Wine Varietals

wines

The 2020 Savennières “la Jalousie” bottling from Domaine du Closel is nicely low in octane in this vintage, tipping the scales at twelve percent alcohol. The bouquet is bright and complex, hopping from the glass in a vibrant mix of sweet quince, flinty, chalky soil tones, citrus peel, lanolin and a gentle floral topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and zesty, with a good core of fruit, lovely soil signature, a fine spine of acidity and impressive length and backend lift on the long, complex and well balanced finish. This is lovely young Savennières. (Drink between 2023 - 2050)John Gilman | 92 JGA racy, linear style introduced by pureed apple and crunchy orchard fruit edged in honeycomb. Shows wet stone accents that line the lean palate, with delicate floral notes. An upright, focused version, thanks to flint shavings and vibrant acidity. Drink now through 2028. 1,500 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2020 Viré-Clessé Quintainé Cuvée E.J. Thevenet was matured in epoxy-lined vats to regulate the temperate and oxygen ingress. The alcoholic fermentation finished around the beginning of summer. What a beautiful nose: dried honey, dandelion and a touch of lanolin coming through with time. This is very pure. The palate is slightly viscous on the entry, with admirable weight, a little waxiness and touches of ginger and curry leaf towards the complex finish. Recommended.Vinous Media | 92 VMI sold and drank Jean Thevenet’s wines dating all the way back to the vintages of the late1980s. But, it had been many, many years since I tasted one of the Domaine de la Bongranbottlings, as the last vintage of this wine that I sampled was the 2009. At that time, Jean’s sonGauthier was just taking the reins of the domaine. The 2020 Viré-Clessé is made in the long-timestyle of the estate, with very late picking, so that the wine comes in at 14.5 percent octane in thisvintage. It offers up a deep, tropical and botrytized bouquet of pineapple, pear, hazelnuts, brownedbutter, chalky soil tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused andcomplex, with a superb core of fruit, snappy acids…The wine is impeccably made and is probably about as good an example of botrytized chardonnay that one will ever taste.” John Gilman A View From the Cellar | 92 JG

This program appears to have gone through quite a dramatic transformation over the past years, passing from more extracted wines to much lighter and brighter expressions instead. The Prunotto 2020 Barolo is a big release of nearly 134,000 bottles, with fruit sourced from a variety of vineyards. More than its DNA, however, it’s the style of the wine that has taken a radical departure. This Barolo shows a light ruby color with a fragrant bouquet focused mostly but not only on violets and lilacs; red fruits follow with hints of aniseed and crushed stone. It’s easy-drinking, but it also shows new purpose, and that’s not an easy feat for a production this large.Robert Parker wine Advocate | 93 RPMacerated cherry, strawberry and menthol flavors mark this supple red. Balanced and lively, with a light, chalky feel on the finish. In the end, this is savory. Best from 2026 through 2042. 1,950 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe straight 2020 Prunotto Barolo is refined and fragrant, offering aromas of eucalyptus, wild herb, star anise, dog rose and perfumed berry. It’s also already extremely accessible, with a smooth palate that features succulent strawberry, blood orange and licorice alongside silky tannins. Drink through 2030. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 91 KOThe 2020 Barolo is a lovely entry-level offering from Prunotto. Medium in body and ethereal, the 2020 shows the more gracious, understated side of Barolo off to great effect. Crushed flowers, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, herbs and citrus peel are beautifully liftedVinous Media | 90 VM

Silver Oak’s 2020 releases of Napa and Alexander Valley Cabernets are downright impressive. Tasted four years after the fires, in September of 2024 at the Alexander Valley winery, neither wine showed any sign of the hardened tannic structure or overwrought fruit often associated with the vintage. Instead, these wines remain true to Silver Oak’s signature style, with blackcurrant, fig, and plum fruits layered with white pepper, sweet cedar, and coriander spice. Medium-bodied, with sculpted tannins that persist through the lengthy finish, the Alexander Valley Cabernet in particular retains all the hallmarks of a balanced, inviting, and vibrant Silver Oak red.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a crisp bouquet with crushed rock mixed with touches of dried flowers and a light sea spray note - classic Chablis really. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry. Touches of dried honey and chamomile, but underneath it all is a fine mineral spine and a decent, quite Les Preuses-like finish. Fine. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.Vinous Media | 91 VMThough ripe, offering aromas and flavors of lemon cake, melon and white flowers, there’s also a stony, mineral element underneath this balanced white, which ends with a light chalky sensation. Drink now through 2028. 712 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Made from a mix of 60% Domaine Eden and 40% Mount Eden fruit, the 2021 Chardonnay is always a sophisticated wine that overdelivers on its price point, with fresh floral aromatics leading to a medium-bodied mid-palate of beautifully oaked pear and hazelnut layered in juicy acidity. Ready to drink now, it should age equally well, from now through 2031 at least.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDComing from a plot at 1,600 feet in elevation, the 2021 Chardonnay also includes about 25% declassified fruit from the Mount Eden estate. Spice-laden and taut, a super-enlivening core of vibrant acidity and white pepper bitterness here conveys seriousness. Nuances of tangerine peel, spearmint, crushed rocks and clove emerge on both nose and palate, coasting through the driven, precise finish. Well done.Vinous Media | 93 VMCrushed rock, lime pith and a hint of tonic water show on the nose of this bottling, the sister project to the iconic Mount Eden Vineyards. There’s a zesty spray of citrus on the palate that enlivens the subtle peach flavors and earthy minerality. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2021 Chardonnay is initially tight on the nose, opening up to reveal flashy aromas of white peach, nectarine and crushed hazelnuts. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with a charming finish of citrus flavors flanked with toasty richness. It is a solid example of what one can expect from this property year in and year out, offering terrific value and classically proportioned balance.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPBig and bold, with plenty of toast, spice and butterscotch notes up front, plus a core of peach cobbler, poached pear and caramel apple. The plush frame offers a vibrant thread of acidity, keeping the flavors fresh. Drink now. 2,163 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Here the wood treatment is somewhat more prominent though it is still reasonably discreet and easily allows the spicy nose of plum, green tea, dark currant and humus to be appreciated. There is fine volume and punch to the caressing yet powerful middleweight plus flavors that culminate in a dusty, palate coating and impressively lingering finale. This compact effort should amply repay mid to longer-term keeping.Burghound | 93 BH

Here too a discreet application of wood is present on the equally cool, wonderfully pure and exceptionally pretty aromas of essence of red currant, violet, lavender and a hint of earthiness. There is both excellent volume and mid-palate density to the intense and sleek mouthfeel that is again thanks to the polished tannins supporting the focused and sneaky long finish. As is often the case with the Lignier Charmes, it is a combination of power and finesse.Burghound | 92-94 BH

The perfumed nose is very pretty with a beautifully layered array of cherry, plum, spice and soft earth and sauvage nuances. The focused, intense and beautifully delineated medium-bodied flavors possess evident minerality that also suffuses the dusty and youthfully austere finale. This could use better depth but the balance is impeccable and overall, it should age gracefully for as long as anyone might reasonably want to.Burghound | 94 BH

A more floral and elegant nose freely offers up its slightly riper array of plum, black cherry and exotic spice nuances. The lilting and beautifully detailed middleweight flavors deliver outstanding length on the balanced, youthfully austere and stony finale. This doesn’t presently have quite the same depth as the Clos l’Audignac but the texture is more sophisticated and overall, this is class in a glass.Burghound | 93 BH

Lavender, eucalyptus, underbrush and dark spice aromas form the nose on the lovely Camigliano 2021 straight Brunello. Taut and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate features ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, licorice and orange zest accompanied by a backbone of velvety tannins. It’s nicely balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5 % Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet of crushed strawberries and cherries, complicated by cedary spices and nuances of blood orange. It shows the weight and pliancy of its southern roots, with depths of mineral-inflected red berry fruits and mulling spices. The wine tapers off with medium length, gentle structure and a subtle cranberry tinge that pinches at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis has a savory character of cured meat, iron and wet stones, with spices and red berries in the background. The medium- to full-bodied palate is sleek and smoothly integrated, with well-defined yet supple tannins and a fleshy core of red fruit. Bright and juicy. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 93 JSThe Camigliano 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a certified organic wine that opens with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant followed by an oak-driven tarry and smoky note that adds weight to the bouquet. The aromatic profile is robust and persistent with a clear emphasis on dark fruit grown on the estate’s warmer southwestern exposures, and the palate closes with a hint of sweetness, soft tannins and a fundamentally velvety mouthfeel, making this an immediately approachable Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIn Montalcino’s balmy western extreme, Camigliano was among those significantly hit by frost in 2021. The estate lost up to 90% in its lowest parcels, 30% in the rest. Ripeness and concentration are palpable in this hedonistic offering, yet it avoids jamminess as fruit purity is kept intact. Leather, vanilla and rust permeate the wild red berry core, while soft, plush tannins give luxurious layers that are stratified by sweet acidity. A generous and immediate Brunello with legs and stuffing for the next decade.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Crushed blackberries mix with sweet lavender and mentholated cherries as the sensual 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is cooling to the senses with a lifted array of ripe plums and strawberries elevated by an herbal tea infusion. Youthfully structured and linear today, it has a balance for cellaring, as a pleasantly tart tinge lingers long.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of violet, ripe dark-skinned berry, dark spice and wild herb form the inviting nose on the lovely 2021 Brunello from La Poderina. Juicy and polished, the palate offers ripe black cherry, raspberry and licorice set against taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KODriven by dark fruit and spice, the La Poderina 2021 Brunello di Montalcino carries a high-octane profile with sweet tannins and a clearly felt 15% alcohol that shapes the wine’s overall impression. There is a softer side on the palate with ripe plum fruit and an opulent, approachable texture, though the style remains fairly one-dimensional, favoring immediacy over depth in this warm-vintage expression. Aging follows a regime of 24 months in oak followed by 20 months in stainless steel, with fruit drawn from 12.5 hectares of vineyards. Production totals 67,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPToasty and fruity wine with assertive, leafy aromas blended into the red cherries and raspberries. Light- to medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky tannins that are nicely poised, but turn dry on the finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 92 JS

Restrained aromas of red cherries, raspberries, dried flowers, licorice, prunes and tobacco. Full-bodied, juicy and savory, it shows a very tasty palate with velvety tannins and a chalky, refreshing finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is expressive in the glass, with notes of crushed black cherries, sage, mint, cedar shavings and white smoke forming its inviting bouquet. It soothes the senses with silken textures and cool-toned acidity, as ripe plums and wild berries sweep across the palate. Edgy tannins envelop the palate with youthful poise. The 2021 finishes long and spicy, leaving a pleasantly bitter tinge to linger.Vinous Media | 93 VMFramed by an earthy, dusty mineral tone, the Mocali 2021 Brunello di Montalcino delivers pressed blackberry and plum followed by spice and spent ember in a bold, upfront style. A hint of sweetness on the palate softens the texture and keeps the tannins accessible, though the wine ultimately feels fairly one-dimensional on the close. Aging takes place over two years in French oak botte followed by one year in large Slavonian oak casks, an élevage that clearly defines the estate’s stylistic imprint. Production totals 50,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is a youthful ruby red color and is expressive and nicely layered on opening, leading with aromas of cedar, toasted baking spice, redcurrants, orange peel, menthol, and cranberries. Zesty and refreshing, this medium-bodied Brunello has fine tannins, bright acidity, and notes of dusty earth on the finish. Drink 2026-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDIn Montalcino’s southwest, Mocali’s vineyards reach 400m above sea level on limestone-rich marls. The 2021 exudes its Mediterranean landscape with pine, strawberry bush and sundried tomato – hints of soy and vanilla add further nuance. Mouthfilling though not heavy, lush plum is swathed in soft, clayey tannins. Above all, the palate impresses with savoury, saline mineral appeal. Balanced and mellowed without lacking vibrancy, it will please upon release.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

This estate makes a bevy of terrific dry whites in addition to an incredible Sauternes. Starting with the 2021 Lions De Suduiraut Blanc Sec, which is a blend of 52% Semillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc, it offers subtle grapefruit and citrus notes, a kiss of minerality, and a refreshing, vibrant, wonderfully balanced style on the palate. It’s a seriously good bottle of wine to drink in its youth.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2021 Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec is gorgeous. Rich, creamy and expressive, the 2021 is exquisite in its balance of textural richness and freshness. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, lemon oil and chamomile envelop the palate, while bright floral accents perk up the finish. Lions is the new name for the Blanc Sec, which is the same wine as before.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGA tangy white with sliced grapefruit, apple and celery character. Medium body. Fresh finish. White pepper. Dry and chalky.James Suckling | 91 JS

The 2021 Zinfandel Old Vines shows plenty of Lodi exuberance. Succulent red/purplish fruit, leather and sweet spice are front and center, with bright acids that perk things up on the mid-palate and finish. The 2021 is delicious and also a terrific value.Antonio Galloni | 92 AG

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Spry and briary, this Zinfandel is fun to drink, with lively black cherry, licorice and dried sage flavors, which take on richness and cracked pepper accents toward zesty tannins. Drink now through 2031. 4,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, 80% aged in oak, has a delightful bouquet with orchard fruit, lemon verbena and orange pith scents that burst from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite precise with a welcome touch of bitter lemon that keeps the finish on edge. Not a long-term Bougros perhaps, but finely crafted. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The bread-and-butter wine here is the 2021 Bela, produced with Tempranillo from the village of Villalba de Duero (mentioned on the label), from sandy and clay rich soils on limestone mother rock that delivers powerful but not overripe wines with a short-ish élevage to achieve a fine-boned and fresh wine. The grapes were picked between October 1st and 25th, mostly Tempranillo but some 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot too, and it matured in French oak barrels for nine months. The wine has 14.3% alcohol, a pH of 3.57 and close to five grams of acidity, textbook parameters from the zone and textbook profile of classical Ribera; it’s ripe without excess, with very integrated oak and a velvety palate with silky tannins. It reminds me of the historical wines from the early 1990s, Valribeño and so on, with some rusticity but very honest and characterful. With time in the glass, it develops a precise note of licorice intermixed with berry fruit and some spices and herbs. They feel this is the wine they wanted to produce from the beginning; they consider it their best vintage to date irrespective of the style of the year, with 2019 more powerful, 2020 more elegant and this 2021 something in between. 85,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

I loved the 2021 Lirac Blanc, one of those whites that truly over-delivers. Beautiful notes of pear, white flowers, citrus, and some salty, mineral-like nuances define this beauty, and it’s medium-bodied, with terrific balance, integrated acidity, and a great, great finish. Bravo. Drink this over the coming 2-4 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThere’s a touch of oak on the nose and palate that helps to frame the tangy citrus notes, and lends a touch of spice, but it’s far from overwhelming. Full-bodied, classically Lirac in its breadth on the palate. Ends on a nip of grapefruit bitterness. Good acidity. Also contains Marsanne, Viognier and Piquepoul.Decanter | 92 DECBrimming with stone-fruit aromas with a touch of mango, this is a rich but very clean and crisp dry white from the Southern Rhone. Good concentration and a touch of positive tannin help it carry the generous body and 14.5% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

The 2021 Morgon offers open-knit raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit on the nose. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy tannins, fine acidity and quite spicy red berry fruit mixed with white pepper towards the finish. Great potential here.Vinous Media | 92 VMAromas of cherries, plums and berries mingled with hints of peony introduce the 2021 Morgon, a medium to full-bodied, ample wine that’s a touch firmer and more structured than its Fleurie counterpart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90+ RP

The 2021 Morgon Côte du Py Javernières takes more time to open on the nose compared to the regular Morgon. This is more introspective with scents of melted tar and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-tuned tannins. There is a touch of spiciness and greenness but these elements are nuanced and merely lend complexity. A healthy dash of black pepper completes a very fine and cerebral Morgon.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2021 Morgon Côte du Py Javernières is a taut, structured wine that will demand a little patience, even in this giving vintage. Offering up aromas of plums, red berries, sweet spices and licorice, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and vibrant, with powdery tannins and tangy acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP

Rose petal, pomegranate and an herbal blast of oregano and marjoram show on the nose of this bottling from an historic producer in the mountains east of Salinas. The palate is snappy in acidity with plenty of herbal influence, offering thyme-flecked strawberry-sauce flavorsWine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Droin’s Montmains site is on a gentle slope with richer, deeper, kimmeridgian marl soils. A colder site, making the wine richer and with great density on the palate. Distinctly more weight than the Vaillons, giving the blend plenty of gravitas. 8-10 months ageing on fine lees adds a creamy character with acidity less pronounced than with the Vaillons. Classy.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a classic Chablis-like bouquet with scents of shucked oyster shell and light fumé notes emerging from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a saline, lemon rind infused entry, moderate weight, perhaps not quite as precise as the Vaillons yet with satisfying persistence. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn even more floral-suffused nose speaks of the pretty essence of pear and apple while offering better overall typicity. The palate impression of the middleweight flavors is also plump, round and fleshy with its reasonably persistent, dry and balanced finale that also could use better depth. This attractive effort should be approachable young yet also reward 4 to 7 years of keeping.Burghound | 89-92 BH