Wines with Age

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The 1990 Le Pergole Torte is deep, powerful and rich through the middle, but is also beginning to show the first signs of oxidation. The ripeness of the vintage comes through clearly in the wine’s forward personality. In 1990, Montevertine bottled their best 50HL cask separately as a Riserva. While that wine is epic, one can only wonder how much that decision may have affected the quality of the remaining juice. At the same time, this double magnum does not appear to be in the very best shape. My impression is that the 1990 is a better wine than this tasting suggests.Vinous Media | 93 VMStill all in fruit and structure. Dark ruby in color, with bright raspberry and earth aromas. Full- to medium-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, caressing finish.--Montevertine vertical. Drink now through 2005. 900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe celebrated 1990 vintage was harvested by 15 October, with yields slightly higher than average yet perfectly ripe. The wine possesses a slightly cloudy appearance and some mushroomy aromas, perhaps derived from an imperfect bottle. However, the meaty nose sweetens in the glass to a floral bouquet with dark cherry, liquorice and white truffle notes. It’s full-bodied on the palate, with a velvety framework of tannins sustained by fresh acidity.Decanter | 93 DEC

The 1996 Le Pergole Torte, from a cold, late-ripening vintage, is powerful and explosive, with a compelling interplay of ripeness, sweetness and structure. Cherry jam, wild flowers, mint, sweet spices, menthol and licorice meld together in the glass, while lavender, rose petal, quinine and a host of aromatic notes come alive on the finish. Although striking today, the 1996 will drink well for another 10-15 years, perhaps longer. Today, it is truly special. In 1996, the harvest began on October 21, exceedingly late, even for Montevertine.Vinous Media | 95 VMI started off loving the 1996 Le Pergole Torte, but I ended my evaluation on a less enthusiastic note. The bouquet opens slowly with dark fruit tones and spicy notes of cinnamon and clove. Dusty mineral tones also appear as subtle accents with licorice and balsam herb. Its aromatic presentation is less yielding and fluid overall. The wine offers complexity and depth, but in a more monolithic and one-directional manner. There is little polarity here. The wine ends on a sweetly pungent note with candied fruit, canned peach and honey. It finishes on a heavy note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA seductive red, with subtle aromas yet a powerful structure. Medium-bodied, with berry, tea, tobacco and cigar box on the nose and a medium finish. Slightly mouthpuckering from the dense, silky tannins. Needs bottle age. Best after 2000. 1,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

What a bottle. Off the charts! Full and velvety with spice and berry character and dark chocolate. Bright citrus acidity underneath. Intense. Wild fruit.James Suckling | 97 JSRich aromas of blackberry and raspberry jam, with hints of licorice. Full-bodied, with soft, round tannins and a clean, fresh finish. Balanced and refined. Perfect now, but will improve.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Drink now through 2014. 3,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 1997 Sammarco is starting to show the early signs of oxidation in its bouquet, which suggests it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. There is plenty of depth, but probably also limited potential from here on out. Like the 1998, the 1997 is giving all it has right now, and will continue to hold based on its huge core of fruit, but I wouldn’t push my luck too far.Antonio Galloni | 93 AG

Dense garnet in colour, this vintage of Masseto is restrained with a lavish elegance on the nose, displaying mint, milk, wild fennel (typical along the roads in Bolgheri), leather and white truffle. It is vibrant and mineral on the big palate, creamy at first then velvety on the mid-palate and super-ripe on the finish, woven with refreshing acidity and cassis meatiness. One of the greatest Masseto ever, and one of the best wines produced in Bolgheri (alongside Ornellaia 1998 and Sassicaia 1985). Simply, perfect! Drinking Window 2021 - 2041.Decanter | 100 DECThis is clearly a perfect wine and just now starting to open and show you its sheer beauty. It's balanced with fascinating rosemary and dark fruit character that turns to plums and light chocolate. The undertones on the nose remind me of walking through the Masseto vineyard during a cool summer's morning. It finally softens at the finish and shows a stunning fruit and acid tension. Finally softening and showing it true greatness. Decant four hours before.James Suckling | 100 JSEven better than the highly acclaimed 2001 vintage, this Merlot from a tiny, clay soil vineyard in Bolgheri is just about everything you've ever dreamed of tasting. Gorgeous, generous, voluptuous, cheerful, succulent and intense: Masseto is all those things. The aromas are seamless and capture the essence of chocolate fudge, sweet cherry, blackberry, spice and vanilla. It boasts thick, dense extraction, excellent structure and amazing persistence.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEOffers a terrific bouquet of ripe, mellowing cherry and berry, accented by leather and incense hints. Shows fine tension between the firm, vibrant structure and ripe fruit, with grace notes of Mediterranean herbs, cigar box and mineral. Velvety and long, with a fabulous, fresh aftertaste. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2038. 2,670 cases made, 520 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 99 WSThe 2001 Masseto is one of the all-time great wines here. Vertical and soaring in its intensity, the 2001 occupies all dimensions, especially texturally, where it is so rich, so heady and so compelling. Next to other wines, or other vintages, the 2001 just has more of everything. I imagine well-stored bottles will drink well for another 15-20 years. The 2001’s reputation as an iconic wine is clearly justified. This magical vintage was marked by cooling temperatures in September that resulted in a drawn out harvest that took four weeks to complete. Note: The bottle in the Nashville tasting was not perfect, so this note corresponds to a more recent and more representative example. I have seen more bottle variation with the 2001 than other vintages.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThe massive 2001 Masseto forms with Le Macchiole’s Messorio and Tua Rita’s Redigaffi a trio of world class Merlots in a ten square mile area where the variety virtually did not exist 15 years ago. The volume, richness, and sumptuousness are almost beyond description, as are the length and density of the flow and finish, but there is an underlying vein of purity and freshness which help maintain an impeccable balance. Drink: 2006-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

The 2004 Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista impresses for its length and gorgeous inner perfume. This understated wine shows the finessed side of Bellavista. Sweet red fruit, flowers, mint and spices wrap around the silky, eternal finish. The 2004 is all about class and personality, both of which it has in spades. The only weak spot for the 2004 is the naturally high yields of the vintage. Still, it seems quite clear the 2004 has a bright future ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP(80% sangiovese and 20% malvasia nera; 4.9 g/l total acidity; 3.59 pH; 30.3 g/l dry extract; 13% alcohol; spent 14 months in 40% new oak): Good bright red. Very ripe black cherry complicated by minerals, dark chocolate and spices on the nose; I wanted a bit more freshness. Supple on entry, then richer but less refined than the 2006 in the middle, with a chocolatey ripeness to the creamy black and red fruit flavors. There’s a delicacy to the mid-palate but the finish features substantial ripe tannins that will require patience. A very big, almost fat style of Chianti from Ama: as good as this wine is, I find the 2004 Bellavista to be a little too ripe and chunky for my taste. Hopefully, time in the cellar will help this Bellavista develop more finesse and style. Should be at its best between 2016 and 2024.Vinous Media | 92+ VMImpressive, with lots of blackberry and dark chocolate character and hints of coffee. Full-bodied, with silky and refined tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Best after 2008. 400 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This is a Masseto that is its own now with balance and harmony. It shows delicate chocolate and berry character with hints of hazelnut. Medium to full body. Long silky finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSTasted next to the 2002, the 2005 Masseto is perhaps a bit edgier, with an extra kick of tannic intensity that gives the wine its sense of direction and a good kick of energy too. I very much admire the tension in the 2005, a wine built on freshness, aromatic depth and mid-weight structure. Cool, rainy weather towards the end of the season resulted in a late harvest that took place between September 14 and 30.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGFruit was picked later than normal and the Masseto Merlot does indeed show mature aromas of black cherry, ripe blackberry, earthy iron and polished stone. The intensity and purity are amazing and the wine is sophisticated, soft and very rich on the finish. It is already showing beautiful evolution in the glass.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2005 Masseto (Merlot) is simply gorgeous. A wine of extraordinary class and personality, it remains very primary in its dark fruit, licorice, cassis and toasted oak. It offers notable concentration and well-integrated tannins, all of which convey an impression of awesome harmony, finesse and balance. The tricky growing season seems to have been less of an issue for the Merlot, particularly in the old-vine Masseto Centrale vineyard. The 2005 Masseto has been superb every time I have tasted it thus far. As is often the case, the wine requires at least a few years of bottle age before it becomes approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAn exotic bouquet reveals floral, spice, cherry compote and truffle elements. A Masseto that’s all about elegance, with a silky texture, wild berry fruit, firm tannins and bright acidity. This still has some tannins to give, but is delicious now. Fine length. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2033. 2,660 cases made, 550 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

A wine with superb finesse and depth. So subtle and understated yet powerful and long. The tannin intensity is amazing. It just builds like a massive wave. Superb. Give this time in the bottle. The length is endless. Better in 2018.James Suckling | 100 JSSumptuous, offering ripe aromas of plum, cherry, spice, earth, iron and tobacco. Velvety in texture and elegant, this nonetheless has an ironclad structure underneath. Firm and long, fresh, echoing tobacco and mineral. Seductive, yet reserved too.—Non-blind Valdicava Brunello vertical (July 2017). Best from 2023 through 2043. 3,900 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSHere is a big wine with lofty ambitions and an impactful presentation. The Valdicava 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano hits all the right buttons. The wine shows a profound sense of elegance and poise with subtle berry notes that blend into spice, licorice and tar. Those bright and lively aromatic components fold gracefully within the wine's tight texture, its sheer power and the silky nature of the tannins. This wine promises a long and steady aging future ahead.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a classic Valdicava wine built on power, intensity and depth. Black cherry, smoke, licorice, dark spices and menthol make a strong first impression, followed by huge waves of tannin and acidity that will require at least a few years to settle down. In a part of Montalcino that is known for finesse, the Madonna del Piano is decidedly powerful, concentrated and extracted. Readers will want to give the 2010 a good bit of air, as the Madonna del Piano needs quite a bit of time to open up.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2012 Redigaffi jumps from the glass with explosive dark blue/blackish fruit. Rich, voluptuous and impeccably textured in the glass, the 2012 boasts massive depth and concentration, yet retains tons of freshness. Silky tannins round out a finish laced with melted road tar, herbs and leather. For such a big wine, the Redigaffi is remarkably complex and nuanced. The 2012 was aged in 100% new, thick-staved Darnajou barrels, which are seldom seen in Italy but widely used throughout Napa Valley and elsewhere. In some recent vintages I have slightly preferred the Syrah over the Redigaffi, but in 2012 the wines are both fabulous. Simply put, the 2012 Redigaffi is a stunner.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGTen years on the Redigaffi shows it’s vibrancy with lifted aromas of savoury spice, violet and fennel. The palate is still bright yet rich with exquisite fine tannin wrapped around a core of black fruit and savoury notes of thyme and anise along with hints of stone and deep espresso.Decanter | 96 DECThis has a seductively spicy nose of anise, pink peppercorns, wild berries, mulberries, mocha and violets. Full-bodied, rich and mouth-filling, yet with wonderful freshness. Chewy tannins. Vibrant finish. 100% merlot. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThis vintage was entirely made by Luca D’Attoma. The Tua Rita 2012 Redigaffi is another milestone vintage that opens a new chapter in the timeline of this iconic winery in Suvereto on the Tuscan Coast. Luca’s footprint is evident as those more obvious oak tones suddenly disappear, giving space to black fruit, dried plum and syrupy blackcurrant. The wine shows an inky dark color nonetheless, and although its texture is generous and elegant, Redigaffi is suddenly void of those more obvious toasted oak influences. As a result, you gain a bigger window on some of the territorial aromas of Mediterranean herb and dried berry that we will find again in the vintages to follow.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPOne of Italy’s most acclaimed Merlots, this concentrated wine opens with scents of black currants, cedar, sage and espresso. The firmly structured but polished palate delivers dried black cherry, black pepper, coffee and licorice alongside a backbone of velvety tannins. Drink 2017–2022.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Dark, powerful and explosive, D'Alceo is one of the epic wines of 2015. Crème de cassis, plum, graphite, sage, lavender, and menthol rush out of the glass in a deep, beautifully resonant wine loaded with class. A wine with striking inner sweetness, depth and structure, the 2015 will thrill readers lucky enough to own it for a number of years to come. The 2015 was fermented in cement and then spent 14 months in oak. It is rich, sumptuous and simply irresistible.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGFeaturing concentrated flavors of blackberry, black currant, earth and leafy underbrush, this red is wrapped in a shroud of stiff tannins that upsets the balance a little. Nevertheless, this will come into its own with decanting, a little aging in bottle or paired with grilled steak or lamb. Delivers excellent intensity, energy and length. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2029. 925 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThis is a big and self-assured red with lots of charcoal, vanilla, dried blackberries, barbecued meat and resin. Full-bodied and very chewy indeed with a ton of dark fruit and raw power. A delicate line of acidity pulls the brakes on. Drink in 2027!James Suckling | 95 JSTruffle, leather, crushed violet, mature blueberry and molten chocolate aromas meld together on this full-bodied red. A savory, earthy blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, the smooth palate offers mature blueberry, blackberry and clove aromas punctuated with hints of game. Velvety tannins provide polished support. Drink through 2025.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEShowing penetrating black fruit with lots of density and richness, the 2015 d'Alceo revealed a distant hint of rubber or animal that could be a point of concern if it were to worsen with time. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, and the fruit in this warm vintage is loosely knit and thick in fiber (ending with a 14.5% alcohol content that does leave its mark). The wine definitely needs more time to flesh out and integrate with bottle aging, but because of that slight flaw on the bouquet, I don't feel confident in suggesting the same extended drinking window that I have assigned to previous vintages. The jury is out on this one.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP