Wines with Age

wines

(Clos St. Denis- Domaine Dujac) When we started to taste the quite reserved 2013 Clos St. Denis, Jeremy Seysses chuckled, as he observed that “this wine was wide open yesterday and it was the Clos de la Roche that was shut down, and now today, it is the inverse.” In any case, this closed and grumpy wine is clearly going to be just fine in the fullness of time, as with some coaxing it reluctantly reveals an aromatic constellation of cherries, red plums, cloves, herb tones, woodsmoke, gamebirds, superb soil nuances and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and tightly-knit, with a great soil signature, ripe tannins, bright acids and fine length and grip on the closed, but intensely flavored finish. All this needs is time. (Drink between 2023-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGFull, dark red. Captivating rose petal lift to the aromas of red fruits, iron and minerals; less earthy and more ethereal than the Clos de la Roche. Also juicier and tighter in the mouth, showing less early sweetness but terrific acid spine and lift to the sappy flavors of raspberry and salty minerals. This wine has really put on weight since its bottling, noted Diane Snowden. But it still boasts terrific cut and inner-mouth tension. Lay this one down.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2013 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath that there is a floral note and what appears to be fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied and takes time to coalesce in the glass, but it eventually finds good structure and an intriguing coconut note on the finish. Quite dense in the mouth, there is an appealing salinity within this Grand Cru, but I would give it 4 or 5 years before broaching a bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM(Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) This is both more aromatically restrained and more elegant than the Clos de la Roche with its reluctant nose of rose petal, spiced tea and red and dark berry fruit aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the refined middle weight flavors that exude a discreet bead of minerality that adds a bit of lift to the intense, balanced, focused and beautifully balanced finish. Textbook Clos St. Denis. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin from the Drouhin family was one of the few grand crus that I tasted that had already been bottled at the time of my visit in December. This is one of the great, unsung grand crus in the domaine’s portfolio, for though the vines are not owned by the domaine, the family has been buying grapes from this particular vigneron for more than forty years. The 2013 is another outstanding success, offering up a pure and complex nose of cherries, red plums, grilled meats, cocoa, dark soil tones, lovely fresh herb tones and a deft touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, beautifully transparent and tangy, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, great focus and grip and a very long, pure and vibrant finish. Given this was just bottled, it would not surprise me if my score ultimately proves conservative! (Drink between 2023 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGA concentrated, intense red, with cherry, strawberry, iron, tobacco and spice flavors locked up tight within the solid structure. All the components are in the right place, and the finish is long. Just needs time. Best from 2019 through 2032. 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

(13.3% alcohol; picked late): Pale straw-yellow. Aromas of clove, iodine and white flowers are lifted by a note of lemon oil. Hugely concentrated, dense and utterly backward; not showing nearly the detail of the Chevalier-Montrachet in the early going but this is sweeter. Montrachet in the outsized Chassagne body-builder style. Really amazingly rich and massively structured for the vintage, but needs to lose some of its baby fat before it can be properly appreciated.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2013 Montrachet Grand Cru, which comes from the Chassagne side, possesses a very precise bouquet that seems understated when compared to the more hedonistic Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles. This is much more demure, laid-back...nonchalant even. The palate is very precise - there is real detail here with delicate spicy notes furnishing the back end of this Montrachet that just expands toward the finish. I think this is keeping everything up its sleeve at the moment, but you cannot deny the balance and focus here.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM(Maison Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru White) This is restrained to the point of being almost mute and only aggressive swirling coaxes aromas of white flowers, freshly sliced citrus, pear, green apple and discreet spice elements to grudgingly emerge. There is seriously good size, weight and punch to the beautifully detailed and notably mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that, like the Corton-Charlemagne, possess a chiseled and explosively long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. I very much like the balance and upside development potential here and about the only nit worth mentioning is just a hint of finishing warmth. Still, this should abundantly reward 12 to 15 years of cellaring. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 93-95 BH

The 2014 Richebourg from Charles van Canneyt is stunning, with the elegance and transparency of the vintage finding a perfect dance partner in the depth and succulence of this cru. The superb bouquet wafts from the glass in a blend of red and black plums, cocoa powder, duck, a very complex base of soil tones, woodsmoke, violets and a lovely framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very refined out of the blocks, with a sappy core of fruit, great mineral drive, suave tannins and stunning backend energy on the precise and very, very long and complex finish. A great young example of Richebourg. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru has a fabulous bouquet: complex and profound, quite floral in style with wonderful intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, more masculine than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant and perhaps without quite the same riveting tension and detail. That said, it comes across as extraordinarily fresh and vibrant, with hints of undergrowth and smoke towards the structured and masculine finish. It will need a few years to really settle into its groove, but it will surely evolve into a tremendous Richebourg.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPerfumed with subtle aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry coupled with nuances of cured meat. A very racy wine with a velvety texture and some sweet spices on the finish.Decanter | 95 DECMedium red Distinctly darker on the nose than the RSV, offering scents of blackberry, boysenberry, violet, smoky minerals and spicy oak Sappy, saline, broad and classically dry; distinctly thicker and more backward than the RSV, with its soil character currently dominating its primary fruits Superb volume here but rather uncompromising today; this wine will need a long time to emerge from its shell Finishes with hints of chocolate and mint The RSV shows more oaky sweetness but this wine is more profound (Incidentally, when I tasted the 2014s from bottle at Hudelot-Noëllat in late 2015, this wine showed more high-toned lift and early personality than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but then Charles van Canneyt has been telling me for years that these two grand crus are constantly "changing their position in the cellar" during their élevageVinous Media | 93+ VMDiscreet but not invisible wood frames the less expressive but similarly spicy nose of fresh and ripe plum, cassis and violet scents that also display a hint of herbal tea. There is outstanding volume and intensity to the lightly mineral-inflected big-bodied flavors that possess very fine depth and length on the well-balanced finale. This is very firmly structured and is going to require at least a decade of cellaring before it will be approachable.Burghound | 93 BH

A rich style, until the firm structure of vibrant acidity and dusty tannins reveals itself, supporting plenty of cherry, black currant, tobacco and mineral flavors. The essence of black currant lingers on an ethereal frame. Best from 2023 through 2042. 56 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Mazy-Chambertin- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2014 Rousseau version of Mazy-Chambertin is an absolutely quintessential expression of this fine terroir, wafting from the glass in a black fruity blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, black minerality, a touch of currant leaf, roasted game and a discreet topnote of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure on the attack, with great transparency, a lovely core of fruit, ripe tannins and a very, very long, tangy and laser-like finish. (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 2014 Mazy Chambertin Grand Cru saw 10% new oak and a touch of reduction appeared to accentuate that. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. I like the weight here. There is more body and density than the Charmes-Chambertin, though with the same finesse on the lightly spiced finish. Once the aromatics sort themselves out, this will be a very fine Mazy-Chambertin, though the Charmes has more charm.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92-94 RP-NMModerate reduction renders the nose unreadable. On the plus side there is really lovely freshness and energy to the tautly muscular and slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors that culminate in an overtly austere and powerful yet not hard finale that goes on and on. This is really quite serious and note well that it's not an especially good candidate for early drink.Burghound | 91-94 BH(aged in 10% new oak, but most of the rest of the wine was racked into very young barrels in June): Healthy medium red. Sexy oak notes of coffee, mocha and spices complement dark cherry, berries, red licorice and wild herbs on the nose. Juicy and perfumed in the mouth, conveying an enticing hint of sweetness to the tangy black raspberry, spice, licorice and saline flavors. Finishes with firm, fine-grained tannins and noteworthy aromatic persistence, as well as a touch of roundness from the bit of new oak used for the first time for this cuvée. Previously, this wine has typically been more austere at this stage.Vinous Media | 90-93 VM

Intense red-fruits nose, quite oaky. Rich, velvety and lavish with fine-grained tannins. Very concentrated, spicy and peppery, but not extracted or heavy. Good length.Decanter Magazine | 92 DECThis is markedly reduced at present so I would strongly suggest decanting it if you are tempted to open a bottle young. Otherwise the supple, round and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors possess a sleek muscularity and solid intensity, all wrapped in a lingering finish that presently displays a hint of an edge that may or may not ever round off. As such my rating is a compromise as I suspect that this will develop even better complexity with age and thus even if the balance isn’t perfect, the ’14 Clos des Epeneaux should still make for a lovely wine.Burghound | 91 BHTasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux from Comte Armand has quite a nuanced nose with dusky red berry fruit, autumn leaves and a touch of stewed black tea. I like the cohesion and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, nicely balanced and supple in the mouth. There is something easy-drinking and approachable about this Pommard: well crafted and with satisfying tension. While not the greatest in recent vintages, this is still a pleasurable Pommard that overcame the hail that destroyed 90% of the vineyard that year. Tasted September 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPStill a bright red centre though turning a little at the edges. Fresh bright red fruit on the nose. The acidity keeps it bright at the back but this does not have the natural balance of 2017. The component parts should come together in another three to five years. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

An intensely spicy and floral red berry and cassis-suffused nose merges seamlessly into impressively rich and full-bodied middle weight flavors that possess just a hint of minerality on the hugely long and palate staining finish. This lightly austere and beautifully well-balanced effort is an obvious wine of class and grace.Burghound | 93 BH(100% vendange entier; 80% new oak; from a healthy crop of 42 hectoliters per hectare):Bright red-ruby. A touch of reduction mostly dissipated to reveal classic Suchots scents of black raspberry, Oriental spices, flowers and fresh herbs, plus an intriguing note of paprika. Wonderfully silky, plush, generous wine with sneaky inner-mouth energy. The wine’s sweet oak component will need a few years to harmonize with its fruits and flowers. Finishes with terrific length and substantial ripe tannins. This should ultimately make a wonderfully complete Burgundy.Vinous Media | 92-95 VM

The 2014 is one of the best young vintage of Feusselottes that I have tasted from the Mugneret sisters. The stunning nose delivers a perfumed constellation of red plums, cherries, roses, gamebird, cocoa powder, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones and a gentle framing of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and sappy at the core, with stunning soil signature, suave tannins and great length and grip on the laser-like finish. A beautiful bottle of Chambolle. (Drink between 2024 - 2065)John Gilman | 94 JGGood dark red A bit less pristine and high-pitched on the nose than the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Chaignots Round and silky on the palate, conveying an utterly seamless texture to the expressive flavors of strawberry, redcurrant and earth This doesn’t quite glisten in the mouth like the Chaignots does today but it’s still a wonderfully sappy, complex wine with slowly building red berry, mineral and earthy perfume A touch of pepper gives lift to the finishVinous Media | 92 VMThe 2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselots, which saw 50% new oak, has a crisp, tensile bouquet with more volume that the Nuits Saint Georges Chaignots. There is real transparency here: fabulous definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, tensile like the Chaignots but there is a touch of more fruit that seems a little darker and denser. The finish just skips along with joy. This is superb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThough there is a touch of wood here as well it is more subtle and easily allows the cool red currant, pomegranate, cherry and softly spice-inflected aromas to be appreciated. There is a notably finer mouth feel to the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that exhibit fine depth and length if perhaps not quite the same refreshing vibrancy on the dusty finish.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2014 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Narbantons is brisk, precise and beautifully sculpted, with plenty of red-toned fruit and floral accents, all of which add to the impression of energy. Still very much tightly wound, the Narbantons needs time in bottle to soften a bit. There is plenty to look forward to, that much is clear. Small red berry, anise and crushed flowers add nuance, the Narbantons is ultimately a wine of energy. And there is plenty of that here.Vinous Media | 93 VMAt 10 years of age, this is still cruising with only a touch of secondary character present on the still conspicuously earthy and cool nose of humus and underbrush characters that add breadth to the mostly dark berry fruit scents. There is unusually good density in the context of the vintage to the velvety middle weight flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate and buffers the firm tannins on the slightly rustic and austere yet wonderfully complex finale. This is still improving and while it could certainly be enjoyed now, I would advise holding it for another 5 to 8 years first.Burghound | 92 BHWhen broaching the 2014 Savigny lès Beaune les Narbantons, Lalou quipped that it was her "Petit Corton." It has a complex nose of red berry fruit, dried orange peel and even a distant scent of fresh fig. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, plenty of freshness and vitality here, a little hardness toward the finish and a light spicy aftertaste. Very fine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

Decadent and earthy, showing dried-strawberry and cherry character. Medium-to full-bodied, tight and showing pinpoint, fine tannins and a pretty center palate. Drink in 2019.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Fuées has the most complex bouquet, the most engaging and edgy among Jadot’s Chambolle premier crus. This just seems...animated. The palate is fresh and smooth on the entry with good depth, plush in the mouth with well judged acidity, a little more extroverted and you could say "modern" than the Les Baudes, but with very good persistence on the finish. This is very classy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPPalish red. Enticing strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors are complicated by stone and herbs. Creamy and suave on the palate, conveying excellent intensity and inner-mouth perfume as well as a savory complexity. This wine has the definition and lift that the Feusselottes lacks. The firm finish shows palate-staining length without any weightiness. A lovely laid-back Chambolle with excellent aging potential.Vinous Media | 91-94 VMAromas of sappy wild berry fruit, rock salt and whole-cluster fermentation are followed by a comparatively lean, angular Fuées that is still very young. There is solid fruit that continues in a zestful way throughout; a success in its style.Decanter Magazine | 91 DECWhile not imperceptible the wood treatment remains in the background on the spicy plum, violet, cherry and discreetly earthy nose. There is terrific delineation and minerality present on the elegant and gorgeously pure middle weight flavors that exhibit brilliant focus and controlled power on the superbly persistent finish. This is a picture perfect Fuées that is built to reward extended cellaring. Highly recommended.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets has a glorious nose that has mustered a little more va-va-voom since I tasted it from barrel last year. It lets rip with Morello cherries, fresh strawberry and a pastille-like purity. It is a very winsome bouquet, well defined and gains intensity on the glass. The palate is more conservative than the aromatics. It is well structured, the tannins slightly chalky in texture, the acidity nicely judged with a gentle grip on the finish. Whilst it does not have the persistence of the best premier crus from d’Angerville, there is an effortless nature to this Volnay.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPGood dark red Very ripe aromas of blackberry liqueur, licorice and molten dark chocolate Plush, ripe and sweet in the mouth, but a bit less refined and primary than the 2015 version, in spite of showing a cool minty nuance Finishes with serious but nicely ripe tanninsVinous Media | 91 VMThis is distinctly more restrained with its layered assortment of plum, dark berries, earth and pretty spice elements. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors that possess plenty of minerality on the dusty and focused and slightly fleshier finale. Lovely.Burghound | 90-92 BH

(bottled in April of 2017): Medium red. Deep, iron-like musky minerality complements crushed strawberry, raspberry and brown spices on the nose. Hugely rich, tactile wine with a 3-D texture to its explosive flavors of red fruits, spices and stony minerality. Surprising sweetness is perfectly countered by healthy acidity. Finishes extremely long, with broad, noble tannins saturating the front teeth. Nothing heavy about this Chambertin! Incidentally, Duband told me that his 2015 village wines have closed up more quickly than this wine, which he says has benefited from "the magic of vendange entier").Vinous Media | 94+ VMGenerous wood and menthol presently fight somewhat with the liqueur-like aromas of various dark berries and floral scents, in particular rose petal, lavender and violet. Once again the mouth feel of the broad-shouldered flavors is sleek and sophisticated yet this does not lack for power or mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a palate coating and mineral-driven finish that is absolutely built-to-age so plenty of patience will be required.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Sweet, intense cherry nose, with more overt charm and fruitiness than his Gevreys. Concentrated and firm, with good depth of fruit and chocolatey hints. The tannins are robust but not harsh, while the acidity just lacks a little drive. Forceful yet harmonious, with good length.Decanter | 94 DECWhile not invisible, the wood influence is moderate and should integrate with a few years of bottle age as it frames the floral-inflected red currant aromas that display undertones of earth and a slight sauvage character. There is a caressing yet powerful mouthfeel to the naturally sweet, full-bodied and nicely precise flavors that offer excellent intensity on the driving and youthfully austere though slightly warm finish. Patience is definitely recommended.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 40% whole bunches and 70% new oak. It is more open and expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin from barrel, with carefree red berry fruit, sage, orange rind and almost granitic aromas that are very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, the oak a little prominent in the latter stages, although there is clearly enough fruit to soak that up. Give this 5-7 years in bottle if you can.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(40% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Dark red with ruby highlights. Brooding, rather medicinal aromas of dark cherry and saline minerality; less floral than the Gevrey samples. Ripe and tactile for young Clos Vougeot but showing more dark chocolate and salty minerality in the early going than primary fruits. Finishes adamantly dry, with big, dusty tannins that will require substantial bottle aging to soften.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Sweet, intense cherry nose, with more overt charm and fruitiness than his Gevreys. Concentrated and firm, with good depth of fruit and chocolatey hints. The tannins are robust but not harsh, while the acidity just lacks a little drive. Forceful yet harmonious, with good length.Decanter | 94 DECWhile not invisible, the wood influence is moderate and should integrate with a few years of bottle age as it frames the floral-inflected red currant aromas that display undertones of earth and a slight sauvage character. There is a caressing yet powerful mouthfeel to the naturally sweet, full-bodied and nicely precise flavors that offer excellent intensity on the driving and youthfully austere though slightly warm finish. Patience is definitely recommended.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 40% whole bunches and 70% new oak. It is more open and expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin from barrel, with carefree red berry fruit, sage, orange rind and almost granitic aromas that are very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, the oak a little prominent in the latter stages, although there is clearly enough fruit to soak that up. Give this 5-7 years in bottle if you can.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(40% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Dark red with ruby highlights. Brooding, rather medicinal aromas of dark cherry and saline minerality; less floral than the Gevrey samples. Ripe and tactile for young Clos Vougeot but showing more dark chocolate and salty minerality in the early going than primary fruits. Finishes adamantly dry, with big, dusty tannins that will require substantial bottle aging to soften.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Lying just above Grands-Echézeaux, this was the last of the domaine’s climats to be picked, on the 12th and 14th of September, at a yield of 25.7hl/ha. A flamboyant nose of sumptuous black fruit and a touch of coffee bean leads into a broad palate of great volume and lift, with ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit, firm fleshy tannins, and a fine line of counterbalancing acidity. The oak has been seamlessly suffused. Serious length, with a dry mineral and cola finish. Bottled from 16th to 20th February 2017. 1,147 cases produced. Drinking Window 2020 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A wonderfully spicy, fresh and equally ripe nose blends together more deeply pitched notes of plum, violet, plum, sandalwood and hoisin wisps. There is impressive richness to the seductively textured yet quite powerful full-bodied flavors that possess excellent density thanks to the abundant dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the firm but not rigid tannins on the mouth coating and strikingly long finish. This is built-to-age and like the Corton, this has made huge quality strides over the past ten vintages. (Drink starting 2030).Burghound | 94 BHDark red with ruby tones; the darkest of these 2015s today. Captivating high-pitched, slightly high-toned scents of raspberry, minerals, spices and violet. Intensely flavored, youthfully tight and gripping, conveying terrific energy and subtle sweetness. The flavors of black plum and berries are darker than those of the Corton. As sharply delineated as this classy Echézeaux is, it also possesses plenty of baby fat. Finishes with substantial fine-grained tannins and outstanding length. A superb vintage for this cuvée.Vinous Media | 94 VMAfter the more restrained Corton, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 2015 Échézeaux Grand Cru bursts from the glass with a flamboyant bouquet of mulberry, black cherry, wood smoke and a lavish framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and intense, with a classically firm chassis of tannin and a lovely core of sappy, succulent fruit. This was the last of DRC's vineyards to be harvested, but despite its overtly ripe aromas and flavors, it retains superb acidity and focus and should amply reward cellaring. Cropped at 26 hectoliters per hectare and harvested September 12 and 14.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets was showing very well from bottle, wafting from the glass with notes of raspberry, cherry, spice and orange rind that offer little hint of the savory complexity to come with bottle age. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, structured around juicy acids and a fine-grained but firm chassis of tannins that asserts itself on the finish. Fremiets sits above the Clos des Angles, and its shallower soils tend to issue in wines with notable crunch and tension.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay "Frémiets" 1er Cru Red) A notably ripe nose stops just short of surmaturité while displaying notes of plum, black cherry, earth and a pretty lashing of spice elements. There is a bit more size, weight and mid-palate stuffing to the velvety and palate soaking flavors that are shaped by a markedly firm tannic spine on the gorgeously persistent finale where the only nit is a barely discernible hint of warmth. Lovely but once again, patience required. (Drink starting 2030).Burghound | 92-94 BHBright ruby. Blackberry, licorice and violet on the perfumed nose. Fine-grained and suave, but with terrific inner-mouth floral lift giving the middle palate a sense of energy. The wine's finishing sweetness is leavened by saline minerality and noteworthy grip. Really spreads out to saturate the mouth; an outstanding example of this premier cru.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMLes Fremiets sits above the Clos des Angles, and the soils here are shallower. The resulting fruit tones are higher-pitched, with red plum and raspberry complicated by scents of pipe tobacco and raw cocoa. The tannic structure is more savoury and fine-grained, enrobed in less fat and texture, but with lovely focus and energy. Drinking Window 2025 - 2050.Decanter | 91 DEC

Medium ruby. Slightly reduced, extremely primary aromas of blueberry and fruity bitter chocolate. Juicy on entry, then extremely tight and unevolved in the middle palate, with the density of a black hole. This lightly saline wine finishes with outstanding mineral punch and palate-staining length, not to mention great finesse of tannins. There's nothing dry about this beauty. Offers amazing potential. The crop level here was 26 hectoliters per hectare, according to Guillaume d'Angerville.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is just as stylish as the Caillerets and even a bit more complex with its pure and equally elegant blend of red currant, dark raspberry, violet and equally spicy nose. The rich and powerful yet refined flavors possess first-rate mid-palate concentration along with an almost piercing minerality that really comes up on the youthfully austere, backward and strikingly persistent finale. About the only reproach that I noticed was a subtle hint of warmth but otherwise, this is absolutely lovely.Burghound | 95 BHThe 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, which Guillaume described as his "odd child" since the vineyard is higher up than others, and tends to be more reserved and masculine, was in fact quite expressive when I tasted it—offering vibrant red berry fruit, minerals and boysenberry. There is wonderful definition here. The palate is tensile right from the beginning. There is not as much depth as the Caillerets - this is quite nimble and full of nervosité, before settling towards a pure blackberry finish that lingers in the mouth. This should age with panache.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NMThis expressive, solid red is fragrant, with black currant, blackberry and violet aromas. Firm and lean, this nonetheless shows balance and a fresh profile, ending with echoes of fruit and an emerging mineral element. Best from 2023 through 2040. 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe Taillepieds is beautiful this year, with a cool and reserved bouquet of fruits of the forest, black cherry, dark soil, juniper, bitter chocolate and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is vibrant, with beautiful cut and tension. It is deep, full-bodied and elegantly structured, with an expansive, sapid finish.Decanter | 92 DEC

A rich style, this white features lemon, peach and spice flavors, all backed by bright acidity. Balanced, leaving a chalky, even tannic impression on the long finish. Best from 2021 through 2029. 30 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSIf you like bold dry whites, then try this. Quite a tannic white Burgundy, but with richness that has a very positive impact on the wine. Plenty of citrus, plus some hazelnut and chalky character. Some real drive at the finish that promises a long life. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSIt’s always interesting to compare and contrast Albert Bichot’s Clos des Mouches white with the one from Joseph Drouhin, as this comes from a slightly higher parcel on the slope. The oak is a little more clamorous here and needs more time to integrate, but this is tauter and crunchier with a little less in terms of mid-palate weight. Drinking Window 2020 - 2024.Decanter | 92 DEC(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Beaune "Clos des Mouches" 1er Cru White) An overtly floral nose offers up notes of pearl, apple and citrus where the latter can also be found on the round, delicious and once again generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that deliver perfectly good if not truly distinguished depth though I do like the length. Note that my rating once again offers the benefit of the doubt that more complexity will develop if this is allowed a few years of cellar time. (Drink starting 2022)Burghound | 90 BH

Opening in the glass with hints of honeycomb, toasted nuts, fresh pears and wet stones, the 2017 Mâcon-Cruzille Clos de la Mollepierre is medium to full-bodied, enveloping but precise, with a tensile core, excellent concentration and a long, chalky finish. It’s another very serious wine from Domaine Guillot-Broux.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP