Wine Varietals

wines

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC

Blueberry, blackberry and chocolate aromas yet subtle and perfumed. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and lots of structure. Shows depth and has a purpose. Needs time to come together soon. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe Caparzo 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa offers a balanced presentation of candied cherry, dried fruit and toasted spice. This is a lovely and joyous wine with velvety soft tannins and good inner energy that adds dimension and depth to the mouthfeel. Vigna La Casa is a contemporary expression from Montalcino with extra fruit concentration and structure, and the results are carefully balanced throughout. Some 14,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa hails from the Montosoli hillside, facing the town of Montalcino. It’s youthfully moody and dark in the glass, slowly evolving with violet florals, crushed wild berries and sweet spice. Silky and pliant, it sweeps across the palate with juicy textural waves of mineral-drenched red fruits as inner florals resonate and grippy tannins mount toward the close. The Vigna La Casa tapers off long, structured and classically dry, leaving a licorice twang and hints of tart orange that curl the tongue. The future is very bright, but the 2019 will require serious patience.Vinous Media | 95 VMRipe and inviting, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Vigna La Casa pours a deep ruby/red color and reveals intertwining notes of kirsch, fresh leather, dried roses, and sweet Mediterranean herbs. It’s elegant and full-bodied, with ripe tannins, a plush texture, and wonderful length that floats away gently. It’s a very attractive wine with a weightless feel and has an open window for enjoyment over the coming 10-12 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDOpening with aromas of raspberry compote, graphite, hay and botanical herb, the 2019 Caparzo La Casa is excellent. Focused and elegantly structured, the palate features pomegranate, cherry tart, licorice and mocha framed in taut, close-grained tannins. It’s balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOCaparzo’s flagship Brunello, La Casa is crafted from a 5 hectare vineyard on the hill of Montosoli. It spends a year in barriques before being transferred to larger, 30 hectolitre oak casks. In contrast with the estate bottling, La Casa is restrained and introspective in its youth. Subtle mocha and crushed allspice emerge, then eventually wild, red woodland berries. The palate is more effusive exhibiting a generous core of pure luscious raspberries imbued with vanilla and liquorice. Gravelly textured tannins remain tightly fastened demanding time to loosen. An appetising stony finish.Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2019 Brunello from La Gerla shows polish and intensity, offering aromas and flavors of ripe black cherry, blackberry, underbrush, camphor and licorice. Firm, close-grained tannins and vibrant acidity provide support and energy. It’s still brooding and needs time to fully develop. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe La Gerla 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has spicy, dried fruit with blackcurrant, pinecone, juniper berry and a hint of medicinal herb or camphor ash. The oak comes through clearly in the form of mulled spice or crushed clove. This Brunello is rather streamlined on the mid-palate, and although there is some mild chalkiness to the tannins, they are almost approachable now. Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA lovely mix of floral and herbaceous aromas lift from the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino, which displays a ruby color and offers notes of wild raspberry, herbes de Provence, wet stones, and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, it’s enticing on the palate, with crunchy fresh acidity, ripe tannins, and a long finish that closes with a quenching saline lift. This vintage offers such wonderful aromatics, and this wine is no exception, with a pure nature all throughout. Drink 2025-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is wild, opening with a zesty burst of spiced orange and cloves before settling on black cherries and ashen stone. It’s creamy and seductive in feel, with a wave of rich red fruits that easily flow across the palate, guided by juicy acidity. Tension builds through the close as saline minerals mingle with angular tannins, leaving a pleasantly bitter sensation and the mouth watering for more. While some patience will be required, I expect the 2019 to over-deliver after only a few years of cellaring.Vinous Media | 93 VMLa Gerla’s estate Brunello brings together an even proportion of fruit from holdings in the cool northeastern area of Canalicchio with lots from warmer parcels in Montalcino’s southeast. Exhibiting the estate’s signature unami style, the 2019 is appealingly unpretentious yet complex. Restrained aromas of chestnut and grilled, smoky herbs lead to a wild berry compote laced with clove. It flows easily across the palate, carrying tantalising acidity. Fine powdery tannins build up and close off the finish for now. Give this another year in bottle.Decanter | 93 DECCompact and tense young red with lots of dark fruit and violets, as well as subtly spicy and toasty undertones. Creamy and rich on the palate with balanced acidity. Persistent length with dried-herb flavors at the end. Needs more time to soften. Drink after 2029.James Suckling | 93 JS

This is so fine and refined with currant, crushed stone, lime stone and fresh mushroom. It’s medium-bodied with fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Minerally finish. Tight and racy. Drink after 2025, but already beautiful.James Suckling | 96 JSRich plum in colour, this grips right from the off, and moves slowly and carefully through the palate, revealing brambly blue and red fruits, and a lovely sense of energy and uplift. Extremely good quality, with sage and saffron edges alongside layers of fine tannins that close in towards the finish, slowing things down even more. This will age well, and is an elegant yet concentrated wine.Decanter | 94 DECComing from the home estate of Pierre Seillan, who’s behind the incredible wines of Vérité in Sonoma, the 2019 Lassègue sports a deep purple color as well as a great nose of blueberries, mulberries, tobacco, dusty earth, and flowery incense. It’s an exotic, full-bodied Saint-Emilion with beautiful balance, plenty of ripe tannins, the vibrancy and freshness of the vintage, and a great finish. It’s a beautifully complex 2019 that’s going to evolve nicely for two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-95 JDThe 2019 Lassegue is deep purple-black colored. A little closed to begin, it is soon tumbling out of the glass with notes of fresh, juicy blackberries, black cherry compote, and wild blueberries, plus suggestions of menthol, nutmeg, cracked black pepper, and aniseed, with floral touches of lavender and roses. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers fantastic freshness and bags of crunchy black fruits, framed by finely grained tannins, finishing long and with compelling energy. 6,935 cases were made this year.The Wine Independent | 93+ TWIThe 2019 Lassegue unwinds in the glass with aromas plums, wild berries, pencil shavings and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, deep and lively, with powdery tannins, bright acids and a rather understated, elegant profile for an estate that can often deliver rather dramatic wines, this will reward a little patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPThe 2019 Lassègue is packed with super-ripe dark cherry, plum, sweet spice, new leather, licorice, kirsch and a kick of sweet French oak. This is an especially ripe, succulent style, but it works well.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The Casanova di Neri 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows thick fruit fabric with stitchings of underbrush, pressed rose, bright cherry, tobacco and balanced oak spice. This wine definitely has a special groove. It offers a ripe, round texture with good acidity followed by fine, chalky tannins. This is impressive quality for 109,600 bottles produced. In fact, this is one of the best village Brunellos from Giacomo Neri and his family made so far.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of ripe cherry fruit is complemented by woodsy, mushroom, iron, spice and saline flavors in this intense red, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Though balanced, this could benefit from a few more years to really hit its sweet spot. Best from 2026 through 2042. 9,133 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSPouring a rich red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino White Label takes on layered, savory aromas of leather, tobacco leaf, dried cherries, mocha, and a light rustic quality, although it’s very well-balanced. Medium to full-bodied, it’s pure and energetic, with rich, ripe concentration and ripe tannins. It’s approachable now and is a great entry into the vintage, with accessibility high since about 100,000 bottles were produced. It’s also a great value. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JDRedcurrants and lavender followed by layers of dried herbs and spices. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate with chewy tannins. Persistent long finish with some citrusy undertones. Yet young, healthy and concentrated. Very attractive now and in the future.James Suckling | 92 JS

A ruby/red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is a bit understated. Initially ripe with aromas of baked red plum, woodsy earth, and balsamic herbs, it’s full-bodied on the palate and offers grippy tannins and an earthy profile with a clean finish. It would be well-matched to pair with a steak drizzled with olive oil. Drink 2024-2032.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDAromas of cedar, berries, orange peel and some lifted notes follow through to a full body with chewy tannins and a tangy finish. Lots of new wood. May be a little too much. But it should come around with bottle age. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 91 JS

The organic La Torre 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is elegant and tight with floral notes, iris root and a sweet note of cherry confit or crème de cassis. It has a cushiony feel, or bounce, and the wine envelopes the whole palate without pulling too strong in any one direction. Some sweetness carries to the palate. This pretty wine would benefit from a few more years of bottle age. Production is 14,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino La Torre is born of the earth, as a burst of crushed ashen stones and wild herbs give way to dried black cherries. This is surprisingly juicy and sleek, with vividly ripe red plums complicated by saline minerals and savory spice. Green olives resonate under an air of violet inner florals. The 2019 finishes long, structured and staining. A pleasantly rustic character here may not be for everyone, but I think it works pretty well.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2019 Brunello from La Torre has a shy nose that eventually offers whiffs of leather, resin, forest floor and botanical herb. The linear palate offers juicy Morello cherry, tangerine and coffee bean alongside firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 90 KO

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up from the glass with an airy, minty freshness as dusty dried flowers, strawberries and pine shavings join the fray. This is lifted and finessed with soft textures and cooling mineral tones complementing its seductively ripe red berry fruits. It maintains fabulous energy throughout. The mouth is left watering despite its classic tannin profile and lingering tart wild berry concentration. The 2019 from Le Macioche possesses a wonderful combination of power and purity. This estate has been continually raising the bar with each passing vintage.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis Brunello combines vivid cherry, strawberry and chocolate aromas and flavors with savory notes of eucalyptus, spice, mineral and tobacco. Solidly structured yet balanced, with fine-grained tannins shoring up the lengthy finish. Best from 2027 through 2043. 1,650 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSLots of dark fruits with dried lavender followed by allspice and a touch of citrus. Medium-bodied with round and chewy tannins. Healthy and muscular. Better after 2028.Decanter | 93 DECLots of dark fruits with dried lavender followed by allspice and a touch of citrus. Medium-bodied with round and chewy tannins. Healthy and muscular. Better after 2028.James Suckling | 93 JSBlue flower, menthol, new leather, forest floor and a whiff of game lead the nose on the fragrant 2019 Brunello from Le Macioche. Linear and showing an earthy elegance, the savory palate features ripe black cherry, blood orange, dried mint, licorice and cocoa before closing on a note of white truffle. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide the framework. Drink 2028–2034. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

Planted in 1996, La Lucére distinguishes itself from San Filippo’s other sites with its full eastern exposure and silty, sandstone soil. The 2019 harvest saw multiple passages from the end of September through to the first week of October. It takes its time to unravel, progressing from exotic and integrated oak spice and cedar forest to intense cherry and currants with hints of fennel, pressed flowers and dark chocolate. Glossy wood adds weight and breadth to a mouthful of stones and cherry pit. The tannins are smooth and tightly woven while fresh, steely acidity cuts vertically giving magnificent vibrancy. It lingers quite tenaciously, with juxtaposing bitter coffee and vanilla cherry.Decanter | 96 DECBlack cherry, cedar and dried flowers on the nose follow through to a medium to full body with chewy tannins and a savory finish. Lots of structure. Muscular and wholesome yet there’s a softness and beauty. Better after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino le Lucére is a darkly concentrated wine with black fruit and a very creamy side. There are aromas of coconut butter and vanilla that meet bakery aromas of croissant or pie crust. The oak renderings are significant, but I give it good cellar potential, as it fleshes out, especially because there is plenty of dark primary fruit to give it aging momentum.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPRich, round and juicy, this satiny and harmonious red sports cherry, plum, blackberry and chocolate flavors. Even the tannins are civilized and well-integrated, providing an overall charm. Expansive on the finish, with notes of mint, dusty mineral and spices. Best from 2026 through 2042. 800 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The Podere Brizio 2019 Brunello is utterly delicious. Made with organically grown grapes, it opens with aromas of new leather, violet and forest berry while the smooth, elegant palate delivers ripe black cherry, spiced blue berry, cinnamon and licorice before a wintergreen finish. Tightly woven, velvety tannins provide enveloping support. It’s already almost accessible and will offer years of pleasure. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOBlack cherry, blackberry, plum, violet and mineral flavors are the hallmarks of this pure, dense and robust red, which is squarely in the fruity camp, yet bumps up against pointed tannins on the finish. The lasting impression is both fruit and tannins, so this should work itself out in a few years. Best from 2027 through 2043. 3,000 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe organic Podere Brizio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino (in a heavy glass bottle) shows pretty aromas of crushed stone, dried raspberry, redcurrant, cherry cola and blue flower. The elegance and finer qualities of this wine are what stand out most, and you get pretty definition and sharpness along the way. The finish is lean, tonic, lifted and bright. Some 38,000 bottles were made. Great job.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDark magenta/ruby, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino has a great nose, with concentrated power and purity in its aromas of cedar, fresh black raspberries, lavender, and baking spice. Full-bodied, although it remains linear with an even spine of acidity and refined tannins, it has great mouthwatering lift and a clean, long finish. It’s an impressive offering with a wide drinking window over the next 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCrunchy and blooming red wine, displaying vibrant black cherries, redcurrants and violets, together with fascinating, savory spice notes of cloves and licorice. Medium-bodied and round on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. Chewy yet fine-grained tannins. Lively and flavorful. From organically grown grapes. This will develop nicely with age. Hold until 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a sweet burst of spice and dusty dried flowers. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and crisp wild berry fruits. It finishes with medium length while pleasantly chewy sensations and edgy tannins mingle with hints of licorice.Vinous Media | 90 VM

You’ll discover inviting aromas of ripe plum, cake spice, new leather and blue flower on the compelling 2019 Brunello from Molino di Sant’Antimo. Combing richness and finesse, the delicious palate features ripe Morello cherry, black raspberry, star anise and crushed mint set against a backbone of firm, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. What a fantastic wine. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KO

This red is all about finesse, delivering superb balance and complexity, with cherry, raspberry, earth and wild herb aromas and flavors. Succulent and charming, yet with a solid base of tannins and vivid acidity, this remains focused through the long aftertaste. Best from 2026 through 2042. 4,575 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSTobacco, truffle, violet and hints of mocha and cherry pie unfold on this beautiful Brunello. Classically crafted and elegantly structured, it delivers flavors of ripe Morello cherry, wild raspberry, baking spice and licorice alongside enveloping, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty, wafting up with a blend of violets and lavender before giving way to steeped plum lifted by mint. This is racy and sleek, with cooling acidity and mineral tones that excite the palate. Juicy acidity enlivens tart wild berry fruits. The 2019 finds its center through the finish, as fine tannins emerge and a crunchy sensation lingers. Licorice and bitter blackberry notes taper off slowly. In a word, fantastic. The balance of complexity, structure and energy places the 2019 very high in my book.Vinous Media | 95 VMA ruby/magenta color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino offers more rounded floral aromas of preserved strawberry, baby powder, cocoa, and lavender. Medium-bodied, it brings forward excellent energy on the palate, with fresh acidity, good concentration, and a sustained and mouthwatering finish that’s pure and delicious. The structure feels more noble than the nose would suggest and perhaps just needs more time to come into its own, but this is a really delicious wine that I would love to have again and again. On the second tasting, it offers a more plush and velvety texture, and its chocolate notes last on the finish. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94+ JDVery pretty floral aromas with black cherry and orange peel. Medium body, firm tannins and a polished and silky-textured finish. Drink in two or three years and beyond. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 93 JSGiacomo Bartolomei has been making the wine at his family’s property without an external consultant since 2016. He maintains an uber-pristine cellar, prepares a pied de cuve to aid spontaneous fermentations in stainless steel and has reduced time in wood to preserve freshness as the wine ages. From its deep ruby hue to its black cherry scents, the 2019 is youthful and primary. Accents of mocha, bitter orange and sage bestow complexity on the palate. Fairly robust and mouthfilling, this is buttressed by dry, grainy tannins. Could do with a bit more precision but there is potential here.Decanter | 92 DEC

Redcurrants and wild strawberries followed by intense herbal and green notes of tomato leaves and thyme. Creamy and round-textured followed by firm and structured tannins. Excellent length of finish with a hint of citrus blossom in the aftertaste. Pure and crunchy. Better after 2029.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine of medium-rich texture and lovely red and purple fruit aromas with elderberry and something much softer like Morello cherry. Those ripe and concentrated flavors give depth and volume to this wine, yet it also shows the heightened acidic freshness that Sangiovese delivers so well, and some chalky minimality. The tannins are yielding and not quite approachable, but they’re almost there. This wine sees 30 months in Slavonian oak, and 50,000 bottles will hit the market in January 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is floral and perfumed with dusty rose, lavender tones and crushed blackberries. It’s silky in texture yet lifted in feel with violet-laced wild berry fruits and vibrant acidity, maintaining a lovely energy throughout. This tapers off with medium length and gently tannic, leaving a bitter licorice tinge that makes for a pleasant punctuation.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of dark-skinned fruit, baking spice, forest floor and tobacco shape the nose on the elegantly structured 2019 Brunello from Tenuta di Sesta. Full-bodied and refined, the smooth palate offers ripe Morello cherry, baked plum, licorice and a dollop of mocha alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

Fragrant and refined, this compelling red has aromas of woodland berry, ground pepper, camphor and tilled earth. Full-bodied and structured, the youthfully tense palate features ripe red cherry, pomegranate, star anise and ground nutmeg. Tight, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity provide support and energy. It needs several more years and shows great aging potential. Drink 2029–2039. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe combination of the clay-rich soil in the lower part of Vigna Santo Stefano in the Albesani MGA seems to have enhanced the density and the refinement of this Barbaresco. Elegant and restrained with smoky woodland and coffee grounds to the fore, then an amazing wild strawberry, savoury rhubarb and olive-like umami character. The attack is firm, with chewy acidity and velvety tannins. Great mid-palate extraction shows this is intended for the long haul. It doesn’t lack tension either, and will keep going strong for decades.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2019 Barbaresco Albesani Santo Stefano is deep and beautifully resonant in the glass. Bright red fruit, crushed flowers, tobacco, incense and orange peel open first, lending quite a bit of aromatic presence. Another year or two will help the tannins soften. All this needs is a bit more focus to make the leap into the next level.Vinous Media | 92 VMA rich version, this features cherry and raspberry flavors embedded in a fleshy texture. Reveals plum, earth, leather and spice notes as this firms up on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Hickinbotham’s 2019 The Peake Cabernet Shiraz is a 56-44 blend of the two varieties, aged in around 50% new French oak. Blended from selected barrels, it ratchets up the intensity even further than the Trueman Cab or Brooks Road Shiraz, while also adding additional layers of complexity. The herbal notes of the Cab are there but toned down, the cassis and blackberry notes of the two varieties complement each other, and the vanilla and cedar shadings are beautifully integrated into the wine. Full-bodied, concentrated and richly textured, it’s expansive yet structured and long and elegant on the finish. Give it another couple of years in the cellar and drink it over the next two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPDelivers a gorgeous, generous mix of velvety dark chocolate-covered cherry, red licorice and mocha as well as hints of fresh mint, huckleberry and boysenberry at the core. This wine’s power is matched by refinement and a long, expressive finish, where spicy notes linger. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now through 2035. 445 cases made, 229 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA glossy, vanilla-and-spiced oak sentinel stands guard over this Cab-Shiraz blend from a top McLaren Vale vineyard. It’s not wholly intrusive, but it makes itself known, as do the characteristics of supple dark berry fruit and chocolate with undertones of mint and spice. The palate is equally rich and broad shouldered, with plump, concentrated fruit and spicy, powerful but well-placed tannins. An infant now, it should age gracefully and slowly. Drink 2024 until well into the 2030s.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a spice box of a wine, opening with a burst of camphor and dried flowers, giving way to crushed blackberries, sage and cloves. This is surprisingly energetic and racy in style. Vibrant acidity propels depths of dark red fruits and inner floral as salty minerals saturate. The 2019 finishes structured and long yet still lively, leaving violet inner florals and hints of currant to taper off slowly. The combination of power, depth and energy makes this impossible to ignore.Vinous Media | 95 VMTo the northwest of the town of Montalcino, Pertimali’s 12 hectares extend over a single block, surrounding the Montosoli hill. Despite a relatively cool microclimate, the limestone-rich clay and estate’s old clones yield a vigorous, muscular Brunello. Picked at the beginning of October, the intensely savoury 2019 wafts with iron, sage and bay leaf. The ripe brawny palate is packed with dry, assertive tannins backed up by sweet black cherry and spiced currants. Acidity is brisk. A rustic rather than elegant offering. Ageing is in Slavonian oak casks of 30 hectolitres.Decanter | 90 DEC

Based on 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, the Grand Vin 2020 Château Beychevelle is a stunner that does everything right, offering a monster bouquet of black and blue fruits as well as candied violets, incense, flowers, and toasty oak. A ripe, full-bodied, incredibly sexy wine in every sense, it has a great mid-palate, ripe, velvety tannins, no hard edges, and a great finish. It’s one of the more up-front, exotic wines in the vintage and should be accessible with just short-term cellaring.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JDThe wine’s structure and serious tannins are, happily, balanced by the rich generosity of the fruit flavors. Together, the two elements of this very fine wine will allow it to develop with weight and concentration.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEDeep purple-black colored, the 2020 Beychevelle offers up vibrant notes of black raspberries, fresh black cherries and cassis, plus hints of wild sage, chocolate mint, rose hip tea and fallen leaves, with an exotic hint of Indian spices. The medium to full-bodied palate offers layers of crunchy black fruits with a firm, grainy texture and just enough freshness, finishing long and perfumed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPThe 2020 Beychevelle opens with the most exotic bouquet imaginable. Wild flowers of all sorts, spice, lavender and inky dark fruit all saturate the palate. As always, Beychevelle is an overt, flamboyant wine, but all of the elements are so well out together. The 2020 is sexy, alluring and impossible to resist. Time in the glass brings out redder tonalities of fruit along with sweet floral notes that add striking inner perfume. Even as a barrel sample, I am so tempted to just drink it.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMSmoke, grilled almond on the nose, even a touch of rubber from an edge of reduction. This has depth to black chocolate and bilberry fruit, it is well balanced and seductive. Enjoyable, it’s pretty broad shouldered but it sits well within the successful run of vintages at Beychevelle. A yield of 47hl/ha. 18 months ageing. 55% first wine. Drinking Window 2029 - 2044.Decanter | 94 DECSweet-berry and tobacco character with blackberries and violets. It’s full-bodied with firm, polished tannins and a fresh finish. Very fine at the end.James Suckling | 94-95 JS

Extremely floral and beautiful with blackberry and blackcurrant aromas that follow through to a full body with a solid core of fruit and loads of dark fruit, sweet tobacco, bark and earth. Chewy, fine tannins. Perhaps the best of the trilogy years.James Suckling | 96-97 JSFrom what is one of Margaux’s leading estates, this wine is structured and initially firm. Then it reveals luscious black fruits and succulent acidity that gives the wine a fine perfumed character, dense texture and the promise of some serious aging. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Brane-Cantenac is deep, fleshy and savory. Strong Cabernet accents open first, leading to a core of inky dark fruit, lavender, spice, mint and chocolate. There is some new oak that needs to integrate, but time should take care of that. I especially admire the sense of classicism and energy here. This is a superb showing from Brane-Cantenac and the team led by Henri Lurton.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMDeep purple-hued, the 2020 Château Brane-Cantenac is another remarkable 2020 in the making. Beautiful blackberry and cassis fruits as well as notes of chocolate, lead pencil, and flower all define the nose, and it has the vintage’s pure, focused, surprisingly fresh profile while still being concentrated and textured. The balance is spot on and the tannins are polished as well, so it should have some up-front appeal, yet smart money will be on giving this at least 4-6 years of bottle age.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-96 JDViolet-edged, lovely vibrant colour. A low-yield wine that has kept an impressively fresh core, with expressive fruits and a vibrant grip through the centre of the wine. Powerful, tight tannins and the concentration becomes clearer in the glass, a ton of bilberry, sage and rosemary aromatics, with a generous helping of graphite and crushed stone. All of these wines are going to need very careful ageing - although the reasonable alcohols should help. A yield of 31hl/ha. 18 months ageing in a mix of new oak barrels and amphoras. 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère completes the blend. Tasted twice. Drinking Window 2028 - 2044.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2020 Brane-Cantenac is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carménère and 1% Petit Verdot. It weighs in with 13.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.71. Deep purple-black colored, it has a beautifully expressive nose of fresh redcurrants, blackcurrant jelly, kirsch and rose oil, plus hints of tobacco leaf, wild sage and crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly styled with a plush texture and plenty of freshness supporting the red berry and earthy flavors, finishing fragrant.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP

Fantastic depth of fruit with layers of firm, chewy tannins that are medium-grained and long in the mouth. Full and dynamic. One of the best ever.James Suckling | 96-97 JSThis grand estate that recently changed hands has produced a seriously promising wine. Bold black fruits and dark tannins are just beginning a fine interplay, reinforced by the wine’s acidity. Expect a good future for the wine. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Cantenac Brown is an outrageously beautiful wine. Ample, vertical and soaring in its intensity, the 2020 is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. Punchy red berry fruit, lavender, spice, mint and rose petal abound. What I like most about the 2020 is the way it balances fruit intensity with vibrancy and energy. Cantenac Brown is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage.Vinous Media | 94-97 VMSilky with touches of caramel, chocolate, blueberry, raspberries and boysenberries - all those autumnal fruits that have texture and acidity to them, with the signature gloss of Cantenac Brown. Clear peony, violet notes also. A linen texture that slows the passage of the wine through the mouth. Retasted at UGC and this is again good quality, the austerity on the tannins is marked right now, but there is plenty of life ahead here. New owner Tristan le Lous as of 2019, and this wine also includes the new 9.5ha vines of vines from Château Charmant and la Galiane (bought in July 2020). The fermentation was conducted at temperatures 4-5 °C lower than average to preserve fruit. 60% new oak. Harvest 10 to 30 September. Drinking Window 2028 - 2044.Decanter | 93 DECI loved the 2020 Château Cantenac Brown, a pure, medium to full-bodied, beautifully textured Margaux that shines in the vintage. Offering up lots of classy cassis fruits as well as spicy oak, violets, and flowers, it has plenty of mid-palate depth, outstanding balance, and a great finish. There’s no trace of the often firm chewy tannins found in this appellation in 2020, and it’s unquestionably a beautiful wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 92-94 JDDeep garnet-purple in color, the 2020 Cantenac Brown slides effortlessly out of the glass with pronounced notes of licorice, tar, tapenade and fertile loam over a core of warm cassis and plum preserves, with a waft of charcuterie. The medium-bodied palate is refreshing, bursting with crunchy black fruit and herbal sparks with a well-managed, grainy texture, finishing long and earthy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93+ RP

One of the biggest successes on the upper plateau is the 2020 Château Clos Fourtet, and it does everything right in the vintage. A magical, perfumed bouquet of red plums, black cherries, white truffle, and white flowers just screams Saint-Emilion, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, flawless overall balance, a dense mid-palate, and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality on the palate. Building incrementally with time in the glass, this is thrilling stuff that should offer some up-front appeal in its youth yet benefit from 7-8 years in the cellar and keep for 30 years or more. Bravo! The blend is 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc that’s still resting in 50% new French oak.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThe 2020 Clos Fourtet is a blend of 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, harvested from 15th to 30th September and weighing in with an alcohol of 14.5% and a pH of 3.6. It is being aged for 14-18 months in 50% new oak barrels, 48% second-fill barrels and 2% amphora. Deep garnet-purple in color, it comes bounding out of the glass with ripe, expressive notes of crushed black plums, juicy black berries and black cherry preserves, followed by hints of ground cloves, cinnamon stick, camphor and cedar chest. The medium to full-bodied palate is jam-packed with bright, vivacious black fruits, framed by velvety tannins and bags of freshness, finishing with great length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPA wine of stature and breeding, the 2020 Clos Fourtet is absolutely breathtaking from barrel. A rush of lavender, graphite, spice, licorice and espresso hits the senses. Vibrant and powerful, yet also remarkably light on its feet, the 2020 has so much of offer. All the elements are so crisp, so beautifully defined. The 2020 is all class. It is one of the most promising wines of this young vintage and a fabulous effort from the Cuvelier family. Don’t miss it.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMPlush damson and blueberry on the nose, there is juice and a tightrope walking concentration of fruits. An excellent Clos Fourtet, with a juicy edge where the magic of limestone in dry summers is very much showing through. A yield of 40 hl/ha. 14 to 18 months ageing in underground limestone cellars. 2021 sees 20 years of the Cuvelier family at Clos Fourtet and this is an excellent wine to showcase what a brilliant job they have done here. Score could go higher after barrel ageing. Drinking Window 2028 - 2044.Decanter | 96 DECThis is really something with so much tension and focus and a persistent, long finish that lasts for minutes. It’s full-bodied, yet tight and so long. Such polish and finesse. Elegance with power.James Suckling | 95-96 JSThe renaissance of Clos Fourtet continues, even in this difficult vintage. This wine has great fruit, layering black currant with berries. It’s a precise wine, pointing up the structured tannins while leaving room for a juicy, fruity aftertaste. Drink from 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Extremely floral and fruity with currants and blackberries. It’s full-bodied and very layered with delicious, dense character. Full-bodied with dusty, layered tannins. Rich, but not heavy. Long and chewy on the finish. 55% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 3% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot and 1% malbec.James Suckling | 97-98 JSThis is a sinewy, powerful and forward-moving wine with a sense of momentum. Moreish, with the elegance and plump damson fruits that Issan delivers so well, but more muscular than some years with the impact of both Petit Verdot and Malbec that are in the blend for the first time in this vintage. These add layers of spice and the overall architecture is clear. Peony and violet notes add a kick upwards on the finish, this has a delicacy even though it is intense. Less Cabernet in the blend in 2020 than in 2019, as is often the case in the Médoc due to low yields. This new blend in Issan will be seen going forward after the addition of plots from the purchase of Château Pontac-Lynch. Drinking Window 2028 - 2045.Decanter | 96 DECThe walled vineyard of Issan has produced a beautifully elegant wine. It has structure while bringing out bright berry fruits and already integrated acidity. The wine has all the elements for long-term aging.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2020 D’Issan is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec, aging in French oak barriques, 50% new. It has an alcohol of 13.29%, a pH of 3.71 and an IPT (tannin index) of 73. Displaying an opaque purple-black color, it has vibrant notes of Bing cherries, boysenberries, ripe redcurrants and juicy black plums, plus hints of pencil shavings, wild thyme, lavender and forest floor. The medium-bodied palate has impressive energy with crunchy red and black fruits and compelling tension, framed by fine-grained tannins, finishing long and mineral laced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2020 d’Issan is the first vintage that incorporates Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec to complement the traditional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the blend. Pretty floral and savory accents complement a core of ripe red/purplish berry fruit. Medium in body and vibrant, with superb persistence, Issan is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. The purity of the flavors is striking. Harvest took place over three weeks between September 17 through October 2, which is only about a week earlier than normal, so not that displaced relative to what was the norm in much of Bordeaux. Tasted three times.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMMore backward, dense, and concentrated, the Grand Vin 2020 Château D’Issan offers darker currant and cassis notes as well as gorgeous floral, sandalwood, graphite, and chocolate nuances. Medium to full-bodied, voluptuous, and layered on the palate, with sweet yet building tannins, this is a gorgeous Margaux that brings ample depth and richness while still showing the classic elegance of the appellation. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec, raised in 50% new oak, and it’s a selection of only 45% of the total production. It’s going to have some up-front appeal and a broad, lengthy drink window over the following 2-3 decades. Tasted twice.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-95+ JD

(Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, Red) Restrained and sombre at first, but carefully constructed, with a rippling muscular texture, full of firm tannins with bright acidities underneath. Like the precision and the slightly austere cool blue fruits, pencil lead and liquorice root. Elegant, precise, feels very Pauillac in its density combined with fine tannins that have life and lift on the finish. Harvest September 9 to 29. First vintage in the new cellar. (Drink between 2028-2042)Decanter | 95 DECThis is so refined with beautiful currant, berry and some subtle chocolate and coffee. It’s full and very subtle with fine tannins that have a long finish. Such purity and finesse with structure. Fresh and savory. 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot.James Suckling | 95-96 JSLots of tobacco, damp earth, chocolate, and lead pencil notes define the 2020 Château Duhart-Milon. Medium to full-bodied, it has a beautifully balanced mouthfeel, loads of blue and black fruits, and ripe yet certainly present tannins. Its relatively plush, rounded style is not too dissimilar from the 2016, but it offers ample structure as well. The blend is 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, and it hit 13% natural alcohol. This is another classic, concentrated, impressive wine from this team.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-96 JDFine tannins are in suspension from this beautifully structured wine. Its rich fruit is balanced by the freshness of the vintage, the wine has the depth of flavor without too great a concentration. It is fruity certainly, but so structured that it will age well.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 Duhart-Milon comes skipping out of the glass with vibrant notes of crushed black cherries, black raspberries and plum preserves, plus an exotic spice undercurrent of cumin seed, star anise and cardamom, with an earthy touch of black truffles. The medium-bodied palate delivers mouth-coating, juicy black fruits with a plush texture and just enough freshness, finishing long and spicy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | (91-93)+ RPThe 2020 Duhart-Milon is soft, pliant and wonderfully seductive. Strong Cabernet aromatics open first, lending quite a bit of savory nuance. Bright red/purplish berry fruit, spice, cedar and earthy notes show the vibrant side of this Pauillac’s personality. The 2020 deftly balances ripeness with energy. It’s a terrific example of the year. Yields were 36.5 hectoliters per hectare, more or less in line with the recent past. The 2020 is the first vintage made in the new cellar.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Intense graphite and violet character with lead pencil. It’s full and firm with chewy and balanced tannins. Iodine coming through. So intense. Super second wine. Like the grand vin of Lynch from the 1980s. 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot.James Suckling | 95-96 JSOffering classic Pauillac notes of blackcurrants, scorched earth, violets, and lead pencil, the 2020 Echo De Lynch Bages is a big, rich, nicely concentrated wine that shows the fresh yet powerful style of the vintage beautifully. It’s a terrific second wine, yet one that’s going to benefit from a few years of bottle age. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot.Jeb Dunnuck | 92-94 JDA serious Echo, one that has walls and depths to its tannins, and will take time to open up. Black pepper, cassis, cassis bud and liquorice, I would give this four or five years before opening. 3.8pH. Yields were down to around 22hl/ha. First harvest in the new gravity-fed cellars. (Drink between 2025-2040)Decanter | 92 DECThe 2020 Echo de Lynch Bages is fabulous. A compelling second wine, Echo offers all the aromatic sensuality, red fruit and silkiness of the Grand Vin, but in an open-knit style that can be enjoyed upon release. All the elements are so impeccably balanced. Everything about the 2020 speaks to class and refinement.Antonio Galloni | 90-92 AG

Deep purple-black colored, the 2020 La Gaffeliere gallops out of the glass with exuberant scents of crushed black plums, boysenberries and fresh blackberries, plus hints of eucalyptus, dark chocolate, crushed rocks and iron ore, with a waft of lavender. The medium to full-bodied palate shimmers with compelling energy, delivering layers of black and red berries with fantastic tension and finely grained tannins, finishing very long and wonderfully minerally.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2020 La Gaffelière is simply magnificent. Soaring, regal aromatics are immediately alluring. Deep and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2020 is vibrant and packed to the core. In 2020, the tannins are especially fine and silky for a Saint-Émilion that often shows a bit more tension in its youth. Bright red cherry, blood orange, mocha, spice, dried herbs and leather envelop the palate effortlessly. I imagine the 2020 will provide readers with many decades of exceptional drinking. It is another superb effort from a property that continues to impress.Antonio Galloni | 96-98 AGBlackberry and black-olive aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with layers of fine tannins that fill the mouth. Expansive finish. The tannins are very fine, but abundant. Really impressive.James Suckling | 96-97 JS95–97. Barrel Sample. Incredibly perfumed from the rich Cabernet Franc that gives this wine its real identity. A fine smoky character shines through the firm tannins. This and the wine’s delicious fruits promise great things as it develops.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEAn run of successful vintages at La Gaffeliere, and this again proves why it is an estate to watch, striking an expert balance between power and finesse. Offers a ton of cassis, blackberry, black cherry and damson fruits, licorice root and crushed stone, just gorgeously juicy and stretches out across the palate. Austere tannins at this point, plenty of limestone character, a little tight on the finish but with a velvet texture and promises to age with grace. A yield of 42hl/ha. (Drink between 2028-2044)Decanter | 95 DEC

(Château L’Évangile, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, Red) The sculpting of L’Evangile that began over the past few vintages continues, and the 2020 is a gorgeous wine. Pristine fruit, silky with a whoosh of menthol. It elevates over the palate, both dense and light, with blueberry and raspberry fruits, and pulses of bitter almond and honeysuckle on the finish that gives focus and spice. Juliette Couderc joined L’Evangile (from DBR Lafite’s Long Dai winery) in September 2020 so for the harvest of this wine, working alongside technical director Olivier Tregoat. 50% first wine, with no Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend this year because it was so over-concentrated that it made too much impact. Increased selective harvesting meant going through vineyard plots six times to bring in the grapes as they ripened. A yield of 32hl/ha. In the final year of organic conversion, so this next vintage 2021 will be certified. (Drink between 2028-2050)Decanter | 98 DECThis is so floral and pure, showing crushed-grape character with some walnut and crunchy seeds. It’s full-bodied, juicy and fresh. Purity of fruit. Juicy and long. 88% merlot and 12% cabernet franc.James Suckling | 98-99 JSDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 L’Evangile rolls effortlessly out of the glass with notions of mulberries, black raspberries and stewed red and black plums, plus suggestions of Indian spices, dusty soil and violets with a touch of iron ore. The medium to full-bodied palate possesses compelling freshness and a fine-grained texture to support the muscular black and red fruits, finishing long and earthy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | (96-98)+ RPThe 2020 L’Évangile is fabulous. Aromatic, deep and fleshy, with magnificent purity of fruit, L’Évangile dazzles right out of the gate. Bright Franc aromatics add striking lift as well as vibrancy that carries through to the long, delineated finish. There is an energy to the 2020 that is palpable. Harvest for the Merlot began on September 3, ahead of a heat wave that was forecast, and wrapped up on the 14th for the Merlot and the 21st for the Franc. That approach worked so well here. In the past, L’Évangile and Lafite-Rothschild were very different stylistically, but that seems to be changing now that Saskia de Rothschild is spending a great deal of her time in Pomerol with the new winemaking team. The estate, certified biodynamic as of 2021, has been pursuing a more refined approach for a few years, but 2020 is the first recent vintage where the personality of the year seems to have aligned especially well with the current thinking here. The 2020 L’Évangile is easily the most Lafite-like L’Évangile I have ever tasted. Don’t miss it!Vinous Media | 95-97 VMDescribed as a new age for l’Evangile by the estate, their 2020 Château L’Evangile showed beautifully, with the pure, elegant yet still ripe, beautifully concentrated style of the estate these days. Rocking levels of crème de cassis, black cherries, blueberries, graphite, and violets all emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a terrific sense of purity, present, ripe yet firm tannins, and a great finish. It’s a promising, elegant yet at the same time powerful 2020 that’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for 20-25 years or more. The blend is 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, all raised in 60% new French oak.Jeb Dunnuck | (95-97)+ JDA smoky, structured wine with a fine velvet mouthfeel. This is rich and generous while showing restraint in its bold fruits. It will age well with early pleasure and then lasting for many years.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE