Wines with Age

wines

So perfumed and beautiful. Smells like an outstanding Burgundy. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, long fruity and focused finish. Hint of raisin. Beautiful balance and class. Better in a couple of years. Even better than I remember.--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSFrom the Barolo appellation, the 1998 Conteisa displays a distinctive bouquet of black cherry jam mixed with vitamins, smoke, iron, minerals, and spicy oak. In the mouth, earth, truffle, lead pencil, and espresso-infused cherry flavors make an appearance. Deep, rich, and full-bodied, with moderate tannin and power, this impressive offering requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should age well for two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP(15-year-old vines; Gaja bought this property in 1995) Deep red-ruby. Highly complex aromas of game, nuts, animal fur, minerals and marzipan; seems more evolved today than the San Lorenzo. Round and rich in the mouth but not as complex as the nose promises; the ’99 shows greater clarity. Tannins are sweet and smooth but quite strong. Not yet showing its personality.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

The 2007 Langhe Conteisa is impeccably ripe and silky on the palate, with expressive La Morra red fruits, flowers, mint and spices that emerge from the glass. This is another soft, seamless wine from Gaja, with gorgeous purity in the fruit that carries through all the way to the deeply satisfying, creamy finish. The tannins remain impeccably refined and beautifully balanced with the fruit. The wine is likely to firm up a touch in bottle, but it should be one of the most accessible of Gaja’s 2007s. The 2007 is easily among the finest Conteisas ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPBlueberry and lemon aromas follow through to a full body, with firm and racy tannins and a delicate finish. This is refined and polished. Drink after 2013.James Suckling | 95 JSFull medium red. Rather unforthcoming but mellow aromas of plum, mocha and licorice. Silky on entry, then more tightly wound toward the back in spite of its plush, layered texture. Lovely raspberry, spice and underbrush flavors blast through the building, granular tannins on the long aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn’t anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from the Marenca and Rivette vineyards in Serralunga. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn’t anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from vineyards in Serralunga.Vinous Media | 96 VMGaja’s Sperss was once a Barolo but now occupies a category all its own as a Nebbiolo from the Langhe region—the producer famously declassified his top wines. This shows extreme elegance and sophistication with fine nuances of forest fruit, spice, dried tobacco, licorice and Spanish cedar. The finish is long, polished and bright. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThere’s a lot of toasty oak framing the black cherry, tobacco and spice flavors in this suave, powerful red. Balanced overall, with plenty of fruit, but needs time to integrate more fully. Displays a fine mix of fruit and spice on the aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2035. 600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis has a crazy intensity with a big hit of new wood but loads of ripe yet subtle fruit, from plums to dark berries. Full and chewy with round tannins and a long, persistent finish. Turns to licorice and spice in the aftertaste. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 94 JSDiscreet raspberry aromas. Fresh and sleek, with restrained tannins and no rough edges. Good acidity gives the palate length and finesse. Drinking Window 2014 - 2025Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2013 Barbaresco Serracapelli Dedicato a Paolo emerges from the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1956. Deep and sensual, with striking layers of nuance, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Readers will find a lifted, savory, intensely mineral Barbaresco built on persistence and energy. Tobacco, worn-in leather, spice, menthol and crushed rose petal add myriad shades of complexity. The 2013 can be enjoyed now, but it also has enough pedigree to drink well for another decade.Vinous Media | 95 VM

For all who criticized the 2014 vintage across the board: this. Opening with enticing scents of new leather, rose, camphor and perfumed berry, it’s a text-book Serralunga Barolo. The chiseled palate is radiant, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, spiced cranberry and licorice while firm, fine-grained tannins provide taut support. Bright acidity keeps it racy, focused and balanced. It beautifully proves that even in challenging vintages, great producers can make great wines. Drink 2024–2034.Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Figli Luigi Oddero 2014 Barolo Vignarionda awards an immediate sense of place, with the ferrous earth, dried orange peel and balsam herb aromas that are so perfectly characteristic of Serralunga d’Alba. From the cool 2014 vintage, these pretty aromas have been given plenty of time to grow in intensity and clarity, thanks to extended cellar aging. Vignarionda is high, at 400 meters above sea level, and diurnal temperature shifts have evidently solidified and enhanced those pretty aromas. In line with the vintage, the mouthfeel is slightly thinner and smoother, showing a light and elegant textural fabric with silky tannins. This is the estate’s smallest production, with 3,800 bottles to be released in October 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAnother highlight in this range, the 2014 Barolo Vignarionda is terrific. Sweet, perfumed and silky on the palate, it captures the captivating bouquet and enthralling beauty that are the signature of this site. Bright red cherry, raspberry, rose petal and mint all meld together in a Barolo of exquisite beauty. This is one of the best Vigna Rionda Barolos. The style here is still a work in progress, but this is a very, very pretty Barolo.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Brovia is one of the brightest stars of Castiglione Falletto, the comune at the heart of the appellation that benefits from a complicated mix of soil types from different geological periods that intersect in and around this village. The 2015 Barolo is wine of character and brawn with dark fruit aromas followed by savory tobacco, spice and a very distinctive note of rusty nail or ferrous earth. The bouquet is large in scale, reflecting the intensity and expansive personality of this warm vintage. The tannins are elegantly integrated, and the wine leaves a lasting and beautiful impact on the palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP

Aromas of rose, woodland berry, menthol and a whiff of pipe tobacco fill the glass. Full-bodied and loaded with finesse, the structured, elegant palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and cinnamon while taut, fine-grained tannins provide support. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and focused. Drink 2023–2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOAromas of rose, woodland berry and menthol with a whiff of pipe tobacco fill the glass. Full bodied and loaded with finesse, the structured, elegant palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and cinnamon, while taut, fine-grained tannins provide support. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and focused. Drink 2023–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2015 Barolo Villero offers richness and darkness with fruit from Castiglione Falletto, and it’s one of the more intense wines I tasted within this selection. The Villero is a balanced and polished Barolo that opens to nicely integrated fruit and spice tones, expertly interwoven and united. The wine has a beautiful entry to the palate. Indeed, this pretty wine presented a united front, with seamless and graceful integration.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAromas of praline, honey, orange peel and cherries follow through to a full body, chewy tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Beautiful intensity and power. Drink from 2022.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2015 Barolo Villero is a very pretty, mid-weight wine. Silky tannins and beautifully expressive aromatics give the Villero considerable finesse. On the palate, though, the 2015 is far less expressive. That is not entirely surprising, as the Villero often needs a few years to truly blossom. Sweet floral and spice notes start to open with time in the glass, but the Villero is not an especially forthcoming 2015 Barolo.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is ripe with dried plum, saddle leather, crushed rock, and tar. Revealing a mineral-rich earth and full structure, with black tea, dried porcini, and cherry pit, it is warming with a wintery feel. This is a great one to lay down and check in on in 4-6 years. Drink 2025-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDAromas of underbrush, camphor, new leather and woodland berry mingle with a whiff of pressed rose petal on this compelling red. Still youthfully austere but already incredibly delicious, it delivers raspberry compote, truffle, tobacco and licorice framed in tightly knit, noble tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Another fantastic showing from this wonderful estate. Drink 2025–2040.Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOAromas of underbrush, camphor, new leather and woodland berries mingle with a whiff of pressed rose petal on this compelling red. Still youthfully austere but already incredibly delicious, it delivers raspberry compote, truffle, tobacco and licorice framed in tightly knit, noble tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Another fantastic showing from this wonderful estate. Drink 2025–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEOffers nice tension between the supple texture and firm structure, showing cherry, currant and strawberry fruit flavors, with floral, mineral and tree bark accents. Balanced, with plenty of grip for future evolution. Best from 2024 through 2043. 1,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe flagship wine from the talented Cavallotto family, comprising 8,938 bottles and 666 magnums, the 2015 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is still quite young but equally promising at its release. This is one of my favorite vineyard sites, and Castiglione Falletto, located at the center of the appellation, boasts prime positioning that unites the best qualities of its surroundings. Keeping in line with the vintage characteristics, the wine is generous in terms of aromas and fleshed out in terms of mouthfeel. There is plenty of red and purple fruit, and the wine gains complexity, thanks to pretty appearances of blue flower, spice, toast and powdery earth. The 2015 vintage is slightly softer and more accessible overall compared to the tightly knit 2013 and 2010 editions, two classic vintages for this Riserva.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPCavallotto’s 2015 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe rounds out this trio of new releases. A big, strapping wine, the 2015 possesses remarkable intensity to match its classic, mid-weight frame. Like all of these Barolos, it seems to have less overt fruit and more classicism. Camphor, licorice, menthol, pine, underbrush and scorched earth all run through the 2015, a big, brawny Riserva that will delight for many years to come. The 2015 San Giuseppe is what Barolo is all about. It’s a must for Cavallotto fans.Vinous Media | 96 VMAlfio Cavallotto, a well known organic producer in Castiglione Falletto, owns 15.5 hectares of Bricco Boschis from its total of 17ha - it was a monopole of the estate until 2014. Vigna San Giuseppe is located at the top of the cru, where the soils are even sandier than in other parts of the MGA, due to the simultaneous presence of Diano sandstones and sandy Sant’Agata Fossili marls. His 2015 is as much austere as detailed: rose, plum and prune aromas are joined by smoky woodland and a depth of forest floor. Prunes appear on the palate too, with an earthy minerality and muscular yet ripe, sweet tannins due to old vines (around 50 years old). This also displays refreshing acidity and balanced alcohol. Extremely consistent with the vintage, it is now available and ready for the long haul.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe Barolo Riserva bottlings from the Cavallotto family are given approximately thirty days of maceration and aged for fully four years in Slavonian oak Botti prior to bottling, and then an additional year of bottle aging in the cellar before they are deemed ready for release! The 2015 Bricco Boschis Riserva comes in at 14.5 percent octane and delivers a superb nose of red and black cherries, spit-roasted venison, anise, woodsmoke, a touch of road tar, camphor, complex soil tones and a pungent topnote of roses. On the palate the wine is young, full-bodied, focused and classic in profile, with a rock solid core of fruit, outstanding soil signature, ripe, chewy tannins, tangy acids and great balance and grip on the long, complex and very promising finish. This is a great wine in the making, but it is going to need plenty of time in the cellar! (Drink between 2035-2085)John Gilman | 94+ JG

Lifted and savory aromatics initially jump out of the 2015 Barolo Riserva Vignolo, with graphite, incense, brushed leather, and dried sour cherry. Full and balanced, with dried currant, tobacco leaf, and clove, it has a powerful, noble structure. This is a wine with layered complexity that is hard to pin down. Drink 2024-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe Cavallotto family’s parcel in the Cru of Vignolo has some of their oldest vines, as this parcel was planted in 1948 and 1966. The 2015 Riserva from Vignolo was given twenty-six days of maceration and the same four years in Botti and one year in bottle prior to release. It too comes in at 14.5 percent alcohol and offers up an excellent aromatic constellation of sappy black cherries, cigar smoke, gamebird, camphor, gently chalky soil tones, fresh oregano and an exotic floral tone of lavender in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and almost bottomless at the core, with lovely sappiness, excellent mineral drive, ripe, buried and plenty chewy tannins, good acids and grip and a long, complex and seamlessly balanced finish that augurs nothing but pure magic once this wine is fully ready to drink! The old vines here give this wine a sense of sappiness that is truly lovely, coupled with a structural refinement that the Bricco Boschis cannot quite keep pace with in the 2015 vintage. Great, great juice. (Drink between 2035-2085)John Gilman | 97 JGAromas of leather, scorched earth, grilled herb and camphor come to the forefront along with whiffs of hazelnut. Savory and full-bodied, the compelling palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, black licorice and baking spice set against youthfully firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2035.Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOAromas of leather, scorched earth, grilled herb and camphor come to the forefront along with a whiff of hazelnut. Savory and full-bodied, the compelling palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, black licorice and baking spice set against youthfully firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2035Wine Enthusiast | 97 WERipe and packed with cherry, strawberry, wild herb and mineral flavors. Vibrant and beautifully balanced, showing a long fruity and herbal aftertaste. Delivers fine poise and harmony on an elegant frame. Best from 2023 through 2042. 580 cases made, 195 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2015 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a beautifully generous and richly layered wine. It opens first to dark fruit, cassis and dried cherry, but the bouquet takes you on an aromatic journey that remains very faithful to the basics of Barolo. The fruit cedes to dark spice, toasted hazelnut and dusty earth or potting soil. The wine is quite interesting and compelling in terms of mouthfeel. The structure shows a tannic pitch that is sufficient to tie it neatly together. Yet the fleshiness and generosity of the fruit serve to give it more volume and dimension. Fruit comes from a 1.96-hectare south-facing site on the Cavallotto family property in Castiglione Falletto with 40-year-old vines. Production is 7,326 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2015 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a powerful, tightly wound wine that is going to need a few years to soften. Its gorgeous, translucent elegance is impossible to miss. Sweet red berry fruit, gravel, rose petal, mint, licorice and darker earthy tones all run through this compelling, beautifully layered Riserva. Impressive.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis talented guy, Alfio Cavallotto, is a faithful example of traditional viticulture in Barolo. Vignolo is a two-hectare vineyard in Castiglione Falletto where, according to the producer, ’in the warm vintages the vines could develop better balance compared with the sandier soil of Bricco Boschis’. A dark profile of prunes and tar is accompanied by tobacco and chocolate, and possibly stained with Brett. It’s full on the palate with firm, dusty tannins, crisp acidity and a slightly drying finish. A powerful, old-fashioned Barolo.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

Extremely perfumed, showing lots of rose, lavender and dark-berry character. Full body with intense density and chewiness that gives the wine great structure. Lots of flavor and focus at the finish. Needs five to six years to finish. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is just as stunning as it was last year. Bright, floral and punchy, the Gavarini explodes from the glass with blood orange, white pepper, mint and a range of red fruit and floral notes that give energy and drive.Vinous Media | 97 VMGianluca Grasso did not make this wine in 2014, but in 2015, he found the vintage he was looking for. The 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is perfectly wonderful. The wine combines power with elegance, showing long determination as it wraps smoothly over the palate. The mature tannins are well integrated within a profound, ripe and round quality of dark fruit. That juicy and succulent core shows graceful notes of violet, licorice, cola, moist earth and white truffle. Grasso knew that this would be a great vintage and he nailed it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPNot showing much today, this red reveals an undercurrent of iron and black pepper notes supporting the core of cherry, plum, earth and tobacco flavors. Fresh and intense, with a long, resonant aftertaste of fruit, tar and spice. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

There is slightly more structure to the 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté than to the Gavarini Chiniera of the same vintage, and the only differences here are the soils and that this fruit is harvested about ten days later. It’s a pretty fascinating demonstration of the power of the single vineyard. The Gavarini Chiniera parcel offers slightly sandier soils, whereas this site is composed of more clay. In rainy years, the Gavarini Chiniera vineyard drains more effectively, whereas the Ginestra’s soil retains more moisture in the hot and dry vintages. As a result, in vintages such as this one, Ginestra shows a more compact nature and, in general, provides more impact and more structure. This is a very robust expression, extremely linear and tight. The Ginestra Casa Maté narrowly wins this round. It’s another beautiful Barolo.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is creamy, layered and super expressive. All the elements are in the right place. A whole range of deeply spiced, mentholated, balsamic Ginestra notes race out of the glass. With a bit of time, the 2015 starts to open up beautifully. A wine of breath and resonance, the 2015 is just gorgeous today. It hasn’t moved much over the last year, which is a very good thing for its long-term prospects.Vinous Media | 96 VMComplex aromas of figs, ripe strawberries and fresh mushrooms. Full body, firm and tight tannins with a solid core of fruit and a long, linear finish. Great length. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 96 JSPacked with sweet plum, cherry, licorice, iron, tar and leather flavors, this red is alluring and built for the long haul. Lively acidity and dense tannins lend support. Achieves fine balance among all the elements. Patience is required. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 13 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis vineyard lies on a fine slope in Monforte across from Serralunga, and the average age of the vines is 40 years. The nose is piquant, with aromas of dried herbs and flowers as well as red fruits. The palate is sleek, with refined tannins and good acidity, and while there’s no lack of grip it’s not too extracted. It displays a long, fine, spicy finish with just a hint of dryness.Decanter | 92 DEC

Enticing scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry and an earthy whiff of truffle shape the fragrant nose on this dazzling wine. The delicious, full-bodied palate boasts structure and a weightless elegance, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cherry compote, cinnamon and star anise. Taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an elegant structure. It’s already irresistible but will also age well for years. Drink 2022–2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOEnticing scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry and an earthy whiff of truffle shape the fragrant nose on this dazzling wine. The delicious, full-bodied palate boasts structure and a weightless elegance, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cherry compote, cinnamon and star anise. Taut polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an elegant structure. It’s already irresistible but will also age well for years. Drink 2022–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2015 vintage was warmer than 2016, and you can feel it in Bricco Pernice’s penetrating flavors of ripe cherry and raspberry as they glide over powerful, ferrous tannins. Impressively vibrant for the vintage, with detailed scents of rose petals, lavender and orange zest, the wine remains fresh and balanced days after it was opened, indicating a long life ahead.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 97 W&SThe Elvio Cogno 2015 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice delivers the depth, richness and concentration that are a hallmark of this pretty vintage. This wine is a pure expression of the productive Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Generous layers of blackberry, wild cherry, rose hip, ferrous earth and campfire ash are neatly folded together to build the wine’s intensity. Like the other wines from this estate, the tannic management is spot-on. You are aware of the wine’s youthful structure, but it is delivered without hard edges or sharp points. A mere 4,000 bottles were produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Barolo Bricco Pernice is an exotic, beguiling wine. Blood orange, mint, sweet red cherry, star anise and a range of spice notes give the Bricco Pernice striking aromatic and flavor complexity. Medium in body, refined and super-expressive, the 2015 has so much to offer. Best of all, it will drink well with just a few years in bottle. It is such an effortless, gracious wine. Very polished, nuanced and elegant, this silky Barolo has a ton of structure but is also impeccable in its balance.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of camphor and sweet pipe tobacco give way to cherry, tar and wild scrub flavors in this densely structured red, which is elegant and sinewy, with a lingering, chewy finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSRipe and dried-fruit character to the strawberry, floral and citrus aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied and chewy. A little subdued in the palate, but shows ripe, well-formed tannins and vivid fruit. Give it time. Drink after after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2021 Barolo La Serra is contemplative and layered on the nose with aromas of redcurrants, porcini, fresh leather, anise, and floral incense. The palate is focused and pure, with its bright red fruits shining with refreshing acidity, fine, coiled tannins, and a long, graceful finish. It’s a lovely wine with a wide window for enjoyment over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2015 Barolo La Serra is wonderfully silky, aromatic and refined, with all of the lift that is such a signature of this high-altitude La Morra site. Flowers, sweet red cherry, spice, tobacco and cedar are wonderfully delineated. Even more importantly, the aggressive tannins that once often penalized this wine are pretty much absent, a change Marcarini ascribes to gentler handling of the fruit during the initial part of fermentation. This is very nicely done.Vinous Media | 93 VMSpicy, earthy and very ripe with gorgeous aromas and intensity. Full-bodied, tight and very focused with a great finish and length. Shows compact and polished tannins. Goes on for minutes. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 93 JSRed berry, pressed rose, camphor and wild herb aromas shape the nose. Elegantly structured, the taut, lithe palate offers cranberry, sour cherry and star anise alongside a note of mint. Polished tannins and bright acidity keep it fresh and balanced. Drink 2021–2030.Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KORed berry, pressed rose, camphor and wild herb aromas shape the nose. Elegantly structured, the taut, lithe palate offers cranberry, sour cherry and star anise alongside a note of mint. Polished tannins and bright acidity keep it fresh and balanced. Drink 2021–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Hailing from a single vineyard that has slightly sandier soils than the estate’s other sites, this lovely wine boasts structure, elegance and a fragrance of rose petal, wild flower, menthol and perfumed berry. On the precise palate, white pepper and star anise accent a core of wild cherry and crushed raspberry. It’s balanced, with firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2035.Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOHailing from a single vineyard that has slightly sandier soils than the estate’s other sites, this lovely wine boasts structure, elegance and a fragrance of rose petal, wildflower, menthol and perfumed berry. On the precise palate, white pepper and star anise accent a core of wild cherry and crushed raspberry. It’s balanced, with firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2035. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEOffers a gorgeous expression of cherry, strawberry and plum fruit, shaded by tobacco, eucalyptus and tar accents. Remains pure and elegant due to the vibrant structure, showing terrific balance and a long, fresh aftertaste of fruit, wild herbs, tobacco and mineral. Best from 2022 through 2043. 205 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2015 Barolo Margheria is the first single-vinyard Barolo I tasted from Massolino in a lineup that started with the most delicate wine and ended with the most powerful expression. Considering that we are talking about Serralunga d’Alba (the township known for the most powerful Baroli overall), the word "delicate" should be taken with a grain of salt. The vines here are 37 years old, and the soils are slightly looser and sandier in nature. This wine is just slightly more accessible than the other cru expressions with elegant mineral notes that frame dark fruit, spice and pressed violets. This could be a good pairing opportunity with Florentine tripe in a tomato sauce.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2015 Barolo Margheria is more open, with aromatics of grenadine, leather, and fresh tobacco. The palate is ripe, with modest acidity, and is full of dried cherry, tea leaf, and baked earth. Its imposing tannic structure will need time to soften over the next several years, but it should open up. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDMassolino’s 2015 Barolo Margheria is a powerful, driven wine that shows the sinewy muscles of Serralunga off to great effect. Dark red cherry, plum, iron, sage, smoke, white pepper and rose petal open up in the glass, but the Margheria is a wine of structure, power and depth, its mid-weight feel notwithstanding. As is often the case, the Margheria is a beguiling wine that shows the flavor and textural complexity Nebbiolo can reach in Piedmont’s top sites.Vinous Media | 93+ VMAromas of plums, cherries and flowers. Sandalwood, too. Medium-to full-bodied with firm and silky tannins that are chewy. Tannic finish, yet finesse and refinement at the end. Try in 2022.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2015 Barolo Ginestra shows real complexity and depth. It exudes a profound nature in general. Mineral tones lead the clean, fresh entry, followed by more savory notes. This is from Paolo Conterno’s home vineyard cru, with vines planted right up to the edges of the winery and the family house. This Barolo is nuanced and multifaceted, and it will stand up to a couple of decades in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2015 Barolo Ginestra opens with scents of raspberry, orange peel, star anise and cinnamon. Powerful and wiry, the 2015 expresses the essence of Ginestra, with that combination of aromatic intensity and nervous energy that is such a signature. I would cellar it for a few years, as the tannins are a bit edgy at this stage. Alternatively, a few hours of air will to the trick.Vinous Media | 95 VMA delicate version, this nonetheless features a solid backbone of tannins and lively acidity driving the cherry, strawberry, soy, clay and leafy tobacco flavors. Tightly wound, turning more dense on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSGiorgio Conterno did a fine job handling a tricky vintage with his 2014 Ginestra, and the 2015 from this 3ha site in Monforte is magnificent too. Tasted from cask, it’s still reticent but is showing brooding cherry aromas. It’s very ripe and fleshy on the plump but concentrated palate, with elegant tannins and a very long, stylish finish. Perfectly balanced, with neither toughness nor softness.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe dark-berry and fresh mushroom aromas are compelling in this wine. Full-bodied, tight and chewy with wonderful texture and tannins. Solid 2015. Drink from 2022.James Suckling | 94 JS

Fragrant and full bodied, this structured red has enticing aromas evoking woodland berry, balsamic aromas of pine, rose petal and exotic spice. The enveloping palate delivers crushed raspberry, succulent Marasca cherry, licorice and nutmeg alongside firm, tightly knit tannins. Fresh acidity lends tension and balance. Best 2022–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello has a very distinct character that is expressed in terms of its fine but present tannic structure and its somewhat fragile primary fruit. The Ovello dives straight into those ephemeral Nebbiolo aromas with an emphasis on licorice, tar, blue flower and campfire ash. If you consider this timeline of Riservas, this wine brings us through that magic threshold in which Nebbiolo starts to show its unique aromatic appeal and mystique. This is always one of my favorites in this series of nine. Production is 18,741 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPAn opulent and complex version, boasting cherry, strawberry, cut hay, iron and tobacco aromas and flavors. Firms up nicely on the finish, with terrific balance and length. Shows both a fruity and a savory side, with fine potential to age. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,561 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSOvello is the northernmost vineyard in the Barbaresco commune - and the largest. It was one of the original five vineyards individually bottled in 1967 by Produttori. The clayey soils and exposure to the cool northern winds gives this wine a full body and structured tannins. The 2015 features a woody, vanilla-toned fragrance with some delicate cherry fruit. In the mouth it's a latticework of well integrated tannins with lacy acidity draped over deep hedgerow fruits, followed by some subtle wood spice on the long finish. This is one to leave for a few years, but there's so much potential here. 17,000 bottles and 1,200 magnums produced. Drinking Window 2024 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECOne of the stand outs in this range, the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello shows the energy and tension that are so typical of this site, but with a slightly riper profile than is the norm. Then again, we are talking about 2015. Although perhaps not the most classic expression of Ovello, the Produttori's 2015 is very nicely done. Best of all, it will drink well with just a few more years in bottle. This is an especially heady, exotic Ovello Barbaresco that needs to shed some baby fat, its considerable appeal today notwithstanding.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2015 Barolo Fossati is slightly more accessible (by the smallest of margins) with well-defined fruit notes of wild berry and redcurrant, followed by rose hip, spice and dusty mineral or crushed slate. This wine is enormously focused and sharp, right down to its deep inner core, with elegant padding and layering at the back. It shows volume and length. The textural fiber of this wine is slightly more relaxed. This is an elegantly constructed and conceived expression of Nebbiolo from one of La Morra’s most gifted artisans.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVoerzio’s 2015 Barolo Fossati is gorgeous. As always, the Fossati has a slightly nervous quality to its tannins. In this vintage, that’s a plus, as it gives the wine tension, energy and focus, all of which work so well in balancing the natural radiance of the fruit. This mid-weight Barolo packs plenty of punch and depth/Vinous Media | 95 VMA dense and fruity red with plums, dark berries, chocolate and hazelnuts throughout. Full body, creamy textured tannins and a chewy yet polished finish. Needs two or three years to come together. Better in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JS

This is an exotic and opulent La Serra with ripe-fruit, orange-peel and terracotta aromas, as well as dust. Full body, polished yet chewy tannins and an extremely rich and long finish. Astonishing power and richness. Austerity with class. Reminds me of the perfect 1997. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 100 JS

Perhaps the most robust and solid of the three wines by Roberto Voerzio tasted this year, the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is built like a little tank, or motor, that keeps moving forward no matter what. You taste that spirit and determination thanks to the elegantly aligned fruit and spice flavors that make up the wine’s elaborate profile. However, I also taste the 2015 vintage characteristics of rich and concentrated fruit to a greater degree in the Rocche dell’Annunziata. There is a point of softness here that you don’t get in Fossati or Cerequio. I tasted the open bottle again 24 hours later and was treated to beautiful notes of mint and balsam herb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSimilar notes of mulled black cherries, menthol, toasted spices, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata. It has the ripe, sexy style of the vintage, medium to full-bodied richness, an elegant, seamless texture, and a great finish. There are plenty of tannins here, yet they’re sweet and polished, and this beauty already offers pleasure. Nevertheless, it’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and should have three decades of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is laced with the essence of crushed raspberry, flowers, cedar, spice and tobacco. Silky and lifted in the glass, with a real sense of translucent beauty, the 2015 hits all the right notes. It’s a super classic Barolo from one of La Morra’s greatest sites.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Camphor, dark spice, wild herb and woodland berry aromas shape the nose. On the focused palate, bright acidity and taut, refined tannins accompany crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry and star anise. Mint and orange zest notes give depth to the finish. Drink 2023–2031.Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOCamphor, dark spice, wild herbs and woodland berry aromas shape the nose. On the focused palate, bright acidity and taut, refined tannins accompany crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry and star anise. Mint and orange zest notes give depth to the finish. Drink 2023–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WERose, cherry and licorice aromas and flavors are accented by leather, tobacco and spice in this focused and complex red. Balanced, but the dusty tannins will need a year or two to integrate. Best from 2022 through 2043. 830 cases made, 119 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA ripe but balanced and very impressive Barbaresco. The first indications of this are the intense strawberry essence, leather, dried red plums and pretty, lifted orange rind. Beautifully mouth-filling and complex in the palate, drawing together strands of ripe tannin and flavorful fruit. Powerful on the robust but well articulated finish. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSEven at a relatively spritely age, the 2016 Barbaresco Bordini is showing some carefully evolved notes and a subdued style. The wine feels well contoured and shaped with softened layers of bramble and wild berry. There is bright elegance and grace here. Pair it with some mild goat or sheep milk cheeses, such as robiola.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2016 Barbaresco Bordini is a classy, polished wine. This is an especially gracious wine from Bordini, where the Barbarescos are often bigger. Sweet spice, tobacco, menthol, licorice and cloves add lovely shades of nuance. Dark in its expression and also tightly wound, the 2016 is very nicely done. I confess, though, I would like to see a little more excitement here.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2016 Barbaresco Montestefano is magical. Bright and translucent, the 2016 pulses with energy from the very first taste. This is about as classic as things get in Barbaresco today. Sweet rose petal, cinnamon, dried flowers, cedar and mint all give this ethereal, wonderfully nuanced Barbaresco ton of subtlety. A kick of bright Nebbiolo acids and tannins give energy and shape.Vinous Media | 95 VM