Wines with Age

wines

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Pape Clement struts flamboyantly out of the glass, featuring beautifully opulent preserved black fruits, Morello cherries and Chinese five spice with underlying notions of truffles, iron ore and tobacco plus a waft of sandalwood. Full-bodied, the voluptuous fruit has a firm foundation of super ripe, grainy tannins and bags of freshness supporting layer upon layer of black fruit, exotic spices and earth-laced flavors, finishing very long.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPWonderful aromas of plums and blueberries and flowers. Full-bodied with plums, stones, hazelnuts and milk chocolate, and a long, long finish. Marvelous. Best ever. Try in 2017.James Suckling | 98 JSContinuing to drink beautifully (my last bottle was a handful of years ago), the 2009 Château Pape Clément offers mature notes of blackcurrants, chocolate, cedar pencil, and loamy earth. It shows the ripe, sexy style of the vintage, yet most of its baby fat has melted away and it’s showing a beautiful sense of elegance as well as classic Graves smoky, tobacco, and earthy aromas and flavors. Enjoy this beautiful, elegant wine any time over the coming 25+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDRich and muscular, with exotic roasted spice, braised fig and warm raspberry confiture notes that are supported by a broad baseline of dark cocoa, tar and freshly brewed espresso. Not shy about its modernity, but everything is in place. Just needs to settle in with cellaring. Best from 2015 through 2030. 7,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSAn early-ripening and generous wine in an early-ripening and generous year, this is full of the exuberance that it demonstrated when young. The terroir is starting to exert its influence now, with a lovely pull back on the finish as the tannins step up. It’s still youthful and buttoned down but the fruit is exotically ripe and really starting to come into its prime, with traces of heavy black pepper spice. Extremely good quality, if vintage led. Drinking Window 2019 - 2040Decanter | 95 DECThis is a richly structured wine with beautiful perfumes emanating from the bouquet. The rich, stalky texture is balanced by the flavors of dark chocolate and black currant jelly. It’s big, ripe and full of potential, a fine balance between opulence and ageworthiness.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2009 Pape-Clément has a very intense, slightly smudged bouquet with heady red fruit laced with smoke, hickory and light earthenware scents. It takes time to settle although, it does gain clarity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. I find the finish just missing the tension of precision conveyed by say, the 2010 or 2016, to name but two superior vintages. This is a very fine Pape-Clément, but they have produced even greater examples in recent years. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ Ten Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VM

This impressively complete wine offers up very ripe aromas of spice, earth and game that introduce strikingly rich, naturally sweet and mouth coating big-bodied flavors that explode on the formidably long finish. This is a classy wine with absolutely superb complexity, impeccable balance and almost uncanny presence, all delivered with grace and power. Be prepared to be patient however as this will need plenty of time. A ’wow’ wine that possess excellent verve, especially within the context of the ’09 vintage.Burghound | 96 BHThe opulent 2009 Clos de la Roche seems a bit more black fruity in its personality than the equally flamboyant, but much more red fruity 1985 version, at least at this early stage in its evolution. The nose is deep, pure and sappy, as it offers up scents of black cherries, plums, roasted venison, fresh herb tones, coffee and a very complex signature of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and powerfully built, with a huge core of sappy fruit, excellent focus and balance, suave, but substantial tannins and brilliant length and grip on the opulent and palate-staining finish. (Drink between 2020 - 2070)John Gilman | 96+ JGThe 2009 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is round, sweet and totally enveloping. It is a huge, towering Burgundy that impresses for its gorgeous inner perfume and juicy, exuberant fruit. This shows tons of richness without being heavy or overripe in any way. Anticipated maturity: 2029-2049.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-97 RPThe 2009 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is round, sweet and totally enveloping. It is a huge, towering wine that impresses for its gorgeous inner perfume and juicy, exuberant fruit. This shows tons of richness without being heavy or overripe in any way.Vinous Media | 94-97 VM

The wine has an opaque blue/black color and abundant notes of forest floor, spring flowers, black raspberry and blueberry liqueur in the aromatics along with hints of espresso and white chocolate. The wine is dense, full, rich, unctuously textured and very full-bodied, with its extravagant glycerin, fruit and extract covering the wine’s somewhat tannic structure. This is a bigger, more restrained and structured wine than the outrageously flamboyant and prodigious 2009. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 30-40 years.This property has been on fire, qualitatively speaking, for well over a decade. Another compelling effort from the Cuvelier family, the 2010 Clos Fourtet is a blend of 87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.5% alcohol. Yields were modest at 31 hectoliters per hectare. The harvest was late, starting at the very end of September and not finishing until the beginning of the third week of October.Robert Parker | 98 RPThe 2010 Clos Fourtet has a well defined and focused bouquet with tarry black fruit, black pepper and tobacco notes, almost equidistant between Left and Right Bank in style. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, supple and underpinned by a fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious towards the finish with well-integrated oak, this is a superb Saint-Émilion. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 95 VMVery winey, with a saturated, sappy feel as kirsch, blackberry preserves and blueberry coulis notes tumble around, while the frame of charcoal, smoldering tobacco and licorice root keeps them penned together. The tannin structure is significant, but very refined, and that should carry this through extended cellaring while the aromatics and midpalate develop harmony. Best from 2016 through 2030. 4,167 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA beautiful wine, with everything in the bottle. Blackberries, minerals and blueberries. Full and silky. Long, long finish.James Suckling | 93-94 JSThis chunky, fruity wine is full bodied and rich. It shows all the structure and weight of the vintage allied to ripe black fruits and a dense texture edged with minerality. Still very firm and youthful, it will need many years to mature.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Dense purple, with classic notes of cedar and lead pencil shavings as well as gobs of back currants and licorice, the wine has a full-bodied mouthfeel with fabulous precision and density. It also possesses a long, silky finish with moderately high tannins, but they are ripe and well-integrated. The wood is clearly pushed to the background in this dense, full-bodied Pauillac, which should drink beautifully for 30+ years.If you can’t afford Lafite-Rothschild (few can)or even their second wine, Carruades de Lafite, you still have Duhart Milon, which has become a profound wine over the last 5-7 years due to the extensive amount of attention and investment the Rothschilds have pumped into this estate. This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot is fabulous, a dead ringer for Lafite in a great vintage. (It is probably better than many of the Lafites of the 1960s and 1970s, and even some of the vintages in the 1980s).Robert Parker | 96 RPGravel over limestone, similar to Château Lafite Rothschild and under the same ownership. Cooler northern exposure of the terroir requires more time to ripen, but that was no problem in 2010. This has ripe fruit with graphite and wet stone. It may not be as dense as Clerc Milon, but the expression of finesse and refinement is unmistakable. Long, subtle finish. Pleasing, high-toned fruit perfectly matches grilled lamb chops with roast potatoes. Drinking Window 2021 - 2045.Decanter | 95 DECLike a lot of 2010s, the 2010 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild is tight and backward, yet has serious potential. Sporting a deep ruby/purple color and classic notes of currants, lead pencil shavings, cedarwood and saddle leather, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a tight, firm focused texture and beautiful concentration. Its tannins are present, yet ripe and integrated, and it has the purity and freshness that’s the hallmark of this great, great vintage. Give bottles another 2-3 years and it should keep for two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 94+ JDThe 2010 Duhart-Milon has a backward nose that is going through a dumb phase. There is plenty of fruit here but it is “locked down” at the moment. The palate is very well defined with crisp acidity, fine-boned tannins and superb balanced. It is not a deep or grippy Pauillac, but it feels...streamlined, athletic and wonderfully poised on the graphite infused finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 93 VMA wine with an intense sous bois, fresh tobacco and dried flower character on the nose and palate. Full body, with ultra-fine tannins and an attractive finish. It’s structured yet polished with a beauty and stature. Try in 2015.James Suckling | 93 JSJuicy black currant fruit mingles with bright acidity and dark-chocolate tannins. This often overlooked château, with the same production team as Lafite-Rothschild, has an intense and concentrated 2010, balanced superbly between firmness and fruitiness.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEWell-polished, with sleek edges to the fleshy plum, cassis and blackberry fruit, while the finish is embedded with black licorice and violet notes. Approachable now, but the stuffing is there to cellar this for a bit. Drink now through 2025.Wine Spectator | 91 WS(Château Duhart-Milon) While both the Carruades and Lafite steer clear of any signs of overripeness in this vintage, the same cannot be said for the 2010 Château Duhart-Milon, which, while not overtly overripe, does show a rather forceful personality that is rather out of character. The bouquet is deep, very ripe and quite powerful, as it offers up scents of cassis, dark berries, cigar ash, gravelly soil tones, tobacco leaf and new oak. On the palate the wine is full, broad-shouldered and really a bit four-square at the present time, with a rock solid core, plenty of firm, well-integrated tannins and a very good grip on the long and palate-staining finish. This will need some extended cellaring to soften, but it is hard to imagine that it will ever develop the customary charm of this property. This is another 2010 where the ripeness of the vintage has seemingly robbed this wine of a bit of focus and detail, and it is an open question if those qualities can be revived with extended cellaring. (Drink between 2022-2050)John Gilman | 88-90+ JG

Another spectacular effort from L’Evangile, the 2010 is a close rival to the 2009 and should be fascinating to compare with that vintage over the next 30 or so years. Stunningly rich and black/purple in color, the 2010 L’Evangile offers up the tell-tale floral note as well as black raspberry jam intermixed with cassis and kirsch. There are also ethereal floral notes and a hint of background oak. The pH is slightly above average (3.7 versus the pH of 4.0 that the 2009 and 2000 possessed). This is a massive, rich, very impressive L’Evangile, and readers should take note of the “+” in my rating, which could certainly push this wine way up there. Remarkably, I was shocked when I learned that this wine was aged in 100% new oak, as the oak is a background element in this blockbuster l’Evangile. Forget it for 3-5 years, and drink it over the following 30-40.With an alcohol level hitting the scales at 14.8%, the 2,000 cases of 2010 L’Evangile come from a blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, which I assume is much less Cabernet Franc than what was used under the old administration of the Ducasse family versus what is being done now by Eric de Rothschild and his team. The new administrators have added some vineyard parcels from neighboring sites, particularly Le Croix de Gay, and they have also replanted part of this vineyard, which sits on the St.-Emilion border next to La Conseillante and facing Cheval Blanc and La Dominique.Robert Parker | 98+ RPA Pomerol of a different color, relying heavily on dense muscle and dark charcoal notes, with a core of fig, blackberry paste and blueberry reduction waiting in reserve. Very solid through the finish, displaying a thick ganache coating and extra loam, black licorice and dark fig notes rolling through. Best from 2017 through 2037. 3,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSConcentrated and closed on the nose, this has silky, seductive, finely-layered tannins, with tons of fruit and acidity providing the counterpoint. We are very definitely stepping up a level here, even among the extremely good quality wines that I am tasting. The depth and texture are striking, as are the exotic notes of anis and black peppercorns, and the whispers of iris and violet flowers as things open up in the glass. Such a lovely property, really showing what it can do.Decanter | 97 DECSuperb aromas of blackberry, blueberry, violets and citrus peel. Some oyster shell and dark chocolate. Full body, dense and powerful with chewy tannins and lots of rich fruit at the finish. Turns to walnut and dark berry. I love the texture and richness. A wine to follow for your lifetime. Just opening a little now.James Suckling | 96 JSGood medium ruby. Enticing aromas of dark plum, blackcurrant, coffee liqueur and cinnamon are lifted by an intense note of violet. Sweet, lush and round, combining a fine-grained texture and terrific focus thanks to vibrant but harmonious acidity. Finishes very long and pure, with ripe but still youthfully chewy tannins. This very attractive 2010 ought to evolve gracefully for decades.Vinous Media | 94 VM(Château l’Évangile) The 2010 Château l’Évangile is one of the big-boned wines in Pomerol in this vintage, with an alcohol content of 14.6 percent, due to eighty-eight percent of the blend this year being comprised of merlot. The wine offers up a very deep, complex and slightly overripe nose of black raspberries, black cherries, chocolate, a bit of new leather, some meaty tones, soil and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite well-balanced for its high octane, but with a slightly marinated aspect to the fruit tones. The finish is very long, ripely tannic and tangy, but with both the substantial tannins and the tangy acids very well-integrated into the body of the wine. This will probably never be the most refined of vintages of Château l’Évangile, but if it can shed a bit of its overripe qualities with bottle age, it should place at the higher end of the scale. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 87-92 JG

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Lafite Rothschild is a little mute on the nose at this stage, opening to reveal warm blackcurrants, baked plums and boysenberry scents with hints of chocolate mint, violets, cedar chest and pencil lead. Full-bodied, rich and densely packed with perfumed black fruit layers, it has a rock-solid backbone of fantastically ripe, grainy tannins and beautiful freshness, finishing very long and minerally. Still very youthful!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPInky colour, more so than in many years of Lafite, imprinted by the vintage. It is at this level, in these type of years, where you see why these terroirs have stood out for centuries. We are in a crowded field of excellence in Pauillac in 2010, and yet still the First Growths manage to deliver an extra heartbeat of brilliance. This is still extremely closed, and I have no hesitation in saying that when Lafite is planning its 250th anniversary celebrations that this will be one of the wines that it chooses, just as we all marvelled at the 1893 in the summer of 2018. Blocks of liquorice and black chocolate come through alongside the tannins, standing guard to ensure the fruits don’t escape before they are ready to do so. There are vintages where Lafite is sculpted, liquid elegance (like 2017, speaking of one I have recently tasted), and where it stands out against the vintage, and then there are other years when it epitomises why the vintage is so good, and that is where we are here. It has less obvious muscles than the Latour but every bit of the strength. Drinking Window 2025 - 2050.Decanter | 100 DECAlmost black in color, this stunning wine is gorgeous, rich and dense. It’s grand and powerful, with a strong sense of its own importance. The beautiful tannins and the fragrant black currant fruits are palpable. It’s a great wine, with huge potential.Wine Enthusiast | 100 WEThis is shy and not giving its all at the moment. Yet it is full and intense with a tightly intertwined tannic and fruit structure. Ethereal blackberry, currant, cedar, and nutty flavors. Dried flowers too. Cedar jewel box smell comes out with time. Great finish. So, so long and harmonious. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 99 JSRather tight, with an alluring whiff of cocoa that lures you in before disappearing into the core of steeped plum, roasted fig and blackberry coulis notes. Sandalwood, black tea and loam elements fill in on the long and expansive finish. This seems to be lying in wait for what could be a very long time in the cellar before unfurling fully. Best from 2018 through 2045. 15,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2010 Lafite-Rothschild has more vivacious bouquet than expected with veins of blue fruit and iodine tincturing the black fruit. It is well defined if just missing the audacity of the Latour. The palate is approachable on the entry with fine grain tannins. It feels a touch more mature than the other First Growths, though the pliant and poised finish has a sensuality uncommon in Lafite. Superb. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 96 VM(Château Lafite Rothschild) As is the case with the 2010 Carruades, the 2010 Lafite Rothschild is very impressive for its more restrained personality out of the blocks than the more opulent and seductive 2009. The bouquet is deep and notably ripe, but at the same time there is a sense of structure here that was not particularly evident in the ’09, as the wine soars from the glass in a very refined blend of cassis, dark berries, coffee bean, complex, gravelly soil tones, cigar smoke, tobacco leaf and lead pencil. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite powerful in profile, with a rock solid core of fruit, flawless focus and balance, plenty of firm, well-integrated tannins and outstanding length and grip on the quite reserved finish. This is much more classically styled than the 2009 Lafite, and while both wines are beautifully crafted, the 2010 seems at this early stage to be a step up in quality. A wonderful Lafite for the cellar. (Drink between 2025-2100).John Gilman | 96 JG

Extraordinary on release, and just as extraordinary today at close to 10 years in age, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Quet checks in as 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre that was brought up in a mix of concrete tanks and used barrels. It’s a monster of a wine and offers a huge nose of blackcurrants, melted licorice, black truffles, nori, and gamey meats. Deep, opulent, and about as hedonistic as they come, it nevertheless stays light on its feet, flawlessly balanced, has no hard edges, and is one of the greatest Châteauneuf du Papes I’ve had the privilege to drink. It’s just now at the early stages of its drinking plateau and I’d wager has another 10-15 years of prime drinking.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe remarkable 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Quet boasts a dark ruby/purple color along with a stunning bouquet of spring flowers, cranberries, black raspberries, blueberries, forest floor, incense and bouquet garni. The wine builds incrementally in the mouth, and the finish lasts nearly a minute. This amazingly full-bodied, gorgeously pure Chateauneuf du Pape has everything one could desire in a dry red wine. Enjoy it over the next 20+ years.Robert Parker | 100 RPA hefty version, carved from a block of baker's chocolate and espresso to reveal extra notes of singed cedar, roasted fig, steeped black currant, licorice root and Black Forest cake. The long, muscular finish still has serious grip to shed and will require patient cellaring. Best from 2015 through 2030. 350 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS75% grenache and 25% mourvedre): Glass-staining purple. Heady, spice-accented aromas of dark fruit liqueur, cola, licorice and candied violet. Broad-shouldered and deeply concentrated, offering sweet cassis and blueberry flavors that show a distinctly ripe character. Tannins build with air and carry through an impressively long, smoky finish that strongly echoes the blueberry and licorice notes. This masculine, brawny wine has shaped up very nicely since last year but it will never impress with finesse.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

There is by contrast super richness and a lovely minerality to the vibrant and tension-filled medium-bodied flavors that enjoy very ripe tannins that add to the moderate sense of austerity on the impressive long finish. In contrast to the Griotte this is not likely to be nearly as accessible young.Burghound | 91-94 BH

(Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) In stark contrast to the expressiveness of the Clos St. Denis, this is almost mute and even aggressive swirling liberates only the briefest glimpses of wild red berries and earth notes. There is superb size and weight to the imposing and overtly muscular flavors that also enjoy an incredible amount of dry extract that confers a supple and seductively textured mouth feel to the highly concentrated mid-palate. The presently buried tannins are intense and markedly firm though not hard on the explosively long finish that seems to go on and on. This should be something very special if given sufficient time to reach its apogee. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 95-97 BH

An absolutely amazing wine, from grapes harvested between the end of September and October 17, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot has close to 15% natural alcohol. It comes from one of the few biodynamic vineyards in Bordeaux, but you are likely to see many more, given the success that Tesseron seems to be having at all levels, both in his vineyards and in his fermentation/winemaking. An astounding, compelling wine with the classic Pauillac nose more often associated with its cross-street neighbor, Mouton-Rothschild, creme de cassis, there are also some violets and other assorted floral notes. The wine has off-the-charts massiveness and intensity but never comes across as heavy, overbearing or astringent. The freshness, laser-like precision, and full-bodied, massive richness and extract are simply remarkable to behold and experience. It is very easy, to become jaded tasting such great wines from a great vintage, but it is really a privilege to taste something as amazing as this. Unfortunately, it needs a good decade of cellaring, and that’s assuming it doesn’t close down over the next few years. This is a 50- to 75-year wine from one of the half-dozen or so most compulsive and obsessive proprietors in all of Bordeaux. Is there anything that proprietor Alfred Tesseron is not doing right? Talk about an estate that is on top of its game! Pontet-Canet’s 2010 is a more structured, tannic and restrained version of their most recent perfect wine, the 2009. Kudos to Pontet-Canet!Robert Parker | 100 RPThe aromas to this are incredible with blueberry, minerals, dried flowers, and stones. It goes to dried meat and spices. Full body and incredibly integrated with blackberry, licorice, and minerals. There’s a wonderful purity to this. It goes on for minutes. The quality of tannins is amazing. Seamless. There’s an amazing transparency that shows you all the elements of the wine’s unique terrior. Try after 2018.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2010 Pontet-Canet lags behind the 2009, but these two vintages can be hard to compare due the drastically different styles. Where the 2009 is broad, expansive, and showy, the 2010 starts our more reserved and classic in style, with beautiful notes of cassis, cedarwood, lead pencil shavings, tobacco, and damp earth all developing with air. Deep, beautifully concentrated, full-bodied, and powerful, it’s built for the long haul and needs 5-7 years of bottle age, but I suspect will see its 50th birthday in still fine drinking form.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDDense, yes, but this is also a handsome wine that balances complex tannins with pure black currant fruits that shine. This biodynamic wine has a generous, full and rich feel, ripe with just a touch of restraint. The greatness of the wine shows in its purity with a deceptive simplicity that hides the final complex tannins and structure.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThis is big, broad and powerfully rendered, but remarkably polished and refined at the same time. An enormous core of roasted fig, blackberry and black currant fruit is suavely wrapped with roasted apple wood and sandalwood, while dark espresso, loam and warm paving stone notes drive the finish. Very long, with a great tug of scorched earth at the end. A terrific combination of power and precision. Best from 2020 through 2040. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Château Pontet-Canet, Merlot, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, Red) Class in glass. Deep ruby, youthful tone. Such sumptuous red berry, cassis and tobacco aromas. Juicy and full bodied, with smoothly textured tannins. The creamy mid palate texture is framed by an impressive arc of tension and balancing acidity, ensuring long life. Long finish. Super! Aged 50% new oak. (Drink between 2021-2060)Decanter | 97 DECThe 2010 Pontet-Canet is noticeably deep in colour compared to its peers. This is unusually ripe and sweet on the nose, more red than black fruit, maybe a little jammy and confit-like. I would never guess this was a 2010 Left Bank. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy mouthfeel, plenty of graphite tinged red fruit. Approachable in style and sensually fulfilling, it just lacks a bit of grip and backbone on the finish. I have fonder memories of previous bottles but I could not identify any specific fault. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 92 VM

(one-third whole clusters): Good deep ruby-red. Smoky aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry and spices. Broad and fine-grained but tightly wound today, with serious but suave tannins currently dominating the wine’s fruit. This will need at least a few years of bottle aging upon release.Vinous Media | 90+ VMSoft floral hints add a touch of elegance to the pretty red currant, plum and earth aromas. There is once again a really lovely sense of underlying energy to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess admirable purity of expression, all wrapped in a mouth coating, linear and highly persistent finish. There is some youthful austerity and a hint of dryness present but the harmony is such that this should come together in time.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, which comes from the domaine’s two parcels that total just over one hectarewas raised in 25% new oak. It includes one-third whole-cluster fruit and during elevage this cru tended to be reduced and therefore underwent more remontage than usual. The nose is difficult to discern at the moment and I feel that at this juncture it needs to divine more focus. The palate is better with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. The finish is masculine, foursquare but well-delineated, swerving towards an unexpected ferrous finish. This will need 4-5 years in bottle and should delight with bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Bright red. Sappy black raspberry on the very ripe but energetic nose. A juicy, nicely balanced midweight with excellent dark fruit intensity and persistence. Finishes with a note of torrefaction.Vinous Media | 90 VMA cool and pure nose of red currant, earth and a hint of spice introduces detailed, energetic and delicious middle weight flavors that display excellent depth and length in the context of the appellation. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru from Joseph Drouhin was another Clos-de-Bèze (alongside that of Chanson’s) that completely surpassed its showing out of barrel. It has a clean and refined bouquet with cola-tinged red berry fruit (cranberry leaf and raspberry) with touches of rooibos and bergamot emerging just behind. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin, impressive depth but with some new oak that clearly needs to be assimilated. Everything is being held back at the moment, but the class and stature here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2012 Clos de Bèze had been bottled at the end of October, but was still showing very well in mid-November, wafting from the glass in a superb aromatic constellation of black cherries, cassis, espresso, black minerality, grilled meats, mustard seed, woodsmoke and a lovely base of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with beautiful transparency, a sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins, excellent focus and balance and a very, very long, poised and nascently complex finish. Given that this was just bottled, I would expect it to place at the upper end of the range when it has fully recovered. Great juice in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 94-95+ JG(bottled at the end of October; includes some purchased grapes; vinified with 10% whole clusters): Bright, full red. Restrained nose hints at red fruits and smoky underbrush. Then sweet, silky and dense on the palate, showing considerable power as well as some spicy high tones. Saline, serious wine with an obvious sweet oak component and very good sneaky length. This wine spent 26 days on its skins. A bit shocked by the recent bottling, so my score should be viewed as provisional.Vinous Media | 92+ VMA spicy, cool and highly restrained nose features notes of various red berries, earth, humus and a hint of the sauvage. There is plenty of minerality that adds lift to the relatively supple middle weight flavors that are shaped by fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in a toasty finish that displays very good but not truly distinguished depth and length. To be sure the 2012 Bèze is a quality effort but it doesn’t seem, at least not at this very early juncture, to have that extra dimension present in say the Griotte or Musigny.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2012 vintage of Clos de la Roche from Domaine Dujac is still a very, very young wine, but it is going to be magnificent in the fullness of time. Today it offers up superb purity and transparency, though still a tad marked by its new oak component in this very early stage. The bouquet is a fine, fine blend of red and black cherries, plums, raw cocoa, a fine base of soil and plenty of smoky new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and marvelously soil-driven for such a young wine, with a sappy core of fruit, fine focus and grip and a very long, suavely tannic finish. The balance here is just perfect, and once the new wood is fully integrated into the base of the wine, it will probably close down for an extended period of hibernation. I would not touch it again until it has celebrated its twentieth birthday- not because it is not going to be impressive to drink younger- but there is so much waiting in the wings here that it is crazy not to give this great wine time to develop all aspects of its beauty! Drink between 2032-2075.John Gilman | 96 JGDujac's 2012 Clos de La Roche bristles with palpable energy and intensity. One of the more polished wines in the range, the Clos de la Roche is all about saline-infused energy and brilliance today. I very much like the precision here, but time has shown that the Clos de la Roche only starts to blossom with considerable bottle age. Today, the layers of dimension are present, but also compacted. In a few years, the 2012 will be truly magical.Vinous Media | 96 VMThere is enough reduction to notice though not so much as to completely dominate the floral-suffused nose. This also possesses relatively fine-grained tannins though there is notably more size, weight and power as well as a bit more complexity to the mineral-driven and impeccably well-balanced finish that is both explosive and palate staining. This is most impressive as it manages to deliver stunning intensity and depth of material without any undue heaviness. Note however that this is one very structured wine that will require a lengthy stay in a cool cellar to arrive at its full peak. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 95 BHThe 2012 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru had a lot of reduction on the nose, but the palate tannic and masculine, dark and introspective yet well balanced with a crescendo of flavors towards an energetic, spicy finish that leave the tongue tingling after the wine has departed. This looks like being a vin de garde, such is the grip and forcefulness of this wine.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 94-96 RP-NM

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which will contain some new oak although I tasted from a used barrel, has a tightly knit bouquet that at the moment is less expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin. The palate is crisp and pure, quite tensile, with a spiciness that becomes more prominent toward the fleshy, harmonious finish. Curiously, even from a used barrel the texture feels as if there is some new oak, but that is just the concentration of fruit coming through. Frédéric enthused about this wine and I suspect that it may surpass my expectations once in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2013 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Rousseau saw ten percent new wood in this vintage, with the remainder of the barrels used for the elevage primarily one wine casks. The wine was a touch reduced at the time of my visit, but opened up with some swirling to reveal a promising bouquet of red and black cherries, meaty tones, dark soil, woodsmoke, a touch of mustard seed and a discreet base of nutty oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, long and very pure on the attack, with a fine core, ripe tannins and a long, youthfully reticent and tangy finish. This will be a lovely vintage for this wine, but like the Mazy, it deserves a decade in the cellar to really come into its own. (Drink between 2023 - 2055)John Gilman | 92-93+ JGAn unusually high-toned nose is comprised by a pretty array of red berry fruit, earth and Asian style tea nuances. There is really lovely detail and vibrancy to the middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the restrained and lingering finish. This delivers surprisingly good flavor authority given that this is not nearly as concentrated as the best in the range. In sum this is a beautifully well-delineated wine of harmony if not power that should reward mid to longer-term aging as the supporting tannins are also dense but fine.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was impressive from barrel, but in bottle I found it coming up a bit short. Firstly, it is extremely reduced on the nose and after two or three hours there is little change. It is dense and muscular, very concentrated in style (perhaps atypically for this cuvée from Rousseau) and yet the finish feels a bit chunky and lacks finesse. Yes, it is too young, but here it is easily surpassed by Cathiard’s Malconsorts. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Black cherry, raspberry and pepper flavors mark this vibrant red, holding back for now, but showing a sense of the depth and saturated fruit. The finish is firm and chalky, but this will open up with air and time. Best from 2019 through 2032. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a feisty, much more gourmand bouquet compared to its siblings at this early stage with almost meaty red berry fruit infused with limestone/flinty scents. The palate is very focused with an abiding sense of symmetry, long in the mouth with fine tannins (although not as filigree as the Taillepieds) but with the same silky and harmonious texture toward the long finish. Excellent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPBright medium red. Alluring superripe aromas of black cherry, mint and bitter chocolate: I would have guessed that this wine was vinified with some whole clusters but in fact it was entirely destemmed. A rather powerful Volnay with a slightly high-toned, almost porty ripeness to its black cherry, dark berry and chocolate flavors, but strong, slightly peppery acidity gives it a penetrating, somewhat disjointed quality in the early going. This deep, chewy Volnay finishes with big, granular tannins and excellent persistence.Vinous Media | 92+ VMReduction. Here there is more size, weight and power to the detailed and more subtly mineral-driven flavors that also possess a lovely texture on the dusty, palate coating and linear finish. This is impressively long and well-balanced though at present not quite as complex.Burghound | 90-93 BH

Healthy dark red. Highly complex but youthfully restrained nose offers scents of black fruits, violet, chocolate, menthol and minerals, along with some faintly liqueur-like high tones. Boasts outstanding density of texture, not to mention great lift and power for this bottling, with almost exotic fruit ripeness leavened by strong acidity. Finishes with spectacular lingering perfume of violet, bitter chocolate, wild herbs and mint. An amazingly strong, bulletproof Volnay for the year--or for any vintage, for that matter.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis red offers well-defined cherry, currant and spice flavors, supported by vibrant acidity. Saturated with pure, ripe cherry fruit midpalate, this firms up, yet remains balanced and mouthwatering on the long finish, showing spice and chalk accents. Best from 2018 through 2030. 95 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today. Even so, the best is clearly yet to come. Patience will be rewarded.Vinous Media | 99 VMSubtle aromas of cherry, wild herb and tobacco introduce this sleek, complex version, while cherry, strawberry, loam, iron and tobacco flavors build in intensity to the extended finish. But what truly defines this superb and silky Barolo is the texture and harmony, with a fine weave to the dense tannins. All the components come together on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2050. 1,666 cases made.Wine Spectator | 99 WSWarm aromas of plums, rose petals and spices with hints of sandalwood. Some tar. Full body, dense center palate with glorious fruit and a fantastic finish. Very, very polished and fine tannins. Vertical and deep. A great Monfortino. Try in 2023.James Suckling | 99 JSI have been tasting this wine from barrel for the past two years and now finally, abracadabra, the 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is safely housed in bottle. The wine was bottled in June of last year and will hit the market this upcoming October. The Barolo Francia was not produced in 2013 because Roberto Conterno diverted all fruit from that vineyard to this wine. Monfortino was not produced in 2011 or 2012, meaning that this 2013 edition follows directly after the absolutely stunning 2010 vintage (which earned a perfect 100-point score). The two vintages (2010 and 2013) are very similar, strikingly so, but the 2013 vintage registers at a slightly lower structural threshold. The tannins are slightly looser, or softer in the case of this wine. With up to six years in botte, the 2010 vintage is still crunchy and super sharp, while this wine is slightly more succulent and earthy. Some 20,000 bottles, 2,500 magnums and 400 three-liter bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPAfter the celebrated 2010, Monfortino is not disappointing in the cool and classic 2013 vintage as it suffers more in the warm vintages than the fresher ones. This Riserva is rich with fresh and savoury aromas of red cassis, cherry and blood orange, full of cinnamon spice and balsamic notes with a minty finish that’s intoxicating in its depth. On the palate it’s velvety with pleasant and ripe tannins and full and consistent structure. Overall, it’s perfectly balanced and will age for decades but is delicious for drinking now.Decanter | 97 DEC

A rich style, until the firm structure of vibrant acidity and dusty tannins reveals itself, supporting plenty of cherry, black currant, tobacco and mineral flavors. The essence of black currant lingers on an ethereal frame. Best from 2023 through 2042. 56 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Mazy-Chambertin- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2014 Rousseau version of Mazy-Chambertin is an absolutely quintessential expression of this fine terroir, wafting from the glass in a black fruity blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, black minerality, a touch of currant leaf, roasted game and a discreet topnote of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure on the attack, with great transparency, a lovely core of fruit, ripe tannins and a very, very long, tangy and laser-like finish. (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 2014 Mazy Chambertin Grand Cru saw 10% new oak and a touch of reduction appeared to accentuate that. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. I like the weight here. There is more body and density than the Charmes-Chambertin, though with the same finesse on the lightly spiced finish. Once the aromatics sort themselves out, this will be a very fine Mazy-Chambertin, though the Charmes has more charm.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92-94 RP-NMModerate reduction renders the nose unreadable. On the plus side there is really lovely freshness and energy to the tautly muscular and slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors that culminate in an overtly austere and powerful yet not hard finale that goes on and on. This is really quite serious and note well that it's not an especially good candidate for early drink.Burghound | 91-94 BH(aged in 10% new oak, but most of the rest of the wine was racked into very young barrels in June): Healthy medium red. Sexy oak notes of coffee, mocha and spices complement dark cherry, berries, red licorice and wild herbs on the nose. Juicy and perfumed in the mouth, conveying an enticing hint of sweetness to the tangy black raspberry, spice, licorice and saline flavors. Finishes with firm, fine-grained tannins and noteworthy aromatic persistence, as well as a touch of roundness from the bit of new oak used for the first time for this cuvée. Previously, this wine has typically been more austere at this stage.Vinous Media | 90-93 VM

Intense red-fruits nose, quite oaky. Rich, velvety and lavish with fine-grained tannins. Very concentrated, spicy and peppery, but not extracted or heavy. Good length.Decanter Magazine | 92 DECThis is markedly reduced at present so I would strongly suggest decanting it if you are tempted to open a bottle young. Otherwise the supple, round and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors possess a sleek muscularity and solid intensity, all wrapped in a lingering finish that presently displays a hint of an edge that may or may not ever round off. As such my rating is a compromise as I suspect that this will develop even better complexity with age and thus even if the balance isn’t perfect, the ’14 Clos des Epeneaux should still make for a lovely wine.Burghound | 91 BHTasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux from Comte Armand has quite a nuanced nose with dusky red berry fruit, autumn leaves and a touch of stewed black tea. I like the cohesion and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, nicely balanced and supple in the mouth. There is something easy-drinking and approachable about this Pommard: well crafted and with satisfying tension. While not the greatest in recent vintages, this is still a pleasurable Pommard that overcame the hail that destroyed 90% of the vineyard that year. Tasted September 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPStill a bright red centre though turning a little at the edges. Fresh bright red fruit on the nose. The acidity keeps it bright at the back but this does not have the natural balance of 2017. The component parts should come together in another three to five years. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Medium deep red, some green notes to the bouquet. Whole bunches. Develops more florally. There is real concentration here, an impressive intensity that will deliver something impressive in the long run, but only to those prepared to tolerate a measure of under-ripeness. DIAM 30 Tasted Sep 2017.Jasper Morris | 91 JM(100% vendange entier; 35% new oak): Good medium red. Subdued aromas and flavors of raspberry, black cherry, earth and smoky minerality accented by hints of pepper and herbs from the stems. Broad, ripe and smooth but quite dry. Displays very good spicy energy, length and lift but the substantial dusty tannins leave the finish a bit clenched today. This slightly edgy wine will need patience.Vinous Media | 90+ VMAn overtly floral-inflected nose displays a lovely, fresh and again cool array of spice, red pinot fruit and a hint of wet stone. The stony character can also be found in abundance on the highly energetic, chiseled and saline yet attractively rich medium-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding length on the dusty and mildly austere but very well-balanced finale. This is terrific but note well that patience will be required.Burghound | 90-93 BH

A juicy, vibrant style, this boasts currant, wild cherry and spice flavors. Linear and silky, with a chewy finish. Well-proportioned, but needs time to integrate. Best from 2019 through 2032. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Charmoix offers a pleasant raspberry coulis and strawberry nose, with just a touch of marmalade in the background lending some exoticism. The palate is smooth and silky, supple, almost nubile in the mouth with rounded tannin, good density though just needing a little more nervosité to come through towards the finish, though that seems to develop in the glass. Good potential here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP