Wine Varietals

wines

The iconic San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 La Ricolma remains one of the most important Merlot-based wines made in Italy—and the world, for that matter. This vintage reveals rich texture and tightly knit concentration that is layered with black cherry, earth, spice and sweet oak. These various elements are beautifully balanced against one another. This is a massively beautiful, full-bodied wine released with just 3,790 bottles. Like the other releases from this estate, it is certified organic.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2019 La Ricolma is a dark, sumptuous wine. Black cherry, plum, licorice, cloves and incense power through. Ricolma, like the other 2019s, needs time to open, as it is quite compact and tannic at this early stage. There’s good depth in the glass, if not quite the finesse of recent years. The 2019 spent 22 months in French oak, 20-25% new.Vinous Media | 96 VMA supple red, packed with bright, pure flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum and oak spices. Reveals an interwoven mineral streak, with a long, focused finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 200 cases made, 35 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2019 Percarlo is a wine of reserve. There’s terrific purity to the fruit and fine tannins for the year, but also a bit of firmness that needs time to resolve. Bright red-toned fruit, cedar, tobacco, licorice, blood orange and spice open nicely to play off those vibrant tannins. I imagine the 2019 will need a number of years to be at its best. The 2019 spent 22 months in a combination of 30HL casks and 500L in tonneau. Production is down about 25%.Vinous Media | 97 VMTaking a similarly dark ruby hue, the 2019 Percarlo is a little slower initially to reveal its aromas of candied raspberry, fresh leather, sweet earth, and polished cedar. Although it’s medium-bodied, it penetrates and saturates the palate with pure concentration of fruit, ripe tannins, and a fantastically long and elegant finish, with a hint of warmth and orange peel citrus. Even all the way through, this is another remarkable wine from the team at San Giusto di Rentennano that has the potential for serious longevity over the coming 15 to 20 years, so readers should be in no rush to open it.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDOne of the most celebrated expression of Sangiovese on the market today is the San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 Percarlo. This organic wine has a hint of extra ripeness or richness that transcends the bouquet. You feel as if you can bite into the fruit, and indeed the 2019 vintage is recognized by its unique power and density (with a 15% alcohol content). It’s a lot to take in, and there is enough lasting fiber and fruit power to fuel a long drinking window. This is one of the bigger and more opulent editions of Percarlo I have tasted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA vibrant, finely knit red, featuring black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit accented by iron, wild herbs and spices. Taut and linear, with a silky texture, lingering finish and resonant tannins. Shows terrific energy that builds from the beginning to the long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2045. 1,375 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Very attractive cherry and dark berry aromas follow through to a medium body with medium round tannins, fresh acidity and a clean, fruity finish. The second wine of Sassicaia. So delicious now, but can age.James Suckling | 92 JSMade with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Sangiovese, this has enticing aromas of cassis, black tea, violet and wild herb. Savory and elegantly structured, the medium-bodied palate shows ripe blackberry, star anise and a hint of coffee bean framed in lithe, polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2025. Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KOMade with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Sangiovese, this has enticing aromas of cassis, black tea, violet and wild herbs. Savory and elegantly structured, the medium-bodied palate shows ripe blackberry, star anise and a hint of coffee bean framed in lithe, polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2025. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Deep, complex and graceful, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino entices with a cascade of blue and purple flowers, black cherries and hints of Tuscan spice. This is a radiant effort, with a tinge of tangerine up front that gives way to ripe red and black fruits propelled by tantalizing acidity. The 2019 tapers off long and staining, leaving a coating of fine tannins to flex their structural muscle as traces of black raspberry fade slowly. This is a soulful Brunello from start to finish. Beautifully done.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Aromas of sour red cherries, fennel and lifted floral notes of lavenders and potpourri. Medium-bodied and round textured with astringent tannins. Excellent length. Healthy and balanced. Try in 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe deep ruby-colored 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is more reserved on opening, with aromas of black cherry, leather, turned soil, and menthol starting to come through. Well-balanced and medium to full-bodied, its tannins are a touch firm, but it’s mouthwatering, with a more citrus-toned profile coming through to lift it along to its a salty finish. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

The 2019 Petresco picks up where the 2018 left off, although it is perhaps a bit more reserved at this stage than its older sibling was. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2019 possesses notable depth and intensity. Time in the glass brings out shades of red/purplish Sangiovese fruit mixed with suggestions of new leather, spice and menthol. The 2019 spent two years in wood (equal parts cask and barrique) followed by a year in cement.Vinous Media | 97 VMPlenty of sweet spices lie upon the citrus and rich berry fruit. Lots of ripeness here but it is also fresh and flavorful, showing impressive texture, structure and a long, juicy finish. Sangiovese. From organically grown grapes. Unfiltered. Very appetizing now, but should hold well in the next four to five years.James Suckling | 93 JS

Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Podere Le Ripi Cielo d’Ulisse has captivating aromas of violet, ripe plum, exotic spice, new leather and a whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate shows ripe black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, blood orange and tobacco alongside a backbone of tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced while a salty note lingers on the close. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA medium red hue, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Cielo D’Ulisse is the fourth vintage coming from the vineyards overlooking the Ombrone River. It’s wonderfully expressive and cascades from the glass with aromas of wild Mediterranean herbs, dusty earth, ripe raspberry, fresh leather, and porcini. Medium-bodied, it’s graceful through the palate, with fine tannins, even acidity, and clean mineral accents. It’s a very appealing wine with a lot of character to enjoy over the next 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDDark and intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Cielo d’Ulisse entices with a burst of exotic spice, zests of tangerine, cedar shavings and rum-soaked cherries. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with crisp wild berry fruits enhanced by vibrant acidity. Violet inner florals arch across the palate. This maintains momentum even as crunchy tannins descend upon the senses, leaving a stain of tart cranberry and orange slowly fading. I expect that three to five years of cellaring will reveal a Brunello of boundless energy. The Cielo d’Ulisse is a single vineyard wine that hails from vineyards in the extreme southwest of Montalcino.Vinous Media | 94 VMVanilla, cherry and blackberries macerate in cloves and cinnamon on the nose. The palate is tart and sweet with cherries and citrus before herbs and soil push back and add a sophisticated, earthy, bitter note.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAn elegant red, offering vivid cherry and strawberry flavors driven by vibrant acidity, with sinewy tannins underneath. Accents of earth and flowers chime in as this winds down on the dense finish. Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe clean and sumptuous 2019 Cielo Ulisse bounces out of the glass with cherry and apricot, as traces of chestnut flit in the background. A pulpy core of juicy red berries is framed by sandy tannins and lifted by bright acidity. This tapers off with a twist of orange peel. Midweight, pretty and immediately approachable. Francesco Illy’s holdings in Montalcino’s western limit sit at a low 150 metres on alluvial, silty soil strewn with stones. While the vines bask in the strong afternoon sun, the thick surrounding forest helps mitigate the heat.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

The 2019 Chianti Classico has changed dramatically since I last tasted it, either because of more time in bottle, or because this is a later bottling. In any event, the 2019 is dense, ample and resonant in feel. Readers will find a serious, texturally intense Chianti Classico that delivers the goods, big time.Vinous Media | 94 VMCastell’in Villa’s 50 hectares of vineyards are scattered around the southern reaches of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Despite the zone’s warmth and generous sunlight, proprietress Coralia Pignatelli crafts firm, vertical wines rather than fruit-driven examples. The 2019 exhibits greater density than the cooler 2018 vintage but offers the same signature purity and precision. Fragrances of citrus, truffles and cherry expand to the palate. Layered and textured, with chalky tannins and pierced through by nervous acidity.Decanter | 93 DEC

This late-release 2019 Gran Selezione is a selection of the estate’s lower altitude, oldest vines, planted in 1965. It spends 24 months in large casks before bottling, and impresses with its poise. Tobacco, black tea and ripe cherry scents evoke the beauty of Sangiovese, with bold and vibrant dark berries and balsamic ripples in the mouth. The fruit is dark in tone but bright in nature, complemented by zesty acidity, floral lift and wonderful sapidity. Only 2,000 bottles produced. (Drink between 2024 - 2039)Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThis is an outstanding set of new releases from I Fabbri. The organic 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione opens to medium-dark richness and a more elaborate bouquet composed of dark fruit, spice and earthy iris root. This vintage naturally produced good density and richness in Sangiovese grapes, and indeed, this wine is compact, firm and nicely put together. There are dark mineral tones on the close with some spicy white pepper too. I love the streamlined feel of this wine and enjoy its very long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione would be a good wine in any other setting, but here, the oak is overpowering. Black cherry, tobacco, spice, cedar and strong torrefaction a bound. The 2018 is still a very good wine, but it could have been more. Perhaps a lot more.Vinous Media | 90 VM

An exquisite wine, Le Cinciole’s 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Aluigi Campo ai Peri is immediately seductive. More than anything else, I admire the purity and delineation here. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, rose petal and dried herbs are finely cut in this chiseled, vibrant Gran Selezione. Le Cinciole sets the standard. What a gorgeous wine this is. The 2019 spent two years in 25hL cask and a year in cement.Vinous Media | 96 VMSelected from the estate’s Campo ai Peri vineyard, this bottling is dedicated to owner Valeria Viganò’s father, Luigi. It has been produced since 2012 as a Riserva and was elevated to Gran Selezione with the 2016 vintage. Becoming scents of tarragon, jasmine and camomile divulge slowly against a backdrop of pulverised stone. The palate is youthful, demonstrating sinewy substance. It falls steadily into place and lands with a mineral drive. Distinct accents of bitter orange play off the firm, chiselled tannins, and there’s no lack of brisk acidity here.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA rich youthful scarlet hue, the 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Aluigi - Campo Ai Peri is also a bit shy on opening before cascading aromas lift from the glass and start to coax open notes of cedar, anise, white pepper, wild roses, fresh herbs, and ripe red cherry. Medium-bodied with a savory profile, it has outstanding purity, a fresh spine of acidity, and ripe tannins that are woven into the structure, with a long finish. This very impressive Gran Selezione displays the nobility and purity that’s possible in this category. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDPure and expressive, this red exudes ripe cherry and raspberry flavors framed with earth, wild herb and mineral accents. Seamless and succulent, with a refined edge of tannins lining the finish. Best from 2026 through 2043. 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAromas of cherry chocolate, red plums, mild spices and hazelnuts. Medium- to full-bodied, textured and velvety with crunchy and delicate fruit and polished tannins. Floral and mineral at the end. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSOn the nose, intensely savory aromas of old leather, balsamic and damp earth are enlivened by a drizzle of cherry syrup. That fruit element explodes on the palate with a cornucopia of berries, but the earthiness lingers as an undertone before a synthesizing mocha finish. The acid floods a valley of fine grained tannins. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE