Wine Varietals

wines

The 2015 Barolo Fossati is slightly more accessible (by the smallest of margins) with well-defined fruit notes of wild berry and redcurrant, followed by rose hip, spice and dusty mineral or crushed slate. This wine is enormously focused and sharp, right down to its deep inner core, with elegant padding and layering at the back. It shows volume and length. The textural fiber of this wine is slightly more relaxed. This is an elegantly constructed and conceived expression of Nebbiolo from one of La Morra’s most gifted artisans.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVoerzio’s 2015 Barolo Fossati is gorgeous. As always, the Fossati has a slightly nervous quality to its tannins. In this vintage, that’s a plus, as it gives the wine tension, energy and focus, all of which work so well in balancing the natural radiance of the fruit. This mid-weight Barolo packs plenty of punch and depth/Vinous Media | 95 VMA dense and fruity red with plums, dark berries, chocolate and hazelnuts throughout. Full body, creamy textured tannins and a chewy yet polished finish. Needs two or three years to come together. Better in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JS

Perhaps the most robust and solid of the three wines by Roberto Voerzio tasted this year, the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is built like a little tank, or motor, that keeps moving forward no matter what. You taste that spirit and determination thanks to the elegantly aligned fruit and spice flavors that make up the wine’s elaborate profile. However, I also taste the 2015 vintage characteristics of rich and concentrated fruit to a greater degree in the Rocche dell’Annunziata. There is a point of softness here that you don’t get in Fossati or Cerequio. I tasted the open bottle again 24 hours later and was treated to beautiful notes of mint and balsam herb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSimilar notes of mulled black cherries, menthol, toasted spices, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata. It has the ripe, sexy style of the vintage, medium to full-bodied richness, an elegant, seamless texture, and a great finish. There are plenty of tannins here, yet they’re sweet and polished, and this beauty already offers pleasure. Nevertheless, it’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and should have three decades of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is laced with the essence of crushed raspberry, flowers, cedar, spice and tobacco. Silky and lifted in the glass, with a real sense of translucent beauty, the 2015 hits all the right notes. It’s a super classic Barolo from one of La Morra’s greatest sites.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Enticing scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry and an earthy whiff of truffle shape the fragrant nose on this dazzling wine. The delicious, full-bodied palate boasts structure and a weightless elegance, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cherry compote, cinnamon and star anise. Taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an elegant structure. It’s already irresistible but will also age well for years. Drink 2022–2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOEnticing scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry and an earthy whiff of truffle shape the fragrant nose on this dazzling wine. The delicious, full-bodied palate boasts structure and a weightless elegance, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cherry compote, cinnamon and star anise. Taut polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an elegant structure. It’s already irresistible but will also age well for years. Drink 2022–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2015 vintage was warmer than 2016, and you can feel it in Bricco Pernice’s penetrating flavors of ripe cherry and raspberry as they glide over powerful, ferrous tannins. Impressively vibrant for the vintage, with detailed scents of rose petals, lavender and orange zest, the wine remains fresh and balanced days after it was opened, indicating a long life ahead.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 97 W&SThe Elvio Cogno 2015 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice delivers the depth, richness and concentration that are a hallmark of this pretty vintage. This wine is a pure expression of the productive Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Generous layers of blackberry, wild cherry, rose hip, ferrous earth and campfire ash are neatly folded together to build the wine’s intensity. Like the other wines from this estate, the tannic management is spot-on. You are aware of the wine’s youthful structure, but it is delivered without hard edges or sharp points. A mere 4,000 bottles were produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Barolo Bricco Pernice is an exotic, beguiling wine. Blood orange, mint, sweet red cherry, star anise and a range of spice notes give the Bricco Pernice striking aromatic and flavor complexity. Medium in body, refined and super-expressive, the 2015 has so much to offer. Best of all, it will drink well with just a few years in bottle. It is such an effortless, gracious wine. Very polished, nuanced and elegant, this silky Barolo has a ton of structure but is also impeccable in its balance.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of camphor and sweet pipe tobacco give way to cherry, tar and wild scrub flavors in this densely structured red, which is elegant and sinewy, with a lingering, chewy finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSRipe and dried-fruit character to the strawberry, floral and citrus aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied and chewy. A little subdued in the palate, but shows ripe, well-formed tannins and vivid fruit. Give it time. Drink after after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JS

There is slightly more structure to the 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté than to the Gavarini Chiniera of the same vintage, and the only differences here are the soils and that this fruit is harvested about ten days later. It’s a pretty fascinating demonstration of the power of the single vineyard. The Gavarini Chiniera parcel offers slightly sandier soils, whereas this site is composed of more clay. In rainy years, the Gavarini Chiniera vineyard drains more effectively, whereas the Ginestra’s soil retains more moisture in the hot and dry vintages. As a result, in vintages such as this one, Ginestra shows a more compact nature and, in general, provides more impact and more structure. This is a very robust expression, extremely linear and tight. The Ginestra Casa Maté narrowly wins this round. It’s another beautiful Barolo.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is creamy, layered and super expressive. All the elements are in the right place. A whole range of deeply spiced, mentholated, balsamic Ginestra notes race out of the glass. With a bit of time, the 2015 starts to open up beautifully. A wine of breath and resonance, the 2015 is just gorgeous today. It hasn’t moved much over the last year, which is a very good thing for its long-term prospects.Vinous Media | 96 VMComplex aromas of figs, ripe strawberries and fresh mushrooms. Full body, firm and tight tannins with a solid core of fruit and a long, linear finish. Great length. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 96 JSPacked with sweet plum, cherry, licorice, iron, tar and leather flavors, this red is alluring and built for the long haul. Lively acidity and dense tannins lend support. Achieves fine balance among all the elements. Patience is required. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 13 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis vineyard lies on a fine slope in Monforte across from Serralunga, and the average age of the vines is 40 years. The nose is piquant, with aromas of dried herbs and flowers as well as red fruits. The palate is sleek, with refined tannins and good acidity, and while there’s no lack of grip it’s not too extracted. It displays a long, fine, spicy finish with just a hint of dryness.Decanter | 92 DEC

Lifted and savory aromatics initially jump out of the 2015 Barolo Riserva Vignolo, with graphite, incense, brushed leather, and dried sour cherry. Full and balanced, with dried currant, tobacco leaf, and clove, it has a powerful, noble structure. This is a wine with layered complexity that is hard to pin down. Drink 2024-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe Cavallotto family’s parcel in the Cru of Vignolo has some of their oldest vines, as this parcel was planted in 1948 and 1966. The 2015 Riserva from Vignolo was given twenty-six days of maceration and the same four years in Botti and one year in bottle prior to release. It too comes in at 14.5 percent alcohol and offers up an excellent aromatic constellation of sappy black cherries, cigar smoke, gamebird, camphor, gently chalky soil tones, fresh oregano and an exotic floral tone of lavender in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and almost bottomless at the core, with lovely sappiness, excellent mineral drive, ripe, buried and plenty chewy tannins, good acids and grip and a long, complex and seamlessly balanced finish that augurs nothing but pure magic once this wine is fully ready to drink! The old vines here give this wine a sense of sappiness that is truly lovely, coupled with a structural refinement that the Bricco Boschis cannot quite keep pace with in the 2015 vintage. Great, great juice. (Drink between 2035-2085)John Gilman | 97 JGAromas of leather, scorched earth, grilled herb and camphor come to the forefront along with whiffs of hazelnut. Savory and full-bodied, the compelling palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, black licorice and baking spice set against youthfully firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2035.Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOAromas of leather, scorched earth, grilled herb and camphor come to the forefront along with a whiff of hazelnut. Savory and full-bodied, the compelling palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, black licorice and baking spice set against youthfully firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2035Wine Enthusiast | 97 WERipe and packed with cherry, strawberry, wild herb and mineral flavors. Vibrant and beautifully balanced, showing a long fruity and herbal aftertaste. Delivers fine poise and harmony on an elegant frame. Best from 2023 through 2042. 580 cases made, 195 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2015 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a beautifully generous and richly layered wine. It opens first to dark fruit, cassis and dried cherry, but the bouquet takes you on an aromatic journey that remains very faithful to the basics of Barolo. The fruit cedes to dark spice, toasted hazelnut and dusty earth or potting soil. The wine is quite interesting and compelling in terms of mouthfeel. The structure shows a tannic pitch that is sufficient to tie it neatly together. Yet the fleshiness and generosity of the fruit serve to give it more volume and dimension. Fruit comes from a 1.96-hectare south-facing site on the Cavallotto family property in Castiglione Falletto with 40-year-old vines. Production is 7,326 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2015 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a powerful, tightly wound wine that is going to need a few years to soften. Its gorgeous, translucent elegance is impossible to miss. Sweet red berry fruit, gravel, rose petal, mint, licorice and darker earthy tones all run through this compelling, beautifully layered Riserva. Impressive.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis talented guy, Alfio Cavallotto, is a faithful example of traditional viticulture in Barolo. Vignolo is a two-hectare vineyard in Castiglione Falletto where, according to the producer, ’in the warm vintages the vines could develop better balance compared with the sandier soil of Bricco Boschis’. A dark profile of prunes and tar is accompanied by tobacco and chocolate, and possibly stained with Brett. It’s full on the palate with firm, dusty tannins, crisp acidity and a slightly drying finish. A powerful, old-fashioned Barolo.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

The complexity, concentration and drive make this an excellent Clos in 2016. The fruits vary from citrus to exotic stone fruits. Green tropical and white floral notes, too. The palate has a staggeringly concentrated core of acid-drenched lemons, lime, peaches and green mangoes. Incredible depth, high acidity and a very long finish. A great Clos! Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS(Chablis “les Clos”- Domaine William Fèvre) The 2016 les Clos from Didier Séguier is a fitting close to this tour de force tasting of the vintage. The wine is stunning on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet offering up scents of apple, lime, a hint of tangerine, smoky overtones, flinty minerality, wet stones and dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, brisk acids and great backend mineral drive on the very young, very long and snappy finish. This will need bottle age to blossom, but it will be a great example of les Clos in the fullness of time. (Drink between 2024-2065)John Gilman | 96 JGClear bright and pale. Attractive aromatics, in a subdued register, all to play for. This has good energy through the middle, while the finish has that limestone backwash that I associate with Clos and very good length. DIAM 10 closure. Tasted May 2019.Jasper Morris | 94 JM(just 18 hectoliters per hectare produced owing to frost and mildew): Pale yellow. Lovely brisk citrus and apple aromas complicated by gingery spices, white pepper and iodiney minerality. Large-scaled, dense and quite powerful but not yet filled in, with its very concentrated peach and citrus flavors accented by ginger and white pepper. More glyceral in the early going than the Preuses but showing less personality today. This fruit was picked very ripe, with nearly 13% potential alcohol, according to Didier Séguier.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe Clos is excellent this year, opening in the glass with a complex nose of orange blossom and zest, confit citrus and a touch of spice. This wine is the most textural, full-bodied and complete in the Fèvre cellar, with a deep core, lovely minerality and impressive dimension.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECEnticing aromas and flavors of green plum, lemon, apple and seashore mark this balanced, seamless white. The flintiness adds an extra dimension, making this complex, while the finish builds nicely. Drink now through 2024. 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSAn even more complex nose displays excellent Chablis typicity with its smoky combination of lychee, citrus, white orchard fruit, sea breeze, mineral reduction and soft oyster shell nuances. The broad-shouldered flavors are rich and concentrated to the point of opulence while managing to retain reasonably good precision on the citrus and solidly dry finale that really fans out as it sits on the palate. Note that my rating assumes that better depth will develop over time as the finish is somewhat one-dimensional at present.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2016 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos, cropped at around 17 hectoliters per hectare, was blended the day previous to my visit and is due to be bottled in December 2017 or perhaps the following month. As such, the aromatics are too leesy to assess. The palate is balanced with a saline, sour lemon-tinged entry, perhaps lighter than the Bougros Côte Bouguerots and with a prickle of spice toward the finish. It should gain complexity and harmony throughout its élevage and will be one to watch.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP

Reminding me of a fresher version of the 2003, the 2016 Chateauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Reservée is another magical wine from Laurence Feraud that could come from nowhere else. I still remember tasting (and loving) this beauty from barrel. It doesn’t quite have the sheer over-the-top decadence of the 2003, but it does have more elegance, while not giving up an inch with regard to texture and opulence. Dark ruby/plum-hued with a monster display of Provençal goodness in its garrigue, lavender, violets, kirsch, plums, and Asian spices, this full-throttle, ripe, sexy Châteauneuf du Pape has silky tannins, flawless balance, and a heavenly texture. It’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and drink well for at least 20-25 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDInflections of violetand rose petal mingle into crushed earth anddried mushroom in this deeply complex red. Blackcherry and black-currant flavors are profoundly ripebut muted by shades of leather, fur and garrigue. Anuanced, deeply satisfying wine, it offers both concentratedripeness and old-world restraint.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA singed chestnut accent leads off here, followed by a sappy core of steeped cherry, raspberry and plum fruit, infused liberally with tobacco, brick dust and garrigue notes. Reveals a brawny edge, but there's ample fruit in the end. A rock-solid old-school style that should cruise in the cellar. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2021 through 2040. 5,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSEvery year that I've tried the 2016 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, I've liked it better than the year before, so I've gone ahead and peremptorily added the + sign to this year's rating. Black cherries and licorice pick up a hint of chocolate in this full-bodied, rich, velvety wine that should evolve nicely for at least 12-15 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDeep ruby. Assertive aromas of black raspberry, potpourri and spicecake pick up a bright mineral nuance and a hint of cured meat with air. Juicy and impressively concentrated, showing real energy and spicy lift to the sappy red berry, bitter cherry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors. Fine-grained tannins build on the finish, adding shape and grip to lingering, spice-accented raspberry liqueur, smoked meat and licorice flavors.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2016 Barbaresco Montestefano is magical. Bright and translucent, the 2016 pulses with energy from the very first taste. This is about as classic as things get in Barbaresco today. Sweet rose petal, cinnamon, dried flowers, cedar and mint all give this ethereal, wonderfully nuanced Barbaresco ton of subtlety. A kick of bright Nebbiolo acids and tannins give energy and shape.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Bright, energetic and vivid, the Paitin 2016 Barbaresco Serraboella Sorì Paitin (with 15,000 bottles made) wins your heart at the very first sip. The wine shows an outstanding level of purity and Nebbiolo authenticity, with the delicate and fragile nuances that give magic to the grape. It shows a lean-weight approach, but there is plenty of power and lasting intensity that sticks to the senses for many long and pleasurable minutes. The tannins are smooth, silky and integrated.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShy in aroma, this red evokes macerated cherry, strawberry, menthol, iron and tobacco flavors. There is ripe, rich fruit and a velvety texture up front, building to a finish where the dense, assertive tannins reign. Best from 2023 through 2042. 1,150 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe excellent Paitin property, focussed on its well-exposed Serraboella vineyard, uses traditional vinification methods, with long macerations and ageing in large casks rather than barriques. This bottling, from 40-year-old vines, displays a heady raspberry nose that’s quite floral too, with beguiling generosity of fruit. It’s lavish and very concentrated in the mouth, with bold tannins that are by no means too extracted or tough. Spicy and assertive, the wine has ample energy, drive and length.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2016 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin is powerful, but also quite reticent today. Dark cherry, menthol, licorice, sage and dried flowers are all found in a searing, intense Sorì Paitin that needs to be at its best. Tannic and austere, the 2016 appears to be going through a closed phase, and yet it has a feeling of verticality and gravitas that is impossible to miss.Vinous Media | 93 VMA very fresh and floral Barbaresco that shows rose stems, fruit tea and grapefruit. Medium body, lots of vibrant acidity and a tangy, medium-chewy finish. Drink from 2021.James Suckling | 93 JS

Camphor, dark spice, wild herb and woodland berry aromas shape the nose. On the focused palate, bright acidity and taut, refined tannins accompany crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry and star anise. Mint and orange zest notes give depth to the finish. Drink 2023–2031.Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOCamphor, dark spice, wild herbs and woodland berry aromas shape the nose. On the focused palate, bright acidity and taut, refined tannins accompany crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry and star anise. Mint and orange zest notes give depth to the finish. Drink 2023–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WERose, cherry and licorice aromas and flavors are accented by leather, tobacco and spice in this focused and complex red. Balanced, but the dusty tannins will need a year or two to integrate. Best from 2022 through 2043. 830 cases made, 119 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA ripe but balanced and very impressive Barbaresco. The first indications of this are the intense strawberry essence, leather, dried red plums and pretty, lifted orange rind. Beautifully mouth-filling and complex in the palate, drawing together strands of ripe tannin and flavorful fruit. Powerful on the robust but well articulated finish. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSEven at a relatively spritely age, the 2016 Barbaresco Bordini is showing some carefully evolved notes and a subdued style. The wine feels well contoured and shaped with softened layers of bramble and wild berry. There is bright elegance and grace here. Pair it with some mild goat or sheep milk cheeses, such as robiola.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2016 Barbaresco Bordini is a classy, polished wine. This is an especially gracious wine from Bordini, where the Barbarescos are often bigger. Sweet spice, tobacco, menthol, licorice and cloves add lovely shades of nuance. Dark in its expression and also tightly wound, the 2016 is very nicely done. I confess, though, I would like to see a little more excitement here.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Aromas of aniseed and lemon rind with dried apple and pear follow through to a full body. Yet, it’s tight and layered with a compact palate and plenty of fruit. Needs time to open. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSThis is not the legendary Côte de Bouguerots bottling, but the regular Bougros – which still stood out alongside its peers. The fruit shows grand cru weight and the sunshine quality of the vintage, juicy but well balanced, while the crystalline purity of the finish sets this wine apart.Jasper Morris | 94 JMAromas of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, peach, mint and buttery pastry introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and enveloping wine that’s one of the more textural, dramatic wines in the range. Unusually deep and concentrated, its immediate, charming profile belies considerable aging potential this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPVibrant, this white combines green apple and citrus flavors with an iodide element. This is lean and intense, with a lingering citrus and mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA ripe and beautifully layered nose consists of notes of green fruit, citrus, iodine and mineral reduction. The powerful, rich and voluminous big-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate density that coats the palate with sap before concluding in an austere, long and vaguely rustic finale. This is an imposing Bougros that should age effortlessly over the next decade plus.Burghound | 92-94 BH

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is a pretty rich, bombastic wine, especially for Mayacamas. A blast of dark fruit, incense, tobacco, licorice, spice and mocha hits the palate. I would give the 2019 at least a few years in bottle to settle down, as it is quite the powerhouse today. This is an unusually flamboyant wine with plenty of richness and a bit less in the way of subtlety. The opulence of the vintage comes through loud and clear.Vinous Media | 97 VMLoaded with character and energy, this version reveals heavy notes of zesty sweet bay leaf and sassafras that infuse a core of steeped red currant and mulberry fruit, all carried by bright acidity and iron-laced tannins. The long finish pulls everything together, with the fruit, savory and mineral elements in harmony. Showing an old-school touch, this has a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon remains true to the winery’s historic style, offering complex notes of dried herbs and mixed berries, carried across the palate by a wine that’s medium-bodied, crisp and somewhat lean by modern Napa standards. It finishes long and dusty, promising well for the future.Robert Parker Wine Advocte | 94 RP

The 2020 I Sodi di San Niccolò is fabulous. It is a rare wine that offers power, finesse and translucent energy at once. All the elements are in perfect balance. I can’t remember a Sodi like this one, a wine that is so complete and alluring right out of the gate. Rose petal, lavender, spice, orange peel and sage open first. What impresses me most about the 2020 is the finesse of its tannin, something I have very rarely seen in Sodi at this early stage. Magical. This is remarkable in every way.Vinous Media | 97+ VMPacked with ripe, juicy cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and floral aromas and flavors, this red is supple and beautifully integrated. Earth, iron and tobacco accents add detail as this winds down on the lazy, resonant aftertaste, showing terrific energy. Sangioveto and Malvasia Nera. Best from 2026 through 2043. 5,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSA delicate combination of aniseed and exotic spices with fragrant floral scents and ripe red berry fruit. Smells really quite individual, a touch of vanilla and caramel about this too. Clean, supple and alive, this has character from the get go, juicy and precise, thrilling acidity joins massy but fine tannins that give this a buzzy, lifted but filling expression from the get go. Everything is at the fore, and carries the intensity to a long finish. Upfront and so intense, but refined and purposeful. It feels effortless as much as it does intense which is quite a feat. Joyful and with complexity. Too young now but give this a few years at least. I love the graphite and wet stone chalkiness on the finish too.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECDeep and dark aromas of Mediterranean herbs, restrained black cherries and stern, earthy complexity. Firm on the palate, with a full body, velvety tannins. crisp acidity and a chalky finish. Long, toasted graphite aftertaste. Sangiovese and malvasia nera. A wine intended for the long haul, yet ready to drink in a year or two.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a straightforward bouquet: orchard fruit and Granny Smith apples with just a touch of petrichor. It’s not complex, but it has more typicité than some of its brethren (even if it needs to shake off some reduction that actually becomes more evident with aeration). The palate is well-balanced with plenty of concentration, real weight and heft in the mouth, citrus peel mixed with lanolin and a hint of fennel. Spicy towards the finish, this lingers long in the mouth. Power and tenderness combined. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMFresh in colour, a lifted perfumed floral nose, on the sharper side. Then some bacon fat as well as lemon balm. Not quite sure what to make of this. No faulting the intensity, but it is not quite harmonious today. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

With 3.65ha spread over eight plots, Fèvre is the largest owner in Vaulorent. Didier Seguier says marl soil gives the density, while Kimmeridgian supplies the minerality. Great complexity on both the nose and palate, this has the richness and structure of the grand cru. Absolutely no need to rush drinking this. Stunning.Decanter | 96 DECOne of the finest wines in the portfolio this year is the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a taut, youthfully reserved bottling of immense promise. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, beeswax, crisp white peach, white flowers, freshly baked bread and oyster shell, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with terrific tensioning intensity in a tightly wound format. It’s warmly recommended, though patience will be required.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP(Chablis “Vaulorent”- Domaine William Fèvre) I am always impressed that Didier Séguier chooses to only bottle the finest parcels of old vines in Vaulorent under that label, with the remainder of the domaine’s holdings being bottled under a Fourchaume label. But, when one tastes this hard on the heels of the very fine Fourchaume domaine wine, one can see that these old vines are a step up in quality. The bouquet of the 2020 Vaulorent jumps from the glass in a stunning blend of pear, apple, tart orange, lemon zesty, a kaleidoscopic base of limestone minerality, a touch of anise and a floral topnote redolent of white lilies. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, superb mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and great balance on the long and zesty finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2065)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe restrained and layered nose makes clear that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its aromas of algae, iodine, oyster shell and spiced pear. The texture of the medium-weight flavors is also sleek and intense with slightly better density if a bit less refinement to the youthfully austere bitter lemon-suffused finish. Lovely and while qualitatively equal to the MdT, it offers a markedly different expression.Burghound | 93 BH

(Chablis “les Preuses”- Domaine William Fèvre) The 2020 les Preuses from Domaine Fèvre was one of the finest white wines I tasted from the entire vintage during my trip in November and December. The perfect ripeness of the vintage, coupled to such great acidity are the hallmarks of the best wines of 2020 and these attributes are on full display in this stunning young wine. The nose soars from the glass in a mineral bath of les Preuses Kimmeridgian limestone terroir, carrying notes of apple, pear, fresh lime, straw, oyster shell, white flowers and a topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is pure, precise, snappy and very, very complex, with great depth at the core, stunning mineral definition, laser-like focus and stunning length and grip on the simply beautiful young finish. All this great wine needs is time in the cellar to blossom. (Drink between 2031 - 2080)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is, if anything, even more electric than the formidable Valmur, wafting from the glass with notions of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, oyster jus and wet stones. Full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it’s racy and intense, with a bright spine of acidity and a long, intensely saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPFrom 1.5ha on soils that are high in clay content above Bougros, together with 1ha just above Bouguerots. Distinct precision here, not a blockbuster but intense and focused. Lovely crystalline fruit and will age beautifully.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of quinine, essence of wet stone and seashore add breadth to the nose of pear, apple and anise. Once again there is fine density and intensity to the mouthcoating medium-weight flavors that flash outstanding length on the bracingly saline-suffused finale. This has already developed very good depth and more will almost surely follow. This is potentially outstanding.Burghound | 95 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru comes from 2.5 hectares of vines in two locations, one east-facing and one southwest-facing. It has quite a deep, intense nose featuring lemon zest, crushed stone, linden and touches of citrus peel. The cohesive palate is smooth and harmonious with fine salinity, if maybe not quite building on its initial promise, as the finish pulls up just a little short compared to the Bougros. Still, this should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is deeply complex and spicy, with a wild bouquet that blends orange shavings, sour cherries, rosemary and nuances of split pine. It possesses an impenetrable core of crunchy red berry fruits and mineral tones, with hints of clove adding a bitter bite under an air of violet inner florals. Youthfully dense yet refined, there is simply so much going on here, as tart cranberry blends with a saturation of fine tannins and inner rose tones swirl throughout. Nearly a minute goes by, and the 2021 can still be sensed through a tinge of licorice and lavender. This is a drop-dead gorgeous and radiant effort for Salvioni, with a bright future in store for patient collectors.Vinous Media | 97 VMAlso tasted from barrel, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino La Cerbaiola takes on notes of blood orange, dark berries, and dark earth. Offering a noble structure with good acidity and a more angular feel, it has a good deal of tension up front and a long finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

Aromas of forest floor, ripe woodland berry, cedar and lavender come to the forefront on the beautiful 2021 Brunello from Armilla. Elegantly structured and savory, the vibrant palate offers crushed Morello cherry, wild strawberry, star anise, rosemary and a hint of truffle accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe Armilla 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the character of the vintage with good freshness, dark fruit nuances and notes of pressed flowers. It offers solid intensity—measured, but not shy—and moves across the palate with medium fruit weight, concluding with a short, somewhat lean finish. Produced from organically farmed (but not certified) vineyards in the southern part of the appellation, Armilla’s Brunello typically emphasizes purity and approachability over power. This is a lighter, more informal style of Brunello, albeit with a Brunello price tag. Production is 10,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly floral, with a hint of crushed rocks and dried herbs giving way to subtle strawberry nuances. It is wonderfully fresh and lifted, with a core of brisk acidity and juicy wild berry fruits. Edgy tannins and inner florals resonate as the 2021 tapers off long but lifted.Vinous Media | 92 VMModern style here, with lush plums and black cherries, violets and licorice. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky yet tight tannins. Bitter finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 91 JS

A restrained wine with a graceful nose of subtle red cherries, wild strawberries, sweet violets and complex earth and tamarind. Full-bodied with licorice flavors, a dense mid-palate and velvety tannins that are powerful yet ripe. Slightly lifted acidity and a long,chewy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with heavenly perfumes as geraniums, bergamot and rose petals mix with lavender and exotic spice. It is lifted and sleek with cool-toned acidity and tart red and blue fruits flowing beneath an air of violet inner florals. The finish has saturating tension, mixing fine-grained tannins with graphite mineral tones and citrus, while hints of sour cherry pinch at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 94 VMPackaged with a gold label, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino marks the return of a wine I personally have not seen in years. In truth, this wine has been produced since 2005, the year the Gaja family acquired a vineyard in the Torrenieri area in the northern part of the appellation where clay-rich soils with high water retention create powerful wines with softer acidity. Fruit from that vineyard was blended with grapes from the Rennina and Sugarille vineyards. However, this wine has recently seen the inclusion of fruit from two new plots, Bolsignano and Villa a Tolli, that bring acidity freshness and mineral tension. The wine presents a medium- to full-bodied texture with notes of dried fruit, cassis, tarry smoke and savory leather. It is lean on the mid-palate yet long and polished. Tight-edged tannins suggest the need for additional bottle aging, a profile consistent with a traditionally structured Brunello. This is a release of 90,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

A complex and minerally wine with aromas of crushed stones, graphite, red cherries, licorice, dried flowers and aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, tense and crisp on the palate, with firm, velvety tannins and a juicy, chalky yet ripe finish with fruity and gamy flavors. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina delivers power and a full-bodied style shaped by a warm vintage and carefully calibrated oak aging under the Gaja family’s expert hand. It shows notable volume and texture, with an open-knit feel that reveals black fruit and spice on the close. Tightly wound at present, it requires more time to age and fully integrate its elements. This is a production of 14,400 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina boasts a dark ruby hue and a bouquet of crushed blackberries, dusty sage, talc, nuances of mint and orange zest. It’s racy with bright acidity and crisp wild berry fruits that slowly saturate the senses, further enhanced by an array of grippy tannins. This Brunello finishes with excellent length and heroic structure, leaving a cascade of inner florals and subtle licorice twang.Vinous Media | 95 VMCurrently resting in concrete, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Renina is a jeweled ruby hue and offers aromatics that are compact and pure with liqueur of red cherries. It’s more consistent on the palate, with ripe tannins, seamless acidity, crystalline freshness, and a very even and long finish, but it’s not lacking for ripeness. I predict this will be a very successful vintage for this wine, which is more similar to 2019 in terms of its more noble structure.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

The organic La Torre 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a fleeting impression of fruit ripeness that quickly gives way to classic Sangiovese complexity marked by grilled herbs, blue flowers and earthy nuance. There is a tactile, skin-driven quality to the palate in this vintage, almost as if tasting the grapes directly at harvest, bringing added crunch, spice and energy. Despite Brunello’s mandatory five years of aging, the wine maintains a vivid sense of freshness, rolling across the palate in a collected and measured manner. Aged in Slavonian oak casks, the tannins are well integrated and supported by just enough acidity to keep the wine moving with precision. Fruit comes from 4.9 hectares of vineyards situated at 420 meters in elevation, helping to preserve balance and a gracefully accessible 13.5% alcohol content. Production is approximately 15,000 bottles, including larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDusty sage and rosemary give way to shaved blood orange and nuances of white smoke as the brooding 2021 Brunello di Montalcino dominates the glass. It is dark and rich on the palate, weightier than anticipated, with depths of ripe red and black fruit over a penetrating core of minerality. The senses are left clenched by youthfully aggressive tannins as the 2021 tapers off dramatically long and structured for the cellar.Vinous Media | 93+ VMRed fruit, lavender, cedar and a hint of sweet spices. Medium-bodied, with chewy tannins and tender fruit lifted by fresh acidity. The balance of delicacy and structure makes this particularly appealing. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2028.James Suckling | 93 JS

Pouring a medium red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is lush and pure on the nose, with cherry liqueur, crushed lavender, polished leather, and sage. The palate is medium to full-bodied and tightly coiled, with vibrant acidity, ripe tannins, and a compact, restrained feel that carries through the long finish. It’s going to benefit from another year or more in bottle to unfurl and should drink beautifully over the coming two decades. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JD

The Ca’ Marcanda 2021 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in a supporting role. This a bold and beautifully concentrated wine with a brilliant character that is best described as Rubenesque. It shows supple texture and deep richness supported by sweet fruit and raspberry tart. The ripe, well-managed tannins cede to tingling freshness that adds energy and life.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2021 Camarcanda is a fabulous wine from the Gaja family, the best they have ever made at their Bolgheri property. The wines here have been through some ups and downs, but there seems to be greater focus over these last few years. Silky, aromatic and wonderfully pure, the 2021 Camarcanda offers a super, contemporary expression of Bolgheri with plenty of coastal sunshine and warmth, but nothing excessive. Silky tannins frame the exceptionally polished, nuanced finish. The 2021 is so alluring.Vinous Media | 97 VMPure and elegant, with saturated flavors of violet, black currant, blackberry, licorice and iron. This is so beautifully balanced that it feels almost seamless, even at this young stage, offering a sleek profile and endless aftertaste that echoes the fruit. The oak is very well-integrated, with polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 2,500 cases made, 333 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSBottled in July of 2022, the 2021 Ca’ Marcanda has a dark saturated ruby hue and seamless aromatics of graphite, black cherry liqueur, cocoa powder, and forest herbs. Full-bodied on the palate, with great structure, focus and length, and wonderful richness, it’s incredibly even in its balance and has a very long finish. It’s going to need a few years to improve and show its best, but this is a remarkable wine from this stunning vintage. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDSince the hot 2015 vintage, Merlot has been omitted from Carmarcanda. It’s a stunning effort in 2021, with fragrant scents of dried cherry, sous bois and minty black fruits, which carry through onto the intense and vibrant palate. There’s a streak of balsamic herbs, and some raspberry and floral notes too. Poised and minty-fresh, this is a stunner.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA savory and juicy young red with currant, raspberry and boysenberry aromas and flavors that follow through to a medium to full body, with creamy and polished tannins and a pretty finish. There’s a freshness and focus to this. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

2021 was an exceptional year in the Langhe as is clearly demonstrated by the gorgeous 2021 Barbaresco from Produttori. It boasts beautiful aromas of violet, rose, cake spice and mint that carry over to the elegant palate along with succulent red cherry, crushed raspberry and star anise. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity keep it impeccably balanced. Made from blending Nebbiolo from different vineyard sites, this is the firm’s classic Barbaresco and is one of the greatest values in Italian fine wine. Drink 2027–2033. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThis wine gives us our first taste of the epic 2021 vintage from a producer as prolific as Produttori del Barbaresco. Bottled in April 2024, this vintage shows the immense power and complexity that likens it to 2016, another year for collectors. The 2021 Barbaresco offers medium-rich density that is transmitted both to the wine’s appearance and its mouthfeel. There is black fruit, spice and a touch of nutmeg. However, the wine maintains its youthful tension and energy throughout. The tannins are chalky, fine and void of any bitterness. This is a classical expression of Nebbiolo that gives us good reason to be excited for the upcoming 2021 Barbaresco Riservas.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPA vibrant, well-defined red, offering rose, cherry, strawberry, white pepper and mineral flavors. Sleek and elegant, this firms up on the linear finish. Balanced and approachable now yet would benefit from a bit more time to knit together. Excellent length. Best from 2027 through 2040. 24,000 cases made, 7,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2021 Barbaresco offers more complexity and sports a bit deeper shade of red than the 2021. Layered with aromas of kirsch, darker spice, cardamom, candied flowers, and orange peel, the palate is more structured and compact, with savory notes of salty earth, angular, ripe tannins, and its more citrus-noted acidity shining on the palate. It has more nervous energy and needs more time. Give it another couple years and drink 2027-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDAn intriguing wine with aromas of potpourri, dried cherries and candied orange zest. Smoky and juicy on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins, a full body and a long, savory finish. Drinkable now, but it has great potential for the long haul.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, deep wine. Although the aromatics are a bit closed, the 2021 shows gorgeous depth and a touch more palate presence than is typically the case for this bottling. Dark and enveloping, the 2021 will offer a number of years of very fine drinking. It is an impressive, classy wine from Produttori del Barbaresco.Vinous Media | 93 VM

First bottled in 1978, refined Brunello elevated for 36 months in a mix of medium and large oak barrels. Marjoram, cinnamon and wild sage in olfaction, drink thickly, with brackish tannins, return of the notes of small medicinal plants and persistence.Luca Gardini | 97 LGA medium red hue introduces the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino, which opens with toasted cedar, licorice, red cherries, pressed flowers, rosemary, and polished leather. The palate is medium-bodied and zesty, with pure, ripe red fruit, ripe tannins, and refreshing acidity that keeps it energetic and focused through the finish. It should drink at its best over the next 15-20 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDAromas of black cherries, orange peel and crushed stones, Medium-bodied with juicy fruit and a flavorful finish. There’s almost a sandy, terra cotta character in the finish. Lovely balance. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSCamphor, lavender, new leather and forest floor aromas form the nose on the 2021 Brunello from Mastrojanni. The palate shows great intensity, featuring ripe black cherry, raspberry, licorice and fine tobacco blend before an orange zest note lifts the finish. It’s brawny but balanced, with taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass with a burst of crushed ashen stone and sage, giving way to mulling spice and dried black cherries. It envelops the palate with silken textures and masses of ripe dark red fruits, soothing, polished and balanced in feel. Edgy tannins mingle with a subtle citrus twang as rosy inner florals resonate through the dramatically long, youthfully structured finale. The balance here is beyond reproach. Mastrojanni blended in the juice from the Vigna Schiena d’Asino to bolster this bottling.Vinous Media | 93 VM