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The Mastrojanni 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has a pretty bouquet with dark fruit and something exotic that recalls camphor ash, wood fire ash, garrigue and dried herb. It is rich and evenly concentrated with fine chalk on the tannins and good phenolic ripeness (with no green bitterness). A great food pairing is grilled game or the French magret de canard. This straight village bottling does a great job, and it’s ultimately more accessible than many of its peers. Production is an ample 77,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of toasted nut, forest floor, new leather and blueberry tart take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the enveloping palate doles out fleshy black cherry, blood orange, licorice and hazelnut along with a hint of chocolate covered mint. Tightly-woven, close-grained tannins provide support. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KODeep red berry fruits, sweet spice, cinnamon and cloves introduce the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is silky to the core, with depths of red fruit and spice, all guided by juicy acidity. Licorice and clove combine with tart raspberry as the 2019 finishes surprisingly fresh and only lightly structured.Vinous Media | 93 VMIn November 2022, Francesco Illy sold his stakes in the family’s coffee empire and bought out his siblings’ shares of Mastrojanni. Along with the latter, he also owns the nearby Podere Le Ripi. While the two estates are separately run, both are now farmed according to organic and biodynamic tenets. Pretty yet delicate in fragrances, the nose expands gradually with jasmine, tobacco and flinty stone. Midweight with a richness of red cherry and long, fine tannins. But this finishes rather briskly. Perhaps another year in bottle will coax out more expression.Decanter | 91 DEC

Iris, lavender, wild berry, camphor and exotic spice are just some of the aromas you’ll find on the fragrant 2019 Vigna Loreto. Taking over where the palate leaves off, it delivers ripe black cherry, blackberry, licorice and tobacco alongside brooding, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity lends youthful tension. Exemplifying the vintage, this is a fantastic, age-worthy Brunello that needs time to come around. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOShowing cracked white pepper and wet slate, this wine definitely brings you to a clear sense of place. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto is precise and delineated, but as the wine opens, you get interludes of ripe fruit, blackcurrant and oak spice. The wine is faceted with many layers and angles. Bright cherry sits on the palate with good length leading to fine, chalky tannins. You get an authentic taste of Montalcino in this wine. I prefer the Vigna Loreto this year to the more expensive Vigna Schiena d’Asino (from 2018). This is a 9,500-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPBlackberries, menthol, sage, stone dust and cloves define the youthfully restrained 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto. This flows across the palate with ease, silky with depths of ripe raspberry and sour cherry as fine-grained tannins saturate toward the close. It finishes spicy and long, structured yet lively while stimulating the imagination with its future potential. Hints of cocoa, lavender and current leaf linger, seeming to last for well over a minute. Color me impressed.Vinous Media | 96 VMOverlooking the Orcia river, the southeast facing Loreto vineyard rises 400 metres high. Tasted next to the estate Brunello, it definitely demonstrates greater stage presence. Intense plum and cherry are interlaced with exotic spice, chinotto and sweet herbs. The vintage’s inner mouth perfumes are at the fore, elevating compact fruit. Gravelly-textured tannins bolster the whole; yet these are more elegant than potent. Ends with a liquorice twist. While this should unwind gracefully, I do not believe this will be among the vintage’s longest-lived wines.Decanter | 94 DEC