Wine Varietals

wines

Unwinding in the glass with notes of plums, raspberries and spices, the 2019 Côte de Brouilly Brûlhier is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with tangy acids, fine tannins and a long, delicately perfumed finish. Derived from a southeast facing site characterized by blue rock, this is the most youthfully reserved wine in the range but also the most promising for the long haul.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP

Glistening ruby. Primary red and blue fruits and succulent flowers on the mineral- and spice-accented nose. Bright, spicy and energetic on the palate, offering juicy raspberry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that show fine clarity and deepen slowly with air. Delivers seamless texture and bright, minerally cut on the gently tannic finish, which displays strong tenacity and repeating floral and mineral notes.Vinous Media | 93 VMExhibiting notes of plums, spices, dark fruits and rose petals, the 2019 Brouilly is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with powdery tannins and the broadest shoulders of these three cuvées from Alex Foillard. Concluding with a sapid finish, it has turned out well.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

This estate makes incredible whites, and the 2019 Chateauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes Blanc is well worth seeking out. Revealing a medium gold hue as well as great aromatics of white peach, pineapple, white flowers, and spice, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a rounded, elegant texture, bright acidity, and a great, great finish. It’s stunning today and I suspect it will keep for upwards of a decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDBright and well-defined right from the get go, with both rich and racy green melon, green plum, white peach and star fruit flavors, laced with a lemon shortbread hint. The long finish lets the fruit play out, while a honeysuckle note adds range. Drink now through 2024. 500 cases made, 80 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe honeyed and cedar-inflected 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes Blanc shows a bit too much oak on the nose, but it serves to structure the wine on the palate, pushing the pear and melon notes into something more focused and refreshing than it would be otherwise. It’s still a ripe, round wine, marked by oak spice and lingering wood on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Chardonnay Platt Vineyard is laced with hints of jasmine, lemon confit, mint, orchard fruit and tangerine oil. Time in the glass brings out light tropical overtones that take on a Riesling-like feel that is hugely appealing.Antonio Galloni | 95 AG

Bottling in summer 2021, the 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes bursts with aromas of cherries, sweet berries and plums mingled with hints of licorice, cinnamon, red fruit compote and orange rind. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it’s muscular and textural, with broad shoulders and a deep, layered core of fruit. Concluding with a long, saline finish, this is the most powerful wine in the range, and it will require the most patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPPonsot is the largest landowner here, with old vines whose average age is 65 years. Everything at Ponsot is calculated for maximum purity of expression: the fruit is completely destemmed, extraction is gentle and no new casks are used in the maturation. The results in 2019 are absolutely marvellous, with lush dark plum and cassis fruit, alongside savoury, earthy accents. The texture is silky, dense and long. A monumental wine. Drinking Window 2029 - 2049.Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A cool, pure and highly complex nose combines aromas of essence of plum liqueur, black cherry, violet, earth and plenty of spice components. The sense of refinement continues on the sleek, succulent and almost lacy mineral-driven and wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that deliver superb persistence on the exceptionally firm, beautifully balanced and youthfully austere finale. It’s not all the time that Clos de la Roche is described as a wine of class, but in 2019, this wine has that highly desirable attribute. In a word, terrific. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 96 BH

For the first time, Maxime Chuerlin decided to use stems in his crown jewel, the 2019 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, settling on 25% whole bunch for this year. This was an astute decision, because it lends freshness and more complexity to the bouquet of blackberry, undergrowth, tobacco and crushed limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, hints of peppermint behind the black fruit and touches of white pepper and sage toward a finish that fans out wonderfully. A slam-dunk for Maxime Churlin. Five barrels produced, matured entirely in new oak.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) In contrast to the expressiveness of the Echézeaux, this is aromatically more restrained and somber and only grudgingly reveals its more floral-suffused aromas of various dark berries, spice and lavender and violet scents. The sleek and impressively intense bigger-bodied flavors are also not especially dense with very good detail, all wrapped in a dusty, somewhat angular and short finish. Note that my score assumes that this become much more harmonious with a few years in bottle as the underlying material appears to be quite good. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 91-93 BH

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a very detailed, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, raspberry jam and light orange peel aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry opening, a smear of dark chocolate combining nicely with the dark berry fruit, but it is unapologetically backward and surly on the finish compared with the Echézeaux or the Vosne Les Chaumes, so give it some serious cellaring.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaux Monts" 1er Cru Red) A ripe but cool and even spicier nose offers up notes of anise and hoisin on the pretty aromas of black pinot fruit and violet nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense though there is enough sap to buffer the moderately firm supporting tannins on the balanced finish. This isn’t quite as vibrant as the Petits Monts but it’s attractive in a riper fashion. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

Domaine des Combiers is a family estate of 9ha, mostly in Beaujolais with a little down in Mâcon. The Montgenas is produced from hand-picked grapes grown on vines more than 60 years old, on very pink granitic soil, facing to the east. The whole bunches undergo a semi-carbonic maceration for 8-12 days, at the end of which the cap is punched down to extract more of the colour and aromas. Finally, the wine is aged in oak for 10 -12 months. Rosemary George MW: Quite firm, sturdy nose and palate, with fairly dominant oak but good fruit. Andy Howard MW: A touch of reduction on the nose, but bright, fresh fruit to taste with plenty of crisp acidity. Very appealing characters. More black fruit, rather than red. Good density and nice length to finish. A Fleurie which has some extra elements compared to many. Dominique Vrigneau: Black fruit and plenty of it along with good wood support. Very smart. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 95 DEC

At once deep and fragrant, with a wonderful red-rose aroma. There’s a major tannin structure, but it neither pushes nor pulls you in any direction, rather it sits serenely at the heart of this super-elegant wine. Very long, filigree finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JS

Fresh and easy-going aromatics, tarragon and violets beneath the fruit. Full-bodied, a little gummy in texture, but there's a good sense of fluidity to the wine. Clearly defined confit citrus on the finish. Not quite as grand as a typical Châteauneuf perhaps but very good. Very drinkable, with a saline finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 96 DECShows a creamy edge, with a mix of lemon curd, white peach and yellow apple fruit flavors, backed by hints of brioche and macadamia nut. A subtle stony underlay gives it spine on the very stylish and lengthy finish. Drink now through 2026. 300 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe only 2019 white I was able to taste (the 2018s were also reviewed last year), the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Boisrenard Blanc is a richer effort, yet still stays chiseled and focused, with classy notes of pear, white flowers, crushed citrus, and hints of honeysuckle. It shows a kiss of salinity on the palate and is medium-bodied, has bright acidity, and a beautiful finish. This is going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and will keep for a couple of decades or more in cool cellars.Jeb Dunnuck | 94+ JDThere are just 4,000 bottles of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Boisrenard, which comes from 70- to 100-year-old vines. It's mainly Clairette and Roussanne, but includes the other four white varieties authorized in the appellation as well. Vinified and matured in large-format oak, it does show some classy hints of cedar shavings on the nose and a wonderfully slinky, silky texture on the medium to full-bodied palate, both serving to highlight the wine's restrained melon and citrus flavors. Impressively concentrated and balanced, I'd expect this to drink well for up to a decade, at which time it should be nicely truffled and almost decadent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP

This large 1.75ha holding is at the northern end of the lieu-dit, not far from Bonnes Mares, where it is planted in a terres blanches soil similar to the top of the slope. In 2019, the fruit has given a seductive result, with profuse raspberry aromas, a hint of ginger and liquorice. The texture on the palate shows plenty of extract, with sweet fruit but also a lovely depth and density. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture toward the graceful finish. An outstanding Les Cras. Just superb.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis is definitely ripe yet again quite fresh with its overtly floral combination of cassis, poached plum, anise, rose petal and discreet wood-suffused aromas. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the more obviously mineral-driven flavors that culminate in a highly refreshing, chiseled and youthfully austere finale that delivers notably better length. Impressive stuff that should age effortlessly. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BHRoumier’s 2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras unwinds in the glass with scents of cherries, smoky berry fruit, orange rind, Indian spices and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, it’s rich and concentrated, with powdery tannins, succulent acids and a perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

Glistening ruby-red. Mineral-accented red fruit scents are complemented by suggestions of baking spices, earth and pungent flowers. Vibrant red currant, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors show sharp detail and turn deeper as the wine opens up. Closes very long and precise, with solid floral thrust, a repeating mineral note and smooth, slow-building tannins.Vinous Media | 93 VM

This has a swathe of fresh, spicy French oak, making an impressively complex impression on the nose with plenty of fragrant, red florals and cherries. The palate has a very succulent feel with attractively fresh fruit pop. Special 150th anniversary edition. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2019 Pinot Noir Max Edición Aniversario from Aconcagua spent 11 months in French barrels, 15% of them new. Cherry red in hue. The nose features notes of cherry and rose plus wood and a hint of undergrowth. In the mouth this reverberates with taut acidity, a terse, linear texture and concentrated flavor.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Produced from 0.52ha of vines in the centre of Nuits, at the end of the combe, where the cool air from the Hautes Côtes brings freshness and structure. Aged for 15 months in casks (30% new), the wine shows ripe plummy fruit, plus a pleasant combination of firm tannins and fresh acidity on a palate that leads to a slightly rustic finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Charmois has slightly more red fruit than the Aux Lavières, hints of potpourri and lavender complementing the cranberry jus and red currants; more cassis aromas develop later. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very sensual and harmonious. The sorbet-fresh finish delivers black cherry fruit laced with citrus fruits. Very fine.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

From the section of Echézeaux known as Clos St. Denis, 45-year-old vines are planted on southeast facing slopes in clay and limestone soils. The whole cluster vinification here provides a balanced, elegant wine, with bright red fruit and floral aromas, moderate weight, firm-ish tannins and an engaging elegance that should age well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DEC(Maison Philippe Pacalet Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) Here the nose is firmly reduced though it seems clear that the underlying fruit is definitely ripe. The sleek, delicious and relatively refined middle weight plus flavors possess good delineation on the unusually chalky, complex, youthfully austere, compact and beautifully long finish. This is also very much built-to-age though it’s not so structured that it could not be approached after 7 to 8 years. In a word, lovely. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 92-94 BH

The tiny production 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Le Secret Des Sabon is a field blend of mostly Grenache brought up all in wooden tronconique barrels. It’s closest in style to the Prestige Cuvée yet brings another level of opulence and richness without losing any sense of elegance or class. Blackberries, peppery herbs, graphite, crushed violets, and a liquid rock-like minerality all define the nose, and it hits the palate with incredible depth of fruit, full-bodied richness, and ripe yet building tannins. While the acidity is technically quite low (the pH is 3.8), it holds onto an undeniable sense of freshness and purity. It is just a thrilling, magical wine from this estate. While young and unevolved, with 3-5 years of cellaring required, it is a modern-day legend capable of evolving for over two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDA top-notch effort, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon—a blend of two old-vine Grenache parcels from sandier soils—offers up some floral and raspberry notes set against a dark backdrop of plums, mocha and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, dense and rich, it’s almost fudge-like in intensity, but with adequate freshness, a deeply plush texture and tremendous length on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPShimmering ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented black raspberry and cherry liqueur aromas are complemented by incense, licorice and potpourri flourishes. Juicy, sweet and impressively concentrated, offering palate-staining red/blue fruit, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Brawny yet surprisingly lithe as well, showing outstanding clarity and youthfully chewy tannins on the strikingly long, floral and spice-tinged finish.Vinous Media | 96 VMJuicy, dense and packed, yet remarkably defined, with a mix of plum and racy-edged blackberry, boysenberry and raspberry reduction flavors, all laced with a licorice snap thread. Black tea, garrigue and humus accents underscore the finish as the fruit sails through with aplomb. A beauty. Drink now through 2038. 125 cases made, 42 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSVery dark, powerful, slightly tarry and roasted with a very intense - almost too intense - acidity. Surprisingly dark for Grenache on sandy soils, extremely concentrated. A driving, focussed, mineral expression that will take some time to reach its peak. Long finish. 3,000 bottles made. Mostly grown on sand, fermented in stainless steel, then aged in tronconic wooden vats. Drinking Window 2022 - 2045.Decanter | 96 DEC

The 2019 Onomatopoeia is all Chardonnay from the cooler Edna Valley, and it’s a bright, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced white offering classic citrus and lemon fruits, notes of sappy herbs, vibrant acidity, and a great finish. Aged 14 months in 48% concrete eggs, 26% in new barrels, and the rest in neutral oak, bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s incredibly impressive.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2019 Chardonnay Onomatopoeia is creamy, open-knit and inviting, all of which make it a good choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Lees stirring and full malolactic fermentation add textural richness. Hints of apricot, lemon confit, sage and chamomile linger.Antonio Galloni | 91 AG

The 2019 Grenache 2 2 Tango is terrific. A blend of 76% Grenache, 15% Graciano, and the rest Syrah, sourced from multiple sites throughout the Central Coast (mostly Ballard Canyon), it has a cool, lively, incredibly elegant style to go with textbook Grenache notes of red and blue fruits, ground pepper, and herbes de Provence. It has fabulous purity of fruit, and I’m a fan. Drink bottles over the coming 7-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2019 Grenache 2 2 Tango is a blend of Grenache, Graciano and Syrah. Boisterous and racy in the glass, the 2019 has a lot going on. Bright red berry/plum fruit, licorice and spice all open in the glass. This is an exuberant style, but the tannins are pretty fierce. Give it a year to soften.Antonio Galloni | 91 AG

Lovely peach, pear and yellow plum notes form the core, with well-inlaid acidity for support and light verbena and shortbread accents gilding the lush finish. Marsanne and Roussanne. Drink now through 2024. 300 cases made, 10 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBeautifully pure quince, ripe peach, and caramelized citrus notes emerge from the 2019 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, which shows a more medium-bodied, clean, vibrant style. It doesn’t have the richness of the Saint-Joseph releases, yet I love its purity of fruit as well as its balance. It’s going to gain depth with a year of bottle age and keep for 7-8 years, probably longer.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDVery good - this is a fairly rich style of white Crozes, the oak is quite lovingly applied, but it works well. Lacks a bit of focus, but it’s enjoyable with concentrated pear and melon flavours. Drinking Window 2021 - 2022.Decanter | 90 DEC

The entry-level red 2019 Las Cabañuelas is a surprise. They looked for freshness through blending different vineyards. It’s 13.5% alcohol, aromatic, floral and expressive with some herbal hints. This has more tannin than the 2018, and the tannic structure is quite serious; there’s also vibrant acidity and a long, tasty, almost salty finish. This is a bargain; it really over-delivers. 7,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

Vibrant mandarin, really fresh and lively aromatic display. Has some glycerol gummy softness on the palate, but the wine has a nice sense of fluidity and brisk acidity. Very well balanced, fresh, clear-cut and precise. Well-integrated oak, fruit to the fore. Really deliciously drinkable. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030.Decanter | 94 DEC

Dujac's Clos de la Roche holdings include parcels in the original Clos de la Roche heart of the vineyard, in Monts Luisants and in Les Chabiots; a total of nearly 2ha. In 2019, Dujac produced a spectacular wine, already very aromatic with ripe black cherry fruit and notes of spice and earth. On the palate this wine is tannic and structured, but the texture of the tannins is silky, elegant and very refined. Marvellous. Drinking Window 2029 - 2049.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with beautifully defined red fruit laced with Earl Grey, autumn leaves and a touch of white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, demonstrating a little more girth and depth than the Clos Saint-Denis. It gently builds to a spicy and tensile finish, lingering peppery notes ensuring that you will not forget it in a hurry. Every vine that contributed fruit to this wine deserves a big shiny medal.Vinous Media | 97-99 VMThe 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is also a very charming wine, though it will demand a bit more patience than the Clos Saint-Denis for all that. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, warm spices, orange rind, woodsmoke and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, layered and muscular, with lively acids, serious concentration and rich, powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP(Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) More deeply pitched aromas are comprised by notes of poached plum, newly turned earth and the sauvage. The exceptionally fresh large-scaled flavors possess a suave mid-palate texture while displaying outstanding depth on the sneaky long and very firm finale. This moderately austere effort has the potential to be superb though one will have to be prepared to wait for enjoy it at its peak. (Drink starting 2036)Burghound | 95 BH

The 2019 Chardonnay Myrna shows just how compelling the vintage is for white wines. Lemon oil, white flowers, chalk and mint give the 2019 a brilliant upper register that almost comes as a surprise once the wine shows its superb depth and persistence. This highly expressive, nuanced Chardonnay has a lot going on and plenty to offer.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGA polished, minerally chardonnay with sliced apple, lemon rind and some stone and flint. Laurel and other herbs, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with a creamy texture and balance. Phenolic texture. Lively and stony. From mountain vineyards in Sonoma and Mount Veeder. Nice debut wine. Drink or hold. 1,500 cases made.James Suckling | 94 JSHigh-toned and floral, this wine offers a generous mouthfeel of salty oak, mineral and wet stone. The elegant fruit profile combines pear, apple and Meyer lemon with ease, complementing the body weight with ample acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2019 Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills is characterized by broad, intense flavors foiled by tangy acidity. It offers aromas of apple pie, honeycomb, toast and white blossoms and is intensely flavored, ripe and textural, finishing with energetic freshness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPretty aromas of honeysuckle, white peach, lemon tart and flint. It’s full-bodied, yet bright, with tangy acidity. Textured and fleshy. Some spice and hay notes to close. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSWonderfully floral on the nose, sappy and rich on the palate, this expressive wine is packed with flavorful fruits perfectly set against tangy acidity. White peach, Asian pear and a touch of lime combine on a full-bodied midpalate. The juicy fruit flavors energize the wine and set the taster up for sip after sip.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEToasty with a lean oak frame, this smoky chardonnay’s aromas are mildly oaked at first. But the flavors are refreshing, lean and balanced, with an oyster-shell duskiness that suggests a pairing with shellfish, particularly seared scallops. Wine & Spirits | 92 W&S

This bold but light-bodied wine wraps phenomenal fruitiness and freshness in lively acidity and fine-grained tannins for a rare mix of vibrancy and concentration. It stops short of full ripeness and lures with red cherry, sour cherry and rhubarb flavors that are intense and long. Best from 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2019 Pinot Noir Faîte de Mer Farm is the most elegant and complete of the Mendocino wines in this range. It is distinguished by layers of bright, red-toned fruit and soaring aromatics. Bright acids support a core of crushed raspberry fruit, wild flowers, mint, spice and crushed rocks. I very much like the vibrancy and cut here. The Faîte de Mer Farm is simply gorgeous.Antonio Galloni | 94 AG