Wines with Age

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Aromas of dark chocolate and blackberry, with hints of black olives. Full-bodied, with chewy, polished tannins and loads of ripe fruit, tapenade and flowers. A complex and complete wine. Still needs time. One of the best ever from here.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 1,085 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSI drank a bottle of 1998 L’Eglise Clinet Pomerol yesterday in Beverly Hills at the Italian restaurant Via Alloro with Hong Kong wine merchant Paulo Pong, who also blogs for my web site. The L’Eglise was still very young and in reserve. We decanted it before drinking, but it still was a little tight. I think it needs more bottle time. Nonetheless, it was soft and silky yet firm and gorgeous. It was full-bodied with a gorgeous core of raspberry and spices on the palate, with chocolate and mahogany notes.James Suckling | 97 JSThe Château l’Eglise-Clinet 1998 has developed an absolutely stunning bouquet: precocious, glycerin-rich red cherries, cassis, violets and minerals all beautifully defined and so intense. The palate is full-bodied with ripe tannin, layers of sweet blackberry and wild strawberry fruit intermingling with white pepper, cumin, black truffle and tar. There is a crescendo towards the finish that just fans out across the mouth. After 17 years (which makes me feel old, as I remember tasting it from barrel), it is a Pomerol that will take on all comers in the appellation with the exception of the 1998 Petrus. It will give 40-50 years worth of drinking pleasure. Tasted March 2015.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 96 RP-NMThe 1998 l’Eglise-Clinet was picked 21 to 26 September. This formed my introduction to the property and I still remember the impact of tasting this vintage from barrel. Durantou opened three bottles as the first two showed a little TCA. It has a wonderful bouquet that is fragrant and pure: redcurrant, cranberry, a touch of kirsch, hints of marmalade and orange rind. It captures Pomerol at its most opulent without excess. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, dense black fruit laced with truffle with a very complex, mineral-driven, truffle and morels infused finish that lingers long in the mouth. Tasted at the l’Eglise-Clinet vertical at the château in April 2018.Vinous Media | 95 VMAs I shared with the attendees to the tasting, I had been a big fan of Chateau l’Église-Clinet back in the 1980s and had bought and happily drunk cases of both the 1985 and 1986 here. However, by the time I started covering En Primeur campaigns with the 2009 vintage, the style at the property had gotten more overtly modern and the quality had slipped in my opinion. So, I was very curious to taste the 1998, which had never crossed my path previously, to see if the more modern house style was already well ensconced here by 1998. Sadly, this seems to have been the case. The wine is still nicely flamboyant on the nose, jumping from the glass in a mix of plums, black raspberries, a bit of tariness, chocolate, violets, a modicum of soil tones and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and fairly extracted in style, with a fair bit of well-integrated tannins, good focus and grip and a long, fairly four-square finish. This is solid, respectable example of 1998, but it is not materially better than wines such as Pavie-Macquin or La Dominique, despite being far pricier and having loftier ambitions. (Drink between 2030-2070)John Gilman | 90 JG

So much black truffle in the aroma here with blackberry and blueberry character, too. Full body, solid and stalwart. The layers of velvety tannins are impressive. I love the balance and energy to this. Underlines the greatness of 1998 for Pomerol and harks back to 1950. Just starting to be drinkable now.James Suckling | 98 JSComplex aromas of blackberry, fresh mushrooms, tobacco and wet earth. Full-bodied, soft and luxurious texture to this ripe and opulent wine. Long and decadent too. Just coming around now. Give it more time. L’Evangile at its finest.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2011. 3,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS72% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc. This has real depth of flavour and intensity that keep you gripped from start to finish. Near to its perfect drinking window. Amazing freshness at 20 years old; you can feel the flesh of the soft autumnal berry fruit given an edge by the curling cigar smoke. A true Right Bank vintage – and even more clearly a true Pomerol vintage. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032.Decanter | 96 DECDeep garnet-brick colored and blended of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, the nose of the 1998 L’Evangile has the most intensely perfumed scents of potpourri, fallen leaves, Chinese five spice, camphor and new leather over a core of crème de cassis, prunes, star anise, dusty soil and tobacco with wafts of dried lavender and cinnamon stick. Medium to full-bodied, rich and decadent in the mouth, it has layer upon layer of spice and savory notions with a plush frame and refreshing lift on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPFull medium ruby. Fabulous nose combines black raspberry, sweet oak, bitter chocolate, truffle and mint, all lifted by a cool, slightly medicinal black cherry note of cabernet franc. Penetrating, pure, youthfully bound-up black fruit and licorice flavors. Densely packed and extremely backward. Finishes with very firm, oak-powered tannins. A superb, powerfully structured vintage for this wine, to drink between 2010 and 2025.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

The difference in aromatic power between 1997 and 1998 - a particularly good year in Pomerol - is wonderfully instructive: this displays its violet signature on the nuanced nose, while the flavours are soft, early-tertiary but hugely persistent, gently tugging you back in. It’s a stunning wine, the tannins present but with an overall impression of carefully placed elegance and enrobed power. Of the four vintages tasted so far, this has the most time left ahead of it. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 95 DEC(Chateau La Conseillante) The 1998 La Conseillante is another absolutely stellar example of this vintage. The wine delivers an utterly refined aromatic constellation of red and black raspberries, plums, gravelly soil tones, a nice touch of fresh herbs, cigar smoke, just a hint of tariness and a suave framing of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full, with a sappy core of fruit, lovely soil undertow, fine-grained tannins and a very long, complex and velvety finish. This is a tad more forward in personality than the Certan de May or Trotanoy right now, and if one has more than a few bottles in the cellar, it is hardly a crime to drink it today. However, my gut instinct is that it is still on the youngish side and it will be an even more complete glass of wine with another five years in the cellar. This is clearly a step up from the lovely wines made here in the 1989 and 1990 vintages. (Drink between 2027 - 2085)John Gilman | 95 JGAlmost black in color. Hugely rich, ripe bouquet with dark fruits. A hint of tobacco, plus structured tannins and acidity give the wine shape. The richness and depth of fruit are here, but so also is the ability to age. Give this 10 years before matruity.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WETasted at the La Conseillante vertical at Chez Bruce. The first bottle is oxidized, the second better with an intense bouquet with hints of mint, coca and mocha, showing more Cabernet Franc character than recent bottles, with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, quite fresh and vibrant with grainy tannins, good acidity and persistency with a meaty, savoury, Cabernet Franc driven finish. Very fine and it improves with time, with an edgy citrus finish and delicious dark chocolate/espresso decorating the aftertaste. I have had better bottles of the ’98, but this is still a lovely Pomerol that should enter its plateau in the next couple of years. Tasted December 2010.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93+ RP-NMThe 1998 La Conseillante is a wine that I had not encountered since 2010. This is certainly more vigorous than the previous three vintages: raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of mocha and leather, and a sprig of wild heather in the background all with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with taut tannin and a superb line of acidity that maintains the vigor of this Pomerol. It feels tensile and alive; a blend of red and black fruit mixed with black truffle, clove and sage, leading to a sustained finish that fans out with confidence. At twenty years old the 1998 La Conseillante continues to state its claim as the best wine of that decade. Tasted at La Conseillante vertical at the property.Vinous Media | 93 VMNo written review provided. | 92 W&SStarts off slightly herbal, but then turns to flowers, leaves and dark fruits. Decadent, turning to sweet tobacco. Full-bodied, with beautiful silky tannins and a meaty, berry and spicy aftertaste that evolves to chocolate and coffee. Complex and refined. No reason to wait.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 4,580 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Alluring from the get-go, with layers of warmed raspberry, plum and boysenberry confiture pumping along, carried by a remarkably dense but creamy structure. The finish shows hints of rooibos tea, alder and singed pain d'épices, giving this impressive range. Seems like this is just getting warmed up.—Non-blind La Fleur-Pétrus vertical (December 2015). Best from 2020 through 2035.Wine Spectator | 97 WSJust now coming into its own, the LFP 1998 shows how wonderful this vintage is for Pomerol. It’s soft and silky with lovely character of fruit, wet earth and mushrooms. Some flowers too. Silky and fresh. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSBordeaux enthusiasts would have to go back to 1947 to find a La Fleur-Petrus this spectacular. The 1998 exhibits a dense purple color, an extremely high level of tannin, powerful, full-bodied flavors (black cherries, mocha, and currants galore), and a style reminiscent of the mighty Petrus. In addition to the wine's hallmark purity and elegance, Christian Moueix has built in more muscle, strength, and concentration. Prospective purchasers will, however, need patience, as this wine requires bottle aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025. Bravo!Robert Parker | 93-95 RPRed-ruby. Deep aromas of kirsch, graphite and smoky oak. Fat, thick, concentrated and deep; quite fleshy but with backbone. Already offers enticing inner-mouth perfume. Long, satisfying finish features thoroughly ripe tannins and very persistent, sweet, chocolatey fruit. This is turning out very well indeed.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Richly-scented like you wouldn’t believe, earthy truffle, undergrowth, black olive and rosemary fill the glass as your nose hovers over it, and don’t let up right through the palate, providing waves of first aroma then flavour. At 22 years old this provides apt evidence of why Petrus 1998 is a legend of 20th century wine. The vintage plays to all of Petrus’ strengths; a classic Merlot year that here combines velvety soft-edged tannins that caress and cushion the abundant black cherry, blackberry and bilberry fruit. Traces of campfire, mocha and liquorice are shot through every mouthful, and this is just so good. Jean-Claude Berrouet was at the helm at this point, expertly conducting the many strands of the wine. Harvest September 21, 22 and 23. A small yield meant just 2,400 cases compared to the usual 4,000. 50% new oak. Drinking Window 2020 - 2032.Decanter | 100 DECThe 1998 Petrus goes from strength to strength as it ages. It’s a perfect wine and the wine of the vintage with Le Pin and Cheval Blanc. I was lucky enough to drink some over the weekend when a friend brought a bottle to dinner. It was stunning. It’s so deep and characterful yet refined and subtle. It showed aromas of wet earth, mushrooms and dark fruits. Dry black olives came out as well. Full body, firm tannins and bright acidity. Very fresh and just opening up now. Walnut and chocolate character. So youthful. Decant two or three hours before serving.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 1998 Petrus never fails to deliver. This is a fabulous example that confirms it is a true tour de force. It has a compelling bouquet with mineral-rich black and red fruit with unerring purity. In this bottle, I notice a hint of hickory not observed previously. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, perfect acidity and a sense of tension that counterbalances the sheer power and ambition of this, the best Bordeaux of the vintage bar none. I was not quite moved to give this a perfect three-figure score, but it flirts with perfection. Tasted at the Petrus dinner at Hide restaurant in London and at Epure restaurant in Hong Kong.Vinous Media | 99 VMGreen olives and blackberry jam, with hints of vanilla and Indian spices. Some dark chocolate too. Complex nose. Very full-bodied, with dense, dark fruits and a licorice undertone, yet the huge tannin structure is polished and almost seamless. A massive and powerful wine, yet balanced and refined. Fantastic. Just a beautiful baby still.--’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2012.Wine Spectator | 99 WSThe 1998 Petrus is unquestionably a fabulous effort boasting a dense plum/purple color as well as an extraordinary nose of black fruits intermixed with caramel, mocha, and vanilla. Exceptionally pure, super-concentrated, and extremely full-bodied, with admirable underlying acidity as well as sweet tannin, it reveals a superb mid-palate in addition to the luxurious richness for which this great property is known. The finish lasts for 40-45 seconds. Patience will definitely be required. Production was 2,400 cases, about 1,600 cases less than normal. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2040Robert Parker | 98 RPNo written review provided. | 98 W&S

No written review provided. | 97 W&SRich and decadent on the nose, with raspberry jam and Indian spices. Full-bodied, with an almost dusty texture. Long and seamless, with beautiful, firm tannins and a racy finish. Wonderfully delicate sweet fruit on the finish. Needs a few more years to open.--’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2011. 1,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA fine offering, the 1998 has closed down, but there is no doubting its fabulous potential. The color is a dense purple. The wine reveals high tannin, huge body, and classy black fruits intermixed with minerals, spice box, cedar, and tobacco. A long, persistent, tannic finish gives this majestic effort a closed but formidable personality. Patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.Robert Parker | 92 RPBright ruby-red. Cassis, raspberry, cedar, lead pencil and spicy oak on the nose. Rich, sweet and deep, with firm acids giving grip and verve to the plum, raspberry, lead pencil and bitter chocolate flavors. Wonderfully concentrated, lively and very long. The yield here, according to Thienpont, was just 34 hectoliters per hectare.Vinous Media | 92 VM(Vieux Château Certan) As noted above, 1998 was destined to be the inaugural vintage of VCC for the new cépage of sixty percent merlot, thirty percent cabernet franc and ten percent cabernet sauvignon, but due to the season, the grand vin actually ended up being comprised of eighty-five percent merlot, ten percent cabernet sauvignon and only five percent cabernet franc. At age eleven the wine looks to be very promising indeed, but one has to wonder whether or not a VCC such as 1998 with so little cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon will eventually show the classic profile of this estate. The deep and vibrant nose jumps from the glass in a really lovely blend of cassis, dark berries, tobacco, espresso, soil and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and nascently complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm, well-integrated tannins, lovely focus and great length and grip on the palate-staining finish. At this point in the wine’s evolution there is still a bit of oak tannin that needs to be more fully absorbed into the depth of fruit here, but the wine is impeccably balanced and this should only be a matter of a few more years of bottle age. This is a very strong and fairly classic example of the vintage that still demands many more years in the cellar before starting to drink it. It will be very interesting to follow this wine and see how it ultimately stacks up with some of the great past vintages of VCC. (Drink between 2016-2050)John Gilman | 92 JG