Wines with Age

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A sleeper of the vintage, this debut effort under the omnipresent management of Jean-Luc Thunevin boasts a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a sweet, chocolatey, blackberry and currant-scented nose, low acidity, a fat, luscious texture, and a heady finish. It is a hedonistic St.-Emilion fruit bomb to drink over the next 6-8 years.Robert Parker | 88-90 RP

This is very fresh and clean. Full bodied and juicy, with loads of fruit starting with strawberry jam and ending with baskets of fresh fruits. This is exotic and crisp, a truly fabulous 2003 with incredible finesse. Pull the cork on this one after 2014.James Suckling | 96 JSMenthol, tobacco and incense aromas give way to warm plum, blackberry and black cherry compote flavors. Loam and cedar notes ride through the finish, with the supple fruit lingering. Admirably seductive for the vintage.—Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Best from 2020 through 2035. 5,055 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThere have been more complete Cheval Blancs than this, but this 2003 does have power. Huge fruit, huge solid tannins, concentration - maybe some charm would create a better wine.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2003 Cheval Blanc, a blend of 56% Cabernet Franc and 44% Merlot, reveals an exquisite bouquet of mulberries, forest floor, new saddle leather, spice box and spring flowers. The first-growth quality aromatics are followed by a complex medium-bodied wine with more density than anticipated. The wine seems fully mature although there is an unexpected freshness and underlying depth of fruit. This beauty should continue to drink well for another 7-8 years.One of the principal theories of the bizarre, historically hot and dry summer of 2003 is that grapes planted in gravelly and sandy soils were the least successful. If that was true 100% of the time, Cheval Blanc would have made a horrible wine. In fact, both the grand vin and second wine at Cheval Blanc did well in this vintage. It was the earliest harvest in over 110 years at this estate, and the resulting wine is a beauty.Robert Parker | 92 RPGood full, deep red. Sexy aromas of mocha, tobacco and milk chocolate, with a suggestion of roasted nuts. Suave, fine-grained and sappy, with lovely vinosity in the context of this heatwave vintage. Redcurrant and milk chocolate flavors linger impressively on the finish, which shows noteworthy energy and length, with sweet tannins. With its high percentage of 55% cabernet franc, this was very closed at the beginning, notes Berrouet, but is now "more human." But today I don’t find enough complexity to merit an even higher score.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Good medium color, less saturated than the ’95. Pungent, vibrant aromas of sappy berries and resiny oak, with an intriguing floral nuance. At once thick and polished on the palate, with an herbal, peppery complexity. Very long, subtle aftertaste, with some vanillin oak and a slight tannic edge. Not quite as ripe or seamless as the ’95, but a very classy, intensely flavored wine that should put on weight in bottle.Vinous Media | 92 VM

This estate continues to merit substantial praise. Let’s hope in the upcoming revised Classification of the Wines of St.-Emilion, Troplong Mondot merits elevation to Premier Grand Cru Classe, which it has deserved for some time. Not far off the pace of the spectacular 2000, the 2001 is performing even better from bottle than it was from cask. A gorgeous perfume of plum jam, creme de cassis, flowers, licorice, black fruits, a hint of graphite, and well-integrated wood notes is followed by a medium to full-bodied St.-Emilion with superb texture, great flavor purity, and tremendous harmony as well as elegance. Remarkably approachable despite its impressive concentration and well-concealed tannin, this is a beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2017.Robert Parker | 93 RPThe 2001 Troplong Mondot, which is almost entirely Merlot, has a little more amplitude and personality on the nose than the previous vintage, offering a mélange of red and black fruit, blood orange and a sprinkling of white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity. It tightens up in the glass, turning slightly powdery in texture, and delivers dark cherries, sloe and fig with good persistence. Like the 2000, this is quite precocious and forward, but it shows more tension and complexity toward the finish. Still solid after two decades, this should be decanted or left for another 5­–7 years in bottle.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis is a dark and rich red with lovely spice, berry and dark chocolate character. Slightly overextracted, but there is a good core of fruit and silky tannins. Give it time in the bottle. I like it as much as the 2000, though it’s slightly sleeker in style. Best after 2007. 5,415 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Aromas of jam, berry and cherry follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine yet round tannins and a long chocolate and berry aftertaste. Loads of sweet fruit here. Exciting stuff. This small producer makes fine wines. Best after 2008. 1,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSMade in a soft, but not over-ripe style, the deep ruby/plum-tinged 2003 reveals broad, sexy notes of vanilla, black cherry jam, dried herbs, and sweet currants. This fleshy, round, low acid, seductive, luscious effort will provide pleasure over the next decade. Only 1,250 cases were produced, and the 2003 tipped the scales at 13.5% alcohol.Robert Parker | 90 RPGood deep red-ruby. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, violet, minerals, smoke and nutty oak. Fat, broad and opulent but not overly sweet; manages to retain its typical aromatic quality even in this hot year, no doubt partly due to the fact that this wine gets minimal racking. Wonderfully easy to drink already and probably best suited for consuming over the next seven or eight years.Vinous Media | 90 VM

All elegance and fine texture. Beautiful aromas of milk chocolate and ripe berries. Full- to medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a sweet fruit, chocolate aftertaste. Hard to resist now.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2000.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

This opaque, purple-colored 1999 boasts a gorgeous nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with cedar, spice box, coffee, and cassis. It is extremely supple-textured, spicy, with an expansive, savory, full-bodied palate, no hard edges, and a finish that lasts for nearly 35 seconds. This is an amazing wine for the vintage. It will be at its finest between 2003-2018. A brilliant effort!Robert Parker | 94 RPFull ruby-red. Bright, fruit-driven aromas of raspberry, plum and cassis, with a floral nuance. Concentrated, primary and strong in extract; shows impressive texture and depth for the year. Finishes persistent and minerally, with substantial tannins supported by the wine solid middle-palate material. A strong showing.Vinous Media | 90-91 VM

The 2001 Ausone has put on even more weight than I anticipated. The “wine of the vintage,” this inky/purple-colored 2001 boasts a provocative, floral perfume of crushed stones, raspberries, blackberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke. What makes it so sensational are the layers of flavor and nuances that unfold as the wine sits in the glass as well as on the palate. This is an extraordinarily intense effort, but remarkably elegant and well-balanced. It ideally needs another decade of cellaring; it should last for 4-5 decades! Alain Vauthier is a perfectionist, which is evidenced by what he has produced over the last half dozen vintages at Ausone. Kudos to readers lucky enough to find a bottle or two ... and live long enough to enjoy them in their prime.Robert Parker | 98 RPYou have to love the beautiful plum, berry and vanilla character in this wine. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long finish. Very refined and beautiful. Not the 2000, but classic just the same. Best after 2007. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSMedium ruby. Tarry black fruits and minerals on the nose. Began extremely tight and austere, with penetrating black fruit and mineral flavors. With aeration, this showed more flesh and complexity, hinting at blackberry, graphite, espresso and sexy oak. For such a vibrant, juicy, minerally wine, the tannins are extremely fine. This may well merit an even higher score 12 to 15 years down the road.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

Flower and berry character, with hints of clove and black pepper. Full-bodied and very rich, with decadent flavors. Oozes with ripe fruit. Goes on and on. Fabulous.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 96 WSAusone’s extraordinary minerality is present in the 1995, yet there are more aromatics, a richer, more multidimensional palate impression, and a fuller texture - all with the terroir brilliantly expressed. The wine boasts a dense ruby/purple color and an emerging but tightly-knit nose of spring flowers, minerals, earth, and black fruits. Rich, with an opulent texture and surprising sexiness for a young vintage of Ausone, the medium-bodied 1995 displays exquisite balance between its acid, tannin, alcohol, and fruit. Although it is not yet seamless, all the elements are present for an extraordinary evolution in the bottle. This wine will age at a glacial pace for 30-40 years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2045. Last tasted, 3/01.Robert Parker | 93 RPDeep violet-tinged ruby. Lively cassis, black cherry, tobacco and smoky oak aromas. Lush and dense, though a bit shocked by the bottling. Combines the penetrating, juicy quality and class of previous vintages of this wine with the more opulent texture and suaver tannins craved by so many of today Bordeaux lovers. May well eventually merit a higher score, but will it surpass the ’96?Vinous Media | 92+ VM

This 15+ acre estate, situated on a south/southwest-facing slope, has been making sensational wines since 2000, when the management of the vineyard and winemaking were taken over by Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt. The 40-year-old, bio-dynamically farmed vineyard is planted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The 2003 possesses superb ripeness as well as a stony, mineral liqueur-like intensity, a reticent but promising perfume of black raspberries, sweet kirsch, and blacker fruits, a full-bodied, powerful, concentrated attack and mid-palate, and a blockbuster, long, powerful, moderately tannic finish. It is an infant in terms of development. No doubt this site’s clay and limestone soils were the perfect antidote for the summer’s torrid heat and drought. This superb effort should only be purchased by patient connoisseurs. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025+Robert Parker | 93 RPPlenty of berry and cherry character with chocolate and vanilla. Medium-bodied, with soft and balanced tannins. Lovely balance. This is right next to Angélus and Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse. A small property with about 15 acres. Best after 2008. 1,625 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Good full ruby-red. Knockout, complex nose offers vibrant aromas of raspberry, sour red cherry, strawberry, licorice and violet, complicated by white pepper and rose. Then moderately dense and fresh in the mouth, with delicately spicy notes of redcurrant, strawberry, licorice, coffee and minerals. This rather elegantly styled wine finishes bright and fresh, with firm, highly polished tannins. This midweight Cheval Blanc lacks the density and concentration of the better vintages, but it has an amazingly pure nose of cabernet franc (I'd score this 95 or more for its aromas) that is a joy to inhale. For those with deep pockets, it's also a fantastic food wine, and a simply amazing buy, since it will cost much less than many other more sought-after Cheval Blanc vintages.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Fantastic aromas of black licorice and sweet tobacco change to raspberries and follow through to a full-bodied palate, with lovely silky tannins and a long, caressing finish. Multilayered. A beauty. Best after 2008. 3,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSSmoky, earthy, sweet red and black currant, fig, and menthol notes jump from the glass of this dark ruby/plum-hued, medium-weight Cheval Blanc. Possessing sweet tannin, medium body, and undeniable elegance as well as nobility, this beautifully made effort appears slightly superior (at least to my taste) to the more hyped 2003. Interestingly, yields were 27 hectoliters per hectare in 2002, and 30-31 hectoliters per hectare in 2003. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.Robert Parker | 90 RP

(Château Ausone) The 1985 vintage of Château Ausone was not particularly touted when it was released, but this is a great wine that should ultimately prove to be one of the greatest Ausones of the decade of the 1980s. The bouquet is deep, pure and youthfully exotic, as it soars from the glass in a very vibrant blend of baked cherries, blood orange, menthol, woodsmoke, glorious soil tones, a touch of dill and a potpourri of other more classic fresh herb tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very intensely flavored, with a sappy core of fruit, great soil inflection, ripe, well-integrated tannins and superb length and grip on the tangy finish. A classic Ausone in the making, I would not touch the ’85 for another decade, despite the fact that it is already quite accessible. There are just too many layers of complexity still to unfold here to be opening bottles right now! (Drink between 2020-2070).John Gilman | 94 JGPure fruit aromas of raspberry and strawberry; full-bodied with fine tannins.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

A terrific sleeper value, Stephan von Neipperg’s 2001 Clos de l’Oratoire boasts a deep blue/purple color as well as a rich nose of melted licorice, espresso roast, black currants, minerals, smoke, and earth. This opulent, medium-bodied St.-Emilion exhibits abundant quantities of fruit and glycerin along with a fleshy, ripe, expansive finish with no hard edges. Some tannin lurks beneath the surface, but this is a beautiful wine to drink now and over the next 10-12 years.Robert Parker | 90 RP

Good deep ruby. Complex, sauvage aromas of black raspberry, smoked meat and leather. Soft, sweet and expressive; shows a considerably stronger animal aspect than either Canon La Gaffeliere or Mondotte, Stephan von Neipperg other St. Emilion wines. Quite suave and fresh for the year. Finishes long and ripely tannic. Half of this wine was fermented in wood cuves, which von Neipperg feels has resulted in a more successful integration of the tannins.Vinous Media | 89-90 VM

(Château Ausone) The 1990 vintage of Château Ausone is a stunning wine. There is a purity and soil signature front and center here that is not always evident in wines from this torrid vintage on the Gironde, and Ausone’s signature elegance is now very much this wine’s calling card. The beautiful bouquet wafts from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, nutskin, cigar wrapper, chalky soil tones, a touch of blood orange and a lovely, floral topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and deep at the core, with superb transparency and grip, modest tannins and a very long, complex and vibrant finish. At age twenty-nine, the 1990 Ausone is just starting to blossom and drink with generosity and refinement, but the more exotic topnotes here have not yet fully emerged and there is even more magic to come for those who can defer gratification for another ten years! (Drink between 2019-2060)John Gilman | 96 JGChewy, monolithic wine. Aromas of dried herbs and berries. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a tar, tobacco aftertaste. Puckers your mouth with tannins. Will improve with age.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2005. 2,150 cases made. —Wine Spectator | 92 WSAfter revealing some amber at the edge as well as copious aromas of fruitcake, crushed rocks, incense, and a weedy character, the 1990 Ausone offers up sweet, jammy fruit notes as well as a firm finish with the tell-tale crushed rock minerality that this estate often achieves. The aromatics suggest a fully mature wine, but in the mouth, the firm structure and density indicate this effort needs more time. This wine gives off mixed signals, and I suspect it will last much longer than it appears, but only time will tell. There is a lot to like here, but the 1990 is not one of the most profound Ausones, such as those made since 1998. Owners should try a bottle and make up their own minds, but I think it has another 10- to 15-year window of maximum pleasure.Robert Parker | 91 RPThe 1990 Ausone is a vintage that I have tasted half a dozen times, waxing lyrical when I first tasted it way back in 2000, but then my sentiments cooling off with each encounter. It has an exotic bouquet that articulates the growing season more than the terroir – camphor and eucalyptus, quite heady and showy (some might say vulgar but that would be too pejorative.) There is a smear of chocolate on the entry, moderate acidity, fleshy and ripe but missing the complexity of its peers, espresso and dried blood tincturing the fruit on the finish. It is a pleasurable Saint-Émilion rather than a great Ausone. Tasted at the Ausone vertical in London.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2001 Canon-la-Gaffelière has a fresh nose of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, cigar humidor, fireside hearth and light minty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity, fresh and vibrant, and harmonious toward the finish, offering finer tannins than the 2000. This has aged beautifully and will continue to give pleasure. Cropped at 21hl/ha and aged in 85% new oak for 18 months.Vinous Media | 93 VMSilky and charming, with perfumed juniper and tobacco details weaving around gently mulled cassis and black cherry flavors. The tobacco element blossoms through the finish, where some secondary notes emerge, but overall this stays very fresh.—Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2025. 4,275 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMade in a structured, tannic, restrained style (representative of the vintage’s overall personality), this medium to full-bodied 2001 exhibits scents of espresso roast, cedar, chocolate, black currants, and cherries. With sweet but noticeable tannin, exceptional multilayered flavors, and excellent texture, elegance as well as purity, it will be at its finest between 2005-2013.Robert Parker | 92 RP

Rich and full, this modern-styled, beautifully made, majestic, rich, multidimensional St.-Emilion boasts a dark plum/purple color. All the oak has been absorbed, but, surprisingly, there is not a lot of difference between this wine and the regular cuvee of Fombrauge. Nevertheless, this is fuller and richer with plenty of life remaining. Enjoy it over the next decade.Robert Parker | 93 RPAromas of blackberry, chocolate and flowers follow through to a full-bodied palate, with very soft tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. Delicious already. Napa in St.-Emilion. Best after 2007. 415 cases made. Wine Spectator | 92 WS

I’ve always had a soft spot for the 1981 vintage as well as these two châteaux. This was the first vintage of Bordeaux that I bought, back in 1984, with some knowledge of the region (or so I thought at the time) and Cos because the first serious vertical that I ever attended was of their wines from 1982 back to 1952. Pavie? Well, to be honest, it was the label that drew me in at first, being all old-timey Bordeaux and all. The first Pavie that I bought was a 1979 from a wine shop in Boston and from the get-go I was hooked on the blend of power and finesse that a St.-Emilion from a great terroir can exhibit. Being able to visit both of these estates in late June of 1989, on the same broiling hot day, sealed the deal.Ninteen eight-one is what some would derisively call a ‘classic’ or ‘restaurant’ vintage. In the old days some would say ‘a useful vintage’ for the fact that the wines are mostly to be drunk while waiting for “great” vintages to mature or to keep ones’ hands off of already mature ‘great’ vintages resting in the cellar. That belittles wines such as these two, I think, because more times than not I crave a graceful, finely delineated and less dramatic wine than one from a blockbuster vintage. Both of these bottles deliver the goods.Purchased by a good friend on release here in New York, both the Cos and the Pavie are decidedly at peak but based on these bottles there’s no need to fear the reaper. The Cos is a textbook rendition of the old style at the châteaux, with intense cigar box, dried cherry, licorice and pipe tobacco character and smooth, harmonious tannins that have all but faded away. As might be expected, the Pavie is more dramatic in character, but still showing the restraint that’s been typical of the ‘81s since release, offering a haunting, floral- and spice-dominated bouquet and plush, seamless plum and cherry flavors. Like the Cos, it’s fully mature but there’s no sign of undue fatigue, either. In both cases, pretty remarkable for 34 year-old wines from a vintage that’s now been mostly forgotten, but not by me.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Even better, the 2001 Château Barde-Haut offers a full-bodied, beautifully textured style on the palate as well as incredibly complex notes of blackcurrants, chocolate, tobacco, and Asian spices. With resolved tannins, a great mid-palate, and a concentrated, rich, powerful style, it’s another 2001 that’s drinking brilliantly today. As with the 2000, it’s drinking at point yet is going to evolve nicely over the coming decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2001 Barde Haut has an open-knit nose of black plum and crushed strawberry; subtle, almost gamy aromas develop in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a pliant texture and fine acidity, fleshier than some Right Bank wines but nicely balanced. While not a complex Saint-Émilion, it has bags of charm and feels carefree and malleable. A 20-year-old that is now à point.Vinous Media | 90 VMBeautiful red with soft, silky tannins and delicious berry, cherry, vanilla and light tobacco character. Full-bodied, with a caressing texture and a long finish. I like this better than the 2000. Best after 2006. 3,080 cases made. —Wine Spectator | 90 WS