Wine Varietals

wines

The Moccagatta 2021 Barbaresco Bric Balin does not quite have the high tones of the Basarin. Indeed, the tenor here is baritone, with dark fruit, spice and iris root. In terms of mouthfeel, this wine offers a very fine and silky texture that gives the wine a polished or glossy feel. Bric Balin is a proprietary name, but the fruit comes from the Muncagota MGA. This is an 8,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Barbaresco Bric Balin has shut down a touch since I last tasted it a year ago. It shows good energy and persistence, along with better oak integration than the straight Barbaresco and Basarin. I would give this time in bottle, as it is pretty unyielding today, uncharacteristically so for a Moccagatta Barbaresco.Vinous Media | 94 VMA saturated dark ruby color, the 2021 Barbaresco Bric Balin reveals a good deal of luxurious oak spice that’s forward in the glass with aromas of black cherry liqueur, toasted baking spice, cedar, dried orange peel, and espresso. Medium to full-bodied, it saturates the palate with ripe tannins, concentrated richness of fruit, and evenly balanced acidity that lasts through the long finish, with lovely undercurrents of dark minerals. A modern style, but with a lot of depth and complexity, it deserves cellaring to see if it will harmonize, and I do think it will. Drink 2027-2047.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDSpice box, toasted nuts, wild cherries and sandalwood on the nose. Firm and chewy, full-bodied, with broad and muscular tannins. Pretty wood spice. Needs a few years to come together. Try in 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSVanilla and resin aromas complement the plum, cherry and tobacco flavors in this flamboyant red. Clove and allspice chime in as the dense tannins swell on the compact finish. Best from 2028 through 2043. 1,300 cases made, 433 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

This wine comes from a 1.5-hectare plot with white soils and 40- to 50-year-old vines. Pajoré tends to produce austere wines with an etched mineral note and without the glossy softness you can get in some of the other parcels. The Sottimano 2021 Barbaresco Pajoré saw submerged-cap fermentation until January 20, 2022, marking one of the longest maceration times to date for this estate. This pretty wine has a ferrous or metallic note coupled with crushed mineral. These shape an angular, almost cubist personality. However, you also get tart cassis and crushed peppercorn. The wine is indeed more austere, and this bodes well for a long aging window. The tannins are grippy and tight. Production is 6,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Barbaresco Pajorè has shut down massively since I tasted it last year. Dried herbs, menthol, incense, game and tobacco infuse the palate with tremendous complexity. Readers will find an austere, classically built Barbaresco for the cellar. Time in the glass brings out the natural breadth and structure of Pajorè. Quite simply, this is an archetype. What a wine.Vinous Media | 96+ VMSo perfumed, the 2021 Pajorè from Sottimano is a stunner, with enticing aromas of mocha, ripe red berry, camphor, violet and forest floor. The intense, full-bodied palate is super savory, delivering succulent raspberry, Marasca cherry, baking spice, star anise and hints of hazelnut before a cool, minty finish. Tightly knit, close-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. A gorgeous wine. Drink 2028–2036.Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOCherry, raspberry, earth and mineral aromas and flavors highlight this solidly built Barbaresco. Taut and dense yet refined, with a linear profile and excellent length. Best from 2027 through 2043. 600 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA floral and fruit-filled escapade awaits with each sip of this enchanting wine. Enticing aromas transport you to a garden in full bloom, where fresh wild cherries play amidst swirling rose petals and fragrant herbs. On the palate, ripe red fruits mingle with sweet spices, guided fine tannins and lifted acidity that keep each sip lifted and in balance. Drink from 2026 Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Red berry, wild rose, botanical herb and truffle aromas lead the nose on the impressive 2021 Basarin from Sottimano. Firm and elegantly structured, the delicious, focused palate features juicy black cherry, licorice and mocha before closing on a hint of saline. It has great energy thanks to bright acidity while alongside decisive, tightly woven tannins provide the framework. It’s still edgy and nervous and needs time to fully develop. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOAndrea Sottimano says 2021 was one of the best vintages he has seen. There was a lot of snow during the winter that created abundant water reserves lasting throughout the summer. It was a late-ripening vintage, with cool nights, and Andrea harvested until his birthday on October 24th. The 2021 Barbaresco Basarin is expressive and complex with very precise aromas of cassis, navel orange, pulverized stone and licorice root. The tannins are chalky, and the wine offers a pretty sense of lingering sweetness. Winemaking is traditional, with up to three months of submerged cap and aging in botti. Fruit comes from a three-hectare site in Neive with old vines on white soils. Production is 9,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis Barbaresco opens with a seductive nose that perks up the senses. Hints of spiced wild berries, smoked black tea, crushed dried leaves and baking spices swirl in the glass as delicate floral notes woo the senses even more. Elegant and refined yet with a classic Nebbiolo structure that highlights flavors of drying cherries alongside wild thyme and bay leaf that all lift from the palate with the rush acidity on the finish. Drink 2026 - 2045 Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2021 Barbaresco Basarin is fabulous. Rich, ample and seductive, the Basarin marries the charm that is so typical of this sector with the breadth and structure of Barbaresco. These two qualities are evident in tasting this after the 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo. Transparent and vibrant, the 2021 has so much to offer. Crushed rose petals, mint, orange peel, spice, tobacco and incense build into the long, sustained finish. This is even better than it was last year.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is pure and well-defined, featuring cherry, raspberry, earth, iron and wild herb flavors. Firms up with a line of dusty tannins, yet the fruit is persistent and this is balanced overall. Best from 2028 through 2046. 800 cases made, 270 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This shows balsamic, sandalwood, rose petals and a touch of red fruit on the nose. The palate is tight, with precise chewy tannins, tight fruit and a compact finish. A solid, exceptional Barolo that will need about three years to soften.James Suckling | 97 JSShowing the fantastic aromatics this site is known for, you’ll find enticing aromas of iris, dog rose, wild berry, forest floor and menthol on Paolo Scavino’s radiant 2021 Bricco Ambrogio. This MGA always has softer tannins out of the gate than the estate’s other cru offerings and the stunning 2021 is no exception, delivering succulent flavors of ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, blood orange, mint and licorice alongside polished tannins. It’s beautifully balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is classy and polished to the core. This wine has come such a long way since its debut. Enrico Scavino really believed in this site when he purchased it a little more than 20 years ago. The 2021 is a fine testament to his vision. Lavender, sage, menthol and licorice lead into a core of dark-toned fruit in a Barolo that is deep yet also light on its feet. This is impeccably done, not to mention very tasty.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe Paolo Scavino 2021 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is usually the lightest wine in the family’s collection of single-vineyard wines. From the village of Roddi in the northernmost point of the appellation, this area has wide vineyard valleys and cool southeast exposures. The heat of the day falls away quickly thanks to steep diurnal shifts. The soils are composed of blue marl and sand, and the family farms seven hectares here, of which five hectares are Nebbiolo (the rest is Dolcetto and old-vine Barbera). A selection of the best fruit is made from old vines and put into this bottle. The wine is soft and silky with red and blue fruits and floral aromas to close.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Past vintages of this wine were called Roncaglie Masseria, but the word Masseria has been removed. The Vietti 2021 Barbaresco Roncaglie draws its fruit from inclined vineyards that produce fruit with finesse and elegance. This pretty wine opens to a note of fragrant flower or heritage rose that accompanies you over a long, silky close. In a good vintage like 2021, vintners could push skin macerations a little longer. This wine saw 25 days on the skins compared to 22 days in the 2022 vintage. Vietti recently purchased land in Rabajà, a site that produces profound wines, and this plot in Roncaglie has a greater presence of sand in its soils, creating more floral and delicate expressions instead. This matures in large oak casks for 24 months, and production is 6,066 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Barbaresco Roncaglie is a powerful, tightly wound wine. Blood orange, mint, cinnamon and white pepper open, but only with great reluctance. Brisk acids and pulsating tannins need time to soften. There’s fabulous density lurking beneath. This is a gorgeous wine in the making.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Fruit for this wine comes from a three-hectare parcel in Serralunga d’Alba near the village, with south and southwestern exposures in a small amphitheater. The soils in this area are older and thus more evolved, but they always create wines of strong character. The Vietti 2021 Barolo Lazzarito is easy to identify thanks to its salty mineral finish, which is almost metallic in taste, and its bright hints of sweet rosemary and wild herb. These delicate high notes form pretty framing to a dark core of elegant fruit. The estate counts five vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, but Lazzarito is the only MGA bottling. Production is a bit larger here, with 10,363 bottles made this vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA graceful and enticing wine with complex, assertive cinnamon, melon, watermelon, earth, strawberries and peonies on the nose. This is a wine that breathes, with a full body, great fruit concentration, restrained blood orange flavors, lavish, elegant tannins and long, lifted acidity. Slightly stern in the finish, as expected from a young Barolo. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Lazzarito is a potent, deep wine. Not surprisingly, it is quite closed in the very early going. Even so, all the natural power and intensity of Serralunga is very much on display. It is the most backward and forbiddingly tannic of these Barolos today. Then again, that is Serralunga. Hints of gravel, incense and charcoal peek out on the finish.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2021 Barolo Cannubi is another stellar Barolo in this range from Claudio Fenocchio. Aromatic and lifted, the 2021 is classic Cannubi. Bright acids cut through a core of sweet red-toned fruit, mint, orange peel, cinnamon and new leather. This chiseled, nuanced Barolo is a winner.Vinous Media | 95 VMA restrained Barolo with red currants, red cherries, bright violets and a balsamic touch on the nose. More elegant than powerful, it’s medium- to full-bodied with enjoyable thick yet ripe tannins, crisp acidity and cherry stones in the finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSWhile based in Monforte d’Alba, the Fenocchio family has owned a small 0.5ha slice in Cannubi Boschis for over 50 years and it has been bottled separately since 1980. Striking scents are redolent of rhubarb compote, cherry bark, toasted hazelnut and warm, dusty earth. This is full, dense and even a bit chewy as supple fruit fuses with seemingly pliant tannins which build with dry, sandy texture, providing a firm, well defined frame. Citrussy acidity is direct and penetrating, with a thrillingly crisp finish. I wouldn’t touch it for at least a couple of years – Fenocchio’s wines age exceptionally well.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC

Dark aromas of graphite, potpourri, smoke, bergamot and dried cherries. Firm tannins on the palate, with a full body, a dusty texture, refreshing acidity and a powerful finish. Extracted, meaty, concentrated and balanced for the long haul, with an amazing minty aftertaste. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Villero is laced with spice, new leather, herbs, menthol and licorice. It exudes depth, structure and classicism, with plenty of the balsamic inflections that are such signatures of Villero. I admire the wine’s virile intensity and overall power. This is a superb showing.Vinous Media | 96 VMMy top pick from this estate in 2021, the Villero bottling is crafted from 65-year-old vines. The southwest-facing plot is characterised by calcareous clay rich in iron, which typically gives solidly structured wines. The house’s confidently extracted style accentuates this but is so well honed that the wine remains in brilliant balance. It is as expressive as it is textured: entrancing aromas convey smoke, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and a burst of violet. While tight and vertical to begin with, a mouthful of stoniness makes way for a richness of dark fruit through the mid-palate, all hemmed in by sophisticated, grainy tannins while sappy acidity lends a cleansing quality.Decanter Magazine | 96 DEC

The G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Coste di Rose (a certified organic wine) is especially fragrant and floral in this vintage. It could be the power of suggestion given the wine’s name ("slope of roses"), but you absolutely get hints of heritage rose or rose hip in this beautiful Nebbiolo. The 2021 vintage hits the ball out of the park. There are characteristic hints of tar and something that reminds me of oil paints or linseed oil. I love the clarity of the mouthfeel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPWhat an intoxicating nose of flowers like violets and roses and hints of cedar and blueberries. The palate is compact, with delineated fruit and superfine, elegant tannins. Succulent, but with a lovely, polished, underlying structure. Already a joy to drink, but will surely improve substantially with a couple of years of bottle age.James Suckling | 96 JSLoaded with finesse, the 2021 Coste di Rose has classic Barolo aromas of wild red berry, rose petal, camphor and spice. It’s smooth and delicious, doling out wild raspberry, strawberry compote, star anise and black tea before a minty finish. Polished tannins and fresh acidity keep it impeccably balanced. While already tempting, the best is yet to come. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2021 Barolo Coste di Rose is soft and quite supple, qualities that make it easy to taste, even in the early going. Crushed flowers, dried cherry, mint, rose petal are nicely lifted in this understated, quiet Barolo. This comes across as quite open for a young Barolo.Vinous Media | 91 VM

A rich purple in color, the 2021 Barbera D’Alba Pre-Phylloxera comes from 130-year-old vines from a single cask. It is expansive aromatically, with a perfume that offers more spice in its notes of black pepper, blackcurrant liqueur, and lavender, giving it an almost Syrah-like character. A very special wine, it fills the palate with plummy fruit and cleans up with dark minerals. Full-bodied without being weighted, this is a wine with more aging potential, although it is outstanding now. Drink 2023-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom one of the oldest vineyards in Italy, and one of the very few in all of Europe that survived Phylloxera, the remarkable Cogno 2021 Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera offers a rare glimpse of what wines made on their original rootstock can offer. Hailing from a small plot of vines well over one hundred years old, it has balsamic aromas of camphor and new leather that mingle with ripe dark-skinned fruit, violet and tobacco. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the savory palate delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange, white pepper and licorice alongside enveloping, refined tannins. Thanks to vines planted 520m above sea level, it also boasts vibrant acidity and energy. What a fantastic wine. Drink or hold through 2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOElvio Cogno produce just 1,800 bottles annually of this Barbera d’Alba, made from 0.25ha of 140-year-old vines in Berri near La Morra, on chalky, sandy soils. Like the ‘standard’ Barbera d’Alba, it’s vinified in stainless steel and aged in Slavonian oak casks for 12 months, yet here the result is more complex and more concentrated: pure hedgerow berry and violet scents adorn a palate full of sweet, ripe black cherry, with notes of cream, coffee and tar in the background. The finish is long and freshly balsamic, carrying more of that gorgeous violet-infused fruit.Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2021 Barbera d’Asti La Crena is exceptional. Bright, red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and rose petal are all beautifully delineated. In recent times Vietti has focused more on freshness in their Barberas, and that is especially evident in La Crena—a wine that used to be very dark and heavy but is far from that today. Clean, mineral notes extend the vibrant finish. Give this a few years to develop the full range of its aromatic breadth. What a wine!Vinous Media | 96 VMAlthough best known for its Barolos, Vietti (now part of the US Krause Group) also releases a number of different Barberas. La Crena is from a 6ha site near the commune of Agliano Terme in the Nizza area. The vineyard, purchased in 1995, was planted in 1932. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel and the wine then spends 18 months in a combination of steel, large casks and barriques before bottling. Stephen Brook: Opulent nose, with dark fruits tempered with some stylish oak. Suave and juicy, fine texture, balanced by firm acidity, which gives some spice and flair to the finish. Vincenzo Arnese: Candied aromas of Morello cherry and wild strawberry, very expressive. Bold palate with robust tannins; time will smooth it, yet quite rich and pleasant. Sara Bachiorri: Cherry and juniper berry nose. Nice concentration, with intense Maraschino flavours and a touch of liquorice stick.Decanter | 95 DEC

Gaja Chardonnay competes with top white Burgundies, and why wouldn’t it.  You can actually taste the pedigree. I had the pleasure of tasting back vintages at Hotel Pellicano in Tuscany and actually think it ages better than most white Burgundy today. A masterpiece!Dave Sokolin | 97+ DSWhat a beautiful chardonnay, with sliced cooked apples, pears, light cream and pineapple, but so well knit together with a mouthfeel that is caressing and fine textured. So enticing to drink now, but will improve with age. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS

Massetino is considered the second wine of Masseto, but I’m beginning to come to the conclusion that it’s far more than that. It represents around one-third of the production of Masseto, and judging by the quality of this 2022, next year’s release of the grand vin could be absolutely phenomenal. Massetino has always incorporated a portion Cabernet Franc since its first vintage, 2017 – 10% in 2022. A cool and dry spring led to a slightly late budbreak, followed by 75 days of drought and high temperatures. Summer storms eventually came along to restore balance, and the cool September evenings were perfect for the grapes reach full ripeness. Each parcel was vinified separately and spontaneously in concrete tanks before undergoing malolactic fermentation in barriques, 50% new. After 12 months, the final blend was made and the wine spent a further three months in concrete before bottling. Bright and stony, there’s so much energy here. Zingy and sapid, it combines fresh Mediterranean herbs and poised fruit, with more verticality than Masseto 2021 and just as much concentration. Incredible precision and beautiful freshness, especially considering the vintage.Decanter | 97 DECThis is refined and fresh with hints of sandalwood to the beautiful blue fruits. It’s medium-bodied with creamy and polished tannins that frame the blue fruit and hints of crushed stone. Succulent and juicy with a crunchy personality. You want a sip right away. Second wine of the highest quality from Masseto. So drinkable and wonderful. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThis is opulent, with a lush texture enveloping black cherry, blackberry and plum flavors. Flashes of tar, iron and wild herbs add detail as this red builds to the long finish. Balanced and fresh, with sweet, lingering oak spice notes. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2040. 160 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

As you pour this pale pink treasure, delightful aromas of fresh citrus and wild berries dance before you, inviting you to indulge in its tantalizing embrace. Each sip reveals an elegant and balanced flavor, seamlessly blending the fruit-forward characteristics of Sangiovese with the silky tannins of Pinot Nero. With the most pleasant acidity and subtle minerality, every moment is a delightful experience with Colle É Rosé.Colle Bereto | 95 SP