Wine Varietals

wines

This wine stood out at a recent vertical that stretched back to 1964. The 2014 vintage is an unqualified success here, with voluptuously ripe red and blackberry fruit, nuances of smoke and spice. The texture is silky and dense but perfectly balanced by a lovely freshness that carries the fruit to an impressively long finish. It is assembled from the three Rousseau parcels that total 1.42ha. Destemmed and fermented slowly on native yeasts before ageing in new casks.Decanter Magazine | 99 DECBy the time I arrived at the Clos de Bèze and Chambertin here, I was emotionally spent from the symphony of 2014 brilliance that had preceded them. However, both these wines are so profound that there is no doubt that they are the two red wines of the vintage this year! The 2014 Clos de Bèze soars from the glass in a brilliantly expressive nose of red and black plums, red and black cherries, gorgeous minerality, raw cocoa, gamebirds, violets and cedary new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and sappy at the core, with magical soil inflection, laser-like focus, enormous nascent complexity and a very, very long, tangy and fine-grained finish of enormous energy and seamless balance. Stunning juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2090)John Gilman | 99+ JGA towering well of cherry, raspberry, wild herb and mineral flavors are the hallmarks of this red, which possesses terrific energy and concentration on a slim frame. The fruit-, mineral- and spice-filled finish goes on and on, with an aerial component that drives the complex aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2045. 61 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSA brilliantly discreet spicy nose consists of sandalwood, essence of black cherry liqueur, violets and a hint of the sauvage. There is seriously good size, weight and power to the imposingly scaled flavors that display almost painful intensity on the driving, explosively long and very firmly structured finish where a pleasing bead of minerality appears which helps to add lift to the finish. This is powerful and presently quite compact yet my sense is that despite being very tightly wound today, it should progressively unfold such that in 7 to 8 years, it may be sufficiently civilized to enjoy if you don’t wish to wait for its full maturity.Burghound | 97 BHSaturated, bright dark red. Knockout soil-inflected aromas of black raspberry, boysenberry, mocha and gibiers, with the wine’s 100% new oak element nicely integrated. Boasts outstanding sucrosité for the vintage but strong saline minerality and firm acidity perfectly counterpoint the wine’s sweetness. This very large-scaled, densely packed wine spreads out horizontally on the inexorable rising finish, saturating the palate with a fine dusting of tannins and shimmering minerality. This stunning Clos de Bèze has all the elements for greatness.Vinous Media | 96+ VM

Intense red-fruits nose, quite oaky. Rich, velvety and lavish with fine-grained tannins. Very concentrated, spicy and peppery, but not extracted or heavy. Good length.Decanter Magazine | 92 DECThis is markedly reduced at present so I would strongly suggest decanting it if you are tempted to open a bottle young. Otherwise the supple, round and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors possess a sleek muscularity and solid intensity, all wrapped in a lingering finish that presently displays a hint of an edge that may or may not ever round off. As such my rating is a compromise as I suspect that this will develop even better complexity with age and thus even if the balance isn’t perfect, the ’14 Clos des Epeneaux should still make for a lovely wine.Burghound | 91 BHTasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux from Comte Armand has quite a nuanced nose with dusky red berry fruit, autumn leaves and a touch of stewed black tea. I like the cohesion and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, nicely balanced and supple in the mouth. There is something easy-drinking and approachable about this Pommard: well crafted and with satisfying tension. While not the greatest in recent vintages, this is still a pleasurable Pommard that overcame the hail that destroyed 90% of the vineyard that year. Tasted September 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPStill a bright red centre though turning a little at the edges. Fresh bright red fruit on the nose. The acidity keeps it bright at the back but this does not have the natural balance of 2017. The component parts should come together in another three to five years. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Fairly deep red. Intense raspberry nose, pure and lifted, supported by elegant oak. Rich and juicy, full of upfront fruit backed by fine-grained tannins. There’s grip on the finish that bodes well for the future, yet no excessive extraction, and it’s balanced and long.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECAn overtly spicy and floral nose combines notes of various red berries with those of earth and soft wood. In contrast to the laser beam definition of a number of the prior wines here the palate feel is lush and round though there is still reasonably good detail on the powerful and intense finish where a touch of austerity serves to buffer the natural sweetness. Note that this is quite firmly structured and once again I would strongly advise against buying this unless you have the patience to store it for at least a decade.Burghound | 95 BHBright medium red. Pungent lift to the aromas of pomegranate, cranberry and flowers. Fine-grained but tightly wound, even a bit imploded today, conveying a powerful impression of energy and lift. Not an especially fleshy wine but wonderfully precise and complete, with an extremely long finish that shows more saline minerality than primary red fruits. This youthfully taut wine is going to require extended aging.Vinous Media | 94+ VMTasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a very perfumed bouquet with incense and rose petal scents filtering through the black plum and cranberry fruit. The oak here is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, touches of black olive and Japanese seaweed, leading to a structured finish with good weight, albeit one that needs time. This is a classy close-up de Bèze from Bruno Clair. Tasted September 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPMedium deep colour, a little bit sombre both in tint and on the nose. Perhaps some evolution. Or a trace of something not quite clean. Either way the fruit needs to be fresher. The concentration is there though. Modest score today but perhaps not the best sample? Others much preferred this. Tasted Sep 2017.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

Laurent Ponsot makes one of the most beautiful examples of this very, very underrated Gevrey grand cru and the 2014 Chapelle looks likely to be one of his finest vintages ever from this terroir. The stunning nose delivers a sappy constellation of red and black cherries, raw cocoa, a touch of meatiness, mustard seed, dark soil tones and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and already quite velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, great soil inflection, suave, ripe tannins and stunning backend energy on the focused and very, very pure long finish. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGThe 2014 Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru behaved like the Griotte-Chambertin in that it needed a prerequisite two or three minutes to fire up its engines. When it did, it sprung a gorgeous floral bouquet with red roses, kirsch and blood orange, all struck through with wonderful mineralité and tension. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin. It resorts back to its broody nature. There is appreciable density here, quite tangy and spicy in the mouth with layers of red berry fruit on the very saline finish. It will require 4-5 years in bottle, but the class is here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPA super elegant nose is composed of an ultra-pure essence of red berries, violet, plum, spice and discreet floral nuances. There is excellent volume and serious punch to the delicious and tension-filled middle weight plus flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel on the lightly mineral-inflected finish. This is a beautifully complex and seamlessly well-balanced wine that should drink well young and old.Burghound | 92-95 BH