Wine Varietals

wines

Black cherries, currants, leather, savory herbs, and a beautiful sense of minerality all emerge from the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Rioja Vineyard. I love its remarkable purity and freshness, and on the palate, it’s full-bodied with flawless overall balance, building ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It’s an incredibly structured, layered, impressive beauty that deserves 4-5 years of bottle age. Drink 2029-2049.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JD

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane hits the palate with dark-toned fruit, leather, incense, chocolate, gravel and dried herbs. This is an especially virile, potent Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that paints a starkly different side of St. Helena vis-à-vis the Panek. Give this a few years to soften. Memorable.Vinous Media | 97 VMComing from a site just beside Dr. Crane in St. Helena and all See clone, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane is a beautifully pure, elegant, finesse-driven wine in the vintage. Red, blue, and black fruits intermixed with spicy, floral, and candied violet nuances define the aromatics. It’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, with remarkably pure, polished tannins and outstanding overall balance. This charming Cabernet Sauvignon can be drunk today or cellared for 15+ years. There are 395 cases produced. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom a two-acre site located south of the city of Saint Helena, near Dr. Crane, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Vidovich Lane Vineyard has layers of ripe cherries tinged with dark chocolate. It’s full-bodied and really supple but still shows ample structure and length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP

The village-level Chablis from Billaud-Simon is a classic expression of the terroir, with aromas of lemon peel and white flowers and a fine, silky texture. The acidity is balanced if not pronounced, giving the wine finesse without a lot of tension. Régisseur Olivier Bailly notes that this final year of organic conversion was a struggle with the weather, but he is pleased with the final blend, which included 25% cask-fermented wine.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

A dizzying array of aromas range from green apple and peach to soft white blossoms and spice. The texture is dense, but surprisingly good acidity for the vintage deftly balances the richness and carries the wine to a solid finish. Grapes from the best village-level sites throughout the appellation are fermented in stainless steel tanks and large casks (15%), then the wine aged for six months on its fine lees to give a bit more depth. Will drink well on release and represents fantastic value in Chablis.Decanter Magazine | 92 DECReserved aromas of yellow apple, forest floor and pear blossom open on the nose. Steely in texture the palate is well served by chalk-dusted acidity that brightens the finish with an added twist of lemon peel. Pair with langoustines, mussels and goat cheese.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

All Grenache sourced mostly from the Chapouin lieu-dit with a splash from Janasse, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Chaupin shows a medium ruby hue followed by a pretty, perfumed, remarkably elegant profile. It has a core of sweet red and black berry fruits, absolutely heavenly Provençal aromatics of herbes de Provence, black olive, pepper, and flowers, plus ripe, velvety tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Partially destemmed and aged 12 months in 70% foudre and 30% demi-muids, this heavenly 2023 will drink beautifully over the coming two decades. There are roughly 1,500 cases produced. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDAs always, a pure Grenache Noir sourced from sandy soils, the 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin is a terrific effort. Mingling aromas of wild herbs, dark berries, baked mulberries and garrigue, it avoids the excesses of over-ripeness or overt spice, instead delivering a beautifully controlled expression. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and layered, it displays impressive concentration and a sense of coiled energy, its muscular core of fruit framed by a fine chassis of ripe tannins. The finish is long, delicately spiced and impressively persistent. This will reward patience, as time in bottle should bring greater harmony and finesse.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPHuge in scale, with a potent, warm, sappy profile. Its opulent rush of ripe cherry and licorice is well-framed by polished, firming tannins. Alder, anise and lavender smoke stream through; the finish is well-supported and reined in. Concentrated and broad-shouldered. This is for fans of the hedonistic style yet still shows drive and complexity. Best from 2027 through 2040. 3,333 cases made, 112 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA solid, well-composed and flavorful red with cherries, sweet strawberries, warm herbs and a hint of baked orange. Full-bodied with fine tannins giving a refined texture. Juicy and driven, with a long, flavorful and well-structured finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSStrawberry compote, raspberry jam, licorice and crushed violets introduce the expressive 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chaupin, with ripe black cherry adding more complexity. Neatly structured through firm tannins, the full-bodied 2023 packs ample flavor concentration and density, doubling down with blackberry flavors and garrigue on the long, savory conclusion. This won’t need as much time to come around as the Vieilles Vignes from the same vintage tasted alongside.Vinous Media | 93 VM

From three vineyards in the Deep End of the Anderson Valley, it’s loaded with forest character and beautiful wild florals. Wild roses, lavender and salty notes of blood orange, sweet earth and crushed stone.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir The Fog-Eater is made from grapes grown at high-elevation Clow Ridge and Valenti, where getting grapes ripe always has to contend with the fog, mingling spicy red fruit and citrus over a perfumed, savory, and textured palate of tremendous refinement and lasting freshness. Some whole-cluster doesn’t detract from the overall prettiness and transparency of the wine, adding just a hint of stemmy intrigue and a light-bodied joie de vivre. There’s structure and tannin but not too much. Drink now through 2033.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDAn aromatic and pretty wine with earth, wild herbs, mint and bay leaves on the nose. It’s fresh, with cleansing acidity that’s elegant and lifted. Cascading tannins in the finish. Medium-bodied. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2023 Pinot Noir The Fog-Eater is an absolute delight. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper are all beautifully lifted in this understated, ethereal Pinot. Gracious and inviting, The Fog-Eater captures the restrained, nuanced side of the year in style.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2023 Pinot Noir “Fog Eater” from Drew Family Cellars is crafted from fruit sourced from three different northern Anderson Valley vineyards: Clow Ridge, Fashauer and Valenti Ranch. The soils here are sandstone and decomposing shale, with overnight fogs keeping evening temperatures low. The wine comes in at 13.5 percent octane in 2023 and included twenty percent whole clusters. The bouquet is bright, nicely red fruity and shows lovely transparency down to the soils, delivering notes of cherries, beetroot, fresh herb tones, gamebird, a fine base of soil, a nice touch of whole clusters, cedar and a lovely smoky topnote of distant bonfire. On the palate the wine is bright, young and full, with a good core of fruit, excellent soil inflection and grip, tangy acids, fine focus and grip and a long, nascently complex and very well balanced finish. This is going to be a fine bottle once it has softened up its tannins properly. (Drink between 2035 - 2075)John Gilman | 91+ JG

Starts off fluid in feel, offering a silky profile of star fruit, peach, waxy pear and white blossoms, with good ripeness and a hint of blanched almond set against a racy beam of succulent acidity. Its steely spine of flint is pronounced and builds in intensity toward the finish, lined in river stone and smoke notes. Drink now through 2029. 1,000 cases made, 458 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Flint and spice come through clearly, showing a higher level of reduction in the winemaking and providing intensity and intrigue to the wine. It’s medium-bodied, linear and very racy with a bright, lightly phenolic finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSA slightly more elegant nose proffers a more pronounced floral influence along with cool essence of pear, apple and lemon zest nuances. The succulent, vibrant and utterly delicious medium weight flavors terminate in a dry, clean and balanced finale. This too could use better depth so at least a few years of cellaring should prove to be beneficial.Burghound | 89-91 BHA blend from all the plots of Puligny except Charmes and Trézin. A pretty bouquet with some fresh citrus blossom on the nose, pure white fruit on the palate, which is on the broader side but with enough concentration to kick on nicely to a tasty finish. Very correct and quite accessible. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JM

The 2023 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet that seems to "expand" in the glass: apricot and peach skin meet a touch of melted candle wax, all nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine mineralité, fresh and focused, gaining weight towards the finish, which actually reminds me of the Perrières from Ballot-Millot. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93 VM

This village-level terroir produced an arrestingly good wine in 2023, offering aromas of ripe pear, hazelnut and a crisp, linear tension on the palate, tempered by enough ripeness and the density given by the clay soils. The grapes are from the domaine-owned parcel in the valley leading to La Rochepot in a cold, windy spot at 430m elevation. Although this should drink well on release, it is eminently suited for mid-term ageing.Decanter Magazine | 93 DEC

Displays a bright lemon peel and green apple fruit, with a bottom note of flinty minerality and just a hint of smoky reduction. The texture, however, is richer than the aromas would lead one to think – it is supple and approachable, with a hint of hazelnut on the agreeable finish. The domaine farms slightly more than a quarter-hectare near the base of the slope.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECPale colour, a softer white orchard fruit on the nose, there being more clay in the soil here. The mouth retains a certain juiciness, with the apples expanding towards the back of the palate. Clean and correct. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Because it is blocked by the peak known as the Roche Dumay, this south-facing slope overlooking the hamlet of Gamay does not get the sun until after 10am, but it has light into the evening, lending the fruit a slightly exotic passion fruit character. The texture is not heavy, however, and winemaker Sébastien Caillat manages both elegance and finesse, although he notes that the ripeness can jump quickly at the end of the season.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECIn the hail corridor. .En Créot does not see the sun until 10am so harder to do the treatments when there is still dew. Pale in colour with a light white fruit. Some ripe apples, middleweight, a little more mineral tension than the village wine, with good length. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

A wine to seek out. Racy and very fine, the grapes come from the very top of the slope, and offer forward aromas of lime peel and gooseberry with a flinty, mineral edge. Marvellous acidity and great depth of flavour on the palate, along with a pleasantly silky texture. Although this will be attractive when bottled, it can also be aged.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECGrapes from less vigorous plants, situated on the limestone upper hillside. Very pale, stones in whitewash on the nose. Classy and classical, with an extra kick of fresh white fruit and lemon acidity at the finish. Persistent, more my style of wine. More nuanced at the finish. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard is ruby red in color and is charming upfront, offering notes of grenadine, purple flowers, sweet herbs, and dusty earth. Focused on the palate, with angular tannins and lively acidity, it has a floating texture and perfumed notes of peach that last on the finish. There’s a refined tension and Nebbiolo-like structure, with a linear drive here that I absolutely love. Drink through 2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDEola-Amity Hills evangelist Ken Pahlow does his most recognised work with Chardonnay, but his Pinot Noirs from his own high-profile site for the Valley’s next generation of winemakers are also remarkable. Leaning into minerality and white pepper, the aromatics pop with taut red berries and sea salt. Briny on the front palate, the mineral zip leads to fresh strawberries and mint leaves. There’s a streak of graphite that centres minerality directly into the finish.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard comes from mixed clone vines planted in 2016 in volcanic soils at 720 to 1,080 feet in elevation. Fermented with 25% whole clusters and matured for 15 months in 45% new French oak, it has slowly unfurling scents of blackberry, rhubarb, blood orange, forest floor, violet and tobacco. The medium-bodied palate is powerfully styled with concentrated yet detailed flavors. It’s framed by chalky tannins and vibrant acidity and has a long, spicy finish. 175 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2022 Pinot Noir Koosah Vineyard opens with a savory herbal flourish complicated by hints of chalk dust and wild blueberries. This displays textures of pure silk, pliant and supple, with depths of red and blue fruits that slowly saturate toward the close. It leaves a tart cherry saturation with nuances of licorice and spice over a bed of gently grippy tannins. Koosah is shaping up to be one of the most exciting locations Walter Scott works with.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2023 Koosah Vineyard pinot noir from Walter Scott saw forty-five percent new oak in this vintage, with no whole clusters used. The wine’s élevage was done entirely in two hundred and twenty-eight liter casks. It comes in at 13.5 percent octane this year and also gets my vote as the most beautiful wine label to be found anywhere! The wine’s gorgeous bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, a complex base of volcanic soil, hints of the cola to come, cedary oak, violets and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins, tangy acids and impeccable balance on the long, nascently complex and precise finish. This is going to be a superb bottle of pinot noir in due course, but it is classically structured and will demand some extended cellaring before it starts to drink with generosity. (Drink between 2040 - 2085)John Gilman | 94+ JGA dark raspberry dipped in dark chocolate aroma is a heck of a way to make an introduction. Beyond the fruit and chocolate are traces of loamy soil and coriander. The Koosah feels fresh and energetic on the palate, as snappy acidity energizes flavors like boysenberries, lemon zest and a hint of black pepper.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Coming from mostly volcanic soils in the Eola-Amity Hills, the 2023 Pinot Noir Witness Tree Vineyard pours a deeper shade of ruby red. It’s a total charmer out of the gate, offering notes of wild raspberries, pressed flowers, fresh herbs, and dark stones. The palate is medium-bodied but has a more saturating and even feel, with purity and concentration. An elegant red, it floats through the finish, with velvety, ripe tannins, balanced acidity, and a juicy feel on the finish. A pleasure to taste now, it’s going to have a wide drinking window and should see its 15th birthday still drinking well.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThere are few things as exciting in the Willamette Valley as the new developments at Witness Tree, a historic estate that once produced rustic wines has come under new ownership, resulting in a renewed focus on viticulture and a buzz among the valley’s top winemaking talent. The Walter Scott 2023 Pinot Noir is imbued with a mineral freshness on the nose. Briny ocean air and dark woodland fruits show an elegance and depth backed by earthy richness and a dark, brooding intensity. Umami and mushroom notes linger for minutes on the finish.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Witness Tree Vineyard comes from vines planted in 1999 and 2017 in volcanic soils. Matured for 15 months in 30% new oak, it has inviting aromas of black cherry, pomegranate, blood orange, rooibos tea and flint. The medium-bodied palate features concentrated layers of spicy fruit. It’s framed by fine, chalky tannins and bright acidity and has a long, flavorful finish. 125 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2022 Pinot Noir Witness Tree Vineyard captivates with a burst of sour cherries and blackberries complicated by hints of sage and white pepper. This impresses further with masses of wild berry fruits and savory herbal tones, all motivated by a core of juicy acidity. The 2022 finishes spicy, long and staining to the palate as tart citrus adds contrast to notes of red plum through the lightly tannic finish.Vinous Media | 94+ VMNot all of the pinot noir in the Witness Tree Vineyard had to be replanted because of phylloxera, so Walter Scott is able to source two blocks of pinot here, with one a newly-planted section and the other still planted to twenty year-old vines. The wine includes no whole clusters this year and was raised in thirty percent new oak. The 2023 offers up a lovely aromatic constellation of sweet dark berries, black cherries, a touch of anise, a lovely base of dark soil tones, incipient notes of cola, woodsmoke, hints of fresh thyme and a delicate framing of new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and deep at the core, with lovely soil transparency and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins, lovely balance and a long, complex and still fairly primary finish. This wine has all of the constituent components necessary for a long and lovely life in bottle; all it needs first is some hibernation time in the cellar to properly soften up its tannins. (Drink between 2039 - 2085)John Gilman | 93 JGA tart, almost ripe blackberry scent fills the air, along with the wine’s Assam black tea and chalkboard dust aromas. The wine’s acidity is as aggressive as a stock trader on the floor, giving it noticeable energy. A rich flavor that borders on cassis coats the palate, while earthy notes of oregano and blackberry tea hover on the perimeter.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

As always, this estate crafted one of the most perfumed and complex rosé wines in France. The 2023 Bandol Rose exhales aromas of spring flowers, guava, lemon, spices and iodine mingled with delicate licorice hints. Medium-bodied, textural and layered, it’s perfectly balanced with a fleshy core of fruit and bright acids, concluding with a long, mineral and iodine-inflected finish. Kudos!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWonderfully perfumed, the 2023 Rosé entices with orange oil, nectarines, crushed wild berries and savory herbs. Rich and broad yet with a stimulating core of acidity, this plays a game of contrasts on the palate, mixing citrus-laced green melon with zesty spice and crisp mineral tones. A cascade of rosy inner florals fills the senses, as a resonance of white peach and a zest of lime keep the mouth salivating. Glorious today yet also gently tannic, the 2023 is a showstopper.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Huia has never been one to make stereotypical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, and the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc is no different. Under new ownership but with the winemaking remaining in the hands of former co-owner Clare Allen, the 2023 is a quiet, elegant, aromatically delicate expression. A little more than light in body, it has a rich, succulent and rounded texture, no doubt a combination of the organic vineyards, wild fermentation and use of barrel. Flavors of honeysuckle, ripe apple and lightly toasted hazelnuts linger on the mouthwatering finish.Vinous Media | 92 VM

It must be difficult being Cloudy Bay, because fame brings extra scrutiny and the question, ‘Does this brand offer value for money in the context of the wider region?’ In 2023, the Sauvignon Blanc silences its critics. Its vineyard may be much larger than it once was, but it delivers – dry, clean and elegant, with classic characteristics and the bonus of welcome structure on the finish. It may not be the most flamboyant on the nose, focusing more on the herbal rather than tropical spectrum (whether that’s elderflower, gooseberry or classic passion fruit), but that seems to be a function of the vintage. The 2023 is long, fragrant and exactly what you want from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but with an extra layer of class. Vinous Media | 93 VMShows typical guava, grass and flint aromas with some green melon. Medium-bodied with a solid density of fruit as well as brightness and acid energy. Really well done for this vintage. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 93 JS

This is incredibly fresh and vivid with orange peel, orange blossoms, cherries and hints of rose stem. Medium-bodied with a sleek and racy palate of creamy, fine tannins and a energetic length and purity. Crunchy. 100% whole cluster. From vineyards planted in 1955. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JS

The white 2023 Micalet comes from 2.4 hectares planted in 1948 at 730 to 750 meters in altitude on the slopes of the Penya Foradà on rocky white soils with a field blend of mainly Tortosí, Trepadell, Malvasía and Merseguera. Part of the vineyard is ungrafted, and those grapes are harvested earlier, with the rest coming in some 10 days later. The must fermented in concrete egg and oak barrels with indigenous yeasts, where it matured without racking for 10 months. This year has incredible freshness, reflected by a pH of 3.07 and 6.3 grams of acidity, tension and contained ripeness as shown by the 12.5% alcohol. It’s a white of precision and elegance; it’s crystalline, seamless, ethereal and nuanced, with purity and freshness. This is vibrant, sharp and austere, chalky, mineral and saline. A Mediterranean Roulot? 2,300 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2023,Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

A tightly focused beam of bitter cherry, damson plum and raspberry coulis streams through this red, with mouthwatering cut in the form of ocean breeze minerality that runs throughout. Iris and rose hip notes fill in the background as the long, piercing finish shows a remarkably pure and unadorned feel. A high-definition Pinot. Drink now through 2035. 3,650 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2023 Pinot Noir Freestone Occidental Bodega is a well of strawberry, raspberry and blackberry, plus nuances of grapefruit, tea leaves, cola and bitters. The light-bodied palate offers crunchy, perfumed flavors framed by dusty tannins and vibrant acidity, and it has a long, latent finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2023 Langhe Bianco Dragon is mostly Chardonnay, with touches of Sauvignon Blanc, Nascetta and Riesling. Pear, white flowers and tangerine oil inflections grace this expressive, mid-weight Bianco. Creamy, silky contours wrap it all together. Baudana’s Dragon has come a long, long way in recent years.Vinous Media | 92 VM