Wines with Age

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The Biondi-Santi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is initially a reticent wine and one that does not immediately subscribe to the overstated abundance and exuberance of the vintage. Give it time. I wrote this review after several tastings over several days so I could ensure a more accurate account of the wine’s elegant reveal. Contemplative and exceedingly nuanced in personality, with wild berry, underbrush, ferrous earth and candied orange peel, this has everything to look forward to in terms of its future evolution in the bottle. It displays a pretty ruby color that borders on garnet and polished copper. A silky, mid-weight palate is accented by beautifully managed and silky tannins (this aspect of the mouthfeel is extraordinary), bright freshness and long-lasting fruit momentum. The alcohol is a bit more powerful in this release (at 14.5%), but the effect is supple and smooth nonetheless. I tasted bottle number 256.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva pulls you close to the glass with a deep and seductive display of black raspberry preserves complemented by sweet sage, dried roses and pipe tobacco. With further coaxing, it gains in volume and lift, taking on hints of mint and camphor. This greets the palate with undeniable elegance, casting velvety waves of violet-tinged wild berries and sweet spices across a motivating core of juicy acidity, as a subtle coating of round tannins forms toward the close. While structured and incredibly long, energy remains high, as nuances of cherry pits offset by sour citrus and hints of cedar fade. It’s amazing to experience such energy and purity from a young Biondi Santi Riserva. As pretty as the Annata released last year was, I worried that the extended aging for the Riserva might rob the wine of some of its fruit; instead it is the complete opposite, as this contains the depth and complexity of the best wines of the vintage. I can’t wait to see how the 2015 matures over the next several decades.Vinous Media | 97 VMComplex yet pure, subtle and refined nose that gently evolves, with mossy red cherries, dried roses, chalk, tar and dried orange peel. There is a lift of clove and eucalyptus that makes it so distinctive. A powerful, medium-to full-bodied Brunello, but seamless and bright, with a fine, transparent mid-palate and restrained, mineral austerity. Understated complexity that will need time to bloom. Hold until 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2015 Riserva was born during the brief period between Franco Biondi Santi’s death and subsequent acquisition by luxury company EPI in 2016. Looking to make more accessible wines, Franco’s son Jacopo started picking on 21 September. By the estate’s historic standards, this is relatively late. The outcome is a generous and weighty expression that is less bracing than usual. It coats the mouth without being heavy and is hemmed in by firm, steely tannins. Sweet tobacco and bay leaf punctuate ripe red cherry and lead to a pleasant bitter twist on the finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 94 DEC

This is the best Campo del Drago I have ever had. It really shows the unique character of the elevated single vineyard of 1.5 hectares. Black cherries and flowers with hints of sandalwood and tree bark. Always pure and beautiful. Medium to full body. Ultra-fine tannins. Lightly salty character to the cherry and berry flavors. Extremely long and beautiful. Drink after 2021.James Suckling | 98 JSOnly made in the best vintages, this release of 7,000 bottles represents the top-end wine from Castiglion del Bosco. Fruit is drawn from the magnificent Campo del Drago, which is a vineyard on a high plateau located in one of the wildest and most beautiful corners of the appellation, with endless views spanning toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Campo del Drago is robust and shapely with blackberry, plum, toasted spice and tilled earth. Showing beautifully balanced results, this cru offers good length and power to the mouthfeel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is rich and juicy, displaying cherry, blackberry and iron flavors. The tannins are well-covered by the intensity and ripe, fleshy fruit until the finish, where they flex. Delivers terrific overall complexity, balance and expression. Best from 2024 through 2042. 500 cases made, 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAt first shy, a few swirls of the glass reveals pipe tobacco, sun baked earth, dark spice and menthol aromas. Enveloping and elegantly structured, it’s already almost accessible, offering baked plum, star anise and espresso alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2021 through 2027. Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOAt first shy, a few swirls of the glass reveal pipe tobacco, sunbaked earth, dark spice and menthol aromas. Enveloping and elegantly structured, it’s already almost accessible, offering baked plum, star anise and espresso alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2021 through 2027. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEBright, deep red with ruby tinges. Ripe, expressive yet delicate aromas of red fruits, menthol, flowers and wild herbs. Silky and round on entry, then slightly tougher and chewy in the middle, with some smoky oak showing at the back. Large-scaled but not yet creamy or filled in, finishing with some slightly tough oak tannins. Forget about this in your cellar for five years at least.Vinous Media | 92+ VMLush cassis on the nose with plenty of vanilla and cinnamon notes. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, firm tannins structure and great freshness with a core of ripe cherry fruit.Decanter | 91 DEC

An opulent Brunello, suggesting glacé cherries, strawberry ice-cream, peppermint tea and dried cloves. Full-bodied and very structured, muscling sturdy layers of tannins and rolling sheets of dark fruit into ironclad balls of flavor and texture. Long and fruit-driven on the finish. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThis wine reveals a beautifully rich and saturated appearance as it pours from the bottle. The Cerbaia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pretty presentation of Sangiovese-driven aromas with small berries, underbrush, moist potting soil and blue flowers. All of these aromas are perfectly tied to the variety. In the mouth, Cerbaia’s interpretation is lean and crisp with medium weight and a long, silky mouthfeel. It does feel thin on the mid-palate and tapers out to a medium or short finish. Fruit comes from a 4.5-hectare vineyard with Galestro-rich soils. Some 18,000 bottles were released in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPSomething ethereal about the strawberry, faint cherry aromas. Full bodied, spicy and peppery; ripe immaculate fruit on the palate with fine tannins creating a beautiful texture. Drinking Window 2022 - 2028.Decanter | 90 DEC Scorched earth, leather and camphor aromas mingle with a whiff of resin. On the austere tightly knit palate, grainy tannins accompany sour cherry, orange zest and tobacco. This will benefit with a few more years of cellar time. Drink after 2023.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

he Poggio di Sotto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows extra muscle definition, power and heady layers of rich fruit. This is all in line with the personality of the vintage, which was sunny and warm with golden sunlight throughout the summer season. This wine stands out for its fine-gained texture, which is smooth and polished. This Riserva offers aromas of cherry and blackberry and shows the depth that you should expect of a classic Riserva bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2015 Brunello Riserva is austere upon opening and requires air to fully express its potential this early. It is perfumed and translucent, with raspberry fruit, leather, black licorice, and rose petal. The palate is structured with drying tannins and mouthwatering acidity, noted by violets, dried herbs and crisp cherry fruit. The warmth of the 2015 vintage is present, though it remains refreshing, tension-driven, and persistent. The 2015 Riserva was aged in large Slavonian barrels for 52 months, and only 1300 bottles were produced. It is a wonderful and immensely pleasurable wine that will be a joy to revisit if the unlikely opportunity should ever arrive. 2021-2051Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has gained significantly in richness and volume since the last time I tasted it. Sage, black cherries and camphor give way to crushed stone, mineral tones and dusty rose. This soothes the palate with silky, delicate textures, as ripe mineral-tinged red berries and savory spices cascade across a core of brisk acidity. It’s a well-muscled dancer of a wine, tapering off incredibly long and graceful with hints of violet and rose over a coating of fine tannin. The 2015 currently shows the textbook ethereal weightlessness of a classic young Poggio di Sotto Brunello, but it will require some time to reveal all of its charms. That said, a slight score upgrade is in order here.Vinous Media | 96 VMThere’s a leafy underbrush element to this red, punctuating the cherry, strawberry and earth flavors. Compact for now, yet balanced, with a taut, reserved finish. Offers tension and suppleness, with plenty in reserve. Best from 2024 through 2047. 500 cases made, 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSExtremely perfumed with black-cherry, plum and red-cherry aromas that follow through to a full body with very fine, pretty tannins that follow through to a flavorful finish. Pretty balance and refinement. All about finesse. From organically grown grapes. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JS(Poggio di Sotto, Riserva, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, Red) Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva is a cask selection that typically corresponds with the estate’s oldest vines from its 20 hectares on the outskirts of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Truly a bit muddled and wild at first, Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva eventually comes into handsome focus with fragrant pepper, strawberry and tea. The palate takes on forest berry nuances along with an appealing twist of bitter roots and citrus peel, which make it all the more appetising. The tannins are graceful and accessible but I would still give this a couple of years to sort itself out. (Drink between 2023-2033)Decanter | 93 DECDelicate aromas recalling new leather, camphor, wild berry and dark spice slowly take shape in the glass. Racy and ethereal, the light-bodied palate features tart sour cherry, pomegranate and tobacco supported by taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

Earthy aromas of truffle, underbrush, rose and new leather shape the nose along with scents of dark-skinned berry and eucalyptus. Full bodied and youthfully tense, the savory palate delivers crushed black cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and tobacco set against tightly knit, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAfter skipping over the 2014 vintage, Salvioni comes out swinging with the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola. This is a classic Brunello, with one foot firmly planted in a sense of place and the other in varietal purity. You really can’t ask for more in a world-class Brunello such as this, hailing from a highly ranked vintage. Thanks to the sunny and warm growing season, the fiber and texture of this wine is a little looser and thicker compared to the cooler 2013 vintage. This beautiful wine, by contrast, delivers a knockout blow of saturated color loaded with dark cherry and blackberry aromas, all backed by spice, potting soil, crushed rocks, iron ore, ash, violets and blood orange. There is a subtle point of softness or sweetness on the finish that is a signature of this vintage. This champion of a release weighed in at 15,355 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPAn earthy display of mineral-encased red fruits and wild herbs lifts from the glass, as the bouquet of the 2015 Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino evolves into a dark mix of ripe black cherry and dusty spices with overarching floral notes. On the palate, soft, enveloping ripe red fruits open up in an unexpectedly approachable and alluring display, with hints of sweet spice and inner florals. With more time, the flavors turn more to the savory spectrum, adding hints of dried herbs, with cascading minerals, all pushed forward by brisk acidity. The finish is long, as its staining red fruits are offset by zesty spices and acids, revealing just a hint of fine tannin beneath it all. This is an especially forward and easy-to-like expression of Salvioni, which I’m tempted to start drinking early, yet there’s enough primary fruit and acids to carry it over the medium term in the cellar.Vinous Media | 96 VM(La Cerbaiola di Salvioni, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, Red) When I was tasting with Alessia Salvioni in 2017, she described 2015 as picture perfect - the biggest challenge was keeping the wild boar from eating the berries. She also noted that the unrelenting warmth (even at night) made for less perfumed wines. Now bottled, Salvioni’s 2015 is just as dense and concentrated as it was from cask. It also still possesses a pronounced, appetising iodine character along with an earthy savouriness. At first, finessed tannins seem like an afterthought but they sneak up and promise plenty of ageing potential. (Drink between 2022-2035)Decanter | 95 DECFresh, featuring flavors of ripe cherry, strawberry, Mediterranean herbs and loam. Finishes with firm tannins, but feels harmonious, in a youthful way. Salty, minerally elements linger. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 125 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A dense and layered red with plum, cherry and chocolate character. Full body. Dense and ripe tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Shows layers of fruit and rich tannins. New and exciting wine from here. Try after 2022.James Suckling | 97 JSLush and fruity, featuring plum, cherry, strawberry and iron aromas and flavors. Bright acidity and dense tannins form the structure as this plays out on the long finish. The excellent youthful balance shows promise for the future. Best from 2023 through 2040. 800 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe Poggio San Polo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Podernovi offers great density and textural richness. I would say that this wine is most characterized by the quality of the mouthfeel that wraps smoothly and thickly over the palate. Dark cherry, tobacco, earth, plum and dark fruit add intensity and flavorful substance. The wine’s full-bodied approach would match grilled meats or roasts.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPSan Polo’s 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Podernovi is dark and earthy, with notes of moist soil, savory herbs, and minerals that wafting up from the glass. Mineral-encased ripe red fruits, propelled by vibrant acids with sweet spices and a hint of youthful tannin develop with air. The finish is long and buzzing with zesty acids and spice, along with a coating of fine tannin that tugs at the cheek. There’s a great blending of earth and fruit that makes the Podernovi quite attractive, yet a few years in the cellar should yield an even more balanced wine.Vinous Media | 93 VMFirmly structured, this opens with aromas of underbrush, exotic spice and whiffs of eucalyptus oil. The firm palate evokes black-cherry extract, orange zest, licorice and tobacco set against assertive, close-grained tannins that leave a rather austere, drying finish. Give it time to fully unwind.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEDark morello cherries, hints of jammy wild berries. Deep spicy undertones, great structure, and finesse. Juicy on the palate; spicy and complex. Very intense and multi-layered. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 91 DEC