBright, deep ruby-red. Brooding aromas of crushed blueberry, bitter chocolate and roast coffee. Rich, broad and sweet, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness of dark berries leavened by brisk acidity and firm minerality. Lots of lift and life here for such a lush, creamy wine. Finishes with big, sweet, building tannins and terrific palate-staining length. This should enjoy a long evolution in bottle.Vinous Media | 93 VMA number of 2006 Bordeaux are showing well today, and that is certainly the case with the 2006 Troplong Mondot. Taking about an hour of air to show at its best, its ruby/plum hue gives way to a classic Saint-Emilion offering ample red and black currant fruits, tobacco leaf, bouquet garni, chocolate, and loads of chalky minerality. Rich, full-bodied, and beautifully textured, this powerful 2006 has surprising structure yet more than enough fruit. Mature, but certainly on the early slopes of its drinking plateau, it’s going to evolve gracefully for another two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDCoffee, cedar, blackberry and tobacco aromas follow through to a tight, powerful palate. This is full yet very reserved, with silky, polished tannins. Best after 2014. 5,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Very pretty density and dark-berry, bitter-chocolate and smoked-oak character. Some coffee, too. Full-bodied, firm and racy. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSAlong with Lafite Rothschild, Ausone, and l’Eglise Clinet, Pavie is one of the wines of the vintage. An inky/purple color is accompanied by notes of creme de cassis, kirsch, graphite, and toast. A massive wine for the vintage, the 2007 Pavie is very full-bodied with extraordinary intensity, power, and richness. Its structure and tannin suggest 2-4 years of cellaring is required, and it should evolve for 25 years thereafter ,an unusually long aging curve for most 2007s. Yields were 25 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a classic blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The natural alcohol level came in at 14%.Robert Parker | 94 RPSupple and inviting, with a caressing edge to the red currant and blackberry confiture notes. Warm tobacco, cocoa and apple wood accents fill in throughout. This has melded nicely and shows a smoldering hint through the finish. Approachable now, but there’s no rush.--Non-blind Pavie vertical (March 2017). Drink now through 2030. 7,335 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA solidly structured wine, filled with fig, bitter coffee, spice and wood over a firm structure of tannins. The freshness is quite intense, but the ripe fruit is vivid with layered acidity and new wood. This is a serious wine, for aging.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

This reference point estate has turned out a classic, incredibly impressive Pomerol, and they compared their 2008 La Conseillante to their 1988. It has a complex, mature bouquet of sweet red and black currants, white truffles, incense, and spice. This carries to a medium to full-bodied Pomerol that has a great, mineral-laced finish that makes you salivate. This elegant yet showy effort is drinking fabulous well today yet will have no issues keeping for another 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe beautiful 2008 exhibits a dark plum/ruby/purple color as well as jammy red and black fruit, crushed rock and floral notes. If this were a Burgundy, one might think of it as a grand cru Musigny. With excellent texture, medium to full body and stunning purity as well as nobility, this fascinating Pomerol should drink well for 15-20 years.Robert Parker | 95 RPThe 2008 La Conseillante has an attractive bouquet at ten years of age, unfolding discretely in the glass with engaging scents of Morello cherry, blackcurrant, orange pith, cedar and a touch of mint. The delineation here is very impressive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin and a keen thread of acidity. It conveys energy and vivacity and then develops a quite irony note towards the second half with traces of white pepper and bay leaf infusing the red and black fruit. What I appreciate here is its focus and drive, a Pomerol intent on longevity. It is drinking perfectly well now, but it will have more to give. (Tasted at the château and at BI Wine & Spirit’s annual vertical tasting.)Vinous Media | 94 VM(Château La Conseillante) The soon to be released 2008 La Conseillante is an absolute classic in the making. This will not be a blockbuster vintage of this fine wine, but rather a complex, suave and intensely flavored middleweight of impeccable poise and balance. The wine was raised in eighty percent new wood this year- a tad generous perhaps in a vintage such as ‘08- but has no trouble carrying its oak and is a really lovely example of this classic vintage. The nose offers up a complex mélange of red and black raspberries, fresh herb tones, coffee bean, dark chocolate, tobacco smoke and a base of spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and very refined on the attack, with a good core of fruit, lovely purity and nascent complexity and a long, ripely tannic and perfectly focused finish. A lovely vintage for La Conseillante. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe sweetness of fruit and balance to this wine is really impressive. Medium to full body, fine tannins and a light milk chocolate, blueberry and spice character. Bright acidity gives it verve. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA difficult spring with disease pressure meant an uneven flowering, but the rest of the year saw pretty good weather conditions. This is a very lovely wine, showing some freshly cut mint on the attack followed by white pepper notes alongside soft blackberries. It has lots of presence and grip on the still-youthful palate, with the dancing precision of La Conseillante. Underrated perhaps. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 93 DECRacy and focused, with a mouthwatering edge to the raspberry ganache, graphite and floral notes, all stretched out by fine minerality on the persistent finish. Very solid. Cellaring should add a touch more. Drink now through 2016. 3,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Possibly the wine of the vintage, the 2008 Pavie has the elegance of the Pavie Decesse and the power of the Mondotte. It’s a brilliant, sexy beauty loaded with notions of crème de cassis, blackberries, spice box, and licorice, with a classic Saint-Emilion-like liquid rock minerality. This all carries to a full-bodied Saint-Emilion that offers loads of fruit and texture, yet remains fabulous polished, elegant, and balanced. It’s a wine that builds incrementally on the palate, with beautiful depth of fruit and ripe tannins. Bravo to Gerard Perse for another tour de force in Bordeaux! Drink it any time over the coming 30 years or more. The blend of the 2008 is 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis is starting to be perfect to drink now with chocolate, grilled-meat, plum and wet-earth character. Full-bodied, tight and focused. The acidity has diminished and this shows balance. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSA slightly more compact style of Pavie in this vintage, but still full-bodied, the 2008 has a youthful, dense purple color and is seriously endowed with concentrated, rich fruit, licorice, graphite, forest floor, and loads of dark plum and black and red currant fruit. This wine still has some tannins to resolve, and should be cellared for another 4-5 years. Drink over the following two decades.Robert Parker | 94+ RPDry tannins dominate this wine. Pavie’s style has become less exuberant, more restrained, which allows the terroir to show through in its tannins and concentration. This is for long-term aging.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEPavie is all about digging in for the long haul, and at 10 years old it starts to make sense. Those tannins are still chewy but not ferocious, the fruit savoury and concentrated. It has far more power than a typical limestone St-Émilion for at least four of its five beats, until that salted almond taste kicks in on the finish and the slate wall appears before you and you start to ascend, and then you think, hang on, in another 10 years this might just be reaching its peak! (NB: Pavie was upgraded to ’1er Grand Cru Classé A’ status in 2012). Drinking Window 2022 - 2038Decanter | 93 DECA very solid effort in a difficult year, showing light bay and tobacco notes out front, quickly followed by a mix of raspberry and red and black currant fruit. Shows a lightly chewy edge, along with more tobacco and bittersweet cocoa elements, on the finish. This pulls about all it can out of a wet and cool year.--Non-blind Pavie vertical (March 2017). Best from 2018 through 2025. 6,665 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2008 Cheval Blanc has a very precise, mineral-driven bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, energetic and incredibly focused, perhaps even more so than Ausone? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin though I discerned a patina of oak dragging its heels, waiting to be subsumed. There is great concentration and yet conversely it feels bright and fresh; with aeration evermore nimble and sprightly. Towards the finish there are subtle hints of bay leaf and cedar, the Cabernet Franc taking over the steering wheel from the Merlot. There is a lot going on in this outstanding Cheval Blanc that does not deserve to be in the shadow of the feted 2009 or 2010. (Tasted at BI Wine & Spirit’s annual 10-Year On tasting).Vinous Media | 95 VMCheval Blanc gives a different expression of Cabernet Franc to Ausone, in terms of its kick and structure. The tannins feel enveloping, going deep rather than high, full of complex layers of tight black fruits, succulent brambly fruits and liquorice root. Drinking Window 2020 - 2030Decanter | 95 DECI am really impressed with this. It is powerful and rich with so much blueberry, vanilla and spice on the nose and palate. It’s full and very spicy, and fruit on the palate, but remains refined and subtle. Rich and polished tannins. This needs at least five years of bottle age to come around.James Suckling | 95 JSA great success, showing impressive concentration. It is almost severe to begin with, then sweet tannins sweep in. The higher than usual proportion of Merlot gives a wine that combines plumpness with black plums, figs and acidity. Obviously for aging.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2008 Cheval Blanc (55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc) is a winner from this underrated, classic vintage. Notes of forest floor, Asian plum sauce, black currants, sweet cherries and spice are followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with deep fruit, admirable purity, and a long, textured finish. There is not a hard edge to this wine, and in all likelihood, it can be drunk now or cellared for two decades.Robert Parker | 93 RPThis isn’t shy about letting a tobacco leaf note weave in and out, while the core of red currant, damson plum and bitter cherry grows and fleshes out as this airs. The long finish lets mineral, red licorice and mesquite check in as well. Shows impressive range, with some youthful grip still to be shed. Best from 2013 through 2020. 4,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

One of the superstars of the vintage, the 2008 Trotanoy is a wine that transcends the vintage. Typically, this is not one of the more lush, sexy wines of Pomerol, but rather a muscular, masculine effort, and that’s the case in 2008. A deep purple color is followed by copious amounts of red and black fruit, earth, cedar and forest floor notes. The wine reveals a full-bodied texture, phenomenal concentration for a 2008, plenty of sweet tannin and a terrific finish. While it was surprisingly approachable, it will benefit from several years of cellaring and last 20-25 years. Bravo!Robert Parker | 96 RP(Château Trotanoy) The 2008 Trotanoy is certainly one of the riper examples of the vintage that I have come across, as it reached a full fourteen percent in alcohol in this year, but the long, slow growing season has allowed the sugars to mount slowly and the precision of the terroir in this wine has remained truly remarkable. In several respects, I prefer the cooler and refined profile of the 2008 Trotanoy to the bigger and more powerful iterations of this great estate in 2009 and 2010. The bouquet on the wine is deep, very pure and impressively discreet, as it offers up scents of red plums, black cherries, Cuban cigars, coffee, beautiful minerality, herb tones and a fine base of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full, pure and chiseled, with a fine core, superb focus, ripe, moderate tannins, good acids and outstanding length and grip on the nascently complex and very intensely flavored finish. A beautiful and utterly classic vintage of Trotanoy that reminds me a bit of the 1975 in terms of precision and purity. It will be very interesting to see how this ranks in comparison to the more powerful wines of 2009 and 2010 at this estate when time has had its say, thirty or forty years down the road. (Drink between 2020-2075).John Gilman | 95+ JGThis is very muscular for the vintage, with blueberries, minerals, flowers and stones. Full bodied and powerful with beautiful rich tannins and a long, long finish. So much going on. Let it go for five or six years.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2008 Trotanoy is a ferociously backward Pomerol that did not engage at Farr’s horizontal. Another bottle served over lunch that had undergone a long decanting was far more representative. It has a gorgeous bouquet with raspberry and menthol, a little dark chocolate and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with ample freshness and vigor although it clearly demands a long aeration to really click into fifth gear. This is a multi-dimensional Trotanoy that probably needs another couple of years in bottle. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 10-Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 94+ VMAn impressive wine, showing its power and concentration in a structure integrated with chocolate, bitter coffee and spice. Black plum notes add a juicy character to this powerful wine.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis is a more powerful expression of Pomerol, with black tea and tar notes framing the core of blackberry and plum fruit. Loam, roasted tobacco leaf and braised cèpe notes fill in on the finish. This should be fun to age. Best from 2013 through 2020. 1,875 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2008 Le Gay is a beauty. Still lively colored, with a complex bouquet of blackcurrants, savory cherries, earth, and dried herbs, this beauty hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, fine, elegant tannin, and a silky, layered, seamless texture. It has a beautiful finish and is an incredibly classy, elegant wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDOne of the top successes of the vintage, the 2008 Le Gay, a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc (13.5% alcohol) was produced from tiny yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it exhibits a dense purple color as well as a sweet nose of spring flowers intermixed with blueberries, blackberries, dark raspberries, crushed rocks and white chocolate. Full-bodied, super intense and extremely promising (although it is unusually backward for a 2008), it will benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring and may merit an even higher score in a decade or so. It should last for 30+ years, making it one of the longest-lived wines of the vintage.Robert Parker | 94+ RPRacy blackberry and graphite notes are framed by light toast and mineral in this vibrant, expressive red. The ripe tannins are well-integrated and give backbone to the plush texture. There’s beautiful balance, with depth and drive. Drink now through 2020. 1,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2008 Le Gay has an intense Merlot-driven bouquet that soars from the glass: kirsch, orange zest, rose petal and touches of truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, nicely structured with a structured, saline finish that just lacks the aftertaste that would have clinched the deal. Not bad, though I suspect that decanting, always necessary for this Pomerol cru, would have resulted in a higher score. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 10-Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 91+ VMFirm blackberry and bilberry fruits are accompanied by smooth tannins in this lovely wine full of Pomerol typicity. No need to wait any longer to start enjoying this - those luscious cappuccino notes allow for an easy entry into the rich fruit and tannic backbone. Drinking Window 2018 - 2036.Decanter | 90 DEC

Similar in style to the blockbuster 2005, the 2009 Pavie is another magical, legendary wine from the Perse family that tops out on my scale. Made from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon brought up in 80% new French oak, its saturated purple color is followed by a massive bouquet of blackcurrants, scorched earth, chocolate, graphite, and lead pencil, with an incredible sense of minerality. Deep, full-bodied, and remarkably concentrated and intense, it still stays perfectly balanced and weightless, with building yet sweet tannins. It’s still a baby yet is a magical drink today given its opulence, purity and balance. Drink this magical wine any time over the coming 50-60 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDDeep garnet in color, the 2009 Pavie drifts effortlessly and profoundly from the glass with baked plums, spice cake, sandalwood, Black Forest cake and blueberry pie scents followed up with a fragrant undercurrent of potpourri, unsmoked cigars and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, rich and plush, this is pure seduction in the mouth, offering a taut yet velvety texture and oodles of freshness to frame the opulent fruit, finishing very long and mineral laced.Robert Parker | 100 RPRich purple in colour, you really get the ink, liquorice and bitter dark chocolate notes here, all taken up a level and extremely well handled, with a super-attractive savoury lick that comes from the limestone soils. Pavie needs 10 years at an absolute minimum (except in 2003) to begin its conversation, and here we are starting to see what it can do. It’s a very good wine that’s powerful, concentrated, intense and ripe, but it has restraint and lift on the finish. It’s not over-reaching, but rather very clearly marking its territory. It still needs longer to get there, but it’s hard to argue with the construction of this wine, and to be totally honest I’m more impressed than I expected. Drinking Window 2021 - 2044Decanter | 98 DECThis is so structured and powerful with amazing depth of fruit and tannins. Blueberry and cherry aromas come through clear. The palate is full and powerful with chewy yet polished tannins and a long, long finish. Really impressive. Needs decanting, if you want to drink it now. One for the cellar.James Suckling | 98 JSVery showy, with loads of warm fig, boysenberry and raspberry confiture flavors coming in waves, showing maybe a hint of torrefaction along with melted licorice, warm ganache and fruitcake notes. There’s a loamy hint through the finish, and a touch of graphite helps give this the spine it needs. Hard to deny the fruit here, though I lean toward the ’10 for its cut and drive.--Non-blind Pavie vertical (March 2017). Best from 2020 through 2045. 7,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2009 Pavie has a gorgeous bouquet, very pure and refined with seamlessly integrated oak and wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, perfectly judged acidity. Fine grip with compelling tension on the finish. This shimmers with energy. Easily, this is the best bottle that I have encountered over the years. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMWith its superripe, jammy fruit, this is lush and opulent. It does have a fine structure as well as bitter chocolate and dark tannins. A hugely powerful wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE

At once deep and rich, yet cool and delicate with a minty freshness, this is a really concentrated and super-elegant Pomerol that’s now very seductive, but has the structure and vitality to live for a long time. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2009 La Conseillante has a very classy and sophisticated bouquet with beautifully defined black and red fruit mixed with black truffle and pressed rose petals. The oak is just completely subsumed here. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe and saturated tannin, a fine line of acidity, fresh and tensile with a sense of mineralité on the finish. This bottle shows even better than the one poured at the property 12 months earlier. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis tasted brilliant in London a few weeks ago at the Bordeaux 10 Years On tasting, but even better in New York. There’s so much complexity on offer - the natural elegance pumped up with dark chocolate, graphite and liquorice layering up through the damson and blackberry fruits. A gorgeous, delicious wine with a blast of freshly crushed mint leaf on the finish. This was the third vintage since a second wine was launched in 2007, helping the winemaking team to concentrate and refine this main bottling. Jean-Michel Laporte was director at the time, with Gilles Paquet as consultant. Drinking Window 2020 - 2032Decanter | 97 DECSimilar in style to the 2015, the 2009 La Conseillante is another sexy, seductive, opulent even, Pomerol that offers a huge array of spiced dark fruits, cured meats, crushed flowers, and truffle. Deep, full-bodied, layered and beautifully pure, with an extroverted personality that just begs to be drunk, it will keep for another three decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe medium to deep garnet colored 2009 La Conseillante strides confidently out of the glass with very classy Black Forest cake, blueberry compote and kirsch scents plus suggestions of violets, liquid licorice, cardamom and bay leaves with a touch of eucalyptus. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is elegantly fruited with a firm, grainy frame and oodles of freshness, finishing long and minerally.Robert Parker | 96 RPThis delivers stunning toasted spice, mocha and black tea aromas, while the core of plum, blackberry and fig flavors is still rather reticent. The long finish is liberally laced with a racy graphite note, while the perfumy accent pervades. This will be a suave head-turner when it rounds into form. Best from 2018 through 2030. 4,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS(Château La Conseillante) The 2009 La Conseillante is evolving nicely and shows every likelihood of delivering on all the early promise it showed out of barrel during the En Primeur week of 2010. A year on, the wine offers up a ripe and classy nose of red and black raspberries, chocolate, fine, gravelly soil tones, tobacco smoke and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely tannic, with a fine core of fruit, good focus and balance and very good length and grip on the youthful finish. The 2009 vintage has still produced a La Conseillante that is a bit broad-shouldered by the elegant standards of this estate, but this is a very good example of the vintage that should age gracefully. (Drink between 2022-2060)John Gilman | 93 JGDensely rich, very sweet wine. It has some smoky tannins that give structure, along with a dark core of dry raisin and wood flavors. It has concentration and an opaque texture.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

After tasting it three times from bottle, I am convinced this prodigious wine is one of the greatest young Bordeaux I have ever tasted. Inky blue/purple with notes of camphor, forest floor, blackberry, cassis, sweet cherries, licorice, the wine has stunning aromatics, unctuous texture and an almost inky concentration, but without any hard edges. With considerable tannin and just enough acidity to provide definition, this wine transcends even its premier grand cru classe terroir. It is certainly the finest Clos Fourtet ever produced. Give it 5-7 years of cellaring to allow some of its baby fat to fall away. There is certainly enough structure underneath to keep for 30-50 years. Bravo!From my barrel score of 95-98, I suppose I should have seen this perfect score coming, particularly considering what proprietor Philippe Cuvelier and estate manager Tony Ballu have accomplished over the last decade. This is one of the great terroirs of St.-Emilion, nearly 50 acres high on the clay beds and deep limestone plateau of the region, just a stone’s throw from the luxury hotel and restaurant Hostellerie de Plaisance. Yields were moderate at 34 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend is 88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual) and the rest Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 80% new oak.Robert Parker | 100 RPThe greatest Clos Fourtet I’ve ever tasted, eclipsing the heavenly 2005 and 2015, the 2009 Château Clos Fourtet offers an insane bouquet of black cherry and black currant fruits as well as a loads of smoked tobacco, chocolate, licorice, and toasted spices. It shows a touch of classic limestone-influenced white truffle with time in the glass and is as majestic as they come on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a seamless texture, beautiful tannins, and a monster of a finish. A blend of 88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Cabernet Franc brought up in 80% new French oak, this magical Saint-Emilion can be enjoyed any time over the coming 30-40 years. Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDStrikingly different in construction from the Pomerol that it was paired with in the blind tasting, this is rich and hedonistic both on the nose and the attack, with a punch of ripe raspberry, blueberry fruits and clear oak finessing. Give it a minute in the glass, and the definition and precision pulls everything into an orderly line, with lift, spiced clove and salinity on the finish that stretches out in your mouth, giving a reflection of the Asteries limestone terroir that is covered with just 40cm of topsoil in much of the vineyard (up to 1m in other sections). Tasting more in line with its En Primer promise than when I had this wine two years ago, a brilliant St Emilion and a classic of its type. Drinking Window 2020 - 2045.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2009 Clos Fourtet has a generous and opulent bouquet with red cherries, kirsch, fig and light mocha aromas that gently unfold, retaining admirable definition and poise. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, good structure. A more masculine, serious finish exerts impressive control. This is a classy Saint-Émilion with plenty of ageing potential. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMElegant as well as rich, this is a beautiful wine. It has great depth of flavor, the sweetest fruit, deliciously ripe. At the same time, the tannins are an underlying sustenance to the impressive ageworthiness.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WETons of black fruit, plenty of smoke and some balsamic character make a dramatic statement on the nose. On the palate there’s rather sweet fruit at the front, then major tannins come through at the finish that still need time to fully resolve. Better after 2022. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 94 JSRather ripe, but nicely framed by singed apple wood, which keeps the core of damson plum, black currant and black cherry flavors at bay for now. Licorice root and black tea notes undercut the finish, which is on the grippy side. This opens steadily in the glass, too. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2014 through 2027. 3,750 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Clinet has been on a hot streak lately and the 2009 appears to be the greatest wine ever made at the estate, surpassing even the late Jean-Michel Arcaute’s monumental 1989. A blend of 85% Merlot and tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc (12%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%), this big Pomerol boasts an opaque, moonless night inky/blue/purple color in addition to a gorgeous perfume of blueberry pie, incense, truffles, black raspberries, licorice and wood smoke. Viscous and multi-dimensional with silky, sweet tannin, massive fruit concentration and full-bodied power, there are nearly 4,000 cases of this thick, juicy, perfect Clinet. It should drink well in 3-5 years and keep for 25-30.Robert Parker | 100 RPA big-shouldered, powerful and classic Pomerol. Inky black in colour even at 11 years old, this is concentrated yet juicy and built for pleasure, filled with dense black cherries, fleshy raspberries, liquorice and shaved chocolate. On soils that are largely clay and gravel, with sandier sections, making it an excellent reflection of the appellation, and more than showcasing its ability to deliver superbly brushed tannins that gently pillow the Merlot-dominant fruit. Drinking Window 2020 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DECAromas of dark fruits, hazelnut and dark chocolate, follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins that are polished and refined. Beautiful depth of fruit to this. Best in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2009 Clinet has an impressive and complex bouquet with liquorice and truffle infused black fruit, hints of desiccated orange peel and even a dab of honey. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, succulent, and fine tannins (although not as fine as the 2009 La Conseillante) with a dense, precocious and heady finish. There is hedonism here, but it is on a tight leash. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMVery lush and exotic, boasting plum sauce, crushed fig, warm raspberry confiture and steeped black currant fruit all dripping over a racy but buried graphite spine. The long, dark finish has plenty of stuffing for the long haul. Really beautifully rendered. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2015 through 2034. 3,750 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA smooth, superripe wine, full of the sweetest fruit, big and rich. It is opulent, a powerhouse of dense Merlot fruits, rounded out with soft tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The inky/blue/purple-colored 2009 Bellevue Mondotte offers aromas of creme de cassis, mulberries, licorice, white flowers, forest floor and candied cherries. Extremely thick, rich and full-bodied, it is nearly overwhelming in its textural richness, colossal concentration and mind-blowing finish that lasts nearly a minute. Undeniably massive and over-sized, but perfectly balanced, it is made for those looking for something to put away for 30-50+ years. One has to admire a proprietor who is making a wine for the history books, not for near-term gratification.This is a tiny jewel in the empire of entrepreneur and quality conscious Bordeaux visionary, Gerard Perse. It is a 5-acre parcel of nearly 50-year old vines planted on pure limestone at an elevation above that of his neighboring property, Pavie-Decesse, not far from Pavie-Macquin. Bellevue Mondotte is generally a blend of approximately 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Since Perse got control of this estate and renovated the cellars, he has been draconian in reducing yields, which were a mere 22 hectoliters per hectare in 2009. The fruit was picked very ripe and the wine was fermented in oak tanks with malolactic in barrel, aged on its lees (a la Burgundy), and bottled unfined and unfiltered. At all the Perse properties the wine stays in oak about six months longer than at other Bordeaux estates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPLoads of fruit with blueberries and blackberries. Cassis. Full and juicy with super fine tannins. Very flamboyant. Powerful structure. Goes on for minutes. 90% Merlot with 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 97 JS(90% merlot with 5% each cabernet franc and sauvignon): Deep ruby. Superripe, slightly inky aromas of blueberry liqueur and violet. Like liquid silk in the mouth, but with surprisingly firm acidity leavening the wine’s sweetness and giving shape to its blue and black fruit flavors. A compellingly rich, thick wine with palate-staining length and the tannic clout to support at least a couple decades of positive evolution in bottle.Vinous Media | 95+ VMA very dark, almost brooding style, with loads of ganache, espresso and roasted fig aromas and flavors, backed by extra notes of black forest cake, warm currant preserves and melted black licorice. There’s a gorgeous polished feel despite its heft, with a purity buried deep on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 415 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

A blend of 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2009 Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) is utter perfection, and man, what a wine. Deep, inky, incredibly concentrated, yet also silky and weightless, it delivers that rare mix of intensity and weightlessness on the palate. Offering layers of blackcurrants, crushed flowers, lead pencil, incense and loads of spice-box, it shows the intensity and rich of the 2009 vintage yet is perfectly balanced, has building tannins, and a huge finish. It’s as good as it gets. Give bottles another 4-5 years and enjoy over the following 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis big wine (nearly 15% natural alcohol) is a blend of 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. It boasts an opaque blue/purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of charcoal, incense, truffles, blackberry jam, black currants, raspberries and flowers. While enormous in the mouth, the limestone soils in which the grapes are grown give the wine good freshness as well as laser-like clarity and precision. Amazing to taste, this massive, super-concentrated powerhouse comes across as ethereal and almost feminine despite its extravagant fruit, density and richness. It is a modern day legend for sure! Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050+As I wrote after I tasted this cuvee from barrel, it is clearly the greatest Beausejour-Duffau since the immortal 1990. Under new management, the brilliant duo of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt is in the process of developing what is one of the great hillside terroirs of Bordeaux and St.-Emilion.Robert Parker | 100 RPFocused power. This muscular red shows drive, yet remains graceful, with fresh plum and currant flavors, backed by mineral, tar and floral notes. The dense texture stays fresh through the sweet, spicy finish. Best from 2014 through 2030. 1,540 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSAromas of sliced fresh mushrooms, with dark berries and hints of lemons. Full-bodied, with tight and chewy tannins that are very polished and rich. A finish of dark berries and polished tannins. Serious austerity to this. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 94 JSFresh blackberry fruits give a smooth wine, rich and with an immediately attractive fresh acidity. It does have the density of fruit along with relatively soft tannins. At the back there is a more chocolate character.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2009 Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse has a very composed and focused bouquet with brambly red fruit, mulberry, loam and cedar aromas, maybe just a little new oak still waiting to be fully subsumed after 10 years. The palate is well balanced with a medicinal, honey textured opening, plenty of cough candy infusing the red fruit, good depth but just missing some grip and density on the rather one-dimensional finish. This has not aged as well as some of the others from Nicolas Thienpont’s stable, such as Larcis Ducasse and this is one example where I prefer the preceding vintage. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 91 VM

This is a wine that had extreme intensity of electrifying tannins and acidity, with supercharged fruit. Full-bodied, yet agile and lively. It touches every taste bud on your palate. Chocolate mousse and fruit. I am lost for words. Legendary 1950 all over again. Try it in 2020.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2009’s nearly 14% natural alcohol, exquisite ripeness, and incredible complex bouquet of Asian spices, fruitcake, licorice, smoke, blackberries and black currants are to die for. A blend of 84% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a viscous texture as well as a freshness and vibrancy that are remarkable given the wine’s weight, richness and potential massiveness. This extraordinary effort is one of the finest Vieux Chateau Certans made over the last sixty years. It will undoubtedly shut down in bottle, requiring a decade or more of cellaring. It should keep for 50 years thereafter. Proprietor Thienpont thinks it is a modern day version of the 1948.As I wrote in my barrel tasting notes, the 2009 ranks alongside four of the legendary vintages of Vieux Chateau Certan’s ancient past, 1945, 1947, 1948 and 1950. It is undoubtedly a cleaner wine than those older vintages, and the selection process under proprietor Alexandre Thienpont was far more severe in 2009 than it would have been sixty years ago.Robert Parker | 99 RPThis shows gorgeous silk and polish, brimming with beguiling plum, cherry eau de vie and red currant fruit flavors laced with supple toasty vanilla and cedar hints. But in the background brews a darker side, with loam, maduro tobacco and iron notes, which take over on the finish authoritatively. This feels like it will get a lot bigger before it fully melds--and that will be a while. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2035. 4,300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Vieux Château Certan) The 2009 Vieux Château Certan is a great wine in the making, but it will be a rather atypical vintage for this great estate, as the rains of the 19th and 20th of September played havoc a bit with the cabernet franc vineyards here, and a much larger percentage of merlot ended up being used for the grand vin in this vintage. Consequently the ’09 VCC is comprised of eighty-four percent merlot this year, with the balance made up of equal pars of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. But despite the atypical blend, the wine is stunning, as it offers up a beautiful nose of black cherries, blood orange, tobacco leaf, really lovely minerality, espresso and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure, with plenty of power, a rock solid core of fruit, tangy acids, fine-grained tannins and great length and purity on the complex and beautifully poised finish. A great wine. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 93-94+ JGThe 2009 Vieux-Château-Certan has a gorgeous bouquet with red fruit, warm bricks, just a hint of sloes and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry red fruit, firm tannin and well judged acidity. It tapers in slightly towards the finish where I would like a little more roundness but there is persistence here. Readers know I am huge fan of Alexandre Thienpont and this property, but I aver that this growing season never suited them. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The freshness on the nose is striking and you could easily mistake this for a 4-5 year old wine. Ripe elderberry and wild blackberry notes are married to elegant tannins and a lively acidity, making this leap and bound across the palate. Long mineral finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 96 JSThis is well-cloaked for now in roasted vanilla and espresso notes, but there’s ample, fleshy fig sauce and mulled blackberry fruit in reserve. The long finish sports a melted licorice snap feel. Dense, but beautifully polished and pure. For the cellar. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2015 through 2030. 5,140 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSAn intriguing blend of nearly 50% Merlot, a whopping 35% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (a somewhat unusual combination for this region), the 2009 reminds me of the 1990. A big, inky/purple-tinged wine with just over 14% natural alcohol, it exhibits exotic, flamboyant aromas of espresso roast, incense, sweet black cherries, black currants, licorice, asphalt, barbecue smoke, Christmas fruitcake and herbs. Full-bodied with silky tannins, luscious fruit, a hedonistic yet complex personality, low acidity, noticeable tannin and enviable purity, this head-turning beauty can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years.Robert Parker | 95 RPOne of the peculiarities of St.-Émilion’s classification is that Canon la Gaffelière is not classed in the top rung. Because, as this wine shows, it produces superb wines. This is ripe while so elegant, with great intensity and sweet perfumes.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2009 Canon-la-Gaffelière has a very attractive bouquet with truffle and smoke infused black fruit, hints of roasted chestnut, secondary aromas beginning to come through nicely. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, very well balanced with hints of black toast and white pepper filtering through. This is well defined and more persistent than some of its peers, likewise it has become more classic in style in recent years. Superb. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ annual Ten Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 93 VMCanon-la-Gaffelière has clay-limestone and sandy-clay soils that are well drained and early-ripening, and in a generous year like 2009 they provide a clear route to the kind of fleshy ripe fruits on display here. This has nicely handled damson and blackberry jam notes with gourmet patisserie cream and baking chocolate touches, but it shows welcome restraint on the long finish. The quick tannic build up through the palate makes an impression, but they have a lovely soft quality that make them extremely pleasurable. Lots to enjoy. Drinking Window 2019 - 2038Decanter | 92 DEC

A big, powerful, masculine Pomerol with a style not dissimilar from Le Gay, the dense purple-colored 2009 Gazin exhibits black currant, black cherry liqueur, coffee, roasted herb, an exotic Asian spice component, vanillin, creme caramel and toasty oak in its aromatics and flavors. From a vineyard near Petrus, Le Gay and La Fleur Petrus, it is full-bodied with licorice, earth, truffle and creme de cassis in the mouth. Give this powerful, backward 2009 an additional 6-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following three decades.Robert Parker | 96 RPVery dark, spicy and mysterious, this is a concentrated and graceful Pomerol that shows what was possible in this vintage if everything was done right. The stunningly fine tannins drive the very long subtle finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2009 Gazin has a very concentrated, high-toned bouquet with Merlot firmly in the driving seat, a mixture of black and blue fruit. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin, succulent and glossy in style with macerated black cherries and salted liquorice towards the finish. This needs another year or two in the glass. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMGazin has vines at the highest point in Pomerol, at just over 40m, right next to Petrus. This is a powerful, upright wine that’s just getting going at 10 years old. It was double-decanted for two hours before the tasting, which helped enormously compared to when I tasted it a few weeks ago. You can feel the tannins holding everything in place buy the quality and intensity of the fruit is unmissable. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040Decanter | 93 DECThis has it all in place—dark, smoldering tobacco and cocoa notes, rich plum sauce, braised fig and steeped black currant fruit, joined by lengthy, mouthcoating, tar-tinged grip. Still youthfully raw, though, so cellar for maximum effect. Best from 2014 through 2028. 5,541 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA smoky wine, its fruit submerged in the wood character. It does have weight, along with powerful, tight tannins. It’s a wine that will need many years.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

This wine has closed down somewhat since I had it from barrel and exhibits a firm, earthy, mineral-laced style. Made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the ripe black raspberry and blueberry fruit are present, along with some sandy, loamy soil notes. The tannins are sweet, but very elevated, and the wine rich and long but currently somewhat austere and needing bottle age. Give it 2 or 3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 15+ years.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

Deep purple-ruby. Knockout nose of black cherry, minerals, coffee liqueur and violet offers uncommon depth and complexity. The flavors of blackberry, black plum and minerals are complicated by a note of iron and given wonderful clarity and cut by harmonious, vibrant acidity. Finishes very long and pure, with distinctive balsamic nuances. There’s lots of sweet fleshy fruit here but the wine comes across as amazingly refined and graceful thanks to its vibrant acidity, which really extends the flavors at the back. The best young Certan of the last 12 or 15 years.Vinous Media | 95 VMWonderful concentration here, the wine has the most powerful wood spice, ripe and mineral tannins. It is impressive in every way, showing the total richness of the vintage.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEA bruising, black/purple-hued, full-bodied wine, the 2009 Certan de May displays notes of charcuterie, smoked game, herbs, black truffles, roasted meats, cassis and black cherries. This backward, robustly-styled Pomerol is loaded with tannin as well as extract. Give this full, powerful 2009 a decade of cellaring and drink it over the following 30+ years. I’m sure it is not better than the immortal 1982 Certan de May.Robert Parker | 93+ RP(Château Certan de May) In recent vintages Certan de May has been a bit too new oaky for my own personal tastes, but underneath the veneer of spicy new wood has always been the same excellent wine. Happily, the 2009 seems quite a bit toned down on its percentage of new wood and the wine was singing during En Primeur week. The bouquet is deep and really outstanding, as it offers up a complex and vibrant mélange of black raspberries black cherries, chocolate, lovely minerality, woodsmoke and a discreet framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, ripe and fleshy, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm tannins and excellent length and grip on the pure and already quite complex finish. A very fine vintage for Certan de May- I only hope that the wine does not become more marked by its new oak as it continues its elevage in the cellars, as it would be a pity to lose any of its vibrancy and nascent complexity to more oak tones. (Drink between 2017-2050).John Gilman | 91-93+ JGBright and ripe, with mouthfilling linzer torte and blackberry preserves pushed by black tea and toasty spice. This has the racy grip of the vintage, which builds steadily through the finish. Turns darker and denser with air. Best from 2014 through 2028. 2,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Lots of blackberries, sweet tobacco and violets on the nose. Black tea. Full-bodied yet tight and very focused. Structured with very precise tannins. A beautiful and focused wine. Needs two or three more years of bottle age but gorgeous.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2009 Château La Dominique is a beauty, offering a ripe, plush, sexy, and full-bodied style that still has a terrific sense of purity and elegance. Notes of red and black currants, white truffle, lead pencil, and sous bois all emerge from this classic Saint-Emilion, which has ripe, sweet tannins, a great mid-palate, and the balance and class to continue evolving for another 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe third vintage produced by the new team that is trying to take this irregular estate adjacent to Cheval Blanc to new heights is the 2019 La Dominique. Offering up aromas of sweet berries, cherries, mocha and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, with juicy acids, supple tannins and an elegantly gourmand profile. This is a terrific effort that shows that this estate’s fine performance in vintages such as 1998, 1990 and 1989 is not a thing of the past.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA charmer of a wine, all fruit and sweet tannins. It is dense, the flavors going right down into the core of the wine and bringing back beautiful red perfumed fruits. La Dominique, next door to Cheval Blanc, is now performing well.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Pure perfection in a glass, the incredible 2009 Troplong Mondot offers off the chart notes of blackcurrants, licorice, truffles and saddle leather that just soar from the glass. This is a big, ripe, incredibly sexy wine that hits the palate with a huge texture, building, ripe tannin, no weight, and a finish that just won’t quit. Utterly brilliant stuff, it’s slightly more approachable than the 2005, but both of these vintages play in the same style. Drink bottles anytime over the coming two to three decades. Bravo!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDIt boasts an inky/purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of mocha, chocolate, blackberry and cassis fruit, an unctuous texture, a full-bodied, viscous mouthfeel and a skyscraper-like, multilayered finish. This spectacular wine is nearly overwhelming in its richness, thickness and intensity. Once all its baby fat falls away, the terroir characteristics and additional nuances will emerge. This blockbuster, fabulous Troplong Mondot will benefit from 10-15 years of cellaring and keep for three decades or more. It is not shy either, bouncing over the palate with 15.5% natural alcohol.The 2009 Troplong Mondot will provide plenty of competition for the 2010, 2005 and 2000. It comes closest in style to the prodigious 1990 that proprietress Christine Valette produced 22 years ago. A phenomenal effort, it unquestionably justifies its relatively new Premier Grand Cru St.-Emilion status. Readers should keep in mind that the 1990, which probably has lower acidity and not the level of concentration found in the 2009, is drinking incredibly well at age 22 and reveals no signs of falling apart.Robert Parker | 99 RPA very concentrated wine with such a stylish feel. It balances ripe berry fruits with chocolate and wood flavors in the richest, ripest combination. The wine has power, without losing its poised character. It’s ready for long aging.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAlthough this is very ripe and rich with a generous body and a slew of black fruit aromas it’s also elegant and poised. The bitter chocolate character is more restrained than in many modern-style Right Bank wines of this period and there’s a lovely balance of lively acidity with fine dry tannins at the complex finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 96 JSVery dark, with strong pastis-soaked blackberry and roasted plum notes leading the way, with layers of sweet spice, mocha and tobacco filling in on the finish. Rather lush and perhaps a touch too roasted in style for some folks, with enough just grip to keep it going. Best from 2013 through 2024. 6,288 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThese were the St-Emilion excess years and you see it here, with kirsch flamboyance on the nose from the off. You hover around before tasting, not quite sure of how close to get. There’s gloss to the palate, with high-toned silky fruits that are not balanced perfectly with the heat running through the palate. I remember this at En primeur, and it hasn’t calmed down enough over the last 10 years. It’s got all the stuffing to impress, but you need to be looking for a very specific style. Lovers of subtlety should look elsewhere. Drinking Window 2021 - 2046Decanter | 91 DECThe 2009 Troplong-Mondot has a completely over the top, gregarious and raisin-like bouquet that frankly comes as no surprise given the philosophy of the estate at this time. The palate is sweet on the entry with candied black cherries, cassis and cough candy, unlike Bordeaux in some ways with a rather cloying and alcoholic finish. Now it seems like an anachronism. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ Ten Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM