Wine Varietals

wines

The 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL charges out of the gate with vibrant notes of grapefruit, lemon tart, and coriander seed, leading to wafts of struck flint, sea spray, yuzu zest, and peach blossom. Full-bodied, rich, and densely laden in the mouth with lemon and lime oil layers, it has just enough freshness and a pleasant suggestion of oiliness to the texture, finishing long and lifted. Around 1,500 cases of UV-SL are made. It is named after one of Sonoma’s most reputable vineyard managers, Ulises Valdez Sr. (UV), who passed away recently. The vineyard is situated on Stoetz Lane (SL), only six miles from the Pacific Ocean, up on the hills around Graton and Occidental. Aubert and Valdez Sr. collaborated on the planting of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir here.The Wine Independent | 98+ TWIA spicy and salty white with cooked apple and honey character. Light vanilla and pie crust. Medium to full body. Flavorful and very long, Excellent intensity and focus. White pepper and fruit at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSStarts with a sleek laser beam of ripe and pure apricot, grilled peach and Fuji apple, expanding into salted, toasted almond notes and flavors of lemon sherbet, dried ginger and nutmeg. Shows harmony on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2030. 1,444 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSNot since Robert Parker himself reviewed this wine have vintages of it scored in this vicinity. When viewed in isolation, the 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL is a thrilling wine; only in the rarified air of Aubert’s range could a 94-point rating be considered disappointing. It’s more linear and direct than the opulent, flamboyant 2021, with pronounced notes of crushed stone framing lime zest and white peaches. Full-bodied yet zesty, clean and refreshing, it’s a laser beam of bright fruit, seemingly without the typical Aubert fleshy curvaceousness. Some drinkers may even prefer it for that stylistic leaning.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard shows good energy and tension. The UV-SL remains a relatively light-bodied wine, but some of the hard edges I saw last year have started to soften. Orchard fruit and white pepper lend attractive brightness throughout.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Impressive aromas of fresh herbs from the Tuscan coast, such as sage, mint, rosemary and thyme. Blackcurrants, too. Full-bodied with fine, chewy tannins that show beautiful length and consistency. Racy and beautiful, with lots of subtle and refined character. Slightly more cabernet sauvignon this year, which adds class to the wine. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 10% petit verdot. Give this about three or four years of bottle age. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2020 Saffredi is compelling. Deep yet quite structured, 2020 is unlike any Saffredi I can recall tasting because of its balance of intense dark fruit and vertical structure. Plum, blackberry, pencil shavings, lavender and spice saturate the palate. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2020 is not as showy as most vintages at the same stage.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThis was the newest vintage tasted as part of this retrospective at the estate. The Fattoria le Pupille 2020 Saffredi shows signs of the hot vintage, especially when tasted in context with the gorgeous 2019, the more candied 2018, the toasted 2017 and the classic 2016 vintages. The 2020 definitely shows a riper and fuller character with bold, big-picture terms and fewer tiny details as a result. Elisabetta Geppetti refers to this edition as a "return to the Taschis school," referring to the celebrated Tuscan consultant Giacomo Taschis, whose signature style embraced balanced ripeness. This wine offers end notes of savory tobacco and spice.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSaffredi was first produced in 1987 and has rightfully forged its place in the pantheon of superTuscans. Elisabetta Geppetti’s son, Ettore now oversees the estate’s winemaking, and he told me that 2020 was ‘an Atlantic vintage’ with ‘left bank appeal’ – there’s not usually so much freshness evident in Saffredi. This could have something to do with the lower proportion of Merlot in the blend, down from the usual 20% to 10% since Merlot struggled in this vintage. Black fruit aromas are supplemented with violets and balsamic notes, while in the mouth plentiful tannins grip cassis and spiced plum. There’s a complexity of menthol, spice, chocolate and coffee, with a textured, woody mid-palate and a long, vibrant and youthful finish. Around 40,000 bottles produced.Decanter | 95 DECA rich, juicy nose presents handfuls of cherries and mulberries, along with slices of passion fruit, but a fresh savoriness keeps the sweetness in check. On the palate, dark chocolate brings depth, while tannins and acid attack in tandem. Bold and self-assured—a precise wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2020 Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi has a much more directly fruity nose than the 2019, with leafy redcurrant and bramble aromas and a bit of spice. It is more fruit-focused and simple at the moment. Likewise on the palate the 2020 is much lighter, less concentrated than the 2019 but it is also not overly forced or extracted and it has a lovely weight and texture, great purity of fruit and very elegant and refined tannins. The 2020 has a slightly cooler, more green quality to the fruit but it is beautifully pure and transparent.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIWell-structured and linear, this red frames a core of black currant and black cherry fruit with accents of toasty oak, sweet spices, tobacco and iron. Refined and harmonious, with the stuffing to develop over the next decade. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 through 2035. 3,750 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia shows beautiful minerality with dusty notes of crushed limestone or flint. This is the wine’s special signature, and it shines through in a warm vintage such as this. Rancia also offers an upfront quality of red and purple fruit tones. The 2020 vintage displays pretty concentration and richness with wild cherry and plum, but ultimately the wine leaves you with that elegant mineral sendoff. Rancia will require extra bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPIntense, with complex flavors of cherry, blackberry, violet, mineral and leafy underbrush, this red is silky and verges on racy. Harmonious and persistent, with a long, resonant aftertaste that echoes red fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,100 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA polished and very refined Rancia with sweet berries, cedar and hints of chocolate. Medium body. Fresh and focused. A little reserved at the end. It needs two or three years to come around. Best in 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe nose is a garden, with aromas of potting soil, herbs, roses and violet, but also has undertones of flint and pepper that provide an edge. Cherries and tart blackberries headline the palate, but a chalky, iron-rich earthiness carries over from the nose and dominates the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEMade since 1983, Fèlsina’s historic Riserva is a selection from the estate’s sunbathed six-hectare Rancia site. As always, it matures in barriques, 50% of which are new. The just released 2020 is particularly oak-driven: cedar and vanilla mingle with sage and grilled thyme. There’s ample fruit depth and concentration to flesh out the wood frame; tangy cherries are accented with baked earth and smoke. Grainy tannins start firm yet smooth, though they dry out on the finish.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva pours a rich ruby with a saturated magenta hue. It’s a bit reserved initially but holds onto a sunny and pure profile offering layers of blackberry coulis and a touch of sunny blue fruit, along with sweet sage, rocky earth, and fresh lavender. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with balanced richness and a weightless, rounded feel with sweet tannins and notes of pure black tea on the finish. It handles this warm vintage with a graceful feel, and although it might not be the longest-lived of these wines, I wouldn’t be surprised to find it showing beautifully in 15 or more years. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe estate’s 70 hectares of vineyards are characterized by two different soil types: marine sand versus Pietraforte. The Riserva is typically assembled from plots on the latter as the limestone-rich, rocky terrain yields more austere wines in need of age. Opening slowly, this reveals strawberry blossom, coriander and hints of tobacco. The palate is remarkably perfumed, with an undercurrent of rose and pepper running through the dark brambly berries. Firmly structured, ripe tannins wield an assertive grip, and the zesty acidity has a citrussy, blood orange ring that draws out the finish. Lots of life here.Decanter | 94 DECThis is complex and spiced with red and dark berries, dried orange peel, nut shell and toasted spices. Hints of walnut and crushed stones, too. Medium- to full-bodied with super polished tannins and juicy acidity. Delicious fruit character with a firm mineral backbone. Complete and focused. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSBing cherry and blood orange, potting soil, graphite and then wild herbs—especially sage—appear on the nose, before a whisper of vanilla and cedar. Juicy and fresh on the palate, with vanilla, chocolate and cherry, and then herbs emerging again on the back. A rare example of a wine with great sophistication that’s also an undeniable crowd-pleaser.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WETasted from barrel, the Castello di Monsanto 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva is 90% Sangiovese with 10% Canaiolo and Colorino that ages in various oak vessels for 18 months. This wine is poised to hit the market in January 2024, and 200,000 bottles will be shipped. It shows medium-dark concentration with typical aromas of wild cherry, peat moss, blue flower and light spice. This estate consistently offers well-made and compelling wines at a value price point.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPJust bottled, the 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva is stellar. It offers a beguiling mix of dense fruit supported by a core of vibrant acids. Striking aromatics, notable depth and exceptional balance make the Riserva a winner. This is a such a gorgeous and compelling wine.Vinous Media | 93+ VMA dense red, with well-defined aromas and flavors of black cherry and blackberry shaded by graphite, eucalyptus and cumin. Balanced, if still tightly wound, with a lingering fruity, savory and minerally finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2025 through 2038. 26,000 cases made, 17,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

A wine of great finesse, showing bright lemony fruit, with hints of acacia flowers and marzipan on the nose. On the palate, the wine retains admirable acidity and an effortless lightness on the finish. Caillerets is actually an umbrella for grapes from En Caillerets, Combards, Chassagne and Vigne Derrière; Jean-Noël Gagnard is in the first two lieux-dits. Caroline Lestimé remarked that the vines suffered incredibly from the heat in 2020 and ripening was blocked for a time, although she considers this a ’top-level’ premier cru.Decanter | 95 DEC34 hl/ha. Fine pale lemon, with a very distinct Caillerets nose - all the stones you could want - to support the pure white fruit. Impeccable density on the palate, now including some bright yellow plum fruit, racy acidity, layers on layers here, boding well for the future. Perfect balancing acidity, this has the power to age extremely well. Tasted Nov 2021.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMA deft application of wood can be found on the vaguely exotic aromas of white peach, lemon-lime and pretty floral whiffs. The sleek, intense and finer, if less concentrated and powerful, middle weight flavors also possess a beautiful texture on the clean, dry and tightly wound finish where a touch of austerity slowly emerges. This impeccably well-balanced effort should also repay a decade of keeping.Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with yellow plum and light Mirabelle scents, the oak here neatly integrated. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, good weight and density, waxy and with touches of lemon curd on the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Aromas of menthol, black spice, leather, rose hip and citrus lead the nose on the stunning 2020 Baudana from Luigi Baudana. It’s smooth and delicious, delivering wild raspberry, strawberry compote, blood orange, tobacco and star anise alongside a backbone of polished tannins. Crushed mint lingers on the close while fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Drink 2027–2035. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe deep ruby-hued 2020 Barolo Baudana offers a sweet perfume of candied raspberries, cherry lozenge, crushed flowers, and sweet sage. Medium to full-bodied, it’s ripe and expansive with sweet tannins, it has a fantastic and weightless feel with a buoyant nature, and it’s floral and long on the palate, with a great apricot-noted finish. While it has a wide drinking window, it’s deserving of cellaring. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDSubtle notes of cherries in their prime, thyme, star anise, incense, and warmed earth gradually emerge, over time, yielding a wine work the wait. On the palate, it is plush at first, but the tannins soon make their presence known, shaping the wine into a honed and chiseled example of classic Nebbiolo. The savory elements work in perfect harmony with the deep core of fruit and mouthwatering acidity, creating a Barolo that can be enjoyed now or cellared for decades. Drink Now - 2045Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEWith fruit from Serralunga d’Alba, the Luigi Baudana 2020 Barolo Baudana is a bold and ripe expression with dark currant, black cherry, sweet orange peel and crushed red rose. Soft, earthy layers appear on the mid-palate with hints of spicy licorice. All of that intensity, with soil, fruit and spice, swells over the palate, giving this wine an impactful character. It is almost ready to drink straight out of the gate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPacked with fruit, this red exudes cherry, strawberry, rose and iron notes, with a hint of wild herbs. Vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannins lend well-meshed support. Harmonious and surprisingly approachable already, but this will improve over the next two decades. Best from 2027 through 2045.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2020 Barolo Baudana opens with a burst of plump, juicy, red-toned fruit. Bright acids and persistent tannins are a reminder we’re in Serralunga. The 2020 is going to need a few years to come together, but it is a relatively accessible wine for this part of the appellation. The purity of the fruit here is lovely. Pretty floral and spice overtones lift the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 93 VMAttractive notes of cherries, peaches, red plums and violets on the nose. Juicy and bright, with a medium body and delicious red berry fruit accompanied by fine-grained tannins. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 92 JS

As is often the case when young, this displays prominent mineral reduction scents that add breadth to the wonderfully spicy nose of acacia blossom, carnation, exotic tea and just grated lemon zest. The super-sleek and citrus-tinged big-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract while delivering stunningly good length on the bone-dry, moderately austere and strikingly long finish. Though not completely impenetrable today, it’s close and this is definitely a ’buy and forget you own it’ for at least 10 years and 12 to 15 would be better. Brilliant.Burghound | 97 BH

An exquisite wine, the nose is almost delicate, with ripe apple and floral notes, and the texture of the wine is astonishingly crisp and fine. There is nothing heavy here and the finish lingers seductively. Rich, typical Bâtard, but with uncommon elegance. Picked on the 24th of August, and the early picking date worked well here. The grapes were lightly crushed and then fermented in cask (40% new).Decanter | 96 DECAn overtly floral-suffused nose speaks of white orchard fruit, star anise, citrus confit and a subtle exotic tea nuance. The sleek and borderline painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a very compact, tightly wound and hugely long finale. This is very backward and almost raw in how primary it is and as such, it would be largely pointless to open a bottle before at least 5 years of age. This beauty possess first-rate potential provided you have the patience.Burghound | 95 BHPale lemon and lime. The bouquet shows all the majesty of this vineyard without the over-ripeness which I have found in some past vintages. 29 hl/ha. Superb intensity with a measured ripeness of fruit from these 48 year old vines, which are ploughed by a horse named Croesus. Stretches out beautifully at the back, with some peachier notes at the finish. Really very persistent indeed. Excellent. Tasted Nov 2021.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JM