Wine Ratings

wines

Delightful and juicy red fruit with lots of floral notes of rose petals, citrus blossoms and a touch of crunchy white peach. Medium-bodied with succulent, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Finishes with an appetizing, zesty aftertaste. Beautifully harmonious. Drinkable now, but give it another three to five years to show its best.James Suckling | 95 JSBalsamic aromas of eucalyptus and camphor mingle with lavender, perfumed berry, cedar and forest floor on this fragrant Brunello. Full-bodied and delicious, the smooth palate offers juicy baked cherry pie, star anise, blood orange and graphite alongside velvety, close-grained tannins. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe La Fortuna 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows earthy spice, toasted cumin seed and a leafy quality with some bay leaf or dried tarragon. There is a spot of sweetness on the mid-palate, but the wine is fleshed out, with velvety tannins and an open-knit approach. There is a hint of perfumed rose or lavender essence as well. I like the complexity on offer here, and although the wine tends toward oak flavors, it does balance out. Some 26,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Annata is impossible to ignore. An array of rose petals and cloves gives way to cedar spice box and crushed blackberries. This is silky, verging on velvet, with cooling acidity and mineral tones that enliven its crisp red and black fruits. The 2019 leaves a web of fine tannins to linger and the mouth watering for more as hints of plum and licorice resonate. This is likely the most balanced and well-rounded Brunello I’ve ever tasted from La Fortuna. Bravo.Vinous Media | 92 VMWith vineyards in the northeast and southeast of the zone, La Fortuna brings the two together in the estate Brunello. Between the two, harvest lasted from 22 to 28 September in 2019. Following long ageing in Slavonian oak casks, it shows distinctly lifted floral scents of violet along with ripe garden herbs, tobacco and cocoa. The palate exudes ripeness with soft, yet succulent fruit. Tannins come across as gentle and enveloping at first then rebound with a surprising grip. Nevertheless, this will be approachable upon release.Decanter | 92 DEC

Made with organically farmed grapes, the 2019 Brunello from Villa I Cipressi is a fantastic wine, with classic Sangiovese aromas of violet, woodland berry, new leather and the barest whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and smooth, the savory palate doles out mature black cherry, blackberry, cake spice and licorice framed in firm, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOFresh and sweet berries with some floral and matchstick character on the nose. Medium body, fine tannins and a crisp finish. From organically grown grapes. Nice now, but will age nicely. Better in a year or two.James Suckling | 92 JSDusty violet florals, cloves, chalk dust and medicinal blackberries form an intense display as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass. This sweeps across the palate with lifted textures and floral-laced wild berry fruits, while hints of licorice and orange come forward toward the close. This tapers off staining and long with a slightly bitter note and gently grippy tannins that resonate.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Showing structure and great class, the 2019 Zebras from Villa I Cipressi is loaded with finesse. Fragrant and delicious, it boasts enticing aromas of wild red berry, baking spice and blue flower while the intense, full-bodied palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, raspberry tart, star anise and white pepper. A backbone of close-grained, polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an age-worthy structure. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOA medium-bodied red with cherries, blueberry and hints of cedar and sandalwood. Medium body. Attractive fine tannins that are fresh and not drying. From organically grown grapes. Very attractive to drink now, but will be much better in two or three years. Drink after 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Selezione Zebras is darkly floral, wafting up with a beguiling blend of dried roses and violets giving way to hints of licorice, lavender and finally crushed blackberries. This displays textures of pure silk, coming across round and pliant, with soothing wild berry fruits and a note of cedar that adds contrast toward the close. The 2019 leaves a coating of fine tannins and hints of balsamic spice, tapering off savory and full of youthful tension.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Intense aromas of black cherries, black truffle, orange peel and Indian spices. The palate is full yet reserved, with very fine tannins that fly linear and deep in the wine. Caressing texture. Reserved at the end. A real beauty. From organically grown grapes. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSBalsamic aromas of camphor and pine forest mingle with truffle and plum cake on the fragrant 2019 Brunello fro San Polino. It’s also delicious, with flavors of raspberry tart, plum cake, cinnamon and nutmeg accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins that lend seamless support. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOFrom San Polino’s holdings in the northeast on loamy clay soil. Exuberantly youthful and becoming, the 2019 rings out with violet and oily balsamic herbs. It gives a midweight impression – yet is packed with brambly fruit. An orange peel flourish is heightened by zesty acidity. And as this opens, savoury iron depths are revealed. Promising but needs to come together. Solid, clayey tannins clamp down on the finish.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dusty blend of dried flowers and strawberries enhanced by lemon oil touches. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and vividly ripe wild berry fruits lifted by orange and cedary spice. Its acidity wins the day, maintaining amazing freshness despite the grippy tannins that resonate throughout. The 2019 finishes long and staining with a pretty air of inner violet flowers that linger. San Polino continues to raise the bar; this is lovely.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Offering dark fruit and an articulate bouquet with elements of ripeness and balsamic herb, the Fanti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino releases its aromas in swells of licorice, dark plum, cured tobacco and sweet potting soil. In terms of palate, this Brunello delivers much of its intensity in an upfront manner with a blast of ripe fruit that fades quietly over the mid-palate. The tannins are softly integrated. This wine, with a production of 49,000 bottles, will be almost ready to drink after its release in January 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA firm and silky Brunello with some berry, cherry and cedar character, as well as meat. It’s medium-bodied and rather tight, but shows some polish. Better after 2026.James Suckling | 93 JSAromas of exotic brown spice, violet, new leather and eucalyptus form the nose Fanti’s 2019 Brunello. Intense and full-bodied, the palate delivers raspberry compote, mature cherry, cake spice and a hint of espresso. Tightly woven, close-grained tannins provide velvety support. Drink 2017–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOBalsam herbs and dark chocolate aromas give way to dried black cherries and pine shavings as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino pulls the taster close to the glass. This is a sleek and racy effort, with cool-toned acidity and dark red fruits that flow across a silken textural wave. It finishes spicy and long, also remarkably fresh, with edgy tannins that resonate as salted licorice hints slowly taper off. The balance within is stunning, yet don’t let the giving nature of the 2019 fool you; this is a wine for the cellar.Vinous Media | 92 VMLocated near the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Fanti counts 45 hectares dedicated to Sangiovese, of which just 10 are authorised for Brunello. The estate bottling comes from 20- to 30-year-old vines ranging in altitude from 150 to 450 metres. Aged in a combination of barriques and 30 hectolitre casks, the 2019 is forward and profuse in aromas. Sun-soaked oily herbs and grilled Mediterranean shrub echo the late Tuscan summer. Mint and rosemary repeat on the full-bodied, hearty palate. Tannins are mostly ripe though a slight astringency gives a pleasant tug. More rustic than elegant but this will surely have its fans.Decanter | 91 DEC

Made with grapes from the estate’s Sorgente, Piaggione and Teatro vineyards, the Salicutti 2019 Brunello is intensely fragrant, with alluring aromas of perfumed berry, iris, menthol and dark spice. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the delicious palate delivers crushed raspberry, black cherry, cake spice and crushed mint. It’s also bright and beautifully balanced, with vibrant acidity. What a beauty. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOShowing a lifted note of cherry cough drop or vapor rub, the Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino starts on a high note but then slides smoothly into aromas of purple fruit and wild blackcurrant. Those initial balsamic notes transition to leafy forest, bramble and underbrush that give this wine a very pure, almost botanical personality. Earthy and floral elements also appear, with a hint of sweet lilac, over a mid-weight mouthfeel with bright acidity and fine tannins. The wine flirts with ripeness but ultimately maintains a place of restrained elegance and near under-ripeness that bodes well for its future evolution. Fermentation in cement lasts up to 30 days, and the wine sees 40 months in oak casks. I have not seen a straight village bottling from Salicutti in a number of years, and this is a welcome addition.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of black cherries, peaches, orange peel and fresh flowers. Medium-bodied with firm, racy tannins and hints of tar and graphite. Fresh and firm. From organically grown grapes. Better in three or four years. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is earthy to the core, with a whiff of savory herbs and animal musk that blows off to reveal depths of dried black cherries and cloves. This is surprisingly energetic, nearly juicy in personality, with tart wild berry fruits that are enlivened by vibrant acidity as violet inner florals form toward the close. It finishes structured and long, yet its tannins are crunchy and sweet. The 2019 leaves traces of licorice and exotic spice to fade gradually. As youthful as this is, it’s almost impossible to put down. Salicutti has made a solid come-back in recent vintages.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe bright ruby 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is punchy, open, and medium-bodied, with spritely notes of red cherry and hints of tangy bright orange peel and clove.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDWhile Felix and Sabine Eichbauer purchased Salicutti in 2015, the 2019 vintage was the first made without the collaboration of former owner, Francesco Leanza. They have tweaked the Brunello making it a blend from all three vineyards surrounding the estate – Teatro, Piaggione and Sorgente. It is a bit imprecise and gamey to start, but with coaxing fragrant forest herbs emerge. It’s prettier on the palate, where youthful red berries and soft tannins coalesce. It might benefit from another year in bottle however, the structure doesn’t lend itself to long ageing.Decanter | 91 DEC

Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Salicutti Sorgente Brunello is gorgeous. The latest vintages are among the best I’ve had from Salicutti, and this wine is the best of all so far. It delivers classic Sangiovese aromas of violet, ripe forest berry, underbrush, leather and spice that on the delicious palate become more defined as ripe Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and tobacco. Firm, ultra-refined tannins offer enveloping support while bright acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe highest of Salicutti’s vineyards, Sorgente sits on heavier clay with a slight incline to the southwest. It is usually the last to be picked and was previously destined for the estate’s Rosso di Montalcino – yet this 2019 makes for a very convincing Brunello, demonstrating Sangiovese’s ability to soar weightlessly while reaching great depths. A splendid precision of peony, red currant blossom and red cherry aromas accompanies a sumptuousness to the palate, where plump red plum and watermelon are underscored by brilliant citrussy acidity. Suede-like tannins seem almost an afterthought, yet hold this wine together effortlessly. Just 3,000 bottles produced.Decanter | 97 DECThis wine comes from a vineyard site with compact clay soils and sees extended skin maceration. It comes as no surprise therefore to find extra concentration and intensity in the Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sorgente. This is a wine of impeccable balance that pits dark fruit weight against lifted, almost ethereal aromas. This is a difficult line to walk, and the Sorgente proceeds beautifully. On the one hand, you get a warm toasted note of roasted chestnut, brioche or sweet challah bread, and on the other, you get tart redcurrant and grenadine. There is an upward fruit crescendo that matches the chalky, fine-grained nature of the tannins. This wine ends on the proverbial high note. To think that Sorgente used to make the estate’s Rosso di Montalcino, and now it has come this far.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPBlack-cherry, bark, rose-stem and tea aromas follow through to a medium body with firm tannins and a tight, chewy finish. Reductive and holding back. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sorgente is like a veritable florist shop on the nose, blending roses and jasmine with lavender and wet stone before giving way to dried strawberries. It sweeps across the palate with textures of pure silk energized by zesty acidity as mineral-laced wild berry fruits add a crunchy sensation toward the close. The 2019 finishes with a pleasantly bitter tinge. An herbal thrust and flinty tannins clamp down hard, reminding the taster that this youthful Brunello is just at the start of its long journey to maturity.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

The Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione shows macerated aromas of cherry skin with a punchy, almost carbonic-adjacent quality that gives vibrancy and energy to the bouquet. Fruit comes from a site with lots of rocks and rich limestone soils. The bouquet starts off with tart pomegranate or rainier cherry, delivered with pinpoint directness, and then opens to embrace softer tones of underbrush, toasted fennel seed and cumin. The oak is almost invisible, although you do feel the enriched texture and the wine’s powdery tannins. The wine ends on a glossy note, but ultimately those tannins do stick around and you feel them for a long while.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAlso expressive, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Piaggione is ruby with a magenta tinge and offers notes of raspberry liqueur, violets, and polished wood spices. Refined with fine tannins and a very balanced texture, it’s velvety and has a long finish. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDCamphor, dark culinary spice, fragrant purple flower and a whiff of forest floor greet the nose on the compelling 2019 Salicutti Piaggione. It’s full-bodied and loaded with finesse, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, licorice, almond liqueur and blood orange before an almost salty finish. Polished tannins keep it smooth. A fantastic wine. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Piaggione vineyard is characteristic of southeast Montalcino. Rising steeply from 380 to 450 metres, it is bathed in the morning sun and caressed by winds from Monte Amiata. As it tends to give the estate’s most muscular wines, it was typically bottled as a Riserva before the estate changed hands. This 2019 is deceptively easygoing at first, with very lifted lavender and violet aromas that echo on the sweet-fruited palate. With time in the glass, however, its serious side is revealed as balsamic herbs and earthy undertones join the floral top notes. The palate tightens up as brisk acidity accentuates the dense, chewy tannins, and stony minerals build through the dark cherry core.Decanter | 95 DECPeppery roses and lavender slowly give way to crushed wild berries and tangerine as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione dazzles the senses. This is a model of purity, with racy acidity and cool-toned minerality setting the stage for its crisp red and blue fruits. A web of fine-grained tannins slowly saturates the palate. The 2019 finishes classically dry and firm while leaving tart raspberry and licorice to linger. There’s an exoticism to the 2019 Piaggione that I find wildly attractive.Vinous Media | 94 VMAl-dente fruit comes through on the nose, with fresh cherries and flowers, following through to a medium body with firm, silky tannins. Tight and focused with spices, stones and berries at the end. A little reductive. Built for aging. From organically grown grapes. Needs three or four years to open and come around. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is youthfully inward and darkly floral with an herbal tinge and hints of crushed ashen stone that give way to vivid black raspberry and exotic spice. This is juicy and spry, with racy cherry-berry fruit and stimulating acidity that creates a sensation of boundless energy, even as a saturation of primary concentration settles in toward the close. The 2019 finishes with incredible length and youthful tension, leaving balsamic spice, sage and licorice notes lingering over a bed of dusty tannins.Vinous Media | 97 VMBaricci shines with this stunning 2019, from the estate’s south- to southeast-facing plots at 300 metres on the Montosoli hill. It is still far too young, but everything is in place for a long and gratifying life. Preliminary cedar and vanillin nuances melt into sumptuous cherry, and there’s a pronounced stony, mineral edge along with juicy blood orange to impart further intricacy. Refined and graceful with layered substance, it has long, chalky, perfectly ‘al dente’ tannins and sappy, mouthwatering acidity.Decanter | 97 DECBaricci’s wines are some of the most distinctive and elegant in the appellation. Showing medium-rich concentration, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli delivers granite, slate, black cherry and dark currant in one very impactful dollop. The fruit condition is excellent, with a little under-ripeness that bodes well for the wine’s longevity. Montosoli has a bigger presence in the mouth compared to most, thanks to the pronounced mineral nuances, but the wine remains elegant throughout and especially on the mid-palate. Fruit for this wine comes from the estate’s oldest vines, aged 25 to 40 years old, in soils rich in marl, quartz, schist and marine fossils. Production is 16,560 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPRaised in 40 hl Slavonian oak barrels, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Montosoli was just recently botted and will need several months more before drinking. Medium ruby-colored, with notes of dark cherries and a sunny but pure feel, it also takes on notes of crushed rocks, and I like the mineral flourish here. Rounded and pure, with great freshness, a clean finish, and even acidity, it’s an inviting wine with a wide drinking window of 10-12 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JD

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Poggio Cerrino grumbles up from the glass with an earthy bouquet that blends crushed rocks with savory herbs, olive and clove. This displays textures of pure silk offset by cooling acidity as ripe red and black fruit slowly saturate. A bitter dark chocolate tinge develops through the close as the 2019 finishes youthfully tense and structured with fine tannins that frame the experience nicely.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2019 Tiezzi Vigna Poggio Cerrino is glossier and more refined than the Vigna Soccorso, offering aromas of iris, lavender, wild berry and a whiff of new leather. Linear and polished, the savory palate features juicy Morello cherry, strawberry compote, star anise and crushed mint alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and lifted. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

The beautiful 2019 Brunello Ugolforte from San Giorgio is elegantly structured and delicious. Showing the intensity of the vintage but also restraint, it delivers juicy raspberry, steeped cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside smooth, velvety tannins. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: N/A Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte opens with a minty freshness as flint stone and dusty rose give way to crushed cherries. Silky and pliant, this possesses an elegance not often seen, with violet and lavender tones accentuating its polished red and blue fruits. This tapers off with sweet tannins balanced by an orange hint. A structured yet mouth-watering sensation lingers on. What a beauty this is.Vinous Media | 94 VMFrom the sister property of Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio Ugolforte’s 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino takes a youthful ruby hue and is a riper style of Brunello, with rounded aromas of black raspberries, candied violets, sweet cedar, and fresh Mediterranean herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with ripe tannins and retains good freshness through its long finish. A lovely Brunello with a more rounded and approachable feel, it’s going to show at its best over the coming 12-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCherry and berry aromas with hints of sandalwood follow through to a medium body with integrated tannins that are fine and focused. Silky texture. Delicious finish. Very elegant with nice structure. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.James Suckling | 94 JSThere is deep black fruit and black plum on the San Giorgio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte. although it takes a little patience to get there. The wine is restrained or closed initially, and it’s hard to draw anything out for the first 15 minutes or so after the bottle is opened. Once it gets going, you are treated to sweet cherry, redwood, almond biscotti and dried rose potpourri. It ages in large Slavonian oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPFrom 25-year-old vines on steep stony slopes in Montalcino’s southeast. As with its sister Brunello from Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and long maceration. Aromas are dominated by oily herbs like winter mint, rosemary and sage at this early stage. Robust and broad, this emphasises vigour over finesse but is packed with personality. Spice and chocolate join balsamic nuances on a backdrop of glossy and concentrated dark red cherry. The tannic grip gives quite a tactile experience.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows delicate aromas of blue flower, redcurrant, cranberry and potting soils. It has all the basic components of a classic Sangiovese. Fruit is sourced from across the estate vineyard holdings ranging from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, or the ceiling of the appellation. Baking spice is delivered to the palate with silky, almost glossy tannins. The mouthfeel is extremely fine. This is a very Burgundian Brunello, with 38,500 bottles made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA beautiful cologne lifts from the glass of the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino, which pours a red/orange-tinged color. Aromas of wild cherries, truffles, bittersweet chocolate, and dried orange peel are followed by a medium to full-bodied red with fine, coiled tannins, a linear feel, and refreshing lift all the way through the finish. I love the tertiary notes that come through, and this wine will only improve and gain in complexity over time. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, dusty and floral, with depths of dark red fruit and exotic spice. This is silky smooth with medium-bodied textures and vibrant acidity that propels its tart wild berry fruits and mineral tones as rosy inner florals race across the palate. It tapers off with admirable length and concentration. Crunchy tannins frame the experience without slowing its momentum. The 2019 is a gorgeous blend of vintage and house style. Don’t miss it.Vinous Media | 93 VMRiccardo Campinoti’s estate Brunello is as much a panorama of the Montalcino zone as it is a demonstration of his approach. The sum of fruit from diverse plots in both cooler and warmer corners, it sports Le Ragnaie’s signature tautness. Delicately fragrant, the nose hints at game meat then transitions to brushwood, rosehip and alpine blossoms. Decidedly midweight, the cranberry and redcurrant core is all cinched in. Bright acidity and firm, crisp tannins provide a solid framework. This needs another year in bottle to reveal its depths.Decanter | 92 DEC

This wine kisses the sky with fruit from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at the highest point of the appellation (above 600 meters in elevation). This is a wine to watch in the future, especially as these vines grow older. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento has a fine and direct bouquet with vibrant red fruit, cranberry, pressed rose and rosemary blossom. Fruit and floral components run very strong, and you don’t get as much of the earthiness that we find in the other wines. Instead, it feels mineral and salty. Crunchy fruit and powdery tannins fuel a very long and polished finish with a contained 13.5% alcohol content. This wine is fluid and more of a shape-shifter. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTo close out the single vineyard wines, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Passo Del Lume Spento takes a youthful red/garnet-tinged color and, as with the rest of the wines of this vintage from Le Ragnaie, has a signature stamp of incredible perfume lifting from the glass out of the gate, with notes fresh Mediterranean herbs, ripe cherries, anise, and crushed rose petals. Ripe citrus-toned fruit fills the palate of this medium-bodied Brunello, which has great mouthwatering acidity that floats through the sides of the palate, angular tannins, and a mineral-toned finish. It’s packed with tension, though, and is deserving of another year or two of cellaring before drinking 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento opens with a mentholated freshness, as crushed stone and minty herbs complicate dusty dried strawberries. This is juicy in character and wickedly fresh, showing its minerality up front as a tart wave of wild berries descends upon the palate. It finishes with cheek-puckering tension, potent and primary, along with a coating of fine-grained tannins, all balanced by a bump of residual acidity. This is a spice bomb, yet it has the energy to balance. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at 621 meters.Vinous Media | 94 VMCampinoti’s highest altitude single-vineyard bottling comes from a one-hectare plot planted in 2011 at a lofty 621 metres. The third release as a Brunello, it hits its stride with the 2019 vintage. While still reserved in aromas, this sings with inner mouth perfumes of white blossom and rose against a backdrop of sour red cherry and pomegranate. The mouth-cleansing tannins are linear, and brisk acidity whisks the wine across the palate. Slender but not bony, this has sufficient flesh to harmonise the structure. Really quite thrilling in its sinewy, chiselled personality.Decanter | 94 DEC

The character of this wine is more accessible and open-knit. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso is less ethereal but more grounded, with an obvious delivery of fruit (and more primary intensity) framed by caramel, light tobacco leaf, redcurrant, cherry and wild plum. An herbal element comes forward too with white pepper and something fun that recalls cashew celery root. The mouthfeel veers toward chalky, and there is a hint of minerality with wet limestone or rose quartz. It shows managed tannins over mid-weight texture for a very elegant finish. These qualities give this 3,000-bottle release reasonable runway to age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe fourth vintage for this single vineyard, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Petroso takes a medium red color and has a gorgeous aromatic profile in its perfume of jasmine, dried cranberries, tangerine, and thyme. Displaying a Burgundian aesthetic, this medium-bodied Brunello has refined tannins, even, fresh acidity, and a delicate stony texture. It’s a beautiful wine that gently floats off the palate. With a wide drinking window, this is going to be one that’s hard to hold onto, but it will be worth cellaring. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso boasts a dark, rich, inviting blend of black raspberries, mint leaves and worn leather. Silky-smooth and elegant in feel, this easily flows across the palate, showcasing crisp red berry fruit enlivened by vibrant acidity. A wall of grippy tannins lingers as the 2019 tapers off primary and intense, promising many years of further development. I expect the Petroso to put on weight over time, which will complete this otherwise gorgeous wine. The potential here is incredibly high.Vinous Media | 95 VMFrom a 1 hectare, northwest facing plot, Petroso sits just below the Pietroso and Il Palazzone estates at an altitude of 500 metres. Surrounded by forests, it is a relatively cool site that was originally bottled as a cru Rosso. Compared to the cask sample I tried in 2022, the 2019 has shut down since bottling. The nose does show smoke, flint and pepper while the palate has just a suggestion of wild strawberry. With seemingly more structure than flesh at this point, tannins come across as slightly terse and austere. Another year or two in bottle will give a better indication of how it is resolving.Decanter | 92 DEC

The gorgeous 2019 La Gerla Brunello La Pieve opens with balsamic aromas of eucalyptus that mingle with lavender, new leather, tobacco and ripe dark-skinned berry. Smooth to the point of being creamy, it’s also full-bodied and delicious, delivering ripe black plum, raspberry, licorice and nutmeg alongside a backbone of velvety tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it lifted and balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe deep ruby/red 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino La Pieve is generous in its perfume of raspberry coulis, candied roses, sweet Mediterranean herbs, and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, it has good concentration, with angular, snappy acidity, ripe tannins, and a long finish. It’s an impressive wine that deserves time in the cellar. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDPlanted in 1997, La Pieve is a single vineyard in Montalcino’s southeast. The estate waited until the vines were a mature 20 years old before releasing this separate bottling, the first release being the 2017 vintage. This 2019 is the finest thus far. As it emerges from its shell, orange, cedar and liquorice bark rise from the glass. Mellowed and understated in its brambly fruit, it focuses its expression on savoury forest and exotic tea nuances. Full, yet nimbly poised and structured with commanding tannins, the finish is elevated by a salty mineral tang.Decanter | 95 DECIn the bottle with the black label, the La Gerla 2019 Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve reveals a 360-degree bouquet with generous fruit, dark currant, petrichor, wet slate and a mix of rosemary and grilled herb. This wine presents a classic Brunello bouquet that dovetails into medium fruit weight and very fine, grippy tannins. Production is limited to 6,320 bottles this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve opens with a mentholated freshness, blending dust rose with crushed stones and dried cherries. This displays silky textures contrasted by cooling acidity and minerals as tart red fruits slowly saturate. The 2019 leaves the palate caked in edgy tannins as it takes on a balsamic tinge and traces of clove slowly fade. La Pieve displays a classic feel yet also a hulking structural core. Bury your bottles deep.Vinous Media | 94 VMWith intensity to the cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit, this red is shaded with elements of tobacco, earth and wild herbs. Dusty tannins and lively acidity provide support, while a mineral component gathers steam on the salty, lingering finish. Best from 2026 through 2043. 1,167 cases made, 740 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSAromas of cherries, mushrooms and bark with some nutmeg. The palate shows plum, peach skin and citrus with some cedar. Medium body. Medium finish. Drink in a year or two.James Suckling | 91 JS

The Casanova di Neri 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows thick fruit fabric with stitchings of underbrush, pressed rose, bright cherry, tobacco and balanced oak spice. This wine definitely has a special groove. It offers a ripe, round texture with good acidity followed by fine, chalky tannins. This is impressive quality for 109,600 bottles produced. In fact, this is one of the best village Brunellos from Giacomo Neri and his family made so far.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of ripe cherry fruit is complemented by woodsy, mushroom, iron, spice and saline flavors in this intense red, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Though balanced, this could benefit from a few more years to really hit its sweet spot. Best from 2026 through 2042. 9,133 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSPouring a rich red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino White Label takes on layered, savory aromas of leather, tobacco leaf, dried cherries, mocha, and a light rustic quality, although it’s very well-balanced. Medium to full-bodied, it’s pure and energetic, with rich, ripe concentration and ripe tannins. It’s approachable now and is a great entry into the vintage, with accessibility high since about 100,000 bottles were produced. It’s also a great value. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JDRedcurrants and lavender followed by layers of dried herbs and spices. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate with chewy tannins. Persistent long finish with some citrusy undertones. Yet young, healthy and concentrated. Very attractive now and in the future.James Suckling | 92 JS

Aromas of bark, dark cherries and flowers, too. It’s medium- to full-bodied with purity of fruit that runs the length of the wine. It goes on for minutes. Very fine tannins. From organically grown grapes. Needs three or four years to completely come together, but gorgeous. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly alluring, with an earthy blend of crushed rocks and flowery underbrush, giving way to steeped plums and violet florals. This sweeps across the palate with juicy textures as exotic spices and crisp red fruits slowly saturate. The 2019 finishes long and staining, with crunchy tannins that frame the experience well without slowly its momentum as an air of lavender fades over a staining of black licorice.Vinous Media | 93 VMAn under-the-radar estate, La Serena is located directly east of the town of Montalcino. The organically cultivated vineyards sit at 400 metres on calcareous-rich clay with a southeastern exposition. The classy 2019 wafts with fragrant balsam wood, pressed rose and allspice. Fully packed and energetic, the palate shows impressive purity of spicy dark cherry with pleasantly puckering acidity. Chalky textured tannins are on the right side of extraction, building in power as they coat the mouth. This needs some time to temper.Decanter | 93 DEC

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dark and dusty bouquet as dried flowers and crushed stone give way to red currants. It’s soft textured with tactile mineral tones up front, adding a crunchy character to the tart wild berry fruits within. The 2019 finishes long and staining, leaving a tinge of balsamic spice and a liquid stone sensation that mellows over a bed of fine tannins. This is a brighter style for Mocali, and I like it quite a bit.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe Mocali 2019 Brunello opens with earthy, enticing aromas of new leather, blue flower, baked plum and forest floor. On the enveloping palate, tightly woven, close-grained tannins accompany fleshy black cherry, licorice, orange rind and nutmeg before a firm finish. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOThis is a richly textured Sangiovese with sweet plum, cooked cherry, spice and crème de cassis. The Mocali 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine focused mostly on texture and mouthfeel. It imparts nice weight to the palate with fine, chalky tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPStarts with black cherries, violets and bark, followed by a hint of crushed rock. Medium-bodied with stringent tannins. Still tight and a little lean now, this needs more time to soften. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 92 JS

Impressive aromas of fresh herbs from the Tuscan coast, such as sage, mint, rosemary and thyme. Blackcurrants, too. Full-bodied with fine, chewy tannins that show beautiful length and consistency. Racy and beautiful, with lots of subtle and refined character. Slightly more cabernet sauvignon this year, which adds class to the wine. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 10% petit verdot. Give this about three or four years of bottle age. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2020 Saffredi is compelling. Deep yet quite structured, 2020 is unlike any Saffredi I can recall tasting because of its balance of intense dark fruit and vertical structure. Plum, blackberry, pencil shavings, lavender and spice saturate the palate. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2020 is not as showy as most vintages at the same stage.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThis was the newest vintage tasted as part of this retrospective at the estate. The Fattoria le Pupille 2020 Saffredi shows signs of the hot vintage, especially when tasted in context with the gorgeous 2019, the more candied 2018, the toasted 2017 and the classic 2016 vintages. The 2020 definitely shows a riper and fuller character with bold, big-picture terms and fewer tiny details as a result. Elisabetta Geppetti refers to this edition as a "return to the Taschis school," referring to the celebrated Tuscan consultant Giacomo Taschis, whose signature style embraced balanced ripeness. This wine offers end notes of savory tobacco and spice.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSaffredi was first produced in 1987 and has rightfully forged its place in the pantheon of superTuscans. Elisabetta Geppetti’s son, Ettore now oversees the estate’s winemaking, and he told me that 2020 was ‘an Atlantic vintage’ with ‘left bank appeal’ – there’s not usually so much freshness evident in Saffredi. This could have something to do with the lower proportion of Merlot in the blend, down from the usual 20% to 10% since Merlot struggled in this vintage. Black fruit aromas are supplemented with violets and balsamic notes, while in the mouth plentiful tannins grip cassis and spiced plum. There’s a complexity of menthol, spice, chocolate and coffee, with a textured, woody mid-palate and a long, vibrant and youthful finish. Around 40,000 bottles produced.Decanter | 95 DECA rich, juicy nose presents handfuls of cherries and mulberries, along with slices of passion fruit, but a fresh savoriness keeps the sweetness in check. On the palate, dark chocolate brings depth, while tannins and acid attack in tandem. Bold and self-assured—a precise wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2020 Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi has a much more directly fruity nose than the 2019, with leafy redcurrant and bramble aromas and a bit of spice. It is more fruit-focused and simple at the moment. Likewise on the palate the 2020 is much lighter, less concentrated than the 2019 but it is also not overly forced or extracted and it has a lovely weight and texture, great purity of fruit and very elegant and refined tannins. The 2020 has a slightly cooler, more green quality to the fruit but it is beautifully pure and transparent.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIWell-structured and linear, this red frames a core of black currant and black cherry fruit with accents of toasty oak, sweet spices, tobacco and iron. Refined and harmonious, with the stuffing to develop over the next decade. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 through 2035. 3,750 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia shows beautiful minerality with dusty notes of crushed limestone or flint. This is the wine’s special signature, and it shines through in a warm vintage such as this. Rancia also offers an upfront quality of red and purple fruit tones. The 2020 vintage displays pretty concentration and richness with wild cherry and plum, but ultimately the wine leaves you with that elegant mineral sendoff. Rancia will require extra bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPIntense, with complex flavors of cherry, blackberry, violet, mineral and leafy underbrush, this red is silky and verges on racy. Harmonious and persistent, with a long, resonant aftertaste that echoes red fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,100 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA polished and very refined Rancia with sweet berries, cedar and hints of chocolate. Medium body. Fresh and focused. A little reserved at the end. It needs two or three years to come around. Best in 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe nose is a garden, with aromas of potting soil, herbs, roses and violet, but also has undertones of flint and pepper that provide an edge. Cherries and tart blackberries headline the palate, but a chalky, iron-rich earthiness carries over from the nose and dominates the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEMade since 1983, Fèlsina’s historic Riserva is a selection from the estate’s sunbathed six-hectare Rancia site. As always, it matures in barriques, 50% of which are new. The just released 2020 is particularly oak-driven: cedar and vanilla mingle with sage and grilled thyme. There’s ample fruit depth and concentration to flesh out the wood frame; tangy cherries are accented with baked earth and smoke. Grainy tannins start firm yet smooth, though they dry out on the finish.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva pours a rich ruby with a saturated magenta hue. It’s a bit reserved initially but holds onto a sunny and pure profile offering layers of blackberry coulis and a touch of sunny blue fruit, along with sweet sage, rocky earth, and fresh lavender. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with balanced richness and a weightless, rounded feel with sweet tannins and notes of pure black tea on the finish. It handles this warm vintage with a graceful feel, and although it might not be the longest-lived of these wines, I wouldn’t be surprised to find it showing beautifully in 15 or more years. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe estate’s 70 hectares of vineyards are characterized by two different soil types: marine sand versus Pietraforte. The Riserva is typically assembled from plots on the latter as the limestone-rich, rocky terrain yields more austere wines in need of age. Opening slowly, this reveals strawberry blossom, coriander and hints of tobacco. The palate is remarkably perfumed, with an undercurrent of rose and pepper running through the dark brambly berries. Firmly structured, ripe tannins wield an assertive grip, and the zesty acidity has a citrussy, blood orange ring that draws out the finish. Lots of life here.Decanter | 94 DECThis is complex and spiced with red and dark berries, dried orange peel, nut shell and toasted spices. Hints of walnut and crushed stones, too. Medium- to full-bodied with super polished tannins and juicy acidity. Delicious fruit character with a firm mineral backbone. Complete and focused. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSBing cherry and blood orange, potting soil, graphite and then wild herbs—especially sage—appear on the nose, before a whisper of vanilla and cedar. Juicy and fresh on the palate, with vanilla, chocolate and cherry, and then herbs emerging again on the back. A rare example of a wine with great sophistication that’s also an undeniable crowd-pleaser.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WETasted from barrel, the Castello di Monsanto 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva is 90% Sangiovese with 10% Canaiolo and Colorino that ages in various oak vessels for 18 months. This wine is poised to hit the market in January 2024, and 200,000 bottles will be shipped. It shows medium-dark concentration with typical aromas of wild cherry, peat moss, blue flower and light spice. This estate consistently offers well-made and compelling wines at a value price point.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPJust bottled, the 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva is stellar. It offers a beguiling mix of dense fruit supported by a core of vibrant acids. Striking aromatics, notable depth and exceptional balance make the Riserva a winner. This is a such a gorgeous and compelling wine.Vinous Media | 93+ VMA dense red, with well-defined aromas and flavors of black cherry and blackberry shaded by graphite, eucalyptus and cumin. Balanced, if still tightly wound, with a lingering fruity, savory and minerally finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2025 through 2038. 26,000 cases made, 17,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

A stellar wine, the 2020 Grattamacco is dark, vibrant and nuanced to the core. Black fruit, lavender, spice, leather, menthol and dried herbs infuse the 2020 with tons of character and complexity. Deep yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2020 is one of the most finessed Grattamaccos I can remember tasting. There’s incredible depth and resonance here, not to mention tons of personality.Vinous Media | 97 VMNext up is the 2020 Grattamacco, which really takes things up a notch. A deep ruby red, it offers decadent and harmoniously layered aromas of pristine oak spice, fresh leather, mossy earth, tobacco, and kirsch. Full-bodied and refined, it has a velvety texture, plush tannins, even acidity, and a long finish. This demands to be cellared and will continue to improve if adequately stored over the next two decades and likely beyond. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD‘This vintage gifted generous fruit with excellent, crisp acidities, alongside clean-edged balsam and pungent Mediterranean scrub,’ said winemaker, Luca Marrone. The grapes are hand-harvested in vineyards with an average age of 25 years. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in 7hl oak vats with a frequent and gentle manual pigeage, enabling long macerations and slow release of only fully ripe and noble tannins. This wine was aged for 18 months in oak barrels and bottled in August 2022. Restrained cassis and Mediterranean herb scents are allied to fresher red fruits and a floral touch. It’s very well composed, demonstrating an elegant and juicy style with great integration of oak and youthful, chewy fruit. A Bolgheri to wait for – this is intended for the long haul.Decanter | 96 DECA nose that is luxuriously fruity also has undertones of salt, flint and herbs providing balance. The palate runs wild with fruit but simultaneously offers notes of dark chocolate and a subtle spiciness to keep things lively. Tannins are chalky and resilient, and persistent acidity holds up a long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEAromatic nose of blackcurrants, berries and cherries, together with hints of flowers and smooth oak. Full-bodied with a super-clean and intense bead of fruit running through the lightly firm tannins to give a long, only lightly abrasive finish. From organically grown grapes. A classy, well-structured blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese. Drinkable now, but better from 2024.James Suckling | 94 JSThis 2021 Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso has a natural harmony and balance that is hard to beat. There is more of a range of delicate aromas on the nose, not just simply fruit or oak spice but little floral notes that come and go, a little hint of crushed rose petal or wild iris as well as bright cherry aromas and a very gentle background spice of oak. The nose is persistent and reveals layers of flowers and fruit, becoming more interesting in the glass. On the palate there is such a beautiful texture and weight and a real silkiness but without heaviness. The tannins are beautifully refined and harmonized within the wine and there is a cleansing sweep of refreshing acidity on the finish. This wine has a beautiful harmony to it. Supremely refined but with a strong sense of identity.The Wine Independent | 94 TWIElegant and linear in profile, this red boasts cherry, black currant, mineral, earth and Mediterranean scrub aromas and flavors. There’s fine tension and freshness, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Needs time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Best from 2025 through 2042. 5,400 cases made, 430 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMouthwatering acidity and taut, grippy tannins provide an appealing structure for this wine’s juicy blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. Scents of lavender and notes of tobacco and black pepper add complexity to the lively purple fruit tones. Beautifully balanced and energetic, this wine is a versatile partner at the table and an excellent introduction to the wines of Bolgheri.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 92 W&S

The Ornellaia 2020 Bolgheri Rosso Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia (a proprietary blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) is a generous and darkly toned red blend that has the extra fruit fiber, sweetness and generous plumpness of a warm vintage. The fullness of the fruit is on full display, but in a very relaxed and natural manner. The wine never feels like too much. The tannins are yielding and velvety, and this purebred Tuscan red wraps thickly over the palate. It’s poised for near- and medium-term drinking.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPProduced from 44% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2020 Le Serra Nuove Dell’Ornellaia is expressive with floral notes as well as dried lavender, sage, and black cherry. The oak (30% of which was new) is present but not out of balance and will benefit from another 6-12 months in bottle to integrate. The palate is full bodied, with fine tannins and refreshing acidity. It is long on the palate and cleans up with a soft texture, and there is ripe fruit through the mid-palate. This wine offers tremendous value packed in dollar-for-dollar. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JDThis muscular red is saturated with cherry, plum, vanilla and earth flavors. As solid and sinewy as the tannic structure is, the fruit matches it step by step on the long finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 through 2043. 3,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2020 Sassicaia is a bold, rapturous wine. Dark, fleshy and expansive on the palate, the 2020 offers up scents of blackberry jam, gravel, spice, new leather, licorice and crème de cassis. Potent tannins are nearly buried by the sheer intensity of the fruit. Sassicaia is never a huge wine, the 2020 does seem to have an extra dimension of textural intensity. It’s an intensity that is hugely appealing.Vinous Media | 97 VMFrosts damaged the the earlier-developing Cabernet Franc in late March, leading to reduced production but superb quality fruit. Spring was mild and summer was generally warm, but a rapid acceleration of maturation in late summer forced the team to begin picking in the first week of September to avoid any overripeness. A traditional 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc blend, its blackcurranty, dusty, leafy and cedary character is brought into focus by an intense and balsamic palate. It’s poised and light on its feet with super-fresh acidity and a fine-grained, almost imperceptible tannic structure. Ripe and tangy raspberry and blueberry fruits linger on the mid-palate, leading to a long, fresh finish with some cream and chocolate notes. This will reward cellaring into the 2050s, yet you’ll get plenty of pleasure from it in its youth. ’We advise to keep it at least 10 months in the bottle before opening,’ states third-generation Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta.Decanter | 97 DECA very perfumed Sassicaia on the nose with forest floor, citrus and deep dark fruits. Blackcurrants. Cedar and black tea. Some balsamic. Pine needles. Full and very succulent. Really long, structured and complete. Tangy and energetic with a linear line of fresh tannins and acidity. Very Sassicaia throughout. 85% cabernet sauvignon and the rest is cabernet franc. Very attractive now in a youthful and vibrant way, but this will be better in three to four years. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe Tenuta San Guido 2020 Bolgheri Sassicaia speaks to those who seek a more voluptuous, opulent and, ultimately, more accessible wine. This vintage is a precise reflection of Coastal Tuscany, as opposed to a more generic "Tuscan" wine from elsewhere in this large central Italian region. You taste the ripeness and soft fruit weight that comes from a coastal appellation with especially bright luminosity and warm Mediterranean offshore breezes. Sassicaia from the cool vintages is a famously reticent or withholding wine in its earliest years, requiring a long lead time before it eases into an ideal drinking window. That’s definitely not the case here. This wine is beautiful and compelling straight out of the gate, showing a lovely mix of dark fruit, oak spice, balanced freshness, textural richness, soft tannins and an expertly contained 14% alcohol content. The wine’s immediate character is what distinguishes this vintage, and I wouldn’t get too fussed by exaggerated cellar-aging ambitions. The wine awards sheer pleasure in its current form, with dazzling primary fruit and soaring intensity over the near and medium term.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP