Wines with Age

wines

Lean, piquant raspberry nose showing finesse rather than power. Sleek and poised red fruits, silky and stylish. This is very polished, with ripe tannins and no rough edges. A wine of beauty rather than force, it should age very well. Drinking Window: 2019 - 2035Decanter | 95 DECA wonderfully spicy, elegant and fresh nose blends notes of red and dark cherry with those of cassis, plum, violet and discreet earth nuances. The intense and tautly muscular middle weight plus flavors are even more refined if perhaps not quite as mineral-driven while delivering superb length on the balanced but markedly austere finish where a touch of cherry pit emerges. This is also very clearly built-to-age and I wouldn’t dream of touching a bottle for at least 10 years and it should easily reward 20.Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2015 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has the most composed bouquet of Laurent Ponsot’s grand crus from the Gevrey appéllation, with seductive scents of black cherry, wild strawberry and crushed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and crisp acidity, pretty dark cherries and blueberry here with a slither of Seville orange marmalade on the finish. It is a satisfactory Griotte Chambertin, although I would like to see more depth, more energy conveyed towards the finish.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 90-92 RP-NM

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux has a dense, slightly sultry bouquet that gradually unfurls and reveals blackberry, briary and wild strawberry aromas laced with granite and a touch of smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fleshy and generous with a fine bead of acidity, fanning out with a sense of confidence on the minerally finish. I like the swagger of this Gevrey and it should age with panache.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPAn overtly sauvage-inflected nose offers up very ripe liqueur-like aromas of plum, violet, earth and a discreet but not invisible touch of wood influence. Once again there is excellent volume and concentration to the sappy and velvety middle weight flavors that display focused power on the energetic finish where the very firm tannins are seamlessly integrated. There are hints of wood and warmth present on the backend but otherwise this is pretty much textbook Corbeaux.Burghound | 92 BHGood dark red. Less obviously ripe on the nose than the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes but conveying more soil-driven complexity to its aromas of raspberry, spices, violet and licorice. At once dense and juicy, showing lovely energy and definition but a bit youthfully imploded today. Saline soil tones add interest to this very youthful 2015, which finishes with rising floral persistence. These vines are now about 50 years old but winemaker Bachotet told me that recent vineyard work to force the vines’ roots deeper is now resulting in smaller grapes and more concentrated wine.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

A pungent but pretty nose is comprised by notes of wood, freshly sliced plum, cassis and earth. There is even better punch and mid-palate concentration to the moderately stony and beautifully well-detailed flavors that also display focused power on the broad-shouldered, firm and driving finish. Good stuff if you have the patience to allow this at least 6 years at a minimum and to see this at full maturity, 12 to 15 years of bottle age.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes was one of the most backward of Serafin’s 2015s when I tasted the wine at the domaine. The palate is medium-bodied, structured and masculine with a vice-like grip in the mouth, plus a chalky texture on the finish. It feels brutish at the moment compared to the Gevrey Corbeaux, but bottle age should mellow it out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with blackberry, redcurrant and cranberry scents laced with tobacco and woodland aromas. Lovely definition and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, enormous depth and great concentration, perhaps the most Musigny-esque of the Bonnes-Mares. Great length but it needs some serious cellaring. Enormous potential here. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMAs usual, Clair’s Bonnes-Mares will be a wine for the long haul. A detailed nose of cassis, wild rose, currant leaf, incipient venison and a gentle framing of new oak precedes a vibrant, taut and full-bodied palate, its tannins rich but chalky, even firm. This is tight-knit and full of energy - promising for those willing to wait a good fifteen years.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECClear bright colour with a softly oaked bouquet and some weight of fruit behind. Quite an elegant wine. Not hugely concentrated on the palate but with attractive light fruit and fair length. Tasted Sep 2019.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a very stern bouquet, quite distant at first, then gradually almost reluctantly unfurling with sea-influenced black fruit, hints of brine and oyster shell in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boded tannin, foursquare for a Bonnes Mares, eschewing flamboyance for something more noble. This is certainly a more Morey-inspired Bonnes Mares than Chambolle, but nevertheless is a very fine wine of considerable breeding.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPLike the Bèze there is a moderate lashing of toasty oak framing the spiced mix of various red berries, earth and floral hints. There is even more power if not necessarily more size and weight to the big-bodied and very serious flavors that flex plenty of muscle on the superbly persistent finish. This knockout effort is even more structured than its grand cru counterpart and again, this will indisputably not be a wine for early drinking.Burghound | 93-95 BH