100-Point Wines

wines

Built for the long haul, the 2018 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a majestic, noble white that could only come from this incredible, south-facing hillside in Hermitage. Revealing a light gold hue as well as notes of quince, honeyed minerality, toasted spices, orange marmalade, and spring flowers, this deep, rich, and full-bodied white has absorbed just about every trace of its oak élevage and has a concentrated, rich, yet focused and lengthy style. This cuvée had a more oaky, opulent style in the past, but today it comes across as a much more pure, elegant wine while not giving an inch with regard to density, texture, and concentration. As with just about every top Hermitage Blanc today, this offers plenty of immediate pleasure with its pure, fresh, mineral-laced style. Don’t discount how much pleasure these wines can offer in their youth and always ignore the "always too young" crowd. This 2018 is going to evolve gracefully and drink brilliantly for 5-7 years, then (maybe) go into a closed, almost oxidative stage, only to emerge after 5-7 years and evolve for decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDFull-bodied and rounded, with firm acidity and salinity. The oak has taken over at this early stage and will always be quite dominant, however the fruit is deep and should harmonise with the wood in time. Very long and ending with butterscotch and quince, the élevage will always be a strong feature of the wine, but the depth is there for long ageing. For release in 2022. 100% new oak barriques. Drinking Window 2024 - 2038.Decanter | 96 DECThe last time I saw the 2018 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc, it came across as opulent and fruit-forward. Now that it’s in bottle (and scheduled to be released in February 2022), it’s less tropical, showing more restraint and (perhaps) greater aging potential. Hints of toasted grain, lime custard and scorched lemon zest appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is rich, delivering notes of toasted marshmallow and a heavily textured, slightly coarse texture, but finishes long.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Cherry, flower and cedar aromas follow through to a full body with lots of pure and juicy fruit character. Creamy and savory with a crushed bean and cherry aftertaste. Defining today’s Brunello with purity and perfection of fruit. Making the most of an outstanding vintage. A selection from a seven-hectare parcel of 50-year-old vines. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 100 JSWow, this wine steals the show. A new addition to the Casanova di Neri portfolio now in its second year, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri pays tribute to Giacomo Neri’s father and represents a stylistic shift to the most elegant side of Montalcino. The wine reveals a very nuanced bouquet with toasted cherry pit, Luxardo syrup and balsam herb. There is dark slate and stony mineral that dovetail into a very clean and pretty earthiness. The tannins are slightly sweeter compared to other wines from this vintage, and there are fragrant tones of heritage rose and lilac. The ratio between tannin and fruit is excellent, and I can see this wine aging long into the future. Production is 9,600 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

The drop-dead gorgeous Barbaresco 2019 Asili Riserva from the Produttori del Barbaresco stuns with its extreme finesse and heady scents of wild rose, red berry, camphor, leather and brown spice. Full-bodied and vibrant, the elegant, linear palate delivers red cherry, blood orange, star anise and ground clove alongside youthfully tight but extremely refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and energized, lending great tension. It’s a superb expression of this celebrated site and the fantastic vintage. An absolute stunner. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a very pretty, silky wine that shows all the signatures of this site in its refined, mid-weight personality. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, cedar, mint and tobacco all grace this classy Barbaresco. The 2019 is classic Asili, with firm tannins from the year.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Boasting great depth and extreme elegance, the drop-dead gorgeous Ciacci Piccolomini Pianrosso delivers crushed raspberry, succulent Morello cherry, star anise and crushed mint flavors while aromas of eucalyptus, wild rose, new leather and forest floor continuously lift out of the glass. It’s a smooth, stunning wine, with taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity that lend great aging potential and energy. Absolutely stunning. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOThe Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso opens to a wide and all-encompassing bouquet with dried cherry or cherry pie with the crust, plum tart and rose potpourri. There are evident oak tones, but they fold into underbrush, grilled herb and the generous texture of this wine. Likewise, the 15% alcohol content also neatly disappears into the wine’s fleshy fruit consistency. For sure, this is a wine that needs more bottle evolution in order to hone in on the silkiness and pretty freshness of such an important Sangiovese. Exactly 43,054 bottles were made along with about 1,000 larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPAged in Slavonian oak for 36 months, Pianrosso is a selection from the self-titled vineyard: 11 hectares in the lower southeast of Montalcino. The grapes were harvested between 11 September and 4 October 2019, suggesting a classic vintage. It shines for its Earl Grey tea aroma combined with dark cherry, cinnamon, liquorice, and a floral bouquet. The fruit character is very dark and precise; gorgeous in this vintage. Full bodied, thick and velvety with firm, long yet integrated acidity, it tapers on the finish but this should be considered a signifier of its elegance.Decanter | 97 DECSweet berries and cherries on the nose, together with fresh violet and lilac notes. Full body with juicy tannins and a flavorful finish that opens on the palate. Lots of ripe cherry flavor. Tar, too. A rich and layered Pianrosso. One of the bigger, riper wines of the vintage, but still holds true. Try in 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis relatively warm, early-ripening terroir has yielded a wine that’s full-bodied yet with an almost custard-like silky texture. Toasted grain, lemon custard, crushed stone, pear and melon notes mingle easily on the nose of Chapoutier’s 2020 Ermitage le Méal Blanc. The long, zesty finish is marked by a slight hint of bitterness that seems to come into this parcellaire from time to time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPAlmond, quince and a touch of rhubarb at this early stage; you sense the ripeness, but it’s not exotically fruity in 2020. The silkiness and glycerol on the palate are quite present, this sample shows plentiful oak, lending matchstick and cashew to the finish. An elegant vintage of Le Méal. Well-balanced, far from massive, not as powerful or concentrated as the past few vintages, this will drink well young and age into the medium term. Not a hugely-long lived Méal I suspect, but a delightful one nonetheless. There is generous alcohol, but it’s not unbalanced. (Drink between 2023-2040)Decanter | 96 DEC

I’ve never before smelled a wine like this. The captivating aromas are amazing, with lavender, sage, dried potpourri, blackberries, tar, pepper and black licorice. Full-bodied with super tannins that fan out and caress the palate. It’s ethereal and endless. A pure syrah from the owners of Clos Apalta, from unique mountain vineyards. Just over 6,000 bottles made. Try to give this four or five years of bottle age. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 100 JS

Take your time to appreciate this beauty. This is different from the richer and more opulent 2020, instead, it is more mineral, with a rather thick shield of minerality that makes it feel ethereal yet protective. Finely ground white pepper, violets, herbs and a hint of bacon and slate to the blue and red berries. Medium to full body on the palate with melted tannins and a long, bracing finish. Such energy, flair and harmony here. Can’t expect more. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 100 JSA Gran Vinya Classificada, L’Ermita is one of Spain’s most renowned wines and it’s easy to see why. This is glorious, starting with a fabulously decadent nose of wild plums and minerals. The palate is superbly long and textured, with a firm line of redcurrant freshness and a very long, sapid, mineral finish. It’s hard to fault and will age beautifully. Matured for 12 months in foudres.Decanter | 99 DEC