Wines with Age

wines

I’m not sure you need me to recap the weather conditions in 2005 as it’s such a famous, and relatively recent, year. Suffice to say, it was pretty close to a perfect year, with spots of heat but generally cool evenings that maintained a sense of freshness and poise. The colour difference is quite remarkable in comparison to the older vintages in the tasting, and even with nearly 15 years of age we are fully in primary colours with this 2005 - rich, purple-reds, not inky but full of life and intensity right through the body of the wine. On the palate you find touches of caramel and sweet, ripe fruit that’s handled expertly. It’s more gourmet than any other on display, but still with gorgeous freshness and traces of black pepper spice that give focus to the finish. It has an effortless balance that just makes you so happy to be drinking this wonderful vintage, from an estate that’s in no hurry to reveal its riches. Outside of the world of Bordeaux wine, Angela Merkel became head of the German government, following on from Gerhard Schroëder. Drinking Window 2018 - 2045Decanter | 94 DECComplex aromas of chocolate, currants, berries and sweet tobacco. Full body with fully integrated tannins that give a silky texture. Lovely tannins, fruit and acid balance. Just opening now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSWith its big fruit, and hearty tannins, this is a powerful, ripe wine, having great sweet blackberry flavors, a touch of smoke and a black fruit core. Round and opulent, this is a generous wine already.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2005 Talbot was picked from 22 September until 10 October. Having tasted this several times, this might be the best bottle. Deeper in colour than other vintages, it offers much more fruit: blackberry, bilberry and raspberry tinged with cedar and a faint estuarine tang. These aromatics just have more substance than other vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity. It is not the most complex 2005 Saint-Julien but there is grip and matière, notes of soy and black pepper lining the finish that will benefit from another two or three years in bottle. Very fine. Tasted at the centenary Château Talbot vertical at the property.Vinous Media | 92+ VMSweet tobacco, berry and currant aromas follow through to a full body, with soft, silky tannins and a fresh, racy aftertaste of currant and mineral. The texture of the tannins is very beautiful. Best after 2016.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s tasting and at the château, the 2006 Calon Segur was current winemaker Vincent Millet’s first vintage. In many ways, you can see it as one of the last of the "old style" Calon Segur wines with a higher percentage of Merlot than nowadays (the 2006 consists of 33% Merlot), while I aver that the tannins are not as fine as they are nowadays. The Merlot component is vividly expressed on the nose with ravishing ripe red cherries, kirsch and strawberry, just slightly smudged by the alcohol. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, quite sexy in style but it does not have the class of more recent vintages and it seems to have remained tough up on the finish. It will loosen up with time, so afford this another 6-8 years in bottle. Tasted January 2016.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93 RP-NMNot a wine that will please everyone. This has the austerity and backward thinking of 2006 mixed with the sleek fruit of Calon; rich, dark and not at all showy. Instead, it is subtle, delicate and thoroughly lovely. Drinking Window 2017 - 2038.Decanter | 93 DECFocused and fresh, with violet and blackberry aromas and vanilla undertones. Full-bodied, with very pretty berry fruit character, fine tannins and a long, caressing finish. Refined. Best after 2014. 14,445 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(Château Calon-Ségur) The 2006 Calon-Ségur (as noted above) was the first vintage produced under the guiding hand of Vincent Millet and this wine was a return to the classic cépages at the estate of predominantly cabernet sauvignon, after the detrimental increase in the percentage of merlot in the blend between 1990 and 2005. The wine is very, very closed today, but it is going to be a lovely wine with sufficient bottle age, as the wine is very well-balanced and simply needs time alone in the cellar to resolve its considerable chassis of tannin. The deep and still quite youthful nose reluctantly offers up scents of black cherries, curry, blossoming notes of dried eucalyptus, dark soil tones, cigar ash and a stylish base of new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full- bodied and completely in its dumb phase, with a very good core, ripe, chewy tannins, lovely focus and a very long, currently quite hermetically-sealed finish. This is a good eight to ten years away from blossoming, but it will be excellent if given sufficient patience. (Drink between 2022-2050).John Gilman | 92 JGAromas of perfumes and blueberries with minerals. Medium-to-full body, fine tannins and a tangy, fresh finish. Attractive tension and austerity to this. Savory and juicy. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 91 JSBright ruby-red. Perfumed, terroir-driven aromas and flavors of redcurrant, licorice, iron, cinders, woodsmoke, minerals and pepper, plus a whiff of meat. At once dense and suave, with herbal and peppery nuances contributing to the wine’s impression of insinuating vinosity and inner-mouth aromatic character. Almost rustic in its soil tones but not in its refined texture. Finishes with building tannins and a juicy freshness. A wine worth following.Vinous Media | 90+ VMThis wine’s rich red fruit rides above firm, stony St-Estèphe tannins, the contrast providing some delicate detail and more serious depth. As the tannins increase their grip with air, the fruit gets redder, like the skin of a ripening plum. Calon-Ségur, on a hill just outside the village of St-Estèphe, often grows vin de garde; this vintage should be a keeper.Wine & Spirits | 90 W&S

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts from Sylvain Cathiard really blossomed in the glass, unfurling to reveal notes of plums, dark chocolate, rich soil, burning embers and some savory and hard-to-define bass notes, its new oak nicely digested at age 12. On the palate, the wine starts out a little foursquare but opens up to become quite expansive, more taut and controlled than the 2005 En Orveaux tasted the following day, with fine-grained but not yet melted tannins, a deep core of fruit and a long finish. An excellent Malconsorts with a full decade ahead of it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPGood full red. Darker fruits on the nose, complicated by minerals, violet and sweet oak. Rich and silky but at the same time minerally and firm; boasts impressive volume and texture but comes across as almost weightless. Finishes tight and youthfully closed, with superb mineral energy and toothcoating tannins. Lovely already but this should really be held for five or six years.Vinous Media | 93+ VM(Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru Red) A gorgeously layered and deep nose of spicy, and once again notably cool black pinot fruit seems to offer up a different nuance with each examination and serves as a classy intro to the supple, rich, round and strikingly pure mouth coating flavors brimming with dry extract on the hugely long finish that exhibits serious power. This is a big yet refined wine that remains the current reference standard for Malconsorts though, happily, there will be more serious competition going forward with Domaines Dujac and de Montille coming to the party. Impressive but note that patience will be required. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 93 BH

From Grivot’s oldest vines, his 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Boudots completely outclasses its fellow Grivot Nuits-St.-Georges bottlings for depth of flavor, polish, and balance. Blackberry, game, peat, and a decadent lily-like floral perfume on the nose persist on a glyceral-rich and silkenly smooth, yet energetically interactive palate loaded with inner-mouth florality; dark mineral and carnal notes; and ripe berry fruit. This finishes with impressively tenacious yet somehow gentle grip. I certainly have the impression of inhabiting a gustatory space between Vosne and Nuits when I taste it. It should be worth following for the better part of a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPGood deep red. Reticent but complex nose hints at black cherry and smoke, with a violet florality emerging with aeration. Round, silky and suave in the mouth, with captivating lift to the dark fruit, floral and mineral flavors. This really stains the palate on the long, subtle finish. The wine’s fine-grained tannins coat the incisors, and a whiplash of minerality leaves the palate vibrating. Grivot notes that some of the vines here date back to 1929, and that the average age of vines is 75, or a bit older than those in the family’s Richebourg holding.Vinous Media | 92 VMHere the nose is very Vosne in character with seductively spicy red and black berry fruit aromas nuanced by hints of warm earth and an animale character that is picked up on the detailed yet muscular and wonderfully rich flavors supported by sophisticated and fine tannins on the youthfully austere finale. I really like the intensity here and this is a classic Boudots in that it’s serious but not taciturn.Burghound | 91 BHFresh and elegant, with bilberry, raspberry and currant notes permeating the dense texture. The tannins are well-integrated, and the aftertaste is bright and lively. Best from 2012 through 2020. 160 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The dense purple-colored 2006 boasts an extraordinary perfume of lead pencil shavings, creme de cassis, burning embers, and a sensation that can only be described as like walking through a damp forest on a hot, humid day. Full-bodied, extraordinarily textured, and multidimensional with an amazingly long finish of nearly 60 seconds, this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot from a 75-acre vineyard is a compelling wine that is one of the stars of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030.I can’t say enough about the extraordinary work proprietor Bernard Magrez, assisted by the internationally renowned Michel Rolland, is doing at Pape-Clement. From this outstanding terroir, he comes close to rivaling what both Haut-Brion and La Mission-Haut-Brion are accomplishing a few miles away. Following the prodigious 2005 Pape-Clement, it would be hard to believe the next vintage could nearly match its predecessor. However, that is what has happened at this estate with both white and red, by the way.Robert Parker | 95 RPFull ruby-red. Superripe, highly complex aromas of plum, cocoa powder, tobacco and warm stones. Big, plush and chewy, with compelling sweetness and generosity of texture to the flavors of plum, minerals, tobacco and woodsmoke. Has the sheer stuffing to support the serious, building but noble tannins. Finishes with superb palate-staining persistence. This may well shut down in bottle, and should age well for the next two decades, but it’s a knockout right now.Vinous Media | 93 VMDark in color. Blackberry, coffee and milk chocolate aromas follow through to a full body, with lots of chewy tannins, ripe fruit and polished wood. This needs time to come together, but it’s very powerful. Best after 2014.Wine Spectator | 91 WS90—92 Barrel sample. Very toasty, spicy aromas, with some dry firm tannins, this is a wine that is solidly structured, balanced, with the tannins well integrated with the ripe black plum fruit flavors.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEDeep purple colour is still violet and barely budging. A hefty attack, this is short on Pessac typicity but big on house style. Made with ageing in mind, the tannins are in full grip mode, while dark fruits lengthen and widen the experience. This will have definite fans – it pushes through the austerity of the vintage – but it’s not my wine. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with 100% new oak. Drinking Window 2016 - 2030.Decanter | 90 DEC

Tasted single blind against its peers. Denis Dubourdieu conjured a wonderful Barsac in 2007. Here there is an initial lightness on the nose that builds with each swirl of the glass. It exhibits fine minerality with apple, dried honey and a touch of wet stone. The palate is very harmonious with good acidity, very focused and succinct with great precision towards the poised finish. This has barely starting motoring, but it possesses an unbridled sense of nonchalance. Tasted January 2011.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2007 Doisy-Daëne is consistent with my note from last year with saffron and quince on the nose, the Aszu-element perhaps not quite as pronounced. The palate is both elegant and nuanced. Very fine. Tasted at the 2007 horizontal in Sauternes.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery fruity, showing tropical fruit such as mango on the nose, with lots of spice. Full-bodied and really sweet, with a honeylike, almost syrupy density. Spicy and intense on the finish. Best after 2015.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2007 Doisy-Daëne is a beautiful and very elegant young bottle of Sauternes. The bouquet is deep, very floral and complex, as it wafts from the glass in a blend of lemon, pear, acacia blossoms, chalky soil tones, bee pollen, a gentle base of vanillin oak and a topnote of coconut water. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, fresh and impeccably balanced, with lovely acidity, excellent focus and a very long, refined and dancing finish. This is a classic example of what looks likely to be a brilliant vintage for the late-harvest wines of Sauternes and Barsac, as the cooler summer and late-arriving botrytis has given these wines a zesty, ethereal quality that is simply stunning. (Drink between 2017 - 2040)John Gilman | 92+ JGThe color is light on this wine, which is really only just beginning to show richness. The botrytis dominates, with a fat, oily texture needing many years of aging. There is a lovely ripe orange marmalade flavor on the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThe 2007 Doisy Daene is medium yellow-gold colored. It has a quite nutty nose of hazelnuts and toasted almonds with hints of burnt sugar, preserved citrus peel, and truffles. The palate is rich and savory, with mature nutty flavors and a spicy finish.The Wine Independent | 92 TWI

The 2007 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi emerges from the glass with layers of sweet red fruit supported by the silkiest of tannins. Sweet floral and spiced notes follow, adding further complexity. The Cannubi captures the essence of the generous vintage in this site, in an expressive, open style that shows beautifully. The warm growing season gave the wine a little more mid-palate stuffing, not a bad thing for this very classic producer. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2007 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi emerges from the glass with layers of sweet red fruit supported by the silkiest of tannins. Sweet floral and spiced notes follow, adding further complexity. The Vigneto Cannubi captures the essence of the generous vintage in this site, in an expressive, open style that shows beautifully. The warm growing season gave the wine a little more mid-palate stuffing, not a bad thing for this very classic producer.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2007 Cannubi bottling from Fabio Alessandria is not quite as transparent as the Monvigliero in this vintage, but it too shares lovely elegance on both the nose and palate. The fine bouquet is also probably a touch deeper, wafting from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, a touch of anise, gentle tarry notes, a beautifully complex base of soil, woodsmoke and fresh oregano in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off lovely mid-palate depth, with ripe, fairly firm tannins, lovely focus and grip and a very long, well-balanced and youthful finish. (Drink between 2020 - 2050)John Gilman | 93 JG

It is my distinct impression that the Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin does especially well in high acid vintages such as 2008, and the wine is one of the best examples of this wine that I have tasted in twenty years of tasting the Rousseau wines out of barrel. The bouquet offers up a terrific mélange of fraises des bois, sappy cherries, blood orange, cocoa, a touch of meatiness and a great base of minerality. On the palate the wine is medium-full, long and intensely flavored, with a fine core of fruit, bright acids, moderate tannins and lovely focus and soil drive on the long and tangy finish. A superb vintage of Rousseau Charmes. (Drink between 2016 - 2040)John Gilman | 92+ JGThis is turning out a bit better than I imagined it might with its fresh and pretty red berry fruit nose that presently displays only a trace of secondary character along with hints of earth and the sauvage. I like the vibrancy of the nicely intense medium weight flavors that are focused if not especially concentrated, all wrapped in a bright, clean and lingering finale. For my taste this hasn’t quite yet arrived at its apogee but it’s not so far away that it couldn’t be enjoyed now.Burghound | 91 BH

Another resounding success for the vintage, the opaque purple-colored 2008 Clinet (14.4% alcohol) is composed of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Yields of 38 hectoliters per hectare, while higher than in 2010, were still modest. Another powerful, big, large-scaled effort, the 2008 exhibits an inky/purple color as well as sweet creme de cassis, blackberry, plum, Asian spice, licorice and incense notes. Layered and full-bodied with stunning purity and a 40+ second finish, this beauty needs 3-5 years of bottle age and should keep for 25-30 years.Robert Parker | 94+ RPThe 2008 Clinet has a deep garnet colour. This has plenty of fruit on the nose with ample blackberry, cranberry and fresh mint; very well defined and quite opulent in the context of the growing season. The palate is fresh on the entry with fine tannin, layers of blackberry and bilberry fruit laced with crushed stone; fresh and lively with a hint of peppermint towards the finish and graphite (courtesy of the Cabernet) on the aftertaste. This is drinking very well now although it has another 15 years of drinking enjoyment to give. (Tasted at the château and at BI Wine & Spirits’ annual vertical tasting.)Vinous Media | 93 VMClinet is always an enjoyable wine to taste, and at 10 years old it is starting to approach its perfect moment, particularly in this relatively early-drinking vintage. You are not going to be disappointed, it has polish, verve, attack and impact. The floral edged, spiced black fruits are not as complex or momentous as Clinet in 2009 or ’10, but the liquorice and dark chocolate gives a Pomerol polish, as do those deft tannins. Drinking Window 2018 - 2036Decanter | 93 DECRipe, rich and almost flashy, with gorgeous spice, mocha and warm raspberry ganache notes up front, followed by darker fig, currant, graphite and black tea on the long, racy finish. Accessible now, this will be a real winner when it knits together fully. Best from 2013 through 2019. 2,915 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSDark-colored wine, with smoky, bitter chocolate flavors: cocoa plus spice and jammy black plums. It’s powerful, densely textured, finishing with good acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WESmoky and fruity, with dark fruits and spices. Full body, chewy tannins, with an excellent core of fruit underneath it all. This needs time to mellow. Give it at least three or four years.James Suckling | 90 JS

The 2008 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts from Dujac is a magical beauty that’s drinking brilliantly today. Sporting a vivid ruby, translucent color, it offers an amazingly complex bouquet of sweet red fruits, green herbs, spring flowers, and layers of spice. The palate follows suit and is medium-bodied, incredibly seamless, and pure, with fine tannins. This incredibly classic Vosne-Romanée is drinking fabulously well today, with both fruit and complexity, yet will keep for another 10-15 years. It’s well worth seeking out.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2008 Vosne-Romanee Aux Malconsorts blossoms with endless layers of dark fruit. This is a totally sensual, enveloping wine graced with finesse, class and elegance. The Malconsorts is a pretty open 2008, but it will be even better in another few years’ time. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.This is a beautiful set of wines from Dujac. The harvest started on September 10 and ended on the 17th. Jeremy Seysses told me he wanted to pick on the early side in order to preserve freshness. In a similar vein, Seysses kept the fermentations short and gentle to avoid over-extracting. I also tasted a handful of 2008s, which are beautiful wines that are true to type and site. In 2008 the estate finished its conversion to fully organic farming originally started in 2001. Dujac fans have a lot to look forward to in these two vintages.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMedium red. Knockout nose combines wild red berries, minerals and red licorice, lifted by ineffable notes of blood orange and rose petal. Very suave on entry, then intense and pure in the middle, at once taut and seamless. Superb energy to the raspberry, mineral and spice flavors. Downright thick for a 2008, saturating the entire palate on the back end and leaving the taste buds quivering. Finishes with suave tannins and outstanding length. A beauty.Vinous Media | 94 VM(Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts”- Domaine Dujac) The 2008 Dujac Malconsorts is an absolutely complete and ethereal wine that is the epitome of Vosne-Romanée elegance and refinement. The nose is a stunning mélange of raspberries, cherries, raw cocoa, grouse, fabulously complex soil tones, spices, smoke and new oak. On the palate the wine is fullish, deep and very intensely flavored, with a svelte profile, a fine core of fruit, tangy acids and wonderful length and grip on the finely tannic and palate-staining finish. Wonderful Malconsorts. (Drink between 2017-2050).John Gilman | 94 JG(Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée "Malconsorts" 1er 1er Cru Red) This is less fine but more powerful and a bit more complex as well with a spicy mix of both blue and black pinot fruit cut with earth and herbal notes that precede the full, rich and very serious medium weight plus flavors that offer up a certain opulence on the mid-palate yet the gorgeously long finish is focused and classy. I very much like the dry extract level as it does a good job of buffering the firm tannins. (Drink starting 2023).Burghound | 93 BH

Medium-deep red. Gorgeous floral nose and palate offer raspberry, rose petal, spices and minerals. Sappy, dense and deep, with terrific concentration and thrust to its tight kernel of fruit. Finishes with compelling energy and length, and an impression of weightlessness. A beauty.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe Clos St. Jacques is always one of the crown jewels in the cellars at Maison Jadot, and the 2008 will be no exception to the rule. The bouquet is deep and properly reserved, as it offers up a lovely blend of cassis, dark berries, grilled meats, espresso, a touch of bonfire and a very complex base of soil. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very soil-driven this year, with a rock solid core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and excellent length and grip on the tangy and transparent finish. Really classy juice. (Drink between 2018 - 2050)John Gilman | 93 JGMusky and bittersweet perfume of iris and narcissus mingles with high-toned red fruit distillates in the nose of the Jadot 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques. Pungent fresh ginger and cinnamon, peat, and salt add invigoration to the brightly fresh and ethereally rarified fruit on silken-textured palate. The corresponding Estournelles St.-Jacques actually has the edge in interactive dynamism, but this lovely Clos St.-Jacques surpasses it in textural allure and sheer length, and ought to be worth following for 12-15 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-92 RPA discreetly wooded nose of ripe but cool red and blue berry fruit aromas trimmed in notes of violets and minerality of which the latter amply suffuses the supple, vibrant and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors that offer excellent length if only moderate depth compared to the usual extremely high standards of this wine. This will require 10 to 12 years to arrive at its full potential.Burghound | 90 BH

The 2008 Lynch Bages is brilliant stuff as well as a textbook Pauillac. Revealing a still youthful ruby/purple color as well as impressive notes of graphite, cedar pencil, cassis, tobacco, and obvious minerality, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, polished tannins, and a concentrated, layered texture. Jean-Charles Cazes described the vintage as late and great for Cabernet Sauvignon, and this beauty has classic Cabernet flair in spades. Powerful yet also fresh and elegant, it benefits from a decant and will continue drinking beautifully for another 20-30 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDIn the powerful style of Lynch-Bages, although perhaps less exuberant than usual. Instead the concentration comes from juicy fruit, which gives it the a softer quality. Even so, it still has solid tannins, dense texture and always the promise of good aging.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA sensational effort for the vintage, this textured, opulent, superb Lynch Bages is already strutting its stuff and should easily last for 20 years. Medium to full-bodied with an opaque dense purple color, notes of flowers and cassis, a layered texture that builds incrementally in the mouth and tremendous purity and depth, it can be drunk now or cellared for two decades or more. Bravo!Robert Parker | 93 RPMore concentrated and tannic than many of the other Pauillacs in this vintage, with powerful cassis fruits, notes of liquorice and still-chewy tannins, with cigar box and menthol starting to tunnel though. It could do with another few years, and it’s built to go the decades. Accomplished and enjoyable. Drinking Window 2020 - 2035Decanter | 93 DECLots of currant and lemon rind undertones. Full body, firm and silky tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Tight and linear but pretty and bright. Just opening now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2008 Lynch Bages has a classic pencil lead and cedar scented bouquet with impressive delineation. It just takes a time to get going in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, classic in style with graphite-tinged black fruit. This is fresh and focused with impressive depth on the grippy finish. The Cazes family crafted a solid, what you might call dependable Lynch Bages that might eschew the glitz, but will cruise along nicely for a couple of decades. (Tasted at BI Wine & Spirit’s annual 10-Year On tasting).Vinous Media | 92 VMNo written review provided. | 92 W&SVery solid, with a super beam of dark currant, tobacco and iron pushed by charcoal, melted fig and cocoa notes. There’s a nicely rounded feel, but also plenty of grip in reserve. Best from 2013 through 2018. 30,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Pale gold in color, the 2009 Doisy Daëne features expressive notes of honeyed lemons, dried mango slices, apricot tart and Seville orange marmalade with a touch of shaved almonds. The palate delivers mouth-filling stone fruit and citrus preserves layers with great purity and a lively backbone, finishing wonderfully zesty and youthful.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPQuite high-pitched now, with lots of green plum and green almond notes laced with bright honeysuckle and heather. The background shows more lemon shortbread, grapefruit pâte de fruit and persimmon, while the finish offsets the sweetness with a lively quinine note. Distinctive, but will need time to come together. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2015 through 2030. 4,509 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA fresh and aromatic bouquet sets off this light, dancing style of wine. It has acidity and a lemon curd flavor, proving to be sweet and citrusy at the same time. It’s developing well.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEThe 2009 Doisy-Daëne is missing a little cohesion at the moment. Scents of dried honey and caramelised pears with nice definition but I would like more energy. The palate is better than the nose: fresh on the entry with honeyed, mango, quince and spice, well balanced with good botrytis on the finish. If the aromatics improve it will merit a higher score. This may be going through a dumb phase. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM(Château Doisy-Daëne (Barsac)) Doisy-Daëne has been on a real tear for this entire decade and the 2009 will be yet again another outstanding bottle of wine and one of the great steals from the vintage. The bouquet is deep, pure and classy, as it offers up a lovely mélange of pears, pineapple, orange blossoms, gentle notes of honey comb, spring flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and racy, with great focus, fine mid-palate depth and excellent length and grip on the bouncy and light on its feet finish. A terrific vintage of Doisy-Daëne. (Drink between 2016-2040).John Gilman | 90-92+ JG

A wine that continues the impressive rise of du Tertre. It is becoming one of the sure values of Margaux, and this 2009 is both ripe and finely balanced. The acidity boosts the rich fruits, sweet tannins and the warm finish.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEA seductive, opulent, textured Margaux with notes of licorice, black fruits, asphalt, pen ink and truffle, this is one of the finest du Tertres ever made. It has a hedonistic quality to it, but at the same time, there is great class, precision and freshness to this full-bodied, concentrated, but very supple-textured wine. Drink it over the next 20+ years.Robert Parker | 92 RPThe 2009 du Tertre has a very ripe, rather smudged and over the top bouquet. This feels a little one-dimensional at the moment. The palate is much better with pure black cedar-infused fruit, a touch of pencil lead and gentle grip towards the precise finish. I suspect the aromatics are going through a sullen phase, it will come through on the other side, so give this another couple of years in bottle. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ Ten Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMSmoky black fruits on the nose are accompanied by some clear caramel edging. You can feel the heat and generosity of the vintage on the palate, and it’s a little more evolved than you might expect for a classified Margaux, but it would be churlish to complain about the silk-textured pleasure on display in this glass. Drinking Window 2019 - 2036Decanter | 92 DECThe cool fresh forest berries character gives this medium-bodied Margaux a lot of charm. Long very clean and rather elegant finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 92 JSQuite perfumy at first, with lilac, damson plum and singed bay leaf notes up front, followed by darker yet still caressing steeped black cherry, worn leather and espresso notes on the back end. Best from 2013 through 2023. 12,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

A blend of just over 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot (last year I mistakenly wrote that the balance was Cabernet Franc), the opaque ruby/purple-colored 2009 reveals notes of scorched earth/burning embers/charcoal, black currants, ripe cherries and lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied and pure with sweet tannin, this is an under-the-radar, high quality claret to drink over the next 20-25 years.As powerful and rich as the 2000 and 2010, Haut-Bergey’s 2009 is another of the over-achieving, value-priced Bordeaux that are increasingly difficult to find. The estate, which is owned by Helene Garcin (who also owns Clos l’Eglise and Barde-Haut, and makes the cult wine, Branon, from a vineyard adjacent to Haut-Bergey), is situated near Malartic Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier.Robert Parker | 94 RPA wine with lovely dark berries and chocolates follows through to a full body with chewy tannins and a fit finish. Very in form. Best ever? Try in 2016.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2009 Haut-Bergey has a lovely bouquet with raspberry, cranberry, rose petal and light forest floor aromas, opening beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well judged acidity, and smooth in texture although, it lacks some density and grip on the finish. Enjoy now and over the next 6 to 8 years. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM89-91 Barrel sample. A definite burnt character on the nose, but the fruit has proper richness, the wood perhaps showing too much high toast. The freshness should be kept and not lost in the wood. Wine Enthusiast | 90 WEBright cherry and berry fruit flavors nestle in a broad, soft texture in this juicy red, which has bright acidity, modest tannins and an herbal, floral finish that's fresh and focused. Not a blockbuster, but balanced and harmonious. Drink now through 2017. 7,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

What a nose. You see the chocolate, orange peel, sweet tobacco. Goes to milk chocolate and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and round tannin structure. Creamy texture. Like the great 1995. Sweet and beautiful. Try in 2016.James Suckling | 95 JSThe second wine, the 2009 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, is almost as large a cuvee as the grand vin. This 7,000-case cuvee is a blend of 46% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest small quantities of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Once again the burning ember/scorched earth characteristic that often comes from Haut-Brion is found in the second wine, along with more kirsch and cassis, fewer nuances and less complexity than its bigger sibling. The wine is full-bodied with the minerality offered by this terroir as well as plenty of sweet tannins. This is the finest second wine Haut-Brion has produced since the astonishing 1989 Bahans-Haut-Brion. Enjoy it over the next two decades.Robert Parker | 92 RPThe 2009 Clarence de Haut-Brion has a refined and elegant bouquet with pure red fruit, undergrowth, clove and leather, perhaps just a little brettanomyces becoming more obvious with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, rounded in texture with truffle and leather infused red fruit. There is fine grip on the finish and it should continue to age extremely well in bottle. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis delivers the textbook profile of the appellation and vintage, with dense but mouthwatering tar, cassis, blackberry, bay leaf and dark cocoa notes all melded together and driving through the grippy finish. Approachable, but better with some time. Best from 2013 through 2023. 6,665 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe second wine of Haut-Brion, the 2009 Le Clarence Haut Brion checks in as 46% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Offering a classic bouquet of blackcurrants, scorched earth, roasted herbs and earthy, gravely nuances, this beauty is broad, expansive and full-bodied on the palate, with ample depth, density, and structure. There’s no harm drinking bottles today, yet it has two decades of longevity ahead of it as well.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDA rich wine, with soft, juicy tannins, some spice, the tannins dry at the center. Good structure, touch of wood.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

The 2009 Lagrange was picked from 28 September to 6 October. This has a sensual and very floral bouquet with lavender and violet aromas infusing the plush and generous red berry fruit. It retains fine delineation despite its concentration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, velvety smooth with layers of red berry fruit laced with clove and thyme, gently fanning out towards the caressing finish. Superb. Tasted at the Lagrange vertical at the estate.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is a good Lagrange, showing well now with no need to wait too long. It perhaps doesn’t have the concentration and precision of today’s Lagrange, but it’s a good 2009 with lots to enjoy. It has a firm cassis and blackberry purée character, with spiced herbs through the mid-palate, and firm but pliable tannins, all leading to a finish with good lift. Effortless and with St Julien elegance. Drinking Window 2019 - 2036.Decanter | 94 DECRipe wine, with soft tannins allied to great density. Weight and lovely, juicy, final fruit flavors meld together easily. This is solid, dense, impressive and for long-term aging.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEMedium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Lagrange rolls out of the glass with beautiful redcurrant jelly, warm blackcurrants and blueberry preserves notions plus hints of fallen leaves, camphor and pencil lead. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with red and black fruit preserves and lively herbal sparks, with a firm grainy backbone and great freshness on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPLovely ripe cassis character, fullish body and elegant tannins make this an easy 2009 to enjoy in spite of the wine’s ample structure. Drink now. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019).James Suckling | 93 JSOne of the more backward, tight wines in this retrospective, the 2009 Château Lagrange needs lots of air to show at its best, yet still holds things close to its vest. A youthful ruby color is followed by beautiful and classic Bordeaux notes of crème de cassis, cedar pencil, unsmoked tobacco, and a touch of earth. It’s not massive by any means, yet it’s beautifully balanced, with ripe, polished tannins and a great finish. With a Château Lafite-like elegance and seamlessness, it will be loved by the Claret lovers out there and is certainly a beautiful wine. It should evolve for another 20-30 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD(Château Lagrange) Lagrange harvested from September 28th until October 20th and the team here has produced one of the reference point wines on the Left Bank. The bouquet is deep and simply superb, as it jumps from the glass in a classic mélange of black cherries, dark berries, coffee, woodsmoke, espresso, tobacco leaf, a lovely base of soil and a discreet touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and rock solid at the core, with excellent focus and balance, fine-grained tannins and beautifully length and grip on the palate-staining and impressively tangy finish. There are not a lot of wines on the Left Bank with this type of zesty acidity and pinpoint focus. A terrific 2009. (Drink between 2020-2070).John Gilman | 92-93+ JGThis has a solid core of juicy plum, red currant and blackberry fruit that sits in reserve, while mouthwatering briar and toasty spice notes move along the edges. Grippy and focused through the finish, with well-embedded acidity. Best from 2013 through 2024.Wine Spectator | 91 WSSaturated with the warm ripeness of the 2009 vintage, this is well upholstered rather than hyperripe. Its plump blueberry and currant flavors feel concentrated, completely integrating the oak so that the tannins are cushioned rather than extracted. Its vintage character shows in caramelized notes at the end of the wine, in spice that builds out of the warmth. Enjoyable now with roast duck, this will gain complexity as it ages.Wine & Spirits | 91 W&S

The 2009 Langoa-Barton has a gorgeous bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and light tobacco aromas that blossom from the glass. This feels so composed and pure. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine-grain tannin, beautifully judged acidity and a svelte, languorous finish that fans out with style. What a gorgeous and utterly seductive Saint-Julien. It turns out to be Langoa Barton, a wine that I have rated very highly in the past. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VMVery dense and still rather reserved, with dark blueberry, blackberry and fig notes rolled together, framed by freshly brewed espresso and Black Forest cake notes. Long and tarry through the finish, with a melted licorice snap note hanging on at the very end. Best from 2014 through 2030. 10,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA deceptively approachable wine. Its gorgeous fruits are right up front, their ripeness powered by a generous, complex texture. There is concentration, but it is surrounded by so much richness. It can almost be drunk now, but should age well.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEA rich and fleshy wine, yet it remains decisively dry. Attractive blueberry aroma and impressive supple tannins make this very harmonious. If it was slightly brighter in the nose this would rate even higher.James Suckling | 93 JSBackward, tannic and beefy, this youthful but formidable 2009 Langoa Barton exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as lots of damp earth, underbrush and black currant aromas and flavors, medium to full body, lively acids and, not surprisingly, massive tannins (a characteristic of all the Barton wines). The overall impression is somewhat incongruous, having a certain precociousness in the aromatics, but then clamping down on the taster in the mouth. I recommend waiting 5-7 years before opening a bottle. It should drink well over the following 20-25 years.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

The 2009 Bonnes Mares opens with gorgeous aromatics that lead to a muscular core of fruit. The wine finds its inner elegance on the mid-palate and finish, where hints of candied fruit and violets come together, adding lift and elegance. The combination of aromatic expressiveness and nuanced fruit elevate this to a very high level. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RPThe 2009 Bonnes Mares opens with gorgeous aromatics that lead to a muscular core of fruit. The wine finds its inner elegance on the mid-palate and finish, where hints of candied fruit and violets come together, adding lift and elegance. The combination of aromatic expressiveness and nuanced fruit elevate this to a very high level.Vinous Media | 93-96 VMModerate reduction kills an evaluation of the nose. However there is marvelous density to the serious and muscular broad-shouldered flavors that brim with tannin buffering dry extract and flat out incredible length, indeed it’s possible that this, along with the Richebourg, possesses the longest finish of any wine in the range. A stunner of a Bonnes Mares built for the long haul.Burghound | 93-96 BH

Green olives, spices and currants on the nose. Full body, with velvety tannins and a juicy finish. Lovely layers of ripe tannins and ripe fruit. Best after 2018.James Suckling | 93 JSI clearly underrated this wine from barrel. The finest wine made at this estate since 1982, this opaque black wine is a sleeper of the vintage, with oodles of blackberry fruit interwoven with hints of charcoal, forest floor, licorice and damp earth. Deep, rich, chewy, full-bodied and opulent, this is a fabulous Meyney that, because of its low acidity and very ripe tannin, can be drunk in 3-4 years or cellared for two decades. Bravo!Robert Parker | 92 RPThe 2009 Meyney marks the point where I believe the wines become more interesting. The nose features ample red berry fruit, red plum, raspberry preserve and sloes mixed with Christmas cake and earthy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, and quite Haut-Marbuzet in style, leading to a lush but very nicely structured, lightly spiced finish that reveals cracked black pepper on the aftertaste. This is definitely worth seeking out. Tasted at a vertical at Château Meyney.Vinous Media | 92 VM

This is notably fresher than the Chapelle with a strikingly elegant and highly complex nose that displays perfumed and notably ripe red currant and cassis aromas that are liberally laced with warm earth and spice hints. There is good intensity and detail to the opulently textured medium weight plus flavors that are blessed with a seemingly endless reserve of sap on the gorgeously long finish. This is a really impressive effort and if the palate complexity can eventually match that of the nose, this should be able to achieve, or perhaps even exceed, the upper end of my predicted range.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2009 Griottes is a dead ringer for the 1985 at the same stage of development, as the wine soars from the glass in a very ripe and very pure mélange of red and black cherries, cocoa, a great base of soil, grilled meats and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very opulent on the attack, with a great core of fruit, lovely, tangy acids and superb backend grip and focus on the complex and ripely tannic finish. This is voluptuous and almost syrupy in its sappiness, much like the 1985 was in its infancy. Superb wine. (Drink between 2018 - 2050)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2009 Griotte-Chambertin is another big, super-ripe wine loaded with dark fruit. This is almost port-like in its intensity, with endless layers of blueberries, blackberries, spices and white flowers that build towards the substantial, textured finish. The Griotte is a totally seductive wine endowed with fabulous harmony and tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-94 RPThe 2009 Griotte-Chambertin is another big, super-ripe wine loaded with dark fruit. This is almost port-like in its intensity, with endless layers of blueberries, blackberries, spices and white flowers that build towards the substantial, textured finish. The Griotte is a totally seductive wine endowed with fabulous harmony and tons of personality.Vinous Media | 91-94 VM

The 2009 Raymond-Lafon has a slightly smudged bouquet although it gains clarity with time, offering pineapple and peach skin, lanolin and honeysuckle aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fresh entry, slightly edge thanks to the acidity with good concentration and persistence towards the tropical-tinged finish. Good potential. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VMPale gold colored, the 2009 Raymond-Lafon gives compelling marmalade, honey nut, pineapple upside down cake and burnt sugar notes with wafts of petrol and paraffin wax. Opulent with savory undertones, the palate delivers loads of citrus fruit sparks among the richness, with a racy backbone and long, fruity finish. While showing some evolution, this still has plenty of cellaring potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPRich and intense, with dried pineapple, candied lemon peel and heather honey notes, followed by spice, crème brûlée and lemon meringue. The long, pure finish has great power and precision. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2013 through 2030. 3,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS