Wines with Age

wines

A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPAdmittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples.Vinous Media | 97 VMDark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2017. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That is what great wines can do.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe prodigious 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis possesses a dark saturated garnet color. The sweet nose of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, smoke, dried herbs, and wet stones is stunning. Amazingly concentrated, with tremendous unctuousity yet superb delineation, this large-scaled as well as elegant Barolo possesses fabulous extract as well as a multidimensional mid-palate and finish. It is an amazing effort! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RPMedium ruby red color. Very opulent aromas of plum, roses and spice. Full-bodied, with exotic fruit flavors and layers of silky tannins. Amazing fruit. Breathtaking. Hard not to drink now. Even better than I remember.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. 1,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Conterno’s 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a towering, gigantic wine. Layers of sweet perfumed fruit flow across the palate in this gracious, refined yet powerful Monfortino. Hints of sweet red berries, roses, licorice and spices wrap around the deeply resonant finish. This is another wine that begs for patience. Today it is an infant. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2041.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a wine that appears to be going through an adolescent, unsettled phase. Several recent bottles have been quite stubborn, but this magnum is a bit better. Elegant and silky in feel, the 2001 gives the impression that it will mature earlier than some of the surrounding vintages. I know that will surprises more than a few Vinous readers – it surprises me too – but that’s just the way things look right now.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2001 Monfortino will be a magical wine, but it is very, very young today and still very shut down and in need of several more years of cellaring before it is even open enough for proper inspection. What struck me most poignantly about this vintage of Monfortino is how pure and red fruity it is out of the blocks, which is fairly rare for this normally quite black fruity interpretation of Barolo greatness. The bouquet is deep, hauntingly pure and transparent, as it soars from the glass in a very primary mélange of red cherries, orange zest, woodsmoke, herbs, coffee, a great base of soil and plenty of roses in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure and absolutely rock solid at the core, with brisk acids, ripe, well-integrated and substantial tannins, brilliant focus and balance and stunning length and grip on the very young, refined finish. A great Monfortino in the works. (Drink between 2020 - 2075)John Gilman | 96+ JGOffers sweet plum and sultana aromas, with hints of citrus fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, with soft, sweet tannins and cedar, cappuccino and sweet fruit flavors. Long and gorgeous. Hard not to drink now. Best after 2012. 855 cases made, 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

I was blown away by the breathtaking purity and definition of Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis. A translucent dark ruby, this weightless yet sumptuous Barolo bursts from the glass with layers of dark ripe fruit that coat the palate with stunning grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass notes of licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak gradually emerge to complete this magnificent wine. I tasted this along with the 2001, which has shut down considerably since I last tasted it earlier this year. Today the 2004 is the more elegant wine although the 2001 looks to be more powerful and perhaps longer-lived. My rating of the 2001 (95) appears to have been conservative by about 2 points. One of the highlights of the vintage, Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPJust as impressive as it was at the outset, the 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis remains fresh, vibrant and absolutely impeccable. Black cherries, plums, spices meld into mocha, menthol and leather as this plush, inviting Barolo shows off its alluring personality. As good as the 2004 is today, it truthfully still needs time to show all of its cards. The towering, statuesque finish is a thing of beauty. I hope to do a vertical someday with the 2001, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2010 just to see how the vintages stack up. There is little doubt the 2004 is one of the best vintages of the Cannubi Boschis in recent memory.Vinous Media | 98 VMAromas of rose petal and ripe fruit, with plum undertones. Full-bodied, with wonderful, focused ripe fruit and a silky, refined finish. The texture is polished and refined. This is classy. Best after 2012. 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe Cannubi Boschis cru (also known as Monghisolfo) is known for the excellent quality of its fruit. This expression is particularly austere and elegant and would fit appropriately in a gentleman’s smoking room or other such formal context. The aromas recall old leather, cigar box, dried rose petal and dried figs. Very interesting, very tight and firm.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Blackberry, black truffles, red fruits, minerals and flowers. This is superb with a dense and powerful palate of dark fruits and minerals. Goes on for minutes. Tight and racy. Try after 2014.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2007 Barolo Brunate is likely to leave most tasters speechless. It is a fabulous, deeply-pitched, totally seamless Barolo of the highest level. The richness and depth of the fruit is almost obscenely opulent. Dark cherries, plums, licorice and menthol are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this textured, brilliant Brunate. The length, persistence and definition are all spellbinding purity. This is pure magic in a glass, but readers will have to be patient to catch the wine at its peak. A recent magnum of the 1990 was stupendous. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2007 Barolo Brunate is likely to leave most tasters speechless. It is a fabulous, deeply-pitched, totally seamless Barolo of the highest level. The richness and depth of the fruit is almost obscenely opulent. Dark cherries, plums, licorice and menthol are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this textured, brilliant Brunate. The length, persistence and definition are all spellbinding purity. This is pure magic in a glass, but readers will have to be patient to catch the wine at its peak. A recent magnum of the 1990 was stupendous.Vinous Media | 98 VMMentholated herbs and black cherry are the main flavor themes, with a touch of rhubarb, while a firm grip of tannins anchors the finish. A lean, sinewy 2007, with a long finish of tar and spice. Not the typical elegance of this cru. Best from 2016 through 2035. 270 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Vietti's 2007 Barolo Rocche is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. The bouquet alone is transcendental. The voluptuous, classy Rocche shows off endless layers of fruit in an exciting and totally alluring expression of Nebbiolo. The wine seems to float on the palate, as the essence of geraniums, red berries, hard candy and minerals conquer all of the senses. Fine, silky tannins frame a finish of breathtaking beauty. The Rocche spent a full 5 weeks of contact on the skins. Like all the Vietti Baroli, malolactic fermentation was carried out in French oak after which the wine was racked into large, neutral casks for aging. The 2007 Rocche is the very finest wine I have ever tasted from Vietti. I only hope Alfredo Currado had a chance to taste this at least a few times before he passed away last year. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPVietti's 2007 Barolo Rocche is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. The bouquet alone is transcendental. The voluptuous, classy Rocche shows off endless layers of fruit in an exciting and totally alluring expression of Nebbiolo. The wine seems to float on the palate, as the essence of geraniums, red berries, hard candy and minerals conquer all of senses. Fine, silky tannins frame a finish of breathtaking beauty. The Rocche spent a full 5 weeks of contact on the skins. Like all the Vietti Baroli, malolactic fermentation was carried out in French oak after which the wine was racked into large, neutral cask for aging. The 2007 Rocche is the very finest wine I have ever tasted from Vietti. I only hope that Alfredo Currado had a chance to taste this at least a few times before he passed away last year.Vinous Media | 99 VMThe Vietti family makes formidable Barolos with strength and finesse. Rocche is one of its best vineyards. This is a monumental wine, with beautiful character of dried berries, milk chocolate and hints of hazelnut. Full-bodied, balanced and delicious already.James Suckling | 98 JSThis tight-fisted red shows a firm grip of tannins surrounding menthol, black cherry and tea flavors. A bit tough and dry on the finish, but vibrant and long. The sweet fruit returns on the aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2028. 366 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2008 Barolo (magnum) is a stunner, as it has always been. Intensely aromatic, silky and layered, the 2008 is so elegant. I especially admire its vibrancy and overall freshness, both signatures of the year. Plum, dried flowers, crushed rocks and lavender build in an undeniably sexy Barolo that hits all the right notes.Vinous Media | 98 VMMascarello’s 2008 Barolo is a wine of extraordinary elegance. A sweet, open bouquet leads to dark red fruit, mint, spices and licorice in this pretty, nuanced Barolo. The 2008 is all about detail and understated finesse. It boasts breathtaking purity in its fruit and fabulous overall balance. A textured, finely-knit finish leaves a lasting impression. The 2008 is very classic in style. It will require considerable patience, despite its deceptively medium-bodied structure. This is another dazzling wine from Maria-Theresa Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPGorgeous aromas of flowers, dried berries and fresh mushroom that open even more to flowers. Then goes to raspberries. Full to medium body, with a pretty austerity and raciness. Firm and sexy. The texture is very silky. Needs at least three to four year more in the bottle.James Suckling | 95 JSThere’s a dark element to this intense, juicy red, offering black currant and blackberry notes, with a violet accent. Harmonious and supple, revealing refined tannins and a long, fruit-filled finish. Best from 2015 through 2028.Wine Spectator | 92 WSTraditional Barolo of the highest order: a little firm yet will mature beautifully.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is beautifully balanced from start to finish. Freshly cut flowers, mint, licorice, hard candy and dark red fruit are layered in this utterly impeccable Barolo. Waves of fruit build toward a huge, dramatic finish supported by serious tannins, yet the Brunate remains one of the more understated wines here. The Brunate is all about length, weightless elegance and an elusiveness that is only matched by the greatest Burgundies. This is a dazzling effort. Readers should expect the Brunate to take the better part of a decade to become expressive. Following the Brunate over the course of several days was immensely rewarding. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2008 Barolo Brunate is beautifully balanced from start to finish. Freshly cut flowers, mint, licorice, hard candy and dark red fruit are layered in this utterly impeccable Barolo. Waves of fruit build toward a huge, dramatic finish supported by serious tannins, yet the Brunate remains one of the more understated wines here. The Brunate is all about length, weightless elegance and an elusiveness that is only matched by the greatest Burgundies. This is a dazzling effort. Readers should expect the Brunate to take the better part of a decade to become expressive. Following the Brunate over the course of several days was immensely rewarding.Vinous Media | 98 VMBlackberries with hints of coffee and dried flowers on the nose. Turns to mushrooms. Full body, with firm and chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Tight and not giving much. Needs a couple of years to soften on the palate.James Suckling | 93 JSThe sweet cherry and floral core is accented by bouillon, soy and black tea flavors in this elegant, vibrant red, which persists with fine length and a finish of tea and tobacco. Racy. Best from 2016 through 2030. 266 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Structured but extremely elegant, this opens with an intense fragrance of violet, rose, wild berry, leather, underbrush and balsamic notes. The delicious, focused palate delivers crushed black cherry layered with notes of exotic spices, licorice, sage and black pepper, perfectly balanced by assertive tannins and vibrant energy. It already boasts gripping depth, but this has serious aging potential.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEFlashes of exotic fruit aromas with notes of coffee and spice. Full and round on the palate with a hint of velvet already. A beautiful flower still tightly in bud. Drinking Window 2020 - 2040.Decanter | 98 DECThe single-vineyard 2010 Barolo Cannubi Boschis speaks in confident tones at high volumes. First produced in 1985, Cannubi Boschis is among the first single vineyard cru expressions made in Barolo. Thirty-five-year-old vines enjoy south and southeast exposures at 250 meters above sea level. The long 2010 growing season has favored optimal tannin ripeness and fine complexity on the bouquet. This is one of the standout wines of this celebrated vintage. It is well worth putting this wine at the back of your cellar where it will be untouched for years. Drink: 2017-2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2010 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic maturity. Dark and dense on the palate, the 2010 remains massively tannic in feel, though. Tasting the 2010 next to the current releases shows the style prevalent at the time that favored more overt fruit, greater extraction and heavier oak signatures. Black cherry, espresso, chocolate, menthol and dried flowers all develop as the 2010 opens up with time in the glass. This is dark, virile and powerful in style; I would wait a few years, as it is going through a phase of closure today.Vinous Media | 97 VMA beautiful and refined wine with plum, dried berry and flower character. Full body, with fine tannins. Wonderful length. Super integrated. Long finish. Try in 2017.James Suckling | 95 JSInitially reduced and showing more woodsy, balsamic notes than fruit, this offers firm, ripe tannins and a complex structure that supports the eucalyptus, sage, juniper and tobacco flavors. The cherry character is submerged for now, though this fans out on the lingering, refined finish. Best from 2018 through 2033. 850 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The aromas of flowers, blackberries, and white truffles are superb. Full to medium body and ultra-fine tannins. The finish lasts for minutes. An amazing Cicala. Don't miss this. Drink in 2022.James Suckling | 99 JSAromas of dark berry, iris, menthol and a whiff of oak emerge on this vibrant wine. Firmly structured but loaded with finesse, the palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, crushed black raspberry, vanilla, savory mineral and thyme alongside fine-grained tannins. A licorice note wraps around the tight finish. This is still primary so be sure to give it time to fully develop. Drink 2025–2045.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2013 Barolo Bussia Cicala is a beautiful wine with impressive depth and a profound sense of sharpness. This part of the Bussia cru sees a mix of clay soils (40%) with limestone (60%). In a sense, Cicala is the most indicative of the greater Bussia cru both in terms of its geological properties and its general taste profile. You get a lot of fruit in this wine followed by tannic firmness and evident power. Together, the wine presents balanced results. The alcohol here is 14.5% and I'm told that the upcoming 2016 vintage is almost a full degree stronger.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSour-cherry and red-fruit aromas are less perfumed than Colonnello but more assertive. Very concentrated with structure and vibrancy, and more texture and grip than Colonnello. Very long. Drinking Window 2020 - 2040.Decanter | 94 DECThis starts out with brilliant macerated cherry flavors, accented by rose, tar, spice and mineral elements. Firm, yet pure, complex and long, with a dense matrix of tannins shoring up the finish. Offers a fine, brambly aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2043. 400 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today. Even so, the best is clearly yet to come. Patience will be rewarded.Vinous Media | 99 VMSubtle aromas of cherry, wild herb and tobacco introduce this sleek, complex version, while cherry, strawberry, loam, iron and tobacco flavors build in intensity to the extended finish. But what truly defines this superb and silky Barolo is the texture and harmony, with a fine weave to the dense tannins. All the components come together on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2050. 1,666 cases made.Wine Spectator | 99 WSWarm aromas of plums, rose petals and spices with hints of sandalwood. Some tar. Full body, dense center palate with glorious fruit and a fantastic finish. Very, very polished and fine tannins. Vertical and deep. A great Monfortino. Try in 2023.James Suckling | 99 JSI have been tasting this wine from barrel for the past two years and now finally, abracadabra, the 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is safely housed in bottle. The wine was bottled in June of last year and will hit the market this upcoming October. The Barolo Francia was not produced in 2013 because Roberto Conterno diverted all fruit from that vineyard to this wine. Monfortino was not produced in 2011 or 2012, meaning that this 2013 edition follows directly after the absolutely stunning 2010 vintage (which earned a perfect 100-point score). The two vintages (2010 and 2013) are very similar, strikingly so, but the 2013 vintage registers at a slightly lower structural threshold. The tannins are slightly looser, or softer in the case of this wine. With up to six years in botte, the 2010 vintage is still crunchy and super sharp, while this wine is slightly more succulent and earthy. Some 20,000 bottles, 2,500 magnums and 400 three-liter bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPAfter the celebrated 2010, Monfortino is not disappointing in the cool and classic 2013 vintage as it suffers more in the warm vintages than the fresher ones. This Riserva is rich with fresh and savoury aromas of red cassis, cherry and blood orange, full of cinnamon spice and balsamic notes with a minty finish that’s intoxicating in its depth. On the palate it’s velvety with pleasant and ripe tannins and full and consistent structure. Overall, it’s perfectly balanced and will age for decades but is delicious for drinking now.Decanter | 97 DEC

Classic Nebbiolo aromas of new leather, menthol, pressed rose, perfumed wild berry and chopped aromatic herb continuously lift out of the glass. The luminous, delicious palate delivers layers of succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and star anise set against a backbone of youthfully assertive but ultra-fine tannins. Bright acidity gives it wonderful balance while a note of pipe tobacco graces the lingering finish. Drink 2028–2048. Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOClassic Nebbiolo aromas of new leather, menthol, pressed rose, perfumed wild berry and chopped aromatic herb continuously lift out of the glass. The luminous, delicious palate delivers layers of succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and star anise set against a backbone of youthfully assertive but fine tannins. Bright acidity gives it wonderful balance while a note of pipe tobacco graces the lingering finish. Drink 2028–2048Wine Enthusiast | 98 WERinaldi’s 2013 Barolo Brunate is dark, sensual and super-inviting. A wine of restraint, the 2013 is endowed with terrific depth and tons of personality. At the same time, the 2013 is not an explosive wine (like the 2010), but rather a Barolo that speaks to total finesse. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, violet and hard candy inflections give the 2013 much of its exceptional beauty and resonance. The wine’s sheer inner sweetness makes it nearly impossible to put down the glass.Vinous Media | 97+ VMThe 2013 Barolo Brunate is very much driven by the excellence of the vintage. There is a profound level of power and intensity here that pushes the limits of the quality spectrum of this versatile and somewhat elastic vineyard. Brunate gives good results in the so-so vintages. In the great vintages (like 2013), this is the happy result. The wine opens to a darker sense of earthiness and rich fruit. Indeed, the tannic structure of the wine is almost crunchy or crystalline now in its youth. The wine is nervous and tightly bound at the moment. This Barolo requires plenty of patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPMenthol and wild herb aromas and flavors combine with a core of steeped cherry, tar and tobacco in this elegant red. Refined tannins lend support. The finish lingers with a mineral element. Best from 2020 through 2036. 900 cases made, 160 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA Barolo traditionalist classic, still fragrant and shy on the raspberry-scented nose. Juicy and concentrated, the very ripe fruit is balanced by forthright tannins. Admirable energy and balance here, and good length.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2015 Barolo Monvigliero is a wine of pure and total seduction. The warm vintage has filled out the wine’s frame beautifully. The interplay of ripe, succulent 2015 fruit and aromatic intensity from the whole clusters yields a positively stunning, breathtaking wine of the very highest level. Once again, Burlotto’s Barolo Monvigliero takes a place among the most compelling wines of the vintage. Readers who can find it should not hesitate!Vinous Media | 98 VMFabio Alessandria impressed with his Monvigliero 2014. In the cool, rainy vintage he was able to produce a Barolo with a Pinot-like elegance. He was one of the first producers to introduce a small amount of stalks to the Nebbiolo during winemaking. In the warm vintage of 2015 his Monvigliero is extremely pale and garnet-coloured yet full of fresh flowery notes such as peony, violet and rose, with rhubarb plant, wild strawberry and cinnamon candy aromas and flavours. Super elegant, it shows firm, velvety tannins with an austere finish yet a great integration of fruit. Rarely is it possible to taste such a balance of elegance and power.Decanter | 98 DECI mentioned that slightly wild side of Verduno in a previous review for Comm. G.B. Burlotto. For further clarity on this point, put your nose into the beautiful 2015 Barolo Monvigliero. This is a subdued and graceful wine that grows in intensity the longer it stays in the glass. The wine offers blue flower aromas with violets, wild rose, cumin seed, saffron and crushed mineral. This wine plays its best cards when you focus on the smallest details, and then suddenly, those tiny brush strokes explode into a big-picture, panoramic view of one of the most celebrated vineyard sites in Barolo.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPCompelling and fragrant, this gorgeous wine opens with intense aromas of pressed rose, fragrant blue flower, incense, pine and a whiff of smoky flint. The precise, structured palate is loaded with finesse, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, licorice and white pepper alongside tangy mineral and an earthy hint of black olive. It’s beautifully balanced, with enveloping, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2040. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOCompelling and fragrant, this gorgeous wine opens with intense aromas of pressed rose, fragrant blue flower, incense, pine and a whiff of smoky flint. The precise, structured palate is loaded with finesse, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, licorice and white pepper alongside tangy mineral and an earthy hint of black olive. It’s beautifully balanced, with enveloping, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAromatic, offering juniper, green olive, sandalwood and cherry scents. The fruit components expand in the mouth, but this red is savory overall. Firm, supple and elegant, with a lingering aftertaste of mineral and spice. Best from 2022 through 2040. 583 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe swirling, aromatic nose is entrancing here. The flowery charm is undeniable and the palate has an ethereal frame of fine tannins, carrying beautifully defined, ripe red-cherry flavor. The use of whole clusters works very well here, adding life and lift to this riper vintage. This is a beautiful 2015. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2015 Barolo Francia is a soaring, regal wine endowed with tremendous intensity in all of its dimensions. The most reticent and inward of the 2015s, the Francia possesses superb textural density and persistence all the way through to the explosive finish. An immense, towering Barolo, the Francia is positively stellar. It is also going to require a number of years to be at its best. In recent years, the Conterno Barolo Francia has often been relatively accessible post bottling, the 2015 is far from that.Vinous Media | 98 VMNext comes 50-hectoliter botte number 88 that houses the upcoming 2015 Barolo Francia. Again, this wine will be bottled by the time you read this, with Conterno's newest vintages hitting the market in October. What impresses most here is the supreme elegance of the wine. It speaks in hushed whispers, enunciating promises of depth, complexity and mysterious intrigue. The wine unfolds slowly, revealing new elements with each swirl of the glass. Together, these aromas build in intensity and stature to become a magnificent Barolo with a capital B. The bouquet exudes elegance and complexity that will carry it through the ages. When I tasted this wine from barrel last year, I described it as demure. One year later, the wine is bursting with confidence, character and moxie.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA rich, plum- and cherry-laced red, aligned with a sumptuous texture, lively acidity and refined tannins. Though dense, this remains light-footed and beautifully integrated. Bass notes of tar, soy, iron and tobacco add depth and complexity as this winds down on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2050. 1,166 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is magical. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from Arione, so the 2015 is 80% Francia and 20% Arione. That marks a return to Monfortino as a multi-vineyard wine, which it mostly was until 1978, when the first Monfortino from Francia was made. The combination of sites works so well. I remember tasting the 2015 as separate components and seeing what exactly the Arione piece adds, and that is aromatic explosiveness, texture and breadth. Rose petal, mint, sage, tobacco and cedar lend complexity. More than anything else, though, I am blown away by how utterly delicious the 2015 is. Of course, the 2015 will be better in time, but its pedigree is plainly evident today. Roberto Conterno gave the 2015 just five years in cask, the shortest time in wood for any Monfortino in recent memory, maybe ever. Like most producers around the world, Conterno is thinking deeply about what the optimal period of time in oak is. As for the 2015, it is a flat-out stunner in every way.Vinous Media | 99 VMMonfortino was not produced in 2016 nor was it made in 2017. The jury is out on whether will see it in 2018 (but I do know that Roberto Conterno is super excited about the 2019 vintage in Barolo, speaking generally). That means that we might not see his flagship wine for a number of years. The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino gives us plenty to contemplate in the meantime. First, in terms of winemaking notes, this vintage see 22% Arione fruit in the blend, with the rest from Francia. Roberto Conterno is fond of telling me that "Francia is a Barolo you drink, and Monfortino is a wine you chew." (The exact word in Italian is "masticare.") I think his comment rings especially true in this vintage that arguably shows greater concentration and fruit weight and softer or more integrated tannins overall. There is structure but minus any hard edges or bite.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RP