Wines with Age

wines

Delivers fabulous aromas of crushed red fruits, with leather, tar, tobacco and mint. Full-bodied, offering supersoft and silky tannins, as well as a beautiful polish. Open and luscious, with amazing richness of fruit and decadence at the same time.—’89/’99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. 44,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 1989 Gruaud Larose is a wine that I have tasted a dozen or so times since back in 2001, most recently in 2012. The bottle was poured against several Californian wines that might be unfair, however, I do feel that this vintage has maybe peaked several years ago. Here it was well defined on the nose as usual, with scents of undergrowth, sandalwood and a touch of sage. It certainly lacks the joie-de-vivre that I expect. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, nicely judged acidity and quite compact black fruit, though this is a little more staid than before, certainly lacking the flamboyance of the 1990 Gruaud (for example). It is a thoroughly decent Gruaud that just fails to engage the same way as previous examples. Tasted over dinner at Chez Bruce.Vinous Media | 90 VM

This wine continues to get better and better and is certainly one of the great successes in what is a profound vintage for Bordeaux. While the wine still tastes young, it is already complex, with so much sweet tannin and lavish fruit that it is impossible to resist, even though it probably will not hit its plateau of maturity for another 5-6 years. A stunning nose of licorice, earth, cedar, Provencal herbs, black currants, asphalt, and cherries soars from the glass. Full-bodied, opulent, with fabulous concentration, a seamless texture, and remarkable stuffing and power, this low-acid, thick, almost viscous wine can be drunk now or cellared for at least another two decades. For trivia buffs, this was the wine President Chirac served former President Clinton when he hosted Clinton in Paris at the famous Parisian bistro L’Ami Louis in June, 1999. I know, because several days later President Chirac gave me the Legion of Honor. In his speech, he acknowledged the fact that President Clinton only wanted to “drink a wine rated highly by Robert Parker.” Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 9/02.Robert Parker | 96 RPAn estate known for its long ageing, and here it has softened at 31 years old, but still offering silky tannins and autumnal fruits with cedar smoked oak, marzipan, dried leather and gentle truffled spice. A thoroughly enjoyable Gruaud Larose showcasing old-school St-Julien balance. Clear crushed mint leaf on the finish, utterly moreish. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend; 33% new oak. (Drink between 2021-2035)Decanter | 94 DECBright medium red with a reddish-amber rim. Pungent notes of cinnamon, quinine and rosemary complicate red cherry on the enticing, aromatic nose. Juicy and fresh on the palate, showing good density to the red fruit, peppery plum and herb flavors. Offers very good texture and chewy but noble tannins, with precise mineral-tinged fruit flavors lingering nicely on the peppery, flinty finish. A real step up in concentration from the 1989, and unlike that vintage this will still improve with further bottle age, though it’s drinking well now. Very well done.Vinous Media | 92 VM

(64% cabernet sauvignon, 26% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot; IPT 74; 13% alcohol): Dark ruby. Deep, brooding nose hints at dark plum, blackcurrant, coffee and lavender accented by cinnamon and nutmeg. Enters bright and fresh, then turns richer in the middle, with accessible plum, herb and coffee flavors persisting nicely on the peppery finish, which features chewy tannins. This is at once more herbal and more forward than the 1995. It’s also better than I remember it, and although still quite young it offers plenty of appeal. The wine’s harmonious acidity makes it seem lighter-bodied than it is. About 40% of the malolactic fermentation was carried out in barriques, compared to a normal one-third. Note that the label states 12.5% alcohol, but the data given to me by the estate shows 13% alcohol.Vinous Media | 91+ VMViolet, blackberry and flowers on the nose. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a medium finish. Ready.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

What a perfumed, elegant, structured wine, with all the elements of fruit, wood, tannins just in the right place. It shows great tannins, powerful black and red berry fruits, denseness, and a classic, fresh aftertaste.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA dense and decadent wine with chocolate, currant and licorice aromas and flavors. Medium to full body, firm tannins and a fresh finish. A beautiful wine now. It shows the finesse and class of an aged Bordeaux.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2001 Gruaud Larose has a much more vivacious bouquet than the millennial Gruaud, featuring vibrant black cherry and raspberry fruit, pressed iris, light peaty scents and a touch of tobacco that emerges with time. There is more delineation here compared to the 2000. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and touches of soy borrowed from the previous vintage, yet there is more depth and delineation toward the finish.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis shows a rich and dense nose of blackberry, coffee and smoke. Full-bodied, with soft and round tannins and a long, smoky finish. Very fresh and velvety. GL is really doing excellent things these days, even in less-than-easy vintages. Best after 2008. 2,455 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSSurprisingly accessible as well as supple, this 2001 St.-Julien reveals a deep plum/purple color along with a rich bouquet of smoke, roasted vegetables, black currants, plums, licorice, and Asian spices. Velvety-textured and medium-bodied, with loads of fruit, and a plump, expansive, plush texture, this is an atypically forward Gruaud Larose to drink now and over the next 12-14 years.Robert Parker | 90 RP

Aromas of strawberries and cherries follow through to a full body, silky tannins and a tangy finish. Fresh and clean. Linear and pretty. Purity of fruit is impressive. Drink in 2020.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2014 Gruaud Larose marks the first step in the right direction, with much more freshness on the nose than previous vintages: blackberry, melted tar and cedar. There is simply a greater sense of purpose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, crisp and sculpted, less rustic than before. I suspect this has much more longevity than the 2011 or 2012, with more grip and backbone evident on the finish. Very fine. Tasted at the Gruaud Larose vertical at the château in February 2023 and blind at the Southwold tasting in February 2024.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe wine is all about fruit and balanced tannins. It is juicy, so drinkable now, although with enough structure to promise good aging. Perfumed black-currant fruits show strongly. The wine shows how this chateau continues to perform reliably. Drink from 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEFragrant and floral fruit at the start, less weighty than in the past, with fine sweetness on the mid-palate. Much more complexity to come.Decanter | 91 DECThe 2014 Gruaud Larose has a light and airy bouquet at first, one that gathers depth with aeration. It is a little conservative at the moment, dusky black fruit mixed with sage and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy, slightly angular tannin. It is certainly fresh in the mouth, although it feels a tad pinched towards the finish; therefore, afford this 4-5 years in bottle to develop more substance and ambition.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPShows a perfumy hint, with black tea and singed allspice notes out front, followed by a core of steeped plum and blackberry fruit. Light anise and apple wood details fill in on the finish. Supple yet well-packed. Best from 2020 through 2030. 12,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WSWhile I wasn’t able to taste the 2015, the 2014 Graud Larose is an attractive, classically styled Saint-Julien that has ripe currant fruits as well as lots of herbal/tobacco undertones, cedary spice, and earthy aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied, concentrated, and texture, with a chewy, rustic, endearing style. I like its balance and this old-school beauty will keep for at least 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JDMedium to deep garnet in color, the 2014 Gruaud Larose features delicate notes of crushed rocks and forest floor over a core of blackcurrant preserves and Christmas cake with a touch of cigar box. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly styled with a lively backbone and fine-grained tannins, finishing on a lingering minerally note.The Wine Independent | 90 TWI

A prototypical St.-Julien with a great balance of cassis and brambles with crisp acidity and rather elegant, dry tannins. I love the long, clean finish of this wine. You could drink this now, but should be better from 2019. The second wine of Château Graud-Larose.James Suckling | 93 JSHigh 72% Cabernet gives this second wine firm, direct fruit with the natural rich smoothness seen in the grand vin. More elegant and precise than in the past. Drinking Window 2019 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC