Wine Varietals

wines

The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Ax - B comes from the non-Première Cru classified part of Aux Bouthières and pressed at very low pressure, and aged for 15 months in used barrel. This is initially very understated, demands more coaxing from the glass than the Vieilles Vignes. But with time, it offers more mineralité and terroir expression, fine delineation with subtle struck flinty aromas manifesting with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a taut line of acidity, certainly spicier and more peppery than the Vieilles Vignes with a soft landing on the finish. Great complexity here as I found in barrel last year - recommended.Vinous Media | 92 VM

This impeccably structured version shows a simmering intensity that remains graceful on the palate, with detailed raspberry flavors that draw in accents of forest floor and rose petal as this builds tension and richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2034. 553 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe Summum comes from the lowest-yielding vines in the La Source parcel and this wine is made with 33% whole cluster. The aromatics balance elegance with deep umami character. Elements of turned earth and smoky rose petals play off against tart blackberries and blood oranges. The palate shows a concentration of fruit yielding freshness throughout. Plum skin and blackberries with mint are given over to savoury herbs, mouthfuls of dried violets, turned earth, smoked sea salt and a hint of nori, a wonderful display of umami and forest floor.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECMade from the oldest vines on the Seven Springs property, this medium-bodied and complex wine seamlessly blends savory notes of black tea and bay leaves with tart cherry, strawberry, raspberry and mushroom undertones. Best from 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe newest Summum is a showstopper. Fresh, floral aromas of mainland roses and tropical plumeria flowers join together with tart red raspberry and roasted pork shoulder notes. A crisp mouthfeel and texture showcase flavors like Rainier cherries, lime and bittersweet dark chocolate. Pour this with grilled portobello mushrooms and Coltrane’s “Giant Steps.”Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2022 Pinot Noir Summum is perfumed with peppery florals and dusty lavender, complementing crushed wild berries. This is full of energy, cooling and racy, with depths of tart red fruit cascading beneath an air of violet and rose. It takes on a grippy sensation as fine tannins mount toward the close. The Summum is fermented using 30-40% whole clusters and refined in 60% new French oak.Vinous Media | 95 VMFermented with whole clusters, the 2022 Pinot Noir Summum unfurls dramatically on the nose, wafts of tar and underbrush giving way to cranberry, autumn leaves and dried flowers. The medium-bodied palate has a concentrated core of nuanced fruit. It’s structured by silky tannins and vibrant acidity and has a long, bitters-laced finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2022 Summum Pinot Noir is an outstanding young wine. Like the la Source bottling this year, the wine comes in at 13.2 percent octane and offers up a superb and utterly refined bouquet of black cherries, sweet dark berries, raw cocoa, dark soil tones, pigeon, woodsmoke and a gentle framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, tangy and precise, with a great core of black fruit, superb soil transparency and grip, ripe, fine-grained tannins and laser-like focus on the long, complex and nascently complex finish. As I have mentioned before, the Summum bottling is made from the same parcels of vines as the la Source, with the team at Evening Land making a vineyard selection of the very finest bunches to be dedicated to this cuvée. This will need an extended period of hibernation, but it will be outstanding once it is ready to go. (Drink between 2037 - 2075)John Gilman | 94 JG

A deeper and layered profile emerges in the 2022 Pinot Noir Eileen Vineyard, which comes from windswept site where the grapes get thick skins from the wind. It has a more woodsy profile, with savory saline, brothy feel, tea leaf, toasted spice, and black cherries. Drink it over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDEileen is at the top of the hill, staring out towards the Coast Range. This wine is a picture of elegance, and the turbulence from the Van Duzer Corridor moves through the clusters and vines. It’s satiny, with spiced aromatics, wild herbs and bright tart cranberries. The site’s higher acids lift the silky mouthfeel, it comes together beautifully. Blue fruits, wild spearmint and Chinese five spice frame an elegance of red berries and pine bough freshness. The finish shows a sweetness of berries and a note of green peppercorn.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2022 Pinot Noir Eileen Vineyard seduces with a sweetly spiced yet refined bouquet that blends cloves and cinnamon sticks with dusty rose, mint and bright cherries. Silken to the core and lifted in feel, this sweeps across the palate with grace, soothing with its juicy acidity as ripe red berry fruits slowly saturate. It’s gently tannic and potent, leaving a staining of primary concentration while finishing dramatically long and classically dry. The Eileen Vineyard refined for seventeen months in 32% new French oak.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2022 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard comes from the only pre-existing vines the family acquired when they purchased the winery in 1992. A deeper magenta color, it’s perfumed with seductive notes of violets, black raspberries, sweet herbs, and forest earth. The palate offers plenty of purity, and it has a fantastic, savory finish, with ripe tannins and even acidity. It’s drinking well now, with a wide window for enjoying over the coming 15 or so years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA powerful, structured and densely packed wine that is deep in color and saturated with black fruit, dark spices and a bitter chocolate aspect that adds to its grippy mouthfeel. Smoky, peppery, grilled herb accents, too. Drinkable now, but best from 2029.James Suckling | 97 JSThe wild mint leaps from the glass at the outset, the Marjorie site was planted in 1982, on its own roots, replanted vine by vine starting in 2000. Aromatics of fresh spearmint, red bramble fruits and a tart spritz of blood orange complete the aromatic appeal. The tannins are substantial here and frame the wine’s elegance with a structure that will enable some great ageing. It’s a tough site to farm because of the spacing and the low pH. Tart red berries and a melange of dried scrub flavours meld into notes of blackberry and mint and a touch of white pepper to finish.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECCherry cola, spice cake, mint leaves and red currants form an enticing bouquet as the 2022 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard opens in the glass. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with vibrant acidity that adds an abundance of energy as tart wild berries swirl throughout. Minerality comes forward through the close, along with a chalky saturation and edgy tannins that promise many years of evolution.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Although the vines for this Fremiets are very close to those for the Clos des Angles bottling, the style is very different – it is much more mineral, almost salty, with bright black fruit, notes of violets and spice, and a texture with abundant tannic grip and an almost chewy feel. The domaine farms nearly 1.6 hectares on the steeper slopes with shallow soils. Although it is not as reserved as the Clos des Ducs, this would benefit from five years of age before opening. (Drink between 2025 - 2050)Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has more depth and fruit concentration compared to the Clos des Angles. The nose displays a mélange of red and black fruit, pressed flowers and a touch of loam aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, just a slight lactic note on the entry, segueing into a more marine-tinged latter half. A pinch of black pepper appears toward the finish. Give this two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of kirsch, black raspberry, anise and plenty of spice nuances are trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The suave, palate coating and solidly concentrated flavors possess a richer and more generous mouthfeel where equally fine-grained tannins shape the less mineral-driven but slightly longer finish. In the context of what is typical, this is a relatively powerful Frémiets that is very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHOffering up aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices and petals, the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet is medium to full-bodied, pure and lively, with refined, powdery tannins and a fine-boned, elegant profile.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPMid crimson purple. The vineyard is just above Clos des Angles, and bears some similarity on the nose. However, the fruit is a little deeper, and darker on the palate, good acidity here, just a little more structure all round. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

The 2022 Pinot Noir Outcrop is fantastically spicy! Raspberry and strawberry jam, orange peel and candied violets are accented by wafts of resinous herbs, white pepper, lavender and bitters on the nose. The light-bodied palate is silky and vibrant, its concentrated flavors focused on bright citrus and floral perfume at this early stage. As it airs in the glass, it reveals even more nuance and detail, and it has a hauntingly long finish. It will be long lived in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPOwn-rooted, Wadenswil vines from a northern exposure produce wines of savoury structure in the Eyrie Vineyards Outcrop. Fruit character predominates the aromatics, with a spicy blood orange melding with notes of sweet strawberries and savoury dried lavender. The palate goes savoury immediately with tea leaves, fresh mint, and a melange of white and green peppercorns. Structure, texture and, ultimately, longevity will win out.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2022 Pinot Noir Outcrop is a pale ruby hue and is pretty and floral with notes of ripe candied raspberries, pretty flowers, and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied and well-defined, with a really mouthwatering structure, it’s the most savory of these wines from Eyrie, with notes of tea leaf and mountain herbs. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDOutcrop is five acres of the Wadenswil clone planted with a northern exposure between 1982 and 2000. The wine’s ripe blackcap raspberry, Stargaze lily ad orange zest aromas make an arresting perfume. The Outcrop’s tart blackberry, black tea and earthy, plum -like dried ancho chile flavors seal the deal. This is beautifully balanced, with lemony acidity and silky tannins. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEA savory, textural and vibrant red with notes of wild strawberries, dried roses, wild herbs, crushed stone and white pepper. It’s medium-bodied with bright acidity and character. Silky texture with an ethereal character. Refined and infused with a long, textural finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSLavender and violet tones give way to wet stone and hints of blackberry as the delicate 2022 Pinot Noir Outcrop slowly blossoms in the glass. Silky-smooth and pliant, it sweeps across the palate with tart red and blue fruits, taking on a spicy tension toward the close. While not overly tannic, the 2022 finishes remarkably long and potent, with a flowery concentration that lingers on.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2022 Pinot Noir Sisters is sapid and seamlessly structured. It opens slowly on the nose, blossoming from macerated strawberries, orange peel and tea leaves to lavender, white pepper and resinous herbs. The light-bodied palate pairs luxurious, velvety tannins with fireworks of acidity that sparkle with wild berry and floral perfume, and it has a long, latent finish. It will benefit from long-term cellaring.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2022 Pinot Noir Sisters Vineyard is lifted and refined, with a dusty bouquet of dried black cherries and flowery underbrush lifted by hints of mentholated herbs. It’s more energetic within, silky-smooth yet spry, with bright wild berry fruits and a cascade of rosy inner florals that swirl throughout. Saline mineral tones emerge toward the close as the 2022 finishes with a youthful tension, leaving edgy tannins and notes of spiced blood orange that punctuate the experience quite nicely.Vinous Media | 94 VMUsually a delicate expression for Eyrie, the 2022 Pinot Noir Sisters Vineyard is over the top out of the gate. The palest red ruby shade, its perfume is floral and highly expressive, with notes of fresh flowers, wild strawberries, Herbes de Provence, and stony earth. It has dark mineral notes on the palate, with real intensity, refreshing, mouthwatering mineral persistence, and a long finish. It seems like it’s going to be a cuddly wine, but it’s savory and structured on the palate. Drink 2025-2037.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDSmoky gunflint, fresh mint and pine tar aromatics come from the Sisters, a vineyard planted in 1989 that now serves as an experimental nursery for Jason Lett and Eyrie Vineyards. It is the lowest elevation of the Eyrie estate sites. The palate gives gobs of earthen mineral tones, turned soils, and hints of pencil lead. A richness of pomegranate molasses, smoky clove and tea tree oil savouriness round out this wonderfully textured and structured Pinot Noir.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECSisters is four acres of Pommard and Wadenswill clones planted in the Dundee Hills in the late 1980s. It leads with aromas of loamy soil, meadow flowers and dark, brambly berries. The flavors are a mix of boysenberries and black tea, with wee bits of coriander, sage and crushed brick dust. I’d love to try this with a pork belly banh mi.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WELovely nose with some forest berries, red currants, crushed stone and potpourri. Medium-bodied with silky tannins. Velvety, poised and delicious, with a succulent, vibrant finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Les Bons Batons is the Domaine’s largest cuvée from 1.8 hectares of vines. It has a well-defined bouquet with bright red fruit. The medium-bodied palate has vivid red fruit and fine structure with gentle grip on the finish. Village quality here.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Mid purple. A very stylish perfumed Chambolle fruit of medium plus density. This is quite delicious in the mouth and seems relatively approachable. Raspberries and violets with a fine sense of precision, adequate acidity and very long. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Village has an elegant bouquet with red berries, sous-bois and pressed flowers. Typical of the Domaine. The palate is medium-bodied with raspberry, wild strawberry fruit, and supple tannins, lightly spiced with gentle grip on the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMA subtle but not invisible application of wood sets off cool aromas of plum, violet and a blend of red and dark currant. The succulent, round and plump middleweight flavors that possess good richness and solid volume, all wrapped in a dusty, serious and notably firmer finale. This is also a very fine example of the genre also worth your attention.Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru has a superb bouquet of red and black fruit, bay leaf, clove, and an underlying __mineralité that comes through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fine grip. It is complex and a little more savory in style, fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMBright mid crimson, the nose builds very well, with a mix of lighter and darker red fruit, useful oaking in the background, and a fine long sensual finish, still with plenty of structure for longer term ageing. Promising. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMA slightly riper yet airy mix features notes of red and dark pinot fruit, earth and a relatively broad array of spice and floral nuances. The delicious, delicious and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors also conclude in a dusty, sappy and solidly powerful finish that goes on and on. This could use more depth but given how this is built, that should reasonably occur in time.Burghound | 91-94 BH

This is also aromatically really fresh with its blend of dark raspberry, violet and a crushed fennel aromas. The mouthfeel of the slightly richer flavors is also caressing but here there is a subtle minerality on the lacy, balanced and youthfully austere finale that delivers slightly better persistence. Textbook Chatelots.Burghound | 90-93 BHA fine lighter purple. Just a touch of volatility and a little oak behind. Slightly more density than the village wine but not quite in place. That’s the limestone showing, says Ghislaine. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots 1er Cru is quite closed on the nose: light red fruit, a little sous-bois and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s fresh and saline, though the finish doesn’t kick on with the same gusto as other cuvées. I will be prudent for now, but it may improve in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Justin Willett’s transparent, focused winemaking style is well-suited for this site, endowing the 2022 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard with compelling crystalline purity. A beautiful, nuanced nose of clementines, petrichor and white flowers gives way to a precise, lively yet pillowy palate, concluding with a fine-grained chalky finish that remains bright and rounded simultaneously. A graceful, understated expression of this site, I suspect some additional weight and dimension will come from a year or two in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2022 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard is another stellar wine in this range from Tyler. Complex, layered and nuanced, the S&B Chardonnay has so much to offer. There’s gorgeous texture here, not to mention tons of S&B character. Clean mineral notes extend the finish.Vinous Media | 95 VM

This is the benchmark for (tank fermented, pure) Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc. The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc has sweet green pea, green apple skins, juniper, rosemary, a hint of nashi pear and layers of jasmine tea and spice. This is, as usual, very fine and spicy, with purity and textural complexity side by side. Pear skin. Pretty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPVery fresh nose with a wide spectrum of aromas, ranging from forthrightly grassy and fresh-basil notes to gooseberry, grapefruit and passion fruit, this is a juicy and elegant Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc. Long, racy finish. Drink now. Screw cap.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2022 Rioja Blanco bottling from Sandra Bravo’s Bodega Sierra de Toloño is composed entirely from Viura (albeit, with a bit of Tempranillo Blanco co-planted in the vineyard). Ten percent of the cuvée is raised in oak, with the remainder in stainless steel and the wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a precise and complex mix of tart pear, lemon, salty soil tones, white flowers and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, young and full-bodied, with lovely depth at the core, good soil signature, zesty acids and fine focus and balance on the long and nascently complex finish. This is quite tasty out of the blocks, but will gain in complexity with some time in the cellar. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 91+ JG

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2022 Viré-Clessé Breillonde is aged two-thirds in demi-muids and the rest in stainless steel. This has a slightly cooler and more malic bouquet than the regular Viré-Clessé. There’s some reserve here, so it will demand more coaxing. The palate is well balanced with a dab of dried honey and stem ginger on the entry. Quite a pithy Viré-Clessé complex with a very keen line of acidity that cuts through the waxy finish. There’s a hint of Muscat on the aftertaste. This is a great wine, and it should age well over the next 12-15 years.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Usually a benchmark for the appellation, Droin’s Chablis has a lot more density and concentration than the Petit Chablis. More structure and minerality here. Will be very good and a classic example.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2022 Chablis Village has a crisp, focused bouquet with hints of pressed white flowers and wet stone. The elegant palate has flecks of white peach and apricot, balanced and lovely with a charming, precise finish. This is very capable and should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Hommage à Louis has quite a malic, green apple and Anjou pear-scented nose that unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is taut and linear, with moderate depth, clamming up slightly towards the finish compared with the Grenouilles or Valmur.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2022 Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru has a more low-key nose than the impressive 2021, well-defined with crushed limestone, Granny Smiths and peach skin aromas. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine bead of acidity counterbalancing the richness. Tensile, quite saline, building gradually towards a very cohesive finish. Refined and sophisticated.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2022 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru has a very aromatic bouquet with apple blossom, white peach, wet stone and light praline scents - complex. The palate is delineated and sapid on the entry, quite strict with quince and peach hints towards the sustained finish. Classy, if just missing the killer blow.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is very fragrant on the nose with white peach, white chocolate and hints of wet stone scents, like a Vaillons-plus. The palate is well-defined, taut and fresh, with crisp acidity and good depth, but it starts to clam up towards the finish. Patience will be required, but there is no doubting the caliber of this Grand Cru.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a complex bouquet with touches of white peach and a muscat-like scent, very focused and seductive. The palate conveys energy and vigor with citrus fruit and hints of orange zest towards the persistent finish. Superb.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2022 Saumur Blanc from Lena Filliatreau is a lovely wine. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant blend of sweet quince, lemon, chalky soil tones, limepeel, a touch of lanolin and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, zesty acids and excellent focus and grip on the long and very well balanced finish. Fine juice that is already quite easy to drink, but will be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

This is also aromatically cool and almost as reticent with its airy aromas of white pepper, mineral reduction, essence of pear and a suggestion of wood influence. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors possess an even more developed sense of refinement while exhibiting fine length on the quinine, stony and bitter lemon zest-suffused finale. This is lovely and a Vaillons of finesse in 2022.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2021 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru had been blended the previous week, during which a majority of the lees is kept. Often one of my favorite cuvées from William Fevre, the entrancing bouquet has impressive intensity on the nose. The palate is well-balanced with lemon verbena and touches of pear, a fine sense of energy and composure, and a persistent finish. This already looks very promising.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMTypical Vaillons perfume and freshness. Precise but with good weight and precision. A classy Vaillons which will drink well when young but will also age. Fèvre owns 3.5ha, with 50% in Vaillons, and the rest spread between Chatains, Roncière and Melinots. Early harvest here.Decanter | 92 DEC

From 80- to 90-year-old vines picked at 78° Oechsle, the 2022 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett opens with a pretty reductive and sulfidic bouquet with stony and herbal notes wrapping around the bright fruits and white blossom aromas. This wine needs lots of air, but Constantin has already fallen in love with the nose now. Savory, clear and refined on the palate, with crystalline, finely grained acidity and a salivating taste of slate, this is a very promising Kabinett from the iconic cru in Wehlen. The 2022 should be aged for at least 5-10 years, and it will reward your patience with great finesse and complexity. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP