Wine Varietals

wines

The Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione shows macerated aromas of cherry skin with a punchy, almost carbonic-adjacent quality that gives vibrancy and energy to the bouquet. Fruit comes from a site with lots of rocks and rich limestone soils. The bouquet starts off with tart pomegranate or rainier cherry, delivered with pinpoint directness, and then opens to embrace softer tones of underbrush, toasted fennel seed and cumin. The oak is almost invisible, although you do feel the enriched texture and the wine’s powdery tannins. The wine ends on a glossy note, but ultimately those tannins do stick around and you feel them for a long while.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAlso expressive, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Piaggione is ruby with a magenta tinge and offers notes of raspberry liqueur, violets, and polished wood spices. Refined with fine tannins and a very balanced texture, it’s velvety and has a long finish. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDCamphor, dark culinary spice, fragrant purple flower and a whiff of forest floor greet the nose on the compelling 2019 Salicutti Piaggione. It’s full-bodied and loaded with finesse, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, licorice, almond liqueur and blood orange before an almost salty finish. Polished tannins keep it smooth. A fantastic wine. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Piaggione vineyard is characteristic of southeast Montalcino. Rising steeply from 380 to 450 metres, it is bathed in the morning sun and caressed by winds from Monte Amiata. As it tends to give the estate’s most muscular wines, it was typically bottled as a Riserva before the estate changed hands. This 2019 is deceptively easygoing at first, with very lifted lavender and violet aromas that echo on the sweet-fruited palate. With time in the glass, however, its serious side is revealed as balsamic herbs and earthy undertones join the floral top notes. The palate tightens up as brisk acidity accentuates the dense, chewy tannins, and stony minerals build through the dark cherry core.Decanter | 95 DECPeppery roses and lavender slowly give way to crushed wild berries and tangerine as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione dazzles the senses. This is a model of purity, with racy acidity and cool-toned minerality setting the stage for its crisp red and blue fruits. A web of fine-grained tannins slowly saturates the palate. The 2019 finishes classically dry and firm while leaving tart raspberry and licorice to linger. There’s an exoticism to the 2019 Piaggione that I find wildly attractive.Vinous Media | 94 VMAl-dente fruit comes through on the nose, with fresh cherries and flowers, following through to a medium body with firm, silky tannins. Tight and focused with spices, stones and berries at the end. A little reductive. Built for aging. From organically grown grapes. Needs three or four years to open and come around. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is youthfully inward and darkly floral with an herbal tinge and hints of crushed ashen stone that give way to vivid black raspberry and exotic spice. This is juicy and spry, with racy cherry-berry fruit and stimulating acidity that creates a sensation of boundless energy, even as a saturation of primary concentration settles in toward the close. The 2019 finishes with incredible length and youthful tension, leaving balsamic spice, sage and licorice notes lingering over a bed of dusty tannins.Vinous Media | 97 VMBaricci shines with this stunning 2019, from the estate’s south- to southeast-facing plots at 300 metres on the Montosoli hill. It is still far too young, but everything is in place for a long and gratifying life. Preliminary cedar and vanillin nuances melt into sumptuous cherry, and there’s a pronounced stony, mineral edge along with juicy blood orange to impart further intricacy. Refined and graceful with layered substance, it has long, chalky, perfectly ‘al dente’ tannins and sappy, mouthwatering acidity.Decanter | 97 DECBaricci’s wines are some of the most distinctive and elegant in the appellation. Showing medium-rich concentration, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli delivers granite, slate, black cherry and dark currant in one very impactful dollop. The fruit condition is excellent, with a little under-ripeness that bodes well for the wine’s longevity. Montosoli has a bigger presence in the mouth compared to most, thanks to the pronounced mineral nuances, but the wine remains elegant throughout and especially on the mid-palate. Fruit for this wine comes from the estate’s oldest vines, aged 25 to 40 years old, in soils rich in marl, quartz, schist and marine fossils. Production is 16,560 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPRaised in 40 hl Slavonian oak barrels, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Montosoli was just recently botted and will need several months more before drinking. Medium ruby-colored, with notes of dark cherries and a sunny but pure feel, it also takes on notes of crushed rocks, and I like the mineral flourish here. Rounded and pure, with great freshness, a clean finish, and even acidity, it’s an inviting wine with a wide drinking window of 10-12 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JD

The beautiful 2019 Brunello Ugolforte from San Giorgio is elegantly structured and delicious. Showing the intensity of the vintage but also restraint, it delivers juicy raspberry, steeped cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside smooth, velvety tannins. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: N/A Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte opens with a minty freshness as flint stone and dusty rose give way to crushed cherries. Silky and pliant, this possesses an elegance not often seen, with violet and lavender tones accentuating its polished red and blue fruits. This tapers off with sweet tannins balanced by an orange hint. A structured yet mouth-watering sensation lingers on. What a beauty this is.Vinous Media | 94 VMFrom the sister property of Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio Ugolforte’s 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino takes a youthful ruby hue and is a riper style of Brunello, with rounded aromas of black raspberries, candied violets, sweet cedar, and fresh Mediterranean herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with ripe tannins and retains good freshness through its long finish. A lovely Brunello with a more rounded and approachable feel, it’s going to show at its best over the coming 12-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCherry and berry aromas with hints of sandalwood follow through to a medium body with integrated tannins that are fine and focused. Silky texture. Delicious finish. Very elegant with nice structure. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.James Suckling | 94 JSThere is deep black fruit and black plum on the San Giorgio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte. although it takes a little patience to get there. The wine is restrained or closed initially, and it’s hard to draw anything out for the first 15 minutes or so after the bottle is opened. Once it gets going, you are treated to sweet cherry, redwood, almond biscotti and dried rose potpourri. It ages in large Slavonian oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPFrom 25-year-old vines on steep stony slopes in Montalcino’s southeast. As with its sister Brunello from Poggio di Sotto, San Giorgio sees a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and long maceration. Aromas are dominated by oily herbs like winter mint, rosemary and sage at this early stage. Robust and broad, this emphasises vigour over finesse but is packed with personality. Spice and chocolate join balsamic nuances on a backdrop of glossy and concentrated dark red cherry. The tannic grip gives quite a tactile experience.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows delicate aromas of blue flower, redcurrant, cranberry and potting soils. It has all the basic components of a classic Sangiovese. Fruit is sourced from across the estate vineyard holdings ranging from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, or the ceiling of the appellation. Baking spice is delivered to the palate with silky, almost glossy tannins. The mouthfeel is extremely fine. This is a very Burgundian Brunello, with 38,500 bottles made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA beautiful cologne lifts from the glass of the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino, which pours a red/orange-tinged color. Aromas of wild cherries, truffles, bittersweet chocolate, and dried orange peel are followed by a medium to full-bodied red with fine, coiled tannins, a linear feel, and refreshing lift all the way through the finish. I love the tertiary notes that come through, and this wine will only improve and gain in complexity over time. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, dusty and floral, with depths of dark red fruit and exotic spice. This is silky smooth with medium-bodied textures and vibrant acidity that propels its tart wild berry fruits and mineral tones as rosy inner florals race across the palate. It tapers off with admirable length and concentration. Crunchy tannins frame the experience without slowing its momentum. The 2019 is a gorgeous blend of vintage and house style. Don’t miss it.Vinous Media | 93 VMRiccardo Campinoti’s estate Brunello is as much a panorama of the Montalcino zone as it is a demonstration of his approach. The sum of fruit from diverse plots in both cooler and warmer corners, it sports Le Ragnaie’s signature tautness. Delicately fragrant, the nose hints at game meat then transitions to brushwood, rosehip and alpine blossoms. Decidedly midweight, the cranberry and redcurrant core is all cinched in. Bright acidity and firm, crisp tannins provide a solid framework. This needs another year in bottle to reveal its depths.Decanter | 92 DEC

This wine kisses the sky with fruit from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at the highest point of the appellation (above 600 meters in elevation). This is a wine to watch in the future, especially as these vines grow older. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento has a fine and direct bouquet with vibrant red fruit, cranberry, pressed rose and rosemary blossom. Fruit and floral components run very strong, and you don’t get as much of the earthiness that we find in the other wines. Instead, it feels mineral and salty. Crunchy fruit and powdery tannins fuel a very long and polished finish with a contained 13.5% alcohol content. This wine is fluid and more of a shape-shifter. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTo close out the single vineyard wines, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Passo Del Lume Spento takes a youthful red/garnet-tinged color and, as with the rest of the wines of this vintage from Le Ragnaie, has a signature stamp of incredible perfume lifting from the glass out of the gate, with notes fresh Mediterranean herbs, ripe cherries, anise, and crushed rose petals. Ripe citrus-toned fruit fills the palate of this medium-bodied Brunello, which has great mouthwatering acidity that floats through the sides of the palate, angular tannins, and a mineral-toned finish. It’s packed with tension, though, and is deserving of another year or two of cellaring before drinking 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento opens with a mentholated freshness, as crushed stone and minty herbs complicate dusty dried strawberries. This is juicy in character and wickedly fresh, showing its minerality up front as a tart wave of wild berries descends upon the palate. It finishes with cheek-puckering tension, potent and primary, along with a coating of fine-grained tannins, all balanced by a bump of residual acidity. This is a spice bomb, yet it has the energy to balance. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at 621 meters.Vinous Media | 94 VMCampinoti’s highest altitude single-vineyard bottling comes from a one-hectare plot planted in 2011 at a lofty 621 metres. The third release as a Brunello, it hits its stride with the 2019 vintage. While still reserved in aromas, this sings with inner mouth perfumes of white blossom and rose against a backdrop of sour red cherry and pomegranate. The mouth-cleansing tannins are linear, and brisk acidity whisks the wine across the palate. Slender but not bony, this has sufficient flesh to harmonise the structure. Really quite thrilling in its sinewy, chiselled personality.Decanter | 94 DEC

The character of this wine is more accessible and open-knit. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso is less ethereal but more grounded, with an obvious delivery of fruit (and more primary intensity) framed by caramel, light tobacco leaf, redcurrant, cherry and wild plum. An herbal element comes forward too with white pepper and something fun that recalls cashew celery root. The mouthfeel veers toward chalky, and there is a hint of minerality with wet limestone or rose quartz. It shows managed tannins over mid-weight texture for a very elegant finish. These qualities give this 3,000-bottle release reasonable runway to age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe fourth vintage for this single vineyard, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Petroso takes a medium red color and has a gorgeous aromatic profile in its perfume of jasmine, dried cranberries, tangerine, and thyme. Displaying a Burgundian aesthetic, this medium-bodied Brunello has refined tannins, even, fresh acidity, and a delicate stony texture. It’s a beautiful wine that gently floats off the palate. With a wide drinking window, this is going to be one that’s hard to hold onto, but it will be worth cellaring. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso boasts a dark, rich, inviting blend of black raspberries, mint leaves and worn leather. Silky-smooth and elegant in feel, this easily flows across the palate, showcasing crisp red berry fruit enlivened by vibrant acidity. A wall of grippy tannins lingers as the 2019 tapers off primary and intense, promising many years of further development. I expect the Petroso to put on weight over time, which will complete this otherwise gorgeous wine. The potential here is incredibly high.Vinous Media | 95 VMFrom a 1 hectare, northwest facing plot, Petroso sits just below the Pietroso and Il Palazzone estates at an altitude of 500 metres. Surrounded by forests, it is a relatively cool site that was originally bottled as a cru Rosso. Compared to the cask sample I tried in 2022, the 2019 has shut down since bottling. The nose does show smoke, flint and pepper while the palate has just a suggestion of wild strawberry. With seemingly more structure than flesh at this point, tannins come across as slightly terse and austere. Another year or two in bottle will give a better indication of how it is resolving.Decanter | 92 DEC

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC

The Casanova di Neri 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows thick fruit fabric with stitchings of underbrush, pressed rose, bright cherry, tobacco and balanced oak spice. This wine definitely has a special groove. It offers a ripe, round texture with good acidity followed by fine, chalky tannins. This is impressive quality for 109,600 bottles produced. In fact, this is one of the best village Brunellos from Giacomo Neri and his family made so far.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of ripe cherry fruit is complemented by woodsy, mushroom, iron, spice and saline flavors in this intense red, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Though balanced, this could benefit from a few more years to really hit its sweet spot. Best from 2026 through 2042. 9,133 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSPouring a rich red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino White Label takes on layered, savory aromas of leather, tobacco leaf, dried cherries, mocha, and a light rustic quality, although it’s very well-balanced. Medium to full-bodied, it’s pure and energetic, with rich, ripe concentration and ripe tannins. It’s approachable now and is a great entry into the vintage, with accessibility high since about 100,000 bottles were produced. It’s also a great value. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JDRedcurrants and lavender followed by layers of dried herbs and spices. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate with chewy tannins. Persistent long finish with some citrusy undertones. Yet young, healthy and concentrated. Very attractive now and in the future.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia shows beautiful minerality with dusty notes of crushed limestone or flint. This is the wine’s special signature, and it shines through in a warm vintage such as this. Rancia also offers an upfront quality of red and purple fruit tones. The 2020 vintage displays pretty concentration and richness with wild cherry and plum, but ultimately the wine leaves you with that elegant mineral sendoff. Rancia will require extra bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPIntense, with complex flavors of cherry, blackberry, violet, mineral and leafy underbrush, this red is silky and verges on racy. Harmonious and persistent, with a long, resonant aftertaste that echoes red fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,100 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA polished and very refined Rancia with sweet berries, cedar and hints of chocolate. Medium body. Fresh and focused. A little reserved at the end. It needs two or three years to come around. Best in 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe nose is a garden, with aromas of potting soil, herbs, roses and violet, but also has undertones of flint and pepper that provide an edge. Cherries and tart blackberries headline the palate, but a chalky, iron-rich earthiness carries over from the nose and dominates the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEMade since 1983, Fèlsina’s historic Riserva is a selection from the estate’s sunbathed six-hectare Rancia site. As always, it matures in barriques, 50% of which are new. The just released 2020 is particularly oak-driven: cedar and vanilla mingle with sage and grilled thyme. There’s ample fruit depth and concentration to flesh out the wood frame; tangy cherries are accented with baked earth and smoke. Grainy tannins start firm yet smooth, though they dry out on the finish.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2020 Gagliole, 100% Sangiovese from estate vineyards in Panzano, is fabulous. Rich and ample, the 2020 possesses remarkable breadth and textural intensity. All the elements are so well balanced. Cedar, pipe tobacco, mint, dried flowers and mocha all build as the 2020 shows off its class. Pretty floral and saline accents extend the finish.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is a very special organic wine made exclusively with Sangiovese from Panzano in Chianti from 15- to 30-year-old vines. Compared to the other releases in this portfolio, the Gagliole 2020 Gagliole delivers the goods up front with immediate fruit intensity and aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry. This wine sports a bright and lively personality with a soft texture and pretty layers of sweet fruit. You get a lot of good food-pairing potential out of this bottle, whether it be with grilled meat or pasta. Exactly 5,748 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is complex with aromas of ripe black cherries, blackberries, dried spicy herbs, cedar, graphite and seashells. Full-bodied, firm and structured with finely polished, well-integrated tannins that keep building on the palate, framing the deep dark fruit and pushing the length of the wine. An array of pure fruit, spices and minerals on the palate. Very attractive and pristine. Tense and balanced. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2021 Gagliole is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s vineyards in Panzano’s famed Conca d’Oro. Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2021 captures all the natural radiance of this sector in Chianti Classico. Sumptuous red cherry fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and rose petal build as this luscious, racy Sangiovese shows off all it has to offer.Vinous Media | 95 VM

This ripe style is fresh and harmonious, delivering plum, cherry and boysenberry fruit, with accents of earth, iron and eucalyptus. Supple in texture, with a beautifully integrated structure and long, complex aftertaste. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2026 through 2043. 29,667 cases made, 5,833 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis is one of the big surprises of this tasting and ultimately represents one of the best buys in the entire extended Marchesi Antinori portfolio. The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Tenuta Tignanello Marchese Antinori shares the DNA of Tignanello. It is Sangiovese kissed with small parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Of course, the wine is more accessible and open compared to Tignanello, and spiritually, this wine is a Chianti Classico. By that I mean that the elegant minerality of these soils and the sunny flavors of its environs are the determining characteristics. You get wildflower, iris, tart fruit and plum. The wine’s enhanced mineral character, with dusty white rock, is what adds lasting complexity and depth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori is particularly strong this year. Red cherry, plum, blood orange and pomegranate infuse the 2021 with notable depth. French oak is better integrated than in the past. There’s less extraction today and quite a bit more finesse. This is a terrific showing from Antinori.Vinous Media | 93 VMAmong this estate’s 130 hectares of vines in San Casciano Val di Pesa are the Tignanello and Solaia vineyards. This Riserva is fermented in stainless steel, undergoing a spontaneous malolactic fermentation and ageing in French and Hungarian oak barriques for 12 months before bottling. An old vintage, 2010, impressed us all in 2023 by topping the leaderboard at our ‘Ageing Chianti Classico’ panel tasting, and this 2021 equally has plenty of potential. It oozes with menthol, fresh hedgerow berries and some baked currants. There’s plenty of fruit intensity, backed by well integrated wood structure, and it keeps quite a vertical profile in the mouth which helps to belie its density. Powdery tannins coat the cheeks, balanced by fresh acidity, while the inherent juiciness of the fruit waits to be unlocked with time.Decanter | 93 DECAromas of cassis, French oak and violet lead the nose on the polished 2021 Chianti Classico Tignanello Riserva. On the structured, polished palate, tightly woven, fine-grained tannins support Morello cherry, red currant and licorice. It’s balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2025–2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KO