Wine Varietals

wines

The 2023 Les Boucauds is a rounded, full style from a clay-chalk parcel. This is open and approachable from the off, with a touch of alcohol-tinged heat. The richness of the clay provided a sense of volume on the palate but it’s not loud. There’s lovely richness of texture after spending 14-16 months on lees. The 2023 has fine talc and floral perfume lingering on the long finish.Vinous Media | 92 VMA richly styled version, with hints of warm hay and beeswax atop a core of apple and preserved lemon. Waxy in feel, with real weight to the lush palate. Savory, succulent acidity slices through, maintaining balance and tension. Delicious through the long, mineral-rich, salty finish, where there’s a hint of blanched almond. Drink now through 2030. 3,500 cases made, 700 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Delicate and floral in the glass, the 2023 Rosé Château de Selle Cru Classé wafts up with a captivating blend of freshly sliced nectarines, minty herbs, peach sorbet and wet stone. This is seamlessly silky and serene, focused on purity, with ripe orchard fruits and candied lime motivated by a core of tantalizing acidity. It’s potent and long, with a spicy flourish of ginger and citrus while leaving a sweet herbal tinge that lingers on and on. The 2023 Château de Selle is simply stunning. - Eric GuidoVinous Media | 93 VMBright and vivid nose with strawberries, dried raspberries, cherry blossoms and a light, spicy undertone. Medium-bodied, round-textured and lengthy with lots of energy and a crisp, mineral backbone. Round and textural finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSThe nose of this wine is high intensity, with candied peach bursting out of the glass. The palate is in perfect balance, tart flavors of apple and grapefruit play off of the bitter grapefruit leading into the superlong finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEDense and complex, this ultra-pale version starts off a bit closed before opening up to reveal apple blossom, crunchy nectarine and pear flavors cut with notes of crushed flint, while a thread of salty, smoky dried green herbs cruises through. Creamy and refined, this is drinkable and delicious. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2028. 11,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2023 Clos des Chevaliers from Domaine Chartron was one of the most brilliant wines I tasted during my entire nearly three weeks in the cellars here in Burgundy. The wine is utterly brilliant on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet offering up a pure, beautifully complex and elegant blend of apple, pear, fresh almond, crème pâtissière, a complex foundation of limestone minerality, lemon blossoms, a refined framing of vanillin oak and a topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and seamlessly balanced, with a great spine of acidity, a gorgeous core of fruit, great mineral drive and cut and a very, very long, vibrant finish. Pure magic. (Drink between 2030 - 2075)John Gilman | 98 JGThe delicious Clos du Chevalier is the top wine in the Chartron cellar, boasting intense aromas of lemon peel, mandarin and passionfruit, with nuances of acacia flower and a pronounced saline minerality. The texture is lively and vibrant but rich as well, with a superb balance between the extract and the racy acidity. The clos, a former monopole of the Chartron family, is above the Montrachet from Marquis de Laguiche; although they sold 0.16ha to Lalou Bize-Leroy for its Domaine d’Auvenay, Chartron still owns a half-hectare of Chevalier here. Cellar this for at least a decade before opening.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru is Charton’s best Grand Cru this year. Intense and flattering citrus fruit notes commingle with crushed stone and light undergrowth scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is fresh, vibrant, beautifully balanced and very harmonious with a long and tender finish. Cohesive and multi-layered, très bon vin!Vinous Media | 95-97 VMAn attractive pale colour with a lime streak. Pure and stylish on the nose, with the white limestone feel of classic Chevalier. The bouquet will express itself more later on, I suspect. On the palate, the terroir also reverberates, with a very fine-boned acidity alongside the nuanced white fruit and flowers, with just a little well-judged oak bringing up the rear. A high-class finish. Very distinguished. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMA markedly more floral-suffused nose speaks of distinctly cool white orchard fruit aromas, mineral reduction, Asian-style tea and a lovely range of spice nuances. The gorgeously textured and notably denser medium weight plus flavors exude a prominent stoniness on the sappy bitter citrus-tined finale that goes on and on. Like the Clos du Cailleret, the mouthfeel is like sucking on a small pebble and overall, this superb Chevalier should amply reward extended cellaring.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Fantastic depth and length to this wine, showing aromas and flavors of sliced apples, stone, flint,matchstick and white pepper. It’s full-bodied and reserved, with very fine layers of bright fruit and minerals. Tight, structured and compact with a long finish. Already impressive, but best after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSOpulent, creamy and expansive, this white fills the mouth, offering peach, apple, quinine and salty mineral flavors embraced by vanilla and toasty oak notes. There’s a tactile sensation, and this still lacks integration, yet all of the components are there, along with power and length. Best from 2027 through 2042. 3,800 cases made, 1,400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSLatour’s 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of pear, mandarin oil and peach mingled with notes of struck match and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it’s rich and textural, with a sweet, layered core of fruit and an expansive finish. Now bottled under Diam, it should age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPCool, pretty and attractively layered aromas include those of Granny Smith apple, spice, wet stone and a plentitude of citrus elements. There is both more volume and richness to the bigger-bodied flavors that exhibit good power on the balanced, sappy and moderately firm finale. This also could use better depth but that should develop in time.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The nose offers citrus zest, stone fruit and fresh florals, layered with hints of blackcurrant leaf and a cool, chalky minerality. With some air, creamy and spiced notes begin to emerge, adding quiet complexity. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and precise - bright, mouthwatering acidity keeps things lively, while the mineral backbone carries through to a clean, lingering finish. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 93+ SP

The nose is aromatic and layered - grapefruit, white peach and ripe pear alongside acacia blossom and a thread of fresh herbs. There’s a gentle flinty quality underneath that speaks clearly to the limestone soils. On the palate, it’s round and textured from extended lees aging, yet kept honest by a vivid, focused acidity. The finish is long and mineral, with a lingering herbal lift that keeps you reaching for another sip.Sokolin Tasting Panel | 95 SP

The killer 2023 Condrieu La Doriane boasts gorgeous orange blossom, honeyed flowers, toasted spice, and grilled peach aromatics that build incrementally with time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, focused, and pure, this brilliant effort spent 9 months in 100% new French oak and represents the crème de la crème of the vintage. I’d recommend drinking bottles over the coming 7-8 years, although it will keep longer. Drink 2025-2033.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDHow can you resist the fresh honeycomb, honeysuckle and toasted brioche aromas and controlled extravagance of this high-end Condrieu? Rich stone fruit aromas on the expansive, medium- to full-bodied palate, where the freshness of the vintage deftly lifts the long, generous finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSMatured for 9 months in 100% new French oak, the 2023 Condrieu La Doriane takes off with toasty subtleties, mingling pristine white peach, apricot and jasmine with a touch of honeysuckle. Packing elevated flavor concentration on the dense palate, the 2023 is an outgoing, articulate La Doriane. Round and complex, it walks off the stage with a touch of lemon flesh and wet stone on the long, nuanced finish.Vinous Media | 94 VM

This is a blend of Le Charlemagne, and Hautes Mourottes, which from 2024 Pierre-François will make separately, calling the former Charlemagne and the latter Corton-Charlemagne. In 2023 there are eight barrels worth, made in two new barrels, two older barrels and a concrete egg. These have been racked to tank since just after the harvest. Pale in colour, stony with a little toast also. Crisp white orchard fruit with a little flesh behind, and good tension. Nicely balanced at 13.5% alcohol. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JM

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village presents a pretty nose with a mixture of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit. Well defined with nicely integrated oak, it conveys a sense of transparency. Fine tannins frame the palate, offering raspberry and strawberry fruit with a dash of spice on the finish, which is more structured than I expected. Delightful.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries, spices and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural palate. Lively and mouthwatering, it’s an especially charming, giving vintage of the Dugat village bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPA slightly riper nose freely offers up its array of plum, dark currant and more prominent earth influence. There is more size and weight, if not necessary better density, to the sappy, dusty and complex finale that is noticeably firmer. This is a lovely Gevrey villages and worth considering.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Aromas of cherries, raspberries, smoke and spices introduce the 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, a medium to full-bodied, pure and layered wine with a fleshy core of fruit, sweet tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mineral finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru has an elegant bouquet that gains intensity in the glass: black cherry, raspberry and light floral scents of peony and rose petal, all finely delineated. The palate is very silky on the entry with good grip, a little sweeter than the previous vintage, with touches of cassis infusing the red fruit. This builds nicely in the mouth through a slightly confit-like finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA subtle but not invisible application of wood frames the more elegant and slightly cooler nose of newly turned earth, essence of red berries and crushed anise character. The palate feel of the medium weight flavors is also supple but punchy with excellent delineation on the impressively long, youthfully austere and well-balanced finale. This too is worth a look.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie shows a patina of new oak on the nose (30%), though it combines with the lifted raspberry and blueberry fruit. It is showier than the Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied and harmonious with good weight. There are fine "shoulders" here with a similarly peppery finish to the Village, but this will need a couple of years in bottle to assimilate the wood.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie opens in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries, vine smoke and spices. Medium to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s lively and concentrated, with a more muscular, structured profile than the blended Gevrey bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPFirm reduction presently renders the nose impossible to read. More interesting are the supple but punchy medium-bodied flavors that possess good detail and slightly better mid-palate density while delivering solid power on the rustic, serious and firmer finale. This is very Gevrey in character and at least some patience would be a good idea and overall, this too is a very good villages.Burghound | 89-91 BH

I have always liked the Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine bottling from Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, as this is one of the more limestone-defined cuvées in their fine lineup. The 2023 is no exception, as this is a lovely wine, offering up a bright and classic nose of apple, nectarine, chalky soil tones, orange zest and a topnote of spring flowers. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and nicely racy out of the blocks, with a good core, fine mineral undertow and lovely balance on the long and complex finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2025 - 2037)John Gilman | 91 JGFrom foudre. This one had finished fermenting. Mid lemon yellow a mix of apples and pears on the nose. More generous than usual but still with its more typical white fruit with some minerals. Fine length. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Mar 2024.Jasper Morris | 88-90 JM

The les Maranches bottling is made from a nice blend of older and younger vines, with half planted in 1977 and half in 1999. The younger vines always seem to contribute a nice sensation of fruit energy to the wine and the 2023 shows this beautifully, as it delivers a vibrant bouquet of peach, apple, a touch of hazelnut, a good base of soil, dried flowers and a whisper of oak from the foudres in which the wine is raised. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and nicely succulent at the core, with a good foundation of soil tones, sound acids, fine focus and a long, classy and very nicely balanced finish. (Drink between 2025 - 2035)John Gilman | 91 JGThe Uchizy has fallen clear, with a lemon and lime colour. Pure clear and chiselled, less evidently 2023, a little reduction, then the muscatty component arrives behind. Long, refined and not too fleshy. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JM

There is good Chablis typicity present in the form of iodine, seashore and petrol along with citrus zest top notes. The delicious, vibrant and precise middle weight flavors flash good minerality on the clean, dry and saline-inflected finish. This is very good for its level and worth considering.Burghound | 89-91 BHThe 2023 Chablis Village was assembled for my visit by Didier Picq from 10 vats. It has an attractive if light bouquet with apple blossom and fresh pear aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little creaminess towards the finish. This will drink well for 4-6 years.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMBlend made up. Fresh pale yellow, immediate energy on the nose, this keeps growing in the glass, with good tension, even a little pleasing bitterness at the finish. Very promising. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Jul 2024.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM

This has quite some power and concentration for a regular Sancerre. Medium- to full-bodied thanks to the pronounced tannins, but this is still bright and refreshing thanks to the animating wet-stone freshness in the long, compact finish. Plenty of yellow grapefruit aromas and flavors, with a touch of yellow bell peppers. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

Tiny touch of rose gold to the yellow colour. Spiced pink grapefruit aromas lead to a silky and smooth palate that’s very elegant. There’s some lovely acidity, and a deep, saline, tense finish that has great length. The oak works well, it doesn’t occlude the fruit and freshness. Wonderful stuff. Fermented and aged in new oak barriques.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECAll Clairette Rose and vinified and aged nine months in 100% new French oak barrels, the 2024 Châteauneuf Du Pape Chapelle Blanc displays a medium gold hue and has fabulous notes of ripe orchard fruits, brioche, caramelized orange, and spice. It’s medium to full-bodied, round, concentrated, and textured on the palate, with ample mid-palate depth and volume, a great mouthfeel, and outstanding length. With roughly 166 cases produced, it’s up with the crème de la crème in the vintage and will keep for 10-15 years if well stored. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDNotes of herbs, confit citrus and spices preface the 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, a medium- to full-bodied, round and sappy wine with a juicy, enveloping mid-palate that lead to a fresh, mouthwatering finish. This is a blend of 40% Clairette Rose, 40% Grenache Blanc and 20% Roussanne.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2024 Rosé Château Romassan is a wine of supreme textural finesse and elegance. Beautifully weighted, broad and nearly opulent, yet in no way heavy, the 2024 drapes a blanket of floral-inflected orchard fruit across the tongue, coating every corner of the mouth through the long, focused finish. Rosewater, orange confit and a tickle of sea salt last well after the wine has exited the stage. This is such an intentional Rosé made with the highest level of craftsmanship. I wouldn’t hesitate to age this Bandol for a few years to allow even further complexity to develop. Bravo.Vinous Media | 94 VMIntense aromas of peach and the ocean, this rosé is bright with fruit but also rich with minerality. The palate is immediately spicy and robust. Tons of minerality with great texture and a lingering heat. Pair with Bouillabaisse.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA sophisticated, polished Bandol, with a seductive, juicy palate that’s all rounded off. Hums with vivid energy behind its notes of melon and garrigue. Cool stone minerality lines the finish, which is focused and mouthwateringly long. Delicious and just beginning to unfurl. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now through 2029. 2,806 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2024 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a delectable nose not dissimilar to the Criots this year, beautifully defined with hints of oyster shell surfacing with time, quite Zen-like but paradoxically conveying real presence. The palate is very well balanced with wonderful poise. Impressive depth and concentration considering the growing season with a sprightly finish that fans out in a cool, calm and collected fashion. This is an excellent Bâtard-Montrachet that has its nose in front of the Criots.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

The 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroye 1er Cru has a clean, fresh bouquet with simmering mineralité that comes through with time, a little Puligny-like in style. The palate is well balanced, the one-third new oak neatly integrated, not a powerful Chassagne but there is a sense of nervosité that runs through this wine that I appreciate.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2024 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a delightful bouquet with crushed stone infusing the bright citrus fruit, tightly coiled but opening with time in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite saline in the mouth with oyster shell on the weighty finish. There is real weight and presence here. No wonder it has the highest sugar level among all the Domaine’s cuvées - the power is palpable in this Criots.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

Offers tension and grip, a slow unroll, reserved at first but as it opens you get luscious white peach and pear fruits, along with elderflower and apple blossom florals. Great stuff from this lovely structure-driven white wine. 50% new oak. 3.12 pH.Jane Anson | 94 JAJust bottled, the 2024 Blanc de Lynch Bages is a gorgeous, refreshing dry white to drink now and over the next handful of years. Lemon peel, white pepper, mint and chalky undertones are beautifully delineated. There’s a bit more Muscadelle in this year’s blend, but that is not especially apparent. Instead, Sauvignon Blanc drives the feel here.Vinous Media | 93 VMGreat aromatics. Quite varietal on the nose, green apple, peas, elderflower, white peach and some bitter orange rind. Bright and forward, this is crisp with a shot of lemon acidity at first before settling and becoming a bit more creamy with gentle bitter edges. Jasmine, white flowers, some white stone fruit and soft creamy citrus elements. A touch waxy too. Light, elegant, nothing too much here but super easy to drink with hints of interest. Ageing 50% new oak for 6 months in barrels on lees. 3.12pH.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECQuite a fresh, lively white with aromas of bright gooseberries, green guavas, fresh mangoes and creamy stone fruit. Crisp and bright, with very good acidity and a long,linear, refreshing finish. There’s a touch of salinity at the end. 77% sauvignon blanc, 12% muscadelle and 11% semillon. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSShoots from the glass with vivacious notes of green apples, white peaches, and fresh pears, leading to hints of lime leaves and sea spray. The light-bodied palate is crisp and refreshing with loads of chalk-laced orchard fruit flavors and a zesty finish.The Wine Palate | 91 TWPShoots from the glass with vivacious notes of green apples, white peaches, and fresh pears, leading to hints of lime leaves and sea spray. The light-bodied palate is crisp and refreshing with loads of chalk-laced orchard fruit flavors and a zesty finish.The Wine Independent | 91 TWIThe 2024 Château Lynch-Bages Blanc should certainly be outstanding. It plays in the fresh, focused, medium-bodied style of the vintage while bringing ripe melon, pink grapefruit, and floral aromas and flavors. It has nicely integrated, juicy acidity, and a balanced, lengthy mouthfeel.Jeb Dunnuck | 90-92 JD

The concentrated exotic fruit aromas of this wine range from passionfruit and kiwi to gooseberry, with accents of acacia flower, spice and smoke. The texture strikes a beautiful balance between lively, fresh acidity and substantial extract, lingering exquisitely on the palate. The grapes are from just over a hectare of vines planted at the northern end of Les Pucelles, including a sliver of the Clos des Meix, which mainly belongs to Domaine Leflaive. This powerful wine should last 30 years at least.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2024 Clos de la Pucelle is a brilliant wine in the making. The wine’s aromatic constellation is elegant and complex, delivering scents of pear, golden delicious apple, lemon zest, crème pâtissière, apple blossoms, vanillin oak and a stunning foundation of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp, complex and utterly refined in personality, with a beautiful core of succulent fruit, even better backend mineral drive, vibrant acids and a very long, seamlessly balanced and youthfully complex finish. This is a brilliant premier cru in the making, but it will demand some cellaring time to blossom properly. (Drink between 2030-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGFresh lemon yellow with a green tint, rather more backward on the nose. Still working itself out. There is more structure here but less appeal in youth. The Clos de la Pucelle offers good tension, but this will take time. I am not yet seeing the electric backbone that this wine can have. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle 1er Cru was coming out to play when I visited the Domaine, the nose obstinate and backward. The palate is crisp on the entry, quite malic with cooking apple and notes of pear, moderate depth and a dash of spice on the finish. Fine, but it needs to find its groove.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Jean-Michel Chartron is lucky to have old vines in his parcel of Folatières as well, as these vines are now sixty years of age. They have produced a beautiful wine in 2024, delivering a bright, complex and very floral nose of apple, pear, almond, chalky soil tones, vanillin oak and a beautiful mélange of honeysuckle and white lilies in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, complex and full-bodied, with a gorgeous core of pure fruit, lovely soil signature, great acids and a very long, impeccably balanced and transparent finish. This is outstanding young Folatières! (Drink between 2026-2055)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2024 Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières 1er Cru has a very fragrant bouquet with yellow fruit, white flowers, a touch of mint and even a suggestion of red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a keen line of acidity. Very precise, certainly more mineral-driven than the "sunnier" 2023 - this has great potential.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMMid lemon yellow. The bouquet suggests optimum ripeness, though picked among the first. Apples in their prime, with ripe lemons in support, graceful and relatively full on the palate. All nicely proportioned to make a quality Folatières. A decent sized cuvée too, with 8.5 barrels. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Oct 2025.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

This wine showcases enticing aromas of ripe stone fruit, summer berries and delicate rose. On the palate, vibrant notes of raspberry and ripe cherry bring warm, sun-kissed flavors, complemented by balanced acidity and a satisfying weight. Best enjoyed between 2025 and 2028.Sokolin Tasting Panel | 92+ SP

A well-rounded, focused and delicious rosé showing dried raspberries, frozen strawberries and mild spices on the nose. Medium-bodied with bright acidity. Balanced and driven, with a lively center palate and a persistent, flavorful finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS