Wine Varietals

wines

Bottled yesterday. Pale colour, elegant and stylish, then keeps going, this isa Folatières of elegance more than weight, with a classy and nuanced white fruit. Allow for this to develop more body as it grows up in bottle. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThere is a vague whiff of the exotic present on the elegant nose that offers up essence of pear, passion fruit and discreet floral wisps. The middleweight flavors are finer though not as concentrated while displaying very good length on the, stone and bitter lemon-inflected bone-dry finale.Burghound | 91 BH

Grandfather Fernand Coffinet, who planted the almond tree on the edge of this plot, died at the start of the year, so this wine is something of a homage to him. Clear bright pale colour. The nose shows the muscle in a harmonious way. Almost lean at the front then with a growing flesh behind. Huge potential here, less charming than Dent de Chien but a fabulous finish as well, stretching out even further than does the Dent de Chien. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JM

Pale clear lemon. This is one of the more crystalline Maltroies, from vines below the house. Then fleshier on the palate with good white fruit concentration. The wine maintains a fine balance throughout between the flesh and the more linear thread. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

Aromas of green apple, white flowers, orange oil and buttery pastry preface the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, a medium to full-bodied, taut and racy wine with a satiny attack and all this site’s signature energy and cut.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPLight soil which gives high acid wines. Pale lemon colour. A stricter white fruit up at this end of the village, but no less intense. Excellent tension, you can almost taste the mother rock. A clean and crystalline finish. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JMHere the wood treatment is less subtle though by no means invasive on the smoky and floral-suffused aromas of mostly white fleshed fruit and citrus rind. The rich and generously proportioned yet quite punchy middle weight flavors also possess a seductive texture thanks to the sappy dry extract that serves to buffer the moderately firm and bright acidity supporting the solidly lengthy finish. This is not as dense as the Fairendes but it’s finer with fine complexity as well. Worth checking out.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets has also turned out very nicely, revealing aromas of apple blossom, pear and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate that’s bright and saline.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPPale colour with green reflexes. There is clay in the soil here, just under Enseignères. Very intense, liquorice notes over and above concentrated fresh apple, plenty of body, good acidity, Impressive length. I like this! Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Racked to tank. A glowing pale primrose. Not very much reduction. Good weight, a light lemon acidity behind a fine depth of concentrated fruit. With time I think more personality will emerge. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Raveneau mature all its Petit Chablis in 400 and 500-hectolitre barrels. Plenty of interest here, with density of ripe stone fruit and very linear acidity. Undoubtedly a very high class Petit Chablis which focuses on precision and elegance.Decanter | 93 DEC

Cool, ripe and pretty aromas include those of green apple, wet stone, petrol and a hint of soil tones. The vibrant medium weight flavors are, somewhat surprisingly, finer than those of the Caillerets if not as rich while displaying fine length on the compact, lemony and lightly mineral-infused finale. This is lovely and understated and a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping.Burghound | 91 BH

Lovely nose of candied citrus with just a touch of butterscotch. Quite rich on the medium- to full-bodied palate, but very gentle and delicate. Lovely harmony of fine tannins, chalky minerality and ripe acidity that is already extremely satisfying in the long, silky finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe dense texture in this balanced and juicy white embraces ripe peach, spiced pear, butterscotch and smoke flavors. This is solidly structured, with light tannins lending a tactile feel on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2032. 180 cases made, 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThere is a vague hint of exotic character to the aromas of white and yellow peach, passion fruit, spice and wet stone. Here too there is excellent volume to the beguilingly rich flavors that, somewhat curiously, display a touch of rusticity on the otherwise markedly zest-inflected finale. This could use better depth so a few years of cellaring should help.Burghound | 90 BH

Raveneau mature all its Petit Chablis in 400 and 500-hectolitre barrels. Plenty of interest here, with density of ripe stone fruit and very linear acidity. Undoubtedly a very high class Petit Chablis which focuses on precision and elegance.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2022 Petit Chablis has a pretty bouquet with lime and light Golden Delicious scents. The palate is well balanced with a citric entry, modest weight, a little chalky in texture towards the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Very cool and and focused, this mouthwatering Saint Romain has an extreme chalky minerality. Only medium-bodied, but really concentrated. Super-fresh and focused finish with so much fresh herb complexity (think sage and thyme). Very long and polished finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2022 Saint-Romain Sous Le Velle is comparatively more backward on the nose, a little chalky in style with light Golden Delicious and orange pith scents. There is fine delineation with neatly integrated oak. The palate is well-balanced, with a tang of orange zest on the entry. This has a silver beard of acidity, lending real tension and matching the impressive depth towards the vibrant finish. Sous Le Velle is often one of the go-to vineyards in Saint-Romain, and this proves exactly why.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPalish lemon and lime. A fine and classy bouquet, floral but still with the racy freshness of St-Romain. Fresh apples on the palate, with an intensity that will demand a little bottle age. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Retasted nearly a year after bottling, the 2022 is more settled and accomplished. The plum and black cherry fruit aromas are still primary, but the texture is perhaps more expressive, with a creamy, silky, approachable nature that echoes on the palate. Tasted side-by-side with the 2023 vintage, this will be ready to drink sooner; it should be drinking well in another three or four years and will last a further 20 beyond that.Decanter Magazine | 95 DEC

Always one of the more quintessentially Chablisien wines in the range, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys offers up notes of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure palate that’s suave but incisive, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWith its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECThe 2022 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from north/northwest-facing vines. This complex and detailed bouquet of yellow fruit, lemon verbena and lemon thyme is quite minerally and focused. The well-balanced palate has a fine acidic spine, more sapidity than the Vaillons and a persistent and detailed finish as it fans out. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThere is a certain coolness to the otherwise ripe aromas of apple, pear, sea breeze and quinine. The succulent and unusually rich middleweight flavors are also nicely refined while flashing a bead of minerality on the youthfully austere, balanced and lilting finale that could use better depth. This citrusy effort is really quite good and one that should benefit markedly from a few years of keeping.Burghound | 91 BHJust assembled so cloudy, as all the lees remain in suspension. The bouquet is less fine but shows nonetheless a wealth of pure white fruit which is attractive. Lots of marl with a mix of portlandian and kimmeridgian soils, the former adding the body, the latter leaving the lick of salinity. Good length. Drink from 2026-2034. Tasted Jun 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Ax - B comes from the non-Première Cru classified part of Aux Bouthières and pressed at very low pressure, and aged for 15 months in used barrel. This is initially very understated, demands more coaxing from the glass than the Vieilles Vignes. But with time, it offers more mineralité and terroir expression, fine delineation with subtle struck flinty aromas manifesting with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a taut line of acidity, certainly spicier and more peppery than the Vieilles Vignes with a soft landing on the finish. Great complexity here as I found in barrel last year - recommended.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Clos des Angles is seldom an imposing wine from d’Angerville, but it is always charming. In 2022, there is a ripe, plummy fruit with a richness that has almost an undertone of dark chocolate on the palate and a hint of earth and Havana cigar. The texture is supple and approachable even now, and there is an irresistible sweetness to the fruit on the palate that continues straight through the lingering finish. The grapes are from just over a hectare downslope from Fremiets, near the border with Pommard, yet this is very ’Volnay’ in its accessible style.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles unfurls in the glass with aromas of blackberries and cherries mingled with rose petals, potpourri and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, pure and charming, with an enveloping attack and a bright mineral spine, it will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA fresh, bright and airy mix is comprised by notes of red and blue pinot fruit, plum, spice and a floral wisp. There is excellent detail to the even finer middleweight flavors that also flash evident minerality on the sappy, youthfully austere and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is pretty much textbook Clos des Angles and one that should age accordingly.Burghound | 91-94 BHA fine bright mid crimson purple. The nose has a little more immediate fruit than the 1er Cru blend. Concentrated raspberries, though the palate adds a slight strawberry note as well. This is supple, with energy to the fruit, but not too much structure behind. One of the earlier wines to drink among the d’Angerville 2022s. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Volnay Clos des Angles 1er Cru has a ripe and generous nose compared to the generic Premier Cru with ebullient red cherries, white-tipped strawberry and a light sous-bois note. The palate is medium-bodied and fuller than the aforementioned Premier Cru, with fine tannins and still that deft, peppery finish. The 2022 is not a complex Volnay, but it will drink well for around 15 years.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Although the vines for this Fremiets are very close to those for the Clos des Angles bottling, the style is very different – it is much more mineral, almost salty, with bright black fruit, notes of violets and spice, and a texture with abundant tannic grip and an almost chewy feel. The domaine farms nearly 1.6 hectares on the steeper slopes with shallow soils. Although it is not as reserved as the Clos des Ducs, this would benefit from five years of age before opening. (Drink between 2025 - 2050)Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has more depth and fruit concentration compared to the Clos des Angles. The nose displays a mélange of red and black fruit, pressed flowers and a touch of loam aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, just a slight lactic note on the entry, segueing into a more marine-tinged latter half. A pinch of black pepper appears toward the finish. Give this two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of kirsch, black raspberry, anise and plenty of spice nuances are trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The suave, palate coating and solidly concentrated flavors possess a richer and more generous mouthfeel where equally fine-grained tannins shape the less mineral-driven but slightly longer finish. In the context of what is typical, this is a relatively powerful Frémiets that is very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHOffering up aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices and petals, the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet is medium to full-bodied, pure and lively, with refined, powdery tannins and a fine-boned, elegant profile.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPMid crimson purple. The vineyard is just above Clos des Angles, and bears some similarity on the nose. However, the fruit is a little deeper, and darker on the palate, good acidity here, just a little more structure all round. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Even in a hot year such as 2022, it struck me as odd that the Taillepieds would be more open than many other wines in the d’Angerville cellar. Yet, there was a strikingly lush blackberry fruit character with generous earthy nuance and a hint of violets that was delightful. The sweet fruit character carried through on the palate, with a plump yet still tannic and substantial texture. Given this profile, it will be ready to drink three to five years after the vintage, yet it should age well.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2022 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet, as I wrote before, just "pure Pinoté." It shows hints of blood orange that I did not notice from barrel or have since developed. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins that belie the almost Pommard-like backbone of this Volnay. Sapid and quite direct on the finish, this should age with style. Excellent.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds is terrific, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and plums mingled with notions of rose petals, sweet soil tones and spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly muscular, with a sweet core of fruit and youthfully assertive tannins, it will require but also reward patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPRipe yet attractively fresh aromas of wet stone, plum and a range of floral elements gives way to the super-sleek, intense and delicious flavors that possess a lovely texture on the youthfully austere, hugely long and linear finale that is pungently mineral in character. This is also very classy though note well that like all classic examples of Taillepieds, it’s compact, backward and is a wine that absolutely needs time.Burghound | 93-95 BH

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Les Bons Batons is the Domaine’s largest cuvée from 1.8 hectares of vines. It has a well-defined bouquet with bright red fruit. The medium-bodied palate has vivid red fruit and fine structure with gentle grip on the finish. Village quality here.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Mid purple. A very stylish perfumed Chambolle fruit of medium plus density. This is quite delicious in the mouth and seems relatively approachable. Raspberries and violets with a fine sense of precision, adequate acidity and very long. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Village has an elegant bouquet with red berries, sous-bois and pressed flowers. Typical of the Domaine. The palate is medium-bodied with raspberry, wild strawberry fruit, and supple tannins, lightly spiced with gentle grip on the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMA subtle but not invisible application of wood sets off cool aromas of plum, violet and a blend of red and dark currant. The succulent, round and plump middleweight flavors that possess good richness and solid volume, all wrapped in a dusty, serious and notably firmer finale. This is also a very fine example of the genre also worth your attention.Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru has a superb bouquet of red and black fruit, bay leaf, clove, and an underlying __mineralité that comes through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fine grip. It is complex and a little more savory in style, fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMBright mid crimson, the nose builds very well, with a mix of lighter and darker red fruit, useful oaking in the background, and a fine long sensual finish, still with plenty of structure for longer term ageing. Promising. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMA slightly riper yet airy mix features notes of red and dark pinot fruit, earth and a relatively broad array of spice and floral nuances. The delicious, delicious and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors also conclude in a dusty, sappy and solidly powerful finish that goes on and on. This could use more depth but given how this is built, that should reasonably occur in time.Burghound | 91-94 BH

Mid crimson purple, a lovely floral and still rather fine bouquet, very appetising. Sweetly succulent on the palate with a little lick of vanilla, then a fine full strawberry-raspberry fruit to finish. Showing very well for a less famous village. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Combottes 1er Cru comes from the Domaine’s youngest vines…although they are still 55 years old! It has a well-defined bouquet with dark berries and bay leaves gradually unfurling in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite "thick" tannins that give this Chambolle weight and presence, though it does not have the finesse of, say, Les Fuées. There’s a bit more sinew here.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMA more elegant, even perfumed, nose offers up an array of airy red cherry, spice and a hint of poached plum. The slightly richer medium-bodied flavors possess a caressing mid-palate that contrasts with the nicely vibrant, detailed and youthfully austere finale. I like the balance and while this should certainly repay up to a decade of keeping, it should be reasonably approachable after only 5-sh years.Burghound | 90-92 BH

This is also aromatically really fresh with its blend of dark raspberry, violet and a crushed fennel aromas. The mouthfeel of the slightly richer flavors is also caressing but here there is a subtle minerality on the lacy, balanced and youthfully austere finale that delivers slightly better persistence. Textbook Chatelots.Burghound | 90-93 BHA fine lighter purple. Just a touch of volatility and a little oak behind. Slightly more density than the village wine but not quite in place. That’s the limestone showing, says Ghislaine. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots 1er Cru is quite closed on the nose: light red fruit, a little sous-bois and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s fresh and saline, though the finish doesn’t kick on with the same gusto as other cuvées. I will be prudent for now, but it may improve in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2022 Viré-Clessé Breillonde is aged two-thirds in demi-muids and the rest in stainless steel. This has a slightly cooler and more malic bouquet than the regular Viré-Clessé. There’s some reserve here, so it will demand more coaxing. The palate is well balanced with a dab of dried honey and stem ginger on the entry. Quite a pithy Viré-Clessé complex with a very keen line of acidity that cuts through the waxy finish. There’s a hint of Muscat on the aftertaste. This is a great wine, and it should age well over the next 12-15 years.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Usually a benchmark for the appellation, Droin’s Chablis has a lot more density and concentration than the Petit Chablis. More structure and minerality here. Will be very good and a classic example.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2022 Chablis Village has a crisp, focused bouquet with hints of pressed white flowers and wet stone. The elegant palate has flecks of white peach and apricot, balanced and lovely with a charming, precise finish. This is very capable and should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Hommage à Louis has quite a malic, green apple and Anjou pear-scented nose that unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is taut and linear, with moderate depth, clamming up slightly towards the finish compared with the Grenouilles or Valmur.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM