Wine Varietals

wines

Orma, Sette Ponti’s sister estate based in Bolgheri, is – like Sette Ponti’s Oreno – Merlot-based, but it’s a different blend in a different place and, in my opinion, reaches greater heights. Spicy, brambly berry aromas with some dusty wood and chocolate notes are followed in the mouth by super-fresh acidity, introducing some ripe black fruits then a stony mid-palate. A fine web of silky tannins supports the fruit, while herbal and balsamic edges bring a sense of freshness and levity to the concentrated fruit. The finish is long, succulent and fresh, with some fresh and dried black fruits accompanied by spice and chocolate. Great balance.Decanter | 96 DECAromas of herbs such as basil and bay leaf with currants follow through to a full body with creamy and round tannins, and lots of coffee bean and walnut undertones. Chewy but not overdone. Velvety texture. Fine at the end. Drinkable but better in three to five years.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Orma is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts from the glass with bold notes of stewed black plums, boysenberry preserves, and underbrush, followed by hints of cedar chest, tar, and bay leaves. The big, concentrated, full-bodied palate packs a wallop, with bags of expressive black fruits and a grainy texture, finishing with an invigorating mineral lift.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe organic 2021 Orma pours from a chunky glass bottle. The blend is 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc (with 18 months in barrique). This wine is heady and opulent with a bouquet that delivers swells of black fruit, plum, spice and floral highlights of lilac or blue flower. These aromas are delivered in waves of varying intensity. This is a proverbial food wine that calls for a dish with a high fat content. The freshness is there, and there is considerable fruit weight to pair across from grilled lamb with mint sauce. Production is 39,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Orma is a rich, heady wine. Succulent dark red plum, spice, new leather, mocha and menthol are nicely laced together. This sumptuous, flamboyant wine offers tons of immediacy and overall appeal.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Gagliole is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s vineyards in Panzano’s famed Conca d’Oro. Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2021 captures all the natural radiance of this sector in Chianti Classico. Sumptuous red cherry fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and rose petal build as this luscious, racy Sangiovese shows off all it has to offer.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Here’s a wine that takes us to a vintage that excels in terms of general fruit clarity and precision. The 2021 Giusto di Notri is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot that ages in new oak (50% of the wine) with the other half going into second- and third-passage barrel. Intensity and depth are highlighted nicely here in a vintage that ended on October 16th (much later than 2020). This benefits complexity and aromas. The vintage also delivers more freshness and balanced tannins (without the sharper edges you get in 2020). This is a beautiful wine, one that’s set up for long cellar aging.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPIntense aromas of red currants, sweet tobacco, lead pencil, and terra-cotta. Medium to full body with polished tannins that are very well-integrated into the wine. It is racy and long with lovely mocha and subtle fruit at the end. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc and 10% merlot. Drink after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSBlack currant, blackberry, plum, violet, green olive, graphite and wild rosemary aromas and flavors are the hallmarks of this impressive red, which is lively and refreshing, with dense tannins gripping the long, oak-tinged finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038. 3,333 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot is matured in new and second-use French oak barriques for around 18 months. Leafy, herbal and spicy notes are a prelude to a core aroma of blackcurrant, cocoa and violets. In the mouth it combines bright and precise acidity with soft, voluptuous yet structured black fruits, with some juicy spiced plum, herbal bitters, chocolate and a woody presence. Fine-grained tannins grip the gums and bolster the fruit. A deliciously lively red to enjoy now or in several years.Decanter | 94 DEC

Rich cherries, cassis, fresh olives and dark spices. Svelte, fine tannins on the medium- to full-bodied palate, showing lots of juicy berries and a linear, extensive finish. Excellent length, focus and structure here. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThis is another robust wine from Tenuta Luce with immediate notes of maple syrup and brown sugar. Made with a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Sangiovese, the 2021 Lucente releases aromas of cherry cola, Tootsie Roll and toasted hazelnut. With 300,000 bottles made, you get a big and burley red wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA sweetly scented blend of wild blueberries and dusty sage gains complexity through cardamon and ground clove hints as the 2021 La Vite Lucente emerges from the glass. This is soothingly round and pure in style. A wave of ripe red and blue fruits easily wash across the palate, leaving a tactile mineral tinge and spice. Fine tannins frame the finish without slowing its momentum, and the 2021 tapers off long and staining with a steely minerality that lingers. The Lucente is a blend of Merlot and Sangiovese geared toward early consumption.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Super-restrained nose here with candied lemon and lemon bush, tuberose, peach kernel and integrated toastiness. Full body with amazing weight and concentration, yet with vibrant, lemony flavor, zesty and integrated acidity and a warming but balanced finish. Drinkable now, but with aging potential of more than 10 years.James Suckling | 97 JSFor the first time, Ornellaia Bianco becomes a Bolgheri DOC wine in the 2021 vintage. It’s again 100% Sauvignon Blanc, vinfied in a mixture of 300L and 500L amphorae, barriques and tonneaux, with only 25% new wood. Perfumed, exotic, stony and honeyed, it’s nonetheless a vertical and focussed wine, its structure constraining rich aromas and flavours of mango, peach, white flowers, orange peel, papaya and passion fruit. It does feel like it’s being held back, with a touch of austerity and that stony, mineral authority that makes it a necessity to drink with food. ‘It has much more vibrancy than in the past...a better defined character than when the project began,’ notes Marco Balsimelli.Decanter | 96 DECPreviously a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, the Ornellaia 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is now all Sauvignon Blanc. The estate recently planted Semillon, so it is possible that we will one day see that grape in the blend (especially because it is known to thrive in hot vintages). This wine plays its best cards in terms of texture. It sports broad shoulders and enough texture to support those many creamy citrus and delicately tropical flavors. A dusting of crushed stone adds elegance. The wine should show its best results in five to 10 years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is alluring. I sense a bit more textural richness vis-à-vis prior editions, a positive in my book. White pear, jasmine, sage, mint, white pepper, peach and apricot fill out the layers. Light tropical accents appear with some aeration, adding a tropical flair that is quite attractive. This is impeccably done.Vinous Media | 95 VMVerging on creamy in texture, this silky white features floral, peach, sage and mint flavors, with a flash of grapefruit pith. Complex, balanced and long, with a salty component on the persistent aftertaste. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Badia a Passignano is one of the best editions of this wine I have ever tasted. Ripe blue-toned fruit, spice, chocolate, leather and licorice fill out the layers in an ample, full-bodied Gran Selezione. Here, too, changes in vinification and aging yielded a wine that marries refinement with textural resonance. Superb.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe Badia a Passignano vineyards, close to the Tenuta Tignanello estate, lie at an altitude of between 250 and 300 metres above sea level and are surrounded by 600-metre high hills to the east and southwest, which form a protective amphitheatre. This area is described by Antinori as a ‘geographical liaison between the UGA of San Casciano and the UGA of Panzano’. It has a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and summers that remain fresh and well ventilated. This in turn encourages a longer, slower ripening season. The 2021 has some notes of green herb as well as bitter cherry, orange zest and sweet vanilla. There is a touch of forest greenness and a balsamic note, as well as spicy black pepper. On the palate the tannins are firm, upright and assertive but always refined. There is a beautiful soft, enveloping texture and weight, and the acidity gives mouthwatering freshness on the finish. It is a little oak-dominant at present, but is still young and needs time. A beautifully made wine that expresses a strong identity.Decanter | 95 DECI had previously reviewed this vintage closer to its commercial release. Tasted seven months later, the Marchesi Antinori 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Badia a Passignano has fleshed out nicely and has successfully shedded its oak signature. What you get now is a pretty mouthful of rich, ripe black fruits with background notes of green spice and smoked bacon. There is a hint of fragrant rose that emerges beautifully at one specific point a few minutes in. This expression from the San Donato in Poggio UGA delivers bright and lively fruit overall. With a storied winemaking tradition and first produced in 1988, you could say that this wine is the control sample against which the three new UGA expressions are measured.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA deep well of cherry, pomegranate, iron, tobacco and wild herb aromas and flavors highlights this intense red, while a dense layer of tannins provides support. Lively acidity drives the lingering aftertaste of fruit, mineral and herb notes. Best from 2026 through 2043. 12,250 cases made, 833 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS