Wines with Age

wines

The 1990 Le Pergole Torte is deep, powerful and rich through the middle, but is also beginning to show the first signs of oxidation. The ripeness of the vintage comes through clearly in the wine’s forward personality. In 1990, Montevertine bottled their best 50HL cask separately as a Riserva. While that wine is epic, one can only wonder how much that decision may have affected the quality of the remaining juice. At the same time, this double magnum does not appear to be in the very best shape. My impression is that the 1990 is a better wine than this tasting suggests.Vinous Media | 93 VMStill all in fruit and structure. Dark ruby in color, with bright raspberry and earth aromas. Full- to medium-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, caressing finish.--Montevertine vertical. Drink now through 2005. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe celebrated 1990 vintage was harvested by 15 October, with yields slightly higher than average yet perfectly ripe. The wine possesses a slightly cloudy appearance and some mushroomy aromas, perhaps derived from an imperfect bottle. However, the meaty nose sweetens in the glass to a floral bouquet with dark cherry, liquorice and white truffle notes. It’s full-bodied on the palate, with a velvety framework of tannins sustained by fresh acidity.Decanter | 93 DEC

I have been extolling the virtues of this wine, produced in partnership with the owner Silvia Imparato and consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella, for nearly a decade. I love its individualistic style. Each year, regardless of vintage conditions, it offers up compelling amounts of blueberry, blackberry, and black raspberry fruit presented in a distinctive, medium to full-bodied, fruit-driven, complex personality. It also exhibits a touch of minerals, marvelous purity and symmetry, as well as the potential for 10-20 years of evolution.The 1998 is an outstanding success, with elegance allied to power and intensity. Montevetrano’s hallmark blackberry and black raspberry component is present as well as beautiful purity/symmetry, and a long, medium to full-bodied, highly-concentrated finish. Sadly, production is a mere 2,000 bottles from a 4-acre vineyard planted in 1991 with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Aglianico. Like most of the wines made under the supervision of Riccardo Cotarella, it is aged in new French oak, and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. The 1998 should drink well for 10-15 years.Robert Parker | 92 RPThe 1998 is another excellent vintage for drinking today. Although this isn’t the most complex Montevetrano I am struck by how primary the wine is. The 1998 is open in its dark fruit with a soft, accessible personality that is similar to the 2000. Sweet, silky tannins round out the long finish. Readers who prefer layers of tertiary complexity will want to cellar the 1998 for a few more years, but from a textural standpoint, it is a highly rewarding wine today.Antonio Galloni | 92 AGDark ruby in color, with aromas of currants, berries and tar. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, berry, vanilla aftertaste. Needs time to come together. Another gorgeous red from Montevetrano, though not as great as the ’97. Best after 2002. 1,100 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Bold and structured red. Dark color; black licorice, raspberry and mineral character and hints of dried flowers; full-bodied, with spicy fruit and undertones of black pepper. Chewy finish. This is fantastic. Best after 2007. 5,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2001 Serpico is another wine that appears to need more bottle age. Today it is in an in-between stage where the fruit is no longer primary but the tertiary notes aren’t fully developed either. The 2001 is a powerful Serpico with impressive tannic clout that will require further cellaring to soften. With time, hints of wild cherries, herbs, chocolate and leather emerge but only with great reluctance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.Feudi di San Gregorio is one the leading estates in Campania and Italy. Enzo Ercolino spared no expenses in snapping up vineyards and building a state of the art facility that cranks out more than 4 million bottles per year. Along the way Feudi garnered considerable accolades from the press, perhaps too much attention for a winery that was just getting started. Today Feudi is owned and run by the Capaldo family. The estate makes a wide range of whites and reds, but the most consistently outstanding wines are the two Aglianicos; Serpico and the Taurasi Piano di Montevergine. From the outset Serpico was conceived as a more approachable interpretation of Aglianico than Taurasi. The softness of some early vintages suggests other grapes may have been used to help smooth the trademark Aglianico rusticity. The Taurasi di Montevergine was initially made from a number of different parcels although today it is a true single-vineyard wine made from a late-ripening plot that sits at 700 meters above sea level. Over the years, this site has proven to be exceptional in yielding structured Taurasis that at their best capture the full breadth of Aglianico. Consulting oenologist Luigi Moio, who had just returned from a stint in France, made the wines from 1995 through 1998, although he did not see all the wines through to their bottling as he left Feudi in 1999. Moio is one of the key figures in the development of the wines of the south. His consulting projects include Caggiano and Cantina del Notaio, in addition to the superb wines he is making at his own estate, Quintodecimo. At Feudi Moio favored lengthy fermentations often reaching more than 25 days (Moio has since adopted a shorter approach to fermentations with his own wines at Quintodecimo). Malolactic fermentation was done in steel. Moio used 100% new oak for Serpico and 60% new oak for the Piano di Montevergine. Oenologist Riccardo Cotarella made the wines between 1999 and 2006. Cotarella is another seminal figure in Campania, as he pioneered Montevetrano and Terra di Lavoro - two wines that were groundbreaking when they were conceived and that continue to set a high bar for the region - as well as Feudi’s 100% luxury Merlot cuvee, Patrimo. Cotarella preferred shortish macerations. After the alcoholic fermentation was completed, the wines were racked into oak until spring, when they were moved into steel for the malolactic fermentations. The wines were then moved back into oak, where they completed their aging. Cotarella favored 100% new oak for both Serpico and Piano di Montevergine. Since 2006 Feudi has moved most of its winemaking in house and relied less on outside consultants.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPThe 2001 Serpico is another wine that appears to need more bottle age. Today it is in an in-between stage where the fruit is no longer primary but the tertiary notes aren’t fully developed either. The 2001 is a powerful Serpico with impressive tannic clout that will require further cellaring to soften. With time, hints of wild cherries, herbs, chocolate and leather emerge but only with great reluctance.Antonio Galloni | 92+ AG

The 2001 Barolo Cascina Francia has entered a period of extreme stubbornness, which has been my experience the several times I have tasted the wine recently. The sweet, candied notes that were once present in the bouquet have developed into a much more classic melange of roses, tar, licorice and red berries. The 2001 boasts tremendous structure, while some of the overt raciness that was present when the wine was young has dissipated. One of the bottles I tasted, from my cellar, only began to show some expressiveness after it had been opened for two days! The 2001 Cascina Francia is neither young nor mature, rather it is in an adolescent stage where the best option is to leave the bottles alone for at least a few more years. On a side note, a recent bottle of the 1997 was breathtaking. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2031.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2001 Barolo Cascina Francia has entered a period of extreme stubbornness, which has been my experience the several times I have tasted the wine recently. The sweet, candied notes that were once present in the bouquet have developed into a much more classic mélange of roses, tar, licorice and red berries. The 2001 boasts tremendous structure, while some of the overt raciness that was present when the wine was young has dissipated. One of the bottles I tasted, from my cellar, only began to show some expressiveness after it had been opened for two days! The 2001 Cascina Francia is neither young nor mature, rather it is in an adolescent stage where the best option is to leave the bottles alone for at least a few more years. On a side note, a recent bottle of the 1997 was breathtaking.Vinous Media | 94+ VMIt is crystal clear that the 2001 is destined to be a great vintage for the Conterno estate, but what is not yet certain is whether this, or the 1999 vintage will ultimately end up superior. At our San Francisco tasting we had a flight of both 2001 bottling alongside their 1999 counterparts, and it will be a very close race between these two vintages for the next five decades. The 2001 Cascina Francia is a brilliant bottle in the making, as it offers up a pure and youthfully reserved mélange of cherries, tar, vinesmoke, a bit of cherry stone, fresh herbs, soil and a touch of orange rind in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and quite tight, with plenty of ripe, well-integrated tannins, fine acids, impeccable balance and excellent length and grip on the finish. A superb bottle in the making that is very shut down today, and consequently, I may be underrating it a bit. (Drink between 2020 - 2060)John Gilman | 93+ JGHas wonderful aromas of fresh porcini mushroom, subtle ripe red fruits and citrus. Full-bodied, with silky, caressing tannins. Shows lots of berry, blackberry and milk chocolate flavors on the aftertaste. This is just starting to open up. Drink now through 2016. 1,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2004 Cannubi is the oldest vintage I have yet tasted from this bottling at G. B. Burlotto (though I have every intention of rectifying this situation as soon as I cross paths with an older vintage or two of this great wine!) and the wine is a superb example of this outstanding vintage. The deep and vibrant nose soars from the glass in a constellation of red and black cherries, incipient notes of gamebird, bitter chocolate, camphor, a touch of fresh almond, cherry skin and a beautifully complex base of soil. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with outstanding balance, a superb core of pure fruit, ripe tannins and superb length and grip on the young and perfectly balanced finish. This will be a great bottle of Cannubi in the fullness of time! (Drink between 2018 - 2050)John Gilman | 93+ JG

The 2007 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi emerges from the glass with layers of sweet red fruit supported by the silkiest of tannins. Sweet floral and spiced notes follow, adding further complexity. The Cannubi captures the essence of the generous vintage in this site, in an expressive, open style that shows beautifully. The warm growing season gave the wine a little more mid-palate stuffing, not a bad thing for this very classic producer. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2007 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi emerges from the glass with layers of sweet red fruit supported by the silkiest of tannins. Sweet floral and spiced notes follow, adding further complexity. The Vigneto Cannubi captures the essence of the generous vintage in this site, in an expressive, open style that shows beautifully. The warm growing season gave the wine a little more mid-palate stuffing, not a bad thing for this very classic producer.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2007 Cannubi bottling from Fabio Alessandria is not quite as transparent as the Monvigliero in this vintage, but it too shares lovely elegance on both the nose and palate. The fine bouquet is also probably a touch deeper, wafting from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, a touch of anise, gentle tarry notes, a beautifully complex base of soil, woodsmoke and fresh oregano in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off lovely mid-palate depth, with ripe, fairly firm tannins, lovely focus and grip and a very long, well-balanced and youthful finish. (Drink between 2020 - 2050)John Gilman | 93 JG

The 2010 Barolo Cannubi is dense and compact at this stage, but then the sweet Cannubi tannins kick in. Sweet red berries, crushed flowers, mint and sweet spices wrap around the palate in a generous, textured wine endowed with tons of depth and class. This is a fairly powerful rendering of Cannubi. It will be interesting to see if the wine acquires finesse in bottle, or if it will always be a bit of a brute.Vinous Media | 94 VMRose, tilled earth, and smoky mineral aromas emerge from this luminous, elegant Barolo. The bright palate doles out crushed red cherry and black raspberry accented with herbs, white pepper and clove. The juicy flavors are balanced by vibrant energy and polished tannins. Drink 2018-2038. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOIt reveals aromas of rose, tilled earth, and smoky mineral. The bright palate doles out crushed red cherry and black raspberry accented with herbs, white pepper and clove. Juicy flavors are balanced by vibrant energy and polished tannins. Drink 2018–2038. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEWith fruit from the Barolo township, the 2010 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi offers a classic portrait of the Nebbiolo grape with bright berry notes backed by savory tones of balsam herb, dried sage and mint. There-s a distant touch of exotic spice as well, maybe cumin or curry, that adds a somewhat unexpected extra layer of complexity to the wine-s already busy personality. Its overall elegance is already evident at this young stage in its evolution. Drink: 2016-2028.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPPure and fruity on the nose with sliced-strawberry and floral character. Full to medium body with pretty fruit, firm tannins and a fresh acidity. Lots of tar at the finish. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 91 JS

Rose petal and ripe fruits on the nose. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a citrus undertone. Lemon rind texture. Juicy and delicious. Give it a year or two to soften. 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc, aged 15 months in French barrels.James Suckling | 90 JS

The 2011 Barolo Villero exhibits a full body and thick concentration. Ultimately, this is one of my favorite wines from Brovia in this vintage. I love the muscle and heft that the wine shows, and the fact it delivers that power with the utmost elegance. Nothing is heavy or overdone here. You really get a sense of the quality of fruit achieved in the Villero vineyard. The wine shows integrated tannins and impeccable dark fruit balance.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RPThe 2011 Barolo Villero is one of the most structured wines in the range. Here the firm tannins and ample frame both suggest the 2011 will drink well for many years, once the tannins start softening. Orange peel, wild flowers, red stone fruits and spices flesh out on the creamy finish. It’s always interesting to taste the Villero next to the Rocche, as the two sites are pretty close to the other, yet the wines are remarkably different. Here the heat of the year is quite evident, while the Rocche benefits from greater ventilation and therefore a bit more freshness.Vinous Media | 93 VMAttractive berry and fresh herb character with hints of rose petals. Full-bodied, tight and chewy. Needs three to four years to soften.James Suckling | 92 JSAromas of wild berry, underbrush, and a whiff of camphor emerge in the glass. The palate delivers tart cherry, red raspberry, clove, anise and ground pepper alongside youthfully assertive but refined tannins and fresh acidity. Kerin O’Keefe | 91 KOAromas of wild berry, underbrush and a whiff of camphor emerge in the glass. The palate delivers tart cherry, red raspberry, clove, anise and ground pepper alongside youthfully assertive but refined tannins and fresh acidity. Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEAnother terrific wine from this sunny, hot vintage, the 2011 Barolo Villero offers a similar medium ruby color as well as notes of caramelized cherries, dried herbs, toasted spice, and serious amounts of minerality. It too is beautifully balanced and layered. This is a terrific Barolo to drink over the coming 15-20 years as well.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

Very perfumed with black currant and cassis bush character. Medium to full body, fine and chewy tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Still a little tight but fun to taste now. Better in 2018.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2012 Sammarco is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot. Like with the d’Alceo, this hot vintage does not deliver the same soaring intensity and complexity as seen in past years. It shows added softness and succulence instead. The bouquet is driven by sweet fruit and dried berry aromas that underline the warm vintage. Allspice, clove and more sweet fruit appear on the close.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPFragrant purple flower, ripe black-skinned fruit and dark spice aromas slowly emerge on this savory blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese. Full bodied and succulent, the smooth structured palate delivers crushed raspberry, black currant, star anise and chopped mint alongside a backbone of firm polished tannins. Drink 2018–2024.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WECastello dei Rampolla’s Sammarco comes across as unusually medium in body in 2012, with a distinctly red-toned flavor profile. I have seen other lighter vintages blossom with time in bottle. That may very well be the case here as well. Readers should expect a floral, bright Sammarco built on mid-weight structure and finesse rather than power.Vinous Media | 92+ VMA light and supple, yet firm, red, offering strawberry, cherry and leafy flavors. Fresh and juicy, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, herbs and earth. Drink now through 2023. 1,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Fresh grapes only. It’s hard to believe this is their first vintage from rented vines high up at San Giorgio. Magnificent aromas of woodsmoke, aniseed, clove and black pepper and intense, juicy red fruit flavours. Drinking Window 2019 - 2027.Decanter | 94 DEC

Moderately saturated bright red. Herbs, red fruit and minerals on the refined nose. Then also quite elegant in the mouth, where floral nuances lift the red and blue fruit flavors. Finishes long with herbal notes that add complexity.Vinous Media | 92 VMSubtle and flavorful with spice, white-pepper and dark-berry aromas and flavors. Medium to full body. Firm tannins. Polished and delicious. Why wait? Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS