Wine Ratings

wines

A ripe red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive of its place, with warming notes of licorice, black cherries, anise, cedar, and dark soil lifting from the glass. As it opens, it becomes purer in its fruit profile, shining through beautifully. Full-bodied, with ripe tannins and a savory slanting profile, notes of espresso and mocha float across the palate, filling it with purity of fruit and lovely concentration through its long finish. It’s a fantastic Brunello with a warming richness that can stand up to hearty winter foods and will be best enjoyed over the next 15 years. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe Uccelliera 2019 Brunello di Montalcino offers ripe fruit, a note of cooked blackberry and pomegranate juice. Along with oak spice and dried bay leaf, there is a spot of creaminess on the mid-palate that recalls cheese rind or aged chèvre with a crust of black pepper and thyme. That note blows off, however, and the wine returns to dried cherry with a medicinal or herbal twist. There’s a lot going on. The wine needs more time in bottle to address the fine, chalky tannins. It is elegant now but poised to improve. Production is 36,000 bottles plus larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPBrooding yet intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino bursts from the glass with a wave of autumnal spices, crushed cherries, cedar shavings and steeped plums lifted by pine hints. This is deeply textural, elegant and refined, with a dense wave of ripe wild berry fruits, all guided by vibrant acidity, offset by oranges and balsam herbs. It finishes grippy and extended with a black hole of tension and a sweet and sour sensation that lingers on and on as crunchy tannins resonate throughout. The 2019 is youthfully backward today, yet there’s a balance that can’t be denied, especially as I watched it open up over twenty-four hours. This is a total pleasure to taste. Bury the 2019 deep in the cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of scorched earth and truffle mingle with blue flower, leather and pipe tobacco on the bold 2019 Brunello from Uccelliera. It’s full-bodied and concentrated but also has great energy, delivering fleshy raspberry, black cherry extract, dried mint and licorice before a nutty close. Tightly wound, close-grained tannins provide firm support while bright acidity keeps it vibrant and balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOPerfumed and attractive with black-cherry and berry aromas, as well as lavender and rosemary flowers. Medium body with firm tannins and a juicy finish. Needs bottle age to soften. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSHaving tasted its component parts from barrel in 2021, I was fascinated to see how Uccelliera’s Brunello came together. Andrea Cortonesi assembles this from a handful of plots all located in the denomination’s southeastern corner. It opens with fragrances redolent of cedar and pine forest, undergrowth and leather. Full and vigorous, the palate is foursquare rather than round. A compact core of dark cherry is surrounded by chewy, generously extracted tannins. A touch of dryness from wood pokes through. Nevertheless, this feels very genuine and underlying acidity gives a lightening effect.Decanter | 93 DEC

Andrea Cortonesi and his unique project in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, featuring refined and sensitive readings of Sangiovese. Very floral at the smell, with wild iris and gardenia, then red mulberry and cloves. Refined to the sip, with spicy nuances.Luca Gardini | 98 LGPouring a reflective red/garnet hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is floral and detailed on the nose, with preserved cranberries, cherries, anise, fresh roses, and polished leather. The palate is medium-bodied, structured, and bright, with chalky, angular tannins, refreshing acidity, and fabulous fruit purity that carries through a long finish. It’s exceptional and crisp, and it should easily hold up for 20 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA spicy and classic Brunello with vibrant aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries, violets, smoky wood and licorice. Full-bodied, it shows balanced extraction, tamed velvety tannins, refreshing acidity and a super-savory, minerally finish. Juicy and long. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSMinty herbs mix with shavings of pine, dried strawberries and dusty earth as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. It displays exceptional finesse and grace, with silken waves of ripe red and blue fruits elevated by fresh acidity. Inner rose tones and a tactile mineral crunch add form toward the close. The 2021 leaves a pleasantly chewy sensation and a tart blackberry twang, tapering off with excellent length and a totally classic feel.Vinous Media | 95 VMBold and beautiful, the Uccelliera 2021 opens with aromas of dark exotic spice, Mediterranean scrub, lavender and eucalyptus. On the full-bodied, enveloping palate, notes of vanilla, licorice and oak accent a black cherry core. It’s young but balanced, with firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe Uccelliera 2021 Brunello di Montalcino, produced in 34,733 bottles plus 900 magnums, shows a deep core of dark fruit and black cherry while remaining gracefully vertical and bright. Notes of spice, forest floor and sweet earth weave through the fruit, creating balance and a steady sense of richness that carries seamlessly across the palate. Grapes are harvested with the use of dry ice and fermented in stainless steel on indigenous yeasts, followed by 36 months of aging in oak vessels of varying sizes. All of this locks in aromas. The fruit comes from Castelnuovo dell’Abate at elevations ranging from 150 to 350 meters on mineral-rich, rocky soils, and this bottling once again underscores Andrea Cortonesi’s ability to translate terroir with precision and consistency.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThere are no single-vineyard bottlings at Uccelliera. Instead, owner Andrea Cortonesi brings together a diversity of plots from various altitudes, exposures, soils, vine age and clones for one complex sum. The 2021 divulges its balmy, southeastern origins with all the robustness and vigour one would expect, while managing to remain surprisingly poised. Nevertheless, this veers more to power than grace. A youthful wood imprint is absorbed by the fleshy, dark-toned fruit. Eucalypt, nutmeg and tarragon infuse. The bold and grainy tannins need more time to resolve.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC