Wine Varietals

wines

The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has an open, generous bouquet of predominantly red fruit, a little earthier than its peers but still gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. It’s a little creamy in texture because of the oak, but there is plenty of fruit here and an almost sorbet-like freshness on the finish. Blimey... this surpasses all expectations and is contender for wine of the vintage. Brilliant. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 98 VMSome intensity of colour, more crimson than purple. Lifted spicy nose, quite interesting. Indeed this Chambertin-Clos de Bèze gains in complexity very quickly. Keep sniffing this. There is some dark berry fruit, with a gorgeous sensuality, a little pepperiness, so much detail, the intensity is lightly worn, a beauty. Tasted Sep 2021.Jasper Morris | 98 JMBruno Clair owns 1ha of Clos de Bèze, which is quite a lot given how extensive Pierre Damoy’s holdings are in the grand cru. This is a comparatively subtle, gentle wine rather than a late-picked blockbuster, with attractive 40% new wood, some chalky zip and nuanced red fruit sweetness.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECAn overtly floral, more elegant and airier nose displays a striking array of spice elements on the red and dark currant, herbal tea, earth and lavender scents. Here too the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sophisticated while displaying plenty of punch on the youthfully austere finale that also flashes a touch of bitter fruit pit character. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 93 BH

The Drouhins’ holdings cover 0.5ha of this grand cru on both red and white soils. It’s another very impressive wine from a domaine that’s right at the top of its game under the new generation. Made with 25% whole bunches and 80% new wood, it’s a very complete expression of the grand cru with plenty of intensity and coiled power, some good underlying grip and a sappy, spicy, vanilla finish.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very expressive bouquet with violet-tinged blackberry and boysenberry fruit, well defined and quite precise. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, taut and linear for a Bonnes-Mares but the coiled-up energy is palpable here. There is such energy on the finish that you know that this will turn into an exceptionally fine Bonnes-Mares. Recommended.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM80% new wood 25% whole bunch vinification. Bonnes Mares has bounced back well from the 2016 frost. Rich purple, a certain sumptuous note to the wine, this has huge energy and a crystalline crunch, this has been judged just right. Good tannins to provide structure, fully ripe fruit but still with energy. Tasted Dec 2018.Jasper Morris | 92-96 JMThe fruit is dominated by reductive notes and there is a trace of the funk on the palate where there is otherwise good density and volume to the sappy mocha-infused if somewhat awkward finish. Normally when I find reduction on the palate it’s never a good sign (and I rarely rate such wines) but in this case my sense is that a thorough aeration will be sufficient to dissipate it. Still, I’m adding a question mark to my projected range as a cautionary sign.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Deeper ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir De Villiers Vineyard reveals more black raspberry, sassafras, tea, and spicy notes. It’s medium-bodied, with a juicy, elegant style and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDA juicy and powerful red with blackberries, dried strawberries, walnuts and spice undertone. Full-bodied and chewy with layers of tannins and a flavorful finish. Hints of bark and spice. Needs time to soften, but impressive. Drink after 2025, but already beautiful.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2017 Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard is fabulous. Rich, exotic and bold, the 2017 offers striking immediacy. Inky dark fruit, spice, lavender and menthol open up first, followed by a range of more savory, mineral notes that are typical of Mt. Harlan. The interplay of fruit intensity and structure makes for a compelling Pinot.Vinous Media | 94 VMPale to medium ruby-purple, the 2017 Pinot Noir deVilliers Vineyard, aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, gives up broody cherry coulis, underbrush, crushed stone, dried redcurrants and cranberries aromas with notions of blood orange, tea leaves and cured meats. Medium-bodied, intense and layered, it’s well framed and juicy with a long and pleasantly restrained finish. 1,382 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDe Villiers is an east-facing site more or less in the middle of Calera’s Mt. Harlan vineyards, planted in 1997. In 2017, it produced a wine considerably more savory than most of its counterparts, with a wild berry scent and tealike accents. The fruit flavors are light and attenuated, more about perfume than flavor, marked by the tangy, mildly mineral grip of the mountain’s chalk soils.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SWell-sculpted, with alluring sandalwood and allspice notes to the dried cherry and plum tart flavors. Savory richness emerges midpalate, leading to an extended finish that offers brioche and cream details. Drink now through 2024. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSRoasted boysenberry, crushed stone, baked earth and a slight plum-skin tang show on the nose of this bottling from vines planted in 1996. There’s a warm-weather sense on the palate, where cooked berry flavors dominate, yet the acid and rocky tension keep it complex and intenseWine Enthusiast | 92 WE