Wine Varietals

wines

The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Vinous Media | 97-99 VM(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A ripe and super-fresh nose offers up notes of black raspberry, plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and a whiff of incense. The racy, intense and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors retain outstanding delineation as well as an abundance of palate soaking dry extract before delivering stunningly good length where an interesting hint of citrus character in the form of mandarin orange appears. This incredibly powerful effort is both classy and highly complex and like the Bonnes Mares, is a wine that will live for decades. With that said, it’s not so backward and compact to preclude it being approachable after only 10 to 12 years. A knockout by any standard. (Drink starting 2043)Burghound | 97 BHAll the vines that are used to produce this extensive cuvée of Musigny are over 25 years’ old, so it always has good concentration. But in 2018, it’s an especially big, dense, powerful wine with masses of inky colour, assertive one-third new oak, plenty of plush bramble and black cherry fruit, undertones of sweet spices and liquorice and a chalky flourish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes was also in fine form at the time of my visit, as the racking for this cuvée was just starting and there were plenty of untouched casks to choose from for sampling. The wine is very deep and still very primary on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, dark chocolate, gamebird, woodsmoke, soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off excellent mid-palate depth of sappy fruit, with good mineral drive, ripe, seamless and buried tannins, fine focus and grip and a long, focused and classy finish. All this needs is time in the cellar! (Drink between 2038-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

Sensual’ is the word Véronique Drouhin uses to describe this remarkable wine and there is certainly something fleshy, enticing and engaging about this polished, refined Grand Cru bottling. Made with 40% whole bunches and 30% new wood, it’s bright, perfumed and very silky with lacy tannins and no sign of the heat of the vintage. Decadent stuff. Drinking Window 2026 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2018 Musigny Grand Cru is slightly lighter than the Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside and has a more detailed, precise bouquet of intense blackberry, mulberry, sous-bois and light charcoal aromas that gain power with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, very sensual and seductive. The polished and lightly spiced finish is pure class. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM(Maison Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru Red) A highly restrained nose requires plenty of swirling to coax the super-floral and spicy aromas to reveal nuances of plum liqueur, red cherry and sandalwood. The marvelously refined middle weight flavors possess a beguiling satin-like texture yet there is no lack of punch on the wonderfully long, complex and well-balanced finish. Like the Amoureuses, this stunningly classy effort is a knockout that should also age effortlessly over the long-term. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 94-96 BH

The 2018 Chablis Village, matured for 12 months in 80% stainless steel and 20% used oak, has a vibrant, fresh, classic Chablis nose that many other growers were not able to achieve in this warm year. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, vibrant and zesty, showing a touch of spice on the elegant finish. This must surely be one of the finest Chablis Village of 2018.Vinous Media | 92 VMA touch of wet walnut accompanies pear and lemon on this wine’s fresh nose. Vivaciousness at the core belies the heat of the 2018 vintage. Yes, there is concentration and some midpalate weight, but salty, preserved-lemon freshness dominates the wine and bright finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2018 Chablis Vauprin comes from 1.7ha of 25-year-old vines and is raised for 12 months in 50% oak barrels and 50% stainless steel. It has a very harmonious bouquet of yellow flowers, mirabelle, crushed rocks and light hazelnut aromas that attain impressive intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity; there is real tension and race here. The finish fans out wonderfully and its persistence deserves applause considering the relatively unknown location of this vineyard. Highly recommended.Vinous Media | 93 VMResonant notes of roasted hazelnut on the nose of this wine sit well with the lemon brightness. The palate carries the same nuttiness but puts lemon freshness center stage. This slightly smoky combination is bedded on a smooth but cooling, yeasty texture, with beautiful length. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very elegant bouquet that is more poised and detailed than the Charmes-Chambertin, offering black cherries, raspberry and ground gravelly scents; floral notes emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gorgeous blueberry and strawberry fruit and a silky-smooth, sensual finish that is utterly refined. Stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries and rose petals, framed by a deft touch of new oak, and on the palate it’s more reserved than the Charmes at this early stage. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly structural, it’s lively and nicely defined, but it will need a bit more time than the Charmes to come around. As readers will remember, Dugat’s vines in Chapelle-Chambertin are located in lieu-dit Les Gémeaux, a site that tends to produce somewhat more structured wines than adjacent lieu-dit La Chapelle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A riper and more deeply pitched nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis, violet and discreet earth and spice nuances. The sleek and almost painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess event power and muscle while delivering excellent persistence on the minerally, crunchy and youthfully austere finish. This too is very clearly constructed for the long-term and it’s pointless to buy this without the expectation of aging it properly. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 92-94 BH

This was the last wine I tasted on my three-week Burgundy tour and it was a great way to finish. Sourced from a 0.33ha block of 60-year-old vines on the Chassagne side of the Grand Cru, it's consistently the most patrician wine in Caroline Lestimé's range. Spicy, structured and stylishy oaked in 60% new barrels, it's powerful yet fresh with wonderful energy. Drinking Window 2023 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru White) : A notably ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic but not really surmature nose consists primarily of spicy white orchard fruit along with hints of wood, white flowers and viognier. The rich, opulent and vibrant broad-shouldered flavors possess lovely complexity while delivering excellent length on the powerful and focused if somewhat linear finish. This will almost certainly add body with age, and it appears to be structured for mid to even longer-term cellaring. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 93 BH

The Clos des Mouches made by Joseph Drouhin may be more famous, but Bichot’s parcel of 0.7ha, situated in the highest part of the Premier Cru, is pretty impressive in its own right. Bright, focused and chiselled, it’s the sort of white that wouldn’t look out of place in Puligny-Montrachet, combining citrus, wet stone and aniseed flavours.Drinking Window 2021 - 2028Decanter | 94 DECA creamy-textured white with sliced apples, pears, cream and some lemon and lime rind. Hints of morning yogurt and smoke. Medium-bodied, ready and delicious. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSCream and roasted hazelnut notes create an inviting, rounded nose on this wine. The palate has that same hazelnut richness and creamy flow, buttressed by freshness that recalls lemon and yellow pear. A lovely balance and a juicy, fresh finish do justice to the warm 2018 vintage. Drink by 2035.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Beaune "Clos des Mouches" 1er Cru White) An overtly floral nose combines notes of various white-fleshed fruit with those of lemon grass and spice wisps. The sleek, delicious and equally seductively textured medium-bodied flavors possess very good depth and sneaky length. This balanced effort should drink well young as well as with a few years of bottle aging. (Drink starting 2024)Burghound | 91 BHMarked by vivid acidity, this white evokes lemon, apple, vanilla and clove notes. A tad disjointed, this could use a year to integrate, or decant now. Shows echoes of oak spice on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2029. 480 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very well defined, quite vivid bouquet with blueberry, loganberry, pitted black olive and light sea spray aromas. This is one of the best aromatics that I have encountered from this Grand Cru in 2019. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It is actually quite "Mazis" in style thanks to the structure, though it closes down a touch towards the almost surly finish. This is a "serious" Charmes-Chambertin from Arnaud Mortet that deserves several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMThe holding is next to Griotte-Chambertin, with a soil full of small stones. 50% whole bunches here. This 2019 Charmes-Chambertin is remarkably stylish and not too obviously opulent. Instead it is beautiful, balanced, filling the mouth graciously with pure red fruit, and a lovely follow through, finesse throughout and very persistent. Tasted: November 2020.Jasper Morris | 94-98 JMServed after the Chambertin this year. A full crop unaffected by the frost. Full bright purple, less crimson than Chambertin. The nose has a toasty reduction. There is the expected intensity of fruit of but it is in a slightly undigested form at the moment, and the acidity is a little more prominent. This may show better a little further down the road. Tasted: October 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA relatively high-toned array is composed of red cherry, pomegranate and raspberry along with oak and warm earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is less full-bodied but slightly finer before delivering outstanding persistence on the seductively textured and more mineral-driven finale. This is really quite lovely and fashioned in an understated style. Make no mistake though, this beauty should age just as well as the Mazoyères.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Aromas of peonies, plums, red berries, potpourri, warm spices and orange rind introduce de Montille’s 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy wine that’s deep and concentrated, with lively acids and supple tannins that assert themselves gently on the finish. As usual, this will require some patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis 1.51ha parcel of Taillepieds is located at the top of the hill in gravelly soils. The grapes were entirely fermented as whole clusters and the result is wonderful. Initially somewhat closed, it opens with time to show lovely plummy fruit, with a hidden reserve of floral and garrigue aromas, plus a marked saline character. The texture at this stage is somewhat severe, with firm, slightly austere tannins, but the density suggests it will open up with time.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2019 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has a riper nose than Buffet’s Taillepieds. Fleshy Morello cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of orange peel and background black truffle nuances linger. The palate is medium-bodied, with finely chiseled tannins and a clever reduction at play here that lends edge toward the finish. Exuding good energy and becoming more peppery in the glass, this should age with style once it absorbs its patina of oak. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMA super-floral nose seems to have every floral element in the book including a perfumed hint of gardenia that adds a touch of elegance to the exotically spicy aromas of red and black raspberry. The pure and almost painfully intense flavors are like rolling tiny stones around in the mouth while delivering outstanding depth and persistence on the overtly austere, serious and compact finale that leaves zero doubt that this beauty is built-to-age. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 92-95 BHA light to medium red, attractively perfumed. There is a sterner structure on the palate, with some evidence of whole bunches adding a salinity to the finish. A little liquorice touch as well. This is relatively restrained and I suspect there may yet be more to develop. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Sep 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Graceful mid purple with a supple and elegant dark red fruit. A certain nobility to this, and a little deeper riper and darker fruit than the village blend. Very attractive fruit including some blackberry. Maybe too dark for some? Tasted Nov 2020.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMA less expressive, even somewhat brooding nose, grudgingly reflects notes of poached plum, black raspberry and spice nuances. The finer and more mineral-driven middle weight flavors possess equally good verve along with fine depth and persistence on the pit fruit-inflected finish. This is lovely and notably less Gevrey in character; indeed its proximity to Morey is evident.Burghound | 90-92 BHMingling aromas of cherries, berries, peonies and orange rind, the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux is medium-bodied, lively and elegant. As usual, it’s a touch less rich and muscular than its Vieilles Vignes counterpart from the other side of the appellation.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

The 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru is laden with more new oak on the nose compared to its peers, and, as such, it doesn’t possess the same delineation and terroir expression. There is some reduction and Brettanomyces at play here. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins, but is a little chewy and rustic. There is a very slight but nagging vegetal edge on the finish that just detracts from the overall harmony, though that may resolve with time. It looks as if it has been overtaken by their Latricières-Chambertin. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMA riper and spicier but still appealingly fresh nose presents notes of poached plum, red currant and a plethora of floral elements that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The more voluminous and richer medium-bodied flavors are less mineral-driven but more caressing and seductively textured while offering excellent length on the ever-so-mildly warm and vaguely sweet finale. This too could use a bit more depth, but the underlying material appears to be present for that to gradually develop. With that said, the sweetness of the finish renders this a bit less attractive than its two grand cru brethren.Burghound | 91 BHThe sombre side of crimson. This is showing a slightly heavy and reductive nose. Better on the palate but still on the heavy side, freshened by some stems, but there might be a bacterial element too. Not on form today, to revisit. Tasted Sep 2023.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

A very rich and concentrated wine that borders on opulence, but has a ton of fine tannins and enough acidity to keep it fresh. Some chocolate and coffee from new oak, but the very ripe red fruit is also very present. Very bold finish with plenty of tannin, but nothing dominant. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSA blend of their own grapes plus those from a well-known grower in the appellation, made in the barrel, à la vinification intégrale. Far from the deepest colour, with a really stylish nose, some strawberries, gentle and graceful. Then an enormous depth of fruit behind, smoothly sensual finish. A very good example. Tasted Dec 2020.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2019 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is promising, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berries, coniferous forest floor, sweet spices, orange oil and peonies. Full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, it’s a sumptuous, gourmand Clos de Bèze, framed by velvety tannins and lively acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPMuch like the Vosne "1er", there is a hint of herbal tea sitting atop the markedly spicy and floral scented nose of red and dark currant and sandalwood. There is outstanding volume to the extract rich large-scaled flavors that conclude in a balanced, long and youthfully austere finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This needs to develop better depth though the track record of this perennially distinguished wine all but guarantees more will progressively develop.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru contains around 30% whole cluster and is vinified in 500-liter barrels instead of open-top fermenters. It is very aromatic on the nose, presenting strong floral/peony aromas and touches of oyster shell and sea cave. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a slightly brutish finish compared to the Clos Vougeot. Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

(Mazy-Chambertin- Domaine Joseph Roty) The 2019 Mazy-Chambertin is utterly brilliant. The bouquet is pure, precise and beautifully sappy in personality, soaring from the glass in a mix of black cherries, cassis, smoked meats, very complex, dark soil tones, woodsmoke, those savory elements particular to Mazy’s terroir, coffee bean and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and perfectly balanced, with a beautiful core of fruit, stunning mineral drive, ripe, buried tannins and a very, very long, complex and seamless finish. A great, great wine in the making. (Drink between 2035-2120)John Gilman | 98 JGThe 2019 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of wild berries, plums, rose petals, loamy soil, black truffles and smoked meats. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it’s a fleshy, textural wine with terrific concentration, lively acids and a long, saline finish. It’s one of the high points of the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru has an almost confit-like bouquet, wild strawberry intermingling with crème de cassis and incense, plus just a touch of melted tar. The fresh palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Quite oaky on the finish (100% new); this will require several years to assimilate.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Discreet though not imperceptible wood sets off the very spicy and smoky liqueur-like aromas of mostly dark berries that are liberally laced with notes of the sauvage and warm earth. The caressing but imposingly powerful big-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the super-saline finish that goes on and on and where the wood telegraphed by the nose gradually reemerges. This is a robust, even slightly rustic, Mazy that should comfortably reward 15+ years of cellaring. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93 BH

This wine is both taut and generously fruity. The steely edge promises plenty of aging while more tropical flavors of mango and white peach give richness. The wine will age well. Don’t drink before 2023.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes wafts from the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, orange oil, pastry cream, vanilla pod and light reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it’s girdled by bright acids and framed by chalky structuring extract.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Les Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, a selection that is raised in two demi-muids, has a glorious, vigorous bouquet of black currant leaf, white peach, Japanese yuzu and crushed rock. The taut, fresh palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and a saline finish. It needs a bit more persistence, but otherwise this has a lot of potential. Give it 2–3 years in the cellar.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the volume of this Les Pucelles towards the finish, energetic and very persistent in the mouth. This is another electrifying Puligny ‘19 from Leflaive. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 95+ VMThrilling wine. Leflaive owns three parcels in Les Pucelles at the northern tip of Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet at the center of the vineyard. The mature vines deliver a perfumed, almost exotic fruit character with notes of spice and hazelnut. Still, there is also a bright lemony freshness to the wine and a lovely salty mineral finish that lift it to another plane and will allow it to continue improving for decades. The most compelling of the premiers crus from Leflaive. (Drink between 2021-2040)Decanter | 95 DECFiner boned and less concentrated than the extraordinary Combettes, the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles offers up aromas of peach, orange zest, white flowers, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, saline and chiseled, this might just be a little shy after bottling, but on first encounter, it doesn’t dominate Leflaive’s range of premiers crus to the extent that it usually does.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPProminent notes of honeysuckle and passion fruit are laced with a variety of spice and citrus elements. There is good richness and an abundance of dry extract to the strikingly refined flavors that possess a gorgeous mouthfeel while delivering flat out superb length on the balanced finale. This is very classy juice that should basically age for as long as anyone would reasonably like. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93-96 BH

Beautifully layered aromas are composed by notes of citrus confit, white and yellow orchard fruit, dried apricot and traces of both wood and acacia. There is excellent density and richness to the powerful, palate coating and hugely long finish. This balanced but very firm effort completely transcends the rest of the range though note well that it’s going to require extended patience before it will reveal its full potential.Burghound | 93-95 BH

Leflaive owns four contiguous parcels in the center of BBM that total 1.15 hectares, nearly half of the appellation. The vines lie just down the slope from one of their four Bâtard parcels. In 2019, Leflaive began their harvest on September 11th. The Bienvenues has retained a rewarding freshness, with a forward fruit that has both tropical and citrus elements and plenty of floral notes. The texture is lively but supple; there is plenty of fresh acidity that brings a pleasant energy to the wine. This should age for decades to come. Drinking Window: 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DECUnwinding in the glass with aromas of peach, pear, hazelnuts and dried white flowers, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction, the 2019 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its concentrated core of fruit framed by racy acids and chalky extract. Like the Pucelles, this is precise and fine boned, but it’s also more muscular and intense.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is cut from a similar cloth to the Les Pucelles on the nose: reserved, mineral-driven with hints of orange blossom emerging with time, later more Granny Smith apples. The palate is strict and precise, demonstrating impressive weight, especially towards the back end. Maybe not quite as complex as the best of Leflaive’s Premier Cru, though it is extremely pesistent with a long ginger-tinged aftertaste. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 94 VMThis lemon- and apple-flavored white is underlined by an oyster shell, iodine element. Complex and balanced, offering baking spice accents and a fine lingering finish of lemon and minerality on an open-knit frame. Best from 2024Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru White) Here the equally beautiful nose is quite similar to that of the Pucelles save for being much more restrained. Cool, pure and almost painfully intense flavors possess the same sleek, sophisticated and graceful texture as well as even better persistence on the youthfully austere, compact and wonderfully complex finale. This is a stunner of a Bienvenues. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 94-96 BH

From a 0.75ha plot at the top of the slope, in the Clos des Mouches, where Bichot owns some vines that give a wine of winning concentration. There is pleasantly ripe apricot and pear fruit, with a broad feel on the palate. Regal in stature, perhaps lacking a bit of acidity, although many will enjoy its rich character. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 92 DECBetter known for its red wines, this premier cru vineyard also has a plot of Chardonnay. Ripe with yellow fruits and toastiness, this wine has a full-bodied character, juggling crisp acidity with generous fruitiness and texture. Drink the wine from 2022.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThe 2019 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru Blanc has a vibrant, energetic bouquet, the citrus fruit, mango and white chocolate scents bursting from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a smooth, viscous opening. Good concentration here, and very long and sustained. This represents one of the best whites from Bichot this vintage. Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

(Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis "Montée de Tonnerre" 1er Cru White) A vague hint of the exotic is present on the wonderfully elegant lemony white orchard fruit scented nose that reflects additional notes of mineral reduction and oyster shell. The notably finer medium-bodied flavors possess excellent punch on the mineral-driven and chiseled finish that goes on and on. This is lovely and while it too will need better depth, the aging curve is sufficiently promising that I am optimistic that more complexity will develop over the next decade. In a word, terrific. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 94 BHThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is the sixth vintage that Dauvissat has produced of this climat, and he observes that it’s one of the few parcels he exploits that isn’t planted with the family’s proprietary massale selections. Exhibiting notions of citrus oil, fresh bread, iodine and warm pastry, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and lively, with fine tension at the core and a long, mineral finish. It’s the most approachable while young of these premiers crus.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2019 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from the domaine’s single 0.30-hectare parcel. It has a refined, very classic Chablis nose with wet pavement and light nutty aromas that remain discreetly in the background. The palate is slightly honeyed on the entry, spiced with touches of stem ginger, and delivers good depth, leading into an edgy, saline, powerful finish. You will probably have to give this 3–4 years in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

Subtly smoky and thrilling in minerality, this pure-fruited, lemon-scented Chablis highlights white peach and lime flavors etched by limestone and chalk. Despite a hot vintage, it’s a classic, cooling expression of Mont de Milieu vinified entirely in stainless steel. It’s at peak from 2023 to 2035 but the wine should hold longer still.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2019 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru has a clean, Alpine-scented bouquet that displays fine mineralité and tension. In the mouth, it’s fresh, vibrant and quite spicy on the midpalate, leading into an engaging, intense finish. This is a superb Mont de Milieu that should age with style. A Chablis with pedigree.Vinous Media | 93 VMMore depth and resolve on the nose here, with a deeper hue in the glass and some intriguing spice and woody notes on the palate. Good concentration with some refreshing citric acidity to finish. This shows the combination of ripeness and stony minerality which makes Mont de Milieu one of the leading Premier Crus. Drinking Window: 2021 - 2027Decanter | 92 DEC

The complex nose of candied citrus, flint, hazelnut and toasty oak leads you into this impressively rich and concentrated dry white for Pernand-Vergelesses. Very focused, super-elegant finish that has so much life. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSAn open-textured white, with apple, almond and baking spice flavors. Leans to the oxidative side, but there’s ample acidity and this actually picks up energy on the finish, turning more minerally and focused. Decant. Drink now through 2028. 500 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA touch of new wood influence is present on the fresh mix of white and yellow peach, citrus confit and anise hints. The round, rich and enveloping flavors also possess an attractive texture as well as better depth and persistence on the clean and dry finale.Burghound | 91 BH